Letters from Paris and other Cities of France, Holland, &c. written during a tour and residence in these countries, in the years, 1816, 17, 18, 19, and 20, with remarks on the conduct of the Ultra-Royalists since the Restoration

Front matter

LETTERS FROM v & m i LETTERS FROM PARIS AND OTHER CITIES OF FRANCE, HOLLAND, &c WRITTEN DURING A TOUR AND RESIDENCE IN THESE COUNTRIES, IN THE YEARS, 1816, 17, 18, 19, and 20, WITH REMARKS ON THE CONDUCT OF THE ULTRA- ROYALISTS SINCE THE RESTORATION. BY FRANKLIN J. DIDIER, A. M. M. D. &c La terra molle, lieta e dilettosa, Simili a se l'abitator produce. Tasso. JI3eto^orfe : PUBLISHED BY JAMES V. SEAMAN NO. 296 PEA.RI-STREET. .T. &.T. Harper, Printers. 1321. District of Connecticut, ss. BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the twenty-second day of June, in the for ty-fifth year of the Independence of the United States of America, Robert M'Nutt, ofthe said District, hath deposited in this office the title of a book, the right whereof he claims as proprietor, in the words following, to wit : " Letters from Paris and other cities of France, Holland, fee. written during a tour and residence in these Countries, in the years, 1816, 17, 18, 19, and 20, with remarks on the conduct of the ultra-royalists since the restoration, by Franklin J. Didier, A. M. M. D. &c." La terra molle, lieta e dilettosa, Simili a se l'abitator produce.

Tasso. In conformity to the Act of the Congress of the United States, entitled "An " Act for the encouragement of Learning, by securing the copies of Maps, " Charts, and Books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies, during the " time therein mentioned." CHARLES A. INGERSOLL, Clerk of the District of Connecticut.

Preface

. During my residence in France, I kept an interesting cor respondence with my friends at home ; besides, as a means of acquiring a habit of observation, I wrote down, every day, reflections on what I had heard and seen during my walks in so ciety. When I returned, I reduced my letters and memorandums into the form of a " Series of Letters," (adding as I procured any facts and observations which had before escaped me,) which having been perused by several of my friends, it was thought they would be interesting to the Public, as works on the same subject had hitherto enjoyed, at least, a momentary share of general patronage. Accordingly, after a few hasty altera tions and additions, I now let the work take its chance down the current of public favour ; and as I make no pretensions, I hope that criticism will be indulgent.

I can scarcely expect to add much to the mass of human knowledge — I shall be satisfied if I afford amusement, and if my " Letters" receive a place on the shelf of lounging books — " books that one takes up," says Horace Walpole, " in the gout, low spirits, ennui, or when one is waiting for company." I imagined that the form of Letters would be more amus ing than the tedious division into chapters, sections, &c. Letters that have any merit at all, are generally pleasing ; and when they treat of interesting subjects, they cannot fail to be more amusing than a continued monotonous narrative.

PREFACE.

. VI The politics which I display during the course of my correspondence, cannot displease an American reader, however they might offend the chaste Quarterly Reviewers : I do not court the approbation of such mercenary critics, but, like Junius, " I speak to the plain understanding of the people, and appeal to their honest, liberal construction of me." The period during which I resided in France, was a very in teresting one. I arrived there soon after the downfal of Na poleon, and had, therefore, an opportunity of observing the current of public opinion in all its fluctuations. The struggles for and against liberty, caused many changes on the political horizon while I was in France, and what I observed will be of sufficient importance to claim the attention of the Annalist, who seeks materials for contemporary history.

