On the Threshold of Central Africa. A record of twenty years' pioneering among the Barotsi of the Upper Zambesi ... Translated from the French and edited by ... Catherine Winkworth Mackintosh. With forty-four illustrations, etc

Front matter

Vandvk-p"hoto Walker JcBoucall.ph.sc ON THE THRESHOLD OF CENTRAL AFRICA A RECORD OF TWENTY YEARS' PIONEERING AMONG THE BAROTSI OF THE UPPER ZAMBESI BY FRANQOIS COILLARD Of the Societe" des Missions Evangeliques de Paris Translated from the French and Edited by his Niece CATHERINE WINKWORTH MACKINTOSH With Forty-Four Illustrations from Photographs by the Author LONDON HODDER AND STOUGHTON 27, PATERNOSTER ROW Printed by Hazell, Watson, & Viney, Ld., London and Aylcsbury. > ZO THE BELOVED AND BLESSED MEMORY OF HER WHO FOR THIRTY YEARS SHARED AND ADORNED MY LIFE AND MISSIONARY ACTIVITY JOYFULLY FACED THE WANDERINGS, HARDSHIPS, AND DANGERS OF PIONEER WORK, WHO BY HER SUFFERINGS AND DEATH CONSECRATED THE BAROTSI MISSION, AND NOW SLEEPS AT SEFULA. " She hath done what she could." CHRISTINA COILLARD (NEE MACKINTOSH). [To face page v V AUTHOR'S

Preface

TO THE ENGLISH READER THE present work is not a systematic history, either of my own missionary career of forty years, or of the Barotsi Mission. These are only scattered leaves, collected, at the request of friends, from the pages of the fournal des Missions Evange'liques, where they have appeared from time to time during the last twenty years, and now published less for those who already know them than for the rising generation, for whom the Africa of the ox-waggon and the assegai will soon be little but a name. Jotted down in the intervals of arduous toil, often by the light of camp-fires, cramped in a canoe, or jolted in a cart, they make no literary pretensions ; they are but simple descriptions, which have already proved interesting to some, and which God has deigned to bless. I should have liked to condense them much more, and above all to revise them ; but time and health have failed me to do more than glance over the proofs.

After all, the untrammelled style of the traveller sits better upon an old African wanderer. In an academical garb, to which I have no title, my friends would not recognise me. I am no painter, but I do admire Nature. Nowadays every one practises photography, myself amongst the number. The illustrations to this volume have been executed from very indifferent negatives ; they are the work of a tyro, hampered by adverse conditions of climate and the lack of suitable appliances ; and their sole value — if they possess any — is that they are instantaneous views. Though not artistic, they are VI

PREFACE.

faithful, and I would say the same of the letters which they illustrate. They, like the pictures, only profess to be instantaneous photograplts ; not artistic, but certainly faithful. I do not share the weakness of certain amateurs who are the sole admirers of their own performances, and who do not perceive that people only praise them out of good nature. I have far too exalted an ideal for that. I am fully aware of my own awkwardness and my own short-comings. If here and there I have succeeded, it is by sheer accident. But being only an amateur, I do not profess to work for the great public. My heartfelt gratitude also is due to my niece, who, with her sisters' help, has spared neither time, pains, nor labour to make this volume presentable to the English Christian public, and thus serve the interests of the Lord's Kingdom.

But if these pages can interest our friends, and win new ones for us ; give them a true idea of the country where we have travelled, laboured, and suffered ; and increase their love for the work to which we have given our lives ; if only they can comfort some hearts, and confirm some souls in the Faith ; give a fresh impulse to the Evangelisation of the Heathen World ; awaken and develop some new vocations ; — if, above all, they can exalt and glorify the Master \Yh^(r 1 serve, and Whom I love — I shall have succeeded, and my prayer will have been granted. F. Coillard. September 12th, 1897. NOTE THE heartiest thanks are due from author and editor to Captain St. Hill Gibbons, whose generous courtesy has permitted us to make use of his own survey of the Barotsi country ; and to all other friends, who, by lending photographs in their possession, or in various other ways, have helped forward the publication.

