The Karakorams and Kashmir. An account of a journey

Front matter

BOOKS ON CLIMBING. Climbs in the New Zealand Alps : Being an Account of Travel and Discovery. Bv E. A. Fit/ GERALD, F.R.G.S., and with contributions by Sir Martin- Conway, Prof. Boxxey, and C. L. Barrow. Illustrated by Joseph Pexxell, H. G. Willink, and A. D. McCormick, and from photographs ; together with a Xew Map. Cloth, 31s. 6d. nett. Also an Edition de Luxe, on Japan paper, frontispiece portrait of the author, by Sir E. BURNE-JONES, price £5 5s. nett. 740 pages, cloth, price 31s. 6d. nett. Climbing: and Exploration in the Karakoram= Himalayas. By Sir William M. Coxway, M.A., F.S.A., F.R.G.S. 300 Illustrations by A. D. McCormick, and a Map. Supplementary Volume of Scientific Memoranda, &c, to Climbingand Exploration in the Karakoram = Himalayas. With Photogravure Portrait of Sir VJ. 51.

Conway, and his Maps, and Scientific Reports bv Prof. T. G. Bonnev., D.Sc, F.R.S., Dr. A. G. Butler, F.L.S.. F.Z.S., Sir W. M. Conwav, W. Laurance H. Duckworth, B.A., Lt.-Colonel A. G. Durand, C.B., W. Botting Hemslev, F.R.S., W. F. Kirbv, F.L.S., F.E.S., Miss C. A. Raisin, B.Sc, Prof. C. F. Roy. With frontispiece portrait of the author, cloth, 15s. nett ; or, in binding uniform with the Edition de Luxe of the former volume, price 21s. nett. Third Edition. My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus. By A. F. MUMMERY. Illustrated from Original Drawings and Photographs by Joseph PEXXELL, A. Holmes. J. Woolev, Seli.a, and other artists. Super Royal Svo, cloth, 21s. nett. An Artist in the Himalayas. By A. D. McCormick. Illustrated with over 50 Original Sketches made on the Journev. Large Crown 8vo, cloth gilt, 1 6s. In Preparation.

Climbing Reminiscences of the Dolomites, 1893. By Leoxe Sixigaglia. Translated from the Italian by Mary Alice Vialls. CONWAY & COOLIDQE CLIMBERS' GUIDES. Edited by Sir William II. Coxway and Rev. W. A. B. Coolidge. 321110, limp cloth, gilt lettered, with poeket, Hap, and pencil, price 10s. each. Also, a Series of Six Coloured Maps of the Alps ok the Dauphixy, mounted on linen, and strongly hound in cloth case, price 4s. 6d. the set. 1. The Central Pennine Alps. By Sir William Martin Coxway. 2. The Eastern Pennine Alps. By Sir William Martin Coxway. 5. The Chain of Mont Blanc. Bv LOITS KURZ. 6. The Adula Alps of the Lepon. tine Range. By Rev. W. A. B. Coolidge. 7. The Mountains of Cog-ne. Bv George Yeld and W. A. B. Coolidge. With Map. S. The Range of the Todi. By Rev. W. A. B. Coolidge. 9.

Preface

. THIS small book is not a work upon Kashmir, but a description of the principal matters which struck me on a journey which 1 made there. It neither formulates general views as to that country, nor criticises those formulated by others. Consisting of letters written home at the time and of entries made in my diary, it records no more than the impressions made upon me personally by the sights and incidents which I saw. Those impressions were so vivid that I am almost encouraged to hope that, even if I have only transcribed a small part of them, some readers may nevertheless share the enjoyment which my journey gave me. Preface. X Neither my letters nor my diary were written for publication. I have, however, thought it best — for two reasons — to alter them as little as possible. I wish, on the one hand, to keep the narrative as it originally was — an unsophisticated statement of actual impressions as they occurred.

On the other hand, I know that if the subject-matter does not give sufficient interest to the narra tive, I have no literary experience or skill which can enhance it. Some part of my journey is, I understand, referred to in Sir W. M. Conway's book, " Climbing and Exploration in the Kara koram Himalayas," and in Mr. McCormick's book, " An Artist in the Himalayas " ; but I have thought that it would be more satis factory to me to defer reading those books till this account has been independently published.

