Our Sister Republic. A gala trip through tropical Mexico in 1869, 70 ... With numerous engravings

Front matter

THE AUTHOR. OUR SISTER REPUBLIC: A GALA TRIP THROUGH TROPICAL MEXICO IN 18G9-70. ADArENTURE AND SIGHT-SEEING IN THE LAND OF THE AZTECS, AVITH PICTURESQUE DESCRIPTIONS OF THE COUNTRY AND THE PEOPLE, AND REMINISCENCES OF THE EMPIRE AND ITS DOWNFALL. BY COL. ALBERT S. EVMS. WITTf* IVTJIVIIEIIOILTS ENGRAVINGS. PUBLISHES 37 SUBSCBIPTIOH 0NL7. HAKTFORD, CONN.: COLUMBIAN BOOK COMPANY. W. E. BLISS, TOLEDO, OHIO. A. L. BANCROFT & COMPANY, San Francisco, Cal. 1870. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1870, by ALBERT S. EVANS, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at 'Washington. Entered also at Stationer's Hall, London, England. TO ffiEK Who through all, my wanderings has ever^ been present in my mind, and whose love has BEEN THE pUIDING StAR^ OF MY LIFE, ftp fiife, this Volume is Dedicated, in testimony of Unchanging Affection.

INTRODUCTORY LETTER FROM HONORABLE WILLIAM II. SEWARD. Aubukn, August 6th, 1870. Mt Dear Colonel Evans : — Your book on Mexico contains the observations which you made while a member of the party with which I traveled through that magnificent and interesting Country. Received and entertained there as a guest of the Republic, I have prac ticed in regard to Mexico, since my return to the United States, the same delicacy Avhich I expect a friend whom I have been entertaining to practice when he has left my house. For this reason I cannot sanction either your observations or your deductions. I am at liberty, however, to say that your details of our travels are full and accurate ; your account of the resources and capacities of the country is not exaggerated ; your pictures of Mexican society will be thought by the public too highly colored : I think that your error lies on the other side.

The Statesmen of the country deserA'e all the praise you have bestowed upon them. Your style is attractive, the book is spirited, and I think it calculated to be useful. Sincerely, your friend and well-wisher, WILLIAM H. SEWARD. Colonel Albert S. Evans, San Francisco, Cal. PREFATORY. This work embodies the observations of the Author on Mexico and her people, made while traveling as one of the party of the Hon. Wm. H. Seward, in 1869-70. Through the kind partiality of Mr. Seward, and the liberality of the Government and Citizens of Mexico, the Author undoubtedly enjoyed greater facilities for seeing the country and its inhabitants, than have been accorded to any other traveler for many years. I have endeavored to give an impartial description of what I saw and heard in that land of wonder and romance, avoiding neither the lights nor the shadows of the picture.

Chapter I

Page, Good-Bye to San Francisco — Chinese Sailors — Voyage down the Coast — A7erdureless Mountains — Sunday Service at Sea — Wreck of the Golden City — Signal Rockets — The Montana — Meeting of Steamers at Night — Cape St. Lucas — Within the Tropics — A Desolate Region — Castor-Oil AVhales — A Tropical Sunset at Sea — El Mar de Cortez — Arrival at Manzanillo — The Guest of Mexico — AV ashed up by the Sea — Sights and Scenes on Shore — Battle of Sharks and Alligators — Visitors from Colima — Gov. Cueva — Productions of Manzanillo — Tropical Fruits — Embarkation and Passage of the Flotilla up the Laguna de Cayutlan — A Charmed Circle — The AVealth of the Tropics— Wild-Flowers, Parrots and Alligators — Our Indian Rowers — Scene on the Beach — Dejected Mules — Crossing the Rio de Santa Maria — Indian Population — Battle- Ground of San Bartolo — The great Hacienda of La Calera — Life in the Tropics — Senor Huarte — Rural Mass and Sunday Scenes — Pigeon-English — Departure from La Calera — Our Coach and Six — The Custom- House Guard — Water Bearers of Mexico — Colima the Beautiful, - - 49

