The American in Egypt, with rambles through Arabia Petræa and the Holy Land, during the years 1839 and 1840 ... Illustrated with numerous steel engravings: also with designs and etchings by Johnston

Preface

. In presenting to his countrymen these random and familiar sketches of the manners, customs, and cha racter of the East, the author is aware that the field of his observation has already been occupied by nu merous modern and ancient travellers, more capable perhaps than himself of doing justice to the subject. But as the plan of the present work differs, in almost every respect, from those already in print, it may not be unacceptable to the public. In every thing relating to the affairs and condition of the interesting countries which the author has traversed, he has endeavoured to arrive at just and true conclusions. Where he has commended, he has done so in all sincerity ; and where it was his duty to adopt an opposite course, he has not allowed himself to " set down aught in malice." The work, as it now appears, is a mere compila tion from the notes taken on the spots to which they refer, during the author's wanderings in the Old

PREFACE.

World ; and they are now submitted to the reader in the hope that, if they fail to instruct, they may at least serve to while away a few leisure hours pleasantly. An effort has been made to blend with the incidents of the author's wanderings an outline account of the existing peculiarities of the East, and to compare, in some slight degree, the manners, customs, oppressions, degradation, and barbarism of the modern orientals with the condition of their more enlightened and more fortunate ancestors, when Egypt was the seat of learning, luxury, and power ; when Judea was a " goodly land, flowing with milk and honey ;" and when " the desert blossomed like the rose." The wild Indian of the West clings to his native woods ; the wandering Arab roams lord of his cheerless sands ; and civilized man, ruined in fortune and character, often shelters himself from the merited blasts of contempt at home, among the barbarous people of the East.

Consequently, what is called in Turkey " Frank society" is unavoidably composed, to a great extent, of renegades from civilized countries. It is not surprising, therefore, that the voyageur upon the Nile and the Levant is occasionally thrown in juxtaposition with individuals, exhibiting a fair and courteous exterior, who, in all their proffered atten-

PREFACE.

. tion to, and intercourse with, strangers, are actuated by the most unworthy motives, and prompted by the most insidious and base designs. In portraying some specimens of individual cha racter as exhibited in Eastern society, and in drawing occasionally upon the peculiarities and eccentricities of European and other travellers that the author has met by the way, he has, for reasons most obvious to the reader, substituted fictitious for real names, while he has endeavoured to exhibit the characters them selves as " true to the life" as circumstaL ces would permit. In the brief descriptions of some of the wonderful remains of antiquity still visible in the valley of Egypt, in the mountains of Petra, and in the Holy Land, an effort has been made rather to impress the reader with a general idea of their grandeur and extent, than to embarrass him with technical peculiarity or architectural detail. New York, June, 1842. CONTENTS

Chapter I. Page

Voyage from Athens to Alexandria. — The Island of Syra. — His Reverence the Bishop.— Views of Naxos, Paros, Candia, and the Mountains of Judea 1

Chapter II

First glimpse of Alexandria. — View by Moonlight. — Our Arrival. —Turkish and Egyptian Fleets. — Imaginary Plagues of Egypt. — Process of landing, and the Manner of taking care of the Baggage. — The Inhabitants ; their Mode of Conveyance. — Plan of keeping off Intruders, as practised in the East. — Ladies in Masks, and Peasants in Rags. — Novel Mode of sweeping the Streets. — The use of Camels and Donkeys. — Water-carriers and City-criers. — First Impressions. 8

Chapter III

The principal Hotel in Alexandria. — Rain and Sunshine.— A Ride before Dinner. — Invitation to dine with Mr. and Mrs. Firkins. — Introduction to the Wrinklebottoms, Messrs. O'Statten, Sneezebiter, O'Screensbury, and other distinguished Personages. — Genealogy of the Humbug Family. — An Evening Circle. — A Snake Story. — An agreeable Surprise. 27

