Dottings round the Circle. (A panoramic picture of several of the chief countries of the world.)

Front matter

DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. BY BENJAMIN ROBBINS CURTIS. BOSTON: JAMES E. OSGOOD AND COMPANY, Lath Ticknob & Fields, and Fields, Osgood, & Co. 1876. Copyright, 1876. By JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO. University Press: Welch, Bigelow, & Co., Cambridge. TO ANDREW FISKE, WHO ACCOMPANIED ME IN THE MAJORITY OF THESE WANDERINGS, I Pcbicatc tljiss fotrrnal, AS A TOKEN OF GRATITUDE FOR THE CONTINUAL PLEASURE HIS COMPANIONSHIP AFFORDED ME. PEEFACE. It has been said of one of the greatest minds that the world has ever produced, that " he dotted round the circle of human knowledge." With all due mod esty for making use of the comparison, I offer to the public these " Dottings," made in a journey around the world. Starting immediately after my graduation at Harvard, I set out upon a tour of the world, equipped with a large number of desirable letters of introduction.

By their means I was presented to some of the prominent people in the East, and by their kind favor I was shown what was deemed by them worthy of notice. The result of my observations I now lay before the pubhc. In the course of such rapid travel it cannot be expected that any deep political or ethnical investi gations have been attempted. I simply offer a pano ramic picture of several of the chief countries of the world.

Preface

. VI I have said but little in regard to my wanderings in Europe. So much has been written of Italy and France and England, that I have merely noted my arrival in the different cities, and the impressions I derived from the most important. If I can interest any to such a degree that they will wish to see for themselves these wonders of the world so imperfectly described, I shall feel happy in the thought that my past pleasure will be experienced afresh by others. B. E. C. Boston, October, 1876. CONTENTS. CHAPTEE I. Page From Boston to Salt Lake City 1 Departure. — A Sunday at Niagara Falls. — Detroit. — Chicago. — St. Louis. — A Freshet on the Plains. — Denver. — Up the Rocky Mountains on a Cow-Catcher. — Central City. — Idaho Springs. — Cheyenne. — Ogden. — Arrival at Salt Lake City. CHAPTEE II.

From Salt Lake Citt to the Yosemite Valley .... 19 Salt Lake City. — An Interview with Brigham Young. — A Bath in the Great Salt Lake. — Ogden to Stockton. — Starting for the Yosemite. — Four Days on the Road. CHAPTEE III. From the Yosemite Valley to the Pacific Ocean .... 36 Excursions in the Yosemite. — Stockton to San Francisco. — The " Chinese Quarter." — Embarkation for Japan. CHAPTEE IV. Across the Pacific to Japan 54 The P. M. S. S. Co.'s Great Republic. — My Fellow-Passengers. — The Long Sea -Voyage. — Arrival at Yokohama. CHAPTEE V. From Yokohama to Yedo 68 Yokohama. — A Japanese Theatre. — Inoshima. — Daibutsu. — Kamakura. — The Railroad to Yedo. CONTENTS. CHAPTEE VI. Yedo 87 Description of the City. — Shiba. — Atago Yama. — Uy eno. — Asakusa. CHAPTEE VII. Yokohama to Shanghai 101 Yokohama to Kobe. — Osaka. — The Inland Sea. — Across the Yellow Sea to China. — Shanghai. — " Chin-chin-ing the Moon."

CHAPTEE VIII. Shanghai to Pekin 115 Shanghai to Che-foo. — A Storm in the Gulf of Pe-chi-li. — Tien-tsin. — Overland to Pekin. — A Chinese Inn. — Arrival at the Capital. CHAPTEE IX. Pekin to the Great Wall 130 Consultations with the Ministers. — Starting for the- Great Wall. — The Bell Temple. — Wan-shou-san. — The Ming Tombs. —The Great Wall. CHAPTEE X. Pekin 148 The City. — The Llama Temples. — The Temple of Heaven. — Curio Street. — The Imperial College and Observatory. — The Marble Bridge. — The Roman Catholic Cathedrals. CHAPTEE XI. Pekin to Canton 159 Return to Shanghai. — Amoy. — Canton. — Buddhist Temples and other Objects of Interest. CHAPTEE XII. Canton to Batavia . . . jg4 Macao. — Fan-tan Gambling. — Hong Kong. — Singapore. — Crossing the Equator. — Arrival at Batavia.

