Through the Holy Land. Being a tour in Egypt, Palestine, Syria, Asia Minor, and Greece, etc

Front matter

JERUSALEM. THROUGH THE HOLY LAND BEING A TOUR IN EGYPT, PALESTINE, SYRIA, ASIA MINOR, AND GREECE; RETURNING VIA ITALY, SWITZERLAND, AND FRANCE. BY T. DARGUE. LONDON: HAMILTON, ADAMS, & CO., 32 PATERNOSTER ROW, E.C. 1889. \_All rights reserved^ Richard Clay & Sons, Limited, London & Bungay. TO THE READER. When I set out for the East my more familiar friends requested me to write down notes of our travel. At that time my farthest thought was that I should ever write for a Avider public than that which comprised our home circle ; and it was solely for their pleasure that I elaborated my diary into the form which it has now assumed. Under the pressure of a pretty Avide circle of acquaintances, I have at last consented to publish it. It must be clearly understood that I have set down only such facts as came under my own personal observation, and if these do not constitute "the whole truth," they are at the same time " nothing but the truth."

This being so, I have little fear that what I have written can be seriously gainsaid or contradicted. At all events, I have nothing to be afraid of. With regard to all other matters, I must ask the reader to be charitable. It has been said that it is an easy matter to write a book ; but even if this be granted, there is still the difficulty of getting people to read it. And this perhaps applies Avith peculiar force to works on the subject of which I have To the Reader. IV treated. Books on the Holy Land are now-a-days much more common than they once were. Had I written in a fabulous way, drawing freely on the riot of my imagination, maybe I had written a more amusing book, and found a greater number of readers. What I have Avritten, however, I have Avritten. My style and methods will doubtless be criticized, but I make bold to believe that my facts will remain unimpeached.

As I have said, had I had any notion that I Avas to write a book my plan might have been far othenvise. However, it is as it is, and I now present it to a charitable public. T. DARGUE. Burnside Hall, Kendal. February, 1889. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Burneside Hall To Brindisi

Leaving Home — -London Fogs — Dover — Calais — Paris — Modano — Turin — Bologna — Piananza and Fortifications — Riggio — Thoughts of Home ... ... p. i

Chapter II. Brindisi To Cairo

Sickness — Capalonia — Cherigo — African Coast — Egyptian Boatmen — Alexandria — Pompefs Pillar — Garden and Palace ... ... ... ... ... p. 8 :

Chapter III

Cairo — Bazaars — News from Home — A Native Band — Pyramids of Ghizeh — Lybian Sphinx — Fellowheen — Egyptian Funeral — Old Cairo- — Joseph's Well — Driving — Heliopolis — Mary's Tree — An Ostrich Farm — Boulack Museum — Baba Sheen — A Donkey Ride — Rameses II. — Sacred Bulls — Mosque of Omer — A Turkish Wedding ... ... ... ... p. 12

Chapter IV. Cairo To Jaffa

Extensive Ruins — Tel-el-Kebir — Cemetery — Ismalia — Suez Canal — Port Said — Dragoman ... p. 23

Chapter V. Jaffa To Jerusalem

House of Simon the Tanner — House of Dorcas— Plains of Sharon — Hazor — Lydda — Ramleh or Arimathea — Lepers — Ajalon — Kirjath feram — Elah ... p. Contents. VI

Chapter VI. Jerusalem

Walk round the City — Mount Calvary — Church of the Holy Sepulchre — Fruit Market — Bethany — Mount of Olives — Harem Enclosure — Gethsemane — Solomon's Quarries — Lepers — The King's Gardens — Mount Scopus — A Sabbath iii Jerusalem — English Schools p. 29

Chapter VII

Golgotha — Shepherd and Sheep — Valley of Hinnom — Fountain of Siloam — Russian Pilgrims — Virgin's House — Christ's Church on Zion's Hill ... p. 48

Chapter VIII

Plains of Rephaim — Rachel's Tomb — Solomon's Pool and Gardens — Bethlehem — Dead Sea — Jordan — Gilgal — Jericho — Elisha s Fountain — Valley of Achor — Brook Cherith — Samaritan ' s Inn — Bethany — Mosque of Omar — David's Tower — Turkish Soldiers ... p. 52

Chapter IX. Leaving Jerusalem

Tombs of the Kings — The City of Nob — Ramah of Benjamin — Beroth — Bad Roads — Bethel — Robbers' Fountain — Singil ... ... ... ... p. 74

