A Guide for Visitors to Kashmir ... With a route map of Kashmir

Preface

. The increased facilities which have been provided during the last few years for visiting the beautiful Valley of Kashmir, and more particularly the opening of the Jhelum Valley Cart Road, is inducing a much larger number of persons than in former years to spend their short leave in a visit to the lovely scenery to be found in the Valley. This short Guide Book is intended to aid visitors by a description of the principal routes, and by giving other information that may prove useful to them. The map which accompanies the Guide shows the principal routes which are practicable to the casual visitor. The information has been brought down to the year 1897. CONTENTS: o Page Introduction ... ... ... ._ i Chapter I —Hints to Travellers ... ... 8 Chapter II.— Routes ... ... ... ... 13 Do Jhelum Valley Road ... ... 14 Do.

Jammu Route ... .. 26 Do. The Abbottabad Route ... ... 28 Do. The Pir Panjal Route ... ... 30 Do. The Poonch Route ... ... 47 Chapter III— The Vale of Kashmir ... ... 50 Do. Administration, History, Climate, People, Language, Religion, Trade, Arts, Manufactures, and Botany 54 to 80 Do. Sport in Kashmir ... ... 80 Do. Geology, Mineralogy and Archæology 85 „ 92 Chapter IV. — Srinagar and its Surroundings ... 93 Do. Dal or City Lake ... ... 100 Chapter V. — The Eastern Portion of Kashmir (From Srinagar up the River Jhelum) ... 115 Chapter VI. — Western Portion of the Valley (From Srinagar down the River Jhelum) .„ 135 Chapter VII. — Routes in the Valley of Kashmir and to Sporting Grounds and to Places Beyond ... ... ... 154 Appendix I. — Coins. Weights, and Measures ... 162 Do. II.— List of Post and Telegraph Offices in Kashmir and Jammu ... ... 164 Do.

Ill —Game Laws for Ladakh, Skardu, and Baltistan .. ... ... r66 Do. IV— Tax on Boats ... ... ... CONTENTS— (concluded.) Page 168 Appendix V. — Rules for Traders Do. VI.— Rules for Observance by Visitors and Residents 1 69 Game Laws of Jammu and Kashmir State Rules for Rental of Huts at Gulmarg Rates of Rent for Gulmarg Huts 177 179 IS i Old Huts for Allotment ■83 Tariff of Boat Hire in Kashmir Tariff of Hire of Coolies, Ponies, etc. 1 84 ■87 IMPERIAL Carrying Company (Rates and Rules for Tongas, Bullock Carts, etc.) 190 Tolls on the Jhelum Valley Road 196 Civil Transport Corps 20O Rules for Rust Houses on the Gilgit Road

Introduction

. THERE is, perhaps, no land under the sun which has received such praise in prose or rhyme as the valley of Kashmir. And, indeed, it is very beautiful — " an emerald of verdure enclosed in a radiant amphi theatre of virgin snow." The valley, which is peopled by a primitive type of the Aryan race, is intersected by a beautiful meandering river, and is covered with luxuriant fruit trees and fragrant flowers, with majestic chinars and silvery poplars. Behind all stand the majestic snow-clad mountains. Truly has the Persian poet said — " Do not call it Kashmir, it is a rival Of the celestial fairy land. It is a Paradise on the face of the earth." Vigne thus speaks of the scenery of Kashmir "Softness mantling over the sublime — snugness, generally elsewhere incompatible with extent — are the prevailing characteristics ; and verdure and the forest appear to have deserted the countries on the northward in order to embellish the slopes from its snowy moun tains, give additional richness to its plains, and com bine with its delightful climate to render it not unworthy of the rhyming epithets applied to it in the East — Kashmir — Be nazir — without an equal.

