Adventures in the Pacific; with observations on the natural productions, manners and customs of the natives of the various islands; together with remarks on missionaries, British and other residents, etc. etc

Preface

. The Pacific Ocean has of late excited great interest in the minds, I may say of all Europe, in consecpience of the political transactions occurring at the Poly nesian Islands, particularly at " Tahiti." The aggressions of the French havexaused England to be on the watch, and Queen Pomare's remote but beautiful islands have and are likely to produce differences be tween those two great powers. The officers on so distant a station being too far off

PREFACE.

. to receive their despatches quickly, might, on some sudden impulse, do a rash act, that would terminate all friendly diplo macy. However, it is to be hoped that those gentlemen now intrusted with com mand will possess a share of the wisdom that guides the councils of their respective governments, and do nothing but what may tend to the interest and wel fare of all. My last voyage extended to a period of four years, leaving London in 1832, passing round Cape Horn, touching and lying at anchor at a number of ports on the west coasts of both South and North America, stretching off westerly among the various islands in the North and South Pacific, crossing the meridian of 180°, and then among those in east longitude ;

PREFACE.

. V returning again by the South Pacific to the Polynesian group, and finally fitting out the ship for home at Tahiti, from whence we sailed over to Eimeo, took as passenger on board a missionary, who had been a great many years on these islands, Mr. Armitage and his family, and arrived in London in 1836. During such a voyage, and at such distant places, a variety of incidents must necessarily occur — some comic, some deeply tragic. A few of those I now give to the reader, reserving others for future purposes. Being strictly authentic, the senior reader may feel an interest in them, and the junior be amused by the shooting, fishing, and sailing excursions, with the exploring rambles on uninhabited islands. A VI

PREFACE.

. In order to save some readers the trouble of a reference to scientific books, I divest this altogether of the technicali ties of botany and natural history ; and wherever a native name occurs, I have written it down as correctly as I could from the sound of it conveyed to me. J. c. Dublin, September, 1845. PAGE 1 11 19 CONTENTS.

Chapter I

The ship — Get to sea — Strong adverse winds — Put back to Spithead — Final departure — A gale of wind — Scudding before it — Repair damages — In fine weather

Chapter II

The great beauties of a tropical sea — Endless variety of fish — Sea fowl — Fine climate — Western Islands — Cape De Verds — Island of Brava — Remarks on the town — Slave depot — Visit to the governor — Consequences of want of rain — Miserable state of the island — Departure CHAPTER, III. Crossing the equator — Neptune's day — Amusements — Sail southerly — Fall in with ice islands — Falkland Islands — Description of them — Vast numbers of birds — Procure large quantities of eggs, geese, and rabbits — At sea again — Passage round Cape Horn — Catching the albatross — Coast of Chili — Anchor in the bay of Talcahuana, seaport of Conception.— Description of it and the town CONTENTS.

Chapter IV. Page

Anchor at Juan Fernandez — State of the island — Huts of late inhabitants — Scenery — Natural productions — Goats, dogs, &c. — Hunting and shooting bullocks — Procure wood and water— Leave the island . . . .31

Chapter V

Sailing along the coast — Gallapagos Islands — Anchor at La Floriana or Charles Island — Description of it and its anchorage — An account of Pat, and his adventures while living alone on this island for years — Barbarous treatment of him by an American captain — His revenge — Excursion to Guyaquil for a wife — His death 38

Chapter VI

Governor Vilamil and his new colony — Their hospitality — Amusements — System of government — Report of Vilamil's assasination — Johnston — His life on the island — Vilamil's vile treatment — Banishes him off — Sealing — Shooting — Flamingos, &c. — Remarks on men living alone on uninhabited islands . . . . .51

Chapter VII

Departure from Charles's Island — Minute description of the fitting up of a ship and boats for sperm whaling — method of taking the whale — -Dangers attending it — Cutting off the blubber — Final disposal of it — Take a large whale — Cruising in the bay of Albemarl Island — My first and successful attempt in killing a whale CONTENTS. IX