Chapter IV

Some of the Plagues of Egypt, and a touch of the Night-mare. — Captain Underdone, and his taste for Snakes, Lizards, Scorpions, and other Reptiles.— House-snakes.— Snake-charmers and Snake-eaters of the East. — Sacred Reptiles of Egypt. — Opinions of Diodorus, Plutarch, Wilkinson, and Champollion. — Asp-formed Crowns of the ancient Kings and Queens of Egypt. — Asp-headed B X CONTENTS. PAGE. Deities.— The Statues of Isis crowned with Asps.— Dancing- Snakes of India.— Probable Cause of Cleopatra's Choice to die by the venomous Sting of the Asp. 40

Chapter V

A new Acquaintance. — Introduction to Nebby Daood. — Caution against making acquaintance with the Humbug Family in Egypt.— Mrs. Firkins and the Out-runners of the East.— A Ride to the Baths of Cleopatra and the Catacombs.— An Egyptian Governor and his Footmen. — Almost a Disaster. — The Storehouses of the Pacha. — Arabs at Dinner. — Cause of the Egyptian Ophthalmia. — Manner of Eating in the East. — Deference observed toward the Master of the House. — Turkish Manner of Carving. — Mode of Cooking in Egypt. — Onions and Garlic. — Marks of Civility shown to Guests. — Beverage of the Egyptians. — Water of the Nile. — Contributions of the Pacha to the Grand Sultan of Turkey. — Water-carriers at the Tombs of the Saints. — Peasant-women and their Trinkets. — Wind-mills, and the way the Arabs carry Corn to Mill. — Women cleaning the Streets with their Hands. — Dog Population, and their Manners and Customs 58

Chapter VI

Dog-matical Chapter. — Dog Population of Turkey. — Condition of the Dogs not likely to be improved by the Interference of the " Great Powers." — Dog Funeral. — Dogs accounted among the Sacred Animals of Ancient Egypt. — " Every Dog has his day." — Heads and Bodies shaved at the Death of a Dog. — Civil War on account of the Sacred Dogs of Egypt. — Condition of Ancient and Modern Dogs contrasted. — Byron's Dog, and the Dog of Frederick the Great. — Declining Condition of the Dogs of Egypt since the Persian Conquest. — Sacred Ox Apis killed, and his Blood given to the Dogs. — Arabs' Houses built of the Mud gathered from the Streets. — Domestic Felicity. — An Arab whipping his Wife. — How to make an Impression in Egypt. — Advice of the American Consul. — Description of the Catacombs, and the Baths of Cleopatra. 77

Chapter VII

Incidental Story of Nebby Daood, an eccentric Backwoodsman of the United States, travelling in Egypt. — His Reserve, and his Impressions of Mankind. — The Object of Nebby's Wanderings. CONTENTS. XI PAGE — His Desire for Foreign Travel. — Scenes of his Youth. — Neb by's Passion for Books and Thirst for Knowledge. — " Town Li brary Association." — Difficulties encountered, and final Success. — Leaves his Father's House and goes to New York. — Journey, and Arrival in the City. — Nebby's Impressions. — Desolation of his Feelings. — Nebby among the Speculators of Wall-street. — Halts between two Opinions. — Slips through the Fingers of the Speculators, with the Loss of their Friendship. — Nebby's Igno rance of the World. — Meets with a Disaster and breaks his Leg. — His Recovery, and Departure for England 91

Chapter VIII

Story of Nebby Daood continued. — Nebby in England. — His Visits to Scotland, Ireland, Wales, and London. — His first Impressions of the British Metropolis, and his Manner of getting into the House of Parliament. — His Visit to Westminster Abbey. — His Reception at the Mansion of a Distinguished American in London. — His Opinion of the two Houses of Parliament. — His Visit to France, and Wanderings to Switzerland. — His Journey across the Alps into Italy. — His Visit to Genoa, Venice, Florence, Rome, Naples, and the long-buried Cities of the Plains. — His Reflections among the Ruins of Pæstum. — His Visit to Sicily ; and Voyage to Greece 107