Chapter II

Colima — Night Entrance to the Ancient City — The Music of Cortez — Is it a Revolution ? — In Grenada or Damascus — View from the Balcony — The \Talley of Colima — Picturesque Scenes on the Streets — The Plaza and Markets — The Gardens of the Tropics — Their Flowers and Fruits — The People and Resources of Colima — Productions of the Country — The Cocoa-nut — Agua de Cocoa — Coffee and Chocolate — Linoloe — Honors to Mr. Seward — Invitation to the Palace — A Brilliant and Beautiful Scene — The Ball and Banquet — Eloquent Address of Gov. Cueva — Mr. Seward's first Speech in Mexico — A Grand Fandango — The Cotton Factories and the Operatives — Ravages of AA'ar — A7isit to the Public Schools — The State-Prison and Prisoners— Curious Christening Ceremonies — The Guard of Jalisco and their Commander, 69

Chapter III

Farewell to Colima — Painful Scene at the TJ. S. Consulate — Departure of the Grand Cavalcade — The Country and the People — The Barranca CONTENTS. 116 Country — Mr. Seward's Palanquin — Magnificent Scenery — Dinner with Gov. Vega at Tornila— The great Volcano of Colima — The Foot-Hills of the Sierra Madre— Tortilla Makers— Our Escort— The Guard of Jalisco on the Marcli — Hacienda de San Marcos — Wild Night Scene — The Cav alcade by Torch Light — Great Barranca de Beltran — Fate of Gen. Ar teaga — Historic Ground — Passage of the last of the Barrancas — Aten quiqui — An Indian Runner — Commerce of the Road — Crossing the Sier ra Madre — Zapotlan — Soap-Factories — "Going the whole Hog" — A Mexican Wedding Party — Floral Decorations — Anecdote of Rojas — A Monopoly of Crime — How Local Revolutions are Managed — Victims of the Pronunciamentos, ....-.--. - 94

Chapter I A'

Under a Cloud — Saints, Festivities and Bull-Fights — AVayside Crosses — A Land of Brigands, Plagiaros and Blood — Wholesale Shooting of Outlaws — A Magnificent Valley — Our Welcome at Seyula — Visit to the Public Schools — Interesting School Exhibition — Sunday Evening Ball — Mexican Beauties — The Birds of the Tropics — Indian Villages — Reception at Zacoalco — Battle Field of La Coronea — Defeat of the Imperialists — General Martinez — A terrible Pun — A Mexican Fonda and Mexican Cooking — Great Sugar Hacienda del Plan — Strange Sights on the Road — Kneeling Men and Women — The Century Plant — Tequila and its Effects — A Swell-Head — First View of Guadalajara — Reception and Entrance into the City — Guadalajara by Moonlight — The Old, Old Song, -

CHAPTER V

. Churches of Guadalajara — A Retreat from the World — The Music of Bells — The Great Cathedral — A Magnificent Altar — Paintings and Statuary — Strange Superstitions — Well-preserved Bishops — Great Hospital of San Miguel de Belan — Sisters of Charity — The Hospicio of Guadalajara and its Sixteen Hundred Inmates — The Chapel of the Hospicio — Public Schools of Jalisco — Girl's and Boy's High School — Library of Thirty Thousand old Books — School of Useful Arts — Musical Talent — Primary Schools — Beautiful Embroidery — The great Cemeterio de Bethlem — The Paseo de San Pedro — " A Pleasant Place to Visit " — Insecurity of Life and Property — A strange State of Society — Indian Embroiderers—Indian Statuary Makers of Tonila — Cotton Factories— The Theatre and Opera House — Sunday Bull-Fight — The Programme The Amphitheatre — A Quiet Bull and his Fate — A Cowardly Bull — Enraged Audience — A Game-fellow — Lively Times — The Bull-Riders — The Bones of the Dead Past — Farewell Banquet to Mr. Seward — Eloquent Addreses — The Belles of Guadalajara, .-..-.. CONTENTS. 220

CHAPTER VI.