Kashmir — Junat nazir — equal to Paradise." Located in the midst of rocks and mountains, Kashmir is a fertile alluvial valley, which yields produce beyond the dreams of the cultivator in the sun-scorched plains of India. " You have but to tickle the land with a hoe and it laughs with a harvest." Streams of pure water gush from the rocky sides of high mountains to enrich the soii and assuage the thirst of man and beast. The deep waters of the lake reflect the summits of snow-capped mountains. In spring, the valley is covered with a mass of flowers ; in autumn, the trees are painted with gorgeous tints ; and in winter, a mantle of virgin snow lies over the land. It was in this country that the ancient Aryans built temples and monuments, the Buddhists reared their majestic places of worship, and the great Moguls laid out their pleasure gardens, and fountains, and grottos for the almond-eyed beauties of the Imperial harem.

The ozone-laden mountain air and the temperate climate form a delightful contrast to the heat of India and the biting cold of Central Asia. Elphinstone says : — " It is placed by its elevation above the reach of the heat of Hindustan and sheltered by the surrounding mountains from the blasts of the higher regions ; it enjoys a delicious climate, and exhibits in the midst of snowy summits a scene of continual verdure, and almost of perpetual spring." To an invalid Kashmir is health-giving ; to an archæologist it affords ample material for research ; to an artist it presents Nature's loveliest and most sub lime sceneries ; to a geologist many abstruse and still undiscovered problems of strata and foliation ; to a botanist a large field of still unclassified flora ; to an ethnologist and philologist a puzzling inhabitant and language ; and last, but not least, to the sportsman one of the best hunting grounds for large game in the whole world.

The number of visitors to the beautiful vale of Kashmir will certainly increase year by year, now that the valley is connected with the Punjab by a good cart-road, cut along the mountain side. The road has already given a great impetus to the trade of Kashniir, and ought to gradually develop all the resources of the valley. It is supposed that the first European who penetrat ed into the valley of Kashmir was Xavier, a Jesuit, who visited it in the time of the great Akbar. In the year 1665, Bernier, a French physician, accompanied the Mogul Emperor Aurangzebe to the valley. The third European, another Jesuit, Father Desideri, passed a winter in Kashmir in 1714. George Forster travelled through Kashmir in 1783, when the valley was reft from the Crown of Delhi by the Afghans. Forty years after, when Kashmir was under the rule of Ranjit Singh, the Lion of the Punjab, it was visited by Moorcroft.

In these days, when a traveller can drive from Rawalpindi to Baramulla through the valley of the Jhelum river in two days, it is not easy to realize that Moorcroft could not travel over this road for fear of his life. Victor Jacquemont followed in 1831 by the permission of Ranjit Singh. Next came Wolff, a missionary, in 1832. Baron Hugel, Vigne, and Hen derson met in Srinagar in 1835, and recorded their meet ing on a black marble slab. This interesting relic, however, has recently disappeared, probably stolen by some unromantic peasant to do duty for a curry stone. The inscription ran : — Three Travellers : Baron Carl Von Hugel, from Jamu, John Henderson, from Ladak, Godfrey Thomas Vigne, from lskardo, Who met in Srinagar on the 18th November, 1835, have caused the names of those European travellers who had previously visited the vale of Kashmir to be hereunder engraved : Bernier ... ... ... 1663 Forster ... ... ... 1786 Moorcroft, Trebeck, and Guthrie ... 1823 Jacquemont .. ... ... 1831 Wolff ... ... ... 1832 The valley has now, however, as previously stated, been connected with the plains of India by a cart-road, and is annually visited by a large number of strangers from all parts of the world.

A Royal Prince, the Duke of Connaught, two Viceroys. Lords Ripon and Lans downe, and two Commanders-in-Chief, Sir Donald Stewart and Lord Roberts, are among those who have been attracted to Kashmir. Easier access with India and contact with foreign peoples and things are rapidly altering the primitive simplicity of the inhabitants and the Government, but the majestic mountains, the icy springs, the murmuring brooks, and the picturesque landscape will for ever retain their grandeur and beauty in spite of civilization and its influences. A day may come when the iron horse will penetrate into the valley; when Srinagar, the capital, will be a fashion able station with luxurious hotels and all the comforts of civilised life ; when steam power will revolutionize the industries and develop the resources of the country ; when in place of mat-covered boats, comfortable barges and house-boats will float upon its lakes and river.