Chapter X. Singil To Nablous

Shiloh — Eli — Hannah and her Samuel — Alaidens of Shiloh — Racing — Arabian Horses— Jacob' s Well — Joseph in Egypt— Joseph' s Tomb — Drinking Customs — Ebal — Gerizim — A Storm — Shechem — Jewish Synagogue — City of Refuge ... ... p. 8 Contents. VII

Chapter XI. Shechem To Nazareth

A Native Lady's Misfortune — Samaria — Ramah — Botha n — Jinin or Enganum — Little Hermon — Gilboa — Gideon' s Fountain — Shunem — Nain — Endor — Mount Tabor — Iksal — Nazareth ... ... ... p. 95

Chapter XII. Nazareth To Galilee

Cana of Galilee — Marriage Feast — Ramah — Lubech — Horns of Hattin — Tiberias — Sea of Galilee — Hot Sulphur Baths — Boats and Boatmen — Capernaum, the Home of Christ ... ... ... ... p. 1 1 2

Chapter XIII. Sea Of Galilee To

CÆSAREA PHILIPPI. Turkish Rule — Bad Roads — Bedouins — Lake Huleh, or Waters of Merom — Hazor — Natives — Dan — Bainas — Cæsarea Philippi — A Druse Funeral ... p. 126

Chapter XIV

CÆSAREA PHILIPPI TO DAMASCUS. Mount Hermon — Druse Wedding — Beit Jenin — Bad Roads — Cafr Hauwar — Place of Paul's Conversion — Damascus — The Oldest City in the World — Its History — House of sudas — Bazaars ... p. 133

Chapter XV. Damascus To Beyrout

Mahomefs Paradise — View of Hermon — Fountain of Fijeh — Tomb of Abel — Zebdany — Plains of Bukaa — Ancient Mill — Lebanon Mountains — Great Plain — ___ Race — Ruins of Baalbek — Noah's Tomb — Beyrout — Passengers on board the " Apollo " ... ... p. 144

Chapter XVI. From Beyrout To Smyrna

Cyprus — Silicia — Rhodes — Cos — Patmos — A Rough Sea — Kios — Smyrna — Ephesus — Conceited Dragoman — Mode of Travelling — Drinking Customs ... p. 1 5 Contents. VIII

Chapter XVII. Smyrna To Athens

Gambolling Porpoises — Eastern Sunrise — Cape Simeon — Piræus — Athens — Academy — Temple of Jupiter — Arch of Adrian — Temple of Bacchus — Parthenon — Mars' Hill — Socrates' House — Theseus' Temple — Ancient Cemetery — Golden Chairs and Throne ... p. 165

Chapter XVIII. Athens To Corinth, Patros, And Brindisi

Leaving Athens — A Mixed Company — A Strange Romantic Pass — A Dangerous Bridge — Breathless Suspense — Isthmus of Corinth — New Canal — Ancient Corinth — Modern Corinth — -The great Apostle Paul — His Labours — Winter and Summer — Patros — On Board the ' Thessaly' — A Beautiful Night — Golden Waters — A Rough Sea — Brindisi ... ... ... p. 1 7 1

Chapter XIX. Brindisi To Milan

Our Last Friends — Sight of Vesuvius — -Journey to Vesuvius — Its Ascent — Crater — Explosions — Lava — Dimensions — Dangerous Railway — Naples— City — Harbour — Hotel — Rome — Places of Interest — Worship — — Florence — Cathedral — Picture - Galleries — Venice — Streets of Water — Campanile — Milan — Cathedral Worship — Music ... ... ... ... p. 178

Chapter XX. Milan To London

Good Hotel — Frightful Pass — St. Gothard's Pass — Its Ascent — Descent — Spiral Railway Tunnel — Curious Mode of Conveying Wood — Avalanches of Snow — Great Tunnel — Lake Lucerne — Alpine Scenery — Tunnels and Waterfalls— Bale, &>c. — France — Calais — Dover — London — Reasons for Travelling, &>c. — A Review of Palestine ... ... ... p.

