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Journal of a cruise among the islands of the Western Pacific. With maps and plates

John Elphinstone Erskine · 1853 · Scanned text

191,027 words · about 13 h 23 min to read

Period artwork: Interior of the Bodleian Library, 1845
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About this book

Author
John Elphinstone Erskine
Language
English
Published
1853
Length
191,027 words · about 13 h 23 min
Sections
10 reader sections
Text
Scanned text, read from page scans by OCR; may contain errors
Rights
Public Domain Mark 1.0

 

Contents (10)
  1. Chapter I under 1 min
  2. Chapter II under 1 min
  3. Chapter III about 1 min
  4. Chapter IV about 1 min
  5. Chapter V about 2 min
  6. Chapter VI under 1 min
  7. Chapter VII about 3 min
  8. Chapter I. Introductory about 31 min
  9. Chapter II about 9 h 50 min
  10. Appendix about 2 h 54 min

Continue:

Chapter I

Introductory. PAGE Western groups in the Pacific — Former visits to them — Plan and objects of the cruize — Nomenclature — Orthography of native names — System of the missionaries adopted — Passage from Australia — Savage Island — Samoan Islands — Tongan Islands — Feejee Islands — New Hebrides — Loyalty Islands — New Caledonia — Isle of Pines — Missionaries to Melanesia 1

Chapter II

Sail from New Zealand — Eocher de l'Esperance, or French Rock — Curtis Island — Nautical remarks — Niue or Savage Island — Traffic with the inhabitants — Position of the island — Three islands doubtful

Chapter III

The Samoan Islands. Manua — Appearance of Manua-tele — Feleasau — The fala-tele — Tau — The chief Tui Manua — First Christian teachers — Former cannibalism — Tutuila — Harbour of Pango-Pango — Fine appearance of the people — The chief Maunga — Nature of chieftainship — Government of Tutuila — Village of Fanga-saa — Description of houses — Alarm at our arrival — Reception — Preparation of ava — Ceremonies at drinking — " The Princess " — Inferiority of female beauty — Great meeting — Presents — Orations — Review — Good disposition of Tuituilans — Contrary opinions — Former affrays — Manufacture of cocoa-nut oil — Food — Canoes — Hooping cough — Bay of Leone — Upolu and Savaii — Apia — British residents — Districts of Upolu — The " Malo " — Changes among the tribes — Causes of the present war — Hopes of accommodation — Cases of Alepia and Morio — Offer of mediation — Indemnification to British subjects — Mr. Consul Pritchard — Wrecking — The chief Malietoa — Discussion on the war — A " fono " — Public speaking — Great politeness — Fortifications — Vailele — Atua district — Lufi-Lufi — Mr. Drummond's house — Interview with chiefs of war-party — The chief Pek — Sango-polotele, the " Raging Bull " — Malua — Missionary , institutions — CONTENTS.

IV PAGE 84 Malietoa's army — Panic — Retreat — Mission premises — Alepia's bouse — Apolima — Manono — Ravaged country of Aana — An Ameri can whaler and trader — Native singing-school — Divine service in Samoan — Meeting with neutral chiefs — Message from war-party — Resident white men — Review — Visits from different chiefs — Change in Samoan character — London mission — Old superstitions — Polite ness — Cannibalism — Cosmogony — Migrations and origin — Popula tion — Epidemics — Government — Commercial treaties — Apia shipping list — Samoan language — Arts and manufactures — Habits — Appearance of the islands — Vegetation — Hurricanes — Position of Apia — Supplies

Chapter IV

Friendly, or Tongan Islands. Sail from Samoa — Vavau — Manufacture of tapa — Appearance of people — Village of Neiafu — Our pilot Vuke — Church — A jailer and his prisoner — Port Eefuge — Hurricanes — Volcanoes and their effects — Lifuka — King George and his queen — A king's messenger — Vuke's ambition — Pig-market — Visit from the king — The Tui- Tonga — Political history of Tonga — Titles and precedence — George's prospects and character — Laws — Burial-place — The missionaries — Canoes and sailors — The king's apprehensions — The Opposition — Sectarian collisions — Cloth-dyeing — House of Correction — Supplies — Sailing remarks — Tonga-tabu — Nukualofa — Management of canoes — French missionary — Protestant mission premises — The chief Mumui — Former attacks on vessels — Sandalwood expeditions — Methuselah Tae's account of affrays at Eromango and Vate — Sandalwood trade — Shipwrecked Englishmen — Fort of Bea — Chiefs — Complaints of the French missionary — A vagrant Englishman — Derivation of native names — Missionaries' letters — Defence of Wesleyans — Difference between chiefs and people of Tonga — Manners — Acquirement of Feejeean habits — Cannibalism Position of women — Humour — Mythology — Population — Diseases — Language — Productions — Winds — Sand or coral banks — Want of a survey ........... 113