But the tourist in Kashmir will always turn his gaze from the works of man to the glorious beauties of Na ture, and will look up with awe to the majestic Nunga Parbat and the hoary-headed Harmukh. The sylvan charm of Lolab, the flowery spring and the autumnal foliage of Lidar, the rivulets of Achhobat and Vernag, the Woolar with its reflections of snow-capped moun tains, and the Jhelum winding its course through fertile fields and banks lined with the stately chinar, with the panorama of Pir Panjal as a background, can never lack admirers Thomas Moore sings in his immortal " Lalla Rookh "— "The vale of Kashmir, With its roses the brightest that earth ever gave, Its temples and grottos, and fountains as clear As the love-lighted eyes that hang over their wave Bernier, the French physician, who visited the valley in 1664 with Aurangzebe, has left a most interesting account of Kashmir.

Archibald Constable publishes an English edition of his travels. Before Bernier, Xavier gave to the world his impressions of Kashmir in a work A GUIDE FOR VISITROS TO KASHMIR. entitled " Hajus de Rebus Japonicis, Indicis, etc." (Antwerp, 1605). Forster's letters giving the nar rative of a journey from Bengal to St. Petersburg were published in 1783. Other old books on travels in Kashmir are — " Researches and Missionary Labours " by the Rev. Jos. Wolff, " Correspondence of Victor Jacquemont," Moorcroft's " Travel," Vigne's " Tra vels in Kashmir, etc.," and Baron Hugel's " Travels in Kashmir and the Punjab." Of later publications the follovving may be mentioned. Knight's " Diary," Drew's " Kashmir and Jammu Territories," Bellew's " Kashmir and Yarkand," Wakefield's " Happy Valley," Wilson's "The above of snow," Colonel Torren's " Travels," Sir Richard Temple's " Travels in Kashmir, Hyderabad, and Sikkim."

" The Valley of Kashmir " by W. R. Lawrence, C.S., C.I.E., is a complete gazetteer of Kashmir, and gives valuable and authentic information about the country and its people. Besides containing accurate details regarding the Kashmiris, their habits and customs, religion and language, and occupation and industries, it gives information about the history, geology, botany, zoology, mineralogy and archæology of the country. Kashmir possesses a history written by its own historians known as " Raj Tarongini." It is now being published by Dr. Stein, the gifted Principal of the Lahore Oriental College, and has been partly translated by Fryer, Wilson, and Dutt. There are besides many valuable works on Kashmir history in Sanskrit and Persian, such as " Gu'zari Kashmir " by Diwan Kripa Ram, " Tarikha Kashmir " by Narayan Koui, and " Tawarikh Kashmir " by Pandit Birbal Kachru In the " Journal of the Asiatic Society of Bengal," Newel published a sketch of the Muhammadan history of Kashmir.

Drew gives a full account of the geography of the countries around Kashmir, while on geology, Drew, Blanford, Lydeker, and Oldham are authorities. Law rence's information on the flora and fauna is accurate. Royle's " Himalayan Botany " may also be consulted by the botanical student, and Adam's " Wanderings of a Naturalist in Kashmir," Ward's " Sportsman's guide,'' and Kinloch's " Large Game Shooting in Tibet and the North-West " will be found useful by sportsmen. To the student of archæology, Cunningham's papers in the "Journal of the Royal Asiatic Society," and in the ' Archæological Survey Transactions," and Cole's ' Illus trations" will give valuable information. Elmslie's " Dictionary, " Wade's 'Grammar,'' Knowles' " Kashmir Proverbs and Kashmir Folk Stories " are useful books. Tourists are recommended Ince's " Kashmir Hand book," revised by Duke, Collet's " Guide for Visitors," first published in 1884, Neve's "Tourist's Guide to Kashmir, Ladakh, Skardu, etc.," and " Cashmere en Famille. "