Chapter I. Burneside Hall To Brindisi

Leaving Home — London Fogs — Dover — Calais — Paris — Modano — Turin — Bologna — Piananza and Fortifications — Riggi° — Bologna — Thoughts of Home. At last the long-looked-for hour has arrived. We have bid farewell to our loved ones for a time, and are on our Avay to London. Here Ave make the final arrangements for our long journey in the East. This will take us through France, Italy, Egypt, Palestine, Syria, Asia Minor, and Greece ; returning vid Brindisi, Naples, Rome, Florence, Venice, Milan, Basle, Calais, and thence to our starting-point — London. The capital of the Avorld Avas wrapped in a dense fog, and we saw but little of the great city. Starting from Holborn Ave left the fog behind, and soon were en route for Dover. Canterbury, with its noble cathedral, was soon passed ; and the journey afforded us a sight of the beautiful hop and fruit gardens of the south.

Once B ■ 2 at Dover, the good steam-ship Victoria and a luncheon were awaiting us, and soon we were out in mid-channel. From the deck of the vessel the bright, white cliffs of Albion could be seen on one side, and the French coast on the other. Calais reached, we were overhauled by Custom officers, after which we set out for Paris. Of course, know ing nothing of French, the conversation about us was a perfect Babel. We travelled over a tract of poor land chiefly sown with wheat, but so wet that the crops were anything but promising. Paris was reached at 7.45, and, wearied with much travel ling, we were pleased to find ourselves at the Hotel St. Petersburg, where we were well cared for in every sense. Next morning (Jan. 24) we went out to see the city. It is a really grand place, and far exceeded my greatest expectations.

The fine straight streets are Avide, and the arboriculture of the city adds much to its beauty. As in London, many of the streets are either cemented or paved with wood, and the vehicles run nearly noiselessly. On the evening of the 24th of January we were on our way to Turin ; and the following morning showed us a snoAv-covered landscape. I suppose the mountainous district through which Ave were pass ing gave us our first peep of Switzerland. The barren and sterile appearance of the country here about was not unlike the valley between Lowgill and Tebay in Westmoreland. Later we found ourselves in a wild and awfully rugged valley, the Burneside Hall to Brindisi. 3 mountains towering to a tremendous height on either hand, and just now the mists cleared and shoAved us the surrounding country.

After breakfasting at Modano Ave approach Mont Cenis, and find that we have run four hundred and twenty-eight miles from Paris. Nearing the moun tain, the scenery of the long valley is magnificent. The summits of the rocky mountains are covered with spruce and fir, whilst the lower belts are terraced for the cultivation of vines. We are now near to the St. Gothard Pass, and soon plunge into the tunnel of Mont Cenis. Exactly thirty minutes elapse before we emerge from it, and find ourselves in Italy. Upon its first appearance the country has a poverty stricken appearance. Snow several feet deep is lying in patches here and there, but this is left behind as Ave get further into the country. Even here, hoAvever, the Ioav land is poor and thin, and generally uncultivated. The vines stretch further toAvards the mountain summits, some of the latter being terraced almost to the top.

Although the climate is good, the yield of the land is small, OAving to the poorness and lightness of the soil. As we progress we pass a flock of goats — the first we have seen for hundreds of miles. As Ave near Turin the land improves and is better cultivated. It yields rice and Indian corn, some of the latter still standing in stacks. A fine, open country, with good land, lies before us. Altogether Turin is not comparable to Paris, though its river, the Po, is a noble one. B On the following morning I was first afoot, though I felt tired, not having slept much. Although our dinners and luncheons may even be described as sumptuous, the breakfasts are just as plain. The morning meal consists of bread and butter, Avith tea and coffee. ' The bread is good, but the same cannot be said of the butter.

This is perfectly white, and probably made from goats' milk. Coavs are rare here, and have the bulk of the field Avork to do ; while it is a not uncommon sight to see a pair yoked to a cart. In Turin itself horses are plentiful, those in private carriages being quite superior ones. Leaving Turin for Bologna, we run through a fine level country, though OAving to its being under snow nearly nothing can be seen as to its cultivation. The land is divided by ditches Avith mulberry trees on each side. No cattle, sheep, or goats are to be seen in the fields, the Avhole landscape, in fact, looking rather desolate. Just uoav we are having a characteristic touch of a continental raihvay. But little traffic runs along the single line, Avhich is nearly Avithout cuttings, and only an occasional bridge.

The trains run at a slow rate ; though Ave have some little compen sation in this, seeing they stop at but few stations. Soon after lunching at Alessandria, we pass a large farmhouse, where four or five waggons draAvn by bullocks are carting manure. Here the land is sadly over-run by moles, all along the line their little mounds being visible above the snow. We now near a more populous district, passing several Burneside Hall to Brindisi. 5 considerable toAvns, the names of which we were unable to learn. On most of the hills stands a little church or monastery. These are probably all Roman Catholic places of worship, Protestant ones being rare. The deepest snow we have as yet encountered is at Piananza. This is a large forti fied town, having a stupendous wall of immense height and breadth, and encircled by a moat.

