American and the Americans. A narrtive of a tour in the United States and Canada. With chapters on American home life

Preface

. The Author has been recommended by his Publisher to write, in a few words, a brief preface; and no doubt with the desirable object of conforming to public opinion and to the usual custom in the world of literature. But if the writer may be understood, and pardoned for saying so, he humbly thinks it impossible for any author, in a few words — it certainly is so for him — to formulate such a preface as would give any fair, just, and ade quate conception of what this narrative of travel contains. Since, however, a brief preface is recommended, the writer avails himself of the opportunity to explain, in a word or two, how this volume came to be published. Some time ago the author was led to contribute to the Press a series of articles on America ; also, certain papers in separate form to several magazines and periodicals ; and the favour which these contri butions obtained, on both sides of the Atlantic, first suggested the idea of this publication.

But as in the matter of publishing and of what is likely to be of any value, an author is not always, perhaps not often, the safest guide, the writer therefore submitted his manuscript to a literary gentleman of the highest reputation, who on returning it very kindly assured the author that he had read it carefully and with very much interest, and conceived — in terms only too ap preciative — that, as the narrative embraces a large proportion of

PREFACE.

. 4 the most interesting cities, localities, and institutions of Canada and the United States — that, as it introduces much new and fresh matter on questions of national importance, especially on topics relating to American home-life, it would supply to a con siderable extent a felt want in books of travel, and would, in his opinion, meet with a wide measure of success. On receiving this, far too high, estimate of the narrative, the author placed it with the main portion of the matter in the hands of the publisher, who on reading the manuscript was also good enough to speak of the general tone and tenor of the work very approvingly ; and with his cordial consent and guid ance, with certain suggestions and alterations, the author has prepared this volume, which, he ventures to hope, presents a fair and accurate picture of what came within his observation, of America and the Americans, when travelling in the United States.

The author has only to convey an expression of warmest thanks to his friend, the Rev. J. B. Davidson, M.A., of Peter head, who so efficiently assisted in reading the proofs as the work was passing through the press. January, 1892. CHAPTER CONTENTS.

PAGE I. — The Voyage Out, 9 II. — The Gibraltar of America ; On the St. Lawrence to Montreal, - - - 19 III. — Montreal and Ottawa, the Seat of the Canadian Government. 27 IV. — The Thousand Isles ; Toronto ; Niagara Falls, ------- 3"] V — Detroit to Chicago ; Impressions of the American Board of Missions, 49 VI. — Chicago, Material Aspects, Moral Tonf, Miscellaneous Recollections, 60 VII. — Chicago, its Streets, the Press, Schools, various Institutions, - - - 69 VIII. — Mr. Moody, the American Evangelist ; His Church and Labours in Chicago, - CON TENTS. 6 CHAl'TER PAGE IX. — The Prairies; Springfield; Abraham Lincoln ; The Mississippi, - - - - 85 X. — St. Louis, its various Sights and Incidents; The Journey to Cincinnati. - 95 XI. — Cincinnati, Characteristics, Scenes, and Social Life, 103 XII. — From Cincinnati to Pittsburg, across the Alleghanies, - - - - 115 XIIT. — Washington City, its various Institutions and Places of Interest, - - 125 XIV. — Philadelphia, the Quaker City; Bethany Sunday School, - . - - - 137 XV — From Philadelphia to Newark, - - 151 XVI. — New York, the Metropolis of America, - 158 XVII. — New York, its Programme, Government, and Institutions, - - - - 169 XVIII. — Brooklyn, "The City of Churches," - 180 XIX. — The late Rev. W. H. Beecher, the King of American Preachers, - - - 188 •j CONTENTS. 7 CHAPTER PAGE XX. — Dr. John Hall, New York; Dr. Talmage, Brooklyn Tabernacle, - - - 197 XXI. — American Competition and our Agriculturists, 207 XXII. — From New York to Worcester, Mass., - 216 XXIII. — Boston, the City of the Pilgrim Fathers, 230 XXIV. — The Vicinity of Boston, - 244 XXV. — New England and Religious Liberty, - 257 XXVI. — New England, its Rural Life; Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stowe; Emerson, the Poet-Philosopher ; Manufacturing Interests, 266 XXVII. — American Hotels and Hotel Life, - 281 XXVIII. — The Churches of America, - - - 290 XXIX. — Home Life in America, - - - 304 XXX. — America a vast Country ; Republicanism v. Monarchy; Wit and Humour; International Relations, - - - .

