A Voyage to India

Front matter

WA j r. KV r" Painted hyJtrdt Engray^d h\ hTBond . Pui&fAed Azut I 1819 by Arch. * l£imie. Ahrrdsrn . A VOYAGE TO 3sntita* BY THE Rev. JAMES CORDINER, A. M. AUTHOR OF " A DESCRIPTION OF CEYLON," AND MINISTER OF st. Paul's chapel, Aberdeen. ABERDEEN: Printed by D. Chalmers Sf Co. FOR A. BROWN AND CO., ABERDEEN ; AND LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN, LONDON. 1820. TO THE EIGHT HONOURABLE THE EARL OF GUILFORD, <§-c. fye. fye. MY LORD, As you did me the honour kindly to receive my " Description of Ceylon," I beg leave to send you this small Volume, as an accompaniment to it. A narrative of a Voyage, which is now so often performed, has little claim to public attention, but may be acceptable to those Friends for whose use it is chiefly intended. The delay of this little Work's coming out, imposes upon me the melancholy duty A VI of condoling with your Lordship, on the lamented death of our much revered and most beloved Sovereign, George III., of blessed memory, to whom you and your illustrious Father were always so warmly ✓ attached.

May it be the will of the Almighty Ruler of hearts to enable us all to imitate his truly pious and virtuous example : and may God grant a long, happy, and prosperous reign to his Son, the high and mighty Prince, George IV., our most gracious King and Governor. I have the honour to be, With the utmost respect and esteem, MY LORD, Your much obliged humble servant, THE AUTHOR. Aberdeen, 1st March, 1820. PREFACE, BY THE AUTHOR. 1 left England nearly at the same time with the Most Noble the Marquis of Wel lesley, late Governor-General of India, with whom I had the honour of being in com pany at Madeira, the Cape of Good Hope, and Madras. I paid a visit to the island of Bombay, spent five years in Ceylon, and touched at St. Helena, on my way home. The voyage was rather longer than usual, being six months and thirteen days from Portsmouth to Bombay, and five months and twenty-four days from Madras to Dover.

In some cases, I have travelled the same a TREFACE. ground with Maria Graham ; but there is little or no similarity between the two pub lications ; at the same time there is no con tradiction. The " Journal of her Residence in India," which is written with spirit and intelligence, does her the highest credit, and bears upon it the stamp of truth. On my voyage home, I had the good for tune of being accompanied by Walter Fer rier, Esq., one of the most amiable young men whom I have ever had the happiness to meet with. He went to Madras as a free merchant, but the climate not agreeing with his health, he determined to return to his native country ; where, after his arrival, he served his apprenticeship as a Writer to the Signet in Edinburgh, and is now carrying on business with well-merited success. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Departure from Rritain — Voyage to Madeira — Description of that Island — Its Appearance, Situation, Roads — Hospitality of the English Merchants — Lord Mornington, now the Marquis of Wellesley — Manner of shipping Wine — Ceremony at crossing the Equator — Magellan's Clouds — Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, 17

Chapter II

Observations at the Cape of Good Hope — Its first Appearance — Table Mountain — Stormy Winds — Table Bay — The Cape Town — Fort— Climate — Constantia — Refreshments — Situation — Advantages — Departure from it — Situation at Sea — Lascars at Dinner — Arrival at Bombay, 39

Chapter III

Bombay Light House — Hospitality — English Church and Theatre — Scenery— Harbour— Dock — Bumbelo — Houses Customs — Population— Island of Elephanta, ...... X CONTENTS.

Chapter IV

Voyage from Bombay to Madras— Arrival at the Military Male Orphan Asylum there— Account of that Institution, and the Mode of Tuition practised at it— Female Asylum, and other Schools, 77

Chapter V

Description of Madras— -Fort St. George— Black Town — Climate Society Dr. Anderson The Marquis of Wellesley— Mount Road St. Thomas's Mount — Banqueting House— Lord and Lady William Beutinck— Customs— Government Thieving Bazar — Number of Inhabitants— . Indian Army, 93

Chapter VI

Voyage from Madras to Ceylon — Adventures at Sea— Unexpected Arrival at Trincomalee — Accounts of the taking of Seringapatam, 139

