Three Years in California ... With illustrations

Front matter

A. 3. BARNES >fc COMPANY'S PUBLICATIONS. VALUABLE LIBRARY A\D TEXT BOOKS. GILLESPIE (Professor Wax M.I ON ROADS AND RAILROADS. 1 vol..8vo. u Ace ' railroad builder." MANSFIELD (Edward D.) ON AMERICAN EDUCATION. 1 vol. I •• A vv< rk us great practit lligent American." PACK'S (David I V AND PRACTICE OF TEACH 1 VOl. lOili'i. 1 I book ; and I tten it." Hon. 1 1 DAV] es, LL.D.) LOGIC AND UTILITY OF MATHE- MATICS. 1 vol Aval nl teacher's library. COLTON (Kev. Calvin) ON PUBLIC ECONOMY FOR THE UNITED STATES. I vol I it." COLTO : D INCIDEN1 , TO CALIFORNIA. I • V.,- lorals, an Walter) THREE FEARS -IN* C \ U l'< >i; \[ A. 1 vol. IJmo. With n All ini MAX Ed. D.) HISTORY 0 1 vol. iSmo. With n MANSFIEI . WINFIELD SCOTT. i \'ii. ■ (Mrs. Emi WILLARD'S(Mi PARK nH LATIN CLASSICS. lOKS. I ENGLISH GRAMM \l;. NORTH ELO : IONARY « riRE'S (James, M. D.) I RONOMY AND BAR1 rof. W. II. 1 ■ hi Military Aca ' . TEXT-

Book 0 Phy

' THREE YEARS IN CALIFORNIA P,V REV. WALTER COLTON, U. S. N. LATE ALCALDE OF MONTEREY ; AUTHOR OF "DECK AND PORT," etc, ETO. WITH ILLUSTRATION?. NEW YORK: PUBLISHED BY A. S. BARNES &. CO NO. .11 JOHN-STREET. CINCINNATI:— H. VV. DERBY le CO. 1850. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year Eighteen Hundred and fifty, By A. S. BARNES & COMPANY, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District of New York. Stereotyped by RICHARD C. VALENTINE. New York. F. C. GUTIERREZ, Printer, No. 51 John-street, corner of Dutch. TO GEN. MARIANO GUADALUPE VALLEJO, one of California's distinguished sons, en WHOM THE INTERESTS OF FREEDOM, HUMANITY, AND EDUCATION HAVE FOUND AN ABLE ADVOCATE AND MUNIFICENT BENEFACTOR, $1)10 Uolume . IS JsOST RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY HIS FRIEND THE AUTHOR.

Preface

. Many events of moment occurred in California during my residence of three years in that country, and which were sketched in a journal kept by me at the time. . They are interspersed with anecdotes and incidents of a less general concern, but which may not be without some interest with the reader, as affording a clue to the leading features of society, and traits of individual character. The circle of engaging objects in a community, just emerging into the refinements of civilization, is never broad ; but every phase in the great change going on possesses an in tense individuality, and leaves its ineffaceable impression, like a ship sweeping a solitary sea, or a bird scaling a sunset cloud. California will be no more what she has been : the events of a few years have carried her through the progressive changes of a century.

She has sprung at once from the shackles of colonial servitude to all the advantages and dignities of a sovereign state. Her emigrants are rushing from every continent and isle ; they crest every mountain, they cover every Ma ; tlic-y sweep in like a cloud from the Pacific, they roll down like a torrent from the slopes of the Sierra Nevada. They crowd to her bosom to gather gold ; their hammers and drills, their mattocks and spades divert the deep stream, and are echoed from a thousand caverned hills ; the level plain, the soaring cliff and wombed mountain, give up their glowing treasures. But the gifts of nature here are not confined to her sparkling sands and veined rocks, they extend to the productive forces of her soil ; they lie along her water-courses, through her verdant valleys, and wave in her golden grain ; they reel in her vintage, they blush in her fruits, while her soft zephyrs, as they flout the landscape, scatter per fume from their odorous wings. But with all these gifts disease is here with its pale victims, and sorrow with its willow-wove shrine. There is no land less 1*

PREFACE.