Departure from Guadalajara — Killing Bandits — Ancient Bridge — Falls of the Rio Grande — Zapotlanejo — Results of Revolutions and Invasions — The Bridge of Calderon, where Hidalgo was Defeated — How the Indian Patriots Fought — Scene of one of Rojas' Butcheries — The Terror of Jalisco — Buying out an Establishment — The Grateful Merchant — Tepotitlan — Jalos — Great Disproportion of the Sexes — Venta de Los Pagarros and how they Kill Robbers There — Great Central Plateau of Mexico — St John of the Lakes — Its great Church, and A\That I Saw in It — A Scene of Bewildering Beauty — Lagos and Its Churches — A AVell-preserved Roman, and My Conclusions — Scenes in the Market Place — Pig-headed Mules — Arrival at Leon — The City and the People — Discounting a Miracle — The Feast of All-Saints — Pockets Picked and Charity Misconstrued — Narrow Escape from Bandits — " 'Tis Distance Lends Enchantment " — The Mines of La Luz — A Touching and Characteristic Scene—The Foot-Hills of Guanajuato, 180

CHAPTER VII.

Guanajuato — First View of the Triple City — Marfil — The Reservoirs — Senor Rocha and His AVorks — La Presa — El BufFa — The Silver District of Guanajuato — Statistics of the State — Improvements — Schools and Colleges — Gov. Antillon — The Mint and What is Done There — Castle of Grenaditas and its History — The Fate of Hidalgo — Street Peddlers and Their AVares — How the Poor People Live — Curious Scenes at the Markets — Heavy Stealings — Severe on the Clergy — College Examination — Beneficiating Silver Ores — The Great Mine of San Jose de Valenciano which has Produced Eight Hundred Million Dollars — Ruin and Desolation — A Deserted Minine. Town — Immense Subterranean W'orks — The Great Shaft — A Game Padre — Fearful Murder — The Gentlemen of the Road — Generous Brigands — A Foreign Innovation — Mine of the Serrano — In the Tunnel — Pyrotechnical Display of Indescribable Grandeur — The Lower Depths — Sights Under Ground — How People Live and Die There — A Speechless Auctioneer, 211

CHAPTER VIII.

Departure from Guanajuato — A Sand-River — A Beautiful and Fertile Country — Feudal Castles in the Nineteenth Century — Salamanca — The Late General Doblado — The Game of the Country — Celaya — Interesting Relics — A Mexican Woolen Factory — Artesian Well — Fountains — Salvatierra — A Chance for Railway Builders — Hacienda of Fifty Thousand Acres — A Poverty Stricken Population in the Richest Land on Earth — Abundance of Old Churches — Great Need of a Continental Railway — A Better Time Coming — Approach to the Historic City of Queretaro,, CONTENTS. 238

CHAPTER IX.

Arrival at Queretaro— All Quiet— How the Aqueduct was Built— The "Hercules" Cotton Factory and its Surroundings— First Class Operatives— The Procession of the Host— The Englishman's Mistake— That same old Mule Story— Welcome to Mr. Seward— Scene of the Downfall of the Empire of Mexico—Popular Opinion of Maximilian and Carlotta— The Siege of Queretaro— Position of the Contending Armies- Desperation of Maximilian's Situation— His Offer to Abandon His Army to Secure His Own Personal Safety— An Immediate Assault at all Points ordered by Escobedo — Was Lopez a Traitor ? — Last Scene in the Conflict—How Maximilian Was Taken— His Hopes for Pardon— Conversation between Maximilian and Miramon — The Scene at the Cerro De Las Campanas — Execution of Maximilian, Miramon and Mejia — Was It Right, or Was It Not ?— Visit to the last Scene in the Tragedy of the Empire of Mexico— All that Is Left of the Empire, -

CHAPTER X.

From Queretaro to Mexico — A Magnificent Agricultural Country — San Juan del Rio — Old Lava Fields — The Land of the Maguey — The Century Plant and what it Produces — Arroyo Zarco — The Rural Guard — Tepeji Del Rio — First View of the Valley of Mexico — The Blind Man and His Daughter — Lake Zupango — Pulque and the Pulqueries — Pig-Skins and How Procured — A Startling Resemblance — Reminiscence of White Pine — The Story of Downton and Gerry — A Family Resemblance — Sad Results of Business Reverses — The Valley of Mexico — Reception of Mr. Seward by the Cabinet of the President — Welcome to the Capital as the Nation's Guest by the Citizen President, Benito Juarez — In the City of Montezuma, - - 251

CHAPTER XI.