Chapter V

Feejee Islands. Passage from Tonga-tabu to the Feejees — Lakemba — The people The governor and his wife — The chief Tui-Neau — Houses Game of tika — Population — Cannibalism — Agriculture — Trade— Ovolau — White settlement — David Whippy — Expulsion of white men Their return — The chief Tui Levuka — His admiration of music — Viwa — Navindi, chief of the fishermen — Chiefs of Viwa Bau The chief Thakombau — Visit of the Butoni — Cannibal banquet — Arrival of victims — Three victims rescued by missionaries' wives CONTENTS.

V PAGE Good policy of missionaries — Town of Bau — Tanoa's den — Visit to Thakombau — Speech to the chief — His reply and invitation — Visit to Navindi — Strangers' house — Decent habits — Great temple — Queen of Rewa — Feast at Thakombau's — Pillows and crockery — White men in the Feejees — Charles Pickering — Charles Savage — Massacre of a French crew — Domestic slavery — The chief Namose malua — Retention of native customs — Missionary duties — Thakom bau's politeness and tact — Chiefs on board — Gunnery practice — Effects of shot — Alarm and remonstrance — Presents — Mr. Cal vert's policy — Dance and chant — Rocket-firing — Purchase of pigs — Serious conversation with Thakombau — Mission stations — A con vivial scene — Feejeean polity — Ruling districts — Supremacy of Bau — Ranks and titles — " Kolo " of Levuka — Women of the kolo — Timber — Punishment for theft — Tui-Levuka's offers to his friends — Escape of young Whippy — Nandi — Threatened attack on Christians — Service at native church — Chief of So-Levu — Bua — Christianity — The chief Pita — Voluntary death of a widow — Fate of shipwrecked persons — Sacred bowls — The chief Tui Thakau buried alive — Ceremonies in such cases — Sandalwood — Dama — Letter of the chief Retova — Mutual jealousy of chiefs — Navigation of the Feejees — Appearance of natives — Mixture of races — Lan guage — Cosmogony — Deities — Belief in a future state — Blood thirstiness — The priesthood — Impostors — * Prayer — Division of time — Government — The " tabu " — Position of women ■ — Marriage — Education — Cannibalism — Cannibal supply and cookery — White men's flesh not eaten — Mode of living — Manners — Dress and orna ments — Manufactures — Climate — Winds — Earthquakes — Vege tation — Commerce — Affrays with foreign vessels — Population — Increase of cannibalism — Character — Cannibalism not confined to savages — Its easy eradication — Energy of converts — Impolicy of coercion — Missionary progress — Unfair accounts of Missionaries — Speculations for the future 165

Chapter VI

Reasons for the Bramble's cruize — Lieut. Pollard at Nukulau and Bau— Effects of the visit — Peaceful professions of Thakombau — Death and funeral of Navindi — Visits of foreign vessels — Trial and execution on board the United States ship Falmouth — Wrecks — Extracts from Lieut. Pollard's journal . . . . . .281

Chapter VII

The New Hebrides, New Caledonia, and the Loyalty Islands. Aneiteum — Mr. Paddon — Natives — Wrecks — French mission — Whales — Tana — Port Resolution — Leonard Cory — The chief Kaiassi — Want of interpreters — Natives — Arrest of an Englishman — Bishop of New Zealand — Eromango — Black Beach— Tribes of VI CONTENTS.