. relieved by the smiles and soothing cares of woman. If Eden with its ambrosial fruits and guiltless joys was still sad till the voice of woman mingled with its melodies, California, with all her treasured hills and streams, must be cheerless till she feels the presence of the same enchantress. It is woman alone that can make a home for the human heart, and evoke from the recesses of nature the bright and beautiful : where her footsteps light, the freshest flowers spring ; where her voice swells, the softest echoes wake : her smiles garland the domestic hearth ; her sympathy melts through the deepest folds of grief; her love clothes the earth with light. When night invests the heaven, when the soft pleiads in their storm-rocked cradle sleep, and the sentinel stars on their watch-towers wane dim, her vigil flame still pours its faithful beam, still struggles with the encroaching darkness till the day-spring and the shadows flee away.

Of all these sources of solace and hope multitudes in California are now bereft; but the ties of kindred, the quick-winged ship, and the steed of flame, on his iron-paved track, will soon secure them these priceless gifts. The miner, returning from his toil, will yet half forget the labors of the day in the greetings of his home : u At length his lonely cot appears in view, Beneath the shelter of an aged tree ; Th' expectant wee things, toddluV, stacher thro' To meet their dad, wi' flichterin noise an' glee. His wee bit ingle, blinkin1 bonnily, His clean hearth-stane, his thriflie wifie's smile, The lisping infant prattling on his knee, Does a1 his weary carking cares beguile, An' makes him quite forget his labor an' his toil." Philadelphia, July, 1850. W. C. CONTENTS. Page

Chapter I

— The flag.— Meeting of citizens.— Disposition of forces— CoL Fremont's band. — Alcalde of Monterey. — Indian mother. — Military leadere. — A California farm 13 CHAPTER H.— Fecundity of the Californians.— First intelligence of the war.— Wild Indians on board ship. — The chief. — First newspaper published in California. — Raising the materials. — The rival suitors. — Flight of Gen. Castro. — A Californian on horseback 27 CHAPTER HI. — A thief obeying orders. — Game. — No penitentiary system. — The California cart on a gala-day. — The runaway daughter.— Faith of the Indians. — Return from the war. — First trial by jury. — Indian and his squaw on the hunt. — Whales in the bay. — The two gamblers. — Ladies on horseback. — Merriment in death. — The Englishman and his mistress 39

CHAPTER IV.

— Funeral ceremonies.— Elected alcalde.— Flight of Gen. Castro. — Los Angeles taken. — Oven-bath.— Grog in a chimney. — The flea.— First rain. — Rising of the Californians. — Measures of Com. Stockton. — Mormons . 54

CHAPTER V.

— Fire on the mountains.— Emigrants. — Pistols and pillows. — Leaders of the insurrection.— California plough.— Defeut ul San Pedro.— Col. Fremont's band. — The Malek Adhel. — Monterey threatened. — Soldier outwitted.— Raising men.— Bridegroom.— Culprit* 72

CHAPTER VI.

— Santa Barbara taken.— Lieut. Talbot and his ten.— Gambling in prison. — Recruits. —A funny culprit. — Movements of Com. Stockton. — Beauty and the grave.— Battle on the Salinas.— The captain's daughter- Stolen pistols.— Indian behind a tree.— Nuptials in California 89

CHAPTER VII.

— San Jose garrisoned.— A California rain.— Escape of convicts. — Shooting Edwards. — Two washerwomen. — Death of Mr. Sargent. — Indian hens.— Hunting curlew.— The California horse.— An old emigrant.— The grizzly bear 106

CHAPTER VIII.

— Little Adelaida.— Col. Fremont's battalion.— Santiago in love. —Sentiments of an old Californian.— The prize Julia.— Fandango.— Winter climate —Patron Saint of California,— Habits of the natives.— Insurrection in the north.— Drama in a church.— Position of Cora. Stockton CONTENTS. Page

CHAPTER IX

— Day os the Santos Innocentes.— Letting off a lake.— Arrival of the Dale with home letters.— The dead year.— Newly-arrived emigrants — Egg-breaking festivities.— Concealment of Chaves— Plot to capture the alcalde 131

CHAPTER X.

