A Cruise in the 'Gorgon'; or, Eighteen months on H.M.S. 'Gorgon,' engaged in the suppression of the slave trade on the east coast of Africa. Including a trip up the Zambesi with Dr. Livingstone

Front matter

lantUm,- llill ._ AuM. . LONDON: PRINTED BY W. CLOWE*? AND SONS, STiMFOttD STKXET AND CHARING .ROSS. OR, EIGHTEEN MONTHS ON H. M.S. "GORGON," ENGAGED IN THE SUPPRESSION OF THE SLAVE TRADE ON THE EAST COAST OF AFRICA. INCLUDING A TRIP UP THE ZAMBESI WITH DR. LIVINGSTONE. By W. COPE DEVEREUX, ASSISTANT PAYMASTER, R.N. LONDON: BELL AND DALDY, YORK STREET, COVENT GARDEN 1869. TO CAPTAIN BEDFORD C. PIM, R.N., IN TESTIMONY OF REGARD AND GRATITUDE. THIS VOLUME IS DEDICATED i:y THE AUTHOR.

Preface

. The following pages were written chiefly amid the noise and bustle of the gun-room of Her Majesty's ship " Gorgon." They were not intended for publication, but to amuse the author's friends, and to preserve a record of adventures which will ever remain deeply im pressed on his memory. Those friends have kindly expressed a desire to see in print that which had pleased them in manuscript ; and, with much distrust, and diffidence, the author has complied with their wishes, on the promise of one of them to see it through the press. The author being still in the Southern Hemisphere, and, consequently, too far away to perform the duty of editor himself, the work will, in all probability, be found to contain errors which, under other circumstances, would have been avoided. A considerable portion of the work will be found, the editor believes, of much interest to those who have laboured for the suppression of the infamous traffic in human beings on the east coast of Africa, and in cidentally to those who have watched with anxious

PREFACE.

. VIII solicitude the proceedings of Dr. Livingstone in the same region. Naval officers, too, will probably obtain occasional hints on adding to the comforts and amusements of ship life ; and that voracious personage, the general reader, will obtain glimpses of strange people and places little known to Englishmen generally. In consenting to the publication, the author expressed his sense of the inadequacy of his work, and his know ledge that an abler writer could have made much more of the same material. The editor feels himself in precisely the same position ; but, at the same time, both entertain hopes that the public will form a higher estimate of their labours. London, June, 1869. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Page

Leaving Plymouth— Looking for the lost Prince of Wales— Arrival at Portsmouth— From Portsmouth to Madeira— "Visit to the Empress of Austria at Madeira — We accept a challenge from the Madeira Cricket Club— We are disgracefully beaten— A Dinner at the British Consul's — We give a Ball on board to the Invalids — Leaving Madeira ........ 1

Chapter II

Madeira to St. Vincent — A dreary, monotonous Cruise — Porto Grande : its splendid Harbour — To Tarrafal Bay to get Water — St. Vincent to Rio de Janeiro — A Man Overboard — Santa, Cruz — We arrive at Rio : the Society there — Yankees and their Doings — The Negroes' Working-song put down as a Nuisance — A Grand Feast-day — Farewell to Rio ..... 12

Chapter III

To Tristan d'Acunha — Patriarchs and their Unhappy Family — Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope — Table Bay — Simon's Bay and Town — Public Institutions at Cape Town — The Press — Sights in the Streets of Cape Town — A Hottentot Jehu — Increase in the Value of Land — Cape Wines — Simon's Town Society — Christmas at the Cape — Our New Commander . . .33 CONTENTS. X I'AGE 75 fi]

Chapter IV

Searching for a Lost Ship laden with Legislative Councillors — We put into Algoa Bay — Mossel Bay — To the Mozambique — A Man Overboard — A Storm at Sea — Arrival at Natal — The Cotton-growing capability of that Colony . . . . . .50

Chapter V

Arrival at our Cruising Ground in search of Slavers — Preparations for the Chase — Cutting Wood Ashore— Our Ruffian — The Slave Trade— Mozambique — French evasions of Slave Treaties — The Dhows or Slave Ships — A scene on board with two refugee Slaves 57

Chapter VI

The Natives of Pemba Bay — Our visit to their Chief, and a night in their Huts— A day's Shooting — Kiswara and its Inhabitants — A Dhow in sight — The Chase, and our great Loss — The Slave Markets of Quiloa and Ibo — Our Doctor's Cruise amongst the Slavers— A Night on Latham Island — Arrival at Zanzibar

Chapter VII

Zanzibar and its History — Acquisitions of Imaum Synd Said — Sensuality and Ignorance of the Arab — The Sultan and the Aristocracy of Zanzibar — The Baloch Tribe — The Banians — A Slave Market— A Native Dance — A Distressing Sight — Slave Depots .