PAGE Lawaakus and Lonantum — Affrays with traders — Doubtful friends — White Beach — The chief Gaskin — The "Missionary Chief" — Bl success of missionaries — Sandalwood trade — Cultivation — Lan guage — Witchcraft — Cannibalism — Vate — Communication with natives — Barter — Chiefs — Sandalwood affrays — Massacres of Eng lish crews — Atrocities of traders — Sema — The common house — Dress — Language — Habits — Supplies — Havannah harbour — Loyalty Islands — Uea — Natives — Tradition of migration — Lan guage — Islanders carried to New South Wales — The chief Nikelo — Women and girls — The bishop's voyage — Visit of Captain Oliver in the Fly — New Caledonia — One-Tree Island — Barrier reef — Natives of Tuau — Yengen — Dance on deck — The chief Basset — His house — Excursion up the Kelaut — Cultivation — Women — A thief de tected — Quarrels with the people — Captain Cook's account of them — Numerals — Commerce — Wreck Bay, Lifu — Natives — A chief " niassi-polua " — Volunteers for Sydney — Appearance of the people — Numerals — Opinions of missionaries — Islands off Mare — Keama — Descendants of Tongan immigrants — Civil war in Lifu — Ceremo nious reception — Restitution of plunder — House of the chief Tike — Want of water — Appearance of the people — Sandalwood trade — Mas sacres — * Trial of a trader for murder — Modes of treating savages — Geography of Loyalty group — Confusion in nomenclature — Diversity of names — Isle of Pines — Tales of sandalwood traders — Massacre of captain and crew of the Star — Attack on the Catherine — Affrays in New Caledonia — Atrocities of traders — The French mission — Aspect of the country — The bishop at Kraji — The chief Matuku — Yanekari, a native — Numerals — Nautical doubts — New Caledonia — South-west coast — Examination of the chief Angulla — His detention — Run to Jitema — Angulla released — Arrival at Port Jackson — Conclusion 299 APPENDIX— A. Narrative by John Jackson of his residence in the Feejees . . 411 B. Account of proceedings against Mr. J. C. Lewis touching the death of three natives off the island of Mare .... 478 C. Trade in Sandalwood _ 4gg LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Girls and Man of Uea, Loyalty Islands .... Frontispiece. PAGE Savage Island Canoe 23 Church at Manua 34 Interior of Tongan Church 113 Feejeean Village of Levuka, Ovolau 165 Navindi, Chief of the Fishermen, Feejee Islands 178 Woman of Feejee, wife of a white man 217 Maunga, Chief of Tutuila, Samoan Islands, and J » tv,V 1, rn.- e <■ u . ■ f to face page .240 Thakombau, Chief of Feejee . ' r Thakombau, Chief of Feejee, without the " sala," or turban . . . 281 Bluff Head, Lifu, Loyalty Islands 299 Women of Tana to face page . 306 Man of Tana, New Hebrides, and Chief of Vate, \ New Hebrides . . . . . J Man and Woman of Vate, or Sandwich Island . „ . 332 The " Gates of Yengen," New Caledonia . . ,, . 351 Basset, Chief of Yengen 352 Basset's House 353 Inferior Chief of New Caledonia, and Naisilini, \ (o face g Chief of Mare, Loyalty Islands . . .

I Chief of Mare, Loyalty Islands Yanekari, a Native of the Isle of Pines 399 The Map at the end. ERRATA. Page 21, bine l,for arancarias read araucarias. ,, 24, line 29, for p.m. read a.m. „ 39, line 3 from bottom, for Olasinga read Olosinga. „ 138, line 28, for bringing read /ringing. ISLANDS OF THE WESTERN PACIFIC.

Chapter I. Introductory

Western groups in the Pacific — Former visits to them — Plan and objects of the cruize — Orthography of native names — Savage Island — Samoan Islands — Tongan Islands — Feejee Islands — New Hebrides — Loyalty Islands — New Caledonia — Isle of Pines — Missionaries to Melanesia. Cons dering the interest excited in Europe by the d; xjo verie of Captain Cook and other navigators, among the islan s o*" 'he Pacific, tow-a^' tr-° end of centrTT, it is a matter of surprise that a period of time which has seen the establishment of our great settlements in Australia and New Zealand, rendering a knowledge of the western groups of that ocean an object of considerable commercial and political importance, has done little to extend our general acquaintance with them, even among our neigh bouring colonies.

As far as Great Britain is concerned, her commercial intercourse with these islands has been limited to a pre carious and almost piratical trade, carried on in small vessels (principally from Sydney), in sandalwood, trepang, tortoiseshell, and cocoa-nut oil ; whilst the only attempts to improve the character of the barbarous but energetic races of men inhabiting them, have been the somewhat unconnected efforts of different missionary societies, attended with varying success, to supersede their old T B FORMER VISITS TO THE ISLANDS. Chap. I. superstitions by the knowledge of the purer doctrines of Christianity. Previous to our occupation of New Zealand, the officer intrusted by the commander-in-chief in India with the temporary charge of the naval station at Sydney, New South Wales, had orders occasionally to visit the islands as far to the eastward as the 150th meridian of west longitude ; and several trips were accordingly made, the results of which showed that their regular recurrence would be very favourable to our colonial interests.