— Destruction of dogs.— The wash-tub mail.— The surrender in the north.— Robbing the Californians.— Death-scene in a shanty.— The men who took up arms.— Arrival of the Independence.— Destitution of our troops. — Capture of los Angeles ,J*9

CHAPTER XI.

— Arrival of the Lexington.— The march to los Angeles, and battle of San Gabriel.— The capitulation.— Military characteristics of the Californians. — Barricades down 163

CHAPTER XII.

— Return ofT. O. Larkin.— The tall partner in the Californian. — Mexican officers. — The Cyane. — War mementoes. — Drama of Adam and Eve. — Carnival. — Birth-day of Washington. — A California captain. — Application for a divorce. — Arrival of the Columbus 173

CHAPTER XIII.

— The people of Monterey. — The guitar and runaway wife. — Mother ordered to flog her son. — Work of the prisoners. — Catching Bailors. — Court of Admiralty. — Gamblers caught and fined. — Listing land boundaries 189

CHAPTER XIV.

— A convict who would not work. — Lawyers at Monterey. — Who conquered California. — Ride to a rancho. — Leopaldo. — Party of Californians. — A dash into the forests. — Chasing a deer. — Killing a bear. — Ladies with firearms. — A mother and volunteer 199

CHAPTER XV.

— A California pic-nic. — Seventy and seventeen in the dance. — Children in the grove. — A California bear-hunt. — The bear and bull bated. — The Russian's cabbage head 210

CHAPTER XVI.

— A Californian jealous of his wife.— Hospitalily of the natives. — Honors to Guadalupe. — Application from a Lothario for a divorce. — Capture of Mazatlan. — Larceny of Canton shawls. — An emigrant's wife claiming to have taken the country. — A wild bullock in Main-street 220

CHAPTER XVII

— Rains in California.— Functions of the alcalde of Monterey. —Orphans in California.— Slip of the gallows rope.— Making a father whip his boy.— A convict as prison cook.— The knacka.— Thorn. Cole.— A man robbing himself.— A blacksmith outwitted 230

CHAPTER XVIII.

— First discovery of gold.— Prison guard.— Incredulity about the gold.— Santiago getting married.— Another lump of gold.— Effects of the gold fever.— The court of an alcalde.— Mosquitoes as constables.— Bob and his bag of gold.— Return of citizens from the mines.— A man with the gold cholic. — The mines on individual credit 2-12

CHAPTER XIX.

— Tour lo the gold-mines.— Loss of horses.— First night in the woods.— Arrival at San Juan.— Under way.— Camping out.— Bark of the CONTENTS. 9 Page wolves.— Watch-fires. — San Jose. — A fresh start. — Camping on the slope of a bill. — Wild features of the country. — Valley of the San Joaquin. — Band of wild horses 257

CHAPTER XX.

— The grave of a gold-hunter. — Mountain spurs. — A company of Sonoranians. — A night alarm. — First view of the mines. — Character of the deposits. — A woman and her pan. — Removal to other mines. — Wild Indians and their weapons. — Cost of provisions. — A plunge into a gold river. — Machines used by the gold-diggere 269

CHAPTER XXI.

— Lump of gold lost. — Indians at their game of arrows. — Camp of the gold-hunters. — A Sonoranian gold-digger. — Sabbath in the mines. — The giant Welchman.— Nature of gold deposits. — Average per man. — New discoveries 282 CHAPTER XXTI. — Visit to the Sonoranian camp. — Festivities and gambling. — The doctor and teamster. — An alcalde turned cook. — The miner's tattoo. — The little Dutchman.— New deposits discovered. — A woman keeping a monte table. — Up to the knee and nine-pence. — The volcanoes and gold. — Arrival of a barrel of rum 295 CHAPTER XXin.— Natural amphitheatre.— No scientific clue to the deposits of gold. — Soil of the mines. — Life among the gold-diggers. — Loss of our caballada, — The old man and rock. — Departure from the mines. — Travelling among gorges and pinnacles. — Instincts of the mule. — A mountain cabin ■ . . ■ 309 CHAPTER XXFV.— A lady in the mountains.— Town of Stockton.— Crossing the valley of the San Joaquin. — The robbed father and boy. — Ride to San Jose. — Rum in California. — Highwayman. — Woodland life. — Rachel at the well. — Farewell to my camping-tree 324

CHAPTER XXV.

