In France with the Germans

Chapter I

Conclusion of the Capitulation.— Mr. Hatt's Brewery. — Galgendorf. — Muster of the Garrison. — Appearance of the Troops. — General Uhrich. — The Attack on Strasburg. — A Look-out from the Minster 1

Chapter II

Material of War. — Regulation of Transport. — The Prussian Army admirably provided. — Contrast in Arrangements for Sick and Wounded. — Cruel Neglect and Illiberality of Government. — American System

Chapter III

Arrogance of Prussian Officials. — The Affair of Mr. Jacoby. — General Vogel von Falkenstein's obstinacy, blunders, and retrograde ideas. — On my way to Metz. — Insolence of Railway Officials. — Ars-sur-Moselle. — Princess Salm Salm. — Metz— Past and Present. — The Siege CONTENTS. IV pag:

Chapter IV

Delay in reaching Nancy. — Sufferings of the wounded. — Severe measures taken with Frouard. — Description of Nancy. — Arrival at Toul. — The Bombardment. — Bar le Due. — The Camp at Chalons.— Contrast. — Conduct of the Moblots. — Chateau Thierry. — Francs-tireurs. — Soissons. — Meaux 85

Chapter V

Entry of the King into Rheims. — The blowing up of the Fort. — General Theremin. — The King's Quarters. — His Majesty's Household. — Prussian Artillery. — Losses in the Battles. — Ancient Wars compared with Modern. — Paris and her Besiegers 129

Chapter VI

The Patriotism of Versailles. — A Surprise. — A Gallant Hussar. — Negotiations. — Military Etiquette, and Civic Sensibility. — The Town resigns itself to its fate. — Arrangements. — The King's Head-Quarters. — Entry of the Crown Prince. — Good Conduct of all parties. — False Rumours. — A Prosperous Restaurant. — Female Politicians. — Count Moltke.— -Simplicity and Frugality of the King 172

Chapter VII

Life at Versailles. — The Palace during the occupation. — Wounded in Hospital. — German superstition. — Letters of Protection. — The Field Post. — Papers.from Paris. — The Surrender of Metz. — The Siege 213

Chapter VIII

A peep at Paris. — St. Cloud. — Traditions of the Palace. — Assassination of Henry III. — Proclamation of Henry IV. — Mazarin's device to force Hevard into selling the Villa. — Henrietta of England. — Death of Madame. — The King of Rome. — St. Cloud. — Preparations for leaving Versailles. — A new Joan of Arc . . . CONTENTS. V tag:

Chapter IX

False news spread by the Republican Government. — Gambetta, his Fanaticism in Politics ; his energy, talent, and first successes. — The New Armies. — Supplies of Arms. — General Motterouge. — Capitulation of Orleans. — Recapture of Orleans. — Blois. — Garibaldi routed. — Defeat of Loire Army. — Neubreisach. — Dijon 260

Chapter X

Detention at Frankfort. — General Sketch of the War. Prince Frederick Charles. — Occupation of Blois. — Taking of Vendome. — General Bourbaki. —The end of the Army of the Loire. — The Army of the North. — General Faidherbe. — The Armistice. — A dangerous Bridge. — Villeneuve le Roi 312

CHAPTER XL

Excursion to Trianon. — Little Trianon. — The Park and Town of Meudon. — Fort Issy. — St. Cloud. — Destruction. — Mutilation of Statues. — Ruins. — The Contents of the Wine-cellars. — Explosive Bullets. — A stuffed Bear. — Sevres. — Environs of Paris 328

Chapter XII

The Railway Station. — Paris. — The Shops. — The Crowd. — Election Manœuvres. — Letters stopped. — A Scanty Meal — The Palais Royal. — The Hotel d'Espagne. — Special Correspondent Stories. — A Parisian Market-hall. — Liberty, Fraternity, Equality. — Prints and Caricatures. — Street Songs.— Trochu. — Newspapers ... LN FRANCE WITH THE GERMANS.

