The Land of the Nile Springs. Being chiefly an account of how we fought Kabarega ... Illustrated by J. Burrell-Smith, etc

Front matter

■ m ■ ■ ■ THE LAND OF THE NILE SPRINGS MORRISON AND GrBB, PRINTERS, EDINBURGH c-vy£^T- ÆtA Printed by Lemercier Paris THE LAND OF THE NILE SPRINGS BEING CHIEFLY AN ACCOUNT OF HOW WE FOUGHT KABAREGA BY COLONEL SIR HENRY COLVILE, K.C.M.G., C.B. GRENADIER GUARDS Illustrated by Mr. J. Burrell -Smith and Mr. Twidle from Sketches by the Author and Major Thruston and from Photographs by the Author EDWARD ARNOLD (puSlisVet so it>t 3n6t'a dffice LONDON NEW YORK 37 Bedford Street 7° Fifth Avenue V

Preface

i WAS selected a few years ago to write the official history of a campaign, a most valuable work, I am told by the man who read it ; and during my stay in Uganda I had to contribute a good deal to Blue Book literature. I trust that the habits acquired during these experiences may be considered a sufficient excuse for any items of useful information that I may have allowed to slip into the following pages. H. E. COLVILE. London, May 29th, 1895. PAGE I IS CONTENTS

Chapter I The Road To The Lake

Appointed to Uganda — Companions — Zanzibar — Mombasa — Taru tanks — Tarn desert — Voi river — Ndi — Tsavo — An unquiet night — Kibwezi — Besant left behind — British and Hindu East Africa — Prospects of Ukambani — Machako's — Wakamba — Picturesque costumes — Kikuyu — Colonisation — Foodless tract — Open despatches — Decide to hurry — Masai ......

Chapter II The Road To The Lake

— continued Residential estates — Death of horses— Great prairie — The highway to Uganda — Rough on clothes — Waggon road — Kedong escarpment — Morandat river — A little Hades — Wadorobo hunters — Well kept meat — Lake Naivasha — Lakes Elmenteita and Nakuru — I leave the caravan — A serious obstacle — The Subugo forest — The Nile watershed — A Scotch mist — Two bad rivers — The Hingin hills — Kabras — The human form divine — Unknown tongues — Mumia's — The British flag nailed to the mast — A health station — A nasty brook — A Kavirondo hut — The Victoria Nyanza — Berkeley Bay

Chapter III Usoga

One with Uganda — Description of country — Thickly populated — Out in the cold — Mwanga's myrmidons — Chiefs CONTENTS VIII PAGE 3' 39 4S like it — The old game — Attitude of chiefs — Present caravan route — Usoga as a field for colonisation — Wakoli's— Parrots— A breach of convention— Deserted — A Usoga hut — Wasoga dress — Napoleon Gulf — Lubwa's— Lubwa the executioner — Fleet of canoes — The Wavuma— Former hostility— Present friendliness

Chapter IV Uganda

Arrival in Uganda— An overdose— Uganda scenery — Destruction of timber — Nemesis — "Woods and Forests Department " — Bog and swamps — Rivers — Climate — Dampness of littoral — Waganda greetings — A night out — A meagre menu — A friend in need — A polish up — Its results — Triumphal entry .

Chapter V Kampala

Kampala — Dr. Moffat — Hopes for a new broom — Sanitation — Architecture — Hæmaturic fever — Jiggers — Behaviour of Kikukuri — Treatment of Kikukuri — Call on Mwanga — His appearance and character — The palace — Types of chiefs — An impertinent snake — His fate — Waganda horsemen — Judicial functions — Order in court — Peculiarities of evidence — Questions of defence — A savage mode of torture — Decadence of Europeans — Driven out by the shauri ......