Introduction

. FOR more than twenty years my own work has been mainly scientific, and my play has been, whenever opportunity offered, the climbing of mountains. In the summer of 189 1 I met Professor (now Sir) W. M. Conway at Zermatt, where we had often met before ; and when he asked whether I was disposed to join him in an expedition to the Karakoram mountains to climb and to make geographical and other exact observations, I had no difficulty in realising that, if the trip were practicable, I should very much like it. My own engage ments made it difficult for me to accept ; but ultimately things were arranged, and I was able to agree that I would join. The expe- Introduction. XII dition was to be assisted by the Royal Geographical Society, and was to consist of the Hon. C. G. Bruce (son of Lord Aberdare, a late President of the Royal Geographical Society), Professor Conway, and myself, accompanied by the Alpine guide, Mattia Zurbriggen, or Del Ponte, of Macugnaga.

Later on it was also arranged that Mr. A. D. McCormick, an artist, should join the party. The plan of the expedition was this : Starting from Srinagar, the expedition was to go via Skardu to Askole, and there in the first instance attempt the ascent of the peak Mungo Gusor, the central position of which makes it particularly valuable as a point of view for topographical purposes. After this we were to ascend the Baltoro Glacier, attempting thence to ascend peaks, par ticularly K2, and to explore passes. We were then to pay a short visit to the Punmah Glacier, and thereafter attempt to reach the top of the R Zong La, the old pass formerly Introduction. XIII used as a route between Hunza and Nagyr and Skardu by native tribesmen. We were then to descend for some distance down the great Hispar Glacier, and then turn south and come over the Nushik La to Arandu.

If there was any time left, it was to be devoted to the exploration of the Chogo Lungma Glacier. Generally we were to survey the moun tains and glaciers, make such scientific observations as were practicable, and make collections of plants, minerals, etc. We wished in particular to reach as great an altitude as possible, in order to obtain information on the much discussed and as yet quite unsettled questions as to the physio logical effect of reduced pressure of atmosphere on the human system. A part of this programme was carried out. Of the remainder, some part could not have been under the circumstances in which we found ourselves. The condition, for instance, of some of our instruments was such that Introduction. XIV they could not be used for reliable obser vations. I have no doubt, however, that on these points ample information will be found in Sir W. M. Conway 's works ; and as they are only incidentally material to my present purpose, the reproduction of the impressions which I received on the journey, I need not further discuss them here.

CONTENTS. PAGE CHAP. I. Srinagar, Saturday-, April 2, 1892 . 1 II. Srinagar, Thursday, April 7 . .16 III. Bandipur, Thursday, April 14 . .26 IV. Burzil, Wednesday, April 20 . .31 V. Burzil, Sunday, April 24 . . .37 VI. Astor, Saturday, April 30 . . .45 VII. Bunji, Saturday, May 7 . . .55 VIII. Gilgit, Saturday', May 14 . . .68 IX. Dirran, Saturday, May 21 . . -79 X. Gilgit, Sunday, May 29 . . .90 XI. Gilgit, Tuesday, June 7 . . .98 XII. Nagyr, Thursday, June 16 . . . 118 XIII. Nagyr, Monday, June 27 . . . 137 XIV. Haiguttum, Monday, July 4 . .148 Contents. PAGE l6l CHAP. XV. Arandu, Thursday, July 7 XVI. Skardu, Wednesday, July 13 179 XVII. Askole, Tuesday, August 2 190 XVIII. Skardu, Friday, August 12 . 202 XIX. Srinagar, Monday, August 29 . . 217 XX. Srinagar — Conclusion . . . 228 XXI. Appendix — Routes ....

Srinagar, Saturday, April 2, 1892. WE lest England in the February of 1892 and travelled in the usual way by steamer and rail to Hassan Abdal. Then we went by mail tonga (a sort of mail cart) to Abbotabad, the important military station, where we arrived on March 10th. So far all travelling arrangements were distinctly luxurious. At Abbotabad we lived in much comfort in Bruce's house (the height of which above sea level is about 4,240 feet by B. P. determination) and were treated with great, I almost might say excessive, hospitality by 1 the officers stationed there. May their shadow never grow less ! Abbotabad is a beautifully situated spot. It lies in a broadish valley, with mountains running up on each side some 4,000 feet to 5,000 feet. It consists of a number of houses, each with considerable grounds, and so cover ing a good space.