Chapter I

Conclusion of the Capitulation. — Mr. Hatt's Brewery. — Galgendorf. — Muster of the Garrison. — Appearance of the Troops. — General Uhrich. — The Attack on Strasburg. — A Look-out from the Minster. TN the night we were disturbed by the return -*- of the Garde Landwehr to then* quarters. On arriving at the gate of the fortress, the officer commanding there had told them that he had orders not to fire, but also to refuse entrance to any one. AVe did not know what to make of it, and some were fearful that the whole thing might be a trick to gain a couple of hours' rest. Our fears were, however, appeased in the morning by the news that the capitulation had been only concluded at two o'clock, a.m., and that the garri son of the fortress would lay down their arms on VOL. II. THE GARRISON LAY DOWN THEIR ARMS. 2 the glacis at 11, a.m, for which ceremonial the soldiers received orders to make ready.

I, of course, could not miss such an historical spectacle, though it is a rather sad one, especially if the conquered have defended themselves bravely. The Aveather continued to be fine, and accom panied by the railroad architect of the pioneer sergeants, who had not to join his company, I went clown the road leading to Strasburg. After having proceeded some little distance, my atten tion was attracted by something red amongst the green leaves of a field. It was the body of a French soldier, who had been kiUed at the sortie made on the 2nd of September, more than three weeks ago. On our road to the left Avas the very extensive brewery of Mr. Hatt. It was not burned down, but much injured by the sheUs and baUs fired against it, because behind it commenced a com munication trench leading to the first parallel, through which the troops from Oberhausbergen al ways entered the works.

The steam-engines in the brewery were not injured. Some of the shots had taken a very odd direction. One, for instance, had ricocheted on the hard clay, pierced a solid wall, passed through a large oaken hogs- GALGENDORF. 3 head, then again through another waU, and entered the station of the surgeons established in a building behind the breAvery. Some shells forced their entrance into the extensive cedars, and the beer stood two feet deep on the floor. There were, hoAvever, stiU many uninjured barrels, and the soldiers helped themselves. One of them offered me a most welcome chink, for the weather was very warm, and the beer was excellent. Close to the brewery was the ice-house. It was burnt down, but neither the fire nor the spilt beer could destroy the immense quantity of ice which formed compact masses, some ten or tAvelve feet in thickness.

Immediately behind the brewery was the little viUage of Galgendorf, a kind of suburb, owing its origin, I suppose, to the brewery. A quantity of its houses were burnt down, others were shattered to pieces, but most of them were riddled with gun-shots in the most wonderful manner. They were chiefly frame houses, and looked now like skeletons. It is a pity that no photographer was at hand, for no fancy of an artist is fertile enough to invent such curious shapes as were here Avorked by chance. On the top of these skeleton houses, and look ing out of the windoAv-holes, were soldiers, assem- 1—2 COMMENCEMENT OF THE ATTACK. 4 bled to witness from those high points the memorable scene about to be enacted at some distance before them. Only a part of the 80,000 men who besieged Strasburg were ordered on duty there.

The painful ceremony was to take place on the right wing of the first parallel, on the glacis between the Porte de Laverne and the Porte Nationale, called by the Strasburg people AVein thurmthor (AVhite Tower Gate). Soon we arrived at the counterscarp of the Lunette No. 44, an advanced work built for the protection of the railway station to our left, of which two round locomotive houses was still standing. A great many waggons, partly destroyed, were also there. The first attack had been directed against this lunette, and it had been heavily shelled, for the works of the assailants could not be commenced properly until it had been evacuated. The folly of not having any strong outworks here manifested itself very forcibly. Sensible people had very frequently urged the necessity of forts on that side, and money had indeed been granted, but was employed for other purposes.

The danger was not urgent, for the mere idea that Germans should cross the Rhine and attack Strasburg, as THE ARRIVAL OF THE GARRISON. 5 it were, from behind, was ridiculous. The Chinese would say it was unfair and shabby to do so, for the Prussians ought to have attacked from Kehl, where were a strong citadel and other works. A large horseshoe, with its open side towards the fortress, was formed on the glacis by the Prussian troops. I stood on the left end of that shoe, together with a motley crowd of officers and doctors of all German races. There were also some Swiss doctors in uniform, who did not seem at all to enjoy the faU of Strasburg, and many country people waiting for their relatives amongst the prisoners. AATe had to wait a good while, for the German pioneers had first to clear the way, and to rebuild a bridge at the White Tower Gate.