Chapter VII

Journey from Trincomulee to Columbo, 163 CHAPTER Till. Occurrences at Columbo, from 26th June 1799, to 21st December 1800 — Native reading a Bible Religion Balls — Bathing — Schools — General Thanksgiving— Character of the Honourable Frederic North, now the Eail of Guilford, CONTENTS. xi

Chapter IX

State of Christianity in Ceylon — Visitation of a Native School — Columbo Auxiliary Bible Society — Difficulty of converting the Hindoos — State of Christianity in India — Sunday — Christmas-Day Scvvartz — Bryce — Sikhs — East India Bill of 1813, for promoting the Improvement of the Natives — Speeches of Lord Castlereagh, and Mr. Wilberforce, 211

Chapter X

Occurrences at Columbo, from 21st December 1800, to 2d May 1804 — Union of Great Britain and Ireland — Two Elephant Hunts — Peace of 1801 — General Thanksgiving — Prayer, and Sermon — Arrival of two Chaplains at Columbo — Departure of the Author — Communication to him, from the Civil and Military Servants of Government, 247

Chapter XI

Voyage from Columbo to Madras — Different Climates of those Places — Anecdote of General Wemyss — Persons whom the Author visited — Prayer for the E. I. Co., 275

Chapter XII

Voyage from Madras to St. Helena — Appearance of that Island — Death, and Funeral of Captain Perry — Climate — Refreshments — Departure from St. Helena — Island of Ascension — Sea Weed — Caskets Arrival at Dover, London, Peterhead, Aberdeen — Comparison between a warm and a temperate Climate, A VOYAGE TO INDIA.

Chapter I. Departure From Britain Voyage To Ma- Deira Description Of That

ISLAND — • ITS APPEARANCE, SITUATION, ROADS HOS- PITALITY OF THE ENGLISH MERCHANTS LORD MORNINGTON, NOW THE MARQUIS OF WELLESLEY MANNER OF SHIPPING WINE CEREMONY AT CROSSING THE EQUATOR Magellan's clouds — arrival at the CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. JH. AVING been appointed to a charge in the Military Male Orphan Asylum, at Madras, I left Banff, my native town, on the 9th of August, 1797. On the first day's journey, I was accompanied by my brother, Macduff Cordiner, now a surgeon in the E. I. Com pany's service. We called at Memsie, dined u JOURNEY at Craigellie, supped and slept in Peterhead : there 1 had the pleasure of seeing (for the last time) the great and the good Doctor Beattie. Leaving Peterhead alone on the 12th, I breakfasted at Newburgh, arrived in Aberdeen at noon, and spent the day with the late much-lamented Rev. Alex.

Alcock. On the 13th, I attended St. Paul's Chapel there, morning and evening: on the 14th, I set out from the New Inn, Aberdeen, in the Fly, at half-past three o'clock, a. m. accompanied by Mrs. Henderson of Liverpool, sis ter to Mrs. Jack of King's College, and Mr. Robert Moir, clerk in the Aberdeen Bank. We breakfasted at Laurencekirk, dined at Glammis, and slept at Perth. On the 15th, we breakfasted at Kinross, crossed the Queen's-ferry, and dined in the Black Bull at Edinburgh. On the 17th, I had an inter view with the Rev. Dr. Andrew Bell, who had given me the appointment to Madras. On the 24th, my brother, Bobert Cordiner, merchant in Peterhead, who was then apprentice to Mr. Alex. Milne, Leith, arrived from a TO LONDON. journey in the service ofthe house, and I had the pleasure of enjoying his society during the remainder of my stay in Edinburgh.

On the 31st, I left that city, in company with Dr. Bell, in the Dumfries Fly ; breakfasted at Noble Inn ; dined at Beild Inn ; saw the sources of the rivers Tweed and Annan ; and the place was pointed out to us where the Clyde takes its rise. In the evening, we vi sited the mineral well of Moffat, and spent the night in that town. On the 1st Septem ber, we set out, at six o'clock, a. m. in a post chaise, breakfasted at Ecclefechan, and ar rived at Mount Annan, the seat of General Dirom, at 12 o'clock noon. I remained at this delightful place until the 28th day of the month, being actively employed in reading, writing, and drawing, all the time ; and very highly gratified with the society of a most amiable family. These were, to my worthy host and hostess, the days of pure connubial joys. Happy in each other, and blessed with three lovely infants, they knew no cares, and were, as yet, strangers to sorrow. jj JOURNEY The eldest child was a son, and is still alive; but the two daughters had no sooner become women, marked by every enchanting grace which can adorn the fairest works of creation, than it pleased Providence to call them from this world.

