A Tramp's Wallet; stored by an English Goldsmith during his wanderings in Germany and France

Front matter

A TRAMP'S WALLET; SIOEED BV AN ENGLISH GOLDSMITH DUEIKG HIS Hankrinp in itrmwtg aitb Jfrantt, BY WILLIAM DUTHIE. DEDICATED, BY PERMISSION, TO CHARLES DICKENS, ESQ. LONDON: DAETON AND CO., 58, HOLBORN HILL. MDCCCLVIII. [ The right of Translation is reserved by the Author. ,] TO CHAELES DICKENS, ESQ., Œljis 3. oluirtis respectfully dedicated, IN GRATEFUL ACKNOWLEDGMENT OF HIS SYMPATHY AND ENCOURAGEMENT DURING THE PUBLICATION OF THE GREATER PORTION OF ITS CONTENTS AND AS A SLIGHT TRIBUTE OF ADMIRATION FOR HIS UNWEARYING LABOURS AS A PUBLIC WRITER, TO THE ADVANCEMENT OF THE WHOLE PEOPLE, BY HIS SINCERE ADMIRER, THE AUTHOE.

Preface

. During a stay of three years and a half in Germany and France, sometimes at work, sometimes tramping through the country, the Author collected a numher of facts and stray notes, which he has endeavoured in these pages to present to the public in a readable shape. Ofthe twenty-eight chapters contained in the volume, sixteen originally appeared in " Household Words." They are entitled The German Workman ; Hamburg to Lubeck ; Lubeck to Berlin ; Fair-time at Leipsic ; Down in a Silver Mine ; A Lift in a Cart ; The Turks' Cellar ; A Taste of Austrian Jails ; What my Landlord believed ; A Walk through a Mountain ; Cause and Effect ; The French Workman ; Licensed to Juggle ; Pere Panpan ; Some German Sundays ; and More Sundays Abroad. Several other chapters were published in a weekly newspaper ; and the remainder, together with the Introductory Narrative, appear in print for the first time.

For the careful and valuable revision of that portion of his book which has appeared in " Household Words," the Author here begs to express his sincere thanks; and to acknowledge, in particular, his obligation to some unknown collaborator, who, to the paper called " The French Workman," has added some valuable information. The desire of the Author in writing the Introductory Nar- VI

PREFACE.

. rative was to present to his readers a brief outline of his whole journey, and a summary of its results ; and to connect, so far as it was possible, the somewhat fragmentary contents of the body of the work. It was also hoped and believed that the statistical information there given, although of so humble a character, would be valuable as illustrative of the social condition of workmen in the countries to which they refer, and of a character hitherto rarely attempted. Written, as these chapters were, at intervals of time, and separately published, each paper must be taken as complete in itself; and, as they are separate incidents of one narrative, occasional repetitions occur, which could scarcely have been erased, now that they are collected together, without injuring the sense of the passage.

For that portion of the book which has appeared In print no apology will be expected ; and, with regard to the remainder, the Author has rather endeavoured to avoid censure than hoped to propitiate it. In conclusion, the Author must add, in order that he may not stand self-accused' of misleading his readers with regard to his personal position, that good fortune has so far favoured his own exertions, that, although still of the craft, he can no longer lay claim to the title of a Journeyman Goldsmith. It was while in that capacity that the greater part of the following pages were written : he cannot but believe that they may be of some practical utility ; and if, added to this, their perusal should afford to his readers some portion of that pleasure' which their composition yielded to him, his purpose will have been fully answered.

