Travels in Western Africa in 1845 and 1846: comprising a journey through the kingdom of Dabomey, etc

Preface

. In presenting the following Work to the public, it may be deemed proper that I should preface it by giving some account of my previous career, and of the reasons and circumstances which led to my Travels in Western Africa. I was born in the year 1805, of humble parentage, on the farm of Culdoch, near Kirk cudbright, in North Britain. I had, at a very early period, a strong predilection for a military life, being of robust health and an athletic frame. In 1822 I therefore enlisted in the First Regiment of Life Guards, the discipline and appearance of which are, I may say, univer sally admired. During the hours not devoted

PREFACE.

. to military duties, I applied myself to the cultivation of the art of drawing and painting, in which I attained some proficiency, and acquired also considerable knowledge of mechanics, all of which I found of great service to me when I afterwards became a traveller. After serving sixteen years in this distinguished regiment, I felt anxious for a field of greater enterprise, and therefore obtained my discharge, on the conditions of the late good conduct war rant, early in 1839. In consequence of meri torious service, I obtained the appointment of master-at-arms in the late expedition to the Niger. In this unfortunate enterprise, I narrowly escaped the melancholy fate of so many of my brave and talented countrymen. Of upwards of three hundred, not more than five escaped ! When at Egga, on the Niger, I volun teered to proceed up that river, with a few natives only ; but, on account of the increasing sickness of the Europeans, the project was abandoned. Before the Albert, indeed, had descended the

PREFACE.

. V Niger nearly all of them were either attacked by the sever or were dead ! The season was declared by the natives themselves to be par ticularly fatal, even to them. On my arrival at Fernando Po, I was myself attacked with fever, which so seriously affected a wound that I had previously received in my leg,* that gangrene commenced, and was only checked by the application of a powerful acid, which destroyed the part affected. At this time my sufferings were extreme ; part of both bones of my leg was entirely denuded of flesh a little above the ankle-bone. I strongly desired to have the diseased limb amputated, but having already lost much blood, and the climate of Fernando Po being unfavourable to such operations, (in fact, it was considered that it might prove fatal,) my medical friends, Drs.

M' William and Thompson, * I was wounded at the Cape de Verd Islands by the natives, while aiding my men, upon whom they were about to make a murderous attack. On retreating, one of them threw a poisoned arrow at me, which I parried from my face and body, but which struck my leg.

PREFACE.

. VI promised to perform it when I should arrive a< Ascension. The climate of that island is much superior to any other on the coast of Africa. Fortunately, by the unremitting attention of the medical officers, and the kindness of Commander Fishbourne, my wound and my general health much improved during my stay tliere. From its serious nature, however, I returned to England in an emaciated condition. Having naturally a very robust constitution, I rapidly recovered ; but my limb never entirely regained its former strength. This, however, did not prevent me from offering my services to the Royal Geographical Society, to proceed to Africa and penetrate to the Kong Mountains from the West Coast, the narrative of which journey I now have the pleasure of submitting to the reader. I ought to add that the Society provided me with the necessary instruments and instructions ; and that the Lords of the Admiralty directed that I should have a free passage to Cape Coast. The country I

PREFACE.

. VII traversed had been hitherto untrodden by any European traveller, and reached as far as 13° 6' North latitude, and 1° 3' East longitude. In conclusion, I beg to state, that the Royal Geographical Society and several other gentle men liberally contributed funds in aid of my enterprise, for which I cherish the warmest feelings of gratitude. JOHN DUNCAN. Feltham Hill, August, 1847. CONTENTS OF VOL. I.

Chapter I

Departure-— Arrival at Tangiers — Description of the Town — Market — Price of Provisions — Method of Storing Grain — Inhabitants — Tbe Jews — A Jewish Dwelling — Tbe Moors— Fruits and Flowers — Desolate State of the Town— Moorish Market-women — Gibraltar — Ascend to the Highest Point— A Pic-nic aud an agreeable Reconnoitre — Cleanliness of the Inhabitants — Arrival at the Gambia — Bathurst — The Mandmgos — Massacre of the Crew of the Margaret — Encounter of the Crew of the Cour iir with Pirates — Sierra Leone — Dr. Ferguson — Mr. Oldfield, his Hospitality— Give Chase to a supposed Slaver — ■ Cape Coast — Governor Hill — Cape Coast Castle . . paoe 1