There was still plenty of snow on the surrounding hills, for it was only just the end of winter ; and from a little hill called Brigade Circular, some 750 feet up, we could see in the far distance — perhaps one hundred miles, perhaps two hundred miles off — some mighty mountain masses running up to 20,000 feet or more, with glaciers plainly visible and recognisable as such. It was at Abbotabad that I first en countered the heathen merchant, and became aware of his peculiar way of doing business. While I was writing my first letter home, I was enjoying a mixed conversation in broken English and Hindustani with a native mer- Srinagar. 3 chant, who was trying to sell a piece of em broidery to me. The transaction took altogether two days. The first day he com menced by asking 75 rupees for it ; later on he was very anxious to toss whether I was to give him 40 or 50 rupees for it — verily it is a strange land.

I had originally offered 10 rupees for it ; but later on I withdrew my offer, and proposed five. This seemed to grieve him, and he made most pathetic appeals to my better feelings. The bargaining "proceeded through two-thirds of a long letter, of which it relieved the monotony, and it ultimately resulted in the transfer of the embroidery to me for 10 rupees. I thought it was worth it, and the native also seemed pleased. We have been joined by an American friend of Conway 's, Mr. J. H. Roudebush, a fine tall young man of about twenty, who is entirely without any experience of moun tain-climbing. He is going to travel with us till a convenient shooting ground is reached, and then he intends to amuse himself with shooting in company with another man, Colonel Lloyd-Dickin, who also is to accompany us so far.

We were delayed a few days at Abbotabad by our heavy luggage ; Roudebush and Lloyd-Dickin left us to try and get some sport on the way here; but at last, on March 28th, the rest of us started. We certainly formed a most imposing procession. First of all there was our heavy luggage which was loaded on twenty mules ; then there were the mule-drivers, and three Ghurka soldiers, of whom Parbir (who had been in Zermatt last December with Bruce and myself) was the boss in charge ; he being responsible for luggage, mules, &c, till he hands it over to us here. The other two are called Lilaram and Herkir. They all three belong to the Thapa clan. Of course the mules were bound to occupy much more time on the journey than we, as they did only one march a day; a "march" on this Srinagar. 5 way apparently being anything between ten and sixteen miles.

The mules, &c, were kindly placed at our disposal by the benevo lent Indian Government ; which Govern ment, I may incidentally remark, appears to be the most sensible I have yet struck. We ourselves went in native vehicles called "ekkas." An "ekka" is emphatically an invention of the devil. It is a two-wheeled contrivance devoid of any kind of or apology for springs. It holds two people, one pas senger and the driver ; there is a cubical shaped box, about 3 feet cube, in which the two people have to find room, the driver squeezing up in one corner in front, on the off side, and the passenger in the near back corner. The bottom of this box is about 5 feet off the ground ; and as the wheels are about 4 feet 6 inches in diameter, stability is chiefly distinguished by its absence. What with jolting and the uncomfortable position one is screwed into, it is far and away the worst means of progression that I have ever attempted, and I don't want more of it than I can possibly help.

In this case, however, we had to put up with them ; and there were therefore added to the procession five ekkas, containing Conway, McCormick, Zurbriggen, myself, and last, but not least, the "bearer," Rahim Ali by name. The latter — who has so far been Bruce's head servant — comes with us as our universal factotum. He is a native, Mahometan, age over fifty, but looks about thirty to my eye. He is a very excel lent cook, and understands a certain amount of English, particularly in the line of pro fanity, in which he uses new and weird com binations. We started at 2.40 p.m., and drove by a good road to Mansera Dawk Bungalow (about seventeen miles) where we arrived at 5.20 p.m. and stopped for the night. A " Dawk Bungalow" is, as far as I know, a purely Indian institution. At every con venient stage on a road a house is built by the Government for the accommodation of Srinagar. 7 travellers.

