Search for Winter Sunbeams in the Riviera, Corsica, Algiers, and Spain ... With numerous illustrations

Front matter

SEARCH FOR WINTER SUNBEAMS. ] Picken del Le^hfcm Bro" lith M 0 N A C SEARCH FOR WINTER SUNBEAMS IN* THE RIVIERA, CORSICA, ALGIERS, AND SPAIN. BY SAMUEL S. COX, AUTHOR OF "THE BUCKEYE ABROAD. " "EIGHT YEARS IN CONGRESS," ETC. WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS. " By what means to shun The inclement seasons, rain, ice, hail, and snow, Which now the sky, with various face, begins To show us * * * while the winds Blow moist and keen, shattering the graceful locks Of these fair spreading trees; which bid us seek Some better shroud, some better warmth." Paradise Regained. NEW YORK: D. APPLETON & COMPANY, 90, 92 & 94 GRAND STREET. 1870. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1870, by S. S. COX, in the Clerk's Office ofthe District Court ofthe United States for the Southern District of New York.

TO MY CONSTITUENTS OF THE SIXTH CONGRESSIONAL DISTRICT OF THE CITY OF NEW YORK. To you, I have the honour and pleasure of dedicating these " Sunbeams " of travel. They were made bright by your confidence, and cheerful by your indulgence ; without which I could not have pursued them, into far and almost untrodden paths— in " search" of the health so needed, and I trust, secured— for the duty which you haVe devolved Upon me. Westminster 1'ai.ace Hutfl* London, Sept. i, 1869; CONTENTS. PRELIMINARY CHAPTER. EXPLANATION OF THE TITLE — SUNBEAMS. Functions of Light — Effects of Light on Mind and Body — Its sanitary influences — -Music of Light — Analogy between Light and Sound — The sunlit shores of the Mediterranean — Historical associations of that sea — Corsica an Epitome of Europe and Africa Page I

Chapter I. Attractions Of The Riviera, Nice, Cannes, And Hykres

Chapter II. The Riviera

— MENTONE. Site and Climate of Mentone — Incidents of days of Convalescence — Influence of solar heat in prolonging life — Dr. Henry Bennet's garden — Transparency of the sea — Varied colours of the Ocean — A drop into the sea — The climax of Mentone diversion — The donkey an archæologist — Roccobruna — The skeleton in the house — The Ceimetery — Garden amidst the rocks of Grimaldi 24

Chapter III. Monaco

2 ITS SCENERY, HISTORY, POLITY, PRINCE, MYTHS AND HELLS. Sea view from the Casino — The local Laureate — Tt-te du Chicii — The Prince de In Roulette — Origin of the famous Corniche road — Explosion of rocks — Little Africa — M. Blanc and l\ou^c-c-t-Aroi} The Prince the heir of the Grimaldis — Their degeneracy — Gigantic mailed effigy of a Grimaldi — » Great antiquity ofthe dynasty — A Russian Princess at the Roulette-table — Operations of the game — Addison's visit to Monaco — The martyred Christian virgin Devote Contents. VIII

Chapter IV. Corsica Afar And Near

The mountains visible from Monaco — Embarkation for Corsica — The Corse tongue mi.xed Arabic and Italian — Near view of Corsica from the sea — The Sanguinaires — Saying of Xapoleon on the perfume of Corsica — Repulsive funeral custom — Bonapartism the Genius of Ajaccio — Napoleon's birthplace and birthday — Madame Letitia surprise a leglise — Napoleon's last thoughts about Corsica — Carlo Bonaparte and Letitia Ramolino — Fierce democratic speech of Prince Napoleon Page 60

Chapter V. Amid The Mountains Of Corsica

— A STRANGE, WONDERFUL LAND. Perfect French Engineering in Corsica — Manger le cocher — The Sheep easily separated from the Goats — Women A califourchou — Labouring gangs of Lucchesi — View from the heights of St. Sebastian — A grand granite congress — Priestly hospitality — Chestnut diet and its results — Olives and wild olives — Little work in the Corsican — Heroes of Corsica — The range of Monte Rotondo — The family of Pozzo di Borgo — Wild boars and bandits in the Black Forest — Dr. Multido — Ascent to Evisa — M. Carrara's modest Bill of Fare — Its appetising realisation — Extensive Coup d'ail from Monte Rotondo — ' The caprice of the Eternal Father ' — Ascent of Monte Rotondo 74