They departed, like angels who had been sent to pay a short visit to the earth, and left a melancholy blank in such a happy domestic society. It has, however, pleased God to bless the parents with a numerous family, in whom they enjoy much comfort. In the evening of the 28th September, I took leave of Mount Annan, left the town of Annan at half-past nine o'clock, p.m. and ar rived in Carlisle at two o'clock in the morn ing. On the 30th, I breakfasted at Dolston, and attended an examination at Bose Castle, when I wrote a theme in Latin, read thirteen verses of the Greek New Testament, ad aper iuram libri, and translated a passage of Gro tius de Veritate. On the 1st of October, I was ordained a Deacon, by the Bishop of Carlisle, dined with his Lordship, and re- TO LONDON. turned to Carlisle in the evening.

On the 2d, I set out for London, at five o'clock, a m. in the heavy coach, and arrived at the Sara cen's Head, Snow Hill, on the 4th, before dinner. On the 6th, I took a lodging at No. 38, Portland Street. On the 14th, I attended Drury-lane theatre, when, after the play of the Heiress, there were fire-works, and other exhibitions, to celebrate Admiral Duncan's defeat of the Dutch fleet. On the 20th, at nine o'clock, a.m. I left London, in a post chaise, accompanied by Capt. EobertBartlet: that day, we dined and slept at the White Hart, Petersfield ; left it next morning, after breakfast, and arrived in Portsmouth at eleven o'clock, a. m. when I took up my quar ters at the Fountain Inn. On the 24th, Capt. Bartlet returned to London. On the 25th, I walked along the shore, and saw the firing from the ships in honour of the day on which his Majesty began his happy reign.

On the Gth of November, I sailed from Portsmouth, on board of the Anna of Bombay, Capt. John Horn, commander. The b VOYAGE fleet, of which she formed a part, consisted of three other country ships, the Surat Castle, Carron, and Anna, of Bengal ; the Belvidere, regular Indiaman; the Barwel, bound for Bo tany Bay ; and a small schooner, called the Harbinger ; all under convoy of the Niger frigate. The four country ships had come from China, With tea ; they were afterwards sent with troops to the West Indies, and now carried cargoes for Bombay, with orders to touch at Madeira, to take in wine. Our first officer is Mr. James Johnston, an Irishman ; the second Mr. Joseph George ; and the third Mr. Stone, half brother to Capt. Horn, both Englishmen ; the fourth Mr. Forben Lange, a Dane. Our gunner's name is Farquharson, a native of MacdufF.

The passengers on board are Mr. Craib, of Madeira, a native ofthe parish of Grange, in Banffshire ; Mr. John Kiddoch, lately first mate of the Surat Castle ; and Mr. Lawrence, an officer of the same description, acting as purser. Our ship's company consisted of fifty lascars, all Mahometans, twenty British TO MADEIRA. seamen, and a small number of Chinese, Por tuguese, and Italians, who were chiefly em ployed as servants. The vessel was about nine hundred tons burden : I had an excellent cabin to myself, and only paid one hun dred guineas for my passage. The voyage to Madeira was extremely pleasant, the weather being in general fine, and the breezes favourable, with only a very few interruptions of calms and contrary winds. We arrived in Funchal roads on the 21st of November, after a passage of nearly sixteen days.

The Virginie frigate, which left England on the 8th of the same month, having Lord Mornington, now the Marquis of Wellesley, and Admiral Sir Hugh Chris tien on board, anchored at Madeira at the same time with us. On the day that we reached this island, we passed Porto Santo, lying on our right, at the distance of about ten leagues, and looking like a broken ridge of mountains. The three desertas appeared on our left : these are uninhabited rocky islands, of a small size. Close to one of b MADEIRA. them stands a large natural column, rising out of the sea, and having the appearance of a ship under a press of sail. The first view which we had of Madeira was a ridge of craggy and apparently barren rocks ; but, after rounding a promontory called the Brazen Head, the whole island appeared like one large mountain, rising by a gradual ascent from the sea, and nothing can exceed the richness and beauty of the scenery which it exhibits.