Chapter I. Hints To Travellers

THE majority of visitors to Kashmir will naturally select the easiest route, which runs up the Jhelum valley. On arrival at Rawalpindi, the large military cantonment on the North-Western Railway, the traveller will find accommodation either in the dak bungalow or in one of the many hotels. Here Messrs. Dhanjibhoy and Son, whose office is close to the dak bungalow, should be communicated with. This company will furnish every information regarding the condition of the road, make arrangements about the journey, and furnish tongas and ekkas. Visitors will find dak bunga lows all along the road, but it often happens that tired arrivals find all the rooms fully occupied. When ever, therefore, there is a rush, it is advisable for those who are travelling with their families to take tents. These moreover are indispensable when the valley is reached.

Besides the usual baggage, several kiltas — long-barrelled baskets covered with leather — will be found useful for stores and cooking utensils. Sports men who have to carry their camps through jungles and over bad mountain paths will find kiltas, which are easily strapped on to the shoulders of coolies, leaving their arms free, absolutely necessary. Tents and camp furniture can be hired at Srinagar. Travellers on their arrival in Kashmir have to make their own arrange ments for cooking, etc. Khansamahs are to be found at Srinagar, and can be temporarily engaged. But those travelling with their families would do better to bring with them a good khansamah and a sweeper. The latter class of servants are not easily available in Kashmir. During the winter months tongas cannot run through to Kashmir, and in the early spring, when there is a good deal of rain, there are usually many slips on the Jhelum valley road, and the journey is not only likely to be interrupted, but is often dangerous.

The Kashmir season, therefore, generally commences in the beginning of May and closes by the end of October. In Kashmir, the autumn is most lovely. On arrival in Kashmir the traveller, who has not brought his servants with him, will require a khansamah and a bhistie, who, besides supplying the camp with water, should assist in pitching tents and packing and unpacking the baggage ; another servant will be wanted to assist the khansamah. All should be obliged to do any necessary work which falls outside the usual routine of their duties. If a boat is hired, the boatman is a very useful general servant. When ladies and children are of the party, an ayah and a sweeper will be wanted. The climate of Kashmir, though always bracing, is very variable. Waterproof coats, a mosquito curtain in summer, and waterproof coverings for the bedding are essentials.

A suit of puttoo — a rough serge manufactured in the country — may be had at Srinagar for about Rs. 8, and though the style and fit would scarcely suit Bond Street, it makes a capital and comfortable wear for mountain travel. Visitors should not forget their dress suits, for Srinagar is not altogether uncivilised. Every season there are a large number of Euro peans at the capital. On the Queen's Birthday a State dinner is held, to which visitors are invited. Military officers attending are obliged to wear mess uniform. On arrival at Srinagar, the Maharajah's Native Agent, Babu Amar Nath Rai Sahib, is the first person to be communicated with. He speaks English fluently, and is a very obliging and civil officer. He will afford help of every kind and give any information in his power. He makes the arrangements for the hire of boatmen, coolies, servants, etc., and settles all disputes that may arise with regard to fares and the prices of purchases.

House accommodation is very limited in Kashmir ; many of the old bungalows that were formerly available for visitors are now occupied by the State officials. There are no dak bungalows or hotels. Travellers must, there fore, be prepared to live in boats or tents. House-boats are very comfortable to live in, but their number is limited, and unless previous arrangements have been made for the hire through an agent or a friend, it is difficult to get one. The rent varies between Rs. 30 and Rs. 50 a month. Bachelors can only pitch their tents in the Chinar Bagh, the other camping ground, the Hari Singh Bagh, now being built over. The Chinar Bagh is, however, large enough to accommodate all the visitors ever likely to require it. The Munshi Bagh is set apart for the tents of married visitors. It contains a row of pucca houses, but these are all occupied by permanent residents.