Except where otherwise stated, the footnotes have all been added by the editor — of course, with the author's sanction. No pains have been spared to verify every detail ; but should the experienced South African detect any discrepancies or in accuracies, they must be laid to the charge of the translator, and likewise all literary short-comings. The English version is wholly inadequate to convey the charm of the original and the delicate precision of its diction. But the chief practical difficulty has arisen in connection with the spelling of the African names. The strictly phonetic and grammatical French orthography looked so unfamiliar to English eyes that it was abandoned as likely to confuse the reader. Unfortunately there is no rule in this respect among English writers on African subjects ; and it was found necessary to retain the / to represent the sound of e as in rein, while e (without accent) represents that of e in lean.

When the latter follows a vowel, it is marked with the diæresis e. The illustrations are all from photographs by M. Coillard, with the exception ofthe one facing page 17 — " The Camp, near Harrysmith " ; and this is also the only one that belongs to vu NOTE Part I. in order of time. The others were all taken after his visit to Europe, when he first studied photography. That of Mr. Waddell and the leopard was not taken at the time referred to in the text, but on one of many similar occasions later on. The portrait of M. Coillard is from a photograph by Vandyk, Gloucester Road, S.W. ; that of Mme. Coillard from one by Penabert, Paris. C. W. M. PAGE CONTENTS PAR T I THE BANYAI EXPEDITION 1877— 1879 THE BANYAI EXPEDITION 3

Chapter I

Off to Banyai'-land — Preparations for Departure — Visit to Natal — English Farmers — Return to Leribe — Conference at Morija — Evangelists chosen — Farewell to Leribe — Harrysmith — Arrival at Pretoria — British Proclamation — Mr. Bosman — British Soldiers — The Bush Veldt — Kindness of Boers — Goedgedacht — Valdezia — MM. Creux and Berthoud — Mr. Hofmeyr's Work — Volunteers from his Congregation — Departure from Goedgedacht 8

Chapter II

On the Banks of the Limpopo — Palm Tree Fountain— Crossing the Crocodile River — Lions — Arrival in Banyai'-land — The Chief Nyamonto — Adventures at Masonda's Mountain — Cattle carried off — A Great Deliverance — Messengers sent from Maliankombe at Nyanikoe to Lobengula 20

Chapter III

Alone among the Banyai — Treacherous Cowards — Carried to Bulawayo — Cattle restored — Lobengula's Captives — An Embarrassing Interview — A Month's Probation — Permission for Banyai Mission refused X CONTENTS PAGE 53 73 — Mission to Mozila proposed — Alternative Plans — The North Bank of the Zambesi proposed — Sickness and Discouragement — Lobengula's Second and Final Refusal— Dismissal 31

Chapter IV

Departure from Matabele-land — Final Interview with Lobengula — Misery of Africa — Ferocious Character of the Matabele — Barrenness of Mission Work— Tati Gold Fields—" Ruined Cities "—Ethnological Problems — Sickness in Camp — Accidents on the Road — Arrival at Khama's Town — Warm Welcome — Khama's Character and Government — Missionary Meeting — Future Plans discussed — Decision to go to Barotsi-land 43 V

Chapter V

Expedition to the Barotsi Valley— Desert Journey— False Guides— No Water— Liponkoe (L.M.S.)— Arrival at Leshoma— Victoria Falls— Sesheke— Making Acquaintance with Barotsi Chiefs— Their Cordiality— Barotsi Politics— Livingstone's Traces— Breaking Ground — First Gospel Preaching— Return to Leshoma— Lions— Death of Khosana— Return to Sesheke— King requests Missionaries to come back soon— Death of Eleazar — Of Bushman— Major Serpa Pinto .