This is furnished with chairs, tables, &c, and the traveller can put up there for the night, cook his meals, &c, for which he has to pay a small charge, viz., 8 annas for using the bungalow for three hours or less, and i rupee for twenty-four hours. Some few things in the way of supplies can be obtained at fixed rates from the native who is in charge. Food is exceedingly cheap here ; a fowl is 6 to 8 annas ; a sheep is 4 to 6 rupees ; so that living costs very little. One rupee a head a day gives a man every thing he may desire in the way of food, and the food is very good too. At Mansera there is a curious old moraine, which Conway and I walked over and ex amined in the evening. I much regretted not having taken a shooting tool with me as a fine wild cat jumped up within a few feet of us, and would have been a certain bag if one had had even a revolver.

So far the road was, on the whole, fairly level, but very winding. From Mansera, however (which we left by the same ekkas at 8.20 a.m. on 29-3-92), it went up to a pass (10.50 a.m.) through a dense forest chiefly of pine ; the appearance of the hills and scenery being very much like that of the Black Forest in Germany. The pass is on the watershed on the west side of Khagan. Then the road descends rapidly to Garihabibulla, a village on the Kishan Ganga river about 3,400 feet above sea level by aneroid. The Dawk Bungalow, where we lunched (reached at 1 p.m.), is on the right bank of the river, the village being on the left bank. There is a fine bridge across. Here we discharged our ekkas, and engaged ten coolies as porters, to carry our personal luggage, leaving the mules to come by another route.

We started with the coolies at 3 p.m. ; crossed the bridge and went down the left bank of the stream for a long way — a long, stony walk much reminding one of parts of the Saas valley. Then the path ascends the Srinagar. 9 hills, and a small pass was reached at 5.55 p.m., height about 4,000 feet by aneroid. From the pass the path runs nearly level alonsf the hillside for a lonoish distance, and then there is a steep descent down to Dhomel, which is situated at the junction of the Kishen Ganga and Jhelam rivers. We reached the Dawk Bungalow there at 7.20 p.m., after crossing both rivers by suspen sion bridges of curious construction, supposed to be clue to the vagaries of an elec trical engineer. At Dhomel there is a very excellent Dawk Bungalow, where we stopped for the night. The next morning (Wednesday, 30-3-92) we engaged five ekkas ; there was trouble before we got under way, and it took much profanity and a little violence.

Finally we started off at 10 a.m. The ekkas were very rotten, and the drivers at first .somewhat inclined to be troublesome ; but that was soon stopped. From here the road winds up the valley, the river running below in a nullah, of which the sides are in places certainly over 1,000 feet high. A " nullah " or " nala " is a curious, and very characteristic feature of the country. It is simply a deep cutting in which there is, or has been, a river. The sides are either actually or approximately vertical ; sometimes the width is many times the height, or vice versa, or anywhere between. The greatest width I have seen at present is about one mile. The bottom of a nullah is approximately level, and they have a very curious look to the stranger. We arrived at Chakoti Dawk Bungalow at 5.30 p.m., and stopped there for the night.

We left at 6.45 a.m. the next morning (31-3-92) on the same ekkas. Three miles before Uri one ekka (with Zurbriggen) went off the road, rolled down over the embank ment, and there was a general upset. Zurbriggen was, luckily, not much damaged — only a few trifling scratches and bruises. The native driver escaped without Srinagar. 11 damage at the time, but suffered subsequent damage from us. The upper part of the ekka was smashed to smithereens ; but the wheels and the lower part of the frame held together, and so we managed to patch it up. Zurbriggen changed over into my ekka, and I, for the rest of the journey, went in the damaged one (which was not more uncomfortable than the complete article, that's im possible), and made the driver's life a misery to him. We reached Uri at io a.m., and had breakfast ; then on to Rampur (3 p.m.).