This town was the scene of a terrible battle between the French, Italians, and Austrians, and is still strongly fortified. Parma brings us to deep snoAV again, the roads having to be cut through it. Passing through these we seem to be progressing betAveen marble walls. Severe frost and snow are very unusual occurrences in this part of the world. The snoAV continues Avith us to Riggio ; and at last we arrive at Bologna. This is a fine Availed city, Avith large buildings, and leaning towers. To prevent avalanches of snow from the house-tops upon the passers below, men were busy clearing and piling it in every available corner. January 27. — Rose at 6 a.m. and walked round the city, then retired for rest. This is in view of a twenty-six hours' ride, the hardest stage we are to experience, and I, for one, wish it were over.

At 4 p.m. we leave for Brindisi, and are not displeased to see the snow getting less and less, until it quite vanishes. Soon we are running parallel with the sea, and could see the surf dashing up. This caused unpleasant sensations within me, and made me heartily wish that I were at home. The feeling of being unwell passed off as we left the sea, how ever, and when daylight came we saw several teams of gray oxen ploughing. In the distance rose the Maratine Alps, some of them towering to a tremendous height. The slow travelling is exceed ingly tedious ; we have been running nearly all night, probably at a not greater speed than twenty miles an hour. The only advantage of this is that one sees the country better. The morning opened fine, but it is no.v clouded, and in the distance the sea seems rough.

We have entered a fine level strip of country, sown with grain or rye-grass, the whole looking well. A drove of cattle which were being driven to market for beef seemed heavy beasts on short legs, and had the appearance of having been Avorked. As already remarked, most of the agricultural work in Italy is done by oxen. The olive here is cultivated, and just now is in full leaf. As yet the fig-trees are quite bare, though they look bright and healthy. One of the unpleasant elements of continental travelling are long fasts. Although it is now lo a.m. we have tasted nothing since four yesterday ; and consequently have to be content with feasting our eyes on the scenery. We are now in an elevated district of grass land, which is grazed by a breed of white faced sheep, very short and bare in the wool.

The fields and gardens here are as forward as ours in England in May. The potatoes and both cabbages and cauliflowers will soon be ready for use. We find ourselves much refreshed by a wash Burnes ide Hall to Brindisi. 7 and luncheon at Forgia, but soon pass on. Our journey takes us through as fine a country as can well be imagined, Avhere the corn is in as full blade as it will be about home by June. Here is a pretty pastoral scene. A large flock of sheep and lambs are feeding among a grove of fig-trees, whilst the natives are quietly scratching the soil Avith primitive wooden ploughs drawn by oxen. One field Ave passed had no less than eleven yokes thus engaged. As we pass on in a south-Avestern direction, the fields become larger, and the crops nearer maturity, until the ruddy corn looks as though it is almost ready for the sickle.

Another sign of forwardness noted is a flock of sheep Avith lambs almost as large as themselves. Still passing on we come to a tract where oranges and lemons are growing, though even here the chief fruits are the olive, fig, and vine. About 7 p.m. the same evening we arrive at Brindisi, which does not impress us greatly. The steamer Avhich is to convey us to Alexandria has not yet arrived, but subsequently Ave learn that it put into port about two next morning.

Chapter II. Brindisi To Cairo

Sickness — Capalonia — Cherigo— African Coast— Egyptian Boatmen — Alexandria — Pompey's Pillar — Garden and Palace. We left Brindisi at 8 a.m. on Sunday, on board the Austrian Lloyd steamer Thalia, a nearly neAv vessel, but faulty. After breakfast Ave sat on deck, but, owing to the roughness of the sea, were soon driven below. Sickness soon became prevalent, so much so, in fact, that it affected even the sailors. The plight we were in was a pitiable one, and Avhen the dinner-bell sounded at 6 p.m. only eight out ofa possible sixty-three first-class cabin passengers re sponded. But these dAvindled as dinner progressed, one by one quietly vanishing to their privacy below. The numbers at table increased, however, day by day, and probably every one was better for the un pleasant experience. On the morning of the 30th I was abroad at 6 a.m., and going on deck found that we were in sight of Capalonia.