Chapter VI

Shoshong to Valdezia— Seeking a Temporary Field for Basuto Catechists — Khama's Kindness — Seleka — Adventures near the Blaauwberg— Mr. Stech's Station— Mr. Hofmeyr's— Sickness and Death at Valdezia— Mochache's— A Sad Journey— Pretoria and Potchefstroom— Welcome to the Expedition— The Trek-menschen— Evangelists sent to Seleka — Bad News from Barotsi-land— Decision to visit France — State of Leribe— Journey to the Cape— Arrival in Europe .

Chapter VII

London— The Whirlpool— A Reminiscence— Coffee Palaces and Cabmen— Mildmay Conference— The Sunday-School Festival— Pleading the Cause of Africa— Molapo's Death— A Contrast ... CONTENTS XI PAGE

Chapter VIII

The Return to Africa — Arrival at the Cape — The Huguenot School — Stellenbosch — Wellington — Natal — Travelling New Style and Old Style — A Trying Journey — Arrival at Leribg — Disastrous Effects of the War — Jubilee of the S.M.E.P. — Disappointments — Tour Avith M. Jeanmairet among the Churches — An Appeal to the Friends of Missions — Arrival of the Weitzeckers — Departure from LeribS . 1 02

Chapter IX

Across the Transvaal to Shoshong — A Trying Journey— Difficulties at Pretoria — Duties remitted — General Joubert in a New Role — Pros pects of Scarcity — The Staff of the Expedition — Bad Roads — Saul's Poort — Delay and Losses at the Marico — Aaron's Arrival — Shoshong — Seleka — A Baptism there — Return to Shoshong — Gene rosity of Khama and his People — Messages from Barotsi-land — The Post — Starting again 114.

Chapter X

Shoshong to Leshoma — Kane — Cold — Khama's Envoys to Robosi — M. Coillard's Fiftieth Birthday— Pata-matenga— The Jesuits' Mission — Their Kindness — Difficulties of the Journey — Waddell — Aaron — Levi — Leshoma — A Pilgrimage 130

Chapter XI

Sesheke and Leshoma — Retrospects — A Heavy Washing Day — Arrival at the Zambesi Ford — No Response — Return to Leshoma — Explanations — A Matabele Scare — The Market at Leshoma — Mission Work — Messengers to fetch Missionaries — Hospitality at Sesheke — Start for the Capital — Revolution — New Delay — Ben's Troubles — Making Nets — Return to Leshoma — Zambesian Languages — A CONTENTS PAGE 209 Boy for Sale — Departure of the Basuto — Life at Leshoma — M. Coil lard and Aaron to Sesheke and Back — Akufuna chosen King — Sends to fetch Missionaries — Fever — Darkest Africa — Lavishness of Traders — Journey to Sesheke — Studies in Philology — A Direful Discovery — " The Chiefs in my Pocket " 141

Chapter XII

First Journey to the Capital — A Prosperous Voyage — Camping on the Banks — The Rapids of Death — Pirates and Brigands — Ngonye Falls — The Barotsi Valley — A Royal Tomb — Nalolo and Queen Mai'biba Lealuyi — An Official Reception — Inspecting a Site — A Night Adventure — Respect of the Barotsi for the Basuto — Return to Sesheke — Death of Aaron's Daughter — Leshoma once more — A Dark Prospect Disasters with the Post and the Draught Oxen — To our Collaborators 165

Chapter XIII

Winter at Leshoma — Kamburu and Nguana-Ngombe — Soap-making — Neighbourly Intercourse with the Jesuits — Fresh Political Troubles and Delays — A Bargain in Goats — British Protectorate of Khama's Country — Engagement of Mile. Coillard to M. Jeanmairet — The Passage of the Zambesi — Life at Kazungula — Death of Little Monya'i — Arrival at Sesheke — The Jesuits — Dr. Holub — Revolution and Civil War — Treachery and Robbery — Perils of Waters and Perils of Wild Beasts — Marriage of Elise Coillard and M. Jeanmairet — A Wedding Party under Difficulties — Building the Station — A Reign of Terror — Middleton sent to Pretoria 184.