CHAPTER VL CORSICAN

HISTORY— MOUNTAINS AMI COAST- Classical associations of the Island — Modern History — Seneca's aspersion al Corsica — Seneca without Apostolic or Waltonian predilections — The I 'evil exorcised by St. Martin — The Cure's house at La Piana — Plaintive intonation ofthe 1W,ro — Anecdotes ofthe brigand Serafino — Li Vendetta — Polyglot imprecations against fleas — The Greek Colony of Carghese- - Greek features of the population — Sapient descendants of Socrates and Plato — One-eyed population of Sagone ;. .. 97 CHA I'TKR VII. THE CLAIMS OF CORSI' i AS A HIM ill RESORT, ETC. Angela, aged no, the lervanl of Madame Letitia — Dr. Ribton of Vjaci The Riviera and Ajaccio in phthisis compared — Coup n'oil of mountain lewtery Jl3 Contents. IX

CHAPTER VIII. ADVENT INTO AFRICA.

Landing at Algiers — Its Orientalism unchanged — The Hebrew population — Beauty of the Arab and Moorish children — Moorish embroidery — Sisters of Charity — Eufauls trouvis — The last Dey's Seraglio — His Audienceroom — The Dey slaps the French Consul in the face — The French conquest — Visit to a Mosque — Sleeping in Mosques, and Churches — Exhaustless variety of raggedness — The Snake-charmer — Negroes from Soudan and Abyssinia — Difficulty of permanent African conquest — Enumeration of African populations — History of conquests in Africa .. .. Page 118

CHAPTER IX. ALGIERS.

Algerian omnibuses on the Mahomedan Sabbath — The gratte dos of the Kabyle, — and of Argyll — Dr. Bennet's botanical Eureka — Enormous ostriches and their prices — Male and female incubation — The snows of Africa — The Valley of the Feiiuue sauvage — Rock -cut tomb in form of a temple — The Cafe chantant of the French Quarter — The Devil an Algerine Dervish — Horrible performance of Dervishes — Fanatic Diabolism — A Christian Martyr immured alive — The Community of La Trappe near Algiers — Forts of the Moorish Corsairs — Reception by the Trappists — Their industry and hospitality — Failures in adopting the Trappist discipline 138 CHAP T E R X. AMONG THE KABYLES. Myths of Atlas and Hercules — Greeting to the ' New Atlantis ' — Statistics of Algerian populations — The Arab and the Kabyle compared — Democratic polity of the Kabyles — The Kabyle in the matrimonial relation — Speculalions on the Kabyle race — Relationship of the Kabyle and the Berber — The fruitful plain of Mitidji — The Cactus a fence even against wild beasts — Primitive plough — The Promethean vap<Jn£ — A lady's trial of camel-riding — The Marabouts — The Valley of Tizi Ouzou — Kabyle girls and boys — Problem on Military Subjugation — Fort Napoleon — Fatima, the Kabyle Joan of Are — Offer to buy Mademoiselle as third wife — Tyrannical isolation of Arab women — General character Of the Kabyle . . . . .158 Contents. X

CHAPTER XL BLIDAH AND MILIANAH

— THE ARABS. Orange-orchards of Blidah — Cause and remedy of Malaria — The Gorge of Chiffa — Louis Napoleon's visit — Arab market — Qualities of the Arab horses — Milianah the Damascus of Africa — Description of the City — The fat woman — Heroic defence of Milianah against Abd-el-Kader — Suggestion to the conquered Arab Page iSx

CHAPTER XII. PLAIN OF SHELLIF.

