Four Years in a Government Exploring Expedition; to the Island of Madeira-Cape Verd Islands-Brazil-Coast of Patagonia-Chili-Peru, etc

Front matter

MASSACRE OF LIEUT. UNDERWOOD AND MIDSHIPMAN 1IENKV FOUR YEARS IN a GOVERNMENT EXPLORING EXPEDITION; TO THE ISLAND OF MADEIRA — CAPE VERD ISLANDS BRAZIL COAST OF PATAGONIA CHILI — PERU — PAUMATO GROUP — SOCI- ETY ISLANDS — NAVIGATOR GROUP — AUSTRALIA — AN- TARCTIC CONTINENT NEW ZEALAND — FRIEND- LY ISLANDS — FEJEE GROUP — SANDWICH ISLANDS— NORTHWEST COAST OF AME- RICA OREGON — CALIFORNIA — EAST INDIES ST. HELENA, &c, &c. IN ONE VOLUME. B Y LIEUT. GEO. M. COLVOCORESSES, U. S. Navy, AN OFFICER OF THE EXPEDITION. NEW VORK: CORNISH, LAMPORT'*. CO., PUBLISHERS, No. 8 Park Place. 1852. Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1862, by CORNISH, LAMPORT & CO., In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, for the Southern District of New York. Stereotyped by Vincent Dill, Jr., No. 29 Beelcman Street. N. Y.

Preface

It may be proper to observe, as affording some guarantee for the correctness of the information contained in this Volume, that it has been compiled from a Journal, or a Diary, which the author kept in obedience to a " General Order" from the Navy Department, and that the Journal in question was frequently submitted to the Commander-in-Chief of the Expedition for his inspection and perusal. The work will be found to embrace incidents occurring on board the ship, Descriptions of Natural Scenery, Manners and Customs, Government, Religion, and Commerce. By adopting a more diffusive style, I might have exceeded my present limits ; instead of one such volume I might have produced two or three, but the general reader would have gained nothing by this, his main object being to gather in formation, and the more succinctly it is conveyed to him the more rapidly he will acquire it, and more easily retain it.

In short, I have endeavored to furnish a work which should have the merit of being instructive and entertaining, concise and cheap ; and I hope that the present volume will be found to possess all these advantages. G. M. C. CONTENTS

Chapter I

Departure from Norfolk — Weather— Orders to the " Relief" to proceed to Rio Janeiro — Orders for the remainder of the vessels to rendezvous at Funchal — St. Michael's Island— Vast Fields of Sea Weed — Impression they made on Columbus's men — Arrival at Madeira — Beautiful scenery — General Description of the Island — Manufactures — Personal appearance of the Peasantry — Their dress and habitations — Culture of the Grape — Description of Funchal — Monks unpopular with the present Government — Nunneries — The celebrated recluse, Maria Clementina — How the Nuns support themselves — Cheapness of labor— Public Amusements — Portuguese etiquette previous to dancing — Beauty of the Environs — Ride to the famous Cural — Catholic Burial Ground — Story of Robert Machim and Anna D'Arfet.

Chapter II

Departure for the Cape de Verde Islands — Phosphorescence of the Ocean — Arrival at St. Jago — Description of the Capital — Passage to Brazil — Arrival at Rio Janeiro — The U. States Frigate " Independence" — Observations on Rio Janeiro and its Commerce with the United States — Passage to Terra del Fuego — The enemies of the flying-fish — Arrival at Good Success and Relief Bays — Orange Harbor — Description of the country in its vicinity — General Observations on the Natives of Terra del Fuego — Departure for Valparaiso — A terrific storm off Noir Island — Loss of all our Anchors and Cables, and narrow escape from Shipwreck — Arrival at Valparaiso — Obliged to borrow an anchor from H. B. M. Ship "President." CONTENTS. 6

Chapter III

General Description of Chili— Climate— Earthquakes— Valparaiso and its Commerce— Observations on the Inhabitants— Amusements— Religion- Education— The Army and Navy— Newspapers— President Prieto's visit to Valparaiso— His reception by the citizens— Arrival of the "Peacock," "Vincennes," and " Porpoise"— Splendid ball given by the citizens of Valparaiso in honor of the Victory of Yungai.

Chapter IV

Arrival at Callao Harbor — Chilian Squadron, and famous Fortress — Observations on the City — Visits to Lima — Description of the peculiar dress of the Liminian ladies — The Theatre — Vice President Lafuente — The country in possession of the Chilians — Deplorable state of affairs — The " Relief" ordered to the United States — Fears are entertained for the safety of the Schooner " Sea Gull" — Lieutenant Craven goes in search of her.