Mexico and Its Surrounoings — Insecurity of the Roads — Excursion to La Canada. — Visit to Tacubaya — The House of Gen. Urega, and AVho I Found There— The American Cemetery — A Startling Inscription — The Gate of the Beam— The Grand Canal and Floating Gardens of Mexico Scene of Guatamozin's Defeat — Church and Tree of the Noche Triste The San Cosme Aqueduct— An Aztec Idol— How Police Matters are • Managed — A Polite Thief— Popocatapetl and the Woman in White The Survey by General Ochoa— Interior of the Crater — How Cortez Procured Powder — Dinner with Matias Romero — Dinner with the Family of President Juarez at Chapultepec — The Palace and Its Surroundings Souvenirs of Maximilian — Poor Carlotta — The Feast of Belshazzar CONTENTS. 15 View from the Verandah of Chapultepec — Molina del Rey, Contreras and Churubusco — The Alameda of Mexico, .... . 274

CHAPTER XII.

Revelings in the Halls of the Montezumas— Dinner at the House of Senor Lerdo — Toasts in Honor of President Grant — Address by Mr. Seward — Grand Banquet at the Palacio Nacional — AVhat AA'as Said and Done There — An Era of Good Feeling — Speech by President Juarez — Speech by U. S. Minister Nelson — Mr. Lerdo's Response — Mr. Seward's Address — Altamerano the Indian Orator and His Eloquence — The Great Speech of the Occasion — Other Speeches and Toasts — Improvisional Poetry, 294

CHAPTER XIII.

Excursion up the Grand Canal — A Small Water Party — A Jolly Time All Around — Picnic at an Indian Village — An Exciting Scene on the Return Trip — Free Baths and no End of Fun — Circus in an Old Convent — Opera and Theatre — Grand Closing Ball and Banquet — The Most Brilliant Scene Witnessed in America — Toasts and Speeches — The Darien Ship-Canal — Don Benito Juarez — His Personal Appearance and Characteristics — Curious Tradition and Coincidences — View of the Valley from Tacubaya, 308

CHAPTER XIV.

Amid the Ruins of Empires — Behind the Scenes after the Play — Plunder from the Palace of Chapultepec — The " Theatrical Effects " Imported by Maximilian — His Carriages, Pictures, Plate, and Household Wardrobe — The Farce He Played in — Court Costumes and Imperial Decorations — His Gold and Silver Plate — His State Carriage and Billiard Tables — Maximilian's Court and Empire — His Fatal Mistake — The Archives of Mexico — Maximilian's Arrival in Mexico — The Mask Removed — The Black Flag Decree — The Apologists of Maximilian — The Records of the Empire and What They Prove — The Victims of the Black Flag Decree — Letters written by Generals Arteaga and Salazar just before Their Execution — Remonstrance of the Belgians — Aztec Relics — The Great Sacrifical Stone, etc. — A City Under a City — American Origin of the Aztecs — The House of Hernando Cortez — National Monte de Piedad of Mexico — The Model Pawnbroker's Shop of the World — Five Millions Dollars Worth of Jewels and Plate in one Room — The Sword of General Valencia and Jewels of Isabella the Catholic, on Pawn — A Commentary on Human Pride and Ambition, CONTENTS 364 391 405

CHAPTER XV.

Religion and the Arts — Our Lady of Guadaloupe — How the Virgin Appeared as an Indian AAToman to Juan Diego — Story of the Apparition and the Erection of the Church and Chapel — Our Lady of the Remedios — The Shrine of Guadaloupe, and the great Annual Pilgrimage to it — A Visit to the Church — Scenes Outside and Inside — Sale of Books and Charms— The old Bell-Makers— The Offering of a Spanish Rover— The Miraculous Fountain — Boring for Oil — A Religious Picnic — Home of the Inquisition and Plaza de San Domingo — The Protestant Missions in Mexico — Protestantism — Statement of Rev. H. Chauncey Riley and His Appeal for Funds in Aid of the Work — The National School of Art and Design — Pictures Old and New — The Art Galleries — Department of Coins and Medals — The College of Mines — Rare Collection of Minerals,

CHAPTER XVI.