— TENIET-EL-HAAD.— CEDARS. — DESERT. Progress of Steam towards the Desert — Arrival at Teniet-el-Haad — Rite an English as well as a French word — The plague of Locusts — Their devastations in 1867 — Migrations of Locusts and Ladybirds to England — Le Rond Point — Chain of African mountains — The Algerine Desert — Far out of the track of travel — The Cedars of Lebanon on Mount Atlas — Lamartine's visit to Lebanon — Dean Stanley's description of it — The climax of vegetable glory — The Heart of the Great Forest — The Owl and the Pelican of the Wilderness — 5000 feet above the level ofthe sea — Excelsior! — Optimism — Climatic influences of tlie furnace Sahara — The Salt river — Arab and Moorish women — The Delectable Mountain 193 C H A P T ER XIII. CONFLICT OF CIVILISATIONS. — FAREWELL TO Al-KK \.

French discouragement of Algerian exports — Experiment of Algerian colonisation — Productions and prosperity of Algiers — Injurious effects of Polygamy — The sensual Paradise of Mohammed — Moslem Girls' Schools under French auspices Ultimate extinction of Polygamy probable — Interior of B Moorish household — Madame Rayato Her dress and jewels — Her trenchant expressions cm Polygamy — Murder ofa French girl -- Discovery of lhe Moslem murderer - David's Sling Unwise war upon small birds Extension of African railways A lion-hunter from Gascony — Bounties for the s. rips ol V\ ild Beasts The Tomb of the Christian — Dr. McCarthy 's Researches oil Cæsar's Campaigns in Africa for the Emperor — The Tombeau M.i hi sen Abracadabra for Sancta Ec(c)lesia — The picturesque Arab Tent disenchanted — 'The crackling ot" thorns under a pot' — Oran deicribed 'The HtttltC Orient at Algiers recommended — Departure for Spam - Hispania rediviva 21S Contents. XI

CHAPTER XIV. SPAIN.

Re-working of Silver-mines — Vandalism destroying a Carthaginian Fort — • A Desert in Spain — A Riddle ancl its Solution — Health Stations in Spain — Spain and Africa contrasted — The City of Orihuela — Tempe and the Peneus inseparable — Plaintive Spanish Melody — Its resemblance to Arabic and Corsican Song — The Guitar an old deceiver — A Sunday Bull-fight in Mureia — Butchered to make a Murcian holiday — Fierce Andalusian bulls for the Arena at Madrid — The Coup de Grace — A burlesque Bull-fight — Skittles with Human Ninepins — Snobs and Nobs — Lord Ilowden's villa — Silkworms — Picturesque Costume ofthe Peasants Page 247

CHAPTER XV. ELCHE, ALICANTE, AND VALENCIA.

Approach to Elche — Varieties ofthe Palm — The driest Climate of Europe — Alicante — The Castle of Sax — The Plain of Valencia an Eden — The vegetable splendours of Valencia Vale due solely to irrigation — A beneficial climate for invalids — Suicides in a march under the Sirocco — Vampires 271

CHAPTER XVI. GRENADA, ANDALUSIA.

The pachydermatous Mule made sensitive — Mule driving — Andalusia a terrestrial Paradise — Oriental character of Spain — Spanish love of display — ' Virgilium tantum z-iiW — Reflections suggested by the Alhambra — Water-drinking — Fresh tears of the ghost of Boabdil — The Republicans feasted by the Author — Oration of an American Republican to the Spanish Republicans — A Federal Republic recommended to Spain — Enthusiasm of the Audience — Reminiscences of Washington Irving at the Alhambra — Changes in the Alhambra within forty years — Moorish wailing for the lost Alhambra — Diabolism of the Harem .. 283

CHAPTER XVII. FROM GRENADA TO MALAGA

— THROUGH THE SIERRAS. The vine-clad mountains around Malaga — Grape culture — Tramping out Grapes — Approach to Malaga — Malaga a sanitary resort^- Its winter Contents. XII temperature compared with that of other cities — Rumours of Insurrection — An anxious night — Suicide of Count Julian's daughter — Irrigation areas of Spain — Comparative values of irrigated and dry ground — Arcadia and Locomotives — Glories of Andalusia — 'God works for us ' — General sur vey of Spain — Spanish climate and intellectual influences — Travelling in Spain — Railways, Hotels, and Currency — Character of Spanish troops — Santi Ponche on the site ofthe Ancient Italica — Prevalence of Republicanism Page 303

