Records of Walmer together with 'The Three Castles that keep the Downs' ... Illustrated, etc

Front matter

gtecwfc* of palmer* S* Mary's Church UPPER WALMER The New Parish Church of St. Mary, Upper Walmer, shewing the proposed tower and spire. (Enlarged hy C. N. Elvin, Esq., from a sketch by Sir Arthur Blomfield.) I^ecorb^ of ptstimer together iPttl? "®lje ®ljvee ©cistU* tljat gucp itye Qown&+" i;\ THE REV. CHARLES R. S. ELVIN, M.A., ' — \c- Assistant Curate of Walmer. The South-East View of Walmer Castle. ILLUSTRATED WITH THIRTEEN PHOTO-ENGRAVINGS AND TWO MAPS. LONDON : Henry Gray, Genealogical and Topographical Bookseller and Publisher, 47, Leicester Square, London, W.C. 1890. 5, TO The Right Honourable EARL GRANVILLE, K.G., Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports, THIS WORK ON THE JJ-ecorfcs -erf *8$alxnzx IS DEDICATED, WITH HIS LORDSHIP'S PERMISSION, BY HIS FAITHFUL AND OBLIGED SERVANT THE AUTHOR. Alexandra Terrace, Lower Walmer, November, 1890. 1*1 Seven years ago, in fact just at the time when I first came to Walmer, a visit was paid to Walmer Castle by some members of the British Archæological Association, and some regret was expressed at the apparent absence of records connected with that fortress.

This circumstance induced me at the earliest opportunity to commence a search in London ; with the result that I speedily discovered, among the Civil War Tracts in the British Museum, some records of a most interesting nature, which associated the Castles on the Downs with the Insurrection in Kent in 1648. Thus encouraged I continued to prosecute my researches, not merely at the British Museum, but also at the Public Record Office, and other places, at every available opportunity ; though from pressure of parochial work and the distance of Walmer from the Metropolis, I was seldom able to frequent the depositories of our national archives except on the occasion of my annual summer holiday. The material thus collected, together with that furnished by the parochial and other local records, has been the principal source from which the information in these pages has been derived ; though many scattered allusions and isolated facts, recorded in the pages of former writers, have been brought together, and made to take their proper place in the sequence of events.

Remarks have been made to me during the progress of this work through the press, which tend to shew that there are still some persons who cannot appreciate a book whose avowed object is merely to elucidate the history of a single parish ; but no apology, I venture to think, is needed in these days for such a work as the present one. Parochial history is no longer the neglected field that it once was ; and the days are probably not far distant, when every parish that has the least respect for itself, will possess its written history. X

Preface

. My reasons for including, to the extent that I have included them, the three Castles, and not merely Walmer Castle, will be sufficiently obvious to all who take up this book. The history of the Castles on the Downs is so inseparably intertwined, that, down to a certain point, they could be dealt with in no other way but collectively. The Chapters on the Castles will also be found to contain a good deal that is not exclusively of a local character, particularly in the details of the Insurrection in Kent already referred to ; but this, too, was inevitable, in order to elucidate the doings in our own immediate locality. Having often had occasion to regret the absence of a thoroughly good Index in works of a topographical description, I have endeavoured to preserve these Records from that defect by the addition of an exhaustive Index of Persons as well as of a copious Index of Events.

My obligations I have endeavoured to acknowledge, as will be seen throughout these pages ; but I must here particularly record my indebtedness to the Earl and Countess Granville for their invariable kindness in aiding my researches as far as it lay in their power. Nor must I omit to mention, as I shall never forget, the kindness and encouragement accorded me by the late Bishop of Dover, particularly in granting me access at all times to the valuable Library of the Dean and Chapter at Canterbury. To my father I am indebted for much valuable assistance, especially for his drawings of Walmer Castle and the New Parish Church, and his exquisite delineation of Lord Granville's arms ; to Mr. S. W. Kershaw for information on the subject of Refugee families in England ; to Mr. G. J. Symons for permission to reproduce his account of the Whirlwind at Walmer ; to Mr. W. H. Franklin, of Deal, for putting some photographs at my service ; and to the Rev. W. F. Shaw, Mr. J. L. Roget, Mr. Thomas Dorman, Mr. R. J. Fynmore, and Mr. Humphrey Wood, for help accorded me in various ways.

It only remains for me to say that any additions or corrections will be thankfully received and duly acknowledged. CHARLES R. S. ELVIN. Walmer, November, 1890. CONTENTS. Preface IX. Illustrations and Maps ... ... ... ... ... ... ... XV. List of Subscribers ... ... ... ... ... ... ... XVII.

Chapter I

Introductory. I. Position and Area — Leland's Description. 2. Coast Changes. 3. Perambulation ... ... .. ... ... .. ... 1

Chapter II

General History. 1. Origin of Parishes. 2. Beating the Bounds. 3. Etymology. 4. Romano-British Remains. 5. The Borsholder of Walmer. 6. Watch on sea-coast, temp. Edwd. III. and Henry IV. 7. Connection with the Cinque Ports. 8. Petition to the Lord Warden. 9. Walmer in 1626. 10. Men pressed at Walmer in 1628. 11. Blake and Van Tromp. 12. The Plague in these parts. 13. New Charter granted to Sandwich 27

Chapter III

Manorial History. 1. Knight-service. 2. Fruits and consequences. 3. Decadence of Knight-service. 4. The Manoir or Manor. 5. Walmer and the Superior Lords. 6. D'Auberville. 7. De Criol. 8. Fogge to Isham. 9. Isham to Hugessen. 10. Hugessen to Leith — Pedigrees ... ... ... ... 51