Further up the river is Ram Munshi Bagh, an excellent camping ground. The Resident lives in Srinagar during the summer at the Residency — a fine house with a large garden by the river side. It is customary to call on him and sign one's name in the Visitors' Book. A similar respect should also be shown to the Maharajah by entering one's name in the book kept for the purpose at the Palace Gate. The Maharajah and Resident leave Sri nagar in the winter, but the Assistant Resident is at the capital when the Resident is away. When out of Srinagar, the traveller should always take his servants with him. One of them should be allowed to have control over the others in all details ; he will like to use the authority given him, and the others will obey him readily. The traveller will thus be relieved of a good deal of trouble.

It is a good plan to make sure before every march that the proper num ber of coolies and ponies are present. The Kashmiris are willing workers, but they are ignorant of the ways of Europeans, and should be treated with patience and consideration. A traveller should avoid giving too much attention to details and little matters, and confine him self to stating his orders clearly and sticking to them. Attention to this will avert much unpleasantness and add materially to the enjoyment of a trip. On arriving at the end of a march, arrangements should be made with the Tahsildar or Naib Tahstldar at the nearest vil lage for the hire of coolies, and ponies for the next march. As long a notice as possible is needful, as the men and animals are often taken from the fields, some times some miles distant.

For supplies during the journey, eggs, milk, butter, and fowls can always be had at a reasonable price. Those who penetrate out of the beaten tracks for shikar purposes, should provide themselves with all necessaries from Srinagar, where all kinds of European stores of excellent quality are obtainable. The traveller should personally pay the coolies at the end of each day's march, and a good sup ply of two anna, four anna, and eight anna pieces should be kept, so that each man can be paid separate ly. If a rupee is to be divided amongst three or four, there is frequently a quarrel. Indian coin is accepted eagerly everywhere in Kashmir. In Srinagar currency notes and cheques are easily negotiable. The Punjab Banking Corporation has a branch in Srinagar, where every kind of banking business is transacted.

At Sri nagar supplies are fairly good. Imported articles, such as kerosine oil and sugar, are expensive, but all indi genous articles are cheap. Pure milk can be obtained everywhere. The water-supply of Srinagar is now abundant and good. Fish can be had in abundance. It may be noted here that the roe of Kashmir fish should on no account be eaten, as the result is fearful gastric irritation. Bread can be had at Srinagar. A basket of excellent vegetable can be obtained from the Library garden for the modest sum of four annas. For the return journey from Srinagar, tongas should be booked beforehand either at Dhanjibhoy's Srinagar office, or by telegraph to the Agent at Baramulla. In the appendix will be found the rules, sanctioned by the Government of the Maharajah, for the guidance of European visitors, civil and military, and full in formation regarding the hire of coolies, ponies, etc.

Chapter II. Routes

THERE are several routes into the Happy Valley, but the easiest, and therefore the most frequented one is from Rawalpindi, vid Murree. The traveller takes a tonga at Rawalpindi, and drives all the way to Srinagar. The cart-road is open to every kind of wheeled traffic, and throughout the route accommodation and supplies are available. Those who prefer a less frequented route should leave the railway at Gujrat, 71 miles from Lahore, and proceed by tonga to Bhimber, 28 miles from Gujrat, the border village of Kashmir territory, and at the foot of the lower range of mountains, and thence march the 167 miles to Srinagar over the Pir Panjal pass, which lies at an elevation of 11,500 feet above sea level The distance is covered in twelve marches, but the paths are difficult and require much climbing.