Chapter I. The Voyage Out

T T was a bright, lovely morning in the early autumn, a morning of great beauty, like a morning in June, when I embarked on a vessel of the Allan Line at Glasgow, to sail by Liverpool, for a tour through Canada and the United States of America. In attempting here a narrative of my travels, I do not forget the fact that a vast amount has been said and written on America, embracing every State, leaving nothing of a general interest in any part untouched. But while bearing that in mind, and not assuming anything beyond the range of my personal observations travelling the country, I yet venture to put my impressions in a more extended and permanent form than I was able to do in a series of articles in some of our newspapers and periodicals on my return from the New World. America is a great country ; no country is greater ; and no country in the nineteenth century rises more impressively before the mind, in the development and progress of affairs.

So, from its greatness and position among other countries, as well as from its close relation to our own, we can hardly hear and read too much regarding it. " One of the strangest things," remarked a friend, conversing with me one evening on America, " is the different opinions and impressions that strangers travelling in America give on the same things." But aster all, this is not so strange, even when the opinions and impressions are not only different, but really contradictory ; for be it remembered, as we have said, America is a great and boundless country. Every writer has his own experience to narrate, but it is impossible for a writer, or for a thousand writers, adequately to represent every thing. Then again, life in America is so full of progress, energy, and moving power ; business in all branches is so varied and so multiplied, and changes take place so rapidly that minds receive very different impressions in the shortest space of time.

In my travels through America, I endeavoured to study facts, and all I attempt or wish to do is to record my observations, and to record them faithfully, frankly, and, I trust, without feeling, prejudice, or exaggeration, hoping that the record may prove of interest, and convey some useful information to those who have not visited the country themselves. But enough of preliminary remarks. On leaving Glasgow there were but few cabin passengers on board ; at Liverpool our vessel received her " cargo and complement." When we were but leaving Glasgow, a fellow-passenger, of the true Yankee type, " made up " to me, and addressed me thus : " I guess you're for America." How he knew puzzled me, but in some way he " guessed " it, and though thus early in the voyage, he very frankly bade me "welcome" to his great country.

He had been to the Continent, and having " done Europe," as he put it, was returning to the States, and had much to say on the superiority of America " to all the nations of the world." He was, as I have said, of the true Yankee type, — a frank, intelligent, well-informed, well-read traveller ; and he had all the more to say to me as the cabin passengers were but few, and as he found I playfully bantered with him on the faults and failings ascribed by us in the Old Country to our American cousins. It may be here stated that as a nation our friendship with America is of the closest kind. We now know each other well ; we manifest a warm interest in each other's welfare ; we rejoice in each other's success. To say that the Old Country is apt to look down upon the New, and adversely to criticise her move ments is simply not true.

The fact is we love each other as mother and daughter. The Americans have a warm regard, a strong feeling of affection for the Old World ; and we have a high and sincere appreciation of all the splendid qualities and successes of the New World. This is as it should be ; on many grounds much might be advanced in favour of friendly inter course and kindly feeling between America and ourselves. An eminent politician has said " The coming and going between the two countries has done untold good, in uniting Great Britain and America." And no doubt but it has ; this " coming and going " extends our knowledge of each other's affairs and gives insight into character, and otherwise shows the growth, the life and the controlling forces of the two nations. Travelling in America I everywhere received a kind welcome and much hospitality and attention.