The troubles which broke out in New Zealand, however, occupying all the small naval force of the station, these visits, which had only in a few instances extended beyond the Society, Navigators', and Friendly Islands, were necessarily discontinued for several years. In 1 839 and 1 840 a survey was made of the Navigators' and Feejeean groups (with many others) by Lieut. Wilkes, commanding the United States Exploring Expedition, who afterwards published a very full account of these islands and their inhabitants ; but the voluminous character of his work, which treats of a great variety of countries and subjects, has prevented its being so generally read in this country as it deserves. M. Dumont d'Urville, in the course of his second voyage round the world, about the same time, passed a fortnight among the Feejees (which Captain Drinkwater Bethune had lately quitted in H.M.S. Conway), and has left a somewhat lengthened account of them ; but since then, our information respecting the islands of Melanesia (a name given by the French to all that tract between the meridian of Tonga and New Guinea inhabited by the Polynesian negro races) has been confined to a few mis sionary notices, and exaggerated accounts of atrocities committed against the persons and property of Europeans who were generally represented as peaceable traders.

The pacification of New Zealand having been at length Chap. I. PLAN OF THE PRESENT CRUIZE. 3 effected, under the able government of Sir George Grey, the commanding naval officer (who had now been permanently appointed to the Australian station1) was enabled to turn his attention to other points, and a plan being formed for a regular periodical inspection of all the islands of consequence within the limits of his command, the first cruize with this object, of which the following are the notes, was made in H. M.S. Havannah, in 1849.2 Many of the visits of ships-of-war, before alluded to, had been attended with lamentable affrays with the natives ; and indeed it seemed to be too much the custom to consider such visits as expeditions to search out offences, and, by exhibiting the assumed irresistible power of the white men's arms, and striking terror into the hearts of the savages by the certainty and severity of retribution, ensure their pacific conduct towards foreign traders and residents for the future.

A more enlightened policy (the original example of which had been set by the illustrious Cook) had, how ever, been adopted by some of our officers ; 3 and, on fur ther examination, it seemed doubtful whether most of the atrocities said to have been perpetrated by the islanders had not been provoked by acts of aggression or miscon duct on the part of the white men. It was therefore determined that no act of hostility 1 The following were the limits assigned to the station : — On the north, the 10th degree of south latitude ; on the east, the meridian of the 170th degree of west longitude ; on the south, the Antarctic circle ; and on the west, the meridian of the 75th degree of east longitude. 2 The Havannah, a ship of 960 tons, was launched in 1811 as a 42-gun frigate ; but about 1846 the bulwarks of her upper deck were lowered, and her armament altered to sixteen heavy guns on the main-deck, and three on the quarter-deck and" forecastle, the complement of men allotted to her being 240, including all classes.

When stored for a four months' voyage the usual draught of water was 18 feet 6 inches. 3 It would be unjust not to mention the names of Captains Drinkwater Bethune of the Conway, Sir Everard Home of the North Star, and Maxwell of the Dido, whose treatment of the inhabitants left the most favourable impression towards the British, and it is to be regretted that no account of their cruizes has been made public, with the exception of a few straggling notices in the ' Nautical Magazine.' B OBJECTS PROPOSED. Chap. I. towards any of the native inhabitants should originate with us during the cruize, but that a system of forbearance and conciliation towards them should be the rule to be ob serve! on our part, both as that best calculated to impress their minds with the dignity of our power, which had hitherto been often compromised by paltry and ineffectual attacks, and also with some notions of law and justice, which ought to govern their intercourse with foreigners.

Whether the adoption for the future of such a system of policy would advance our commercial interests, by assist ing the missionaries in improving the social (to say nothing of the moral) condition of these races, must be determined by time, or left to conjecture. It is perhaps proper to remark, that on this cruize, no scientific object was contemplated beyond the examination of any anchorages, not previously known, which might be hastily surveyed; the encouragement and regulation of our trade being that alone proposed. Nor, in the following Journal (although the visits of former navigators are occasionally alluded to, to illustrate the subject), is it in tended by any means to offer a history of discovery among these islands, but simply to furnish such an account by an eye-witness, of their present state, as may assist some future historian in tracing the progress of improvement, or, alas ! of extinction, among the varied and interesting tribes of this extraordinary portion of the globe.1 1 The map which accompanies this work must be considered only as a track chart, since many islands, &c., to which our voyage had no reference are omitted ; and the size of the smaller islands is, for the sake of clearness' not always of the exact proportions.