This is the historical route which was used by the Mogul Emperors in their summer visits to the valley. In point of grandeur and magnificence, the scenery on the road cannot be surpassed. The other alternative route is vid Jammu, and begins at the railway terminus Tawi, at the foot of Jammu hill, and crossing the Banhal pass (9,200 feet high), enters the valley at Vernag. This route is, however, reserved for His High ness the Maharajah, and Europeans are not allowed to travel by it without special permission. The road is difficult, and supplies are not always available. The other routes into the valley are (i) through Poonch to Bara mulla, and (2) the Abbottabad route, which joins the Jhelum valley road at Domel. The former road turns off from Thanna Mundi, the sixth march on the Pir Pan jal route, thus avoiding the ascent over the pass.

The route by Abbottabad joins the Jhelum valley toad at Domel. In the winter, when the snow-lies heavy over the Murree hills, this latter road is a convenient one. There are several other less known routes, but they are very seldom used. All the routes, except that up the Jhelum valley, are difficult and full of obstructions, such as boulders, masses of rock, and unbridged or badly bridged streams. A few rest-houses are located along the Jammu road, but they are in a very dilapida ted condition. Supplies are obtainable only with the very greatest difficulty. Jhelum Valley Road. The railway journey ends at Rawalpindi, the great military station. At Rawalpindi maybe found a dak bungalow and sever al good hotels. All necessaries for a journey of several months are obtainable here. On arrival, arrangements must be made for a seat in the mail tonga, or for a special tonga which carries three passengers besides a fairly large quantity of personal baggage.

Ekkas are Station. Disiance. 1st Class Ky. Fare. Time. Calcutta to Rawalpindi Delhi do. Lahore do. Bombay do. Rs. As. P. 1,437 miles. 120 o o 54 hours. 4^3 >• 32 10 o 22 ,, J73 >> 10 13 o ro i,4> 2 ,, 88 4 o 6; ,, available for servants and heavy baggage. The mail tonga covers the journey to Baramulla in two days. It starts from Rawalpindi early in the morning, and arrives in the evening at Garhi, where it halts for the night ; and then starting at daybreak, reaches Baramulla at 3 p.m. In the summer, when the days are long, if there is no interruption on the road, a tonga will probably accom plish the journey as follows : — ist day. — Rawalpindi, leave at 5 a.m Murree, reach at 10 a.m., breakfast at Sunnybank hotel, start at 11 a.m. Kohala, reach at 3-30 p.m. Domel, reach at 6-30 p.m., halt for the night. 2nd day. — Domel, leave at 5 a.m. Uri, reach at 10-30 am.

Baramulla, reach at 3-30 p. M The road between Rawalpindi and Srinagar is 195 X miles long, and is divided into the following fourteen stages : — _. <u _D S 3 2 Name <L> > O ___) _; c_ aj ___ > _£_£ .SP* _> _J a. " ii u c a 5 Remarks. Feet. Miles. 2 3 Rawalpindi to -- Barako Tret Murree (Sunnybank) 1,720 4,000 13. 12 Dak Bungalow. Ditto. 6,050 I'_ Hotels Murree. 7,517 feet above sea level and 38% miles from Rawalpindi. On leaving Rawalpindi, the tonga drives over a good level road, lined with sheesham trees. At the 13th mile a hill stream is crossed, and half a mile further on is the Barako dak bungalow. Shortly after leaving Barako the road enters low hills and gradually ascends, though the real climb does not begin till the 23rd mile is reached. On the right side of the road lies the Tret dak bungalow.

Beyond Tret the road rises rapidly to Murree and passes the Murree brewery at the 32J mile. Above the brewery is the combined post and telegraph office of Goragalli. The tonga then runs up to the _. •1 _3 E _ _, Name. > o _3 — rt V _-__ ._. rt (LI _■ f— 1 _0 — u c <_ tfl 5 Remarks Feet. Miles. 4 Kohala 2,000 27 _ Dak Bungalow, Telegraph Office. Dak Bungalow. Dak Bungalow, Post and Telegraph Office, Dispensary. Dak Bungalow, Post and Telegraph Office. Rest-house, Post Office. Dak Bungalow, Post and Telegraph Office Dak Bungalow Post and Telegraph Office. Dak Bungalow, Post and Telegraph Office. Dak Bunyalow, Post and Telegraph Office, Dispensary. s 6 Dulai Domel 2,181 2,3 f9 12 9_ 7 Garhi 2.750 '3 7 8 9 8 9 Haitian Chakoti 3,080 3,78o 10 11 10 o Uri 4,425 13 - n :t Rampor 4,-25 '3 1 2 2 Baramulla 5,.° 16 3 4 Pattan Srinagar 5.300 5,204 16 13 14 Murree hills, and reaches the Commissariat godowns, where the road divides into two.

