Trade and Travel in the Far East; or Recollections of twenty-one years passed in Java, Singapore, Australia and China

Preface

. Ihe following pages were written to beguile the tediousness of a long voyage from Hong Kong to England, during the spring and summer of 1844. When I state, that the whole was written with the paper on my knee, for want of a desk, amid continual interruptions from three young children lacking amusement during their long confinement on ship board, and with a perpetual liability to be pitched to leeward, paper and all, — I shall have said enough to bespeak from every good-natured reader a candid allowance for whatever defects may attach to the composition. It is necessary, however, that I should also premise, that the sketches are drawn entirely from memory, and that the incidents referred to in the earlier chapters, took place some twenty years ago. That my recollection may have proved treache rous on some minor points, is very possible ; but, whatever may be the merits or demerits of the work in other respects, it contains, to the best of my know ledge and belief, nothing but truth in the strictest sense of that term ; and, as imbodying the result of my own personal observations in the countries visited,

PREFACE.

. II it may possess an interest on that account, not al ways attaching to volumes of higher pretensions. My wanderings have been neither few nor short, and, perhaps, verify the old proverb, that a rolling stone gathers no moss. I have crossed the Ocean in forty different square-rigged vessels ; have trod the plains of Hindostan, the wilds of Sumatra, and the mountains of Java ; have strolled among the beautiful hills and dales of Singapore and Penang ; have had many a gallop amid the forests and plains of Aus tralia ; have passed through the labyrinth of reefs forming Torres' Straits ; and have visited the far famed Celestial Empire. My first idea, in endeavour ing to retrace my journeyings and adventures, was, that the personal narrative might serve to amuse a circle of private friends. But the notices relating to the openings for Trade in the Far East, and to the subject of Emigration, together with the free stric tures upon the causes of the recent depression in our Australian colonies, will, I venture to hope, be not unacceptable to those who are interested in the exten sion of British commerce, and in the well-being of the rising communities which form an integral part of the mighty Empire now encircling the Globe.

Some parts of the work refer to coming events as probable, which have since become matters of fact ; but I have not deemed it necessary to suppress or to alter what I had written. I am more especially

PREFACE.

. III happy to find that my suggestions respecting Borneo have, to some extent, been anticipated ; and that the important discovery of its coal-mines has been taken advantage of by Her Majesty's Government in the very way pointed out in observations written at sea fifteen months ago. Since my arrival in England, I have learned also, that the feasibility of the naviga tion of Torres1 Straits from west to east, has struck others more competent to form a correct judgment than myself. Captain T. Blaekwood, commander of Her Majesty's ship, Fly, at present employed in sur veying the coast of New Holland, the Straits, and parts adjacent, has expressed his determination, after refitting at Singapore, to endeavour to enter the Pacific Ocean, during the north-west monsoon, by sailings through Torres' Straits from the westward.

I trust that this enterprising Officer will succeed in the attempt, and thereby put beyond question the practicability of the passage ; which would not only shorten the distance between Australia and our Indian territories, but contribute, more than any thing else could do, to facilitate the transit of the Overland Mail to Sydney. The Australians, I find, are still sanguinely bent upon discovering an overland route from the present fron tiers of the Colony to Port Essington ; but, although I heartily wish them success, my opinion, as expressed in the subsequent pages, remains unaltered. I observe, that the Singaporeans are already com-

PREFACE.

. plaining of the decrease of the number of square rigged vessels that have visited their port during the recent season, and of the falling-off of the Chinese junk trade, which they correctly attribute to the opening of the trade with China ; thereby verifying my predictions. I fear that they will have still greater cause for complaint before twelve months shall have rolled away. But the merchants of Singapore, it gives me pleasure to add, are taking advantage of the times, by entering upon the China trade, and seem determined not to suffer loss, if they can help it, by the effect of Sir Henry Pottinger's famous Treaty. This is as it should be. With these few remarks on the motives which have induced me to write and give to the world the following sketches, I now committhem to their fate ; trusting that they may serve to beguile an hour, to some of my numerous friends in the different parts of the world they refer to, and that, to the reader unacquainted with those countries, they may prove both useful and entertaining.