AVe amused ourselves meanwhile Avith admiring the effect of the shells against the lunette, and collected some curious pieces of them. I have, however, given up collecting these ponderous relics, lest I should have to carry them in a separate carriage. The garrison arrived at last at the right point of the horseshoe formed by the Prussian troops. At their head marched a band, for some military honours were allowed them. Three or four superior officers were on horseback, and all officers retained their swords. The French garrison pre- GENERAL UHRICH. 6 sensed arms, and the Prussians returned the compliment. Then the arms were laid down, which caused some excitement. Many broke their guns, others shed tears. The excitement O 7 was very natural, for firstly they were French, and secondly, the greater number of them were intoxicated.

General Uhrich, the brave governor of Stras burg, was there on foot. He is a short, rather stout, soldier-like looking gentleman. The Prus sian general, Von Werder, embraced him. To see the two stout short old generals thus moved must have been ridiculously edifying. I was too far off to enjoy the scene. In the same way Sayers and the Benicia Boy went out, arm-in arm, after they had thrashed each other. These sentimentalities being over, the French garrison formed in the open space of the horseshoe, and German troops, acting as an escort, hemmed them in. They Avere to march to a neighbouring village, to bivouac there, and then proceed to Rastadt. The whole French army of Strasburg, 17,111 men and 408 officers, had to pass before their conquerors ; and passed me at a distance of one yard. Thus I could see every face, and hear every word they said.

APPEARANCE OF THE GARRISON. 7 At the head of the troops marched the imperial gendarmes, a particularly roguish-looking set of rascals. Then followed the 10th regiment of chasseurs, then the 16th and 18th, and the 87th regiment of the line, headed by their colonel. AVithout this regiment Strasburg might have been taken by a coup de main after the battle of AVorth. It was, however, not the merit of the regiment ; it had been sent down into the country, but owing to their defective geographical know ledge they had lost their Avay, Avhen they met the runaways from AVorth. The regiment turned tail, and entered the fortress with, the rest ; where they were warmly welcomed, for Strasburg had scarcely any garrison, it having been taken for granted that the Germans Avould be whipped across the Rhine.

The soldiers looked respectable, for on the pre vious night they had all received neAv clothing. Many of them had three or four new pairs of boots on their knapsacks, and dozens of shirts, and other wearing apparel. Others had laden themselves heavily with miscellaneous things, which had a very thievish smell, and the same was the case with the heavy sacks they carried on their backs. Each of them had one or several loaves, and some lovers of vegetables had, on THE FRENCH OFFICERS. 8 crossing the fields, loaded themselves with heads of cabbage. A field with onions caused great excitement ; all the men broke from the ranks to pluck up their favourite vegetable. The sympathy I felt for the misfortune of the soldiers was much modified by the manner in which they bore it. Many Avere, as mentioned before, intoxicated ; and the rest, with some ex ceptions, behaved with great levity.

Some were rather excited, and cried out that they woidd return and wipe out the shame of that hour ; others said they had been sold and not conquered. Some insulted their officers, and even spit in their faces. The officers, avIio refused to give their word of honour not to serve any more in that war, and preferred captivity, behaved with dignity and proper feeling. When I heard the report of a shot in the column of prisoners, and looked from whence it came, I saw a struggle, and a Prussian gendarme on horseback dealing a blow Avith his sword. An artilleryman had concealed a gun under his great coat, with which he aimed at one of the escort. The gun was struck down, and the shot went off harmlessly, and instead of a savage revenge, the fanatic got a cut over his head. There were also some dozens of Zouaves and TURCOS. 9 Turcos.

They did not look so hideous as I ex pected, though some looked funny enough. One of them without a turban, had on his head only a stiff tuft of black hair, which waved most fan tastically at the jumps the black felloAV made ; he really behaved like a dervish in a dancing fit. Some of the Turcos looked even pretty, maybe they were women. That they had women with them became apparent, Avhen two Turcos were unexpectedly confined in a hospital at Coblentz. The Prussians were very lenient towards their prisoners. As there were many amongst the Mobile Guards from Alsace, their relations from the neighbourhood had come to bid them good bye. The boys left the ranks, and embraced their parents and sisters without any interference from the escort. The soldiers through whose ranks the column passed, especially the artiUery men, gave them cigars by handfuls and let them drink from their flasks.