Chapter XIV

Second Journey to the Capital — A Zambesian Charybdis— The Hunter's Paradise— Boat lost in the Rapids— Vandalism— Nalolo and Queen Mokwae — An Unexpected Meeting — King Lewanika — Lealuyi — Visit of the Chief Moremi— The Barotsi Lekhothla— Conversation with the King— Barotsi Legends — The Natamoyo— Sunday Service Back to Sesheke — Visit to Mambova — Murder and Cattle-lifting — An Appeal— Middleton returns from Pretoria— Dr. Holub

Chapter XV

Third Journey to the Valley— Sesheke to Sefula by Land— The Vanguard with Waggons — Nguana-Ngombe — The Morantsiane— Progress under Difficulties— The Tse-tse Fly— Refractory Servants— Kalangu CONTENTS XIII PAGE 233 v 297 An Eclipse of the Sun — Dr. Holub's Disaster — Njoko — A Catas trophe — The Lumbe River — A Vision — Depopulated Districts — Misfortunes never come singly — A Rare Treat — The Motondo River The Forest of Thirst — The Ruyi River — A Conjuration — Sefula Springs — Hidden Riches of Vegetation — Matsa — Sefula at Last

Chapter XVI

The Station of Sefula — Clearing the Ground — Lewanika's Palace — Industry of the Barotsi— Departure to fetch Mme. Coillard — The Thief of Time — An Ardent Sportsman — Justice at Sesheke — -The Shadow of the Almighty — The Source of Weakness — A Ten Years' Pilgrimage — An Anxious Parting — Prosperous Journey to Sefula — K Miseries of the Vassal Tribes — A Natural Phenomenon — Rapid Progress of Mission Buildings — The King's Tribute — A Visit from Lewanika 260

Chapter XVII

Beginnings of the Work at Sefula — A Council at Lealuyi — The Barotsi's View of Missions — The Execution of a Sorcerer — The Marriage Question — Poison v. Bloodshed — The House Built — School established — Difficulties of Discipline — Trial by Ordeal — " Thou shalt not kill " — The Missionary's Daily Life — Industrial Skill of the Barotsi — Their Character — Arrival of Reinforcements — Plots and Counterplots — MM. Dardier and Goy — An Equestrian Adventure — A Tragedy 277

Chapter XVIII

Barotsi on the War-path — A Cattle Raid in Prospect — " To the Mashukulumboe ! " — A Full-dress Parade — On the March— The Prophetess — Break-up ofthe School — Thieves — -Fate of the Rebel Mathaha and of the loyal Tahalima — " The Commune " — False Reports CONTENTS XIV

Chapter XIX Page

The Return of the Army — Its Reception at the Capital — Distribution of Loot—" She"— Death of Dr. Dardier and the Jallas' Baby — Reflections and Hardships — The Basuto Evangelists — The Spirit of Missions — The King's Diplomatic Illness — Divining Bones — Blossoms in the Desert — Nguana-Ngombe's Confession of Faith — Visit of Mr. Selous— " Lost Whites " 3ID

Chapter XX

A Visit to Lealuyi — Famine at the Capital — A Memorable Pitso — The King proposes to place the Country under British Protection — A Storm — Liomba the Scapegoat — Mme. Coillard and the Barotsi Women — The King's Daughters as. Mission Pupils — Difficulties of Evangelisation— Departure of Aaron, Levi, and M. Goy — Alone at Sefula — Mad Dogs 326

Chapter XXI

A Serious Talk with Lewanika — Queen'Mokwae — Ex-queen Mai'biba — At Death's Door — Improvement in the School— Sickness and Mortality—Hostility at Nalolo — Break-up of the School — The Mokwe Tunga and his Troubles — Nalolo to Lealuyi — The Nalikuanda — A Prodigal's Return— Losses of Cattle — A Mining Concession . . 342