Social Condition and Customs — The Women of Mexico — Their Character and Social Condition — Curious Phases of Social Life — The Children of Mexico — Trade of the City — The Beggars — The Ancient Customs and Superstitions of Southern Europe — The Evil Eye — Hospitable Treatment of Guests — Courtesy Misconstrued — The Story of Uncle Freddy, alias AVashington the Second — Norton the First — The Chinese Princess — How Uncle Freddy Became the Guest of Mexico — Foreigners in Mexico — Sharp Business Transactions — Devotion of the Women and Their Sympathy for the Unfortunate — How Mr. Fitch was Swindled — Honoring the Uniform — Mr. Seward's Fossil Elephant and what became of it — Politeness of the Servants — Census Taking in Mexico,

CHAPTER XVII.

The Soldiers of Mexico — The Invalid Corps — The Press — Literary and Musical Attainments — A Persevering Printer — Immigration — Public Improvements — The Great Need of Mexico — The Political Situation — Its Hopeful and its Discouraging Aspects — Moral Responsibility of the United States — Advocates of Annexation — A Plea for Mexico,

CHAPTER XVIII.

Departure from the Capital— By Rail to Puebla — The Pulque Country — The Pyramids of Tehuacan — Battle Field of Otumba — The Grandest Mountains of the Continent — Orizaba, Popocatapetl, La Mu^er En Blanco and the Malinchi — The City of Puebla by Daylight and Moonlight — War's Desolation — Siege and Capture of Puebla — Cinco De CONTENTS. 17 Mayo — The Pronunciametto of the Sierra — Excursion to the Ancient City of Tlaxcala— The Castles of the Four great Chiefs of the Tlaxcalan Republic— The Banner of Cortez and Ancient Archives— The Secret of the Gold Placers— The Virgin of Tlaxcala— The Oldest Church on the Continents — The Miracle of Tlaxcala— Carrying Dead-Heads— An Excursion to Cholula — Novel and Enthusiastic Reception— The Music of Other Days — Mr. Seward 's Address to the Cholulans — Time's Revenges — Strange Commingling of the Past and Present — The Great Pyramid—A New Theory Concerning It— The Cathedral of Puebla— Its AVonderful AVealth and Beauty — Other Objects of Interest — Buried Treasure — An Imposition — Guatamozin's Last AA'ill — Protestantism in Puebla, 440

CHAPTER XIX.

From Puebla to Orizaba — Last Diligence Ride in Mexico — Amazoc and Its Iron-AVorkers— Eccentricities of the People — Bargaining for Spurs — A Mexican Bridge-Builder — An Aztec Tower and Sun-Dial — Daring Feat of a Guerrilla — The Home of the Palm and the Maguey — A Colored Gentleman in Mexico — Buying Cigars — The Rural Guard — A Change of Scene — Las Curnbres — AVonderful Scenery — Descent into the Tierra Caliente — Orizaba, 452

CHAPTER XX.

A City with a Past and Future but No Present — Grass-Grown Streets — The Indian Packers and How They Take in Ballast — Battle-Scarred Churches — Outrages Committed by Maximilian's Troops — The French Colonel — A AVoman's Revenge — Curious Christmas Festivities — Playing the Devil — A Whole Community Gambling — Stoicism of the Losers — The Falls of the Rincon Grande — A Tropical Paradise — Hacienda de San Antonio and How They Make Sugar — Coffee Plantations — Resources of Mexico — The Great Conducta — Its Encampment at Orizaba and March to Vera Cruz — How Silver is Carried and Handled in Mexico — The Indian Specie-Counters at Vera Cruz — Reminiscence of the Mexican War, - 473

CHAPTER XXI.

Resting at Orizaba. — Ascent of the Sierra Borregas — Visit to an Indian Vil. lage — Departure for Vera Cruz — Magnificent Scenery of the Chiquihuite Pass — The Great Railway Bridge — Reception at Vera Cruz — The Specialities of the City — Souvenirs of Past Conflicts — The Zapilotes — A Lively Hotel — Lotteries — The Chain-Gang — A Private Quarrel— Curious CONTENTS. Statistics — An Unpopular Institution — Steamer Arrival — A Mixed Cargo — Sunday Amusements in Vera Cruz — Bear and For Bear — How the California Bear Sampson Entertained the Mexican Bull — Amateur Bull- Fighting — The Amateur's Story of His Experiences — The Castle of San Juan de Ulloa — What it was and AAThat it is — A Great AVorkin Ruins — The Dungeons and Political Prisoners — The Fate of General Castillo — " AVho Enters Here Leaves Hope Behind — Mementoes of the Last French Invasion — The Perplexities of the Author — The Ranchero and His Pig —The Horse and the Zapilotes— Which Whipped ? .... 508

CHAPTER XXII.