The lower fork winds round the east face of the Murree hills and leads direct to Kohala and Kashmir. Sunnybank hotel is conveniently situated for travellers. From Murree to Kohala, 27^ miles, the road gradually descends. It is a long and somewhat tedious journey. On the opposite side of the valley are the territories of the Rajah of Poonch, the hill sides being dotted with the fertile fields of prosperous villagers. There is no dak bungalow between Murree and Kohala — a want which is often felt by travellers. Kohala is very hot in the summer. Crossing the bridge at Kohala, the traveller enters into the territory of the Maharajah of Kashmir. During the summer months the heat is intense on the road between Kohala and Chakoti, and it is advisable to travel across this in the early morning. A new bridge has recently been constructed, the old suspension bridge having been swept away by the floods of 1893.

The Jhelum valley road is a triumph of modern engineering. It is cut into the sides of the mountains and follows the course of the Jhelum as closely as possible The work was begun in 1880 and completed ten years after. The former road was barely more than a path, and was rough and steep, being in no wise practicable for wheeled traffic. After crossing the suspension bridge, the road passes Barsala and Chatar, and descends to the Agar Nadi. Below the 12th mile-stone from Kohala is the charming dak bungalow of Dulai. Between Dulai and Domel, on the right bank of the river, a rapid mountain stream, known as the Nainsook, meets the Jhelum at the 16th B mile from Kohala. Above the Nainsook both banks of the river Jhelum are in the Maharajah's territory. Nine and a half miles from Dulai is Domel — the junction of the " two waters " — where the Kishnagunga runs into the Jhelum Here there used to be an excellent dak bungalow, extensive workshops, and a good bridge over the Jhelum, but the great flood of 1893 swept them all away.

Across the river, i£ miles from Domel, is the town of Muzaffarabad, which is the head quarters of the district of Muzaffarabad. This district includes all the hilly tracts between Baramulla and Kohala. Half a mile from Domel the Kishnagunga is crossed by a bridge, which leads to the Abbottabad road, vid Garhi Habibullah. From Domel the road turns off at an acute angle south-east and east. The bungalow at Garhi is charmingly situated. From here it is possible to see the jhula or rope-bridge over the Jhelum. From Garhi to Hattian the distance is 10 miles. The scenery is varied. After passing the Garhi bungalow, some plane trees (chinars) are to be met with, but these are not so large and beautiful as those to be found in the valley of Kashmir. The climate of India has now at last been parted with, and the more bracing breezes from the beautiful mountains of Kashmir refresh and invigorate the traveller.

There is a rest-house at Hattian, but no khansamah. Between Hattian and Chakoti stands a noble chinar tree, near which is a mountain stream of pure water. Across the river will be seen a mud fort, near which a Sikh army was once totally annihilated by the Paharis. From Chakoti to Uri the road rises considerably. The hill sides being formed of loose stones and earth, dangerous landslips frequently occur, blocking the road and interrupting traffic. The Jhelum flows at the bottom of the valley, noisy and turbulent, racing over big boulders and deep pools. The scenery is bold and purely mountainous. Here and there table-lands may be seen, on which are a few huts, hardly numerous enough to form a village One pities the lonely life of the inhabitants on these heights, almost entirely cut off from the rest of the world, many of the table-lands being on the opposite side of the river.