Chapter XXII

A Journey from Sefulato Sesheke — Nalolo and Queen Mokwae— A Hard Soil — How to reach the Zambesi Women — Seotna — An Anniversary — Entertainments at the Bivouac — Sesheke — Kazungula — A Conference — The Return — Unpacking Cases — A Letter from Lewanika 358

Chapter XXIII

Still alone at Sefula — The School — Nyondo the Moshukulumboe — Litia, the Heir-apparent — A Sale of Books — Lewanika's Efforts to put doAvn Crime — The Canal begun — New Year's School Feast — Royal Visitors — A Picnic — First Concession to the British South African Company — "The evil that you hinder" — Prohibition of Slave-dealing S! and Intoxicants — M. Adolphejalla — Nguana-Ngomb6's Baptism — A Visit from the British South African Company's Agent — Native Intrigues and Suspicions — History of the Negotiations — The Treaty Signed — Terms of the Concession — Delimitation of the Barotsi Frontier— Khama's Embassy— The European Mail— The Station "^ onfire CONTENTS XV

Chapter XXIV Page

A Journey to Sesheke — Losses of Cattle and Waggons — M. Jeanmairet's Illness and Departure for Basuto-land — Arrival of Mile. Kiener — Difficulty of Obtaining Canoes — Kazungula — Death of the Jallas' Second Child — Litia's Courage and Progress — The Absence of the Marriage Tie among the Barotsi — Infanticide — The Tyranny of Custom — A City of Refuge — Progress — An Ox to sell — Return to Sefula — Difficulties of Transport — Litia's Departure for Morija . . . 392

Chapter XXV

Dark Days — Political Calumnies — The Floods — Narubutu and the Conservatives — Temporary Capital at Sana — A Royal Water-party — Easter Sunday — A Visit to the King and Queen — Revival of Thieving in the School — A Sad Story — A Visit from the Jallas — Levity of the Zambesians — A Hunting Expedition — Death of the Only Horse — A Clever Thief and his Punishment — " Alexander the Coppersmith " — The Primitive Methodist Mission — " The Terror of the King " . 406

Chapter XXVI

The Death of Mme. Coillard — Her Last Visit to the Capital — Litia's Confession of Faith — Her Last Illness — " Do be in earnest, do ! " — The Burial-place — Sympathy ot the Barotsi — The Firstfruits of the Harvest— A Little Slave-boy — Nyondo — Queen Victoria confirms the Agreement of the Chartered Company — A Deficit . . . 427

Chapter XXVII

De Profundis — A Visit to Lealuyi — The Yellow Heart of the Barotsi — Painful Defections — Dr. Johnston — Arrival of Paulus — The Methodist Mission — A Thunderstorm — Plan for a Station at the Capital — An Appeal 439

Chapter XXXI

The Interdict withdrawn — A Coup d'etat — Warriors decorated — Building Operations — Lewanika's Skill in Handicrafts — Christmas at Sefula — A Hurricane — Mashukulumboe-land opened to the Gospel — Painful Defections — Litia and Andreas — Mackay of Uganda— " Quit you like men " 493

Chapter XXXII

Clearances at Loatile — Forced Sales — A Royal Bargainer — A New Boycott — The League of Prayer — A Final Victory — Women attending Church at last — Opening of the School — Course of Instruction — The Church — The Causeway — Mokwae's Magic Sovereign — Emulation — Mr. Waddell's Devotion — Lay-helpers 506

Chapter XXXIII

The Mail lost — The Primitive Methodist Missionaries — Absence of Skilled or Unskilled Labour — Procuring Thatch — Construction of the Causeway — The Bridge — Termites again — An Important Question of Fashion in Beads — The Rainy Season — The Water-supply — The Abyssinian Well — A Terrible Disappointment — The Matabele Invasion — Faint-hearted Patriots 518