Chapter VI Preparations For War

Arrival of the caravan — Sudanese troops — Their " uniform " — Port Alice — Deceptive promise — Kabarega, his words and deeds — A nightmare — Unpleasant rumours — I decide on action — Tall talk — Position of affairs — Mwanga's religious views — Missionary work — Hitting two birds — Return to Kampala — Owen's victory — Sur- CONTENTS IX PAGE 66 82 104 prise of the Waganda — Declaration of war— Choice of a commander-in-chief— Mwanga's little pleasantness — And mine — Afternoon tea — Spire's royal guest — An informal reception — Mwanga's faith — "Excursions and alarms" — The steel boat— The observatory — Kakunguru — Con centration of troops — Preparations complete — Mwanga's promise — Movements of the enemy — Leave Gibb in charge

Chapter VII The Concentration On The Frontier

Marching-out state — An heroic band— An unappreciative population — Description of country — Waganda road-makers — Slow progress — Difficulties with the boat — An imposing procession — The importance of a drummer — A stormy interview — News from the front — Alternative routes — Decle decides to leave us — Makwenda's — German regulations — Arrears of pay — Loss of Spire — We leave Makwenda's — Change of scenery — Herd of elephants — Change of plans — A Merry Christmas — Waganda justice — Crossing the frontier — Our allies — Waganda wars — Kaduma's — The situation — Lack of commissariat — Concentration complete — A field day — Keen soldiers — A council of war ....

Chapter VIII Crossing The Kafu

First casualty — Advance of the army — Kakunguru — A fine sight — Obstructionists — Nakatoma — News of Kabarega — The Kafu river — Led astray — In sight of the enemy — Reconnaissances — An impracticable crossing — Begin bridging the river — The Baranwa ferry — The Toru army — A home-like fog — Colds— Holding the bridge head — An undesirable camping-ground — Across the Kafu

Chapter IX Occupation Of The Capital

Programme altered — A sharp look-out — Change of scenery — Wanyoro forethought — Ghostly defences — A misapplied CONTENTS X PAGE 114 121 139 offering— Enter into the capital— Forestalled— A pleasant site— We stop to loot— Mail for Europe— Intentions of the army — Prisoners — News of Kabarega — Plans- Settle to push on

Chapter X Chasing Kabarega

Lendui— In touch of the enemy— Plans for attack— Moved on— An ambuscade— An energetic chief— Wanyoro roads —Kabarega— A pedestrian — A little outing — Kibuguzi — In sight at last— Order of battle— Gone away — Stirring them up — A substitute for dinner — Change of plans — The plover trick — A camp fire — A reconnaissance to the front — We retire — Bujenji — Captive beauties — The Lady Kangao — A pioneer of civilisation — The captives freed — A diabolical plot — A buck-hunt and its results

Chapter XI The Investment Of The Forest

Mruli road impassable — A blow to the chiefs — Unpleasant alternatives — Decide to hem in Kabarega — Kabarega's return — Attempt to waylay him — An over-zealous chief — Owen's picnic — Return to the capital — Plan of investment — Sudanese troops at Wadelai — Sites for forts — Masaja Mkuro — A painful shauri — Vacillation — Smallpox — The Kangao's four hundred — Loss of ammunition — Expected opposition — A skirmish — Kitanwa .

Chapter XII The Occupation Of Kibiro

Hopes of peace — A prisoner wanted — The governor of Kibiro — Macdonald's reconnaissance — Capture of Kibiro — A barren district — Baboons — View of the Albert Lake — Incendiaries — Water, water all around — A desolate scene — Food difficulties — Value of Kibiro — Difficulties of supply — A man-hunt — A grain store — The descent to the Lake — A mummy — The boat afloat — Description of CONTENTS XI PAGE I56 173 191 20I Kibiro — A foraging expedition — Arthur's naval action — Preparations for the Magungu expedition — The dummy Maxim — Navigability of the Victoria Nile

Chapter XIII Life At Kibiro

Departure of expedition — Making ourselves snug — The salt mines — Mode of collection — Mwanga's perquisites — News from Owen — An unwelcome gift — A good march — Building the fort — The waterworks — Indefatigable fishermen — An alarm — The effects of echo — The harbour — Refugees — Jigger sores — Medicinal springs — A canoe race — A lubberly crew — Naval architecture — Pleasures of Kibiro — Some disadvantages — Swahili cooks — Fires on the hills — A pitched battle — Narrow escape of Kabarega — He leaves his kingdom — A big haul — Return of the boat — Cautious mariners ....