CHAPTER XVIII. SUMMER IN SPAIN

— SCENES, SOUNDS, AND SENTIMENTS. The nominis umbra of Tarshish — Railways and Police Soldiers — The Due de Montpensier — Railroads and free-trade — Seville and its Cathedral — Caballeros de Dios, or gentlemen beggars — Oriental aspect of Seville — A Spanish steamer in 1543 — The Guadalquiver — Historical vicissitudes of Seville — Byron's celebrities of Seville — Oranges and Women — The Andalusian dances — A Funcion or dancing assemblage — Fatima — Throwing the handkerchief — 3000 women employed in the Tobacco Manufactory — Characteristics of Murillo's painting — His meditations in the Cathedral ol Seville — Fernando Colon, son of Columbus — The Moor Jaber, the originator of Algebra — Shop of Figaro, and Don Juan's house — File of Corpus Christi at the Cathedral — Pedro the Cruel — Padilla and Blanche of Bourbon — Relics of Roman clays — Antiquarian research — The ruins of Italica — Immortality in noseless marbles — The Amphitheatre of Italica — El.Yodo, the badge of Seville — Popular belies in the truth of Don Quixote — Gregory, the Guide and Warder of Italica — Montpensier's country palace 326

CHAPTER XIX.

Inl. 1, no. The skeleton of a city — Its solitary hotel — she sloiv of Florinda, Count Julian's daughter, and King Roderick — The original CMttttu eu Espagne — French mutilation of the Alcazar — Remonstrance ofthe Ancient To*. ledan Jews as not responsible lor the Crucifixion Eulogium on the Hebrew 1. 11 e Si olptured group us St. Raphael Slaver; us the mind to Symbols — Toledo and its American namesake Retrospect of Toledan history 'llu* Blades of the two Toledos— The Sword Factory- A Birmingham apprentice to sword-making — The moral ofthe Toledan sword-blade . ]6s Contents. XIII

CHAPTER XX. ALCOLEA, CORDOVA, AND ARANJUEZ.

The revolutionary victory at Alcolea — History of Cordova — Bachelors and male Palms — The Moorish tower of Cordova — The old Mosque — Its history — A Christian chained to a pillar for a quarter of a century — The Palace of Aranjuez — The Author summoned to appear before the Minister at Madrid — Disappointed political self-devotion Page 380

CHAPTER XXI.

MADRID— THE CORTES — JUBILEE OF THE CONSTITUTION. Caricature in the 'Gil Bias' — Preparation for the Jubilee — General Prim's policy — Summary of the new Constitution — Military spectacle — The German Forests the birth-place of Liberty — Don Carlos — Chartered rights of Spanish provinces — A Spanish Federation recommended — Inauguration of the Constitution — Living Murillos painted and framed — The Author renting a lamp-post — The representative men of Spain — The Cortes Hall — Many paintings of Kings, few of Patriots — Speeches of Leaders in the Cortes — Prim, Serrano, and Topete — The Cortes compared with the American Congress and the British Parliament — Military pageant — Superb Arab steeds of the Cavalry — ' Viva Constituciou Democratica ' — The Prado and the Gardens of Buen Retiro — The last act of the Constitutional Drama 391 CHAPTER XXIT.

MORE OF MADRID — THE ESCURIAL. Spanish political parties — The Cortes perpetuates itself — Night turned into day at Madrid — Spanish progress — Emigres — Visit to the Escurial — Its founder Philip II. — His death-chamber — A Jubilee of Industry suggested — Cornelio, the blind guide of the Escurial — Joseph Bonaparte — The Convent of Atocha — Tombs of Narvaez and O'Donnell — Abolition of the Salic law — Murillo and the Renaissance — The birth-place of the Poet Martial — Costume of the Aragonese 4'5

CHAPTER XXIII.