— Cause of sickness in the mines.— The quicksilver mines.— Heat and cold in the mines. — Traits in the Spanish character. — Health of California ladies. — A word to mothers. — The pingrass and blackbird. — The Redwood-tree.— Battle of the eggs 339

CHAPTER XXVI.

— The public domain.— Scenery around Monterey.— Vineyards of los Angeles. — Beauty of San Diego. — The culprit hall.— The rush for gold.— Land titles.— The Indian doctress.— Tufted partridge.— Death of Com. Biddle 351 CHAPTER XXV1L— The gold region.— Its locality, nature, and extent.— Foreigners in the mines. — The Indians1 discovery of gold. — Agricultural capabilities of California.— Services of United States officers.— First decisive movement for the organization of a civil government.— Intelligence of the death of Gen. Kearny 365 CHAPTER XXVin.— Ride of Col. Fremont from los Angeles to Monterey and back. — Character of the country.— The rincon.— Skeletons of dead horses.— A stampede.— Gray bears.— The return.— The two horses rode by Col. Fremont—An experiment.— The result.— Characteristics of the California horse. CONTENTS. Page —Fossil remains.— The two classes of emigrants.— Life in California.— Heads against tails •*' '

CHAPTER XXIX.

— The tragedy at San Miguel.— Court and culprits.— Age and circumstances of those who should come to California.— Condition of the professions.— The wrongs of California.— Claims on the Christian community. — Journalists 391

CHAPTER XXX.

— The gold-bearing quartz.— Their locality.— Richness and extent. — The suitable machinery to be used in the mountains.— The court of admiralty at Monterey. — Its organization and jurisdiction. — The cases determined.— Sale of the prizes. — Convention and Constitution of California. — Difficulties and compromises. — Spirit of the instrument 403

CHAPTER XXXI.

— Glances at towns sprung and springing. — San Francisco. — Benicia. — Sacramento City. — Sutter. — Vernon.— Boston. — Stockton. — New York. — Alvezo. — Stanislaus.— Sonora. — Crescent City. — Trinidad 414

CHAPTER XXXII.

— Brief notices of persons, Whose portraits embellish this volume, and who are prominently connected with California affairs 425

CHAPTER XXXIII.

— The mission establishments in California.— Their origin, objects, localities, lands, revenues, overthrow. — California Railroad 439 LIST OF PORTRAITS. Captain John A. Suttee. Thomas O. Larkin, Esq. Hon. J. C. Fremont. Hon. Wm. M. G-win. Hon. G. W. Wright. Jacob R. Snydeb, Esq. A LIST OF THE DELEGATES IN CONVENTION ASSEMBLED AT MONTEREY, UPPER CALIFORNIA, SEPTEMBER AND OCTOBER, A. D. 1849. NAMES. WHERE BORN. RESIDENCE. AGE. Robert Semple. John A. Sutter. Thomas O. Larkin. M. G. Vallejo. Wm. M. Gwin. II. W. Halleck. Wm. M. Steuart. Joseph Hobson. Thos. L. Vermeule. 0. M. Wozencraft, B. F. Moore. Wm. E. Shannon. Winfield S. Sherwood. Elam Brown. Joseph Aram. J. D. Hoppe. Jno. McDougal. Elisha 0. Crosby. K. H. Dimmick. Julian Hanks. M. M. McCarver. Francis J. Lippitt. Rodman M. Price. Lewis Dent.