This is the island where most of the currants are grown that are imported to England. Two hours later we breakfasted, but again, owing to sickness, only a Brindisi to Cairo. 9 small number of passengers put in an appearance. Our vessel, owing to being insufficiently laden, rolled about in the trough of the sea like a tub. She is well fitted, however, much better than others we have seen. To-day is a pleasant contrast to yesterday. It is fine and bright, and quite warm in the sun. All day Ave have sighted the coast of Greece, and passing it, we come opposite to an island called locally Cherigo. Candia we shall probably pass during the night. January 31. — The morning opened with a rough sea and considerable wind, but bright and clear. This had the effect of but bringing up a few to breakfast, and as we were out of sight of land this also took away from the interest.

A capital dinner, consisting of eight or nine dishes, Avas served in the evening, though I would willingly have changed them all for a good chop or steak. After dinner the Aveather becomes worse — what the sailors call a dirty sea, with wind and water rushing upon us, and the steamer rolling fearfully. This is un pleasant enough, but it has to be borne ; and then we are buoyed up with the thought that on the morrow we shall reach Alexandria. Many on board will, I know, wish they were there already, as this is the third day on Avhich they have remained in their berths. These, I am afraid, will have had a very sorry time of it. The first of February saAv me out of bed about six, and soon after I saAv the sun rise from behind the African coast, Avhich was just coming in sight. In two hours we shall be in harbour.

Now all is bustle and excitement in preparing to land. Out goes our anchor, and the ceaseless throbbing of the engines cease. And Avhat a sight on shore ! I never saw such a motley crowd, or heard such a babel of voices. There are men and boys of all colours, pulling, pushing, all striving to get nearest the boat. Whilst this is going on, every one is yelling at the top of his voice, trying, it Avould seem, Avhich could yell the hardest. The ragged croAvd, I have said, was of all colours, and it was also of all costumes, even to none at all. After Avaiting some little time, Cook's men made their appearance and rowed us ashore in a boat. Alexandria has a good quay, where large vessels can load or unload as required. On the way to our hotel, we noticed that some fine buildings Avere in course of construction, and some good houses already built.

The rear parts of the town, how ever, are wretched, and the people miserable looking in the extreme. From the dejectedness of the Jews it is at once seen that they are a despised and persecuted people. They go hobbling along, with and without shoes, and their lean, haggard, and dirty appearance is at once striking. Pompey's Pillar we saw. It is a fine shaft, and seems very old. Hence Ave drove up to the side of the old canal to see the Khedive's palace and gardens Avhich are very grand. After driving through the finest parts of the tOAvn we visited the bazaars, but did not stay long in them. On the following Brindisi to Cairo. 11 morning I was first out of bed, and soon every one Avas busy breakfasting and packing. None of us are sorry to go, as Alexandria is hardly a place Avhere Europeans, at least, would care to abide.

The people are an avaricious set, and do their utmost to get money. The land about Alexandria seems capable almost of growing anything, though it is sadly neglected. Along the marshes Ave saw many scores of oxen browsing, they being used both for ploughing and turning the Avatenvheels. These do all the field-Avork, Avhilst the ass and camel are the chief beasts of burden. Through tlie Holy Land. 12

Chapter III

Cairo — Bazaars — News from Home — A Native Band — Pyramids of Ghizeh — Lybian Sphinx — Fellowheen — Egyptian Funeral — Old Cairo — Joseph's Well — Driving — Heliopolis — Mary's Tree — An Ostrich Farm — Boulack Museum — Baba Sheen — A Donkey Ride — Rameses II. — Sacred Bulls — Mosque of Omer — A Turkish Wedding. Cairo is widely different from Alexandria. For an Eastern city, it is large, fashionable, and seems thriving. Here every one rides who can afford to do so. Asses and ponies are much used, and the carriages are comfortable. When driving about those of the higher classes have a " Sais." This is a young man, gorgeously attired, and whose business it is to run before the carriage, calling out in Turkish what is equivalent to " clear the way ! " Sometimes the man runs on mile after mile at full speed.

This curious custom brings to mind the fact that Elijah girded up his loins and ran before Ahab at the entering in to Jezreel. As Cairo is a busy city, there is no better way of seeing it than driving through its streets. The bazaars here are very fine, being stocked with all sorts of fancy A Native Baud. 13 goods. In this connection the Turkish department is by far the best ; it has a separate branch for each trade — goldsmiths, silversmiths, makers of head-gear, and a large variety of trinkets. We noticed a splendid display of fruit, all of Avhich AAras remarkably cheap. Calling at Messrs. Cook's offices, Ave received the first letters from home. Only those who have experienced it can imagine the pleasure which these give, especially Avhen they tell of our loved ones being well. In the evening we went to the Central Park to hear a military band !