Chapter XIV The Magungu Expedition

Tyawai — Katulla Island — Mpata — Separation of the parties — Stopped by the sudd — False information — Back to Mpata — A prearranged signal — Treachery — A Sudanese hero — The last ration — Return to Kibiro — Owen's return — A pleasant surprise— A sudden attack — Steadiness of the troops — Slinging arms — Arrival at Magungu — Searching for the boat — In danger from friends — Attack on the fort — An unsatisfactory raft — Return to Kibiro

Chapter XV The Wadelai Expedition

New plans — Owen's orders — A fresh start — Down the Nile — A warm reception — An awkward position — Running the gauntlet — Unappreciated oratory — Meeting with friends — Wadelai — Reception by Sheikh Ali — Emin's fort — Destruction of ivory — Approach of the Dervishes — A hard pull — Mahaji — Unanswerable arguments — Return . CONTENTS PAGE 208 223 232

Chapter XVI The Chain Of Forts

Return to Kitanwa — A magnificent structure — A giant flagstaff — Return to Kitoba — Pros and cons — Hoima — Site for a fort — A deceptive lawn — Description of fort — Bark cloth trees — We open communications — The Waganda again — Spread of smallpox — Owen's return — The precious boat — Owen departs for Toro — Macdonald and the ladies — An attack and a stampede — Utema — Searching for a ferry — A rough march — Baranwa — A papyrus river — Macdonald to the rescue — I make myself a nuisance — Unpleasant neighbours — Thruston's command — A false alarm — A polite message — Retrospect .

Chapter XVII The Return To Uganda

Start homewards— Ntuti — Destitution — The party divides — Affairs at Fort Grant — A picturesque country — A pleasant halt — Triumph of militarism — A health station — A sharp descent — A wet day — A long wade — Makwenda's again — Wasted labour — Limited liability — An enthusiastic reception — Return to Kampala — Owen's mission — Reoccupation of Toru — Prospects of the Ruenzori region — Short-handed — Departure of Owen and Macdonald ......

Chapter XVIII Parade And Policy

Mwanga's behaviour — A mistaken idea — Collection of troops — " God Save the Queen " — Mwanga's mount — A brilliant inspection — Over ambitious — A sham fight — A divorce case — A great and happy king — Little drawbacks — Heirs to the throne — Succession changed — An unwelcome nephew — Mwanga's agitation — A matter of the affections ...... CONTENTS XIII PAGE 241 256 268

Chapter XIX Life At Port Alice

Return to Port Alice — Try to get comfortable — Site for the Residency — A surfeit of perfection — Three enemies to comfort— Choice of site— The view — Road-making — Primitive ideas — Distribution of work — Waste of timber — Brick-making — Waganda reed-work — Danger of fire — Death of Purkiss — A kabanda — Comparisons — French and English — Insect life — A flight of locusts — Defeated — Waganda carelessness — A matter of discipline — Witchcraft — A wise precaution . . . .

Chapter XX The Mruli Expedition

Affairs in Unyoro — Fear of Kabarega — Kabarega's return to Mruli — Determine to stir him up — Gibb to command — His health — His orders — Bulamwezi — The old Egyptian fort — Means of crossing the river — A complete surprise — The Waganda look after themselves — Kabarega returns — Effect on the Wanyoro — An unlucky start — Grant's expedition — A hard time — Waganda ideas of discipline — Two new posts — Hardships — Bad for rheumatism — Gibb's breakdown — The doctor takes his place — Departure of Gibb and Arthur .

