Eighteen Years on the Gold Coast of Africa, including an account of the native tribes, and their intercourse with Europeans

Chapter I

The African continent — Its appearance from the sea — Objects of interest on approaching the shore — Unhealthiness of the climate — Interest in the elevation of the people — Ill-success of the efforts hitherto made for this purpose — The failure not attributable to the absence of any improveable quality in the negro race — Necessity of avoiding wild and fanatical schemes, and of proceeding by progressive steps — Gold Coast prepared for the reception of civilizing influences — The great requisites necessary ........ 1

Chapter II

Meagreness of our accounts respecting the Gold Coast — Early Portuguese discoveries — The Pope's grant — Trade of the Coast farmed by Fernando Gomez — Establishment of the settlement of Elmina — Importance given to African CONTENTS. IV settlements by the discovery of America — Encroachment of the Dutch — Expulsion of the Portuguese from Elmina in 1637— African trade carried on by English merchants in the reign of Edward VI.— The Company of Royal Adventurers of England trading to Africa formed in 1662 — Capture of Cape Coast Castle from the Dutch- Description of Cape Coast Castle — The town and envi rons — English, Dutch, and Danish settlements — Eager pursuit of the Slave Trade — Nature of European tenure on the Gold Coast — Demoralizing effects of the Slave Trade — Low state of morality among the Europeans — No advantages conferred by us during the whole course of the Slave Trade 12

Chapter III

Geographical description of the country — Origin of the Fantees — Similarity of language among a variety of tribes — Traditions of former greatness — Classification into twelve tribes — The progress of the Ashantee power — Sai-Tootoo — His conquests and death — Apokoo — Aquassie — Battle near the Volta — Defeat of the Ashantees — Sai-Cudjoe mounts the throne — Is considered a great captain— First notice of the Ashantees in the records of Cape Coast Castle during this reign — Sai-Quamino — His deposition — First direct intercourse with the Kings of Ashantee — Review of the rise and progress of the Ashantee power . . . .40

Chapter IV

Assin divided into two principalities — Robbery of a grave by one of the chiefs — Interference of the King of CONTENTS. V Ashantee — Amoo's detention and escape — War between Cheboo and Apoutay — Treacherous conduct of Apoutay — Defeat of Amoo — Murder of the King's messengers — Flight of Cheboo — Ashantees attack Cheboo and Apoutay — Treachery of Accom, Chief of Essacoomah — Invasion of Fantee — Capture of the Dutch Fort of Cormantine by Appia Danquah — Attack on the Town and Fort of Anamaboe — Distressing scene presented to the eyes of the garrison — Relief sent from head-quarters — Impression produced on Colonel Torrane by the deportment of the King and his Captains — Shameful appropriation of the prisoners — Influence of the Euro peans ........ 62

Chapter V

The King of Ashantee sends his General, Apokoo, with a large force into Fantee — Defeat of the Fantees — Murder of Mr. Meredith by the Winnebahs — Winnebah Fort destroyed — Appiah Danquah defeats the Fantees — Destroys Winnebah and Berracoo — The Governor's mediation — Ashantees break up their camp at Abrah — The Ashantees return to Coomassie — Mission to the King — Reference made to the Governor — Mr. Hutchison appointed Resident at Coomassie — State of the country . . . . ... . .91

Chapter VI

Mr. Dupuis appointed Consul at Coomassie — Insults offered to the Ashantee Resident — Embassy sent to demand satisfaction — Dignified conduct of the messengers — Conclusion of a treaty — Disavowed by the VI CONTENTS. Governor— Mr. Dupuis leaves the Coast — Cape Coast placed in a state of blockade by the King— African Company abolished— Sir Charles M'Carthy appointed Governor— Seizure of a Sergeant in the Government service— Commencement of hostilities — Battle of Essa macow — Defeat and death of Sir Charles— Defeat of the Ashantees at Affetoo — The King encamps within sight of Cape Coast — Attack upon the lines— The King's alarm and retreat — Overthrow of the Ashantee army — Arrival of Sir Neil Campbell . . • .130