CONTENTS. INTRODUCTORY NARRATIVE. Page HAMBURG. — ON TEAMP TO BEELIN . . . i BEELIN AND LEIPSIC. — ON TEAMP TO VIENNA . . vii VIENNA . . . . . .XV ON TEAMP TO PABIS. . . . . . XXlii PAEIS . .... XXJX Chapter I. HAMBUEG . . . . . 1 II. ALTONA. — A POET'S GBAVE. — A DANISH HAEVEST- HOME . . . . .6 III. "MAGNIFICENCE." — AT CHUECH. — THE LAST HEADS- MAN . . . . . 9 IV. WOEE1MEN IN HAMBUEG . . .15 V. PLATS AND PICCADILLOES. — " HAMLET " IN GEBMAN . 19 VI. THE GEEMAN WOBKMAN . . 24 VII. HAMBUEG TO LUBECK . . . .36 VIII. LUBECK TO BEELIN . . 41 IX. BEELIN. — OUE HEBBEBGE . . .51 X. A STEEET IN BEELIN . . ... 56 XI. POLICE AND PEOPLE . . . .62 XII. THE KEEUTZBEEG. — A PEUSSIAN SUPPEE AND CAEOUSE . . . 65 XIII. FAIE-TIME AT LEIPSIC . . . .70 XIV. DOWN IN A SILVEE MINE . . 76 XV. A LIFT IN A CAET . . . .85 XVI.

THE tubes' CELLAB . . . . CONTENTS. Chapter Page XVII. A TASTE OF AUSTBIAN JAILS . . 99 XVIII. WHAT MY LANDLORD BELIEVED . . . IOS XIX. AN EXECUTION IN VIENNA . . . 113 XX. A JAIL EPISODE . . . 116 XXI. A WALK THEOUGH A MOUNTAIN . . 121 XXII. CAUSE AND EFFECT ' . . . 130 XXIII. GEEECE AND HEE DELIVEEEE . . . 137 XXIV. THE FBENCH WOEKMAN . . . . 139 XXV. LICENSED TO JUGGLE . . . 149 XXVI. PEEE PANPAN . . . . . 152 XXVII. SOME GEEMAN SUNDAYS . . . 162 XXVIII. MOBE SUNDAYS ABEOAD . . . . A TRAMP'S WALLET. INTRODUCTOEY NARRATIVE. HAMBUBG. — ON TEAMP TO BERLIN. There have appeared from time to time, in public print, sorrowful recitals of journeys attempted by English workmen in foreign countries, with no better result than the utter failure of the resources of the adventurous traveller, and his return homeward by the aid of private charity or the good offices of his consul.

It is precisely because the travels about to be here narrated were finan cially a success, being prosecuted throughout hy means of the wages earned during their progress, that it is thought they may be worthy of publication ; not that it is imagined many such examples may not he found, hut because success in such an undertaking has not hitherto appeared so often before the public as failure. This narrative is necessarily a personal one ; and as it is my especial object in this place to present these foreign rambles in a pecuniary point of view, I trust I shall not be misunderstood in stating minute items of receipt and expenditure, as such details, however trivial they may appear, are of vital importance in estimating the com parative position of the foreign and the English workman. There was more than one cause which prompted me to seek my fortune abroad ; but it is sufficient here to state, that I had worked in the company of Germans, and had thus become interested in their country, and, as great depression prevailed at the time among the goldsmiths in London, I provided myself with a letter of introduction to a working jeweller in Hamburg, and prepared to start for this outpost of the great German continent.

My whole B HAMBURG. — ON TEAMP TO BERLIN. II capital amounted to five pounds sterling ; and, armed with a passport from the- Hanseatic consul, and provided with an extra suit of clothes, a few books, and some creature comforts, I embarked for my destina tion on board the " Glory," a trading schooner, then lying in Shadwell basin. I paid thirty shillings for my passage, including provisions, and could have slept in the cabin, and fared with the captain, for two pounds, hut in the weak state of my finances, considered it only prudent to content myself with sailor's beef and biscuit, and a hard bulk and coil of ropes for my bed. After, to me, a rough sea and river passage of eight days, marked by no greater incidents than belonged to the vicissitudes of the weather, we crossed the sand-bar at the mouth of the Elbe, and were soon safe at our moorings in the outer harbour of Hamburg.

It was Sunday morning ; paddled on shore in the ship's boat, I found myself in a town utterly strange to me, armed only with a letter addressed to a person with whom I could not converse, and written in a language I did not understand. My chief comforts were three sovereigns, carefully wrapped in a piece of cotton print, and deposited in my fob. In the course of a ramble through the town, I discovered an English hotel, and was there happy in making the acquaintance of a needle-maker of Redditch, Worcestershire, who at once offered to be my interpreter and guide in search of employment. We began our peregrinations on the morrow, and I was first introduced to the only English cabinet-maker established in Hamburg, who, however, did not receive our visit cheerfully. He drew a rueful picture of trade generally, but more especially of his own.