Madame de S^vigne said, " What disgusted me against history, is the reflection, that what now passes before my eyes will be history some future day." If those who " ride in the whirlwind and direct the storm," would sometimes peruse this passage with attention, we would not have witnessed so many political calamities. If they would make this salutary reflection, " All those things which cannot be divulged now, will come to light some day." I should, perhaps, apologize for introducing such a number of poetical and other quotations in my descriptions and observations ; hut, says Burns, " I like to have quotations for every thing. They give one's ideas so pat, and save one the trouble of finding expressions adequate to one's feelings. I think it is one of the greatest pleasures attending poetry, that we can give our woes, cares, joys, loves, &c. an embodied form in verse, which, to me, is ever immediate ease." Baltimore. July 18. 1821. CONTENTS. I'agt

Letter I

— Arrival at Havre — Situatiou — Rouen — Inns — Boulevards — Mount St. Catherine — Paris— Palais Royal — Houses, 9 II. — Dogs harnessed — Industry of the Poor — Anecdote of a Dog Doctor — Dull Weather, 13 III. — News Papers — Opera — Churches — Fortune not necessary to reap the greatest advantages of a large capital — Parallel between rich and poor 15 IV. — Royal Family — Extravagance of Count d'Artois — Anecdote of Ultra-Royalists — Gambling Shops 18 V. — Want of Pavements — Doct. John Bell, of Edinburgh — New-Year's gifts — Highly-decorated Shops — Customs — Dine with a Negro 22 VI . — To Julia — The Louvre — Poussin's Deluge — Madame de Stael's Delphine 26 VII. — The Carnival — Conduct of the English Government — Execution of Coquelet 29 VIII.— Hdtel des Invalides— The Duke of Orleans, ... 32 IX. — To Julia — Rosseau's Julia — Mademoiselle Mars — Fleury — Talma, 35 X. — Chamber of Deputies — Politicians — Chamber of Peers — Ecclesiastical Appropriations — Rise of the Seine — Dr. Franklin's Correspondence — Marshall Messena — Liberty of the Press — Amusements 39 XI. — Gallery of the Louvre — Painting of the Refectory „ — Garden of Sceaux 45 XII. — Conference of the Abbe Fraissinous — Fountains — Medical Students — Disturbances at the Theatre, — Duels, • ... 49 XIll — Napoleon's Generosity — Story of the Red Man — Conversations at small parties — Dancing, ... 63 XIV. — To Julia — Amusements at the Gardens — The French Drama— Gallery of the Louvre — Marie Antoniette CONTENTS- VIII Its' XV.— Madame de St. Jean d'Angely— John BeU— Negotiations with the Sovereign Pontiff — Duke of Feltre — The Comte Decazes — M. Dubouchage — The Death's Head — Bagatelle •

LETTER XVI.

— From Julia— Rousseau's Emile — Delphine ... 64 XVII.— Paintings at the Louvre— Inquisition Scene — Stag's Despair — Visit to the Mint 66 XVIII.— My Valet— Chateau and Forest of St. Germain— Malmaison, the residence of Josephine — Chateau de Ruel — Simple manners of the young paysannes — Pastoral Life 69 XIX. — Painting of the Resurrection of the Daughter of Jairus — Death of Madame de Stael — Execution of a Parricide — Double entendre on the young Napoleon 74 XX. — Conversation in the Demy — St. Denis — Cathedral — Destruction of the tombs in the Revolution — Walk to Montmorency—Hermitageof J. J.Rousseau 78 XXI. — Election of Deputies — M. de la Fayette — Royalists' detestation of Liberty — Patriots struggle for Independence — Stagnation of Commerce — Steam-Boats —Visit to St. Cloud— F6te— Lantern of Demosthenes — Chateau of St. Cloud — Fountains — An ultra-Royalist's abuse of Napoleon — Conversation with a secular Priest — The Royal Library ... 82 XXII. — To Julia — Amusements of Paris — The Montagues Beaujon — Madame Catalani — Character of Talma — Hygflia — Catacombs 89 XXIII. — The Diligence — Departure from Paris — Passengers — Auxerre — Interview between Napoleon and Marshal Ney — Approach to Avelon — Chalons sur Sadne — Passage to Macon in the Coche d'Eau — Hermitage de M»nt d'Or — Approach to Lyons — The HOtel Dieu — Situation of Lyons 94 XXIV. — Sail down the Rhone — Pont St. Esprit — Triumphal Arch at Orange — Avignon— Visit to the Hospital of the Insane — Treatment of the Patients — Churches — Massacres in 1816-16 — Murder of Marshal Brune 101 XXV. — Excursion to Vaucluse — The Fountain The Chateau of Petrarch — Return to L'isle — Dispute with the Maitre d'Hotel 107 XXVI. — Amphitheatre at Nimes — Maison Carrie The Temple of Diana — Treatment of the Protestants Destruction of their property in 1816 ... jif.