Chapter IV

Church History. 1. The Old Parish Church. 2. Walmer Church and Langdon Abbey. 3. The Dissolution of Langdon Abbey. 4. Fate of Walmer Church. 5. Confiscation of Church Property. 6. Queen Elizabeth and Recusants. 7. The Solemn League and Covenant. 8. Effects of the Covenant. 9. Petition re Bromstone. 10. The Restoration. 11. Alterations to the Old Parish Church, A.D, 18 16. 12. Additions to the Church, A.D, 1826. 13. Further Alterations. 14. Architectural Description. 15. Addenda ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

Chapter V

The Benefice. i. The Rectory of Walmer. 2. The Curacy and Vicarage. 3. The Incumbents. 4. Notes on the Incumbents. 5. Augmentations. 6. The Vicarage House. 7. The Glebe. 8. Tenths and First-fruits 103

Chapter VI

Parochial Records. 1. The Parish Registers. 2. The Monuments of the Old Parish Church. 3. The Hatchments. 4. The Churchyard, its yew-trees and its monuments. 5. The Churchwardens. 6. King's Letters, or Church Briefs. 7. Church Rates. 8. Churchwardens' Accounts. 9. Charities. 10. Parish Clerks 119

Chapter VII

The Three Castles of Walmer, Deal, and Sandown. 1. The Bulwarks at Walmer and Deal. 2. Foundation of the Castles. 3. Establishment and Pay. 4. Description. 5. Further History — Reinforcements — The Spanish Armada — A Supply — Muster-roll — Decay ofthe Castles — Garrison presentments — Miscellaneous particulars — Further decay of the Castles — Hollanders made to lower their colours — Repairs to the Castles — The King v. The Lord of the Manor ... ... ... ... 157

Chapter VIII

The Castles (continued). 1. Commencement of the Great Rebellion. 2. The Insurrection in Kent — The Kentish Petition — Rendezvous on Barham Downs — Sir Richard Hardres at Sandwich — Dover Castle besieged — Admiral Rains borough — Revolt of the Navy — Surrender ofthe three Castles — Declaration of Navy — The seamen's oath — Advance of Royalist to Blackheath — Defeat at Maidstone — Storming of Dover Castle — The seige raised — Fight at sea — Storming of Walmer Castle — Relief of Sandown and Deal — Fight at Walmer — Further Declaration of Navy — Reduction of Walmer Castle — Engagement at Deal — The Prince's First Fruits — Colonel Rich's despatch — Letter describing the Victory — Royalist Victory at Sea — The Earl of Warwick. 3. Garrison and pay, temp. Commonwealth. 4. Repairs to Castles — Supplies. 5. Dutch war of 1652. 6. Charles II and the Castles. 7. The Garrison at various periods. 8. Extracts from the State Papers. 9. Colonel Hutchinson ...

Chapter IX

The Castles (continued). I. Events of A.D. 1666 — War with France and Holland — Letters from Walmer Castle — Peace proclaimed. 2. The English Revolution A.D. 1688 — Alarm from the Downs. 3. Final remarks on Deal and Sandown Castles. 4. Captains of Walmer Castle. 5. Notes on the Captains of Walmer Castle ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 220

Chapter X

Recent History of Walmer Castle, I. The official residence of the Lord Warden. 2. Lord Wardens resident at Walmer. 3. Notes on the Lord Wardens. 4. Buonaparte expected — The preparations. 5. Sir Arthur Wellesley at Deal. 6. Ad ditions to the Castles. 7. Improvements to the Giounds. 8. Historical Trees 236

Chapter XI

Royal Visitors, &c. 1. Royalty at the Castles. 2. Progress of Henry VIII. 3. Land ing of Anne of Cleves. 4. Queen Elizabeth. 5. Visit of King Charles II. 6. The Duke and Duchess of Clarence. 7. Wellington and his Royal Guests. 8. The Duchess of Kent and the Princess Victoria. 9. Her Majesty and Prince Albert — A Royal Birthday kept at Walmer Castle- Prince Albert's visit to the beacon refuge — Diary — Vain projects— The royal yacht in the Downs. 10. The Prince Consort's last visit. 11. Well ington's last Royal Guests. 12. Death of the Duke of Wellington. 13. The Duke's room ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 259

Chapter XII

Natural Phenomena. 1. Earthquakes. 2. Waterspouts. 3. Great Gales, 1703, 1807, and 1870. 4. Whirlwind at Walmer, October 24th, 1878 279

Chapter XIII

The Barracks. 1. History — The Old Barracks at Deal — A ludicrous ineident — Troops withdrawn — Barracks proposed as a Poor House — Quarters for the Blockade-men — A Coastguard Station — The Depot Battalion — -The Royal Marines. 2. Regiments represented at Walmer. 3. The Military Burial Ground 4. The Old Hospital at Walmer. 5. The Royal Naval Hospital. 6. The Naval Burial Ground. 7. Chaplains to the Garrison ...

Chapter XIV

Recent Church History. i. St. Saviour's — History. 2. Description of St. Saviour's. 3. Pre sentations. 4. Partial Endowment. 5. The New Parish Church — History. 6. Description. 7. Presentations ... ... ... ... ... ... 305

Chapter XV

Miscellaneous Topics. I. Statistics of Population, etc. 2. Climate and Healthiness. 3. The Boatmen and their Avocations. 4. The Life-boat. 5. Poor Law. 6. The National Schools. 7. Her Majesty's Jubilee. 8. Protestant Refugee Families. 9. Epitome of Recent History ... ... ... ... ... 328