Chapter II

Attacked by Fever — Death of my Servant — Mr. Hutton — Buildings in Progress by him — Indolence of the Natives — Cheapness of Living — The Fantees— Their Superstition — Description of their Idol or Fetish — Their Customs or Holidays — Native Music — Runi, their favourite Liquor— Proceedings on ion of a Death — Mode of Burial — The King's Custom or Holiday — Character of the King— My Reception by his Majesty — Comparatively neglected by the British Government — Fetish Houses— Native Funerals — Want of Natural Affection — The Yam Custom — The Fantees, the -worst of the African Tribes — Their Power of Imitation — Wild Animals — The Patakoo — Granite and Sandstone — The Dutch Settlement of Elmina — A fine Field for Botanists — State of Agriculture — Excessive Heat — Message to the King of Ashantee — Cattle — Artizaus much wanted — Murder of an Ashantee Woman 22 VOL. I. b X CONTENTS.

Chapter III

Annamaboc— State os the Fort — Indolence of the Natives, and Difficulty in procuring Labourers — Domestic Slavery -Missionary Schools — Want of Education in the Useful Arts — Hints on ject — Vegetables and Fruite — Tot Annamaboe— Soil — Natives — Reception of me by the King, and Conversation with him— Mr. Brewe — Mr. Parker— Excessive Heat — Little Cromantine. its impregnable Situation— The Fort— Cromantine — The Market-place — Extraordinary Tradition— Wonderful Dwarf— An Adventure— Accra— Wesleyan Missionaries — Natives — their Habitations — Wives and Slaves — Situation of the Town, and Soil 39

Chapter IV

Strange Articles of Food— Native Cookery— The River Amissa — Reception by the Caboceer ot* Amissa— Soil, Fruits, &c. — An Adventure— Visit from a Hyena — The River Anaqua — Arsafah— Soil, Fruits, &c. — Beautiful Birds— Moors and Arabs here — Cattle — Return to Cape Coast — Hospitable Reception there — Invitation from the King of Ashantee — My Reply — Visit the Neighbourhood of Cape Coast — Coffee Plantations— Indolence of the Natives — The Town of Napoleon — Eyau A wkwano— Fruits Growing Spontaneously — Bad Roads — Singular Mode of Carrying Timber— Cotton Trees- -The Dwarf Cotton Shrub — Scene ofa Sanguinary Battle — Djewkwa — Native Houses— Au Intoxicated Caboceer — The Cal. -■nts — Account cf him — Return to Cape Coast— Si Whydah— Winnebah -Method of Curing Fish— Natives— Stock — Neighbouring Country — Tbe Devil's Hill — Soil— Yanwin (samphire) — The River Jensu— Beautiful Birds— The Kingfisher 58

Chapter V

Laws —Roguery ofthe Natives; White Men fair Game- Superstition — Fetish-houses — Colour, Habits, &c. of the Na tives — Prevalence of Drunkenness — Disgusting Neglect — Fashion in Shaving — Tally System — Population — Accra — Mr. Bannerman and his Hospitality— Danish Accra, partly De molished — Occasion of this— Attempt to assassinate the Governor-English Accra, its Trade much reduced by Compe tition with Americans— Currency — Merchants' Houses— Fruits CONTENTS. XI and Flowers — The Coromantine Apple — Natives most expert Thieves — Population — Circumcision — Mode of Carrying Chil dren—Sleep in tho Open Air— Manufactures— Fish— Difficult Landing— Salt Lake— Soil — Gaming and Drinking— Population of English Accra— Stock— Cruel Treatment of Horses— Want of Natural Affection— Sail for Ahguay— Boarded by an English Brig — Mr. Hutton's Factory at Ahguay — A Drunken Caboceer — His Dress and Attendants — A Principal Fetish-woman, her Dress — Dance performed by her — Natives of Ahguay—Slave merchants — Cotton and Indigo — Markets — Treatment of Slaves — Characteristics of Africans — Fish — Method of Dressing the Crab— Alligators— Alligator-hunt— Plants and Fruits— The Velvet-Tamarind— Popoe— Mr. Lawson, a Native Merchant — Introduction to hi- Wives— Merchants, their Mode of Living — Slave-Trade — Population — Manufactures — Gaming and Drinking — Kankie — M. de Suza's Slave Establishment— His House — His Domestic Slaves — Noisy Reception by the Caboceer — Treatment of Slaves 78