CONTENTS. IK Page

LETTER XXVII.

— To Julia— Journey from Paris to Montpellier— The tomb of Narcissa 114 XXVHI. — Derivation of the word Montpellier — The Peyron — Extensive View — The Pavilion — The Citadel — Count de Gilly bombards the city in July, 1815 — The Marquis de Montcalm enters the city . . .117 XXIX. — Murder of M. Fualdes by two of his relations — The Body thrown into the Aveyron 121 XXX. — To Julia — Beauty of the Female inhabitants of Montpellier — Thendress — Visit to Lodeve — Social Happiness — Mademoiselle D 125 XXXI. — Climate of Montpellier — Conversation with Proses sor Broussonet — Walk in the Graveyards — Ultra- Royalists — Napoleon's Career — Louis XVIII. — Religion of Montpellierians — Penitentiary .... 128 XXXII. — Beziers — Canal du Midi — Proceedings of the Secret Committee at Carcassone — Trial of M. Baux . 134 XXXIII.— Castelnaudry— Toulouse— City-Hall— Mill of Basacle — Students of Medicine and Law — The Verdets — Murder of General Ramel — Field of Battle — Duke of Dalmatia 138 XXXIV. — Fellow Travellers — Reception of Americans — History of Bordeaux — Antiquities — Grand Theatre — Churches — The Exchange — Zeal for ultra-Royalism — Anecdote of the Dutchess d' Angouleme . 142 XXXV. — To Julia — Situation of Bordeaux — M. Gouny, Curate of Bordeaux — Catholic Faith — Disposition to Raillery — Gastrotomy — Grisetles 148 XXXVI. — Journey to Paris — Fellow Travellers— A Deist — Fertility of France — Violence of the French against Napoleon 152 XXXVII. — To Julia — Religion — Sunday — Oblivion of Rank in Churches — On pure Christianity 157 XXXVIII. — To Letitia — Education — Rosseau's Opinions . . 161 XXXIX.— The Carnival— Derivation of the word— The site des sous — Respect paid to decency — Battle of Mont Martre 168 XL. — To J.

D. — M. Thouret — Preaching Repentance — Anecdote of a Cat — Caricature of Lady Morgan's France 173 XLI. — To Julia Amusements Procession of Longchamp — Madame Catalani — Beggars — The Odeon 177 0- < OME.NTiv X I'nge XLH.-Spring-Palais Royal-Garden of the Tuileries at evening— The Garden of the Luxembourg— Anecdote of the Princess Pauline-Society of Paris- Happiness-Hospital of la SalPetri6re-Paris,an Doctors XLIII -To Mrs. LET.T.A-Parisian Fashions-Dress of Women— Enmity to Detraction— Conversation— Marriage— Village Marriage 190 XLiV .—To J. D.— Newspapers— Amusing Advertisements —First representation of a piece at the Theatre- Anecdote of Voltaire— Of an Old Soldier— The LETTER Pantheon — Marat 196 XLV.— To Mrs. Letitia— Head-dress— Dr Franklin's Fashion—Dandies' Dress— Fashions during the Revolution 201 XLVI.— Pleasures of Spring— King's Chapel at the Tuileries Royal Family — Dinner in celebration of the 4th of July— De la Fayette 205 XLVII. — Abbe Fraissinous' Conferences — Lottery — Discourse of Lord Stanhope— Effects ofthe Revolution 209 XLVIII.— To Julia— Talma's Age— His Performance— Respect shown to Gray Hairs — Le Parleur Eternel — Madame Catalani 213 XLIX.— To J. D. — National Disposition— Ghosts— Anecdote of Madame des Houlieres — Vanity in Tomb Inscriptions — The Catacombs 217 L.— To Julia— Receipt of Julia's Portrait— Defects of the Painter — Choice of a Library 222 LI— Missionaries— Tragical Love — A Spanish Monk — Eulogy on the Government of Mr. Monroe — Seizure of Political Works 226 Ln. — To.