The hours of labour were long, he said ; the work was hard, and the wages con temptible. He concluded by assuring me that I had been very ill advised to come there, and that the best course I could pursue was to take the first ship home again. As I was not yet inclined to follow this doleful piece of advice, we continued our enquiries. In a short time I was shaking hands with the jeweller to whom my letter of introduction was addressed ; and before another hour had elapsed, acting under his instructions, I had the gratification of knowing that I was " in work," and, best of all, under an employer who spoke the Enghsh, French, and German languages with equal facility. Thus, in ten days from leaving England, eight of which were spent on the passage, I had found both friends and employ ment in a foreign city, and now that my greatest source of anxiety HAMBURG. — ON TRAMP TO BERLIN.

III for the future was removed, felt thoroughly independent and at my ease. My companions in the workshop were a quiet Dane who spoke German, and a young Frenchman, whom I will call Alcibiade, who had been in London, and acquired a smattering of English. We worked twelve hours a day, commencing at six o'clock in the morn ing — the whole city was up and busy at that hour — and kept on till seven in the evening. Thirteen hours were thus spent in the work shop, one of which was given to meals. The practice of boarding the workmen is universal in Hamburg, and we therefore fared at the table of our " principal," and were amply and well provided for. During the first week of my stay in Hamburg, I lodged at an humble English hotel, where I paid at the rate of ten marks a week for bed and board, a sum equal to eleven shillings and eightpence.

Reasonable as this may appear, it was beyond my resources, and would indeed have been a positive extravagance under the circumstances. Moreover, the arrangements of the workshop forbade it. My next lodging was at a German hotel, where I slept in a little cupboard which hung over a black, slug gish canal, and was without stove or fire-place. The cost of this chamber was five marks a month, or scarcely one shilling and six pence a week. These expenses will appear paltry and insignificant, till compared with the amount of wages received, when it will be apparent that boarding and lodging in an English hotel at eleven shillings and odd pence a week, was a monstrous extrava gance ; and that even an apartment in a German gasthaus, at five marks a month, was more than the slender pittance received would reasonably bear.

Alcibiade, who, besides being an expert work man, was an excellent modeller and draughtsman, received seven marks a week, with board and lodging, or . eight shillings weekly in positive cash. Peterkin the Dane, who was yet a novice, was in the receipt of four marks a week, and paid for his own lodg ing — weekly pay, four shillings and eightpence. My own wages were seven marks a week and board, while I paid for my own lodging ; and when, upon the departure of Alcibiade for Berlin, I took possession of his bedroom — a mere box without a window — a deduction of one mark was made as an equivalent. I thus received in wages six marks ; lodging may be reckoned at one, and hoard at five marks a week — total, twelve marks; which will yield in English money the magnificent sum of fourteen shillings. b HAMBUEG. — ON TEAMP TO BERLIN.

In order to contrast these figures more fully with the pay of our English artisans, it will be necessary to mention some further ex penses to which the workman in England is not liable, or in which the commercial pre-eminence of his country gives him a marked advantage. With respect to the former, as the employer in many cases furnishes only the ruder and less portable machinery of the workshop, the workman has, to a certain extent, to provide his own tools ; and in regard to the latter, clothing in general, and more especially cotton, woollen, and worsted articles of apparel, are nearly as costly as in London. Of the social position of the workmen, and the rules of the trade Guilds, I have endeavoured to treat under the head of " The Geeman Workman ;" but there are some matters there omitted which may be worthy of mention.

I was forcibly struck, as well in Hamburg as in other towns and cities of Germany, by the almost total want of that cheap serial literature which is so marked a feature of popular education in England. There was, indeed, a penny magazine published in Leipsic, after the type of the original periodical of the Society for the Diffusion of Useful Knowledge ; but it found no purchasers among any of my acquaintances, and was only to he seen, with a few other literary magazines, at the better sort of eating and coffee-houses. The work men were gay, and fond of amusement, but not recklessly so. They were passionately fond of music, and formed little clubs among themselves for the practice of choral singing. There was shown no want of respect for the Church and its institutions, quite the reverse; and I well remember that we were gratified with a holiday on a day set apart by the authorities for the public confirmation of the youths about to be apprenticed, and the whole ceremonial of which wore an imposing and solemn character.