Here we intended to lunch, but there was a difficulty in getting supplies. Our bearer, by a process of banging the native official about, induced him ultimately to procure some ; but as this had occupied some time we thought it best to drive on, and so we did, arriving at Bara mulla at 6.45 p.m. Here the Jhelam is navigable, so we left our ekkas, and I was just thankful to get out of those wretched conveyances. Every joint of my body seemed to have got out of adjustment. Here we took two boats, which were to be our home for some little while ; indeed, they are so at present. These boats are very heavy, and of a perverse construction, for the bottom is curved lengthwise and flat crosswise. They reminded me of the rocking-horse of my youth. We had dinner on board, and then slept the sleep of the tired with great satisfaction.

We started next morning (1-4-92) at 8.45 a.m. The stream was very sluggish, and progress would have been very easy if it were not for the extraordinary build of our boats. As it is progression was slow, chiefly by towing and occasional punting, and was attended with a vast waste of energy. The native is peculiar ; he thinks that if he exerts his muscles considerably he is doing his best, and that with an utter disregard of how he applies his strength, and with curious Oriental perversity he of course applies it in almost the worst way possible. Towards noon we Srinagar. 13 began to enter the Walar lake ; the shores all round are very low, and it is difficult to say how far the lake extends. We crossed a corner of the lake, and in the afternoon we entered a canal, a short way up which we stopped for the night.

An early start was made on Saturday while we were still asleep. The canal soon narrowed exceedingly, and there was consequently a stronger current, particularly round the sides of our boats, as the canal was very shallow, and the section of our boat was nearly equal to that of the canal. The outside width of the canal was about four yards, and there were many very sharp curves in it, so getting our unwieldy tub along was very hard work. Zurbriggen and I lent assistance, and I took to bossing, so we managed to crawl ahead, but very slowly. Some of the curves of the canal were of such small radius that both ends of our boat stuck into the banks at once, and we had to break out pieces from the banks to enable us to proceed. At 9 a.m. we reached the spot where the canal joins the Jhelam river again — that is, the upper Jhelam river above the Walar lake.

The immediate junction is the very worst spot to get through on the whole way. I don't believe the natives would have got that boat through by now if we had not helped. The native rope for hauling is by no means reliable. Once when the decisive moment had arrived, and Zurbriggen and I were hauling like grim death, the rope parted, and back somersaults of an in voluntary description were the order of the day. It took us over half an hour to do the last dozen yards, but at last we got through, and then we had a very welcome breakfast. Up the river the towing, &c, was again of a comparatively easy character, and our progress till the afternoon was smooth and uneventful. At 5.15 p.m. a strongish gust of wind removed the thatching of our front boat ; the natives got vastly excited, and Srinagar. 15 the female portion os the crew started weep ing violently — why I don't know, as all the damage done was repaired in less than an hour, and only involved the expenditure of a few bits of straw rope.

Then we were off again, and arrived at our present stopping place at dusk. We are at the lower end of the town of Srinagar, and here we stop for the night. To-morrow we shall go up to a more convenient and sanitary place above the city, where to camp for some time while getting ready for another start. Srinagar, Thursday, April 7. ON Sunday (3-4-92) we left our camping-place at 6.30 a.m., and came slowly up through the town, turning up a side stream and arriving at a stopping place at 9 a.m. ; but in the afternoon we shifted to another, where we are now. On the way up through the town we were quite a procession, for we were accompanied by any number of native dealers in boats offering everything in creation. The per sistence of these natives is truly remarkable profanity affects them but little ; even Srinagar. 17 personal violence fails unless it is very forcibly applied.

Even as I am writing we are surrounded by a crowd of natives who are trying to sell us anything and every thing. We are here at Srinagar for some days to complete arrangements. We are all flourishing, and it seems to me that there could not be a more delightful way of spending a month or two than by pottering about in this neighbourhood. It is a very lovely spot. At first, however, till I got used to his ways and discovered his good points, I found the native dealer very objectionable. He is difficult to avoid. I begin to see the truth of the proverb which associates speech with a silver currency. The first day I was here I found a shady, grassy spot by the river bank, and settled down to write — and smoke — in great content. But very soon there came to me two natives, who spread bales of cloth around me, and conversed volubly in an unknown tongue.