Chapter VIII

In chase of a Matape— The Disappointment — Arrival at Magadoxa — Our interpreter, Jubran, despatched on an awkward errand — Description of Magadoxa — Arrival at our rendezvous, Kwyhoo — The Return of our " Pinnace," No. 11— The search for Loot — The Crews' account of their doings amongst the Dhows — Bartering with the Natives at Pemba ..... CONTENTS. XI 176

Chapter IX. Page

The Start for Melinda — A Sharp Encounter— On our way to the Seychelles— Running short of Coals, &c— General Discontent and Illness on Board — Arrival at the Seychelles — Mahe and its Imports— Immorality of its Inhabitants — Society at a High Premium—The curious Leaf-fly— An Expensive Trip . . .136

Chapter X

A Journey of 900 Miles before us, and at present no Wind — Hoping for Change of the Monsoon — A Long Course of " Salt-hnrse " — Gun Exercise, to while away the Monotony — The " Mumps " prevail— Christmas-day on Board — Expressions of Regret in the Loss of our late Commander — At last we Arrive at Zanzibar — Increase of the Slave Trade — We Visit the Slave Market — The Nautch Dance — A Yankee Friend — Preparations for Johanna — Johanna is Incomparable for its Beautiful Scenery . . . 150

Chapter XI

Mozambique — We fall in with the Zambesi Expedition — The " Lady Nyassa " — Mrs. Livingstone and her Party — Hardships they meet < with — The Two Parties — Leaving for Quillimane in Search of News of Dr. Livingstone and Bishop Mackenzie — Arrival off Quillimane — Preparing and Provisioning a Paddle-box Boat for a Three-days' Cruise — The Start — News of the Doctor having gone to Congoni —A Miserable Night in the Town of Quillimane — We leave for Congoni — Arrival of the " Pioneer," the Doctor's vessel .......... 163

Chapter XII

The little " Pioneer " and her Cargo— Landing between Congoni and East Luabo on a Shooting Excursion— Amongst the Antelopes, Waterbucks, and Oryx— A successful shot— Fever amongst us— Amateur Cooks— Mistaken expenditure ofthe Mission— We run short of Provisions, but replenish by Hunting— Mosquitoes — A well-timed discovery CONTENTS. XII PAGE 188

Chapter XIII

We start— Ascent of the River— Its Banks and Varied Scenery— The "Pioneer" Aground — Bartering with the Natives — A Description of them — Query, shall we ever get the " Pioneer " afloat again?" — The Negro and the White Ladies — Poor Old '' Log " and his Misfortune— The " Pioneer" again in Trouble — — A Hunting Excursion in the Jungle

Chapter XIV

Our party Maimed by the Mosquitoes — Natives eager for Barter — The Lock of Hair — Difficulty in Navigating the Zambesi — Receipt for making Beer — An Interview with Seiior Marima — An apology for a Farmyard — He prepares us a Feast — A Project in view — The Result — The valuable Donkey "Alice"— The Gig's departure with the Ladies ....... 203

Chapter XV

Mismanagement of the Mission — A Mosquito Hunt — A Canoe Expedition in search of Wood — Our arrival at Chapanga — Chapanga House and its Host — The Morambara Mountain — A contrast — The huge Barbara Tree — Poor Mrs. Livingstone's Resting-place — The Macoondah Coondah — A Hornets' Nest — The Village Blacksmith — "Scissors " — A good night's rest under a Mosquito Curtain — A Visit from two Landenes — A novel way of bringing down Cocoa-nuts — A Glorious Sunset — A disregard of Orders, and Punishment . . . . . . . 217

Chapter XVI

Felling Timber against Time — A Visit to a Village through a Forest — The Natives' Amazement on seeing a Female European — The " Lady Nyassa " — Disappointment in not finding Game — Great joy amongst us at the prospect of returning to the old " Gorgon " — Our last Dinner with the "Pioneers " — The adieu — We Anchor off Vienna's* — The Old Fellow's Hospitality — The wish for his Half-caste Son — The Blue-Jacket's Disgrace CONTENTS. XIII

Chapter XVII. Page

Leaving Johanna for Congoni — Our arrival there — We meet with our little " Crusader," and welcome the return of our Commander — An Adventure — Our Cruise up the Zambesi ends — Arrival at the Cape— The " Gorgons " are lionized— The Cape Town Races — The Malays and their Holiday — The Lawyers and the Prize-money 250

Chapter XVIII

Thirty-six days in Harbour — The " Narcissus " leaves for the Mozambique — Salutes exchanged with the Vessels in Harbour — Rumours as to our Destination — Orders for the Mauritius and Madagascar — Farewell to Cape Friends — Arrival at Algoa Bay — Kaffir Kraals — Nearing the Mauritius — Port Louis — The high peak "Peter Botte'" — The Mauritius and its City — A pleasant Walk to the Botanical Gardens — The Tombs of Paul and Virginia — Our Queen's Presents to the King and Queen of Madagascar on their Coronation ...... 270