SARAGOSSA— THE MAID— THE BORDER— OUT OF SPAIN. Heroic sons and daughters of Saragossa— Story of the Maid of Saragossa — Funeral of Monarchy — Isabella's last Spanish breakfast — ' In the Bay of Biscay, O !'— Biarritz the pearl ofa Summer resort — Dynasty of Louis Napoleon — Angelic Advent to Spain LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Frontispiece— Monaco (coloured Lithograph) , . . . To face Title-page. PAGE I. St. Louis Rocks to face 26 2. Mentone (coloured Lithograph) „ 29 3. Bone Caves ,, 33 4. Italian Garden of the Doctor „ 39 5. Vico — Corsica , 74 6. Disguised Brigand ,, 105 7. City of Algiers ,, 119 8. Warrior at Prayer , 121 9. Street in Algiers ,, 125 10. How the Dey lost Algiers M 127 II. Shoe-Black „ 129 12. Ragged Brigade ,, 131 13. Moorish Tombs >? 1^ 14. Interior of a Mohammedan House ,, 149 15.

Pirate Cove ;> 153 16. Kabyles (copper etching) . . . . i( jcg 17. Kabyle Man and Woman 16 ! 18. Riding Camels to face 171 19. A Running Proposal of Marriage (copper etching) .. .. 178 20. Arab Women at Salt River i 214 21. Lady of Milianah 216 22. Moorish Lady of the Period 227 23. Arabs slinging at Birds to sac- 2^2 24. Tomb of the Christian 2-7 25. An Arab Tent to/fc* 241 26. Ticket Office for the Bull Fight 259 27. Palms at Elche ,»•, 28. The Alhambra j.^. 29. The Alhambra and Neighbourhood to fate sag 30. Moorish Door in Alhambra -,02 31. Aloes. Malaga ;) ,[2 32. Caballeros at Jaen n j 33. Seville Vendors -2n 34. Seville Cathedral - , r 35- Toledo \\ 36. Mosque o( Cordova ,gg 37. Napoleon's Grotto ~q0 38. Travelling Harem , , , 39. Lottery at Madrid te/tw 43a 40. Maid of Saragossa ... .p. Pierced Rock al Biarritz . ,Q SEARCH FOR WINTER SUNBEAMS.

PRELIMINARY CHAPTER. EXPLANATION OF THE TITLE— SUNBEAMS. "YIN WI "TIN in* — " Be light ! " " And light was."— Gen. i. 3. JSnprsM HEATHEN teacher, Longinus, found in [§fj||| I this extract the sublimest expression. What fcii-M world would have been ' without a Sun,' BHA Til the p0et Campbell brings home to us by the tenderest of illustrations. There is a Light which never was on sea or land. It consecrates the poet's dream. It is not this illumination, whose beams I would presume to search for ; neither is it the lumen siccum of the philosopher, nor the inner radiance of the spiritual life ; for these may be found in the untravelled tranquillity of scholastic leisure and domestic repose. My pursuit was for that Sunbeam, which makes the tree grow and the waters flow — which makes the earth warm, and the air sweet — which has, in its prismatic rays, colours to paint the beautiful flower and the pallid cheek.

The Sunbeams I craved are those which flow from that source whence "the Stars repairing in their golden urns draw light." I sought not the radiation which brings glowing heat, so much B Functions of Light. 2 as that which yields temperate warmth, and with warmth, relief, and with that, health. Hence, my search was for Winter Sunbeams. Although the search extended into the Summer, it ended — so far as my experience went — upon a Swiss mountain peak, where, 11,000 feet above the sea, the Sunbeams were discreetly mitigated by the aspect, and tempered with the temperature of a hundred snow-clad mountains. It would impair the cheerful spirit of these pages, were I to dwell on the physical infirmity which com pelled me to seek a gentle clime ; and yet, perhaps, the only utility — and I may add the primary object — of this volume is, to point out a path to health, which is such, because ' irradiate with beams Divine.' What a beam of light can accomplish — has it not been the theme of many a girlish composition, as well as of scientific disquisition ?