The Americans are a warm-hearted friendly people. They are of a kindly disposition and "given to entertain strangers." I have much to say in their praise, and not one word to record that would in the least degree detract from the high esteem in which they are deservedly held where they are known. The Alabama question which so grieved many of them was happily settled long ago ; and we hope that the two nations so closely linked together in warm friendship and interests of the greatest value, both material and moral, may long recognise their affinity, and continue in harmony, peace, and good-will, their " only rivalry, the rivalry of love." When but a mere lad I was greatly drawn to books of bio graphy, narrative, and travel. Among places which attracted me not a little interest was attached to America, but however much we may know a country's affairs from books, on visiting it we find, if I may so speak, that we know next to nothing.

" America is without question beyond any conception from books." California itself is big enough to hold not only the population of Great Britain and Ireland, but half as many more. The one state of Texas is larger than twice the size of our United Kingdom. No wonder that the Americans boast of their country as superior to all other countries of the world. Surely, taking the above facts into consideration, their boast is not a vain one. In this great country, then, I was deeply interested when a boy, and of this great country I read much; but a visit to America was at the time regarded by me as too adventurous to be entertained even for a moment. The spirit of prophecy was not with me, nor could I believe that the sun would ever rise on the day when I should attempt the heroic journey across.

But in this world of ours wonderful things occur, and one day I found myself on board a noble vessel of the " Allan Line," whose colours gave signal that we were soon to sail for that great and wonderful country I had so longed to see. I must confess that on board the vessel, even before she sailed, many "shifting lights and shadows" crossed my thoughts. In books of imaginative writers I had read of dangerous voyages, of vessels in storm, burned, wrecked, ice-enclosed, and otherwise imperilled, so that the reader may guess how the pictorial was forced on one's feelings, particularly when the engine set itself to its task, and the noble vessel left the Mersey bound for the great Atlantic. But travellers are not influenced by the "shifting lights and shadows" of time; nor do they count on risk and danger either by land or sea.

On leaving Liverpool we were all in excellent spirits. Friends who had come to see us off waved their handkerchiefs, as if to say "God speed the ship, all safety and happiness attend your passage." I recollect well that the uppermost thought in my mind was, " I am now on my way to the New World." Moving about on the deck of the ship, we soon became acquainted with our fellow passengers. "What a mighty voyage is before us!" said some of the more timorous ones — others spoke but lightly of the voyage and talked as if going for a day's sailing, or for a short trip to one of our summer islands. One old gentleman was a rare sailor ; he had crossed the Atlantic Ocean nineteen times. To this old gentleman nothing was more enjoyable than " Life on the ocean wave." But to those of us who had never crossed the Atlantic, and who had never any great liking for the sea, this journey was felt to be rather a serious undertaking.

We sailed by way of Canada ; the vessel carried a good library ; we had books of interest in abundance, of all sorts and kinds ; and we had no need to be weary. Then the captain was a host in himself, well-bred, most intelligent, entertaining, and full of stories and adventures. He carried a happy heart, and had a happy way of keeping all on board in good cheer. His bearing often reminded me of the verse — ' 'Tis well to walk with a cheerful heart Where'er life's fortunes call ; With a friendly glance, and an open hand. And a kindly word to all." The " costume " of one or two of the gentlemen passengers was novel and ingenious; it was altogether out of the ordinary style. Their hats were of light colour, almost as high again as an ordinary silk hat ; their coats were blue, swallow-tailed to the extreme ; their trousers were of a gaudy striped colour, which made their appearance still more amusing.