The conscription was, I believe, made also on that day. With respect to the relation between employers and employed, there existed a degree of amia bility and consideration for which we look too often in vain iu Eng land, while it must also he confessed that every mark of respect was rigorously exacted by the master, and that his affability towards the workmen sometimes assumed the character of an affectionate condescension towards 'a favoured menial. I did not personally know any one married journeyman in Hamburg ; but there was one jeweller who had entered into the silken bonds of wedlock, and who was pointed out to me with a shrug of the shoulder and a shake of the head, as a doomed mortal. HAMBUEG. — ON TEAMP TO BERLIN. V It might be imagined that as the city of Hamburg claims the title of "free," such assumed liberty might extend to its social institutions, as well as to its port and navigation.

Indeed, the worthy citizens are under some such delusion themselves, and boast of immunities, and liberalities of government, such as would place them at the head of the German nation. It would be hard to know in what they consist. The passport system is enforced with all its rigours and impertinences ; an annual conscription is taken of its inhabitants, and the more solvent of them perform military service (this may perhaps he considered a liberty), as a national guard, with the additional luxury of providing their own weapons and equip ments. Moreover, they were, at the time I write of, called upon to render certain services in case of an outbreak of fire : one contri buting a bucket, another a rope, and a third a ladder ; none of which articles, as might easily he imagined, were forthcoming when most wanted.

The city tolls were heavy, and stringently levied, and, what more nearly concerned the exercise of public liberty and private convenience, the city gates were nominally closed at a certain hour in the evening, varied according to the season of the year, and were only to he passed after the appointed period by the payment of a toll. It was -curious to see the people hurrying towards the Jacob Thor on a Sunday evening as the hour of closing approached, jostling and mobbing each other in their endeavours to escape the human poll tax. But men are free, or in fetters, only by comparison ; and although the rule of the senate of Hamburg, when contrasted with British government, can scarcely be called a liberal one, there is little doubt that identical laws are in Hamburg less stringently carried out than in other and most parts of the great German continent.

Seven months' stay in Hamburg found me eager to commence the march into Germany, which I had long meditated. Five months had already elapsed since Alcibiade, my French fellow workman, had departed for Berlin (paying eight dollars for the journey hy post), and he had never written to inform me of his for tunes. I was resolved to follow him, and, if possible, to seek him out, for we were already sworn friends ; but my finances would only allowof a journey on foot. During twenty-eightweeks of employment in Hamburg, I had received two hundred and three marks banco in wages, which would yield, in round numbers, twelve pounds sterling, or exactly an average receipt of five shUlings per week. Against this sum were to be placed : expenses for tools, five shillings and VI HAMBURG. — ON TEAMP TO BEBLIN. sixpence; trade society and police, five shillings and tenpence; clothing and washing, three pounds, one shilling and twopence ; and rent and extra hoard, one pound seven shillings.

Seventeen visits to theatres at prices ranging from two shillings to sevenpence amounted to sixteen shillings and sixpence, making a total of five pounds sixteen shillings. The surplus of six pounds four shillings had been further reduced, hy outlay in necessities or indul gences, as the reader may assume according to his fancy, to thirty marks banco. With this sum of thirty-five shUlings in English money, and consisting of two Dutch ducats and five Prussian dollars, I started to tramp the two hundred miles between Hamburg and Berlin. As a matter of explanation it may be stated that, during a residence of seven months in Hamburg, I had acquired enough of the German language to trust myself alone in the country. Under the impression that I might be required to set to work in any town on my route, like any travelling tinker, I had packed in my knapsack my best scoopers and an upright drillstock ; and these tools, while they added to its weight, presented so many obdurate points of resistance to my back.