Chapter XXI Affairs In Unyoro

Trespassers — "Berti Pasha" — Attacked by Dervishes — Exchange of flags — The force brought over — Followers — Attacks on convoys — Masaja Mkuro — A cascade of stones — A difficult ascent — A gallant charge — Wanyoro agility — Change of feeling — Wadelai again — The Semiliki river — Kabarega asserts himself — And gets defeated— The butcher's bill— Mahaji Saghir— Post to the westward — Hostility of Uma — A forced march — A wakeful cow — Surprise of Kabarega — Fireworks — An offer of peace — Thruston resigns his command . CONTENTS XIV PAGE 285 297

Chapter XXII The Ankoli Expedition

The new troops — Mixed types — A European for Toru — Wilson stuck fast — An emissary from Ntali — Disturbing news — Rumours from Buddu — Cunningham's departure — An alarm— The Futabangi — The Albert Edward Lake — An unwelcome guest — Ntali's town — Blood brotherhood — Sango — Transport arrangements — Spire sent to Kavirondo — Sail making — Boat building — Our carpenter

Chapter XXIII

A BRITISH PROTECTORATE Declaration of Protectorate — A precaution — An effect missed — Half-mast high — An important ceremony — The duties of a Commissioner — A thorough draught — An unholy rite — Rejoicings — My monkeys — Celluloid films — Use of windows — Immunity from fever — Want of lime — Undignified employment — Harbour works — Moving stones — Port Alice — A monotonous life — The day's work — A scientific frontier — My companions — Reinforcements — The house on fire — A catastrophe — Break down — My two selves — Carted home ..... LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Facing page The Author in his Study at Port Alice. From a photograph by the Author .... Frontispiece Taru. From a photograph by the Author . . .3 KOLUNGU CAMP. From a sketch by the Author . . 9 Wakamba. From a photograph by the Author . .11 LAKE Naivasha.

From a sketch by the Author . . 19 Near Wakoli's. From a sketch by Major Thruston . 35 View from the Fort, Port Alice. From a sketch by the Author . . . . . . -67 View from Makwenda's. From a sketch by Major Thruston ....... 88 The Kafu River. From a sketch by Major Thruston . 108 Bujenji. From a sketch by Major Thruston . -134 Mapala. From a sketch by the Author . . . 143 MAGUNGU. From a sketch by Major Thruston . . 198 Wadelai. From a sketch by Major Thruston . . 205 FORT HoiMA. From a sketch by Major Thruston . .211 MASAJA MKURO. From a sketch by Major Thruston . 270 Mahaji Kabir. From a sketch by Major Thruston . . 279 The Residency Garden, Port Alice. From a photograph by the Author ..... 308 Map to illustrate Colonel Colvile's Expedition to Unyoro ..... At end of book. Map of Part of Uganda and Unyoro . At end of book. THE LAND OF THE NILE SPRINGS

Chapter I The Road To The Lake

Appointed to Uganda — Companions — Zanzibar — Mombasa — Taru tanks — Taru desert — Voi river — Ndi — Tsavo — An unquiet night — Kibwezi — Besant left behind — British and Hindu East Africa — Prospects of Ukambani — Machako's — Wakamba — Picturesque costumes — Kikuyu — Colonisation — Foodless tract — Open despatches — Decide to hurry — Masai. /^\N the 4th of August 1893, I received a telegram from the War Office, asking whether I would accept an appointment under Sir Gerald Portal, in Uganda. I answered "Yes"; and started by the Indian mail leaving on the nth, accompanied by Captain Gibb (Worcester shire Regiment), Captain Besant (Norfolk Regi ment), and Captain Thruston (Oxfordshire Light Infantry). We were being sent out in conse quence of a telegram received from Sir Gerald Portal, asking for the services of four Arabic- THE ROAD TO THE LAKE speaking officers, of whom the senior should have sufficient rank and experience to take control of affairs.