Chapter VI

Gragapojee — Extensive Market at— Native Produce and European Manufactures — Popoe Beads, their Value; probable Origin of — Houses — Situation aud Soil of Gregapojee — Fish — Alligators — Population — Return to Ahguay, and thence to Whydah — Toll-house — Fish-trap — Travelling Canoe — Beautiful Scenery of the Lagoon — Oysters growing to Trees — Old Ferryman— Gibbets of three Criminals — Murder committed by them — The English Fort at Whydah — Character of M. de Suza — Treatment of Slaves — Hints with reference to this odious Traffic — Price of Slaves— Slave Hunts — Necessity for Education — Cruelty in the Shipment of Slaves — Visit to Avoga — Account of him — Reception by him — Mode of Riding — Bad Road — Reason for not Repairing it — Market at Whydah — Native Manufactures, &e. — Duties imposed by the King of Dahomey— His Enormous Revenue — Head Money — System of Government — Severe Laws, and their Result — Paganism — Abject Superstition of the Natives — Dangerous to show Contempt for their Fetish— Anniversary Offerings for departed Friends — Usual Termination of such Festivals — Snake Worship — Houses built to contain them — The Snake Lizard — The Field-Lizard— The House-Lizard — Vampire Bats . . . CONTENTS. XII

Chapter VII

Locusts — The Winged Ant — Its Destructive Nature — Horse attacked hy them — Their Ingenuity in Building — Stock Want of Mechanics — Portuguese Whydah — Emigrant Sierra Leone — Their Deplorable Condition — English at the Fort of Whydah — Military Resources of Dahomey — Polygamy — Mode of Shipping Slaves — Brutality on these occasions — Porto Sogoora — Mr. Lawson's Slaves — Greejee — Toll imposed there — Zahlivay — Yakasgo — Badaguay — The Cabbage Palm-tree — Wooded Scenery — The Palm-tree — Exploring Visit to the Haho— Misfortunes of Ithay Botho, Capt. Clapperton's Servant — Adventures — Curiosity of the Natives — Podefo and its Market — Alligators — My Crew mutiny from fear — Hippopotami — Superstition of the Natives — A party of Fishermen, and their Fish-traps— Base Conduct of the Fishermen — My Punishment of them and my Crew , 132

Chapter VIII

My lonely Situation — Akwoaay, its Population, &c. — Kind Reception by the Gadadoo — Native House of two Stories — Gigantic Cotton-tree — Etay, a Vegetable of the Yam 1 1 Voracity ofthe Natives — Soil, Manufactures, &c. of Akwoaay — Natives of Porto Sogoora — Visit of the Caboceer— Mode of :1 ug Crabs— Great Heat — Visit from Native Women — Mr. Lawson of Popoe— Character of the Natives — Attempt at Murder — Nocturnal Visit— Superstition— Vicinity of a Fetish-house— Flocks oi Monkeys— The Monkey, an article of Food — greeable Situation— Cravings of Hunger— Visit to the jee Market — An Alligator killed — Usual Notice to the Authorities on such occasions — Tho Alligator used as Food Cruelty of the Natives to the Horse— Return to Whydah— Bad Conduct of my Canoemen — Adventures — Arrival at Whydah— Preparations for my Journey to Abomey— Country around Whydah — Farms — Emigrants from Sierra Leone Slave-deal igity of the King of Dahomey— Soil of Whydah— Cnrn-mill— Ferns, Vegetables, Fruits, &c* . . CONTENTS. XIII

Chapter IX

Manufacture of Salt— Death of Dr. M'Hardy— Falling Stars- Manioc, the Food of the Slaves — Crops — Mode of storing Grain —Superstition — Hospitality of Don Francisco de Suza — A Tornado — Slave Auctions — Punishment for killing Fetish Snakes — Slaughter of Dogs, &c. — Dogs used as Food— An English Dog rescued — Thievish Propensities of the Natives — Falling Stars — Murder of two Wives— Adjito — A heavy Tornado — Robbed by my Servant — American Brig sold to Slave Merchants— Shipment of Slaves— Sharks — Death caused by one — Preparations for my Journey to the Kong Mountains — M. de Suza's Liberality — His Opinion of Englishmen . . pace 190

Chapter X

Set out on my Journey for Abomey — Savay — Torree — My wretched Condition— Azoway — Parasitical Plants — Aladda — Cotton tree — Atoogo — Assewhee — Havee — A Butterfly-School — Whyboe — Construction of the Houses — Native Customs — Manufactures — African Character generally — Population of Whyboe — Akpway — An extensive Swamp — Ahgrimmah — Togbadoe — Scenery — Soil — Swarm of Locusts .... 205