Chapter V

Departure for Society Islands — Appearance of the Coral Islands — How they are formed — The Natives of Calermont de Tonerre refuse to let Captain Wilkes land — Obliged to fire blank cartridges at them — Their personal appearance — Alarm fires during the night — Arrival at the Island of Aurora — Remarks on its Inhabitants.

Chapter VI

Arrival at Tahiti — General Description of the Island — The Governor of Matavi comes on board to engage the washing of the officers — His personal appearance — A stroll in the direction ofPapeite — Kind treatment received from the Natives — The Women at Point Venus — Encomiums passed on them by voyagers — Send the Seamen to the Native Chapel to attend Divine Service — Description ofthe Chapel — Rev. Mr. Wilson, the only survivor of the first Missionaries — Female passion for Singing — The Squauron leaves for Papiete — Objections to its Harbor — Description of the Tahitian Flag — Received a Present from the Queen — A Commercial Treaty — A Native Dance on board the ship — The King-consort breakfasts with Captain Hudson — Character of the Queen — Influence of Mr. Pritchard. CONTENTS.

Chapter VII

Description of the Navigator Islands — An American citizen murdered by a Native — Apprehension of the Murderer — Sentenced by Captain Hudson to be hung — The Chiefs object to have the sentence carried into execution on shore — The Criminal is taken away and put on Wallis' Island — The Christian and Devil Parties— Manners and Customs- Departure of the Squadron for Australia — Arrival in Sydney during the night — Remarks of the Press.

Chapter VIII

Discovery and Settlement of Australia, derived from Chamhers's Papers.

Chapter IX

Commercial and Political Greatness of New South Wales— Character of the Population— Complaints against the Mother Country— Flourishing condition of Sydney— Principal Articles of Export— Interior of the country— Minerals— Several kinds of animated creatures totally unlike those found elsewhere— Observations on the Aboriginal Inhabitants.

Chapter X

Departure for the South Pole— Kind treatment experienced by us at Sydney—Arrangements for keeping the Ship comfortable— Appearance of Icebergs— A new Continent discovered by the Expedition— Eighty Ice Islands in sight at once— Fired at a Sea Elephant— Captured a King ' Penguin— His appearance— Aurora Australis— State of the Weather- Sickness among the crew— Filled the Water Tanks with Ice— Left Orders on a Berg for the " Peacock"— Return to Sydney— French Exploring Squadron.

Chapter XI

Arrival at New Zealand— Observations on the Island, and its Inhabitants —The Chiefs make a Cession of their Lands, Authority and Persons to Queen Victoria-Report of the English bribing the Chiefs-Pomare visits the Ship— His personal appearance, and private character- Arrival ofthe " Porpoise" from her Southern Cruise.

Chapter XII

Passage from New Zealand to Tonga Islands-Communicate with an American Whale Ship. Pass a Water Spout-Sail through a large field of Sperm Whale feed— Anchor at Nookualofa— Visited by the CONTENTS. Missionaries— Christian and Heathen Parties at War with each other —Arrival of a War Canoe filled with Christian Warriors— Eight Heathens or Devils killed in a skirmish— Visited by several Heathen Chiefs— Their Complaints against the Christians— Description of Noo kualofa Town— Manufacture of Tapa— Visits of the two Kings, Josiah and George, at the Observatory— An American Whale Ship wrecked- Preparations for going to Sea— Pilot refuses to take us out of the Harbor— Proceed to Sea— Productions and Climate of Tonga Island- Intercourse with the Fejee Group— Manners— Customs— Government- Religion — Education — Missionaries.