CHAPTER XIII.

Java to Ceylon „n0 Batavia. - Buitenzorg. - An Inland Trip. _ Embarkation for Ceylon' Arrival at Point De Galle. CONTENTS. IX

CHAPTER XIV.

Ceylon 210 Point De Galle. — Colombo. — Kandy. — The Royal Apartments on the Serapis. — The Preparation of the Coffee-Berry. — The Prince of Wales.

CHAPTER XV.

Ceylon to Calcutta t 222 Negapatam. — Pondicherry. — Madras. — Masulipatam. — Coconada. — Vizagapatam. — Bimlipatam. — Gopolpore. — False Point.' — Diamond Harbor. — Arrival at Calcutta.

CHAPTER XVI.

Calcutta to Benap.es 231 Christmas Eve in Calcutta. — Illumination in Honor of the Prince of Wales. — Benares. — The Ghats and Temples. — Burning the Dead. — Sarnath. CHAPTEE XVII. Lucknow, Cawnpore, and Delhi 250) Lucknow. — The Residency, and the Mutiny Days of 1857. — Curious Buildings. — Cawnpore. — Wheeler's Entrenchment and the Slaughter Ghat. —Delhi. —The Fort and Palace of the Moguls. —The- Jama Musjid. — The Kootub. — A Kautch Dance. — The Story of the Siege.

CHAPTER XVIII.

Agra and Bombay 283 The Taj of Agra. — The Pearl Mosque. — The Fort. — The Tomb of Akbar the Great. — Bombay. — The Tower of Silence. — The Caves of Elephanta. — Embarkation for Egypt. CHAPTEE XIX. Up the Red Sea to Cairo 292 Aden. — Heat on the Red Sea Suez. — Across the Desert to Cairo. — Egyptian Mosques. — Excursion to the Pyramids. — The Dancing Dervishes. — Arrival at Alexandria.

CHAPTER XX.

Alexandria to Florence 310 Alexandria. — Pompey's Pillar. —Cleopatra's Needle. — The Catacombs. — Across the Mediterranean to Brindisi. — Arrival at Florence. CONTENTS. X

CHAPTER XXI.

Italy to France 315 Florence. — Naples. — Rome. — Venice. — Milan. — Turin. — Arrival at Paris.

CHAPTER XXII.

Paris, London, and Boston 323 Notes on Paris and the French. — Arrival in London. — Embarkation at Liverpool. — The Cunard Steamship Russia. — New York to Boston.

Chapter I. From Boston To Salt Lake City

Departure. — A Sunday at Niagara Falls. — Detroit. — Chicago. — St. Louis. — A Freshet on the Plains. — Denver. — Up the Rocky Mountains on a Cow-Catcher. — Central City. — Idaho Springs. — Cheyenne. — Ogden. — Arrival at Salt Lake City. 1875, June 30. — Leaving Boston at 9 p. m. (by the Boston and Albany Railroad), I reach New York City at half past five o'clock the next morning. July 3. — After spending two days in New York City and vicinity, I leave the Grand Central Depot at 10 a. m. (by the Hudson River Railroad) for Albany, where I have agreed to meet F , my college classmate and travelling companion. The weather is fine, but decidedly warm ; but in spite of this, the journey along the bank of the Hudson is full of interest. The mountains rising from the opposite shore of the river, covered with a delicate bluish haze, look picturesque and refreshingly cool; while the different steamers passing up and down, with here and there a sail-boat for variety, keep the eye continually occupied.

We reach Albany at two o'clock, and I find I have an hour to wait before the " special express" on which F is coming will arrive from Bos ton. The time passes quickly by, and promptly at three o'clock the "special" appears, with F standing on the platform of the front car, waving his hat joyously. Soon after this we start for Niagara Falls via Rochester. Of course we have the traditional wedding couple on board ; and of course the gentleman alights at every third station, eager to pour the entire contents of the refreshment-table into his wife's lap. As evening draws on (of course) the lady, be coming weary, rests her head lovingly and confidingly on her husband's shoulder, and, with his arm encircling her, they sit absorbed in themselves, forgetful of the outside world ; while (of course) all the other passengers regard them with looks of half-pitying contempt.