The regeneration of the Earth with every Auroral advent, is it not a perpetual hymn of praise to the Creator of light, and an ever during and radiant rainbow-covenant of His love ? What a beam can do, even after its untired tour of millions of miles, and through uncounted periods of duration — how it gilds the starry vault, and builds the heavenly structure — how before it the clouds about our star dissolve and the blackness of night is dis pelled ; and how chaos becomes cosmos, is but the type of what can be wrought upon the human frame and spirit by its sanitary and cheering influence. It is impossible sufficiently to aggrandize the wonderful functions of Light. All the ' powers ' of the Earth emanate from the Sun. It gives us coal, food, wind, and water. Efforts have been made to calcu late some of these mechanical powers, but they are incalculable.

Engineers may 'estimate' the work of the Sun in evaporation — A billion of tons a day, over one hundred and fifty millions of square miles, may, Its Medicinal Efficacy. 3 as they tell us, be lifted two thousand feet high every day, equal to a 90,000,000,000 horse power. Even this measures but the infinitesimal part of the Sun's power, as the earth receives only i-2,ooo,ooo,oooth of the heat of the Sun. How this wonderful power may be made available — how these horses may be har nessed to the chariot of the Sun, is less interesting to mortals, than how its sanitary qualities may be utilized. What medicinal efficacy the Light has ; how it works in the unseen chambers of the brain and body ; how it plays from the optic to every other nerve ; what relation it bears to the elements of our physical and spiritual nature — may, doubtless, be determined by the same law under whose administration it gives growth to the tree, glory to the grass, and splendour to the flower.

But what that law is, is one of the mysterious arcana of knowledge. We know that light is life-generating and health sustaining ; that without it, man becomes blighted, even as the parched grass of the field. Take away the light, and both serenity of mind and strength of body are gone. The very tissues of the body dege nerate in utter darkness. Take away the light, and the body becomes blanched, etiolated, and wasted. Go to the colliery or the dungeon, and you go to the limbo of ghosts ; not ruddy, healthy men and women. I need not refer to the catalogue of diseases belonging to darkness. ' Weeping and wailing,' even in this world, is an inheritance of many of our race before thrust into future ' outer darkness.' Aside from heat, light has its beneficent function. Experiments have shown that life itself will not be generated from the egg so soon in the dark as in the light.

Dr. Hammond once tried an experiment on the tadpole. That lively little batrachian was kept in its inchoate b Effects of Light on Mind and Body. 4 condition for 1 25 days, by confinement in a lightless vessel ; but fifteen days only were required for its magnificent maturity out of its wriggling nonage, under light ! We know how light affects the skin and its hue. This is illustrated under various conditions and lati tudes ; in the nightless Arctic regions, where if the sun goes down half the year, an aurora, or a snow hill, or ice mountain, keeps it up ; and thus, by reflected light, colours the Esquimaux into olive and brown; or on the African coasts, where the intensity of the perpendicular rays secretes in the cuticle a dark pig ment of wonderful gloss and glory ! How it affects the stature, the blood, the hair, the liver, the whole body in fact, inwardly and outwardly ; how it makes men muscular and healthy among mountains, and tiny and feverish among marshes ; how it makes one man or race sanguine, and another nervo-bilious in tempera ment ; how it affects conditions, customs, and life, — puberty, marriage, sterility, and longevity ; how the Light, or its absence, makes men savage or civilized, passive or active, doltish or intelligent, stationary or progressive ; how in one latitude, and under certain conditions, these effects may follow; while under another latitude, and under other conditions, other effects may ensue, — these are discussions which Hippo crates, Newton, Mead, Jackson, Lardner, Brewster, Lindley, Balfour, Draper, Hammond, Page, Herschel, Arago, Florence Nightingale, Sanson Alphonse, ami Dr. Forbes Winslow have considered in elaborate treatises.

It is enough for 'me to refer to them, in elucidation of my statements. In regard to the effects upon the human mind and health, induction has left us its repertoire of facts ; and has led us to generalize about the very colours ofthe spectrum. Red and yellow stimulate the brain; Its Sanitary Influences. 5 blue depresses, by exhausting the vital energy ; scarlet makes bulls, and some men, madly pugnacious. It has been likened to the sound of a trumpet. Green, violet, and all the sweet tints which Nature paints so often, and which suit the eye, even as the dark cave suits the eyeless fish — these soothe and caress, and have in their tints the elements of cheer and health. Pre dominating in the radiance, these elements make the life blood of Nature, organic and inorganic. With these elements predominant, come ventilated and lighted houses, fewer inhabited cellars, less corruption and uncleanness, and consequently less disease and death.