Chapter XIII

Arrival at the Fejee Islands— Description of Levuka Harbor— Visit from its Head Chief— Visited the Shore— Beautiful Scenery— Witness a Native Female Dance— The Girls beg from us some Paint— King Toanoa arrives from Ambou— His reception— The King and his Chiefs visit the Ship— His alarm at the sound of the guns — He spends on board all the following day — His return to Ambou— Receive a visit from his Queen and eldest Son— The cruel character of the latter— The Peacock captures the Chief Vendovi — An account of his attack on the " Charles Daggett" — Send officers and men to the Observatory to protect it, against a night attack from the Natives — Taboo taken off the Cocoanut trees — Sail for Saver Bay — Hot Springs in its vicinity — Superstition of the Natives — Sail for Sandal Wood Bay— Broils between two brothers Receive from the "Peacock" the prisoner Vendori — The Vincennes' lst Cutter captured by the Natives — Send an Expedition to punish them and recover the Boat — Mr. Baxter of the Brig " Leonidas" dies from an explosion — Sail for Matawata Bay — Description of the Town — The King's Wives — Our Surveying Signals are stolen by the Natives — The King is compelled to restore them — Two of our Officers are massacred by the Inhabitants of Malolo — Destruction of their Town, and other punishment inflicted on them — Tribute to the Dead by the Chaplain of the Expedition — Meeting of Officers for the purpose of subscribing towards the erection of a Monument in the Cemetery at Mount Auburn — Bid adieu to the Fejee Islands.

Chapter XIV

Extent of the Fejee Group — Soil and Productions — Description of the Inhabitants — How they wear their Hair — Power of the Chiefs over the common people — Women treated as Slaves — How they carry Messages CONTENTS. 9 — Copiousness of the Language — Circumcision — Polygamy — Cannibal propensities — Courtship — Wives strangled, and buried with their Husbands — The Sick killed by their relatives — Form of Government — Religion — Their account of the Origin of Races — Their knowledge of Medicine — Their Weapons — Their Manufactures — Foreign Trade — Value of Whales' Teeth, &e.

Chapter XV

Arrival at the Sandwich Islands — Description of Honolulu — Foreign Residents — American Enterprise — Personal appearance of the Natives — The Market — Two Natives hung for poisoning a Woman — Witness an Examination of 700 Native Children at Mr. Bingham's Church — Their progress and natural abilities — A visit to the famous Pali — Remarks thereon — Horse-racing a favorite amusement of the women — My Horse takes fright — Obliged to go on "board the Ship — Sail for Hawaii — Our Success in our Scientific Pursuits while at Oahoo — Immense height of the Mountains of Hawaii — Wrestling Match on the Forecastle between two Natives — Arrival at Hilo — A Present from the King's Agent — His personal appearance and behavior.

Chapter XVI

Surpassing beauty of the Country about Hilo — The Missionaries — Send the Scientific Instruments on shore — Excursion to the top of Mauna Loa — Refusal of Natives, employed to carry the Instruments and Provisions, to proceed — Scarcity of Wood and Water — Objects ofthe Expedition — I visit the Shore — Mr. Alden and fifty Seamen go to the assistance of the Mauna Loa party — Haul the Seine — The Head-man of Hilo and family, and the King's Agent and his Lady, dine in the Wardroom — How the Ladies dress, &c, &c.

Chapter XVII

My visit to the Great Volcano — The Mauno Loa Party accomplish its object, and the " Stars and Stripes" wave upwards of a week over the top of one of the highest mountains in the world — Character of the Mountain — Sufferings of our people from the excessive Cold, and Mountain Sickness — Shil for Maui — fass tlie Island Raloolawe — Arrival at Lahaina — Appearance ofthe Surrounding Country — The King ofthe Group visits the Ship— His personal appearance and education— My visit to the Town — Beautiful Landscape — The High School — Native Children amusing themselves in the Surf— Apparent danger of the CONTENTS. Amusement— Boats employed Surveying the Harbor— Dangerous situation of Mr. May and Crew — Rescued by Lieutenant Budd— The King's Schooner assists us in our Surveying Duties— Return to Oahoo to fill up with Provisions — Receive an Official Visit from the Governor of the Island— His connection with the Royal Family.

Chapter XVIII

Sail for the Northwest Coast of America— Description of the Villula, or " little man of war" — Arrive off the Columbia River — Owing to bad weather do not venture to enter — Steer for Puget Sound — Narrow escape from Shipwreck — Loss of a Russian vessel near the same spot — Savage Character of the Natives — Enter Puget Sound — Boarded by two Canoes — Description of the Indians living along the Shores — Arrival at Nisqually — Survey Hood's Canal — Celebration of the 4th of July on Shore — Serious Accident — Receive a visit from Doctor McLaughlin Chief Factor and Governor of the Hudson Bay Company — Lieutenant Johnson returns from an excursion in the interior.

Chapter XIX

Exploration and Survey of Chickelees River — Difficulties with the Indians at Grey's Harbor — Scarcity of Provisions — Obliged to subsist on dead fish picked up on the beach — Arrival of Lieut. De Haven with provisions — He communicates to us the loss of the " Peacock" — Arrival at Astoria — Kindness of Mr. Birnie — Character of the Indian Tribes about Astoria — Receive orders from Captain Wilkes to join him at Vancouver — Indian Burial Grounds — Arrival at Vancouver — Observations on the Columbia River — Received orders to join the Overland Expedition to California — Sketch of a life at Vancouver.