Henry Hill. Ch. f . Bolts. Myron Norton. J. M. Jones. P. Sainsevain. Jose M. Covarrobias. Antonio Mfl. Pico. Jacinto Rodriguez. Stephen C. Fo-t.-r. Henry A. Tefft. J. M. H. Hollingsworth. Abel Steams. Hugh Reid. Benj. S. Lippincott. Joel P. Walker. Jacob R. Snyder. L. W. Hastings. Pablo de la Goerra. Jos6 Ant". Carrillo. Man' Domingaez. P. Ord. Edw. Gilbert. Miguel de Pedrorena. A. "J. Ellis. Kentucky. Switzerland. Massachusetts. California. Tennessee. New York. Maryland. Do. New Jersey. Ohio. Florida. New York. Do. Do. Do. Maryland. Ohio. Tompkins Co., N. Y. New York. Connecticut. Kentucky. Rhode Island. New York. Missouri. Virginia. Do. Vermont. Kentucky. Bordeaux. France. California. Do. Maine. New York. Maryland. Massachusetts. Scotland. New York. Virginia. Pennsylvania. Mt. Vernon, Ohio.

California. Do. Do. Maryland. New York. Spain. New York. Benicia. New Helvetia. Monterey. Sonoma. San Francisco. Monterey. San Francisco. Do. Loetown. San Joaquin. Do. Sacramento. Do. Sun Jose. Do. Do. Sutter. Vernon. Pueblo San Jose. Do. Sacramento City. San Francisco. Do. Monterey. Do. Do. San Francisco. San Joaquin. San Jose. Sant'i Barbara. San Jose. Monterey. Los Angt-les. San J. in- Obispo. San Joaquin Los Angeles. San Gabriel. San Joaquin. Sonoma. Sacramento City. Sacramento. Santa Barbara. Angeles. Do. Monterey. San Francisco. San Diego. San Francisco. Forty-two. Forty-seven. Forty-seven. Forty-two. Fortyso ur. Thirty-two. Forty-nine. Thirty-nine Thirty-five. Thirty-four. Twenty-nine. Twenty-seven. Thirty-two. Fifty-two. • Thirty-nine. Thirty-five. Thirty-two. Thirty-four. Thirty-four.

Thirty-seven. '■■ Forty-two. Thirty-seven, |Thirty. Twt-nty-six. iThirty-three. 'FortyiTwenty-eeveu, iTwenty-sive. Trente ans. (Forty-one. Forty. iThirty-six. Twenty-eight. Twenty-six. Twenty-five. Fili\-one. Thirty-eight. Thirty-four. Fifty-two. Thirty-four. Thirty. Thirty. Fifty-three. Forty-six. Thirty-three. Twenty-seven Forty-one. Thirty-three. VALLEY OF THE AND SAN JOAQUIN.

CHAPTER I. THE FLAG.

MEETING OF CITIZENS. DISPOSITION OF FORCES. COL. FRE- MONTS BAND. ALCALDE OF MONTEREY. INDIAN MOTHER. MILITARY LEADERS. A CALIFORNIA FARM. A few words will place within the clear compre hension of the reader, the posture of public affairs in California at the time my journal opens. The U. S. flag was raised at Monterey and San Francisco on the 10th of July, 1846. This event was wholly unexpected by the Californians, and struck the pub lic heart with the deepest surprise ; other causes of alarm and apprehension faded into shadow in the presence of this decisive measure ; they were the ad monitory vibrations, but here was the earthquake it self. The people were more astounded than indig nant, and quite as intent over problems of preserva tion as measures of resistance. At a public meeting held at Monterey, in which the patriotism, talents, and sagacity of the country were largely represented, the question of throwing the territory under the protection of England, through the naval forces commanded by Admiral Seymour, who was on the coast at the time, was excitingly discussed.

But this proposition received its quietus un der the successful railery of Don Raphael, of Mon terey. " Our object," said this witty counsellor, " is to preserve our country ; but she is gone, — California is lost to us : and this proposal to invoke the protection of England, is only to seek another owner. The redress is worthy of the market-woman : a dog had robbed her hamper of a leg of mutton, and she sent another dog more powerful after him to get it away ; when asked what good that would do her, she replied, it would be some satisfaction to see the first dog de prived of the stolen leg. And so it is with us ; the mutton is gone, and a choice of the dog only remains : others may prefer the bull-dog, but I prefer the regular hound ; he has outstripped the other in the chase, and so let him have the game."