The positions of the places inserted are given however from the latest and best authorities. For the illustrations, of which the coloured ones are intended to exhibit the shades of difference between the hues of the Polynesians and the more or less mixed negro races, I am indebted to Mr. Kempster Knapp, Naval In structor, and Dr. Henry Home Turnbull, Surgeon, of the Havannah, and particularly to my friend Captain Richard Alworthy Oliver, lately commanding H.M. sloop Fly on the Australian station, who, although himself en^a^ed in the publication of his beautiful sketches among the islands, not only placed his portfolio at my disposal, but has furnished me with drawings executed by himself on the wood. Chap. I. NOMENCLATURE AND ORTHOGRAPHY. 5 The few nautical remarks inserted are such only as may be useful to the practical navigator in a sea still little traversed by ships, and the reader is spared all accounts of occurrences on board which do not relate to the subjects in view, as well as details of difficulties and perils which often exist only in the imagination, and may generally be overcome or avoided by the ordinary exercise of seaman ship and prudence.

The experience of the missionaries, who have made themselves thoroughly acquainted with the Polynesian dialects, and partially so with those of Melanesia, has now enabled us to give to almost all the islands and places in this sea their proper native names, differing very much in many cases from those affixed to them by former navi gators, which even now, to the perplexity of seamen and geographers, are retained in most charts. Some of the most remarkable mistakes occur in the names, quite unknown in these seas, given by M. de la Perouse to the islands of Samoa, or the Navigators', as the native appellations ; nor is it easy to conjecture whence they were derived. It would appear that his giving the name of Maouna to Tutuila was caused by confusing it with the Manua group to windward, whilst a similar con fusion with respect to Upolu and Savaii induced him to name the latter island Pola.

It is also probable that Oyalava, M. de la Perouse's name for Upolu, signifying, " Is it there ? " was mistaken, as has happened in many instances, for the name of the land, instead of an interro gative reply to an inquiry. With respect to the orthography of the native names, it would seem easy, now that a regular system has been adopted by the missionaries in their translations of the Scriptures and other books, to establish uniformity in this particular ; but it is not so simple a matter as it at first appears. The Italian sound of the vowels having been adopted for the sake of simplicity, the English residing ORTHOGRAPHY OF NATIVE NAMES. Chap. I. in the islands, finding that such a spelling occasions false pronunciations among such of their countrymen as are acquainted with only their own language, make use of the English vowels when corresponding with them.

A missionary, for instance, writing to a friend in Sydney, or even to the secretary of his own society in London, from the Fiji islands, would spell them the Feejees, whilst to his neighbours he would use the native orthography. Some letters also have sounds assigned to them, different not only from the English but from those of all other European languages. There being, for example, no sound of simple g in the Samoan, Tongan, and Feejeean dialects, it being always accompanied by a nasal n, the latter becomes an unnecessary letter, and is omitted. Thus Pang-o-Pang-o, tb.e harbour of Tutuila, is spelt Pago-Pago, and Tong-a, Toga, although, as mentioned before in the case of the vowels, in writing to an European the latter would cer tainly be spelt Tonga, and indeed is so in the English portion of the vocabulary of the two languages, compiled and printed at Tonga-tabu.

The good policy of the first missionaries in laboriously reducing the native languages to grammatical and written forms as the best means of rapidly disseminating the Christian religion, is generally admitted; but as the ultimate spread of the English language and literature must be an object of the greatest importance, it seems questionable if future advantages were not sacrificed to the immediate one of simplicity when the Italian pronunciation of the vowels was fixed on. Already in New Zealand, where the time for teaching English has arrived two systems of orthography are necessarily taught in some schools, an inconvenience which the original adoption of the English spelling would have obviated. Captain Wilkes, and the officers of the United States Exploring Expedition, seem to have proceeded on no regular principles in their nomenclature and orthography, Chap. I. PASSAGE TO THE ISLANDS FROM AUSTRALIA. 7 many of the names having been taken apparently from American and English traders or whalers.