The artillery corps in the fortress Avas stronger than was expected, they mustered about 4,000 men. Some of the French officers with Avhom I spoke, said that they might have held the fortress at least three weeks longer. They caUed General Uhrich a rogue, and had much to censure in re- GENERAL UHRICH'S DEFENCE. 10 ference to his defence. I did not give much credit to such talk, which is always to be heard in the ranks of a beaten army, or the garrison of a surrendered fortress. General Uhrich has acted as a brave governor of a fortress must act. He knew that no relief was at hand, and as soon as a practicable breach had been made, and he might expect to be stormed, and could do so according to the principles of military honour, he surrendered, in order not to render the inhabitants liable to the dreadful con sequences of storming.

This defence of Strasburg is equally glorious for General Uhrich, the garrison, and the inhabitants ; all three behaved with heroism. Only the stupid new republican government behaved as might be expected from wide-inouthed heroes like Gambetta, who talked much, and decreed much, but shunned the smell of gunpowder most carefully : that imbecile government called General Uhrich a traitor, when they ought to have voted him a laurel crown. He very properly answered this coward accusation from Basel, to which city he retired : " The way to Strasburg is open, go there and look at its destroyed citadel, its battered ramparts, its annihilated artillery, its untenable advanced GENERAL UHRICH'S DEFENCE. 11 works, and its tAVO-inch breach laid bastions ; stand stiU before the ruins of its monuments and houses, and consider the rain of iron, lead and fire, covering its whole ground ; examine these powerful, and until now unknoAvn missiles, which were hurled upon us from two hundred guns, and far from saying that the surrender of the city was anticipated, everyone wdl be astonished that the resistance lasted so long, that it was possible to endure for thirty-eight days and thirty-eight nights a bombardment unheard-of until now."

General Uhrich is, however, very much to be blamed, for not having communicated to the citizens the repeated notice from General von Werder, that the bombardment woidd commence. He only told them in vague expressions that the solemn moment was approaching. He neglected, also, the humane offer to send away a number of the inhabitants, saying that he could not make a choice from amongst 80,000. I suppose most readers knoAv what is meant by parallels, saps, and batteries ; but for those who do not know, a few words of explanation will not be superfluous. A fortress is a place surrounded with high ramparts, which are protected by more or less deep ditches, mostly fiUed with water. These ACCOUNT OF THE SIEGE. 12 ramparts are arranged in such a manner as to enable the garrison to sweep all the ground before them with their guns.

To achieve this purpose the better, and to bring the attacking enemy as frequently as possible, under a cross-fire, the line of ramparts is broken, and at certain distances bidges out into what are called bastions. The ground-line of a bastion looks like the outline of the gable-end of a common dwelling house, with a pointed roof. The roof -lines are called "faces," and the two house wall lines " flanks." The rampart connecting two bastions is caUed the " courtine." For the protection of the middle of the courtine detached bastion-like works called " ravelins " are sometimes built. Other detached works, built for the protection of the bastions, are called by different names, and some of them " lunettes." If a fortress is to be attacked, it must be first enclosed by a girdle of troops to cut off communication with the outside.

Batteries (that is, pro tected stands for guns) are erected everyAvhere to fire at the ramparts on aU sides ; but the regular and serious attack is always directed against a certain part of the ramparts, which is considered to be the most favourable, or the nearest, for a forcible attack against the whole fortress would ACCOUNT OF THE SIEGE. 13 cost immense sums and time, and be superfluous, as it is generally sufficient to enter the fortress at some part of the principal rampart to carry it. The attack against Strasburg Avas directed against the north-western part or front of its ramparts. The first thing to be done was to establish the first parallel — that is, to dig a line of deep ditches running paraUel to the general outline of the ramparts to be attacked. The earth thrown out of these ditches forms a protecting rampart on the side towards the fortress, and under this pro tection are built batteries for heavy mortars and guns.