Chapter XI

Canamina, its Population — Adawie — Preparations for entering the Capital— Abomey — My hospitable Reception — Visit from ho, the Prime Minister — Message from the King — The Palace — The Market-place — Dead Bodies of Criminals hung up — My Reception by his Majesty — Ceremony on Introduction — Conversation with the King— Perform the Sword Exercise before him — His Approbation — Troops of Female Soldiers — The King's Person — Ceremony of the Introduction of Military Officers — Dress of the Female Soldiers — Introduced to the King's Chiefs — Visits —The King's Staff — Review of Native Troops — Feigned Attack on a Town — The King's Soldier-wives — Ashantee Prince — His Majesty's Opinion of England aud the English — The vain Boasting of the Ashantee Prince silenced by the King — Principal Officers— The Dahoman Women formidable Soldiers CONTENTS.

Chapter XII

Visit to the King at his Palace — Description of it — Reception by his Majesty— Gaudy Dress of the Attendants — Masks, Ornaments, &e. Occasion of the War between the Mahees and Dahomans, and its Ri . performed by his Majesty — Another Review i — Execution of Four Traitors— Hoi ri1 k Occurrenc ing office of tbe Blood-drin?:. The King's Mother and Grandmother — Dance performed by them — une of the King's Favourite Wives 1 perform Jew's Harp — I dauce with his Majesty — His Message to the Queen of England — Ridiculous Cn a it of Appeal established at Abomey— Character ofthe King — Domestic Slavery - A Slave-hunt — .Military Distinctions — Want of N Affection in the Natives— Roguery of mj Servant — Tbe King's Commissions to me — .Vn Interesting Incident — Murd Attack on me by my Servant Inquiry into the Occurrence - My Servant compelled to accompany me TEU XIII.

Departure for the Kong Mountains —My Dahoman Guards and their several Duties — The King's Wife — Neighbouring KroomB — Soil and Aspect of the Country — Varied Scenery — Cs Bobay — Illness of my Servant — Immense Blocks of Ora Custom-house — Duties imposed— Milder Lai -.bed — Dtheno — Travelling Traders — The Azowah — Destructi the Shea Butter-tree — Its Manufacture declared to be lawful — Description of this Tree — Immense Mountains — Ruins of Managlwa — Destruction of that Town by the Da Beautiful Scenery — Markets — Setta Dean— Y * by the Caboceer — Dance performed by him — Setta — Scree Supply of Provisions — Custom of Tasting — The Speech — The Natives expert as Cooks — Variety of Food — I'ahu Oil — Occro — Presents from the C 'ho Widow's Mite — Harmless Deception — Presents to the Natives — Dance performed by the Soldiers — Situation ol* Setta ; its Soil, fee- Its Population ILLUSTRATIONS TO THE FIRST VOLUME.

Portrait op the Author To face the Title. Ma;* o* the Author's Route p. 1 S:33ooU €utst. kam Weapons 226 DESCRIPTION OF THESE WEAPONS: — No. 1. — A Jong straight dagger, with snake on the hilt, to bite the Mahee people. No. 2. — A large heavy knife, with imitation of tigers' claws on the back, to hook the Mahee people when running away. This knife is about the substance of the English bill-hook. No. S. — A very broad, thin knife, with a Dahomey man in the act of shooting a Mahee man. Thia knife is made of silver, and is more for ornament than use. Nos. 4 and 5 are King's battle-sticks: the angle of the handle into which the blade is fixed is the natural growth ofthe wood. No. 0 is a battle-stick, carried by all soldiers, male and female. This stick is used to beat people to death, when silence is necessary, as the report of a gun might give an alarm. By examining No. 6, five large knobs of iron are seen fixed to the under part of the head ol the weapon. TRAVELS ; * WESTERN AFRICA.

Chapter I

Departure — Arrival at Tangiers — Description of the Town — Market, — Price of Provisions — Method of Storing Grain — In habitants — The Jews — A Jewish Dwelling — The Moors— Fruits and Flowers — Desolate State of the Towu— Moorish Market-women — Gibraltar — Ascend to the Highest Point— A Pic-nic and an agreeable Reconnoitre— Cleanliness of the Inhabitants — Arrival at the Gambia — Bathurst — The Mandingos— Massacre of the Crew of the Margaret — Encounter of the Crew of the Courier with Pirates — Sierra Leone — Dr. Ferguson — Mr. Oldfield, his Hospitality— Gave ChaBe to a supposed Slaver — Cape Coast— Governor Hill — Cape Coast Castle. The Lords of the Admiralty. having given orders that I should have a free passage to any port of the west coast of Africa, and Lord Stanley having also provided me with letters of introduction to the governors of the different settlements at the Gambia, Sierra Leone, and Cape Coast, with VOL. I. B orders to render me every assistance in their power, and being also furnished with letters by Mr. Bandinell, of the Foreign Office, to the different Commissariats on the coast, requesting them to render me assistance, I made preparations for my departure forthwith.