Before taking leave of the reader, however, I must apologize for an unfortunate error my printer has fallen into, (at p. 3 note *), in mis printing the name of Mr. Mercus, one of the best men that ever ruled a Colony, whether Dutch or En glish. This name has been converted into Minns ; and the error was not detected, till the sheet had passed through the press.

PREFACE.

. V As for the critics. — for any kind or friendly re marks they may make, I shall feel grateful; while any of a contrary nature will neither surprise nor displease me. Hull, January 1846. CONTENTS.

PREFACE.

p. i

Chapter I. Java

FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF BATAVIA NARROW POLICY OF THE GOVERNMENT DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD ROADS AND POSTING SYSTEM STATE OF SOCIETY CLIMATE AND SEASONS TROPICAL FRUITS. 1

Chapter II. Java

SAMARANG A TIGER FIGHT JAVA PONEVS EXCURSION TO SOLO WILD SPORTS DJOCKDJOCARTA REMAINS OF THE ANCIENT PALACE IMPERIAL ELEPHANTS EXPERI- MENT IN INDIGO-PLANTING JAVANESE EXECUTION A PET BOA ALLIGATORS — FOREST LABOUR SLAVERY IN JAVA OPIUM-SMOKING TEA — THE UPAS-TREE 16

Chapter XVI. China

ADVANTAGEOUS POSITION OF HONG KONG THE OPIUM TRADE IMPORTANCE OF THE STATION IN THE EVENT OF A FRESH WAR CHUSAN HOW TO RAISE A REVENUE CAUSES OF ALLEGED INSALUBRITY RAPID PROGRESS OF THE SETTLEMENT PICTURESQUE SCENERY MARKETS SANATORY HINTS 237

I. PLAN FOR THE ACCELERATION OF THE CHINA MAILS (-.e. THEIR CONVEYANCE FROM SUEZ Vid CEYLON to hong KONG direct) 299

APPENDIX.

II. MEMORANDUM ON BORNEO, AND MR. BROOK'S SETTLEMENT ON THAT ISLAND IN THE FAR EAST.

Chapter I. Java

FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF BATAVIA NARROW POLICY OF THE GOVERNMENT DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN AND NEIGH- BOURHOOD ROADS AND POSTING SYSTEM STATE OF SOCIETY CLIMATE AND SEASONS TROPICAL FRUITS. Early in the year 1823, I left England, quite a youngster, full of life and spirits, bound for that so called grave of Europeans, Batavia. Of my passage out, I shall say nothing more, than that it lasted exactly five months, and was, in point of wind and weather, similar to nine-tenths of the voyages made to the same region. Well do I remember the 5th of October 1823, the day on which I first set foot on the lovely and mag nificent island of Java. How bright were then my prospects, surrounded as I was with a circle of anxious friends, who were not only able, but willing also, to lend me a helping hand, and who now, alas ! are, to a man, gone from me and all to whom they were dear.

I was then prepared — I might say determined — to be pleased with every thing and every body. At this distance of time, I can scarcely remember what struck me most forcibly on landing ; but I have a vivid recollection of being perfectly delighted with the drive, in a light airy carriage drawn by two spirited little Java poneys, from the wharf to the house of the friend with whom I was to take up my abode. The pluck with which those two little animals rattled us along quite astonished me; and the novel appearance of every thing that met the eye, so bewildered and delighted me, that I scarcely knew how to think, speak, or act. What a joyous place was Batavia in those days, with every body thriving, and the whole town alive and bustling with an active set of merchants from all parts of the world !

The Dutch Government, at that time, pursued a more liberal system than they have of late adopted; and, instead of monopolizing the produce ofthe Island, sold it by public auction regularly every month. This plan naturally attracted purchasers from England, the Continent of Europe, and the United States of America, who brought with them good Spanish dollars to pay for what they purchased; so that silver money was as plentiful in Netherlands India, in those days, as copper doits have since become. The enlightened individual who now governs Java* and its dependencies, is, I have good reason to think, opposed to the monopolizing system pursued by his Government: his hands, however, are tied, and he can only remonstrate, while the merchants can but pray that his remonstrances may be duly weighed by his superiors.