Chapter VII

The English Government resolves to abandon the Gold Coast settlements — Parliamentary grant — Formation of African Committee and of the Local Government — Mr. George Maclean appointed Governor — State of the country — Character of Mr. Maclean — Treaty of peace concluded — The Governor leads an expedition — Arrival of a Christian Missionary upon the Coast — Punishment of Cudjoe Cheboo for offering human sacrifices — Clamour against the Governor — Our position in the country with reference to slavery — Dr. Madden appointed Commissioner — The settlements placed under the immediate direction of the Crown — Commander Hill appointed Governor, and Mr. Maclean Judicial Assessor — Encroachments of the King of Ashantee — Commander Winniett visits the Kings of Dahomey and Ashantee — An officer left to settle the affairs of Appollonia — Peace established — Purchase of the Danish settlements — Death of Governor Winniett — Major Hill appointed Governor — Imposition of a poll-tax . CONTENTS. VII

Chapter VIII

Arrival of Mrs. Maclean (L. E. L.) at the Gold Coast — Her mode of life at the Castle — Intimacy with the Author — Sudden death — Inquest — Funeral — False reports respecting her . . . . .210

Chapter IX

Nature of the native Governments — Modified by customs and precedents — Despotism in Appollonia — Wassaw Chiefs controlled by their vassals — Popular influence — Nature of succession — Origin of the Chiefs' authority — Story of Bissoo — Boissorah, an Anamaboe Cabboceer, assumes his rank upon the death of a rich slave — Towns divided into Wards with Representatives — Hereditary feuds — Fights at Cormantine and Elmina — Armed processions — Pynins — Native councils — Modes of proceeding — Use of oaths — Fines consequent on disobedience — The King of Ashantee's oath — Story of the Ashantee Brothers— Oath by Sir Charles M'Carthy . . 232

Chapter X

Knowledge of the laws among the Fantees — Mode of administering justice — Corrupt judges — Circumstances under which real justice is done — Case of Oboo and Quansah — Injustice of the Pynins — More equitable decisions of the chiefs and cabboceers — Mode of examining witnesses — Torture — Oaths of purgation — Ordeals — Decisions guided by custom — Advantage of European interference . . . . .269 CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XL

Gradual progress of human society — Physical qualities the cause of distinction — Slave trade carried on by the ancients — The effect of the propagation of Mohammedanism in consolidating pagan states — The universality of slavery in an early stage of society — The strange emotions excited by the arrival of Europeans in ships — Their effect in rousing cupidity — Consequent aggravation of slavery — Effect of the discovery of America, and an organical system of slave trade — European treachery and cruelty — The instinctive slave-trading propensities of the African ..... 290

Chapter XII

Natives of the Gold Coast slaves from birth — Power of the father of a family over its relations — Predilection for marriages with relations — Perfect resignation of the members of a family to bondage — Free people — Process of enslavement through marriage — Native courts and laws — Polygamy — Superstition — Slavery greatly aggravated by famine and the export slave trade — Vassals-slaves, possessors of slaves — Necessity for a protector — Hostility of neighbouring chiefs — Great injustice in the internal government of a tribe — Order in some measure restored by the abolition of the slave trade — Illustration of the system of panyarring — The conquest of Fantee by the Ashantees — Oppressiveness of the Ashantee rule . THE GOLD COAST.

Chapter I

The African continent — Its appearance from the sea — Objects of interest on approaching the shore — Unhealthiness of the climate — Interest in the elevation of the people — Ill-success of the efforts hitherto made for this purpose — The failure not attributable to the absence of any improveable quality in the negro race — Necessity of avoiding wild and fanatical schemes, and of proceeding by progressive steps — Gold Coast prepared for the reception of civilizing influences — The great requisites necessary. The Gold Coast of Africa, extending from Asimee to the River Volta, presents a wide field for curious and varied speculation. Its sunny skies, but seldom disfigured by gloom or tempest ; vol. i. B its modulating sweep of hill and dale ; its deep, impenetrable thickets ; its magnificent forest trees, the ever-verdant freshness of its luxurious vegeta tion ; the richness of its mineral wealth, still shrouded in the mysterious recesses of its mountains, or in the depths of its dark and muddy streams ; its luscious friu'ts ; the gorgeous plumage of its birds ; and the endless variety of animal and insect life, which inhabit its wild jungle tracts ; invest it with an indescribable charm of vague and wondering curiosity.