Chapter XIX

Embarkation of the Members of the Mission — Entering Tamatave Harbour — A Description of Tamatave — -Salute and Landing — The Procession — A medley of Uniforms — Native Palanquins — Love of Music — Women and their Grasswork — Rev. Mr. E and his Good Seeds — The Malagashes' System of Currency — The Bishop and his Couch — A Bath under difficulties — Mideight Procession — The Arrival of our Consul .... 289

Chapter XX

Off Bourbon — Quarantine — Bourbon and its advantages over Mauritius — At St. Louis— We go into Dock— Mauritins and its Society — The Racecourse— Amusements and Visitors — " Coming Events cast their Shadows before "—Preparing for a Ball, &c— The Fun commences — A Wedding — Leaving Mauritius for Tamatave— The Bishop aud party join us— The description of the Country they pass through and the Inhabitants — The "Father of Great Thoughts "—Our party is serenaded— Curfew at Tamatave CONTENTS. PAGE 353

Chapter XXI

A Native Wake — Arrival of the Mission in the Capital — Their Procession to the King's Palace — The Reception — The King's Banquet — The " Jaka " — His Majesty dances a " fling " — Festivities — The City of Tantanarivo ; its Market-place and Bazaars — The King's Presents to all his Male Guests — The Dress of the [ Native Ladies — Madagascar Martyrs — Queen "Jezebel's" Cruelties — The " Prune " Tree — Governor of Tamatave ; his House, &c. — The Order of Radama II. — We leave again for the Mauritius 319

Chapter XXII

Arrival at Johanna — We meet with our old friend the " Pioneer " — A Chat over the Past — Preparations for another Cruise — Off Cape Delgado — -Departure of the Boats — The "Penguin's" Troubles — We revisit Zanzibar — Our Interpreter, " Bullhead," again turns up — The Arab Informers — We go in search of the " Penguin " — Arrival at Lamoo — Thoughts on the Slave Trade — To Brava — A Dhow in sight — Brava the " Brighton " of the coast — The "Penguin" turns up here — Dodging about the "Line" — Insubordination of one of the Crew — His trial and Punishment — En route to Zanzibar ..... 337

Chapter XXIII

On our way to Zanzibar — Longings for Home — The Cocoa-nut Trees — Amusements of Zanzibar — The " Penguin " brings sad news — Punishment of the Murderers — Chasing Dhows — Arrival of Letters — Orders for the Seychelles — The Islet of Silhouette — A Midnight Surprise — Port Victoria — The effects of a fearful Hurricane — Our Christmas-day — We purchase a Whale Boat — Preparing for a Campaign — Opening the New Year — The kindness of the Sultan of Zanzibar — The " Royal Stables " — Somali Arabs — -A street in Zanzibar — Slaves waiting to embark .

Chapter XXIV

Our Travelling Guests — Account of their Hardships — We land for Iboo — A Dhow Chase — The Capture, &c. — A Disappointment — Picking up our Boats and dropping them — A monotonous time CONTENTS. XV PAGE — Cruising between Port Durnford and Lamoo — Orders as to Captures — Commissariat Duties — A Description of Lamoo and its People — The Banians — A Visit to the Governor — Summa and the Matape' — A Present to the Ship's Company — Searching for Night quarters — Sharpened Appetites — A Civil War at Lamoo — Guarding the Native Sailors — The Escape — Fitting the Matape — Arrival at Johanna 372

Chapter XXV

A " Black Monday " — A White Nigger : a Freak of Nature — Price of Articles of Food at Zanzibar — Off Chula Point — K — -'s Matape and the Dhow he captured — A Mistake — The Gig's arrival — All Looting to be Disgorged — Great Digust thereat A Diplomatic Errand to Lamoo — The Reception — The Governor's Visit to us — The Slave Season — The Gunner's Division picked ap — Their Adventures — The semi-barbarous Somali — Off Port Durnford — Compensation — Keomboni, or " Dick's Head " — A Shooting Excursion — Bad Luck ...... 387

Chapter XXVI

The Past and the Present of Melinda — We anchor off Boobooboo — The Sultan of Zanzibar and the Slave Trade — His Cruise with us — Difficulty in amusing his Suite — We purchase Nick-nacks at Zanzibar — A Great Feast — The Sultan's Present to us — — We leave Zanzibar for good — The Friends we leave behind Remarks on the Slave Trade — The Feast of Ramazan — Mahommedan Fast-days — Bibi Alla's Presents — Slave Girls and their Omaments — An Arab Dance — A Description of Mohilla — Visit to the Queen — At Port Mozambique — We stumble across a Friend — Farewell to the Mozambique — On our way to the Cape — Algoa Bay and its Gaieties — Festivities, &c, in honour* of our arrival — At Simon's Bay