Java exports one million peculs t of coffee per annum, one million peculs of rice, and one million peculs of sugar ; be sides vast quantities of tin, pepper, hides, indigo, &c. Were its trade thrown open to fair competition, as formerly, it is as certain that His Majesty the King of the Netherlands would be a gainer, as that his adopting the more liberal system would give satisfaction to every mercantile man connected in any way with his East-Indian possessions. The experience of the last three years ought to have taught His Majesty this lesson ; and we may hope he will take warning from the miserable result of his private speculations during that period. Batavia is not the unhealthy place it has been usually deemed. The city itself is certainly bad enough ; but no European sleeps a single night in it out of a twelvemonth.

From four to five o'clock every evening, the road * 1845. His Excellency Mr. Minns, since dead. t A pecul is a Chinese weight used all over the Eastern Archi pelago, and is equal to 133j lbs. avoirdupoise. B leading from the town to the suburbs is thronged with vehicles of all descriptions, conveying the merchants from their counting-houses to their coun try or suburban residences, where they remain till nine o'clock the next morning. These country resi dences are delightfully situated to the south of Ba tavia, properly so called, extending inland over many square miles of country. Every one of them has a garden (called here a compound) of considerable extent, well stocked with plants, shrubs, and trees, which serve to give them a lively and elegant ap pearance, and to keep them moderately cool in the hottest weather.

Servants' wages being very low here, every European of any respectability is enabled to keep up a sufficient establishment, and to repair to his office in his carriage or hooded gig, in which he may defy the sun. Many of them, particularly Dutchmen, have an imprudent practice of driving in an open carriage, with an umbrella held over their heads by a native servant standing on the foot board behind his master. Having resided several years in the suburbs of Batavia, I have no hesitation in saying, that, with common prudence, eschewing in toto the vile habit of drinking gin and water whenever one feels thirsty, living generously but carefully, avoiding the sun's rays by always using a close or hooded carriage, and taking common precautions against wet feet and damp clothing, a man may live — and enjoy life, too — in Batavia, as long as he would in any other part of the world.

Many people may think this a bold as sertion ; nevertheless, I make it without fear of con tradiction from any one acquainted by experience with the country. One great and invaluable advantage over all our Eastern Colonies, Batavia, in common with every part of Java, possesses, in the facilities that exist for travelling from one part of the Island to another. Throughout Java, there are excellent roads, and on every road a post establishment is kept up ; so that the traveller has only to apply to the post-master of Batavia, pointing out the road he wishes to travel, and to pay his money according to the number of miles : he obtains, with a passport, an order for four horses all along his intended line of route, and may perform the journey at his leisure, the horses, coach men, &c. being at his command night or day, till he accomplishes the distance agreed for.

Thus, a party going overland from Batavia to Samarang, a distance of three hundred miles, may either perform the journey in three days, or extend it to three weeks, should they wish to look about them, and to halt a day or two at various places as they go along. In no part of British India is there any thing approaching to such, admirable and cheap facilities for travelling. And what an inestimable blessing they are to the Batavian invalid, who can thus, in a few hours, be transported, with perfect ease and comfort, into the cool and delightful mountainous regions of Java, where he may choose his climate, by fixing himself at a height varying from one thousand to seven thousand feet above the level ofthe sea! Java, from east to west and from north to south, is a favourite region with me, and, I believe, with every Englishman who ever visited it.

Gin and brandy have killed five-sixths of all the Europeans who have died in Batavia within the last twenty years ; but with pleasure I can add, that this destructive habit has almost entirely disappeared: hence the diminished number of deaths, and the more robust and ruddy appearance of the European inhabitants. The surrounding country is both salubrious and beautiful, rising gradually as you proceed inland, till you reach Buytenzorg, forty miles S.S.E. of Batavia, where the Governor-General of Netherlands India generally resides, in a splendid palace, surrounded with extensive and magnificent gardens. The climate is cool and pleasant, more particularly in the mornings and evenings, and the ground is kept moist by daily showers ; for it is a singular fact, that scarcely a day in the year passes without a shower in this beautiful neighbourhood.