As the stranger approaches it from the Atlantic, and obtains the first hazy and indistinct view of its distant outline, it appears covered with a misty pall, and presents such a dream-like picture to the imagination, that little effort is required to people its solitudes with beings of his own creation. On a nearer approach, it assumes a sombre monotonous aspect, which leaves upon the mind a disagreeable feeling of gloomy oppressiveness, strengthened by the re flection that we are viewing the haunts of savage life. A dark impenetrable mystery seems to hang beneath the shade of those gloomy forests, fit abode for idolatry and cruel superstition. Where could rapine, and man-stealing, and murder, be more securely pursued ? Where the cries of afflic tion and despair so easily stifled ? Where could the human mind find a scene more calculated to impress it with a superstitious awe, or to prepare it for the bloody rites of pagan worship ?

Ideas such as these cannot but occur to one who views this coast for the first time, and who is ac quainted with the dark page which it fills in history. But as he draws nearer to the shore, and the different features of the scene begin to stand out in distinct and prominent relief, he naturally recals his thoughts from the realms of fancy, to fix his attention upon the novel scene. It may be that the gentle sea breeze, which blows with considerable regularity, has begun to fill the sails of his vessel, and it glides with a gurgling ripple through the tiny wavelets of the sea, glittering in the radiance of a blue and cloudless sky. He is struck with the picturesque appearance of a straggling fleet of fishing canoes steering for the shore, with their ragged sails of matting, and the naked fishermen, lolling listlessly in their frail barks, which appear but ill calculated to brave the perils of the deep.

He hears the distant notes of their rude songs, or, more nearly, the wild jabber of an unintelligible tongue. He watches them as they B approach the beach, upon which the surf is break ing in continual rollers, through which the little skiffs dash fearlessly to land. He observes busy groups meeting them at the landing, and engaged in hauling up their canoes, their naked dingy figures flitting and glancing about, like motes in a sunbeam. He allows his eye to follow the trend of the coast, and to mark its various bays and headlands. He sees the mighty ocean, over which he has sailed many a weary day, hemmed in by a rim of white glittering sand, which gives it the appearance of a stupendous mirror inlaid with silver, the dark foliage of the trees forming an appropriate back ground. More near, he can distinguish, in rapid succession, the mud walls and dingy roofs of straggling native villages, for the most part nestling amid groves of the graceful cocoa-nut tree ; while scattered farther inland he observes an occasional silk-cotton-tree stretching its giant bulk to the sky, like some huge sentinel to guard the land.

As the vessel advances, the panorama is ever changing, but always marked with the same verdant tropical features, which have a wild Robinson Crusoe sort of charm for most Europeans, on their first arrival. Anon he descries a white speck in the distance which, by aid of the telescope, he discovers to be Cape Coast Castle with the British ensign flying over its battlements. His voyage draws to a close, amidst a tumult of mingled feelings not very easy to describe. There is a lightness and elasticity in the clear transparent atmosphere, a laughing joyousness in the gentle ripple of the sea, an idea of wild romance about the untried land lying in beauty before him, and withal, the happy consciousness of having overcome the perils of the deep, which exhilarate the spirits, and excite a variety of agreeable sensations.

But in the midst of this gleam of delight, it is impossible at such a moment to exclude alto gether the thought of the deadly nature of the climate. The bare idea of it presses like a dead weight upon the hearts of loving friends and relations, who mourn him as one gone to the grave. He has been told how treacherous it is ; that it smiles but to deceive, and that there is sickness, and fever, and death, in its balmiest gales. And so these gloomy images cast their dark shadows over the sunny landscape, but only to remind him that he is in the hands of a kind Providence who will do what seemeth Him good ; while hope, kindling at his resignation, soars upon the wings of time, and returns him to his native land after a long career of honour and usefulness. It was with some such feelings, and under such circumstances, that the writer approached and landed at Cape Coast Castle in 1834.