Mrs. Letitia — Accident at the Opera — Dinner at the Tuileries — Montagne Beaujon — Mademoiselle Rose — Montesquieu — Female Dress — Girls . 23l LIII. — Taste for travelling — Galley Slaves — Libels and Intrigues — Design of the ultra-Royalists — Louis XIV.'s Reign 235 LIV. — British Soldiers — Field of Waterloo — Impetuosity of the French — Anecdote of Napoleon's Guide — Napoleon's Resolution — The King of Holland — The Prince of Orange-The Exchange at Amsterdam 239 LV. — Holland — Cleanliness of the Towns — Canals — Windmills — Industry 244 LVI— To J. D.— Fair at Amsterdam— Height of the Sea — Villages of Broeck and Saardam — Dwelling of Peter the Great — Return to Saardam 248 LVII. — From Julia CONTENTS. li raje

LETTER LV

'tlL— To Julia— Return to Paris— Ermeiionville— Tomb Of Rousseau — The Academie Francais — Eulogium on Rollin — Baron Cuvier 254 LIX.— To J. D.— Sobriety of the French— Perfumers, &.c. Market of old Linen — The marchands ambulans . 258 LX. — The Rosary of Suresnes — Coronation — Fair of the Doges 261 LXI. — Journey to the South — Conduct of the Ultras — Li brary of Lyons — Soane and Rhone 265 LXII. — Journey to Sisteron — Appearance of Grenoble — Donnadieu — M. Tabaret Assassinated — Sisteron . 268 LXIII. — Aix — Approach to Marseilles — Colonized by Pho ceans— The Port 272 LXIV. — Return of the Emigrants— Crimes committed after the Battle of Waterloo— Columns— The Theatre . 275 LXV. — Arrival at Hieres — Beauty of the Country — Islands of Hieres 279 LXVI.— To J. D.— Toulon— Soldiers— Beggars— Bread . . 28i LXVII. — To Julia — Journey from Paris to Toulon — Playfulness of the French — Lyons — Rousseau — Gemenos —Mild Climate 283 LXVIII. — Arrival at Beaucaire — Aix — Nimes — Pont du Garde — Widows — Assassins 288 LXIX. — Agriculture of France — The Peasantry — Respect for Napoleon 292 LXX. — To Mrs. Letitia — Christmas — New- Year's Day — Presents — Anecdote of a Dog — Poor Man's Funeral — Description of a Ballet 296 LXXI. — To J. D. — Potier — Anecdote of an Englishman — Harvest — Views of the Nations of Europe — Violence of the Ultras 300 LXXII. — To Julia — Criticism on Kean's acting in the character of Sir Giles Overreach ; in Hamlet ; in Othello— Talma— Anticipated Return 305 LXXIII. — From Juila — Her Sickness — Thoughts on Death — Dr. Franklin's Remarks — Serenity 309 LXXIV. — Gambling Houses — Magnificent Establishment — Unhappy Wretches 312 LXXV.— To.

J. D — Cats at Coffee Houses— Civility of Dogs — American Newspapers 314 LXXVI. — To Julia — Attractions of Paris — Generosity of Parisian Ladies — Institution for the Deaf and Dumb — Academy of the Blind — Rumour of the Assassination of the Duke de Berry 3!6 CONTENTS XII P»ge