The Geographical So ciety had kindly furnished me with the necessary instruments to make my geographical observa tions, and with the maps of Africa; and, in a generous and delicate manner which I shall never forget, presented me with a small sum of money. I now, therefore, merely waited for an official order to proceed by any vessel which might be directed to take me. This order soon arrived, and I went on board the Cygnet brig of war, Captain Layton. I was received by the captain and the rest of the officers in the most cordial manner. After getting my luggage, however, on board, another order was forwarded from the Admiralty, trans ferring me to the Prometheus steamer, Captain Hay, then under orders for the Gambia with money. Accordingly, my luggage was put on board the last-named vessel, and on Sunday afternoon, the 16th of June, 1844, I and my ser vant, William Stevens, went on board at Spit- . where the several vessels, the St. Vincent, Prometheus, and Cygnet, were riding at anchor ncar each other.

I was received in a very kind manner by Captain Hay and Lieutenant M'Gregor, and the other officers of the Prometheus. I must not forget to mention that Captain Johnston assisted me in obtaining a knowledge of the sextant, and Lieutenant Raper presented me with a copy of his valuable work on " Practical Navigation."' Captain Johnston, moreover, came on board the Prometheus at Portsmouth to request Captain Hay to make me as comfortable as possible, as well as my servant and my dog. At four o'clock on Monday morning, June 17'th, we weighed anchor (with steam up), taking the Cygnet in tow as far as Plymouth Sound. At a late hour on Sunday night Captain Hay unexpectedly received despatches ordering him to go to Tangiers and Gibraltar, at which I felt not a little disappointed, for I had fully expected to have an opportunity of visiting the island of Madeira, and of seeing my friend and countryman Mr. W. Gordon, whose kindness I had already experienced.

However, my disappointment was fully compensated by being thus allowed to visit Tangiers, off which we anchored on the 23d. As Captain Hay had despatches for the Governor, I had an opportunity of going on shore for a few hours. On landing I was stopped by several Jews as well as Moors offering their services to show me b2 the town and market, this day (Sunday) being their principal market-day. The town of Tan giers is strongly fortified towards the sea, but quite defenceless from the land. The houses are generally square, and nearly flat-roofed, and the whole town is built on a steep declivity towards the bay. There is no regularity in the si: The main street is from the bay, or lam place, cl-ise to which is the custom-house. It is about a quarter of a mile in length, narrow, crooked, and very badly paved, with shops on each side, similar to the butchers' shops in Eng land, but not so clean.

This street leads through the centre of the town to the outer wall, immediately behind which the market is held. The market-place is in a hollow immediately behind the town, but not enclosed in any way. It appeared to be well supplied with cattle and meat. In the market-place meat may be purchased at lid. per pound, but a duty is paid upon every article of consumption taken from the town to any other country, unless for the British navy. Vegetables are also very cheap, new potatoes (very fine at this season) are about one shilling per bushel ; large oranges twelve a penny. The market is a miniature Smithsield with respect to cattle, owing to the great number of h camels, and asses, used in bringing goods to it, as well as bullocks, sheep, and goats for sale. All goods are transported from one place to another on beasts of burden.

I observed a great number of fowls at a dollar per dozen. Their method of storing grain, in case of its not being sold or in ease of rain, is very simple. At short distances from each other in the part of the market arranged or allotted for the sale of grain, holes are dug, about four or five feet square, and the same in depth, into which the corn is deposited until the next market-day. These pits are lined with wood, and when the grain or other goods are deposited, the Rover is sealed by the market officer or sheriff, who re gulates the price of every article of consumption exposed for sale. The foreign inhabitants consist of various races, chiefly from France, Spain, Portugal, and Eng land ; the fewest in number are English, compris ing only the English Consul's establishment. With the exception of the native Moors, the French and Jews are the most numerous, and their character is the same as I have found it in all countries wherever I have met them.