Not artificial light, which has its offensive effluvia, but the sweet sunbeams, — this is the light which should replace the dark corners of the earth, as the precursor of the full meridian of that better day coming. The utility of light has its application in the construction of hospitals, nurseries, bed-rooms, houses, streets, cities ; and, as we shall find out, in the arrangement of gardens, orchards, and forests ! Physicians have given us the record of diseases generated on the shady side of a building or street, and of cases cured by removal out of a dark into a bright room or locality. ' Obscurity hath many a sacred use,' as Bailey sings in his ' Festus '; but its medical uses are not so apparent, valuable, or sacred. Wounds heal more quickly, delirium departs sooner, and convales cence comes more rapidly when the system is under solar radiation.

There are exceptions to these deductions. The eye need not be blinded by excess of light. If you must go to Egypt and its hot sands, or to Algiers and its white streets and houses, or to Russia with its white snows, or to parts of France with its white chalk, or to Music of Light. India with its perpetual glare, — you may expect an over-excitement of the retina. Use dark glasses, or carry a yellow umbrella, or do as the parasol ant of Trinidad does, carry a green leaf over your head, if you can find no turban or other cover, and thus save eye and health from the injurious red and yellow rays. Thus, in travelling you may reverse the gloomy pic ture which the blind Milton so pathetically makes out of his darkness ; for then, with the seasons there will return day, and the sweet approach of eve and morn ; the sight of vernal bloom, and summer's rose ; the flocks and herds and hutnan face divine ; not cloud instead, nor ever-during dark ; nor from the cheerful ways of men cut off; nor the book of knowledge pre sented with an universal blank !

Then, you are not only prepared to be restored in health, but you are actually restored. Then you can enjoy all these effects of light in their æsthetic relations to the outer world. Indeed, but for these relations constantly re curring in my journeying, there would have been little for me to note. Wherever I found the volume of Nature open, there I found sunbeams to illumine and beautify. Whatever was seen in or around the sky, be it star or mountain, bird or tree ; whatever was painted in water, or written on rocks, had been glorified from this golden source. Light, like Sound, the learned tell us, comes to us in waves. Professor Maury has said, with philosophic truth and poetic beauty, that the organs of the human ear are so ordered that they cannot compre hend colour, any more than the eye can see sound ; yet, that we may hear over again the song of the morning stars ; for Light has its gamut of music !

The high notes vibrate with the violet of the spectrum, and the red extremity sounds the bass ; and though the ear may not catch the song that the Analogy between Light and Sound. 7 rose, lily, and violet sing, it may — for aught we know — be to the humming-bird, the butterfly, and the bee, more enchanting than that which 'Prospero's Ariel' sung to the shipwrecked mariners. Ah ! there is more meaning here for you, my ship wrecked brother, than meets the ear. The song which Light sings to your wearied spirit, may be the tone or tonic which will stimulate your flagging, suffering life! The gamut of Sunbeams, is it not a medical prescription, not in dead Latin, nor measured by Arabic signs, but in living letters of gold ? This idea of light may be considered fanciful. It is so, to a small extent, but not so much so to the scientific man.

Whether he take the theory of New ton or of Huygens — whether he regard light as minute particles, projected with inconceivable velocity from the sun, or as the undulations of an elastic ether — he will find in it many analogies to the phenomena of Sound. Light is so rarified as to offer no obstruction to the sun and stars in their movements ; but its vibrations are so substantial, that by them our eyes are struck, our nerves moved, and the sensation of light produced, just as the vibrations of the air make sound for the ear. The frequency of the pulsa tions or vibrations of the air determines the note ; so the frequency of the appulse of light impinging upon the eye determines (as it is held) the coldur ofthe light ! It may be most interesting, indeed, to search for the sunbeams which make music for the birds, butter flies*, and bees, and which these interpret to us ; but when health is in question, the hard facts of meteoro logy and optics become of paramount consequence.