LETTER LXXVII

— The Opera— Duke de Berry Assassinated— Liberals accused as accomplices — Politics 319 LXXVIII.— To Mrs. Letitia — Gracefulness of thc Parisian Ladies — Gayety of Married Ladies — Ninon de l'En cl0is — Antiquated Devotees — Madame dc Cretot . 323 LXX1X. — French Theatres— English Drama — Ghosts — Talma — Costume — Manner of remunerating Authors — Opera Singers — Taste of the Frewch Women . . 328 LXXX. — Remarkable Events — Acquittal of M. Savary— M. Lavalette — Ney and Labedoyere — Louis XVIII. — Holy Alliance 334 LXXXI— To Mrs. Letitia— Death of Julia— Her Letters— Her angelic Conduct — Her Funeral 338 — LXXXII. — Cemeteries — Destruction of Graveyards — Garlands of Flowers 341 LXXXIII. — Marie Antoinette's Chapel — Bodies of the late King and Queen — Foundling Hospital — Births — Marriages — Deaths 344 — LXXXIV.— Execution for Murder— The Guillotine— Chateaubriand's Memoirs of the Duke de Berry — Byron's Don Juan 347 LXXXV. — Chamber of Deputies — Political state of France — Absurdity of Monarchists — Acadfemie de Musique — Talma's Performance — Ancient Gravity of the Parisians * 36J LXXXVL— To J. D.— Lord Blaney's Forced Journey— Palais Royal— Herculean Dogs — Anecdote of Rousseau — Flower Market 357 LXXXVII. — Louvel's Execution — Theatre de Pierre — Representation of a Storm — Medical Wrangling . . . 360 •LXXXVIII. — Suicide — Causes — Rousseau's Death — Procession of the Corpus Christi — M. Romain — Fanaticism of the Jesuits 363 LXXXIX. — Character of Bonaparte — Murder of Paul I. of Russia — Number of Deputies — Swiss Troops — Re flections on leaving Paris 367 XC. — Liverpool — Affairs of the Queen — Majocci — M. Godefroy — Address to thc Ocean ...... nil THROUGH FRANCE.

LETTER I.

Paris, September 8, 1816. I hasten to relieve your anxiety to hear from me. The Rubicon entered the port of Havre on the 31st ult. after a passage of twenty-eight days from New- York. During the first week I suffered afi the horrors of sea-sickness, which commenced with almost insup portable giddiness, languor, and weakness. In less than a fortnight I perfectly recovered my appetite and strength, and then reflected on my preceding sufferings, not without pleasure, looking on them as the medium through which I enjoyed the subsequent por tion of agreeable feelings. Havre is very agreeably situated, and well adapted to commerce. Great improvements are making in the port, which is now the most commercial in the kingdom, and by which the town is divided into two parts ; this large basin, which contains all the ship- I (j DIDIERS LETTERS ping, is closed at night by an immense chain. — Francis I. who raised Havre to its present im portance, wished it to be called Franciscopolis ; but the old name, derived from a chapel called Notre Dame de Grace, has continued to this day.

From the tower of Notre Dame, which formerly served as a light-house, an immense horizon is discovered. To the west Barfleur is seen at the distance of twenty-five leagues ; the eye distinguishes the rocks of Calvados, the mouths of the Orne and Dive, and the environs of Quillebœuf. The French tell me that Paris is very dull at present : the English visiters say quite the contrary ; the Parisians are naturally so vivacious, that any thing below the sparkling will not suit them. It is said, that within the last two months, forty thousand strangers, mostly English, have visited this city. I left Havre, for Rouen, on the 4th instant, which I entered before dark the same day, and put up at the Hotel de PEurope, said to be the best in the town ; but which is not above mediocrity. The inns on the road are at the same time filthy and elegant ; the din ners are both uncomfortable and luxurious ; at every table-d'hote the eye is flattered with a profusion of fricassees, ragouts, silver forks and napkins !

The climate is so delightful, and the people so amusing, that the stranger would put up with much worse fare at a higher price. Rouen is a filthy, rainy, disagreeable place. The houses in general are abominably built, having the appearance of being all roof! The streets are tor tuous, irregular, and dirty ; and there are no amusements but the theatre, which is wretched. The environs, however, make up for the defects of the interior. The boulevards are said to be the finest in France, and the landscape, viewed from Saint Catherine's Mount, is beautifully diversified with the serpentine meanderings ofthe Seine, the picturesque little islands on this river, and the bridge of boats. A walk to the top of the Mount is rather fatiguing; but the traveller is amply repaid for his pains, by the variety of objects, and profusion of superb scenery presented on all sides.