The convention broke up without adopting any decisive measures ; leaving each one to act as his impulses or convictions of duty suggested. The military forces of the country were at this time under the command of Gen. Jose Castro, an officer of high pretensions, but utterly deficient in strength and steadiness of purpose, and that capacity which can work out important results with slender and inapposite means. His followers had gathered to him with as little discipline, sobriety, and order, as would characterize a bear-hunt. Their prime im pulse lay in the excitement which the camp presented. It was the same thing to them whether their weapon was a rifle or a guitar, — whether they were going to a skirmish or a fandango. With six or eight hundred of these waltzing warriors Gen. Castro was now on his march into the southern department, with the evident purpose of taking up his position near the Pueblo de los Angeles.

Such was the posture of affairs when Com. Stock ton resolved to rest in no half-way measures. The wave had been set in motion and must roll on, or its returning force might sweep him and his tem porary garrisons into the Pacific. And yet aggres sive measures in the present condition of the squadron seemed to border on rashness. The Portsmouth, under Commander Montgomery, must be left at San Francisco to garrison the posts occupied by the flag ; the Savannah, commanded by Capt. Mervin, must remain here to hold Monterey ; the Warren, under Commander Hull, was at Mazatlan ; only the Con gress, Lieut. Livingston commanding, and the Cyane, under Commander Du Pont, remained. With the crews of these, and a hundred and sixty men under Col. Fremont, California was to be conquered and held, and this too in the presence or defeat of a military force that had the entire resources of the country at their command.

But a gallant purpose will often achieve what a questioning prudence would relinquish. The mountain torrent, with its impetu osity, sweeps away the barrier which effectually ob structs the level stream. Monday, July 27. The bustle of preparation is active in the squadron. Commander Du Pont received orders last evening to have the Cyane ready for sea in twenty-four hours. She has tripped this afternoon, and is off for San Diego, though it has been given out on shore that she is bound elsewhere, but this is a war stratagem. She has on board Col. Fremont and a hundred and fifty of his riflemen. The wind is fresh, and they are by this time cleverly sea-sick, and lying about the deck in a spirit of resignation that would satisfy the non-resistant principles of a Quaker. Two or three resolute old women might tumble the whole of them into the sea.

But they will rally before they reach their port, and see that their rifles spring true to their trust. The colonel is a man of small stature, of slender but wiry formation, and with a countenance indica tive of decision and firmness. This is the fifth time he has crossed the continent in connection with his scientific purposes. His enterprises are full of hard ship, peril, and the wildest romance. To sleep under the open heaven, and depend on one's rifle for food, is coming about as near the primitive state of the hunter as a civilized man can well get ; and yet this life, in his case, is adorned with the triumphs of science. The colonel and his band are to land at San Diego, secure horses, and advance upon the position of Gen. Castro, at los Angeles. " War's great events lie so in Fortune's scale, That oft a feather's weight may kick the beam."

Tuesday, July 28. Com. Stockton informed me to-day that I had been appointed Alcalde of Mon terey and its jurisdiction. I had dreamed in the course of my life, as most people have, of the thousand things I might become, but it never entered my visions that I should succeed to the dignity of a Spanish alcalde. I much preferred my berth on board the Congress, and that the judicial functions in question should continue to be discharged by the two intelligent gentlemen, Purser R. M. Price and Dr. Edward Gilchrist, upon whom they had been de volved. But the services of these officers were deemed indispensable to the efficiency of the ships to which they were attached. This left me no alterna tive ; my trunks were packed, my books boxed, and in an hour I was on shore, a guest in the house of our consul, T. O. Larkin, Esq., whose munificent hospitalities reach every officer of the squadron, and every functionary in the interest of the flag.

This is the more appreciated from the fact that there is not a public table or hotel in all California. High and low, rich and poor, are thrown together on the pri vate liberality of the citizens. Though a quasi war exists, all the amenities and courtesies of life are preserved ; your person, life, and liberty, are as sacred at the hearth of the Californian as they would be at your own fireside. He will never betray you ; the rights of hospitality, in his generous judgment, require him to peril his own life in defence of yours. He may fight you on the field, but in his family, you ., A may dance with his daughters, and he will himself wake the waltzing string. Wednesday, July 29. The sloop-of-war Levant, under Commander Page, sailed to-day, with Com. Sloat on board, for the United States. We gave the commodore a parting salute.