The town of Funchal lines the base, and the face of the hill is ornamented with vineyards, churches, convents, and gen tlemen's villas. Here there is no harbour, but only an open bay, where ships must anchor in deep water; and when the wind blows towards the shore, the road is extremely dangerous. The beach is composed of large stones, on which a violent surf beats incessantly. Passengers are landed in Portuguese boats, in order to save those belonging to the ships. As soon as a boat touches the ground, a pair of oxen are yoked to it, and drag it through the sea MADEIRA. to the dry shore : the beach is steep, and if the operation by the oxen be not performed speedily, the boat is terribly tossed by the billows, and the persons on board often get their clothes drenched. There is, however, a very comfortable landing place, near to the Loo rock, where a ship's boat can lie along a natural quay, and a flight of steps leads up to a formed path, about a mile from the town.

The Loo rock is a small island, steep all round, close to the shore, and has a for tress erected on it, for the protection of the bay. Madeira is situate in nearly 33° of North latitude, and 16° of longitude West of Green wich. It measures about one hundred and forty miles in circumference. Funchal lies on the south side of the island, and is the only considerable town which it contains, as well as almost the only place where a boat can land. The number of inhabitants in Madeira is estimated at 64,000, 11,000 of whom reside in Funchal. The town has nothing in itself attractive ; the streets are MADEIRA. narrow and dirty, and pigs are the only sca vengers : but the houses of the merchants are lofty and spacious, and their charming villas in the country possess every comfort and embellishment which can render the abode of man delightful.

Their gardens are laid out with the finest taste, and adorned with the choicest productions ; and the sur rounding prospect of rich fields, and verdant and rocky hills, together with a vast expanse of ocean, enlivened by floating vessels, ren der the scenery in a high degree majestic and enchanting. The hospitality with which we were re ceived in this delicious island equals the warmest urbanity which imagination can conceive ; and the grateful sensations which I experienced, during a fortnight's residence among the English merchants there, have not been effaced, after living six years within the sultry tropicks, and many winters on the borders of the frozen zone. Upwards of thirty passengers landed from our fleet, and were all accommodated in private lodgings. MADEIRA. Large parties dined every day in the houses of the merchants.

Among the number of the guests were Lord Mornington, Admiral Christien, Sir John and Lady Anstruther. The first was then on his way to assume the office of Governor-General of India, Sir Hugh Christien was appointed to command the fleet at the Cape of Good Hope, and Sir John Anstruther was going out as Chief Jus tice to Calcutta. I presented a letter of introduction from the Earl of Fife to Lord Mornington, and he was pleased to say, that, in consequence of that recommendation, he would be happy to pay me any attention in his power, should I be at Madras when he was there. On the 26th of November, I per formed divine service, in presence of all the English inhabitants and passengers then on the island ; when the noble Earl condes cended to act as my clerk, and was assisted in the responses by the Admiral.

A room in the house of the Vice-consul is fitted up as a chapel, but there was then no English clergyman settled there. MADEIRA. The daily entertainments given by the merchants consisted of two courses and a dessert, the last of which was rendered particularly luxurious by a variety of delicious fruits, amongst which were bananas, oranges, green figs, and preserved limes. The season of the vintage was over, but some clusters of grapes, which had been kept for the table, were presented to us, remarkable for their largeness, and the richness of their flavour. The Madeira wines, which exhilarated the repast, were of the first quality, and superior to any that are usually exported, the mer chants very naturally retaining the choicest produce of the vintage for their own use : it is what drops from the grapes before they are put into the press.

Good old port appeared upon the table, but the host was sur prised when any stranger preferred it to the wine of the island. The ladies retired at the usual time after dinner, and when tea and coffee were prepared, a servant came and announced them to the gentlemen, who immediately joined their fair companions. MADEIRA. 29 In the course of our walks through the town, we looked into the Portuguese cathe dral, which is very richly decorated, and there we beheld several solitary worshippers kneel ing, in different parts of it, in silent devotion. We likewise visited one of the other churches, and the convent of Santa Clara, but none of the nuns whom we saw were either young or beautiful. In consequence of the appearance of a gale of wind coming on, in the evening of the 30th of November, the India fleet were or dered to put to sea, but the passengers re mained on shore.