Mr. Seward's Farewell Letters to the Members of the Juarez Government and Others — Voyage from Vera Cruz to Yucatan — Sisal — Its People, Trade and Specialities — The Highest-Roofed Theatre on Earth — Visitors from Merida — Letter from the Governor of Yucatan — Our Last View of Mexico — Adios ! HON. WILLIAM H. SEWARD TRAVELING IN MEXICO. A GALA TRIP THROUGH MEXICO.

CHAPTER I. FEOM SAN FRANCISCO TO COLIMA.

/^J_LORIOUSLY beautiful was that bright morning of the 30th day of September, 1869, AA-hen I reluctantly left the darkened chamber in which lay the mortal remains of a braA^e man, and true champion of freedom, my friend of many years, Sefior Don Jose A. Godoy. the Consul of Mexico, Avho had fallen dead Avhile attending the last reception of Mr. Seward on the even ing previous, and bidding farewell to his stricken family, hurried on board the Pacific Mail Steamship Co's magnificent steamer Golden City, which was lying at her berth in San Francisco, Avith steam up, ready to bear us away to the tropics. Blue and clear was the sky aboA^e us, calm and mir ror like the surface of the broad Bay of San Francisco, soft as velATet in all their outlines, the broAvn, grey, and mauve-tinted mountains which surround it, Avhen seen through the purple haze of Autumn which enveloped city and village, hill, mountain, island, fortress, and inland sea, alike in its tender and loA~ing embrace.

When I come again from beyond the snoAvy mountains, and the shores of another ocean, a change Avill haATe come over all the fair scene, and hill and valley, moun- GOOD-BYE TO SAN FRANCISCO. tain and plain, Avill rejoice in the verdure and flowers of the spring-time. " Good-Bye !" " Good-Bye !" " Good- Bye ! " The last friendly hand is shaken, the last affectionate embrace is given, and the plank hauled in, the crash of the great gun on the forward deck star tles the echoes of all the hills around the bay, the great steamer moves slowly away from the wharf, swings around with the tide in the harbor, and gliding swiftly past the city front, the shipping from many THE GOLDEN GATE. ports, Alcatraz, Point San Jose, Fort Point, and the Presidio de San Francisco, passes through the Golden Gate, and heads out into the blue, illimitable Pacific.

The sea is calm, and the sky is clear, and everything promises a quiet, pleasant voyage. Capt. Lapidge, is an old and thorough seaman, Purser Mattoon under stands making everybody comfortable, and is disposed to do it in an off-hand, unobtrusive Avay, and Dr. Mil ler, U. S. A. is on hand to attend to all who need his professional services; so that all our wants, and all contingencies are provided for. From one end of the steamer to the other, everything goes on like clock- VOYAGE DOAVN THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA. 21 work, — no noise, no loud talking, no confusion ; Chinese sailors spread the awnings which are to shelter the passengers from the sun of the tropics, and Chinese waiters, clean, quiet, and orderly, Avith their list-soled slippers, move quietly about the cabin and state-rooms, keeping eArerything in order, and seeing that no Avants of the passengers are left unattended to.

On the whole, I think it must be conceded that John is the " coming man," and take him all in all, he is a pretty good fellow ; it is well for us that no worse man is to come in his place. On the afternoon of the second day — Friday — we Avere passing the islands off the Santa Barbara Coast, having made tAvo hundred and thirty-five miles during the first twenty-four hours. On Saturday Ave were out of sight of land all day, and the register showed a progress of tAvo hundred and twenty-two miles for the last twentjT-four hours. On Sunday afternoon we came in sight of the large barren island of Cerros, and its outlying rocks and lesser islands, and the whole of the afternoon and evening skirted along the treeless, red mountain shores of Mexican LoAver California. No liA^ng thing was to be seen on these A~erdureless moun tains.