Thus, in Tutuila, Fanga-saa, or Sacred Bay, adjoining the Massacre Bay of de la Perouse, is printed Fungasar, and in the Feejees, the village of So Levu, where a number of white men resided, is called by their corrupted name of Sua- Lib, being what is termed among the islands beach-slang. However one may regret that the orthography of Cap tain Cook, who was seldom, except in trifling instances, mistaken in the names of persons or places, was not taken as the foundation for that of the written languages of Polynesia, it has now been so completely departed from as to render it necessary, for the sake of clearness, to adopt principally the new system of the missionaries. I shall therefore do so in general, feeling myself however at liberty to depart from it (as, for instance, in the case of the Feejees, which are usually known under that name even in the present day), when a rigid adherence might either be unintelligible or pedantic.1 A short notice of the different islands or groups, in the order in which the Havannah touched at them, will enable the reader to follow the ship's progress on the chart.

As the south-east trade-windgenerally prevails to the northward of the 25th parallel of south latitude, blowing most steadily from May to November, the quickest mode of visiting the islands in succession from our Australian colonies is to take advantage of the frequent westerly winds a few degrees to the southward of the parallel above mentioned, 1 The following are the sounds given to the letters in native words : — a as a in father. e as a in mate. i as ee in meet. o as 6 in mote. u as oo in rule. The consonants as in English, excepting in Feejeean words, where b has, more or less faintly, the sound of m before it, as bure, or m'bure, a temple. d, of n, as dina, or n'dina, true. n has generally a nasal sound, as Navindi, or G'Navindi. Chap. I. 8 SAVAGE ISLAND. and proceed as quickly as possible to the eastward.

When in about the 170th degree of west longitude a course may be shaped to the northward into the limits of the trade wind, which will then enable a ship to make rapid pro gress back to the westward, touching at the various groups on her return voyage. Leaving New Zealand then, and proceeding to the easternmost extremity of the voyage (the 170th meridian of west longitude), the first island in order is Niue, the Savage Island of Captain Cook, who discovered and landed on it in June, 1774. He describes the inhabitants as coming on his party, who endeavoured to bring them to a parley, "with the ferocity of wild boars," and failed in holding the smallest communication with them. This island seems not to have been noticed again until 1830, when the Kev. John Williams, of the London Mis sionary Society, touched at it on his passage from Raro tonga to the Navigators' Islands, with the hope of being able to leave there two native Christian teachers from Aitutaki.

Although this purpose was not effected, he succeeded in persuading two lads of the island to leave their homes with him, and it is believed that these men, having received some education, were afterwards sent back, and ultimately put to death by their countrymen, on the supposition that an epidemic disease which broke out shortly after their return had been brought by them from the white men. Mr. Williams, in his interesting ' Nar rative of Missionary Enterprises in the South Sea Islands,' mentions the report of a boat belonging to a vessel which had touched there a few months before him, having been seized and the crew massacred, but no record of such an event has been found at Sydney. These islanders must, however, have had a good deal of communication with passing ships between this period and that of our visit in 1849, as they flocked alongside of us without fear, and were easily persuaded to come on board.

Savage Island Chap. I. CHRISTIAN MISSIONS IN THE SAMOAN ISLANDS. 9 is about thirty miles in circumference, and lies in lat. 19° S., long. 1691° W. At a day and a half's run to the northward lie the islands of Samoa, or, as they were named by M. de Bou gainville, who discovered the easternmost inhabited portion of the group in May, 1768, " L'Archipel des Naviga teurs," a name which, if we compare the nautical skill of the inhabitants with that of their neighbours to the south west, the Tongans or Friendly Islanders, they scarcely seem to deserve. This beautiful and fertile group consists of the four larger islands of Manua-tele or Tau, Tutuila, Upolu, and Savaii, with several smaller ones, Savaii, the largest, being about 40 miles long by 25 broad. Tutuila, under the name of Maouna, which M. de la Perouse mistakingly applied to it, acquired an unenviable notoriety in 1787, in consequence of the massacre of M. de Langle, second in command in M. de la Perouse's unfortunate expedition, with eleven officers and men, in a bay on its northern side, which has retained the name of Massacre Bay in consequence.

In 1830 Mr. Williams established a mission on these islands by means of native teachers from Barotonga, who were replaced in 1836 by six British missionaries of the London Missionary Society. These now number eighteen (mostly married men, with families), the majority being Scotch Congregationalists. They have made considerable progress among the people, a large proportion of whom are now professing Christians, and for several years, in spite of occasional vexatious wars among the tribes, a stranger may consider his life and property as safe in Samoa (as the natives term the whole group), as in any part of the world. The Mission has, besides numerous chapels and schools, an institution for the education of native teachers in Upolu, calculated for sixty scholars ; and at the printing- POPULATION OF SAMOA.

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