Chapter VIII. Page

Anchor at Chatam Island — Form an encampment on shore for the crew — Description of it, — Natural history of the island — My resolve to explore it — Commence my tour — First night alone — How to search for and find fresh water — Discovery of a large valley in the centre of the island — Its great fertility — Fall in with a fine stream of fresh water and numbers of wild goats — Annoyance from hawks 89

Chapter IX

Ranging through the valley — Discover large quantities of coal— Scenery at the extremity of the valley — Curious cascade and passage ofthe stream towards the sea — Arrive at the sea side — Encamp — Catch some fish — Method of cooking them — Providential escape from sharks — Kill a large seal — Make moccasins of his skin . . .106

Chapter X

Proceed round the island— Extinct volcanoes — Lightning, loud thunder, and heavy rain — A grand waterfall — Discover a hut — Remarks on two men who lived in it — Find more coal, beds of sulphur, iron ore, and mineral springs ......... 120

Chapter XI

Fall in with an old clearing — Ruins of a hut, and skeleton of a man in it — My method of burying it — Arrive at the encampment — Find all gone away — Explanatory note from the captain — Arrival of the ship again — Leave the X CONTENTS. PAGE island — James's Island — Meet with Johnston — De9crip tian ofthe island — General remarks on the political position of Gallapagos Islands with respect to the passage across the Isthmus of Darien 131

Chapter XII

Arrive off the Marquesas Islands — Trading with the natives — Precaution necessary — Description of their canoes — Fishing-gear — Methods of taking fish — A nearly fatal fishing adventure — Scenery at the Marquesas — Natural productions . . . . . . • .150

Chapter XIII

Native houses — Method of sleeping — Amusements, dancing, singing, &c The tahooa, or theatre — Licentious entertainments — Comparison with other natives — Loose conduct of ships' crews — Fertility of the islands — False trading with natives — Its consequences — Cannibalism — Peculiarity of their fighting — Europeans living with native*- — Arrive at Hivaooa, or Santa Dominica — Trading with the natives — My excursion on shore — Heavy storm— Ship blown off — I am left behind — Shooting with my rifle — Natives at war — Cause of it — Timooa — his speech — Council of war . . . . .165

Chapter XIV

A review of savage warriors — I am compelled to dress as a Marquesan — An extraordinary feast after the review Another storm — One of the scouts found dead at the defences — Method of burial — Great superstition of the natives — Its consequences to me — Obliged to submit to be tatooed — Manner of performing the operation — My complete appearance as a native — Fishing excursion — Scenery of this valley CONTENTS. XI PAGE 245

Chapter XV

The alarm — A Marquesan battle — Dreadful termination of it Cannibalism — The cause of the war removed — Peace — Preparation for a fishing excursion at sea — Unexpected arrival of my ship — Leave the island — Arrive at Nukahiva — Remarks on the natives there — Difficulties to be encountered by the missionaries . . . .220

Chapter XVI

Robert's Island — Dangerous passage through the surf — Land — Find Holt and Butler on it; — Detained on shore by the surf — Get off to the ship — The Low Islands — A description of them — Arrival off the Georgian Islands .

Chapter XVII

Tahiti — Anchor at Papete harbour — General description of the Island, its harbours, town, &c. — Missionary stations — Natural productions — Christianity among the Tahitians — Contrast with other natives — Exertions of the Missionaries — Sail for Eimeo— -Anchor in Poopooa, or Cook's Bay — Scenery — Missionary stations — South Sea academy — -Missionaries on the island — General remarks on the natives ........ ADVENTURES IN THE PACIFIC.

Chapter I. The Ship Get To Sea Strong Adverse Winds Put Back

TO SPITHEAD FINAL DEPARTURE A GALE OF "WIND SCUD- DING BEFORE IT — REPAIR DAMAGES — IN FINE WEATHER. The new ship " Stratford " was built at the yard of Mr. White, Cowes, Isle of Wight, and did him ample credit. She was a beautiful model of naval architecture, and her sailing qualities first-rate. She was not intended to carry passengers, there fore her accommodations were expressly for the officers and crew. They were, in every respect, comfortable, and suited for the frequent changes of climate which she p. LEAVE ENGLAND — ROUGH WEATHER. sailed through. In the month of October, in the year 1832, she was ready for sea, having all her stores, guns, &c, on board, with a fine strong crew and agreeable officers, Captain Abijah Lock (well known in the South Seas) for her captain, and the writer of this for her surgeon.