The train stops at Utica for supper, and we are soon again on our way. A grand railroad this New York Central, with its four broad tracks, its com fortable cars, its powerful engines, and its numberless trains ! "We are rushing continually on, through broad cultivated fields stretching away into the distance, past populous towns and cities, or, now leaving civilization for a time, we plunge into a thick wood, or dash round a sharp cutting in the rocks, and stop suddenly at some manufacturing village, whose in habitants all turn out to give us a welcome. At 10.30 p. m. we reach Rochester, and here we must change cars for Niagara Falls. At 2 a. m. we arrive at our destination, and are shown to very comfortable rooms by the sleepy-looking clerk of the International, and, lulled by the ceaseless roar of the Falls, I drift into unconsciousness, thinking what a great State New York is, in which one can travel by express-train from ten o'clock one morning to two o'clock of the following, without leaving its limits.

July 4- — The ninety-ninth anniversary of our country's independence, though falling on a Sunday, is here ushered in by ringing of bells and an occasional fire-cracker ; the younger portion of the community, however, evidently reserving itself for the morrow. After breakfast F and I start on foot for the Falls, successfully and completely routing the continuous attacks of the hackmen and guides by my truthful reply, " I have been here before," which stops each one's importunities, and apparently affects them as the sign of the cross does the Evil One. After wandering through Prospect Park we descend by the inclined railroad, and are ferried across the river to the Canada side by a remarkably muscular Charon of French descent. Two wedded couples accompany us; and when our little boat has reached the middle of the stream, the mighty roaring cataract above us, the clouds of rising spray, and the swiftly flowing river give great alarm to the ladies, and enable the husbands to exhibit themselves in the most heroic aspects.

On the Canada side we are surrounded by traders of all kinds ; but we have been wisely warned against purchasing, as a heavy duty is exacted by the United States authorities as soon as the article purchased is carried over the border. Indeed, one gentleman got thus into quite a se rious difficulty; for having bought a tablecloth at a Canadian store, he was charged a large per cent by the United States customs officers ; and, not deeming it worth such an additional sum, he was returning with it to the shop where he had pur chased it, when he was halted on the other side by the Cana dian officials, who declared that it was a product of the United States, and requested him to deposit the usual duty before bringing it into their country. The gentleman, however, succeeded in convincing them that he had bought it in Canada, and he returned it to its original owner, declaring that he wanted to have nothing further to do with the ill-fated article.

After wandering along the Canadian side, we return by the new suspension-bridge, and, after an afternoon passed in quiet, seek sleep to prepare us for the journey of the morrow. July 5. — We leave Niagara Falls at 1 p. M. by the Michi gan Central and Great Western Railroad, and, after a some what tedious and rather uninteresting day's journey, we arrive in Detroit at 10 p. m., and drive at once to the Russell House for the night. To-day we made our first trial of a " hotel-car " ; and although the dinner is hot and the food well cooked and of good quality, still the dust and cinders pretty effectually spoil the repast; for, as the kitchen occupies a large share of these hotel-cars, it is almost impossible to keep the windows closed. July 6. — As Detroit is familiar to one of us, and as we are obliged to be in San Francisco by August 1 to take the steamer for Japan, and as there are, moreover, many new places which we wish to visit on the way, we decide to make no stop of any length at present, and a very hasty survey of Detroit is all that we can allow ourselves.

Detroit has many fine business blocks, and Woodward Avenue con tains some of the handsomest residences in the West. The large lake steamers lying at the docks give to the city an air of extended commerce which is very impressive. We leave Detroit at 9.30 a. m. by the Michigan Central Railroad, and when we have travelled about two hours the aspect of the country through which we are passing has be come thoroughly " Western." On both sides of the railroad the fences between the fields are far less numerous than in New England, probably indicating that these long stretches of rich grain are the property of a single proprietor. The towns and villages, too, look fresh and new, and the tall, keen looking men, standing about in top-boots and flannel shirts, are strange objects to our Eastern eyes.