As it wrould require too much time to com mence a parallel beyond the reach of the guns of the fortress, even the first parallel or line of ditch has to be dug under fire. As the enemy, how ever, know very weU the danger threatening them, they try aU in their power to drive away the Avorkmen by a shower of bullets, or even by sorties. The batteries in the first paraUel are, however, not near enough to effect a breach in the main rampart. Therefore a second parallel is required. To reach the fine traced for it, workmen from the first parallel advance towards it, always digging PROGRESS OF THE SIEGE. 14 under the protection, as it were, of a roUing rampart. Formerly, a strong round basket, filled with earth, was used for that purpose, behind which the pioneers crouched clown, always digging and pushing it forward.

The far more handy iron roller is now used. These trenches or approaches run in zigzag, as this manner offers the best pro tection. The second parallel is then built, the batteries are established, and the indefatigable pioneers creep on to a third, and sometimes even a fourth, parallel, built quite close to the main ditch of the fortress, in the same manner as explained before. The batteries there are close enough to work with great effect against the solid masonry of the ramparts. As the distance between two bastions is con siderable, the extent of the far off paraUels is very long, and aU these ditches form, as it wTere, a very extensive underground city. The work clone there may be judged from the fact, that the saps before Strasburg, from the top of the rampart to the bottom of the ditch, were ten feet deep, and wide enough for three or four men abreast.

That was, however, not all; for the batteries had to be built, and powder magazines to be arranged, which had to be protected against even shells dropping from the heights. In these ditches, THE MINSTER. 15 which are very intricate, way-posts are placed in numbers. The work of the pioneers, and the infantry as sisting and protecting them, is very troublesome and dangerous ; and as not many people under stand it, it is never sufficiently appreciated. The high steeple of the Minster was an ex tremely convenient look-out for the besieged, and in fact they could look from there into all the works of the Germans, and discover at once Avhere labourers were employed. If the Prussian general had only to act as a general, his first order would have been to destroy this dangerous building ; but as it was he took the utmost care to protect it as much as possible.

The French had established a telegraph station on the Minster, in the building of the guard, from where the batteries were informed of the points against which they had to direct their fire. The telegraph was plainly to be seen from outside, and to give them a hint, some shots were fired against it. One of them pierced the wall quite close to the telegraph. Instead of taking the hint, the French showed themselves always on the height ; and it was very natural that some of the artillerymen, who perhaps did not understand the value of that architectural monument, could not resist the temptation of sending up some balls THE BATTERIES. to drive them away, notwithstanding all the orders of the general. The foot of the large Gothic cross on the top of the Minster has been struck, and it is hanging over someAvhat on one side.

It is said that a gunner boasted he could hit the cross, and an officer hearing it, and not believing it possible at such a great distance, and to shame the boaster, said, " I will give you a thaler if you hit it." The ground before Strasburg is clay, and it is equaUy difficult to work in dry and in wet Aveather. On examining these parallels, one is amazed that such an immense amount of work could have been done in such a short time. It was not a good opportunity to examine the Avhole parallels and batteries at leisure, and I walked only through the first, and paid a visit to the great mortar battery standing there. - It was perfectly intact, and looked as if it had been built only a few clays ago. The mortars are breech loaders, and rifled. The shells are cylindric, with a point, are about two feet long, and have a diameter of eight inches.

Their effect is tremendous. One of these shells was lying on the ground, ready to be put into the mortar, when the white flag was discovered. The artdlerists had collected aU the cannou baUs which had faUen in their CUNNING OF A FARMER. 17 neighbourhood, formed a pyramid of them in the centre of the battery, and ornamented it with floAvers. Of the besieging army, there were only 600 men killed or wounded, amongst which num ber are counted even the slightly wounded. The number of killed was only 80. Everybody wanted to see Strasburg, and the road was croAvded. My two sergeants were very indignant, for the captain commanding their battalion ad interim (the major had been kiUed in the parallels) had prohibited his pioneers from visiting the city, to the conquering of which they had contributed so much.