We were towed down to Gravesend, thence proceeded round to Spithead, the general starting port for all long and adventurous voyages. Here she was brought up for about a week, in order to again set up all her new rigging, in every way to prepare for departure, and receive our final instructions. We put to sea with light winds, which soon changed to strong southerly ones, and increased to so violent gales that we could not beat down channel, therefore bore up, and passed through the Needles to our old berth, inside the Isle of Wight. PUT BACK — FINALLY SAIL. 3 The heavy winds so strained our new rigging, that we were obliged to remain for some days, to set all to rights again. During our stay here, we were obliged to let go the second anchor to hold on. Such was the severity of the gale, that several large ships drove from their anchors, and all the large men of war, the Caledonia, Vernon, &c, struck yards and masts.

At last the sun shone brightly on us, and having got our anchors to the bows, with all sail set, we finally got off. A ship is never either clean or comfortably quiet until she gets well away, and that every man that is in the habit of living on shipboard well knows. While the ship is at anchor, the constant coming and going of visitors, the real torment of officers, never having their cabins or mess rooms private, and constantly on the move to show every courtesy, is sometimes (though AT SEA it appears all very pleasant) a real source of annoyance, particularly as they well know they cannot go once on shore to spend a day or evening, for every ten their nominal friend comes on board, so that it is with no small feeling of inward pleasure that every sailor, from the stem to the stern of the ship, really feels himself at sea.

The ship's company being divided into their respective watches, strict regu larity prevails, and all is, comparatively speaking, quietness. The ship sailed very fast, and with the exception of taking an occasional reef in the topsails, we had little to do but look about us for a few days, and enjoy our selves talking over shore scenes, all the time steering about S.S.E. When so far as the latitude of 45° N, it began to look dark to the northward and westward, and ihe quicksilver in the barometer fell seve- THREATENING WEATHER — TAKE IN SAIL. 5 ral degrees. We prepared to receive the visitor in the usual manner — that is, by making every thing aloft all snug, tricing up the boats, and otherwise well securing them, (for boats are things which are well taken care of always) ; and though last, not least to be despised, all the delft and glass are stowed comfortably away, and tin-ware put in their places.

Being now perfectly ready for the dark-looking gen tleman to windward, coming fast down after us, the breeze died away, until the ship had scarcely steerage way on her. After a little the air felt cooler, the wind freshened up, and blew from the northward — another hand was added to assist in steering. On the gale came with a roaring sound, the ship kept right be fore it. We were now steering under a close-reefed main-topsail, and the ship fairly hissing through it ; the wind forced the A GALE OF WIND. swell fairly down, the clouds cleared away, and nothing could be seen but one bed of foam. There was a description of the sea then given, in a very few words, which I have not since forgotten : — "This is the old wash-tub, with the suds all on the top." Such are sailors that, amidst the war of elements which surrounds them, and often threatens them with instantly being engulphed, they will have their joke out.

Now no one could hear the other speak, such was the force of the storm. You could feel the ship almost lifted along. The scene was grand ; no pen could des cribe it ; the power of the great Creator's breath was on the water, and man was nothing. The surface of the water was blown up into mist, like spray which rose from the foam, as it were, like dust, to the height of several feet, and was forced along be- VIOLENCE OF THE GALE. fore and around us. On, on we went, like something carried along by an invisible power, over which man has no control. The wild but beautiful scene appeared un earthly ; there was something enchanting in watching the swift and silent passage of the vessel through this, as it were, hissing snow. To the non-nautical reader, I may here remark that the running of a ship before the wind creates both a different motion and noise in the ship, than one hove to, or running with the wind abeam.