Buytenzorg is a favourite resort of the merchants of Batavia, who take advantage of the facilities for travelling to visit it on the Saturday afternoon, remaining the whole of Sunday, and returning to town, and to the renewal of their labours, on the following morning. The scenery is magnificent ; and the view (well known to every visiter) from the back verandah of the inn, is the finest that can be imagined. Stand ing on the steps of this verandah, you have, immediately under your foot, an extensive plain, thoroughly cultivated, sprinkled with villages, each vil lage being surrounded with evergreen trees, and the whole almost encircled by a river. To the left of this valley rises an extensive and picturesque mountain, cultivated almost to the summit, and dotted here and there with villages and gentlemen's houses.

Looking into the valley at early morn, you will see the lazy buffalo, driven by an equally indolent ploughman, dragging a Lilliputian plough through the slimy paddy-field ; the lazy Javanese labourer going to his work in the field ; the native women reaping, with the hand only, and stalk by stalk, the ripe paddy (rice) in one field, while those in the next are sowing the seed ; the adjoining fields being covered with stubble, their crops having been reaped weeks before. Upon the declivity of the mountain is seen the stately coffee-tree, the planta tions of which commence about 1300 feet above the level of the sea, and proceed up the hill till they reach the height of 4000 feet. Nothing can be more beautiful than a full-grown coffee-plantation: the deep green foliage, the splendid bright-red berry, and the delicious shade afforded by the trees, render those spots altogether fit for princes ; and princely lives their owners lead.

One is always sure of a hearty welcome from these gentlemen, who are ever glad to see a stranger. They give him the best horse in the stable to ride, the best room in the house to occupy, and express regret when his visit is drawing to a close. I speak from experience, having put the hospitality of several of them to the test. During my first stay at Batavia, from 1923 to 1826, the celebrated Java war broke out, the so-called rebel army being headed by a native Chief of Djock djocarta, named Diepo Nogoro. Shortly after the first outbreak, the then Governor-General, Baron Vander Capellen, called on all Europeans between the ages of sixteen and forty-five to serve in the schuttery, or militia. An infantry and a cavalry corps were formed, and I joined the latter, preferring a ride in the evening to a walk with a fourteen-pound musket over my shoulder.

After a probation of pretty tight drilling, we became tolerable soldiers, on "nothing a day and finding ourselves," and had the good town of Batavia put under our charge, the regular troops being all sent away to the scene of war. As I do not intend to return to the subject, I may as well mention here, that the war lasted five years, and that it would have lasted five years longer, had Diepo Nogoro not been taken prisoner — I fear by treachery. I saw him landed at Batavia, in 1829, from the steamer which had brought him from Sa marang. The Governor's carriage and aides-de camp were at the wharf to receive him. In that carriage he was driven to gaol, whence he was ba nished no one knows whither; and he has never since been heard of. Such is the usual fate of Dutch prisoners of state ! Diepo Nogoro deserved a better fate.

He was a gallant soldier, and fought bravely. Poor fellow ! how his countenance fell — as well it might — when he saw where the carriage drew up ! He stopped short on putting his foot on the pave ment, evidently unwilling to enter the gloomy looking pile ; cast an eager glance around ; and, seeing there was no chance of escape, walked in. Several gentlemen followed, before the authorities had the door closed, and saw the fallen chief, with his two wives, consigned to two miserable-looking rooms. Java has been quite tranquil ever since. The society of Batavia, at the time I am referring to, was both choice and gay ; and the influence of my good friends threw me at once into the midst of it. The Dutch and English inhabitants did not then (nor do they now) mix together so much as would, in my opinion, have been agreeable and mutually b advantageous.

A certain jealousy kept the two par ties too much apart. Nevertheless, I have been present at many delightful parties in Dutch families, the pleasures of which were not a little heightened by the presence of some ten or a dozen charming Dutch girls. Charming and beautiful they certainly are while young ; but, ere they reach thirty, a mar vellous change comes over their appearance: the fair-haired, blue-eyed, laughing romp of eighteen has, in that short period of ten or twelve years, become transformed into a stout and rather elderly looking matron, as unlike an English woman of the same age as one can well fancy. When I look back on those gay and pleasant parties, and think how few of the individuals who composed them are now alive, the reflection makes me sad. What a different class its English inhabitants of the present day are from those of 1823 — 1826 !