They were followed almost immediately by three who had various odd chairs, who followed the example of the first comers. Next came a man in the leather-goods line, a couple of men with copper pots, and I don't know how many more. And all of them chattered away as if their very life depended on it. I first of all replied in polite English, but they did not understand. It is, however, curious to note that when my language ceased to be polite, though it retained its Anglo - Saxon character, they obviously understood — but they did not clear off. Ultimately I retreated on board our boat, and told our bearer to exterminate any natives who might turn up. In the course of the last few days, however, I have bought some things. The true Kashmir shawl is — alas ! — almost a thing of the past hardly any being made now ; and those that are made want millionaires to buy them.

An inferior imitation is made in large numbers, but it does not appeal to me, Srinagar. 19 The place is, however, a great one for fine silver and copper work. I bought a silver claret-jug, two splendid carved walnut tables with copper ornaments, some precious stones, and various oddments. The process of purchase was similar to the one I had found at Abbotabad, and it interested me very much to explore the New Bazaar — a most amusing place to do shopping in. It is a great square building with open courtyards in it, the building itself consisting of innumerable little houses in which the ground floor is usually devoted to manu facturing. The shop proper, where you look at the goods for sale, is generally on the first floor, and you have to go up some remarkably-constructed stairs to arrive there.

The main entrance of the bazaar is by stone steps leading up from the river, and I went there by boat. In fact, almost all important traffic is done on the river, and it is the centre of business. Mark Twain's lightning conductor man is a quiet and retiring individual compared to the native shopkeeper. As soon as I set foot on the lowest step in getting out of my boat, I was surrounded by a yelling crowd of native shopmen, each of them shouting out that he was the only honest man there — that he sold cheaper and better things than anybody else — that all the others were thieves and rogues, and such-like. It was really most interesting and amusing as well, though in one sense not pleasant — I mean the olfactory one. But I saw some very lovely specimens of work, and one can get them at a very cheap rate if one has sufficient patience to go on bargaining for hours for any single lot.

So far I have not reached bottom prices, though I have several times got things down to less than a fifth of the price originally asked for them ; but it is a very exhausting pro cess. All things of native manufacture are exceedingly cheap according to our notions. But then native labour, whether skilled or unskilled, is very cheap. It seems to be Srinagar. 21 paid at the rate of i^ to 4 annas per day.1 Some of the skilled workmanship is very remarkably good, but much is already being spoilt by bad attempts at European imita tions. The true native articles show for the most part a very considerable artistic taste, but the European imitations are truly hideous. The native is curious in his tastes when he gets on to unfamiliar articles. Our Ghurka soldiers, for instance, have all conceived a violent liking for certain red cotton handkerchiefs of mine — articles such as the British workman likes to carry when he puts on his extra Sunday attire, the cost thereof varying from 2|d. to 4fd.

If these Ghurkas behave very well I will present them with one apiece. How many thousand boats there are in and about Srinagar I cannot estimate, but the handling as far as I have noticed at present is very nearly as bad as it can 1 There are 16 annas to 1 rupee. In 1892 about 16 rupees = £1, so that 1 anna = about id. possibly be. The mechanical bump certainly does not seem to be developed about these natives — what pieces of machinery one sees are carefully constructed to give the minimum of result with the maximum of power ex pended. Our boat crew — or rather the crew of both our boats, as they are of joint ownership — consists of a sort of family party. The chief clan consists of three brothers — called respec tively Gofara, Esisa, and Subana — who look very much alike. They are all three well developed, fairly strong looking specimens, with faces expressive of considerably more intelligence than they possess — judging, at least, from the way they handle their boats.

Then there is the father of the family, called Jumma, a fine-looking old chap ; and his wife, who looks as if she were not descended from the Witch of Enclor, but that very lady herself. Then there is Mrs. Gofara and a younger sister, whether of Mrs. Gofara or of the clan I am unable to determine. She Srinagar. 23 is a girl of, I should think, fifteen ; rather nice-looking, at least when she is in a pleasant humour ; but when she is in a bad temper she looks, and I imagine talks, like a perfect little fiend. Then there is a little blind girl (about ten), and a boy-baby in arms with a very healthy lung development. The natives appear to object very strongly to my writing down the names of the female members of the crew. I cannot discover the reason for this superstition. Finally, there is little Dolda.