Stowed within the knapsack were an extra suit, two changes of linen, a few books, a flute, and a pair of boots. It weighed twenty-eight pounds. My remaining personal property was safely packed in a trunk, and left in the hands of a friend, to be forwarded by waggon as soon as my resting place should he determined. I have only to deal in this place with the statistics of my first tramp. The distance was lessened sixty mdes by taking the eilwagen from Wusterhausen to Berlin, and nine days in all were spent upon the road. My total expenses, including the dollar (three shdlings) for coach fare, amounted to eighteen shillings, or an average of two shillings a-day. Of this sum I may parti cularise the cost of the straw-litter and early cup of coffee at the outset of the journey, twopence ; at Lubeck, where I lodged re spectably for one night, the bill was two shdlings ; at Schonefeld, twopence halfpenny ; a lodging, and hoard for two nights and a day at Schwerin in a " grand hotel," but faring with the servants, cost one shilling and ninepence ; at Ludwigslust, a comfortable bed after a grand supper with the carpenters at their house of call, was charged one shilling and sevenpence ; and at Perleberg, where I lodged superbly, the cost was sixteen sdver groschens, or a fraction over one shilling and sixpence.

Against this I have to place the trade gift of two shillings at HAMBURG. — ON TRAMP TO BERLIN. VII Lubeck, being the whole contents of their cash box, and which was kindly forced upon me. At Schonefeld I was urged by the masons to demand the usual "geschenk" from the only jeweller iu the village. "Why," exclaimed the landlord, enthusiastically, "if you only get a penny, it will buy you a glass of beer ! " I overcame the temptation. BERLIN AND LEIPSIC. — ON TRAMP TO VIENNA. I was less fortunate in the search for work in Berlin than I had been in Hamburg. Having started on my travels too early in the year, I paid the penalty of my rashness. My guide into Berlin was a glovemaker, whose acquaintance I had made upon the road, and through whom, curiously enough, I succeeded iu discovering my Parisian friend Alcibiade, the first object of my search.

Alcibiade, eccentric, but frank and generous, received me like a brother. There was no employment to be obtained in Berlin, or assuredly he would have ferreted it out ; more especially as in the search he had the assistance of one of those philologicial curiosities met with in Germany more often than in any other country, a school-teacher, who seemed to have any number of foreign languages glibly at the end of his tongue. I stayed a week in Berlin, sleeping at the Herberge in the Schuster Gasse, described in the body of this work ; and when forced at length to depart, Alcibiade pressed four dollars upon me as a loan, to help me ou my further wanderings. It must be remembered that my stock was reduced to seventeen shdlings on my arrival at Berlin, and as my expenses in this capital, during a week's vaiu search for employment, amounted to nine shillings, I was but indifferently provided.

Under these circumstances I asserted my claim to the trade geschenk, and, having fulfilled all the conditions of a tramp unable to find work, received from the Guild twenty silver groschens, or two shillings. Leipsic was my natural destination, and thither I proceeded by railway, paying two dollars eight groschens for the transit in an open carriage. This would give seven shillings in English money. The journey occupied about twelve hours, and although the average speed through the Prussian territory was slow, no sooner did we come upon Saxon ground at the frontier town of Kothen, than we spun along over the sandy waste with a rapidity which reminded one of BERLIN AND LEIPZIC — ON TEAMP TO VIENNA. VIII a trip on an English railway. It was already dark when the train reached Leipsic, and in the drizzling rain I wandered round the city ditch and rampart, unknowing where to find a lodging.

At length, directed hy a stranger to a trade herberge in the Kleine Kirche Hos, after some demur on account of my not belonging to the proper craft, I was admitted to a sort of out-house, paved with red bricks, and allowed a bed for the night. On the morrow I presented a letter of recommendation, from my good genius Alcibiade, to one of the principal jewellers in the city, and felt inexpressibly happy on being at once taken into employment. I spent two delightful months in Leipsic. My fortnight's ramble, with its dis comforts and anxieties, had given me a desire for rest, and in the hustling town, (it was the Easter fair time), skirted by its fringe of garden, and among its pleasant, good-natured inhabitants, the time sped happily on. The pay was better than in Hamburg, but the living worse.