I may be prejudiced in favour of the former state of society ; but, in giving the preference to it, I shall be borne out by any of the few survivers who knew Batavia at both periods. From 1823 to 1835, the Governor's parties were thronged with our countrymen and countrywomen. Let any one enter His Excellency's ball-room now a-days, and he will not meet with more than one or two English of the old school, and not one of the new. The causes of this change are obvious : it arises from the different class of people that now come out from Liverpool, Manchester, and Glasgow, compared with the British merchant of former times, and from the total deficiency of the most common civility, on the part of our countrymen, towards the many highly respectable, agreeable, and intelligent Dutch families that form the society of the place.

It is with pain I write this ; but, as a citizen of the world, who has seen a good deal of life, in recording my sentiments on these matters, I cannot avoid telling the plain truth as it struck me from personal observation. The vicinity of Batavia affords the most beautiful drives ; and hundreds of vehicles, from the handsome carriage and four of the Member of Council to the humble buggy of the merchant's clerk, may be seen every evening, from five till half-past six, that being the coolest and best time for taking out-of-door exercise. The roads are excellent, lined on both sides with trees, which keep them shaded and cool nearly all day. The scene is altogether gay, and affords a gratifying indication of the wealth and importance of this fine colony. By seven o'clock, the drives are deserted ; and, immediately afterwards, lights may be seen glittering in every dwelling in the neighbourhood, while, in every second or third house, the passer-by may observe parties of pleasure assembling for the evening.

The Dutch have adopted the social plan of exchanging friendly visits in the evening, avoiding our more formal ones of the morning. At these chance evening parties (if I may so term them), the company are entertained with music and cards, and other diversions ; and should the visiter be too old to join the young folks in their gayety, he will find one or two of his own standing snugly seated in the far corner of the verandah, where he is sure to be supplied with a good cigar and the very best wine. These groupes are per fect pictures of comfort and content. With all his good qualities, however, " John Dutchman " is jealous of "John Bull," and cannot help shewing it, particularly in commercial matters. How short-sighted his policy is, in this point of view, it would be no ;fficult task to prove.

The pleasantest months of the year, in Batavia, are, June, July, and August, when the sun is to the northward. I have frequently found a blanket ne cessary at this season : indeed, the nights, through out Java, are generally sufficiently cool to allow the European to enjoy a refreshing sleep, after which he will find no difficulty in getting through a hot day. The public health is generally very good from May till September inclusive. In April and October, strangers, particularly the recently arrived Euro pean, are apt to suffer from colds and fever, caused, in a great measure, by the breaking-up of the monsoon, which takes place in those months. In November or December, the north-west monsoon brings on the rains, which certainly then come down in torrents, and render the city of Batavia a perfect charnel-house for those poor Natives and Chinese who are unfortunately compelled to remain in it.

I have seen it entirely flooded with water, to the depth of four or five feet in some parts. The malaria occasioned by the deposit of slimy mud left all over the town by the water, on its retiring, causes sad havoc among the poorer Chinese and Malays, who reside in the lowest parts of the town, and inha bit wretched hovels. These floods seldom annoy the inhabitants of the suburbs ; yet I well remember, in the season of 1828, a friend of mine lay down on a sofa and went to sleep, about eight o'clock in the evening : at three next morning, he awoke with the water just reaching his couch, much to his surprise and no small alarm, till, on becoming collected, he bethought him of the cause. The neighbouring river had risen, from mountain rains, whilst he was asleep, and had completely flooded his house, to the depth of eighteen inches, together with the garden and neighbourhood.