Chapter IX

Nebby Daood among the Ruins of Athens. — He visits Esculapius' Grove ; Argos, Mycenæ, Tyrrins, Corinth, the Nemean Plains, Mount Parnassus, Delphi, the Castalian Spring, the Waters of Lethe, the Plains of Marathon, the Straits of Thermopylæ, Thebes, Platæa, Ancient Crete, Egypt, and Syria. — His Disappearance, and probable Death. 123

Chapter X

Contemplated Visit to Upper Egypt.— Selim, the Arabian Dragoman.— His Qualifications, and a Description of his Person.— An Interview with the Consular Agent of the United States.— Flattering Expectations. — Important Standing of the Consul. — Ride and Reflections among the Tombs.— The Wrinklebottoms at Pompey's Pillar.— Scene in the Graveyard at Alexandria.— Valorous Exploits of the Dragoman with Beggars.— Admiration and Chagrin of the Wrinklebottoms.— Lord Sweepstakes and Sir Jeffrey Windfall.— Dinner on the Summit of Pompey's Pillar.— CONTENTS. XII PAGE 148 185 Affront to the Pacha. — Imagined Insult to the British Flag. — Virtuous Indignation of the Wrinklebottoms. — The Pacha's Decree 132

Chapter XI

Pompey's Pillar.—" J. S. Buckingham, ex-Member of Parliament." —His Account of Pompey's Pillar and Cleopatra's Needles- Wilkinson's Opinion and Conjecture of their Origin. — Reign of Thothmes III., King of Egypt. — Disinclination of Monarchs to record their own Disasters.— Gold Bracelet of Thothmes III. — General Inclination of all Nations for Plunder and Spoil.

Chapter XII

" Plagues of Egypt." — An Evening with Mr. Firkins. — His Opinion of Mehemet Ali and the Diplomacy of the " Great Powers." — Jealousy of the Allies, and Mehemet Ali's Check upon their Diplomatic Intrigues. — Subtlety of the Pacha, and the Promises of France. — The Pacha's Government, and its Effects upon the People 164

Chapter XIII

Further Conversation with Mr. Firkins. — Inhabitants, Revenue, and Education of Egypt. — The Army and Military Conscriptions. — Influence and Power of Mehemet Ali. — Revolting Expedients of Mothers to exempt their Sons from Service in the Army. — Their cruel Practices rendered unavailing. — One-eyed Regiment. — Pernicious Effects of Climate upon the Eye. — Caution to Strangers. — Franks mistaken for Conjurers and Physicians. — Eminence and Skill of the Ancient Physicians of Egypt. — Fatal Experiments punished by Death. — Ancient Quacks. . . . 172

Chapter XIV

Unpleasant News. — Disappointment. — Reflections. — Unpropitious Visit. — Mutual Surprise. — " Sudden, Serious Illness" of a Consul not so Serious as was apprehended. — Embarrassing Interview. — Animated Conversation of Mr. Firkins and Mr. O'Statten abruptly terminated. — Brilliant Party of Pleasure. — Mr. Firkins in a Rage.— Ride to the Palace of Mehemet Ali.— Way to make an Impression. — Palace and Guards of the Pacha. — Officers of State. — Dress and Address of Mehemet Ali. CONTENTS. XIII PAGE, 251

Chapter XV

Return from the Palace. — Mr. Firkins a Lion among the Rabble. — Scene in the Bazar of Alexandria. — Turkish and Egyptian Merchants. — Mode of Dealing. — Shopping in Turkey a troublesome Business. — Tricks upon Strangers. — Funeral Procession. . 204

Chapter XVI

Modern and Ancient Alexandria. — Comprehensive Views of its Founder. — Well-chosen Site for a Great Commercial City. — Canal, connecting the Nile with the Mediterranean. — Reservoirs of Alexandria. — Privileges enjoyed by the Greeks in Egypt under the Native Kings. — Cordial Reception of Alexander and his Army by the Egyptians. — Wise and conciliatory Administration ofthe early Ptolemies.— Extent and Splendour of Ancient Alexandria. — Its Capture by the Saracens. — Wise and humane Policy of Amrou, the Arab Conqueror. — His Account of the Conquest. — Policy of Mehemet Ali and the Black League. — Tomb of Alexander 219