The violence of the storm was now so great that any sound or noise we could make on board was inaudible from the roaring of the wind and foaming of the sea around us. The ship seemed to have life, and bounded away from every threatening wave. This being the first time we had an opportunity to run before the wind, or try SCUDDING THE SHIP. our new ship's qualities in scudding — in fact, we had no alternative, for the storm was too strong to attempt to round the ship to, we would have gone down in an instant — there were relieving tackles rove, lest the wheel-ropes should part ; and, as we had nothing but a clear sea before us, every one watched closely the ship's action, on her new and first trial in this way. The old seamen looked excited and pleased ; the younger ones at last felt so much de lighted with the ship, that they danced and weaved their clear arm (for one held on), and appeared like madmen.

During the night, which was pitch dark, the phos phorescent appearance of the water illu mined every thing. It seemed then as if the wand of enchantment had changed the water into boiling fire, and that we were rushing through it. Throughout the gale, the ship required the most careful steer- THE SHIP'S ACTION IN THE GALE. 9 ing ; but there was every pleasure with her, she steered so easily and beautifully ; none, of course, but the most experienced hands were sent to relieve the wheel. This trial stamped her down, in the minds of all, as being a "jewel of a ship." When the wind began to decrease, the sea began to rise very high ; then the rolling mo tion was very unpleasant ; but what com pensated for that was, we lessened our lati tude some hundred miles, and got a quick passage into fine weather.

I have often been in gales of wind be fore, but have not experienced so severe a one, for the time it lasted * it was more like one of those typhoons which occur on the coast of Japan, than any thing else. In this, the sea was blown smooth down ; generally with gales in the Atlantic there is a long deep swell. After such a storm as this, there is plenty of work in all de- B REPAIR DAMAGES. partments on board — the sailmakers to re pair sails, the carpenters to the woodwork that has been carried away or otherwise damaged ; the sailors to the rigging, which has all been strained, and requires tight ning up ; in fact, ever one to his own branch ; but having plenty of hands, our damage was quickly repaired, and we kept on our course with a fine steady breeze. THE TROPICS. 11

Chapter II. The Great Beauties Of

A TROPICAL SEA ENDLESS VARIETY OF FISH SEA FOWL FINE CLIMATE WESTERN ISLANDS CAPE DE VERDS ISLAND OF BRAVA REMARKS ON THE TOWN SLAVE DEPOT VISIT TO THE GOVERNOR CONSE- QUENCES OF WANT OF RAIN MISERABLE STATE OF THE ISLAND DEPARTURE. In running down the latitude and getting within the tropics — that is, between the latitude 23° N. and S. of the Equator — the sky is monotonous, and has not that constant variety, as in higher latitudes. It is generally a clear blue, getting a duskier hue as you go on, with an occasional light, small cloud ; but the water affords charming variety — it becomes of a deep blue colour. You can look deep into it, and then you will perceive that it teems with life. You will see an occasional fly- VARIETY IN THE TROTICS. ing-fish endeavouring to escape from the dolphin ; thousands of bonitos and albicon around, and accompanying the ship ; whales of every kind blowing the water from their spout-holes, and ploughing along, occasionally breaching clear out of water, and ex hibiting a sized fish that any Waltonian might well stare at !

Hundreds of miles from any land, you will often meet with a turtle floating on the water, and a few birds in the air flying round the ship, such as the Cape pigeon, a beautiful white bird, with a few black spots ; the Tropic bird, about the pigeon size, of a pure white, with two long feathers in the tail, and a red bill. Sailors generally term this bird the "boatswain," as it sails over and around the ship, looking well at it, apparently to see if all is right and ship-shape. It often surprised me how many people considered being at SPEAK A SHIP. 13 sea monotonous ; to any man whose mind is not totally absorbed with something afar off, there presents to his sight an endless variety. We made the Western Islands, and hove to for a short time off Fayal, to test our chronometers, and the accurate adjust ment of the sextants, quadrants, &c. We had an excellent opportunity of doing so as the weather was smooth and sky clear.