My wages were four dollars — twelve shdlings per week — and board and lodging. I slept in the same room with my one fellow workman and an apprentice. It was light, and scrupulously clean, but had the single disadvantage of being so low in the ceiling, that one could not stand upright in it. Saxony has the unenviable distinction of being the country the worst fed in Germany. I had no prejudice against Saxon fare upon my arrival in Leipsic, but found, after a fortnight's trial, that I could not possibly endure its unvarying boiled fresh heef, excessively insipid, with no other accompaniment than various kinds of beans stewed into a sort of porridge. Potato dumplings were a luxury with us. I am afraid I seriously offended my worthy " principal," on pleading my inability to persist in this kind of training.

But he acquiesced in the desire to hoard mvself, and generously made the additional payment of one dollar sixteen groschens, or five shillings per week, for the purpose. I found no difficulty in tracing out a " restauration," the proprietor of which readily undertook to fur nish one principal meal per diem for seventeen silver groschens, that is, one shilling and eightpence halfpenny per week, paid in advance. Each dinner cost, therefore, a fraction less than three pence. With the remainder of the allowance it was easy to pur chase a simple supper, and even some small luxuries now and then. The dinners, although certainly not sumptuous, were wholesome, and infinitely more relishing than the fresh beef and heans of the BERLIN AND LEIPZIC— ON TRAMP TO VIENNA. IX ** principal's " table ; while there was a relief in quitting the work shop for a while, to descend the steep wooden staircase leading from the street into the cellar, which formed the dining-room of the eating-house.

The great Easter fair had just commenced as I reached Leipsic, and with its termination came my stay in the city also to an end. The work was exhausted. I had luxuriated in a few brilliants and the old Polish roBe-diamonds, and had descended to mounting a mon strous meerschaum pipe in silver. But now there was nothing left but the turquoises and Bohemian garnets, set in millegriffes, and the Herr shook his head, and decided that they would not pay ; so I received notice to leave in a fortnight. During this period of six weeks, my receipts in wages were six-and-twenty Prussian dollars, or three pounds eighteen shillings, which would allow an average of eleven shillings per week with board and lodging. Of expenses incurred there were : for Guild and police, eightpence ; and cloth ing and washing, fourteen shillings.

The Leipsicers have an ugly trick of doubling the prices of the theatre during the fair time, so that my expenditure on that head was nil. My trunk, forwarded from Hamburg in fourteen days, and weighing seventy pounds, cost three shdlings in the transit, including sixpence for city toll. After a vain search for further employment in Leipsic, and a dis appointment of obtaining a situation in Altenburg, there appeared nothing before me hut a toilsome march through Dresden to Vienna, with little hope of finding occupation by the way, and scarcely more than twenty shillings in my pocket. At this crisis there came a welcome letter from Alcibiade, with the tidings that certain em ployment, for at least two months, awaited me in Berlin. This was pleasant news indeed ; and the Herr entered so fully into the necessity of seizing this golden opportunity, that he kindly released me from a day's labor, that I might have full time to make my prepa rations.

One would naturally suppose that a few hours would suffice to pack my little stores and to depart ; but there were the Gudd regulations to fulfil, the railway officials to be waited on, and the police to satisfy. The last-named gentlemen would not consent to vise my passport till I should produce my railway ticket, as a proof of my intention to go ; while the railway officials doubted the propriety of issuing a ticket till I had received the authority of the police for my departure. Here was a case of daggers — a dead lock ; but the railway was obliged to cede the ground, and I departed in X BERLIN AND LEIPZIC. — ON TEAMP TO VIENNA. peace. As I was to start at six in the morning, the Herr rose earlier than was his wont, prepared for me with his own hands a cup of hot coffee, kissed me on both cheeks, and wished me God speed.

My stay in Berlin was limited to six weeks. It would have been longer, but that Alcibiade had set his heart upon tramping to Vienna at the end of that period, and I was pledged to accompany him. We worked together at one of the court jewellers. Alci biade stood in high favour, and received in wages thirty dollars per calendar month, or an average rate of twenty-two shillings and sixpence a week. My own wages were fixed at twenty-four dollars a month to begin with, or eighteen shillings a week ; but I received ten dollars for the last ten days of my engagement, which brought me on a level with my Parisian friend. These were, I believe, high wages. We worked twelve hours a day. The city of Berlin had outgrown the feudal usages of Hamburg and Leipsic, and we were no longer lodged under the same roof with the Herr, nor humbly ate at his table.