Since then, he has had opportunities of making him self acquainted with the Gold Coast, and its people, which have fallen to the lot of few ; and it is his intention to give some account of them to the public, in the hope of drawing attention to these interesting tribes, and of exciting new and persevering exertions to elevate their moral and social condition. Deeply impressed with the idea of their capability for improvement, from long observation of the gradual development of their powers, and grieved at the state of debasement to which they have been so long consigned, he trusts that this appeal will not be made in vain. And if it shall appear, from the description about to be given, that there is abundant room for the philanthropist to build his hopes of their elevation as a race, he cannot allow himself to believe that Christian England will refrain from the noble attempt to cultivate and improve them.

It is the mission of civilized nations to carry the banner of civilization into barbarous and heathen lands. This boon has hitherto followed in the train of conquest and subjection, and has been forced upon nations, not from any motives of benevolence, but from the natural superiority of civilization over barbarism, which must triumph when they are brought into constant and immediate contact. The climate of Africa precludes the idea of conquest, and continuous possession by Europeans, even were the amalgamation of races possible. We cannot therefore found any hopes of civilizing Africa upon such a distant and doubtful contingency. Neither, if it were desirable, is there any probability of the extinction of the negro race, like other native races, which have disappeared from the face of the earth upon the advent of the European.

The strong physical qualities of the African will, as far as we can judge, always preserve him from this fate. There remains, therefore, only one way of civilizing Africa, and making a conquest of her — a conquest far nobler than the warrior's sword has yet accomplished, a conquest born of love and Christian charity. It is not too much to hope that England will take the lead in this righteous crusade. Notwithstanding the great pecuniary sacrifices, and the devoted exertions which Great Britain and some of her sons have made of late years in behalf of Africa, there has been no permanent beneficial result, at all commensurate with the magnitude of the schemes which have been pursued for her advancement. This failure has operated in a very prejudicial manner for the African, and has been attributed to his innate depravity, upon which it has appeared almost an impossibility to graft a single good and enduring principle.

Does not the very mention ofthe Niger Expedition sound on the ears of many benevolent Christians as an alarm against any farther attempt to civi lize these people ? Do not the lives and money expended on that most disastrous and fruitless enterprise serve as finger-posts to warn the nations of Europe from the impracticable task ? Could it be that a project, based upon the purest and most benevolent motives, committed to the charge of able, gallant, and zealous officers, assisted by all appliances of art and science, and sanctified by a nation's prayers, should fail of success, were it not that the native character of the African presented obstacles which it were in vain to seek to overcome ? The prevalence of ideas such as these, and a consequent growing indifference about Africa, appear to be the only results of that famous expedition.

But, with all becoming deference be it said, we must look for the cause of its failure, not in the absence of any improveable quality in the negro race, but in the inadequate nature of its schooling. It was the offspring of fanaticism, which ever over looks or miscalculates the means to an end, and sees the accomplishment of its dreams through the exaggerated medium of an over-heated imagin ation, which reposes its trust upon miraculous in terpositions and special providences. The corrupt tendencies of human nature, and the effect of ages of degradation and debasement upon a race, would appear to have had little weight in the calculations of the projectors of the scheme. Precept and example were considered sufficient to eradicate evil and substitute good among whole tribes of people, without the help of correction and restraint, and this, too, before the lessons of experience could show the effect of such teaching upon their self interest.

It is scarcely doubtful whether posterity will not class this enterprize with that of Peter the Hermit, as equally the result of a noble but mistaken zeal. But peace to the ashes of the gallant hearts who died in such a cause ! They have not perished in vain ! Actuated by the most gener ous motives which could influence human con duct, and utterly regardless of self-sacrifice, they have left in their enterprize and in their fate a B lasting memorial of disinterested philanthropy and Christian benevolence. Nor is this all. The world has become wiser by this new experience, and recognises the necessity of acting upon human probabilities. But let not our errors and miscalculations operate prejudicially to the African, and prevent us from pursuing the same noble object by other and more feasible means.