But " costume," forsooth! Ours is a free country; the man of inventive imagination may dress himself according to his own tastes; and whether he be laughed at, or spoken of as a curiosity, he may follow his own likings or carry out his own theories of " attire " even on board a vessel on the Atlantic. The first day leaving Liverpool, being in good spirits, we all dined together. The sea was calm and quiet ; there was little motion. Everybody was well, and, judging from appear ances, nobody was to be ill. The day was bright and clear ; and we noticed how wonderfully even the most timid plucked up courage and expressed themselves as to the voyage con fidently. There was a brother minister on board. He had been for some years missionary in the "foreign field," but thinking that he would be more successful in his work and better of a " helpmeet," he took shipping, and one fine day came home for one who had reserved herself for him, glad to be his companion in labour in the far-off land.

To this couple I was introduced. Towards evening, being Saturday night, the missionary asked me to go with him to the captain that we might arrange for the services on Sunday. The good captain had no objection to services, but looking up into the sky he said with a significant smile : " I daresay one service may be all that you will get com fortably through." What did he mean? The reader will under stand our intentions were good, but it turned out as the captain predicted, and both ministers were baffled to conduct even one service. The weather changed, towards night it became gloomy, the wind rose, and there were signs of a formidable sea. Before retiring for the night and getting into our berths, or shelf-beds, some of us went on deck and were interested in the sights and coloured signal-lights seen on the waters.

But after the first night those signal-lights were all left behind, and I do not know that we passed more than one or two ships all the voyage from Liverpool to Canada. This is a striking fact. I mention it here as showing the vastness of the mighty waters. Throughout the night I was a good deal tempted to wakefulness by the movements of the ship, rising, falling, rocking, reeling, and performing antics, not of the most enjoyable kind. On a fine night at sea, it is pleasant to slumber and sleep to the swing of the ship and the music of the ocean. But at six o'clock on Sunday morning I was wakened by the bell, and at once sprang from my berth and began dressing, when the ship gave a plunge, and it was with difficulty that I could keep my feet at all. The wind was blowing hard, there was a strong chopping sea, the waves were rising high in thick spray, dashing and beating against the ship.

All at once she became too perpendicular for my head. I had not yet got my " sea-legs," and before I was half ready for breakfast at half-past eight, I felt quite uncomfortable, and to my regret was unpresentable all day. " This is an unhappy start," I remember saying to myself. ■5 As I write I have still a vivid recollection of my first experi ence at sea. Trips to Paris, Vienna, and other parts of the Continent have wrought refreshment in me, renewal of body and mind, "but these feelings," thought I, "are peculiar, and not to my taste." My fears were in case I should be the only one absent from breakfast ; but when I learned that the seats were empty, that only the captain and four passengers were able to appear, I was thankful, and indeed gratified ; and my friends here will do me the justice to say that in this at least I was wonderfully unselfish.

The day wore on, nearly everybody was ill, and of course the Sunday service as arranged was not held. All day I kept my berth, as I could not very easily keep my feet. Nor did I care to be vis;ble on the morning of the following day, as the ship kept up her pranks, rocking, bumping, rattling about. The stewards were most kind and attentive. In the afternoon a gentleman nautically clad in blue came to see me, and asked with a laugh, "What about the preaching yesterday?" It was good Captain Scott. After several inquiries, he said, " You must get up and come on deck as soon as you can, otherwise you may lie here all the voyage." Somewhat afraid, but following his advice, I made the attempt. In less than half-an-hour I was upstairs, and soon better ; after this I enjoyed the voyage amazingly, though it was rougher and longer than usual, owing to the dreary, miserable foggy weather, which we encountered as we neared the other side.

Among the " sea-sick," were the missionary and his young wife, who were excessively ill, almost unable to speak the one to the other. For eight days they did not appear. " Poor creature ! " said the captain, speaking of the young wife, " she is very bad, and she says," he added with a hearty laugh, " ' If I had known this I wouldn't have come.' " But all recovered, and as these voyage experiences are not of the most pleasant kind, we shall not detain the reader further in relating them. The weather continued through the voyage somewhat broken and the sea rough. In fact, if the passengers had been asked their opinion, they would have voted this " a stormy passage." The second Sunday we had two services, both well attended, reverently conducted, and delightfully enjoyable. Each service lasted an hour, and the whole of the exercises had a subduing and solemnising influence.