Chapter XX

Early History of Oregon, derived from the most reliable authorities — ■ Cook — Vancouver — McKenzie — Twiss — Greenhow.

Chapter XXI

Leave Vancouver to join the Overland Party to California encamped, on the Banks of the Willamette River — Rev. Mr. Cone, on his way to Vancouver — His account of our party — Five Americans building a Schooner — Their account of the Country — The Falls — Indian Superstition — Salmon Fishery — Observations on the Scenery and Navigation of the River CONTENTS. 11 I — Breakfast with the celebrated Mr. McKoy — His Wheat Crop — Cana dian Settlement — American Settlement — Observations on the Soil and Produce of the Willamette Valley — Methodist Mission — Divine Service at Mr. Leslie's residence — Break up the Camp — Drawbacks — Mr. Tur ner's place, and his present to the party — Loss of some of our Horses — A visit from a party of Calipuya Indians — Mr. Emmons leaves for Fort Umpquoa — Unfavorable report regarding the Indians— Mr. Emmons' return to the Camp — Put the Arms in the best fighting condition — Cross the North Fork of the Umpquoa River — Rumors that the Indians are preparing to dispute our passage — Indian Women gathering Roots — Indian Burial Ground — Cross the Umpquoa Mountains — Character of the Country — Klamet Indians — Pass Tootootutnas River — Sickness — Expected Attack from the Shaste Indians — Variety of Game — Indian mode of killing the Antelope— Passage over the Shaste Range — Klamet Valley — Ford the Klamet River — Character of the Indians of this Region — Reach the Head of the Sacramento — Archery of the Indians — Sacramento Valley— Klinka Tribe of Indians — Prairie Butes — Feather River — Captain Sutter's place — Proceed to San Francisco — Brief History of Captain Sutter — His kind treatment of our party — Extent and character of the Sacramento Valley — San Francisco — Bay at the time of our visit, and after the Discovery of Gold.

Chapter XXIV

Ordered to the Brig " Oregon" — Sail for the Sandwich Islands — A man killed on board the " Vincennes" — Leave Honolulu for the East Indies —Arrival at Singapore— Description of the City— Opium vending and its effects upon the population — Beautiful rides about the City— A Chinese Temple— A Mahommedan Mosque— Malay Character— The Parsees Their Language, Wealth and Religion — Observations on Commerce and Currency — Sail for the Island of St. Helena. CONTENTS.

Chapter XXV

Aspect of St. Helena — Discovery and Settlement of the Island — Fortifications — Climate — Population — Observations on Jamestown — Visit to Napoleon's Tomb, and Longwood — Interesting particulars relating to the Captivity of the fallen Emperor — His Death and Funeral — Arrival ofthe Frigate " Belle Poule" to take away his mortal remains — Exhumation of the Body — Its embarkation — Departure of the Frigate for France — Sail from St. Helena — Arrival at Rio Janeiro — Departure for, and arrival at New York.

Chapter I. From Norfolk To Madeira

At 3 o'clock P. M., Saturday, August 18th, the Vincennes made the signal to get under-weigh, and in obedience to the same we weighed anchor in company with the rest of the squadron, namely, " Vincennes," " Peacock," " Relief," and the two schooners "Sea Gull" and "Flying Fish." At 5 P. M., we came-to off Fort Monroe, on account of its falling calm, and of the tide making against us ; but at 9.20 the breeze sprung up, and we again hove-up the anchor and stood out to sea. At 4.15 P. M., on the 19th, we discharged the pilot, and took our departure. The day was beautiful, the sea smooth, the breeze favoring, and the vessels sailed finely. Indeed, we could not possibly have commenced our cruise under more auspicious circumstances. The day following we received orders, in case of separation, to rendezvous at Funchal, the principal port of Madeira.

On the 24th, the "Relief" was ordered to proceed to Rio Janeiro, in consequence of not being able to keep up with the rest of the squadron. At dawn on the 13th of September, we descried the Island of St. Michael, the first land we had seen since bidding adieu to our own shores. This island is of a volcanic origin ; its conical-shaped mountains, and detached basaltic rocks which PASSAGE TO MADEIRA. !i line its shores, prove this most conclusively. The northern side, along which we sailed for some time, looked singularly beautiful and romantic. It is one of the Azores,* or Western Islands, and belongs to the Crown of Portugal. The next object which engrossed our attention was the im mense fields of sea -weed, so often met with to the west of the group of islands just mentioned. Two great banks of this singular stringy-looking weed are said to occur in the Atlantic ocean.