Having satisfied ourselves on this head, we continued our course onwards, occasionally speaking a vessel either homeward or outward bound. One large brig from Plymouth, bound to the Cape of Good Hope, spoke us, and the captain told us he had been chased by a pirate for several hours, begged we would keep company for a few days, for protection sake, par ticularly as both our courses were south- CAPE DE VERDS ISLANDS. erly. We did so for two days, but lost him afterwards in the night. Being a very dull sailer, we had to go under short ened sail, and he under all sail to keep up with us. Next land was the " Cape de Verds Islands." Ran in past Fogo, and lowered three boats to go on shore at Brava, to try and get some fowl and vegetables. In all expeditions to the shore, I was al ways one of the party, and on this one the captain also came, as we intended to pay our respects to the Governor of the island.

We entered the only landing-place — a small bay, or rather a chasm between two immense high and steep rocks — and landed on the beach, at the head of which was the town, consisting of about a dozen or so of low, miserable-looking, stone houses. Having placed the boats in charge, the BRAVA captain and I, accompanied by a mer chant resident there, a tall, old Irishman, strolled about to see every one and every thing. One large kind of storehouse attracted my attention, and I asked what was it for. Our friend told us, in plain English, it was a " slave-pen." It was now empty, but was not so a short time since, as a large brig had taken the stock off to the Brazils, and landed them safely, too — there were two hundred and seventy. It seems this island is a depot for the slaves brought from the coast of Africa, which is only a short distance off.

They remain here in the "pen" until an opportunity offers to take them safely away. It gave rise to painful reflections to look at the " pen," and contemplate the purpose to which it was applied. Leaving the tall merchant behind us, we procured donkeys to pro- THE GOVERNOR'S HOUSE. ceed to the governor's residence. Our road was a very difficult ascent through a rough stoney gulley among rocks. Those patient beasts took care of both the rider and themselves, making an occasional stand to rest. At last we got to a piece of level land, (earth for a wonder), of considerable extent, on which stood the governor's house, the chapel, the jail, together with several other houses scattered about. There were a few plantain trees, with gardens containing Indian corn, melons, pumpkins, sweet potatoes, &c, but all in sad condition for the want of rain, which had not fallen for a long time.

Indeed, some time before our arrival, hundreds of the unfor tunate inhabitants perished for want of food, and in place of our getting any re freshments here, we sent them a quantity of bread and flour from the ship. THE GOVERNOR. 17 The governor was, of course, a Portuguese officer. His costume consisted of an old faded military blue jacket, with old gold epaulettes, duck trowsers, canvas shoes, but no stockings. In spite of this costume, his manners were gentlemanly. He received us kindly, and gave us a lunch of preserved meats, fruit, &c. His lady had neither shoe nor stocking on. His excellency was annoyed with toothache, and was delighted at my arrival. With an old instrument which he had, I took it out, to his great satisfaction, and the amusement of his children, which were not a few.

Indeed his residence appeared to be the only part of the island which was not barren. We took leave of him, being now about a thousand feet above the level of our ship, which we could scarcely see. We com menced our descent, which was a merry one, laughing the whole way down to the SAIL TO THE SOUTHWARD. beach — occasionally had a tumble — got into our boats, and pulled on board ; made all sail to the southward, close hauled on the trade winds. CROSSING THE LINE.

Chapter III. Crossing The Equator Neptune's Day Amusements Sail Southerly Fall In

WITH ICE ISLANDS FALKLAND ISLANDS DESCRIPTION OF THEM VAST NUMBERS OF BIRDS PROCURE LARGE QUANTITIES OF EGGS, GEESE, AND RABBITS AT SEA AGAIN PASSAGE ROUND CAPE HORN CATCHING THE AL- BATROSS COAST OF CHILI ANCHOR IN THE BAY OF TAL- CAHUANA, SEAPORT OF CONCEPTION DESCRIPTION OF IT AND THE TOW-N. We sailed on over smooth water, and with fine weather, seeing and being accompanied by a great variety of fish, from the whale to the flying-fish. Passed the equator, (for tunately with little calm weather), in the usual manner — that is, having one liberty day for all hands, and the shaving-shop underweigh, to initiate those who had not crossed the line before. There was the usual dramatis personœ — viz., Neptune with a great oakum beard, a wig of no NEPTUNE AND HIS CREW. ordinary size, surmounted by a tin crown, and in his right hand his trident, alias a fish grains.