On the 31st of August we reached Zanzibar, where we were each presented with a horse by the Sultan, and I also bought a couple. On the 4th of September we embarked with these, some donkeys, and our porters, for Mombasa, on the s.s. Juba, a vessel which, sailors tell me, has many good qualities, but which we were unfortunately not able to discover. After a day's halt at Mombasa, to pick up more porters, we moved on to Banderini, at the head of the Creek, and encamped there for two days, adj'usting our loads, and generally preparing for a start. The result of this adjustment was that we found we had neither enough boxes nor porters, so Mr. Muxworthy, our caravan leader, returned to Mombasa, to make up deficiencies, while we, with half the porters, strolled slowly on to Taru, where he caught us up.

This first forty-five miles of road ran through a level country, either parklike or covered with thick mimosa bush, and, in spite of its beinothe height of the dry season, we found it sufficiently watered ; but I must say that very little of the To face page 3) tart: THE TANKS OF TARU 3 remarkable mixture of earth, moisture, and rotten grasses, which we got out of the sluggish streams, proved to be sufficient. Taru is rather an important place, or may become so on account of its being the starting point for the march across the so-called "Taru desert," over which water has to be carried in the dry season, and over which the traveller steps out of civilisation. This water collects during the rains in some large rock basins, in sufficient quantity to last all through the dry weather, and with a very moderate amount of labour might be kept as clean as that in the tanks at Aden.

The pools are now, however, choked with mud, vegetation, and general liveliness and its consequences ; and as the African traveller does not like being tormented before his time, more than other people, it would be a charity to send a few men with spades and buckets to clean out the tanks, and let him have his stirrup-cup of some liquid not absolutely warranted to produce fever. On the 1 6th of September, Mr. Muxworthy and the tail of the caravan having caught us up, I sent on half my party to form a water depot at Butzuma, and with the remainder, and half of his, followed in the afternoon. We reached Maungu, thirty miles distant, on the farther side of the "desert," at three the next day. The march was across a level country, covered with thick thorn bush, which holds a certain amount of game.

I am told that all attempts to get water by boring have hitherto proved unsuccessful, but from the number of streams that run into it from the Teita hills, and the amount of vegetation which it supports, I can hardly think that the case is hopeless. If it is, there is nothing to be done but make a railway. Taru and the pools between it and the coast are only just sufficient to supply present wants, and certainly would not suffice for the many teams of oxen which will have to stream inland, if Kikuyu and Uganda are ever to be developed. From Maungu we moved on next day to Mkuyuni,1 where a nice little cascade falls out of the Ndara hills, and where we again waited for the tail of the caravan. On the 19th we made a fair start all together, 1 I only use this form of spelling under protest. This place is pronounced Emkuyuni, as Ndi is pronounced Endi, and Ntebe Entebbi.

As Swahili is not a written language, I see no reason why the most intelligible form of orthography should not be adopted A NIGHT AT TSA V0 5 about three hundred strong, and after crossing the numerous channels of the swampy Voi river, camped on its banks. This river has now been bridged, and the bridge has collapsed, but it is nevertheless a good deal easier to get over than when I first crossed it, and as a fair road, or rather ride, has now been cut as far»as Kibwezi, a week's work would make that place perfectly accessible to ox-waggons. On the 2ist, wishino** to make arrang-ements for a waterless march which I knew was ahead of us, I rode on with Spire to Tsavo, a station of the I.B.E.A. Company, on the banks of the river of that name, and in charge of a native known as Fundi (artisan) William.