Chapter XVII

Preparations to depart. — Exchange of Adieus. — Affecting Scene. — Weeping and Laughter. — Heavy News. — Change of Circumstances and Dress. — Quizzing-glasses and Financial Prospects. — " Hot Mixture," and Hunt for the Door-latch 231

CHAPTER XVIIL

An Early Start. — Inconveniences of Indecision. — Hint to Ladies travelling in the East. — Effects of Trade. — Cruel Suspension. — Passage on the Mahmoudieh Canal. — Danger, Difficulty, and Disaster. — Scenes on the Canal. — Camels of the Pacha. — Cruelty to Horses. — Egyptian Darkness. 241

Chapter XIX

An Agreeable Acquaintance. — Enlightened Policy of Mehemet Ali exemplified. — Taxation, Soil, and Cultivation in the Delta. — Unexpected Authority. — Wisdom, Justice, and Mercy go hand in hand. — Tax-gathering, Retribution, and Butchery.

Chapter XX

Despotism and Degradation. — Poverty preferable to Wealth. — Justice and Humanity rewarded. — " Reigning by Divine Right." — Advantages of Commercial Intercourse to Civilization. — Cheer- CONTENTS. XIV PAGE fulness and Labour.— Multiplicity of Wives offers no Impedi ment to Prosperity in Egypt.— Mahmoudieh Canal.— Dikes and Canals of Egypt 258

Chapter XXI

Introductory Letters from Mr. Firkins.— New Acquaintance.— Inconvenient Delay.— Necessity strengthens Confidence.— Flattering Prospects not likely to be realized.— Disappointments not always conducive to Humility.— Nile-boat and Fellow-passenger.— Unsatisfactory Investigation.— Unpleasant Dilemma.— Sailor's Importunity rejected.— Gloomy Prospect.— Arab Captain. — Departure. . 269

Chapter XXII

Commencement of the Voyage on the Nile.— Unpleasant Company.— High Wages and Sailors' Dress. — Nile-boats and their Rigging. — Fertility ofthe Delta. — Amrou's Description of Egypt. — Rude Manner of cultivating the Soil. — Scenery on the Nile. — Real " Plagues of Egypt." — Perplexing state of Affairs. — Council of War. — Commencement of Hostilities. — Pitched Battle with the Bugs. — Unsatisfactory Result 280

Chapter XXIII

Recommencement of Hostilities. — Selim supplanted in Command by the Cook.— Weapons and Mode of Attack. — Sanguinary Engagement with the Bugs. — Annihilation of our Assailants. — Renewed Demonstrations of War. — Another Battle.— Retreat from the Field.—" Military Glory."— Repose. . . . .297

Chapter XXIV

Climate, and Kamsin Winds of Egypt. — Effects of Habit. — Mode of sailing on the Nile. — Rambles on Shore. — Shyness of the Egyptians. — Volunteers. — Military Conscription. — Press-gang. — Appropriation of the Spoils. — Disadvantages of being mistaken. — Effects of Tyranny and Oppression. — Injustice of Tax-gatherers. — Arab Dwellings. — Story of an aged Egyptian. . 306

Chapter XXV

Continuation of the Voyage. — Bounties of Nature. — Pollutions of Man. — Consolation drawn from the Contemplation of Misery. — Administration of the Law.— Exciting Incident. — First Glimpse of the Pyramids. — Termination of the Voyage. . CONTENTS. XV 350

Chapter XXVI

Palace and Gardens of Mehemet Ali.— Sand-gale.— Arrival at Cairo.— First Impressions.— The Hotel and "mine Host."— Ride to the Citadel.— Mosque of Sultan Hassan.— Palace of the Citadel. — Joseph's Well. — Brilliant Circle. — Shaving Heads. — Sprig of Nobility. — A Member of Parliament. — " A two-Bottle Man." — Gloomy Prospect. — Dinner-table Chat. . . . 327

Chapter XXVII

Rimtapers, Wrinklebottoms, and Cats. — Moslem Bequest. — Sacred Animals of Egypt. — Feast of Mr. Firkins. — Disaster and Fright. — Theatrical Novelty, and Fashionable Squeeze. .