The strongholds of barbarism are not to be carried by any sudden and violent coup de main. The outposts must be approached with caution, and a secure intrench ment obtained within the enemy's lines before any attempt is made at subjection. Allies must be purchased over to our side, bound to us by ties of self-interest. Our attacks must, even then, be insidiously made, and our ultimate object carefully concealed. Every advantage gained in this man ner will render the next step more easy, until one by one prejudices have been removed, customs and practices discouraged or abolished, and a friendly spirit favourable to our purposes fully awakened. Upon the Gold Coast these important and preliminary objects have been secured, and little is now required for the more perfect development of an incipient civilization.

With a strong govern ment, possessed of moral and physical power, capable of repressing any sudden outbreak, an efficient judicial system suited to the state of social progress, the establishment of schools, and the employment of a moderate amount of capital in the country, the work of improvement may be safely left to time. Let England but confer these blessings, and nothing more is wanted for a steady and progressive advancement. A protectorate guaranteeing these essential elements of civil and social prosperity would have the rare merit of raising this long degraded race into the ranks/ of civilization.

Chapter II

Meagreness of our accounts respecting the Gold Coast — Early Portuguese discoveries — The Pope's grant — Trade of the Coast farmed by Fernando Gomez — Establishment of the settlement of Elmina — Importance given to African settlements by the discovery of America — Encroachment of the Dutch — Expulsion of the Portuguese from Elmina in 1637 — African trade carried on by English merchants in the reign of Edward VI. — The Company of Royal Adventurers of England trading to Africa formed in 1662 — Capture of Cape Coast Castle from the Dutch — Description of Cape Coast Castle — The town and environs — English, Dutch, and Danish settlements — Eager pursuit of the Slave Trade — Nature of European tenure on the Gold Coast — Demoralizing effects of the Slave Trade — Low state of morality among the Europeans No advantages conferred by us during the whole course of the Slave Trade.

We have very little authentic information on the subject of the inhabitants of the Gold Coast of a very ancient date. The discoveries of the early Portuguese navigators did not enrich history with many facts respecting the people of these countries, beyond the mere knowledge of their existence in a state of rude and savage nature, and, notwithstanding the number of years which have elapsed since that time, we are still but meagrely supplied with descriptions of the state of society in these regions. Africa may not inaptly be compared to an extensive deer-forest, where the lordly proprietor betakes himself at times in quest of game and recreation. He has certain beats, which he frequents, where the deer have their tracks, and to which his beaters drive them. Here he takes his stand, and watches for his prey, while the deep recesses of the forest remain to him a perfect terra incognita.

In the same way the nations of Europe have planted their establishments upon this coast, upon those lines which communicate most freely with the interior, and have waited the approach of their prey with as feverish an excitement, while little thought has been given to the country beyond. In the early part of the fifteenth century, the Portuguese, guided by the enlightened curiosity and zeal for discovery of Prince Henry, the son of John I., entered upon a career of maritime ad venture which has rendered the name of their nation famous in history. The exploration of the African coast was the object of his grand ambition. As early as 1412 he sent out a vessel for this purpose ; and though this first expedition was not attended with any distinguished success, it in creased the Prince's ardour for discovery.

Before 1418 they had traced the line of the African coast beyond Cape Non, until within sight of Cape Bojador, which at first appeared an insurmountable barrier. In that year two gentlemen of Prince Henry's household, John Gonzales Zarco and Tristram vaz Texeria, set out with the intention of rounding this cape, but being driven to sea in a gale, they reached an island which they named Porto Santo, and soon afterwards discovered Madeira, upon which there is reason to believe that an Englishman of the name of Macham had been accidentally cast in 1334. The Canary Islands had previously been dis covered by some Spaniards of Seville during the reign of Henry III. of Castile, at the close of the fourteenth century. The King conferred the sovereignty of the island upon a Norman baron, John de Bretancourt, whose successors afterwards sold it to Prince Henry.