This station has since been abandoned, a new one having been formed at Ndi in its stead. William entertained us most hospitably, but, in spite of his exertions on our behalf, we passed rather an uncomfortable night. The hut seemed to have been built chiefly with a view to providing the fullest ventilation, and as I had brought no wraps with me, I was too cold to sleep comfortably, and when I did drop off, was roused by Spire's noisy but ineffectual attempts to drive away the many rats who shared this abode with William. I tried to quiet him with the assurance that it was far better to feel a real rat than see a phantom one, but wholly failed to conciliate him with his strange bedfellows. At nine next morning the caravan marched in, and at three we started off again to Ngomeni, where William had sent on water for us.

The country passed through between the Voi and Tsavo rivers differed but little in appearance from that between Taru and Maungu, but, owing to proximity to the hills, is better watered, and the soil looked richer. After crossing the river, however, a considerable change begins to take place ; the ground becomes more undulating, streams more frequent, the thorn bushes are partly replaced by more succulent-looking trees, and as Kibwezi is approached, a zone of cultivation is reached, which has already begun to be tapped by Mombasa merchants, who have established small trading stations in the district. On the 26th we arrived at Kibwezi, 185 miles from the coast, a Scottish industrial mission station, under the charge of Dr. Charters, who was un fortunately lost, and, it is believed, killed by Masai, while out shooting, in 1894.

Besant, who had picked up fever on the Voi, had been so ill for the last few days, that I was NZ0I PEAK 7 very glad to get some medical assistance, and after considering Dr. Charters' strongly expressed opinion that he was unfit to travel any farther, I very reluctantly felt myself compelled to leave him behind. About a mile beyond Kibwezi, the road stops short, and we suddenly found ourselves on a tortuous track, in a belt of thick thorn bush, through which we squeezed our way, to the great detriment of our clothes and epidermes. Luckily the bush soon thins off, and an hour's march brought us into a slightly undulating district, sparsely clothed with thorns, euphorbia and baobab trees, teeming with game, and watered by the Kiboko, Makindo, and Ndange rivers. Half a day's march beyond the ford of the latter stream, and on its left bank, Nzoi is reached, a fine rocky peak, some eight thousand feet above the sea, and dominating a very well watered agricultural district, supporting a large population of Wakamba.

This peak may be said to be the boundary mark of true British East Africa. The Daruma, Samburu, and Wateita districts between this and the coast may turn out a Hindu or Chinese East Africa, but will never make homes for Englishmen, who, even if they like "roughing it" them selves, — I have never met one who did, — prefer, that for the sake of peace and quietness, their wives and families should be able to eat and drink by day, and sleep by night. Now both these things can be done beyond Nzoi, whence the country begins to rise steadily, from 3755 feet at the starting-point to anything you may like, or otherwise, on Mau or Elgon. Streams in all directions water the valleys, an industrious, but not over thick, population produce a sufficient supply of grain for present wants,1 but have not occupied a tenth part of the available land ; large herds of sheep, goats, and cattle browse on the hillsides ; the nights are cool, or even cold : and as far as I can see, the only objection to this district is that it is at present only to be reached by such an anachronistic means of locomotion as walking.

Not being good at descriptive writing, I think I can best give an idea of the country by saying that it reminded me chiefly of North Wales. On leaving Nzoi, a two days' march along a sheep-track, with occasional belts of very thick 1 Mr. Ainsworth calculates that at the present moment Ukambani produces 5000 tons of grain yearly. To face page 9] K0LUNGU CAiUP THE K0LUNGU VALLEY 9 thorn bush, brought us to the junction of the Keize and Kolungu rivers, whence our course lay up the deep-cut bed of the latter stream, to its head waters and the parting between them and the Machako's river. Occasionally wading waist deep, and always trudging through deep sand, our progress was slow, and the twenty miles' march entailed two days' fairly hard work. Flanked by high mountains, furrowed by the affluents, great and small, of the Kolungu, this valley, bad though it is, affords the best route to Machako's ; and although there is no impossibility in making a road through this district, it would be an expensive work, and one not likely to be undertaken, until the wants of colonists have rendered it a necessity.