Chapter XXVIII

Interview with the Consul at Cairo. — Description of his Audience-hall. — Incidental Attack. — Egyptian Janizary. — Bridal Procession. — Marriage Contracts. — Match-making Brokers. — Bridal Dowries. — Law respecting Matrimony. — Wives and Concubines. — Law of Divorce. — Blessings of Fruitfulness, and Curse of Barrenness. — Ancient Marriage Customs. — Cheap Mode of raising Children 364

Chapter XXIX

Politeness and Accomplishments of Dr. O'Squeebey. — Dissection of a Mummy. — Present for the Ladies. — Untoward Accident. — Painful Situation of the Wrinklebottoms. — Sir Danbury Rimtaper sensibly touched. — Violators of the Tombs. — Their Condemnation. — Description of the Egyptian Mode of Embalming. — Veneration of the Ancients for the Dead. — Invocation for the Rites of Burial . .385

Chapter XXX

Jews in the Metropolis of Egypt. — Natural Hatred of Jews and Moslems. — Mode of executing Jews. — Slave-market of Cairo. — Tombs of the Memlooks. — Memlook Kings. — Their Origin, Power, and Destruction. — Circassian Slaves. — Parents sell their own Children. 402

Chapter XXXI

Visit from Monsieur le "Baron Pompolino." — Cemetery of Cairo. — Tomb of Mehemet Ali. — Ancient Sepulchres. — Excursion to CONTENTS. PAGE. the Petrified Forest. — Brilliant Cavalcade. — Disconcerted Understanding 416

Chapter XXXII

Expedition of Discovery among the Harems.— Mysteries and Miseries of a Turkish Bath.— Propensity of Egyptian Ladies for its Pleasures.— Baths of the Ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans ; and of the Scythians and Finlanders 425

Chapter XXXIII

Visit to the Harems. — Bathing and Dancing. — Importance of the Veil. — Ladies of the " Higher Circles." — Harems of the Patriarchs. — Seraglio of the Sultan, and his hundred Wives. — Harem of Mehemet Ali, and its Dissolution. — Banishment of Egyptian Prostitutes, and Effervescence of English Spleen. . . . 435

Chapter XXXIV

Religious Intolerance. — Apostacy of Women punished with Death. — Infidelity legally protected. — Penalty of Babbling and Backbiting. — State of Female Society. — Effects of Public Opinion. — Fashion and Finery of the Old Egyptians. — Exalted Privilege of the Ancient Women of Egypt. — Novel Mode of punishing Delinquents 455

Chapter XXXV

Visit to Heliopolis, the On of the Scriptures. — The Obelisk. — Temple of the Sun. — Schools, Scholars, and Priests of Heliopolis. — The Phœnix. — Tree under which reposed the Holy Family. — " Mad-House." — Sir Danbury Rimtaper and the Reverend Mr. Dunderblix 469

Chapter XXXVI

Excursion to the Pyramids. — Friends by the Wayside. — View from the Summit of the Pyramid of Cheops. — Ancient Tombs. — "Scientific Antiquarians."— The Sphinx.— Interminable Pay-roll. — Brilliant Cavalcade. 476

Chapter XXXVII

The Nile, and its Annual Inundation.— Sacrifice and Festivals in honour of the God of the Nile.— Nileometers and Criers of the Nile.— Dikes and Canals.— The Nile diverted from its original Channel, and Memphis founded upon its Bed.— Apis, the Sacred CONTENTS. PAOE. Bull of Memphis. — Splendour of the Ancient City of Memphis. — Its Ruin, and the " Scientific Antiquarians." . . . 497