Next day, the weather moderated, and on the morning of the 2d of December all the fleet returned to the roads, except the Anna of Bombay. The ships had not taken on board the whole of their wine, but it was thought imprudent that they should remain at the island any longer : they accordingly sailed that day, at noon. I was then the only passenger left behind; Mr. Biddoch, belonging to the same ship, thought it advisable not to trust to her re- SO A VOYAGE turn, and sailed on board the Anna of Ben gal. The Anna of Bombay, however, made her appearance in the offing at day-break on the 4th of December : she kept at a considerable distance from the shore, and did not anchor, but received on board the greater part of her Madeira. The common manner of shipping the pipes of wine is by rolling them into the sea, and then lifting them into boats.

A stone pillar, however, is erected on the beach, and an engine attached to it, by means of which a considerable number of the casks are hoisted into boats from the dry shore ; but as it is not sufficiently expeditious, the means above-mentioned are employed at the same time. This pillar was erected at the expense of a private individual, for the purpose of affording assistance in the case of shipwreck. The English merchants export annually about twelve thousand pipes of Madeira. On the 5th of December, when we were preparing to leave the roads, the ship was surrounded by a dead calm; and being entirely ungovernable, she was drawn, either by a current, or the attraction of the land, close to the rocks : to prevent her from going on shore, we were obliged to anchor just under the steep promontory called the Brazen Head.

A breeze, however, springing up about twelve o'clock at night, we had the good fortune to clear the land and pro ceeded on our voyage. At the time that the fleet was forced to sea, by the apprehensions of a dangerous gale of wind, the Anna ran for shelter to the northern side of the island, and was much baffled in her attempts to return. On the 6th of December, while at sea alone, she sprang her fore-top-mast and jib-boom ; tlie same day we fell in with a fleet of four ships, which kept company with us a few hours, and then left us. On the 7th, we found ourselves a solitary vessel in the midst of the ocean. On the 8th, I witnessed the rising of the sun, which is a most beautiful and majestic sight at sea ; - and at six o'clock in the A VOYrAGE morning we saw Palma, one of the Canary islands, lying in 28° 37' of North latitude, and 17° 30' of West longitude.

On the 9th, we were hailed by the Niger frigate, returning to England, and informed, that she left the East India fleet the preceding night, steering S.E. On the 14th, flocks of the flying fish were seen gliding alongside of the vessel. Their movements were beautiful, and they sometimes flew about an hundred yards at one spring, along the surface of the water; some of them fell upon the fore castle of the ship, and others sprang into the lower cabins, through the ports : they were evidently flying from their enemies, the dol phins, and other large fishes, which closely pursued them. The flying fish is about the size of a small herring ; the eyes are very large and beautiful, and the wings are of the form of those of a bat, of the same texture as fins, and more than half the length of the body.

On the 18th, the sailors caught two bonnettos, and one shark, in the latitude of 8° 2' N. and longitude of 21° 4' W. Three sharks had followed the ship for some hours, eating things which were thrown overboard ; but the remaining tvvo, after the loss of their companion, could not be tempted by any bait which was offered to them ; they would taste nothing, and soon took their departure. On the 23d, in the forenoon, two strange sail were seen at a distance, steering the same course with us, S. E. by E. and we stood towards them, supposing them to be a part of our fleet. In the evening, they stood towards us, and our captain, thinking their movements suspicious, deemed it prudent to change his course as soon as it was dark, and bore N. W. & by N. At day-break, on the 24th, we discerned other two ships, likewise steering the same course with us, which was now altered to S. by W. : our ship being astern, we made sail towards them, supposing them to be a part of the India fleet.

At three o'clock, p. m. we recognized the Surat Castle, and the Anna of Bengal, accompanied by the schooner Harbinger : the Anna came within hail about six o'clock in the evening, c and informed us that the Carron left the fleet on the same day with the Niger frigate ; being a fast sailer, her commander determined to make the best of his way, as a single ship, to Bombay, where he arrived a month before the rest of the fleet. The Surat Castle spoke us soon afterwards, and her commander delivered a message from Sir John and Lady Anstruther, requesting Capt. Florn and Mr. Cordiner to dine with them the following day, being the 25th of December. — The invitation was accepted, and the engagement fulfilled, to our mutual satisfaction, the weather being fine. That day, we discovered the Belvidere, and the Venus of London, whaler, and found ourselves in the centre of a fleet of five sail, besides the schooner bringing up the rear.