Sitting back far enough from the rail to hide the blue stretch of water, you might fancy yourself upon the Colorado or Mojave Desert, Avithout any serious stretch of the imagination ; the same saffron-hued horizon, pale blue sky, red, broAvn, and yellow, jagged, naked mountains ; the same eternal silence of utter desolation. " Mother," said a little prattling child upon the steam er, "mother, do anybody live in that land?" "No my darling, I hope not," was the earnest reply. God is merciful, and I trust she Avas right. MEETING OF STEAMERS AT NIGHT. Sunday service at sea, of the Episcopal Church, was read by Capt. Lapidge, the few cabin passengers all joining in the responses, and then we Avent out on deck to watch the changes in the dreary, barren shore. A single little sail came in sight, and passed near enough for us to see that the craft was a sloop, of perhaps, tAventy tons burthen, flying no flag, and carrying some half dozen dark-hued men — Italians, or other southern Europeans — Avho made no signals, and evidently did not care to court attention to the business in which they were engaged, whatever that might be ; there is a little smuggling carried on, even upon this barren coast.

Monday morning found us plowing through a. glassy sea, Avith no land, no sail, no bird in sight ; only the great, glaring sun in the unclouded sky, and the deep, blue, glittering sea below. At 2 p. m. Ave were in sight of land once more — as desolate and uninhabited as the last. Had any one told us that day, that the noble steamer Avhich Avas bearing us so safely and swiftly over the sea, would in less than six months more be lying an utter wreck on that terrible shore, with what increased interest would we have gazed on both ! Passing Santa Margarita Island and Magdalena Bay, at sunset we were well toAvard Cape St. Lucas, or Avithin one hundred miles thereof. At 5 p. M. we were a thousand miles from home. At 8 p. m. a light was seen before us ; then blue and red signal lights were sent up, and answered, and soon, out of the darkness emerged the great hull of the steamship Montana.

Both steamers stopped, boats were sent off to exchange the latest papers from either side of the continent and carry letters and messages A DESOLATE REGION. 23 for the dear ones far aAvay. Then a stream of flame shot far out across the Avaters from either steamer's deck, the loud roar of the signal guns filled the star tled air, and the two great black masses moved away SAviftly into the darkness again, and each was lost to the sight of those on board the other. I know of no scene which one may A\ritness in all one's life, more full of unwritten poetry, unenacted romance, more dreamily suggestiAre of " Avhat might have been," than this meeting and parting of two great steamers on the pathless sea. Who were they Avho croAvded the decks and wonderingly Avatched us as we Avatched them ? In AArhat mysterious way were their liATes linked Avith ours?

Were there any there who might haA^e loved us, any we might have loATed ? What stories of love and hatred, and all the thousand emotions Avhich distract the human mind, and affect for good or ill a human life, were spoiled, Avhen the thousand souls which those tAvo steamers bore, came thus near together, almost Avithin touching distance, as it were, and then parted again, and for the most part forever? Had Ave met and mingled, how the whole story of this life, or that, might have been affected, and changed it may be for all time. There is food for con jecture and speculation Avithout end in all this, but it is only vague unsatisfying speculation after all, and the questions suggested to each of us, must remain unanswered to all, forever. Daybreak on Tuesday, October 5th, found us passing Cape St. Lucas, and within the tropics.

Still the same dreary, barren, mountain shore ; not a sign of human life have we seen while skirting along the Lower Cali fornia coast for nearly a thousand miles ; not a tree, not; CASTOR -OIL AVHALES. a flower, not a blade of grass, no living thing of any kind — only rocks and sand and loneliness, eternal silence and utter desolation. All the settlements — and they are few at best — are on the inner or Gulf side of the peninsula, and completely hidden from the passing vessel. The sun poured down all day from an un clouded sky, and no breeze ruffled the face of the ocean, Avhich was smooth as a mirror, saAre where, at regular intervals, the long, heaA'y ground swells came rolling in from the southwestAvard, and pitched and tossed about the great steamer like an egg-shell. The poet says : There is no crowd however slight But one cockney is there."