His majesty was accompanied by his barber, armed with his razor, which consisted of two pieces of iron, made of old iron hoop, the blade about a foot long, rough enough for any purpose. His lather-box contained a very well-scented compound of tar, grease, and some other dirty stuffs. The washing basin used on this occasion was an iron tank, brought on deck for the purpose, and nearly filled with water. There is no use in delaying the reader by describing the rest of the suite ; sufficient to say, they were all chips of the same block. There was not one in the ship who escaped a bucket of water on this oc casion ; but there were some who were, by Neptune's peremptory orders, well la thered, well scraped, put sitting (blindneptune's method of shaving. 21 folded) on a seat beside the tank, and after apologising for any trouble or annoyance he may have given his shipmates, and pro mising to be a pleasant fellow for the future, some one near capsized him backwards into the water tank, to seal his sincerity.

There is no use in making a row about it ; his majesty being absolute, there is no appeal ; if any one should prove refractory, he is first well pummelled, then well shaved, and finally well soused in the tank, Neptune's gang being powerful enough to execute his orders to the letter. If there should be such a thing on board as a disagreeable shipmate, it is generally discovered before the ship reaches the line, where Neptune is sure to reward him according to his de serts. One good trait in his majesty's character is, that, with the exception of a little lather, and a slight splash of water, the boys of the ship are safe ; but to be AMUSEMENTS — SAIL SOUTHERLY. sure of it, they are generally dressed up, and form some of his imps, and imps they certainly then prove themselves to be. The decks having been cleared up, and the men having changed clothes, the grog goes round, and fiddling, fife and drumming, and dancing, close the entertainments of this mystic day.

We made the best of our way to the southward, and in the latitude of about 46° S. encountered a great many ice islands, some of them of vast extent, and of all manner of shapes. Here we were obliged to keep good look outs, and be otherwise careful. However, we got through this obstacle, assisted by stiff breezes, and reached the Falkland Islands, where we came to an anchor for a few days. I had every opportunity of examining those islands, at least some of them. They have many fine bays and inlets, well sheltered ; FALKLAND ISLANDS. the land or earth appears to be good ; it is covered over with long grass, and much tussie, with plenty of peat. There are no trees, all being of the small stunted scrub kind, good material only for brooms. There is plenty of fish, and seal about the rocks ; and on the land plenty of geese, pen guins, and albatross, with thousands of rabbits.

These islands are called, in the Southern Atlantic conversation, the " egg market ;" and well supplied it is, too, dif fering from markets in other places in this respect, that here there are no inhabitants, consequently nothing to pay, at least at the island where we lay ; in others you often pay well for less value. Now, these geese, and penguins, al batross, &c, who have colonized this place, have very considerately, for any ship's crew, and perhaps for themselves too, built their nests in streets of about two or three miles LEAVE THE FALKLAND ISLANDS. in length, and three to six feet wide. This arrangement is very convenient in every respect. The birds can easily hold a con versation across this street ; and the sailors can walk up the centre of it, beat them out of their nests, and march off with the good eggs, thoughtfully leaving behind two or three bad ones, as an inducement for the inhabitants to return to their homes after the invasion.

After we procured about six or seven tons of eggs, killed a good many seal, shot a number of rabbits, and strung our rigging with geese, we fired a twelve-pounder car ronade for curiosity, to see how many birds would rise in sight. We got up our anchor, and left this decidedly capital place for food and fun. We had scarcely got clear of the island, which was one of the most westerly of the group, when we encountered a smell of a CAPE HORN. south-wester, in the shape of a stiff gale. Double-reefed the topsails, &c, and made the ship otherwise snug for a real beat ing match round Cape Horn. After about three hard weeks of it, we got well to the southward and westward of the Cape. All this time the weather was the same, though it was midsummer here, January and February ; yet we had violent gales from the southward and westward, right in our teeth, with hard hail and snow showers, and a long, deep, regular sea, with a fine thundering crest on the top of the wave, tumbling down and boiling in the bed of the sea.