The sermons lasted twenty minutes, the morning sermon was on the love of God in Christ, the afternoon or evening sermon dealt with the grounds of our Christian hope. It was pleasant to see the interest of the pas sengers in the services — pleasant to hear the bell ringing as on land, assembling brethren together to join in prayer and praise. Before reaching the Gulf of St. Lawrence the ship lay three days in a dense fog. We were in the regions of ice ; it was dreadfully and piercingly cold. There was danger of moving for fear that we might come into collision with some other vessel, or encounter some large ice-berg, twenty-four of which were counted within sight of the naked eye as the fog cleared away. Some of us tried to sketch the great ice-mountains, but the out lines changed so much, and the cold was so intense, that we could produce no satisfactory result.

One of the most remarkable things on board these large steamers is the freshness of " table supply," and other necessaries for a long voyage. Our passage was rather a long one, owing to a heavy sea, head winds, and the dense fog that we met with before we entered the St. Lawrence ; yet everything on table was as fresh and as good when we landed in Canada as when we left Liverpool. It may be asked " How do the passengers amuse themselves on a long voyage ? " In various ways. When the sky is clear and the sea fairly calm, the deck of the ship is a scene of life and stir all day long. Games, conversations, debates, socialities and amusements are engaged in ; songs, music, and concerts are arranged for to be given in the evenings. Some read books, others write letters, some again play cards and otherwise enjoy themselves as at home, when friends are together on a social evening.

So that unless a passenger be in himself dull and uninteresting, or unwell, he will not weary, nor will time hang on his hands. It is wonderful how quickly the time passes on a voyage at sea. One never-failing source of amusement, weather permitting, is watch ing the course of the ship and looking on the whales and porpoises playing near ; and the hour-bell telling the passing time, the songs and movements of the sailors, the whistle calling them to duty — these things break the monotony of the voyage and have all an interest at sea. The night we reached the Gulf of_St. Lawrence was beauti fully clear and brilliant, the stars were lustrous, we were going at full speed. It was pleasant to see the gallant ship, how proudly she ploughed through the Straits of Belle Isle, the water flashing behind with phosphorescent light.

We retired for the night ; early next morning we were told we were in America. This message made some of us jump, dress, and hurry on deck; but as yet no land could be seen. We saw, however, a glorious sunrise, and were thus amply rewarded for appearing so early. It was next day ere we sighted land. The reader may imagine our feelings when we first saw it in the distance. Sailing up the River St. Lawrence, we noticed, thus early in autumn, several inches of snow on the tops of the lower Canadian hills, but the air was balmy and delicious. We passed several sea-going steamers, and on the coast, here and there, were small villages with straggling white wooden houses, and forests beyond. It was at five o'clock in the morning when we arrived at the old but interesting city of Quebec; two guns were fired, the ship was landed, and thus ended our somewhat tedious, though enjoy able voyage.

The great Atlantic had been safely crossed. There had been no quarrelling among either passengers or sailors ; all were happy as one family ; everything tended to promote friendship and peace. Standing on the shore at Point Levi, after " attending to the receipt of custom," we shook hands, took leave of one another, sorry to break up the happy associations that had been formed. " We part," said one, " never all to meet again, till the great voyage of life be over." True ; but, i) under the guidance of the Great Captain, we hope to meet then, on that shore, as it is said, "where the sun never goes down, and where the crossing of life's waters is left behind and remem bered no more for ever."