At Kalamazoo our train rushes through a thick cloud of grasshoppers, who flutter and spread themselves over everything they meet, making it evident what serious damage they are capable of inflicting to crops over which they pass. At 7 P. M. we come in sight of Lake Michigan, and for nearly an hour our train runs close to the water, until, having rounded a curve, we see a great city spread out before us ; clouds of smoke are pouring forth out of tall chimneys; the spires of churches stand out against the sky; our train rattles across several switches, rushes into a perfect labyrinth of tracks, gives a long shrill whistle, and at last comes to a stand-still; we alight and set foot in Chicago. In 1833 Chicago was the name applied to a few houses near Fort Dearborn. In 1840 it had a population of 4,000; at present it has about 400,000.

We enter one of the many omnibuses standing near the station, and soon have obtained most comfortable quarters at the Palmer House. July 7. — After a refreshing sleep and most excellent break fast, we walk out through the principal business street of the city. "What a rush and whirl and hurry everywhere ! Everybody walks rapidly along, rarely looking in each other's faces, each mind intent on its own business; each man, apparently, eager to get to a particular place before his neighbor, each fearful lest a moment's delay may upset his plans for ever. This feverish haste is, it seems to me, far more noticeable than in New York itself. Some idea of the extent and variety of the trade of Chicago may be formed from the fol lowing: "In 1872 about 70,000,000 bushels of grain came to market, with 1,000,000,000 feet of timber, 400,000 cattle, 1,900,000 hogs, and 3,000,000 sheep.

Enormous elevators shoot the grain into the vessels at the rate of 10,000 tons a day; one vessel can be filled in twenty minutes." In the afternoon we take a carriage and drive about the city. The private residences, even on Michigan Avenue, do not satisfy my expectations. Many of the houses are built of wood, and a large majority of them look hastily constructed. The people of Chicago, however, can congratulate themselves on their fine " Boulevards," and the sight of them make me remember with regret how much Boston is in need of similar drives for her citizens. We drive next to the building con taining the complicated and ponderous machinery which draws water from a point two miles out in the lake, for the use of the city ; and, standing near this mass of iron, it hardly seems possible that it owes its very existence and movement to the comparatively small objects called men that circulate at its feet !

From the neighboring tower a fine bird's-eye view of the city can be obtained. We leave Chicago at 8 p. M. by the Chicago, Alton, and St. Louis Railroad, and reach St. Louis, our next objective point, at nine o'clock the following morning, after travelling with fearful rapidity. July 8. — After breakfasting at a comfortably late h-our at the Southern Hotel, we walk out to see the new bridge over the Mississippi River, and find it truly a wonder of engineering art and mechanical construction. We make a hasty survey of some of the principal streets of St. Louis, which seems to contain characteristics of both Northern and Southern cities; but as the heat is very oppressive, we soon return to the hotel, and endeavor to keep as cool as we pos sibly can, sitting quietly in doors. We had intended to travel without change from St. Louis to Denver, but, owing to a recent " wash-out " on the North- Missouri Railroad, we find that we shall be obliged to travel to Kansas City by the Missouri Pacific Railroad, and change there on to the Kansas Pacific Railroad, which will carry us to Denver.

So at 8 p. M. we arrive at the station of the Mis souri Pacific Railroad, and enter the Pullman car only to find that our section (which we have previously engaged) is oppo site a very colony of individuals. A mother with an elderly daughter, two small boys, a baby, and a maid, give all the rest of the passengers a mathematical as well as practical puzzle to decide how they intend to stow themselves for the night in places for a third of their number. The enigma is soon solved, however, by the mother remarking in a loud tone of voice that " she hopes some gentleman will give her a lower berth or take some of her children ! " Before F or myself are called upon to immolate our night's rest on the altar of politeness, the conductor enters and informs us that our section is the corresponding one in the car ahead ; so we leave the other gentlemen to attend to the lady's clearly expressed wish, and make our way forward, congratulating ourselves that we shall now " have peace " : but it is not to be.

We find in our section in this car a young mother with a little girl and a very young baby, the latter of whom, overcome probably by the excessive heat and want of sleep, is crying heartily. This family are merely occupying our sec tion till their own is prepared for the night; and this being accomplished, they retire, and we take possession. The poor baby cries all through the night with unfailing regularity, and when, at last, morning breaks, I am amazed to see the mother offer her children a breakfast of cold chicken, pickles, and Washington pie ! July 9. — We reach Kansas City at 8.30 A. M., and find the train for Denver waiting near by on the Kansas Pacific Rail road. We start at ten o'clock, and soon after are rushing over the desolate prairies.* Far as the eye can see, on either side of the train stretches one flat, unbroken, barren waste of land, with scarcely a living thing to break the intense silence and dreadful monotony.