Chapter Xxxviii

Separation of Friends. — Flare-up, and Boat-hunting. — Order of the Pacha, and " Baron Pompolino." — Embarkation, Pyramids of Dashour, and a Wild-goose Chase. — An Evening Circle. — Dancers of Ancient and Modern Egypt. — Dance of Miriam, David, Hippoclides, Herodias, and the Daughters of Shiloh. . 516

Chapter XXXIX

Sudden and pressing Demand. — Idiots and Lunatics regarded as Saints. — Female Devotion to the Holy Persons. — Description of the Crocodile and its Habits. — Worshipped as a Deity by the Ancients. — Ghenneh, its Manufactures, and His Excellency the Governor. — Rough Reception of the Rais. — Solicited to enter upon the Practice of Medicine. — A Mystery solved, and a rare Specimen of Smoking 528

Chapter XL

Thebes. — Temples of Luqsor and Karnak. — Esneh and the Temple of Latopolis. — An agreeable Meeting. — American, Scotch, and English Amalgamation. — Natives of Upper Egypt. — Quarries of Gebel Silsili. — Ruins of Kom Ombos. — Arrival at the Cataracts. — The American Consul. — Peter J. Scantletrash and his Servant Paul. — Elephantine. — Quarries of Syene. — E'Souan. 541

Chapter XLI

Excursion to the Island of Philæ.— Singular Taste of Mr. Scantletrash.— Temple of Isis.— Tomb of Osiris.— Philæ consecrated to their Worship.— Novel Mode of navigating the Nile.— Cataracts.— Apostacy of the Cook. — Serious Predicament, and overwhelming Effect of Egyptian Corn-Laws.— Departure from E'Souan.— Temple of Edfoo.— Tombs of El Kab. 558 CHAPTER XLiI. Palace-Temple of Remeses the Great.— His Conquests and Progeny._Staiue of Remeses the Great.— Vocal Memnon.— Shrine of Latona at Bmos— Ruined Temples of Medeenet Haboo. . 572

Chapter XLIII

Excursion to the " Tombs of the Kings."— Annoyance of the Relic-venders.— Indefatigable Arab and his Jar.— Tomb of Osirei, C CONTENTS. PAGE. violated and robbed by Belzoni. — Belzoni's Dinner to his Eng lish Friends in the Grave of Pharaoh. — Tomb of the Harper.— The oldest Tomb of the Kings. — Temple of Gournoo. — Moonlight View of Karnak 581

Chapter XLIV

Temple of Dendera. — A Cook in Danger of being cooked. — Capture of a Pelican. — Siout, and the " Beautiful, bright-eyed little Arab Girl." — Mr. Scantletrash and Paul. — His Excellency the Governor. — Ancient Tombs, Modern Cemetery, Fox-hunt, and Death of a Bat. — Ruins of Antinoe.— Tombs of Beni Hassan, and our last Interview with the Rimtapers 597 ERRATA. Page 42. Definition of cut, for " Asp-formed Crowns of Egypt," read " Head-diess of Isis." " 50. Note t for " Herodotus i. 406," read "Herodotus ii. 74." See also Wilkinson's Ancient Egyptians, 2d series, i. 246. LIST AND EXPLANATION OF THE STEEL PLATES AND VIGNETTES. I. Frontispiece — View of Egypt. 2. Water-carriers in Alexandria. 17 3. Egyptian Women with Masks 18 4. The Agreeable Surprise- , . . 39 5. Head-dress of Isis. i . . 49 6.

Works of Enchantment. 52 7. Coil of the Modern Boa. 57 8. An Eastern Gentleman with Out-runners. ...... 61 9. Arabs at Dinner 63 10. Washing Hands before and after Meals. 64 11. An Ancient Priest of Egypt making an Offering of Onions. . . .66 12. Water-carriers. 70 13. Water-carrier at the Tomb 71 14. Dog Population of Cairo. 77 15. A Female entering a Bath 90 16. Salt River Pilots 104 17. The Lords Spiritual and Temporal. ....... 112 18. View of Corinth 125 19. Mountains of Syria. 131 20. Public Mourners and Wailing- Women of Egypt 138 21. Hurried Reflections among the Tombs 140 22. Mrs. Wrinklebottom Trolloping the odious Pacha. . . . .147 23. Pompey s Pillar. 148 24. Cleopatra's Needle. 155 25. Gold Bracelet of Thothmes III 160 26. Scientific Researches > 163 27. English Mummy Pill-Factory. > . . 163 28.