He has render ed the squadron under his command efficient, and preserved harmony among the officers. The expediency of his measures in California will be canvassed elsewhere. He acted on the light and intelligence within his reach. If war has been declared, the lau rel awaits him. The Levant takes home in her my friend, Lieut. T : he has resigned his commission in the navy, and takes orders in the church. He is a pretty good classical scholar, and has made himself familiar with the principles of biblical exegesis. All this has been accomplished during those few leisure hours which the duties of a watch-officer leave one at sea. It is seemingly reversing the order of things for the navy to supply the church with spiritual teachers. But few, however, have left the deck for the pulpit ; a much larger number have reached it from the dia grams and drills of West Point.

Among them are some of our most eloquent and impressive preachers. Of this class is the present Bishop of Ohio. We have all been busy in writing letters home, and shall make up a pretty large mail, filled with ten der recollections, and overflowing with the California news. How the intelligence of our proceedings here will strike our friends and the country at large, is mere matter of conjecture. We are acting, however, not only in view of the alleged collision between the American and Mexican forces on the Rio Grande, but in reference to the anarchy and confusion into which this country has been thrown by a revolution which did not originate with us. Thursday, July 30. To-day I entered on the du ties of my office as alcalde of Monterey : my jurisdic tion extends over an immense extent of territory, and over a most heterogeneous population.

Almost every nation has, in some emigrant, a representative here — a representative of its peculiar habits, virtues, and vices. Here is the reckless Californian, the half-wild Indian, the roving trapper of the West, the lawless Mexican, the licentious Spaniard, the scolding Eng lishman, the absconding Frenchman, the luckless Irishman, the plodding German, the adventurous Russian, and the discontented Mormon. All have come here with the expectation of finding but little work and less law. Through this discordant mass I am to maintain order, punish crime, and redress in juries. Friday, July 31. Nearly all the houses in Mon terey are of one story, with a corridor. The walls are built of adobes, or sun-baked brick, with tiled roofs. The centre is occupied by a large hall, to which the dining-room and sleeping apartments seem mere appurtenances.

Every thing is in subordina tion to the hall, and this is designed and used for dancing. It has a wood floor, and springs nightly to the step of those who are often greeted in the whirl of their amusements, by the risen sun. The dance and a dashing horse are the two objects which over power all others in interest with the Californians. The fiddle has been silent since our flag went up, from the fact that many of the gentlemen have left to join Gen. Castro. But if they return, though cov ered with disaster, the fiddle will be called upon to resume its fantastic functions. You might as well attempt to extinguish a love of air in a life-preserver as the dancing propensity in this people. Saturday, Aug. 1. The Congress has sailed to day, with all her marines and full complement of men, for San Pedro.

Com. Stockton intends to land there with a force of some three hundred, march to the Pueblo de los Angeles, capture that im portant place, and fall upon Gen. Castro, who, it is now understood, has posted himself, with some eight hundred soldiers, in a pass a few miles below. The general will find his southern retreat cut off by Col. Fremont's riflemen and the sailors of the Cyane, his western route obstructed by the Colorado, while the forces of the Congress will bear down upon him from the north. He has seemingly no escape, and must sight or capitulate. But his sagacity, his thorough knowledge of the country, and his fleet horses, may extricate him. We shall know in a few days ; the interest felt here in the result is most intense. Many mothers have sons and many wives husbands involved in the issue.

Sunday, Aug. 2. I officiated to-day on board the Savannah. It is much to the credit of the officers of this ship that though without a chaplain, they have had, during a three years' cruise, their religious ser vices regularly on the Sabbath. Four of their num ber, two lieutenants, the surgeon, and master, are professors of religion, and exert a deep influence through their consistent piety. Their Sabbath exercise has consisted in reading prayers, selections from the Scriptures, and a brief, pertinent sermon. They have had, also, their Sabbath-school. Such facts as these will win for the navy a larger share of public confidence than the capture of forty barbaric for tresses. The American people love valor, but they love religion also. They will confer their highest honors only on him who combines them both.