Chapter II. The Gibraltar Of America

; ON THE ST. LAWRENCE TO MONTREAL. HPHE morning of our arrival in Quebec was bright and airy, but for September, rather cold. My first impressions of the old city from Point Levi were unfavourable. It was observed by a passenger that the town was "not very lively"; by another, "as dull as you can desire to see." But these observations were made by travellers who had not yet honoured Quebec by paying it a visit, and at an hour in the early morning when the busiest city looks as if the entire population were imprisoned, or had gone on a holiday trip. We must remain for a time in Quebec and see it during the day to receive correct impressions. To European travellers Quebec is a city of great interest. Until recently it was the capital of united Canada. It is an old fortified town, with a grandeur all its own, and is rightly called the Gibraltar of America.

It is situated on a steep promontory on the north side of the St. Lawrence, and is divided into two parts, the Upper Town and the Lower. It was founded by Champlain in 1608 on the site of an Indian village called Stadacona. It continued to be the centre of French trade and commerce till it fell into the hands of Britain by the memorable victory of Wolfe in 1759. Well informed readers will recall the gallant incidents of its history, and especially its brave struggles in connection with the name of Wolfe. We were taken to the spot where the noble hero bled and died just when he had gained the victory. His last words were these, " God be praised, I die in peace." And it may be worth noting that before he engaged in his last battle he was heard to repeat Gray's " Elegy," and to murmur the appropriate saying, "The path of glory leads but to the grave."

A suitable pillar marks the spot where the hero fell. I was told when in Quebec that "the General who led the French against Wolfe, fell in the last battle and died before the light of the following day." The people of Quebec are proud of their old city, and proud to re late the incidents of its history. The Upper Town claims to have some buildings of architectural beauty ; but the Lower Town, which lies on a long, narrow strip of land, has neither beauty, plan, nor arrangement of any kind. Its streets are irregular, narrow, and ill-paved; and the idea of walking in some of them in wet weather is not to us attractive. Quebec has a population of over 77,000, and is a city of docks, wharves, and extensive shipping. In its religious faith it is intensely Roman Catholic. The cathedral is by far the most conspicuous building in the Upper town.

It is handsomely fitted' up, and seats over 4,000 people. The walls are hung with fine paintings of saints, martyrs, priests, and beautiful drawings of apocalyptic vision. But although Quebec be intensely Roman Catholic, other denominations are fairly represented in it. There are Presbyterians, Independents, Baptists, and Methodists. At the time of my visit there were manifest signs in the old city of a quickened religious life. Hundreds and hundreds were night after night having the Gospel preached to them by ministers and evangelists in the different Protestant churches ; and notwithstanding the great power of the priests over the Catholics, some of them were attending the meetings, and several cases of " new converts " to the " true faith " were recorded. I took part in some of these religious services.

At a large "Open Testimony Meeting" one night, I heard one or two who had been Roman Catholics say that they had come under the power of Divine truth, and were now free men in Christ Jesus. It does not, however, befit my plan here to discuss Roman Catholicism, nor is it in my mind to detain the reader with THE GIBRALTAR OF AMERLCA. 21 remarks on the subject. But this we may state, that of late the Romish Church in Canada has been putting forth renewed energy, and Roman Catholicism, in certain districts, is growing with such rapidity that it seems almost to take the breath from some of the foremost American Protestant leaders. Yet in Canada the Gospel is making progress ; and that a mani festation of the power of the Spirit should appear in Quebec, and such a manifestation too as old men testify they have never before witnessed, is significant, hopeful, and encouraging.

We are not of those who believe in "hasty verdicts," or who claim to have the gift of prophecy, yet we have no hesitation in saying that these religious movements point in the right direc tion. But, as an able and somewhat famous guardian of the truth predicts, " a mighty conflict yet remains to be fought in Canada." Be it so. Darkness ere long must yield to light. Magna est veritas et prevalebit. But returning from this momentary transgression of our plan, the great object of attraction, and of ever memorable interest in Quebec is the Citadel, the most formidable fortress in America. Standing on the " Heights " the view is magnificently grand. The area embraced is more than forty acres, and the line of fortifications nearly three miles in length. We had the good fortune to meet a friend in the city, and to be accompanied by him to the summit.