Once in about two hours the train halts at a " station," — consisting of one dwelling-house, a saloon, and a few lazy-looking Indians, — and, after taking in a fresh supply of water and coal, we leave all this behind us, with no great regret. Wearied with the monotony, I go forward on to the engine, ' and persuade the engineer to let me ride with him. From here I can at least see all that the country has to show. Once, as we dash along, a great eagle rises majestically in front of us, hovers a moment near by as if filled with a sort of sad wonder at being driven away from his * In fact, in all my after-travel to San Francisco I did not find any more dreary, lonely, and uninteresting country than from Kansas City to Denver. solitary haunt, and then floats gracefully off. A little farther along we scatter a herd of antelopes, which bound quickly aside.

Having paused for half an hour at a characteristic " station " to discuss some dangerous-looking compounds called " dinner," we continue our journey. The afternoon wears wearily away ; we stop again for " supper " ; the sun sets in a mass of dark clouds, and a storm is evidently upon us. Soon the rain begins to patter down on the car-roof, accompanied by thunder, lightning, and hail. Still we rush on. Outside the car windows all is thick darkness, and the rain drops striking against the glass can plainly be heard above the noise of the train. I look over at F ; he is fast asleep, and I strive to follow his example. July 10. — We are due in Denver at 6 P. M. ; but at the station where we halt for dinner we receive the annoying news by telegraph that the thunder-storm of yesterday has washed away two bridges between us and Denver, and a long delay is inevitable.

To add to our misfortunes, it begins to rain again heavily, and a more desolate-looking car's company can hardly be found. Fortunately, however, we are halted at a little place (called Hugo) where food can be obtained. Another afternoon passes; evening closes in. What a com fortless position ! Standing still away out on a desolate prairie in a drenching rain, — drenching, for the roof of our Pullman leaks badly, and all we can do is to follow the porter's advice and " wait till it swells " ! July 11. — Sunday morning dawns, however, clear and cool ; and it seems as if Nature is determined to show us as brisht a face as possible after her gloomy aspect of yesterday. After breakfasting on what the place affords, we stroll about and endeavor to pass the time as best we can; and I cannot help thinking how differently we are spending Sunday from those in Boston : for, instead of the musical church-bells, we hear only the discordant sounds from pigs, poultry, and cattle ; and, instead of the throngs of well-dressed people bound to the different churches, we see only a few weary passengers, and an occasional Indian riding along on a mustang.

By dinner time we find that our unexpected and prolonged stay at Hugo has somewhat exhausted its culinary resources; and for this, as well as other reasons, we are delighted to hear, about 2 p. M., that the bridges have been repaired, and that we can proceed. After travelling slowly for one hundred and five miles, we finally arrive at Denver at 8 P. M., having been on the road from Kansas City fifty-eight hours ! Every one coming to Denver hears, long before his arrival, of its excellent hotels, the best, indeed, between St. Louis and Salt Lake City, — the Grand Central, the Interocean, the Sargent House, and others. Not knowing, of course, exactly where they are located in the city, he will be somewhat surprised, immediately on his arrival at the station, to see directly opposite, across the square, a row of small wooden hotels, each one bearing one of these well-known names, its namesake being in reality located in a distant part of the town; and, unless one is on the lookout for this deception, it may happen that you take up your abode in one of these catchpennies before you discover your mistake.

This state of things should be sup pressed by the municipal authorities. July 12. — We spend the morning in walking about the city, which is very pleasantly situated on the south bank of the South La Platte River, with the snow-capped peaks of the Rocky Mountains rising in the distance around it. The town covers a large amount of ground, but does not seem to possess a very large number of inhabitants. Denver is re markable for the many elegantly appointed billiard and drink ing saloons and cigar-stores that meet you at every turn. The climate is cool and delightful. We leave Denver at 3.30 P. M. by the Colorado Central Railroad for a short stay among the Rocky Mountains, bound first for Central City. After riding for about an hour, we change cars on to a narrow gauge railroad, and from this point the scenery is of the very wildest description.