I at length arrived in the gaudy capital of this inte resting country, this emporium of luxuries and the fine arts, of every sensual gratification, and the greatest misery ! Here novelty alone would be sufficient to render agreeable what in itself is not so. I went the very first evening to the Palais-Royal, which is really a Macedoine universelle. — " He who has but a day to pass in Paris, might possess himself without quitting the Palais-Royal (says Jouy) of an exact idea of the resources, of the advantages, and of the inconveni ences of this immense capital." It is a species of ca mera obscura, where can be viewed every thing that passes in the metropolis, — a sink which has collected all the riches and poverty, the vices and follies, the pleasures and misery, of this " work-day world."

On my first entering the garden, I was struck with the magnificence and splendour displayed in the galleries and shops. The superb structure of the Palace, the richness of the furniture, and the gorgeous eclat of the boutiques produced a succession of the most delightful reflections. At night the piazzas and shops ; in a word, the whole of the Palace, is lighted by reverbe ratory lamps, producing in the garden the most vivid and brilliant illumination. DIDIER'S LETTERS 12 What adds peculiar interest to the motley scenes presented in this capital, is the abundance of lively contrasts with which it is replete. Here is seen a stately palace, " cloud-capt" and glittering with architectural elegance; there a filthy slop-shop, a boot-black's stall, or a rag fair ; at the door of some theatre you may observe the " empty thoughtless tribe" passing with eagerness to the spleen-expanding representations of Harlequin, or a favourite buffoon — while, in the turning of the street, may be viewed a funeral procession, or a litter, conveying some sufferer to the Hotel-Dieu, or the Charite Hospital.

The houses are in general high and elegant, and, (says the Quarterly Review,) '.' contrasted with the narrowness of the streets, gives them the appearance of lanes cut in quarries of free-stone, where some spirit or demon has alternately hewn out a palace or a pig-stye!" Even the piles of filth and waggons of mud and offal are not displeasing, when opposed to external splendour and the pomp of equipage, which glide like meteors along the boulevards and streets ! 1 hope that, in my ensuing letters, I will be able to give you a more de tailed account of Paris: at present I have only " seen it, as through a glass, darkly."

Letter II

Paris, September 23, 1816. You always put me so much in mind of Will Honey comb, that I must begin my correspondence with you in a spectatorial style. My letters to our parents will, I hope, persuade you, that I observe every thing attentively ; and those to you will prove that I will be amused as well as instructed during my sojourn in this modern Athens. Every night before Morpheus scatters his poppies over my brow, I study the plan of Paris, and note down what I shall observe next day. Early in the morning I sally forth " le levre a la main," and after having walked myself into an appetite, I enjoy a breakfast at the first coffee-house. The whole day is employed in examining the videnda, visiting my new acquaintances, reading books on Paris, and noting what peculiarly strikes me during my peripate tic strolls.

I am reading the Hermite de la Chausee d'Antin, a work of French manners and customs, by M. de Jouy, highly distinguished among the literati. It is, I am told, the only work in Paris, written in the style of the Spectator or Tatler, and designed to " catch the manners living as they rise." Among the numerous eccentricities of this place, I cannot help noticing the custom of harnessing dogs to small carts. It is extremely diverting to observe a a large mastiff, completely caparisoned, trotting the streets with the utmost gravity and composure, drag ing a cart well stored with market articles ! I could not fail being struck with the great industry of the J4 DIDIER'S LETTERS French poor; they let nothing, even of the vilest nature, escape them, but turn every thing to some use. To give you an example: I observed a set of fellows going about the streets, picking up dead cats, w hich, on inquiry, I find they skin, sell it to the glovemakers, make ivory-black of the bones, and oil ofthe rest!