In 1433 Gilianez rounded Cape Bojador, which had been previously doubled by some Norman adventurers, who are said to have traced the African coast as far south as Sierra Leone. Prince Henry, anxious to secure to the crown of Portugal the advantages which he fore saw must arise from these new discoveries, obtained from Pope Martin V. a grant assigning to Portugal all lands or islands which had been or might be discovered between Bojador and the East Indies. The spirit of the age led the sovereigns of Europe to respect this grant for a time, and secured to Portugal the exclusive right of trading to this coast. Some Englishmen in the reign of Edward IV. were stopped in their preparations for an African voyage by the King, upon a representation being made to him of the Pope's grant in favour of the crown of Portugal.

In 1441 Antonio Gonzales and Nuno Tristan examined the coast as far as Sierra Leone, beyond which it does not appear that the Portuguese had penetrated at the death of the Prince in 1463. During the reign of Alphonzo in 1469, Fernando Gomez farmed the trade of the coast of Guinea for a rent of five hundred ducats, obliging himself to extend the discovery of the coast five hundred leagues during the period of his exclusive privilege. It is probably owing to this monopoly that we have no detailed accounts of progressive discovery from the time of Prince Henry's death until the accession of John II. to the throne in 1481, during which period the whole coast of Guinea, with the Bights of Benin and Biafra, had been visited. King John, alive to the advantages of the African trade, determined still further to secure and protect it, by forming establishments on the coast ; and with this view he sent out an expedition under the command of Don Diego d'Azambuja, at the com mencement of his reign.

It consisted of a squadron of ten caravels and two transports, with five hun dred soldiers and two hundred labourers. They landed at Elmina upon the Gold Coast, which had been selected for this purpose, and they were pre pared to carry out their intentions of building a forti fication by force, if the native King should seek to oppose them. The debarkation was effected with a great deal of ceremonious pomp. The Portu guese marched to the native village, unfurled the royal banner of Portugal upon a high tree, placed an altar under its shade, celebrated mass and offered up prayers for the speedy conversion of the natives and the prosperity of the church about to be erected. The natives, accustomed to see the Portuguese arrive upon their coast in the simple guise of traders, were not prepared for this display of power, which they perceived with great distrust.

The King, Camaianca, objected to the establish ment of a permanent settlement, and does not seem to have yielded anything like a cordial assent when they commenced building their fortification. Overawed, however, by the superiority of the Europeans, he did not resort to any forcible op position, until the Portuguese labourers began to quarry a rock, which the natives held sacred. Then they had recourse to arms. Several of the workmen were wounded, and Azambuja, who appears to have acted with great discretion, had much difficulty in appeasing them, which he preferred to do by means of presents and excuses rather than resort to force, rightly judging that their future intercourse would be rendered more agreeable by such forbearance. It is very evident, however, that this, the first European settlement on the Coast of Guinea, was established in opposition to the wishes of the natives.

The fort, which was built with great expedition, received the name of St. George ; and Azambuja, after a government of two years and a half, returned to Portugal. Other settlements were formed at different points of the coast and forts built. But it was not until Columbus had given a new world to Spain that the great im portance of these African settlements was fully acknowledged. While the native American race was fast disappearing under the cruel yoke of their Spanish taskmasters, the superior physical qualities of the African race marked them out as admirably suited to replace the extraordinary depopulation which was going on. Under these circumstances Portugal was not allowed to enjoy her African possessions unmolested. The Pope's grant was no safeguard against cupidity. The Dutch, at that time famous for their maritime power, were tempted to make encroachments upon the Portuguese rights, and commenced that career of hostility against them, which ended in driving them out successively from most of their colonial settlements.

They established themselves at Mouree, only twelve miles from the chief settlement of the Portuguese at Elmina, from which they succeeded in expelling them in 1637, and with the fall of Elmina the power of the Portuguese on the Gold Coast became extinct, the minor forts yielding, as a matter of course. Nor did the English remain idle spectators of these events. Impelled by a similar spirit of adventure, and as eagerly alive to motives of self interest as their Dutch contemporaries, they early turned their attention to the advantage of a trade with Africa. In the latter part of the reign of Edward VI. our merchants commenced a trade with the coast of Guinea, but without any support from government. They were therefore ill able to contend against the Portuguese, who endeavoured to maintain their exclusive right to the trade, upon the strength of the Pope's grant.