One of them is to the west of the meridian of Fayal, one of the Azores ; but the location of the other has not been correctly ascertained. According to Burnet, it vegetates within forty degrees of latitude on each side of the equator. It was known to the Phœnicians as the Weedy-Sea, and the Spaniards and Portuguese call it Mar de Zaragossa. It is related of Columbus, that the sailors who attended him on his first voyage of discovery to America, on passing through these fields of sea-weed, urged him to proceed no further on the voyage, but to return home again, as they superstitiously believed that this hindrance was designed by God to put a stop to his wild schemes. This floating fucus is supposed to be detached by storms from the submarine rocks on which it is said to grow ; but that which we fished up presented all the appearance of belonging to a healthy growing plant, nor could I detect any roots which might have induced me to suppose that it had been once attached to the rocky bottom of the ocean.

On the morning of the 18th of September, we anchored off * The Azores, or Western Islands, a group of nine islands in the Atlantic, between 25° and 30° west longitude, and 37° and 40° north latitude, were discovered in 1439, by Vanderberg, a merchant of Bruges, and received their name from the number of hawks found among them. The climate is favorable to human health, and the soil is in general fertile, abounding in corn, grapes, oranges, lemons, and other fruits, and feeding many cattle, hogs, and sheep. MADERIA. 15 the city of Funchal, in twenty-five fathoms water. The " Vincennes" and " Sea Gull" came in about sunset, and the " Flying Fish" an hour or two later. The " Peacock" did not arrive until about 10 A. M. next day. Shortly after coming to anchor, we were boarded by the health-officer, who, being assured that we had no sickness on board, granted us permission to communicate with the shore.

We had heard much about the beauties of Maderia, and now that we had it before our eyes, we were not disappointed ; my own expectations were indeed more than realized. Val leys and hills, the former adorned with villas, groves, cottages, churches, and convents, the latter covered to their summits with verdure, presented themselves to our view in every direc tion. The climate is said to be among the finest in the world. Properly speaking, there is no winter, and the greatest heat in the summer is never so great as with us. The usual height of the mercury is 67°, and in the greatest extremes seldom sinks or rises 6° above the medium, and hence the excellent health so generally enjoyed by its inhabitants. Another remarkable fact about Maderia is, that it is free from the annoyances and inconveniences that so commonly infest warm climates.

There are no snakes or reptiles of any sort. Flowers grow wild along the sides of the roads and in the fields. Water is abundant, and of an excellent quality; even the streams at the bottom of the ravines, fed by the mountain dews, are never dry in the hottest season, and the height from which they descend enables the inhabitants to turn their course in any direction they please, which accounts for the cultivated parts of the island being so well irrigated. The chief production of Madeira is the grape,* and that • "The vine was introduced in 14-25. from the Island of Candia ; but it was not ac tively cultivated till the early part of the sixteenth century. It is propagated from MADERIA. which grows near the sea-shore is said to make the best wine. The quantity exported last year amounted to 8,450 pipes, of which about 4,000 pipes, valued at 793,000 dollars, went to the United States.

There is a great difference in the spots where the vine grows, and some estates produce much better quality of wine than others, though the kind of grape culti vated is the same. After the juice is expressed it is put into casks, undergoes the process of fermentation, is clarified with isinglass, or gypsum, and about three gallons of brandy to a pipe of wine is added. The common Madeira is obtained from a mixture of Verdelho, Bual, and Negro Molle grapes ; the Malmsey and Sercial, from grapes of the same name. The principal manufactures of Madeira are coarse linen, baskets, hats and bonnets, boots and shoes. The latter article is exported in considerable quantity to the East and West Indies ; they are generally well made, but they do not stand wet weather as well as the American shoes, in conse quence of the leather not being properly tanned.

The revenue of the island is stated to be about 210,000 dollars per annum. That portion which is derived from the customs is about one half, or about 110,000 dollars. The remainder is from taxes and tithes. The population is esti cuttings, planted at a depth of from three to six feet, and there is generally no pro duce for the first three years. During the second spring they are trained along a net-work of canes, (which is extensively grown, in low, moist situations, for that purpose,) and supported by stakes, about three or four feet from the ground. The in ferior descriptions of wine, after being clarified, are subjected, in stoves, to a temperature of 14U° to 160" p'ahr. for six months, by which process of forcing they as sume an apparent age, but, at the same time, a dry and smoky flavor, which can never be entirely eradicated.