Physicians of Egypt. 184 29. Portrait of Mehemet Ali 193 30. An Egyptian Merchant. 208 31. A Funeral Procession in Egypt. 215 32. Tricks of Trade 218 33. The Glass of Fashion 240 34- Administration of Justice with a Vengeance. 250 35. The Butcher with two Heads. 257 36. Canal (Alimentary) in Good Repair 268 37. Boats upon the Nile ' 280 38. Inundation of the Nile ■ 286 39. Egyptian driving Goats to tread the Seed into the Ground. . . . 287 40. Richard the Third 296 41. Repose after Battle. 305 42. Travellers overtaken by the Katnsin 309 43. Peasants of Egypt 321 44. The Obelisk of Heliopolis 326 45. A part of Cairo, with the Citadel. . . i 327 46. Modern Egyptians. LIST OF PLATES AND VIGNETTES. XX PAOE. 331 47. An Egyptian Woman masked. 48. Interior of a Mosque " 49. Moslems at their Devotions 50.

An Egyptian Barber. . . 346 51. First Course 52. One of John Bull's Free and Happy Subjects 349 357 53. Musicians of Egypt. 54. Distribution of the Spoils 358 qsin 55. Levantine Costume. 56. Levantine Ladies 363 57. Turkish Bazar. 369 58. Part of a Bridal Procession in Egypt 370 59. Dancing-women of the East 373 60. Peasant Women and Children of Egypt. 383 61. Interior of an Egyptian Tomb. 385 62. Painful Agitation of the Wrinklebottoms 391 63. Battle of the Memlooks. 402 64. Oriental Costume 435 65. An Egyptian Lady attired for the Promenade 439 66. Equestrians of the Higher Circles. . 441 67. John Bull in a Fume 454 68. Rings, Signets, Bracelets, and Ear-rings ofthe Ancient Egyptians. . 460 69. Returning Home 463 70. After Dinner 463 71 . Egyptian Women using the Distaff. 466 72. Nasal Embellishments 468 73.

View of Heliopolis. 469 74. Friendly Attention of the Arabs 479 75. Plan of the Pyramids of Ghizeh 490 76. The Youthful Philosopher 496 77. Raising Water from the Nile. 506 78. Apis and his Ornaments. 510 79. Colossal Fist— supposed to be Uncle Sam's. 515 80. Dancing-Girls of Egypt. 524 81. A tattooed Egyptian Girl 527 82. Crocodile of the Nile 531 83. An Oriental Potter 534 84. View of the Memnonium at Thebes 540 85. No-Ammon, Thebes— Great Temple at Karnak 540 86. A Woman of Upper Egypt 552 87. View of the Ruins and Vicinity of Philæ 558 88. Egypt— the ruined Temples at Philæ 560 89. Temple of Edfoo 569 90. A Woman embracing and weeping before her Husband's Mummy. . 571 91. Egypt— the Temple and broken Statue of Memnon at Thebes. . . 572 92. Ruins on the Plain of Thebes. 576 93. Pavilion of Remeses III. at Medeenet Haboo 578 94.

Offerings to the Dead in Presence of the Family of the Deceased. . 580 95. Different Forms of Mummy-cases. 596 96. External View of a Tomb cut in the Rock at Beni Hassan. . . . THE AMERICAN IN EGYPT.