On the bridges I have seen several curious labels, particularly of dog-shavers, doctors, and merchants : a. propos ! I will give you an anecdote related by Mercier in his entertaining Picture of Paris : The wife of a physician had a favourite dog, which fell sick ; her husband had promised to cure it, but did not succeed. At length she sent for Lionnais, a famous dog doctor, whose prescriptions had the de sired effect. " How much must I pay you for this," said the grave disciple of Hippocrates to the preserver ofthe canine race, " Oh! Sir, (cried Lionnais,) we gentlemen of the faculty never take fees from each other." The weather at present is so very foggy and dull, that it is very seldom we can say with Hudibras, " Like a lobster boiled, the morn " From black to red begins to turn." But there is so much to observe and amuse, that the clouds do not affect my spirits, although I sometimes cast "a longing lingering look" toward our domestic circle.

Letter III

Paris, November 20, 1816. Since my letter of the 8th ult. I have written to several members ofthe family ; and, as my letters are common stock, I deemed it unnecessary to write you by the same opportunities. I have become a greater news-monger than I was formerly ; and although not so profound a one as the Upholsterer in the Tattler, I am now fully aware of the utility of reading the papers. Here nothing is pub fished in the journals but what this paternal govern ment chooses to sanction ; we hear scarcely any more of Napoleon, than if he had never existed — in fact, many of the people do not know where he is. When I say this, I allude to the political articles in the jour nals, and the conversations in the coffee-houses, clubs, &c. for in private assemblies the name of the Emperor is often pronounced with veneration, and the acts of his reign discussed with freedom.

On the other hand, we are daily informed, with the most solemn gravity, that his Majesty went at such an hour to mass, — that Monsieur has taken a ride to Compiegn, and that LL. AA. RR. his sons, have gone a hunting to St. Germains, or the Bois de Vincennes. I have at length become acquainted with the gene ral features of Paris; most of the attractions here pleased me at first, by the charms which no velty unfolded— from variety they borrowed a great part of their lustre; and the more I see, the more have I reason to admire. The performance at thc Theatre is \ery fine. " There is not (says Chester field) nor ever was, any theatre comparable to the French." Talma, Lafon, and Mademoiselle Duches nois in tragedy, and Fleury, Damas, and Mademoiselle Mars in comedy, exceed all possible description.

I attend the Theatre Frangois not only as an amusement, but with the intention of perfecting myself in the language, and observing the manners of thc people. France being the very nursery of the graces, it may well be concluded that the Opera, (which is consecrated to their worship,) must be a master-piece of its kind. It is impossible for me to describe the effect which was produced on my mind the first time I visited this theatre : the ravishing music, varying from the most melo dious sweetness to the majestic rolling of thunder ; the exquisite grace and voice of the singers; the inimitable elegance cf the ballettes and magnificence ofthe scenery, quite transported me. In the actresses 1 was more agreeably struck with gracefulness than personal beauty ; that " graceful witchery" appeared to me as a transparent veil, through which the mind could be discovered, with all the brilliancy of imagi nation and the genuine lustre of luxuriant genius.

I find two or three excellent Protestant churches established at Paris, in which sermons are delivered in English and French. But religion is not very fashionable : yet I hope that by attending to its indispensable duties, I may avoid the example of those mis taken beings, who, (to use an expression of Socrates,) " prefer the condition of an oyster to the happiness of a deity." It is often gratuitously asserted that, in order to reap most advantage from a residence in a large capital, a splendid fortune is requisite ; but I think that the falsity of this opinion can be exemplified perfectly in Paris and its environs. In general, it is a great error to suppose that the higher classes of society en joy the most vivid and various pleasures ; while a certain decorum prevents the " curled darlings" of fortune from giving loose to the impulses of gaiety and folly : those persons whose lot it has been to remain deprived of the advantages of rank and wealth, abandon themselves, without scruple or restraint, lo the emotions of a free and animated joy ; thus, dancing, which is a study, a pastime, in which vanity forms the principal pleasure with the former, is with the latter a real amusement.