The moment you set your foot on shore you are as sailed by a host of Jews and Moors, eager to direct you to their houses to trade with them. The Jews are generally most successful, being more civilized than the Moors. They spoil; good English, as well as many other languages, and most of the Moors who can speak English or French, arc employed by the Jews as " cads" to direct strangers to their employer's house. If they find you at all impatient at their solicitations, they invariably invite you to go to their house and drink a glass of wine with them. If you deal with them, you are supplied with a glass, or even two, but are sure to pay for it in the price of the article purchased. If you should not purchase any thing, whatever wine or happens to be your choice, they are eure to be in want of, or it is so bad that they cannot. recommend it ; yet upon the whole they are preferable to the Moors.

If you have money they treat you with great civility. Their houses are remarkably clean, and their dress is very simple and graceful. Both male and female Jews dress in the Moorish fashion. They seldom seat themselves otherwise than on a mat. Upon my entering a Jewish dwelling, in a hall on the left-hand side, the occupant's daughter was seated busily engaged in sewing. She was certainly one of the most beautiful and graceful women I ever beheld, and readily offered to shake hands with me. On the opposite side of the. entrance-hall lay a heap of wheat. The latter no doubt for sale, and probably the former also to be disposed of in the matrimonial market. On entering an inner apartment, I was introduced to the rest of the family, five in number, all remark ably clean. In the corner of this apartment was a young man, about twenty years of age, apparently a Moor, who showed article after article tor sale, as a hawker would in England.

Amongst the articles exhibited were French and Spanish cottons, morocco slippers of various patterns, silk girdles beautifully embroidered, and ladies' reti cules of a very rich pattern, also beautifully em broidered with gold, on velvet of various colours, chiefly green or red. I observed during my short stay only two dif ferent kinds of trade practised in Tangiers — shoe making and gun-making. The gun-makers showed much ingenuity, considering the clumsiness of their tools : they even twist their barrels. In general, I cannot speak very favourably of the cleanliness of the Moors, as compared with the Jews. Their streets are very dirty, — sheep-skulls, horns, and other parts of different animals, being thrown into the streets; and on the outer skirts of the market-place may be seen a number of dead dogs and kittens, which have been carried there and lest to perish, for they have not the humanity to put them to death by any other means.

I had an opportunity of visiting the Swiss Con sul's garden, which is laid out with considerable taste, aud abounds with fruit, among which I observed very fine oranges and citrons, and re markably fine figs. There ia also a burial-ground, where Christians of all nations arc inferred, amongst which were pointed out by my Moorish guide the gra\ es of an English family, consisting of a father, mother, and two children, who had been robbed and murdered by the Moors. I was informed by several of the inhabitants that it is very dangerous for any stranger to pro ceed more than a mile or two from the town, unless attended by a mounted soldier, who is appointed by the Governor, and receives a dollar per day. The cactus grows here wild, and of gigantic size ; although in the immediate vicinity of the town little vegetation is apparent.

Of the minor class, the orange, citron, and saffron shrub, with some large aloes, are the chief plants I observed. The place seems altogether poor ; but from information I obtained, it would appear that trade was much better some time back, before many of the Jews left the place on account of the disturbed state of the country. In fact, the inhabitants are now in hourly expectation ofthe French blockading the town. There is at present a Spanish frigate at anchor abreast of the town; and since we dropped anchor this morning, a French man-of-war steamer has arrived and anchored near the Prometheus. The Jews here make a good trade by changing English money. They deduct three shillings in the sovereign for exchange, and at Gibraltar, two, — a serious disadvantage to English visitors. Mules aud asses seem of all animals most used as beasts of burden.

The Moorish market-women have a very singular appearance, owing to their dress, which consists of a piece of thick woollen cloth, the same as a blanket, which envelopes the whole of their body, and entirely conceals their faces. From the slowness of their pace, and their figure, excepting the colours of their dress, one might imagine them part of a funeral procession. The men are generally tall and mus cular, though not fleshy, and strict Mahomedans. At six in the evening we weighed anchor, got steam up, and sailed for Gibraltar, where we anchored about nine o'clock. I was truly gratified at having an opportunity of visiting this place, which is, indeed, one of the wonders of the world. We carried despatches from the Consul at Tan giers to the Governor, Sir Robert Wilson. On the following morning, the 24th of June, I went on shore to see this impregnable rock, of which it would be presumption on my part to attempt a de scription, since it has been done by abler pens than b3 mine ; but I will merely give an account of the treatment received by myself and two ofthe young gentlemen belonging to the Prometheus from some of the inhabitants when on shore, which I do principally to remove those prejudices against them -which are sometimes entertained by the English.