Chapter I

Voyage from Athens to Alexandria. — The Island of Syra. — His reverence the Bishop. — Views ofNaxos, Paros, Candia, and the Mountains of Judea. In the last days of the year 1839, while England was enveloped in rain and fog, and a large portion of the United States shivered in snow, we were approaching the coast of Egypt, under a clear sky, warmed by a summer sun, and fanned by a soft and gentle breeze. In our passage down the Adriatic, we came near being cast away upon the rocks of Cephalonia. We had bad weather, and some of the severest gales that I have ever encountered at sea. Our boat was a miserable affair; the engine old and feeble ; and the captain — though sufficiently qualified to take charge of a piratical schooner, when the Vol. I. — HIS REVERENCE THE BISHOP danger of the enterprise may sometimes render it necessary, to avoid being captured, to dash the vessel upon the rocks and drown all hands — possessed few of the requisite qualifications for the safe and satisfactory management of a Mediterranean steamer.

He was a long, lank-sided creature, loosely built, with an Arabian face, and a careless, dare danger sort of expression about the eyes. He was a native of Italy, and received a part of his educa tion among the Greek pirates during the late rebellion in Greece against the Turks. Happily, at last, we fell into other hands, and stood upon one of the finest boats that ever floated in the Levant. It was a French war-steamer, with ample and sumptuous accommodations, and com manded by as brave a man as ever trod a plank, who possessed all that grace and suavity of manners pe culiar to his countrymen previous to the revolution. There were a number of passengers on board from Athens down to the island of Syra, including the American Consul, several Greek and Armenian merchants from Constantinople and Smyrna, Jews from Damascus, and the bishop of Syra.

The last-mentioned very reverend gentleman came on board in great pomp, escorted by half a score of priests. He talked much ; evidently thought little ; ate and drank like a lord, and afterward smoked himself to sleep. When we anchored in the bay of Syra the next morning, he came on deck with his capacious black cloak gracefully flowing about him, his cocked hat and breeches in perfect order, a NEGLECTING THE STEWARD 3 large gold cross on his breast, attached to a red silk cord that passed round his neck, terminating in a large clerical tassel, of the same colour, which hung down his back. Thus richly decorated, his reve rence, with a firm step, and an air of much self complacency, was about to quit the ship without taking that kind of leave of the honest steward which is usual in cases of value received.

The bishop was well enough provided with bene dictions; and, among the faithful, he was probably no niggard in his dealings in that kind of ware. But the French cook, who had brought the perfection of his skill in the culinary art to its highest tension, in his endeavours to please the taste and satisfy the voluptuous appetite of the bishop, no doubt thought, that however efficacious and precious his blessings might be in certain cases, yet, like the fine figure of Sterne's French servant Lafleur, " they did not cost his reve rence one sou," nor could he turn them to any ac count in the market, in exchange for the meats and other edibles which he had rather lavishly devoured during the voyage. In short, whatever may have been the reflections of the bishop upon the occasion, the cook came to the determination to make a formal demand of what he considered not only a just debt, but a debt of honour.

Thus resolved, cap in hand, he approached this high dignitary of the church, and presented his bill for liquidation. This produced a scene of consternation and no little ruf fling among the black robes, which resulted in the bishop's sitting down to a second breakfast ; after THE ISLAND OF SYRA. which he paid the cook like a man, and went on shore like a hero. The bishop disposed of, and landed without acci dent, we were also tempted to go on shore. Ascer taining that we were not to proceed on the voyage to Alexandria that day, we promised ourselves no little pleasure in rambling over the town of Syra; which, from the deck of ihe steamer, appeared ex ceedingly picturesque and beautiful. The town is built in an amphitheatrical form, upon a cluster of hills, rising by a gentle acclivity from the water's edge to a considerable height.

The houses are painted white, and appear neat and cheerful when viewed from the sea, though nothing can exceed the general filthiness that pervades most of them, which becomes disgustingly apparent when more closely inspected. The bishop's house, an elegant and ex tensive building, stands upon the summit of a conical hill, rising beautifully in the rear, near the centre of the curve of hills on which the city is built, over looking the town, and commanding a fine view of die sea and surrounding islands. Syra contains more than twenty thousand inhabit ants, and is the largest commercial town of Greece. It has sprung up since the Greek revolution ; and, like all other towns of Greece, has an air of freshness and activity, somewhat resembling the new towns in the western part of the United States.