The road itself, built as it is along the banks of streams, and through cuts in the solid rock which now rises so high above your head that it almost shuts out the sky, is a tribute to man's superiority to the obstacles nature has placed in his way. As we stop a minute before a very steep ascent, I go forward and ask permission of the engineer to ride by his side, believing that one cannot obtain an adequate view of the magnificent scenery through which we are about to pass while sitting in the cars. The engineer, however, says that, as the road is narrow-gauge, the cab is only just big enough for himself and the fireman. " But," says he, " many Eastern men ride up this canon on the cow-catcher." After assuring me that it is perfectly safe, as he can by no means travel at express rate, he places a broad board on the cow-catcher ; and, when I have taken my seat, with my hand firmly grasping the signal-flag, the engine gives a shrill whistle, and off we start.

For the first five minutes I really enjoy my novel manner of locomotion. " This," said I, " is the very place of all others from which to view the mountains ! — to be pushed slowly up the gorge with nothing before you on the track, a towering mass of rocks on the one hand, and on the other, far below, a quickly flowing stream, hissing and gurgling over stones and fallen trees and old mill-wheels. Another five minutes passes by. I begin to speculate as to what will happen to me if, getting a little dizzy, I leap off the engine. If I spring aside to the right, I shall be crushed between the train and the towering rock; if I jump to the left, I shall be dashed to pieces on the stones of the stream far below. The result will be the same in either case, — death. Still the quickly-throbbing engine pushes me on.

As we pass through a village the inhabitants turn out and stare at the engine, amazed at the novel figure-head that it carries. The village is left behind: we are again alone, making our way up the canon ; the hot breath of the engine stifles me ; the continual swaying from side to side affects my head ; I call aloud to the engineer, but the sound of my voice is drowned in the roar of the wheels. I try to grasp the little flag-staff more firmly; it turns in its socket, and I am com pelled to trust to my hold on the bars of the cow-catcher. I do not know how long I can endure this. I almost feel that I may faint. A village is in sight ! Do we stop ? Yes, for our engine gives a loud whistle, the breaks are put down, the wheels turn more slowly; we come to a stand-still. I leap off the engine and seek the engineer.

" How far have we travelled since I got on to the engine ? " " Eight miles," is the reply. Eight miles ! I return to the car, much to F 's satisfac tion, who tells me that he happened to look out of the car window, a little while before, and, as the engine slowly rounded a curve, he was amazed to see me sitting bolt up right on the cow-catcher. At eight o'clock we arrive at the terminus of the railroad, a small mining town called " Black Hawk," where we find, waiting in the thick mist that has spread itself over everything, a comfortable omnibus bound for Central City and the Teller House, which latter spot, the best hotel in the vicinity, is to be our shelter for the night. The road winds directly up the mountain-side, and all along the way, a full half-mile, we pass straggling houses and mining buildings, with a saloon at every turn in the road.

The inhabitants, however, seem to be a sturdy, honest-looking set, and the best of order prevails everywhere. We reach the Teller House about 8.45 o'clock, and find ourselves in a very comfortable-looking hotel, surrounded by a small mining village, with high mountain-peaks rising in every direction. July 13. — After an early breakfast we ascend a neighboring spur of the mountain, and the view in every direction is wonderful. On all sides, and stretching away off into the distance, countless peaks, many snow-capped, thrust their heads upward, while a thin bluish haze floats around them, brought out into stronger relief by the excessive clearness of the air elsewhere. We visit a gold-mine near by, and find the miners very intelligent and polite. At eleven o'clock we take the outside seats on the stage bound for Idaho Springs, a neighboring town noted for its warm springs, where also you strike the direct railroad back to Denver.

Going down a mountain in Colorado on a stage-coach is no light matter ! The stage-driver shuts down the brake, and after taking a firm hold of the reins and giving a general caution to the passengers, "lets her run" away down to the foot, arriving there generally in perfect safety, but dashing and whirling round sudden turns in the road in a most alarming manner. The excellent stories, however, that one hears from these eccentric specimens of humanity almost excuse their apparent recklessness. We arrive at Idaho Springs at noon, and go at once to take a bath in the waters for which the place is celebrated. We have our choice of a tub or swimming-bath, and both prefer the latter. We find this to consist of a large square room made into a sort of tank, with about five feet of water always in it, a pipe letting the water in, and another discharging it continually.