How ever, there is no reason why the up-country road should follow this line ; a far easier route can be chosen to the west, neglecting for the present Nzoi and Machako's, and directly connecting Kibwezi with Kikuyu. Another day's march through a highly cultivated but annoyingly undulating country brought us to the I.B.E.A. Company's post under the hill, which is still named after its late chief, Machako. Here we enjoyed for two days the hospitality of Mr. THE ROAD TO THE LAKE 10 Ainsworth, and revelled in the products of an excellent kitchen garden. Mr. Ainsworth has succeeded in establishing most satisfactory relations with the Wakamba, of whom and whose country he, with me, entertains the highest opinion. Although they are not a race of warriors like the Masai, they have generally been able to hold their own against them, and, judging by the specimens employed at the fort, make smart and efficient soldiers ; the large tracts of land under cultivation and watered by artificial channels show them to be industrious agriculturists, and Mr. Ainsworth told me that he could at any moment get two thousand of them as carriers or labourers.

Like most Africans, however, they have an objection to go far from their own country, but under the leadership of an European in whom they had confidence, they could un doubtedly be gradually induced to do so. On the whole, I look upon them as the most promising tribe which I came across in East Africa. I have written this and my remarks on the suitability of the country for colonisation, urged on solely by a stern sense of patriotism. Were I to follow my own inclination, I would warn all Europeans off the country of the Wakamba, WAKAMBA (To face page li) THE AT HI PLAINS 11 and postpone for as long as possible the evil day when their picturesque costumes of black skin and bright brass wire will be exchanged for imported horrors from East End slop-shops, and their cheerful and virtuous paganism will undergo the inevitable metamorphosis which follows in the track of the three great civilisers.

After passing through a few miles of pretty, well-tree'd hill district, we descended on to the Athi plains, a broad open prairie teeming with game of all kinds, and as fine a piece of grazing land as could well be wished for, lying a little over five thousand feet above the sea, and enjoying an almost ideal climate. On the northern side these plains are bounded by the Kikuyu forest, through which a fifteen-feet road has been cut, and which leads through the highly cultivated Kikuyu district to Fort Smith, another of the Company's stations, and commanded by Mr. Hall. The Wakikuyu are quite as industrious as the Wakamba, and their soil is if anything more fertile, but for some unexplained reason they have hitherto been on far less friendly terms with Europeans than is the case with their Wakamba neighbours, and at present I fear colonisation could only be carried on in their district by force.

They have, however, lately begun to engage them selves as porters, and there is hope that before long a better understanding between them and the white men may arise. Between Kikuyu and Kavirondo is an un inhabited tract which takes about twenty-five days to traverse, and which I have often seen described as a desert. No word that I know of could con vey a more false impression of this district, which is well watered, and alternately covered with rich prairies or luxuriant belts of forest. Its only tenants at present are countless herds of game, and it is waiting with open arms to welcome the first man who cares to settle in an earthly paradise, but, like that other paradise which we all hope to reach, but are in no hurry to get to, it probably will not be one in which filthy lucre is likely to accumulate, at all events until it is a good deal more closely connected with the outer world than is the case now.

Owing to the absence of man, this district grows nothing edible by human beings, and consequently a stock of food has to be taken to meet the requirements of the porters, who, already pretty heavily laden, cannot carry more than ten days' rations extra, so donkeys SIR GERALD PORTAL'S RETURN 13 have to be procured to convey the food for the remaining fifteen days. As our arrival was unexpected, no preparation had been made for us, and we had to make a four days' halt w*hile our necessaries were being collected ; a rest which the porters thoroughly appreciated and made the most of, disposing of all their clothes and blankets to the Wakikuyu in exchange for a spirit distilled by those aborigines, and getting gloriously drunk. As I had left England with orders to serve under Sir Gerald Portal, I was somewhat surprised to hear from Mr. Hall that he had passed the station about ten days before our arrival, and was then on his way to the coast via the Tana river.