Mr. Rid doch, the officer, belonging to our ship, who had left Madeira on board of the Anna of Bengal, now returned to his former station on board the Anna of Bombay. On the 30th of December, all the other ships had got considerably before us, except the Surat ,T0 INDIA. Castle, which, being a dull sailer, was left behind ; and, although we saw that she would retard our progress, we determined not to desert her. That day we entered on the southern hemisphere, with a gentle breeze, in 21° 38' of W. longitude. On the 6th of January, 1798, we were as far to the west ward as 28°, and the wind then allowed us to steer S.S.E. In crossing the equinoctial line, no violence was offered to me ; but two of the English sailors dressed themselves in imitation of Neptune and his wife, and, as the weather was fine, a holiday was kept in the ship, and one or two sailor boys, who had never crossed the equator before, were obliged to submit to the operation of being shaved with tar and a coarse knife.

As a present is expected by the ship's company, frofn every passenger, on that occasion, I presented them with a few bottles of Ma deira, with which they were perfectly satis fied. At sea, money is looked upon as of little value, because it can add nothing to present comfort ; and a glass of brandy, or a c piece of tobacco, is there, on many occasions, preferred to a guinea. On the 5th of February, at nine o'clock in the evening, in 34° 40' of S. latitude, and 17° of E. longitude, we observed, in the starry firmament, near the south pole, three white and two black nebulous spots, which are commonly known by the name of Ma gellan's clouds, from the circumstance of that navigator having been the person who first discovered them. The black specks struck me as very singular phenomena, and ap peared like cavities cut out of the azure sky : but the nature of them is perhaps as evident as that of the others ; as the whitish appear ance proceeds from an immense collection of stars, so the black appearance may be occasioned by a deficiency of these radiant orbs.

Of the former kind of nebulae, or clusters of stars, great numbers have been discovered in various parts ofthe heavens. Dr. Herschel, by his improvements of the reflecting teles cope, has been able to enumerate no less than two thousand of them. What a sub- TO INDIA. lime idea does it give of the creation, to con sider, as he does, the milky way to be nothing more than one of these nebulæ, of which our sun, with all its planets, is only one of the component parts, and a speck so indefi nite, that, to a mortal spectator who could take in the whole universe at one glance, our solar system would hardly be per ceptible. Knowing now from our reckoning that we could not be far distant from the Cape of Good Hope, we watched the rising of the moon at ten o'clock at night, in order to discover whether or not the land was to be seen.

At half-past eleven, we saw a strange sail, bearing S.E. supposed to be standing out from the Cape, but she did not come near us. At three o'clock in the morning of the 6th of February, the land was seen, within an hour of the time that our com mander expected to make it : this agree able circumstance suggested pleasing re flections on the very great perfection to which the art of navigation has attained. C O TO INDIA. At nine o'clock, a.m. we were close in with the shore, and saw the tops of the ships' masts lying in Table bay, over a low spit of land, projecting into the sea. At noon, we dropped our anchor, in full view of the Cape town, and the majestic scenery behind it.

Chapter II. Observations At The Cape Of Good Hope Its First Appearance

TABLE MOUNTAIN —STORMY WINDS TABLE BAY* THE CAPE TOWN FORT — CLIMATE — CONSTANTIA RE- FRESHMENTS SITUATION ADVANTAGES DEPARTURE FROM IT SITUATION AT SEA LASCARS AT DINNER ARRIVAL AT BOMBAY. ON our arrival in Cape town, we found there Lord Mornington, Admiral Christien, and all the other passengers whom we for merly met at Madeira. Our chief reason for calling at this settlement was to receive a small supply of water, and we remained at it only a few days. Lord Macartney was at the Cape at that time, and just about taking his departure for England. The low point of land which appears pro jecting into the sea as we advance towards the Cape, is the extremity of the Lion's c rump, commonly called Green Point, and forms one side of Table bay. Over this point, we see a long chain of azure mountains, at a considerable distance inland, some of which are sharp-pointed, craggy, and pre cipitous, resembling in appearance the Gla ciers.