With great difficulty, I procured from the farmer a one-horse leiterwagen. The road was crowded, and when Ave came to the end of the village, my four-wheeler vessel was boarded by a merry crowd of artillerists, who had set their hearts on inspecting their work in Strasburg, even at the risk of five clays of arrest, as threatened. The farmer made a wry face, and his bay horse telegraphed its displeasure with his tail ; but Prussian soldiers are irresistible, and I, laughingly, made room for them. The sly farmer got rid of his burden by showing them a nearer footpath, and we rolled towards the Weissthurmthor, which had been made practicable by the pioneers. VOL. II. RUINED STATE OF THE GATE TOWER. 18 I was utterly amazed when I entered Strasburg. The gate tOAver was battered almost to pieces, and I was really afraid, on passing underneath, that the Avhole tottering fabric Avould come doAvn and crush the writer, farmer, and bay.

The AYeissthurm Street (Rue du Faubourg Nationale) runs parallel to that face of Bastion No. 11, in which a breach was made, and caught all the shot and shells which passed over the ram parts. It was more injured than even Galgen dorf ; but towards the bridge, over the canal, some houses still stood, though none of them were wholly uninjured. The centre of the city of Strasburg is, as it were, situated on an oval island, formed towards the south by the little river IU, and towards the north by a canal running in a curve, commencing and ending in the 111 river. The suburbs are con nected with the city by means of nine bridges leading over the canal, and some six or eight over the 111 river. In the Faubourg Nationale the gardeners, who were extremely rich, and formed a kind of aristo cratic caste amongst the tradespeople, lived for centuries.

They had not many children, and those intermarried only amongst themselves. In their houses very interesting antiquities were to DESOLATE STATE OF STRASBURG. 19 be found, especially much curiously caiwed furniture, dating from the 15th and 16th centuries, and plate and pictures of some historical value. They are utterly ruined, and many of them, who only a short time ago were envied for their afflu ence, are wandering, desolate paupers, amongst the ruins of their homes. My knowing driver carried me through scoria streAvn bye-streets, to the principal square of the city — the Kleberplatz — so called from the bronze statue of General Kleber, which is erected in its centre. I alighted in the Hotel de la Maison Rouge, which was not injured much. This square had not escaped the sheUs either ; in fact, I do not think that there were in Strasburg 100 un injured houses.

The front of the houses facing the north had received many shots, though none were burned down ; but the opposite building, the Musee for pictures and statues, in which the great general staff of the fortress had their seat, was burned out ; only the walls were standing. The hotel was not much crowded yet, and I got a room on the second-floor, facing the square. It stiU looked decent, for the fragment of a grenade had pierced the shutters only, and broken one pane. The dining-room, on the ground floor, had also been visited by a big 2—2 MEETING OF LITERARY FRIENDS. 20 splinter of a shell, which had knocked out a whole casement, and broken one of the two large mirrors. The table was, hoAvever, laid, and some people at breakfast. One of them, on seeing me, jumped up, caUing out my name. It Avas M. Hermann Voget, the talented special correspondent of the Frankfort Gazette (not Journal), with whom I once passed an evening at his editor's, Dr. Volk hausen.

I had tumbled there on a Avhole literary nest. An old gentleman with white hair. Mr. Demmert, the architect of the grand ducal palace of ScliAverin, and the only liberal in his benighted grand duchy, recognised me also, after a steel engraved portrait in one of my books ; he had become a neAvsman, and Avrote for his native Times. A fine young man, Mr. AV. T. Rae, was presented to me, as the special correspondent of the London Daily News, and Mr. Jackson, as that of the New York Evening Post. Both these gentlemen spoke German very well, which was by no means the case with some other correspondents of English papers, who therefore wTere dependent upon the reports of those officers who understood English. After haAing breakfasted, and cemented our friendship with a bottle of excellent white Hermit age — the wine cellar had not been injured — we five press deAils resolved to undertake an exploring excursion.

Though the English element in our party longed much for the Minster, I persuaded them first to see those parts of the city near the ramparts, as their primæval features would soon be altered by the removal of all obstruction and rubbish. AVe therefore Avent first towards the Fishergate, crossing the 111 at the Pont Guillaume to the Fisherquay. As this row of houses looks towards the west, it was A'ery much exposed, and awfidly injured. The front of one large house Avas entirely knocked clown, and it looked like the representation of a house on the stage. The furniture in the rooms, however, was knocked to pieces, and it had a curious effect to see pendules under their uninjured shades on the mantelpieces. The beams of the ceilings were broken, and the ceilings hanging down ready to fall. I here met a poor man who was in search of his three motherless boys.