This class of wines is shipped annually, in large quantities to Hamburgh, where it undergoes a process wliich changes ils character to that of Hock, under which name a large portion of it finds its way into the English and American markets. The wines of Maderia. with the exception of Tinta, should be kept in cellars of a moderate and equable temperature, and should be placed, for a short period at a moderate distance from tbe sire before decanted, and the decanter heated in Ike manner."' By One who kkmdkd Fifteen Yeari on thk Island. MADEIRA. 17 mated at 115,000. The lower classes are industrious, sober, and honest. They are supposed to be a mixture of Moors, Negroes, and Portuguese. Dark hair, eyes, and complexion are most common. The character of the features is usually a broad face, high cheek-bones, full lips, and good teeth.

The men are very muscular, about the middle height, very erect, strongly built, and capable of enduring great fatigue. The women are not good looking, which is no doubt owing, in part, to the hard labor required of them. The men wear loose trowsers, descending to the knee, made of coarse linen cloth manufactured on the island, a shirt, and a jacket of gaudy color. They sometimes wear boots or shoes made of white leather, but generally they go without either. The women are dressed in bodices, with short petticoats of a variety of colors. Both sexes wear a blue cloth cap of very small dimensions, tied under the chin. The houses of the peasantry are little better than huts ; they are constructed of stone, one story high, with a roof rising on all sides to a central pole — are thatched with straw, and beneath the same roof are included the parlor, kitchen, and sleeping-room, without any intervening partitions.

The only aperture for light or smoke is the door. Perhaps there is no need for chimneys, as fire is seldom required, and the cooking is usually done out in the open air. Funehal is the capital of the island. It is built along the margin of a small bay, the houses in some parts rising one above the other on steep hills, and contains above 20,000 inhabitants, of which 500 are foreign residents. It is inter sected by three rivers, which are kept in their course by strong thick walls, from ten to thirty feet in height. Most of these streams have pleasant walks along their raised banks, shaded with large overhanging plane-trees, whose branches almost MADEIRA. meet over the centre of the channel. The cathedral has been recently repaired, and makes a fine display ; its steeple is the most conspicuous of any in the town.

The other public buildings are hardly deserving of notice. The Governor's palace is situated near the water, and has a commanding view of the harbor, but its architecture is clumsy and tasteless. A few yards from the cathedral is the Praca Constituicas, a very pleasant promenade, shaded by three or four rows of trees, and provided with benches for the repose. of the weary. The military band usually plays here during the afternoon of Sundays, and " festas." The native inhabi tants then appear in all their finery, listening to the airs discoursed by the band. Beyond the Plaza is the market place, which is very clean, and regularly laid out in streets and stalls. Many of the convents are large and beautifully located, but in consequence of their being neglected by the present govern -ment, they have in a great measure become deserted, and their walls are crumbling down piecemeal.

The monks are out of favor with the Queen's government ; the zeal with which they supported the claims of Don Miguel to the throne of Portugal has not been forgotten, and consequently they are looked upon with a suspicious eye, both by the government and the people. During the short reign of the Constitutional Government in Madeira, the nuns were permitted to leave their convents, and a few availed themselves for a time of the privilege, but returned again to their cloisters, after a short enjoyment of the world's gayety. The celebrated Maria Clementina, to whose history Coleridge has imparted such interest, still lives in the convent of St. Clara, among some forty of her sister hood. She is now somewhat advanced in life, and few, if any, traces remain of that beauty which the poet so warmly MADEIRA. described.

These nuns support themselves chiefly by the manufacture and sale of artificial flowers and fruits, with a few other ornamental productions. The former are made of dyed feathers and the fruit of wax, and are prized by many visitors as affording a pleasing remembrance of their sojourn in the island. The dwellings are from one to two stories high, and the apartments are large and well lighted, • but owing to the material of which they are constructed — stone, and the iron grated windows of the ground-floor — they have a -gloomy, cheerless aspect. Nearly every house has a kind of turret on -the top, from which can be had a fine view of the harbor. The principal object of these is, for the inhabitants to look out for vessels ; the first thing to be done in the morning being to mount the turret to see if any strange vessel had arrived in the course of the night.