The thirty-four performers of which the band consisted played very well, but the shrillness of their instruments took away something of the pleasure. The men certainly blew Avith a ven geance. Here we stayed at the New Hotel, as many as a hundred of us sometimes sitting down to dinner — a dinner which Avas prolonged over an hour and a half, which to most of us grew very tedious. February 24. — A fine, bright, summer-like morn ing, and one admirably suited for our journey to the Pyramids of Ghizeh and the Sphinx. Our party consisted of eight, conveyed in two carriages. We passed the barracks, crossed the Nile by a good iron bridge, then through the Khedive's grounds. After leaving here we entered a long avenue of acacias, nearly four miles long. The cooling shade was very pleasant, especially as overhead was a burning sun.

Our Avay being narrow, Ave Avere frequently stopped by trains of camels laden with clover, and coming to Cairo. The land on each side us is very productive, and thus early in the year Ave saw acres of clover three feet in height, and the various varieties of grain looked equally well. At length Ave reached the pyramids, and pre pared for the ascent, which is both difficult and dangerous. Among the Bedouins is a sheikh who is responsible for all the arrangements, and to me he allotted three strong men. One Avas to take hold of each hand, the third to push behind, and sure enough they had their work cut out. Soon we started, and the climb proved a more difficult one than I had anticipated. By the time Ave had got half-way I was exhausted, and had to sit doAvn and rest; and, by the Avay, my helpers Avere ready to rest too.

I saw them exchange glances, and mutter something, Avhich, being interpreted, probably meant that they were having heavy work. In two minutes, however, the struggle was again commenced. My guides fre quently asked for backsheesh, but I told them they would get nothing until we got safely to the ground again. At the same time I doubted whether I should ever have the pleasure of giving anything to any one again, as I could plainly see that a slip or a false step would certainly land me in eternity. I never felt more forcibly than then how little there is between us and death. At last, however, we reached the top, from Avhich Ave had a splendid view of the surrounding country. Visiting the Pyramids. 15 To the east we could see far away over the Lybian desert, on which the pyramids are, and to the left we looked right up the Nile valley.

In the north is the city, with its grand mosque towering high above it, behind the white Mokattam mountains, and to the west the eye was carried far in the direction of Alexandria. Than the summit of the pyramid no finer place could be imagined to spend an hour, taking in what can be seen from it ; and if there Avas anything to take from our pleasure, it w7as the thought of how we were to get down. This Avas about to commence, and I knew it was both more difficult and exhausting than the ascent had been. One man took a long piece of calico from his head, and tied it around my waist, he keeping hold of the other end, the remaining Iavo then took hold of my hands. In this way Ave commenced dropping and leaping from step to step, and soon reached the bottom. Just before gaining the ground the guides were incessant in their calls for backsheesh, and for once I satisfied them.

Then their delight kne.v no bounds ; they patted me on the back, and repeatedly wished me Allah (God's blessing). Before nor since I have never seen Arabs so glad ; but they were not more glad than I, though the causes of our joy .vere different. From here we went to view the Sphinx. It is like a lion couchant, having a human face ; it is really much disfigured, and not to be compared to the pyramids in interest. After luncheon we regained our carriages, and set off for Cairo, followed by the salaams of the poor Arabs. My liberal backsheeshing had quite excited them, and I beleive them kind-hearted fellows if fairly treated. On our AA7ay back AA7e met the camels and their drivers that we had seen conveying clover to the city. The Egyptian Fellowheen are a poor-looking lot, badly clothed, badly fed, and only the climate keeps them up.

In England they would assuredly starve. We are tired by the time we get to Cairo, and are glad to be back again in the city. February 5. — This being our Sabbath, Ave breakfasted at eight, and then had a short walk before going to church. As Ave went about Ave Avere pained to see that Sunday was just as busy as any other day of the Aveek. Artisans of various trades Avere at work, and frequently we met asses and camels laden with stone and lime. Vendors of bread and fish bawled at the top of their voices, as though their lives depended on the success of their trade. The Mahommedans have Friday and the JeAvs Saturday for their Sabbath. Cairo, like Alexandria, presents a strange mixture of races of all nations. The small church Avhich we attended seated about three hundred persons, and Avas .veil filled Avith visitors and soldiers.