I know no market, east of the Cape of Good Hope, better supplied with fruit than that of Batavia. Among the choicest, I would name the mangistan, the durian, and the pumaloe or shaddock. The first is un known beyond eight degrees from the Equator, and is, perhaps, the best fruit with which nature has blessed the tropical regions. It is about the size of an orange, its rind of a dark purple, and its pulp divided into parts like the contents of an orange, as white as driven snow. Its taste I cannot attempt to describe, knowing nothing to which I can compare it. The best quality of the mangistan is its perfect harmlessness. The patient suffering from fever, liver complaint, consumption, or any of the numerous ills that flesh is heir to, may, with perfect impunity, cool his parched tongue with a dozen of this delightful fruit ; and no one who has not been laid on a sick bed within the tropics, can appreciate this blessing.

The rind, when dried, and made into tea, is an excellent tonic, and is often successfully used in cases of dysentery, by Native as well as European practitioners. The durian is a favourite fruit with most people who can overcome its smell, which cer tainly is no very easy matter. Natives of all classes are passionately fond of this fruit, and almost subsist on it when in plenty. Strange to say, goats, sheep, poultry, and even the royal tiger, eagerly devour the durian, of which I confess myself, notwithstanding the aforesaid smell, an admirer, in common with many of my countrymen. Its size is that of a cocoa nut, husk and all ; its rind is very thick, of a pale green colour, and covered with strong sharp thorns ; its interior is divided into compartments, each of which contains three or four seeds about the size of a pullet's egg ; these seeds are covered, to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, with a pale yellow pulp, which is the part eaten.

The taste resembles, according to the description of those who like the fruit, that of a very rich custard, and, according to those who have never succeeded in overcoming their antipathy to the smell, that of a mixture of decayed eggs and garlic. This fruit can not be eaten in large quantities with impunity by Europeans, being of a very heating nature. With me it never agreed ; nor do I remember a single instance of its agreeing with my countrymen, when eaten freely. Half a one is as much as most people can manage at a time. The durian seeds, when roasted, make an excellent substitute for chestnuts. The shaddock of Java is a magnificent fruit, and surpasses those of any other country with which I am acquainted. In addition to these three prime fruits of Java, I may mention the pine-apple, soursop, rambutan, rose-apple, guava, dookoo, and sixty different kinds of plantain and banana.

These, and many others, thrive and abound on this favoured island. With poultry, butchers' meat, fish, and vege tables, Batavia and Java generally are abundantly supplied ; while the residents on its mountains may enjoy strawberries and cream in perfection.

Chapter II. Java

SAMARANG A TIGER FIGHT — JAVA PONEYS — EXCURSION TO SOLO WILD SPORTS DJOCKDJOCARTA — REMAINS OF THE ANCIENT PALACE IMPERIAL ELEPHANTS EXPE- RIMENT IN INDIGO-PLANTING JAVANESE EXECUTION A PET BOA ALLIGATORS FOREST LABOUR SLAVERY IN JAVA OPIUM-SMOKING TEA THE UPAS-TREE. -Between three and four hundred miles eastward of Batavia, on the north coast of Java, is the small, neat, old-fashioned town of Samarang, which, when I visited it in 1824, was the residence of several English merchants : now, there is only a single one remaining, so completely has monopoly destroyed mercantile enterprise ! The harbour is a safe one in the south-east monsoon, but the reverse when the north-west winds prevail. It is, however, constantly visited by European shipping, which take cargoes of coffee, sugar, rice, &c. &c, to all parts of Europe, Australia, Singapore, and China.

The circumstance at this distance of time most clear and distinct in my memory, in connection with my first visit to Samarang, is a tiger-fight, which I will attempt to describe. The exhibition took place on an extensive plain near the town, just after day break. A square of men, armed with the native spear, was formed three deep, and one hundred yards across. Inside this square was placed a box resem bling in shape a coffin, but much larger, containing a royal tiger fresh from his native forests, which had been brought to town the day previously for this ex press purpose. Imagine every thing ready, the square formed, the box in its centre, and a silent multitude looking on, — some perched on trees, some on the coach boxes of the numerous carriages, others on horseback, and thousands on foot ; whilst the native chief of the district, with his friends, and the European officials of the place, occupied a gay pavilion, placed in an ad vantageous situation for viewing the coming strife.