Chapter XXXIV

Fall of the Matabele Kingdom — Levity ofthe Barotsi — A Royal Weathercock — House-to-House Visitations — Prisoners — A Sad Story Queen Mokwae's Visit — A Lesson in Good Manners — Ilfaut souffrir CONTENTS XVII PAGE 532 pour etre belle — Dedication of the Church — A Festival — Lewanika's Oratory — The King as a School Inspector — A School Treat — Drastic Discipline — The, Chief Sinde — The Great Flood — Matindis — Flight of the Natives — Their Return — The Goliath of Paganism

Chapter XXXV

Arrival of M. and Mme. Begum — Conference at Kazungula — Hopeful Prospects — Journey from the Capital to Kazungula — Projected Journey to Basuto-land — An Appeal for Medical Missionaries — Sixtieth Birthday — The Victoria Falls — The Plain on Fire — Sefula forsaken — An Awakening of Consciences at last — Lewanika and his Converted Wife — Hindrances in starting for Basuto-land — Inauguration of the Station at Nalolo — The Waggon breaks down — Renunciation of the Journey — A Work of God — Litia's Prefecture at Kazungula — His Repentance • . 552

Chapter XXXVI

A Parish Visitation — The King's Mother — Two Staunch Conservatives — The Resurrection — Wina and the Question of Polygamy — Hugging their Chains — A Royal Baby — A Little Prisoner — Photography under Difficulties — Nyondo's Wedding — Christian v. Heathen Marriage — Paulus's Zeal outruns Discretion — " Before Governors and Kings " — The Christians acquitted — Sickness — The Water-supply — The Bible School begun — The New Year 570

Chapter XXXVII

The Drought — Medical Missions — M. and Mme. Beguin at Nalolo — A Visit to Sefula — Locusts — The Return of a Prodigal (Mokamba) — A Bible-woman — A Real Awakening — Average Rainfall — Royal Pretensions 582

Chapter Xxxviii

A Missionary Exploration — Liomba (Mokamba's) Escort — Katuramoa — The Oracle — A Sturdy Protest — Libonda — Memories of Livingstone — A Little Missionary — Lepakae — Ttie King's Messengers — Hornless Cattle — The Mamboe Tribe — A " Son of Thunder " — The King's Canal — Confluence of the Kabombo — Bread upon the Waters — Customs of the Balunda and Balubale — Siyonda — The Chief Sinde — His Hospitality — A Halt at Mosoandunga's — The Rapids of b CONTENTS PAGE Sapuma — Short Commons — An Inhospitable Neighbourhood — Kakenge's — A Rude Reception — Famine — A Trial of Faith — A Wonderful Deliverance — Tragi-comedy — Conversion of Boatmen — Return to Lealuyi 593

Chapter XXXIX

Serious Illness — A Journey South — Lewanika's Farewell — Death of Seonyi— MM. Gibbons, Reid, and Bertrand— A Retrospect — A Grave in the Wilderness — Bulawayo — A Contrast — A Forecast — The Matabele Rising — The Rinderpest — Mafeking — Kimberley— Cape Colony — The Dutch Mission — The Drummond Castle — Farewell to Africa 619 Conclusion 633 Glossary 649 Index gee LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS portrait of f. coillard Frontispiece f Facing page CHRISTINA COILLARD (NEE MACKINTOSH) v THE CARAVAN IN THE MAKARI-KARI DESERT ... 1 THE CAMP, NEAR HARRYSMITH j» ON THE LIMPOPO (CROCODILE) RIVER 2e SUNRISE IN THE DESERT ....... e(, THE MISSION PARTY, MAY 1884 gy CROSSING THE MARICO (MALIKOE) RIVER . 120 A NEW SORT OF TEAM ........ 127 A MOSAROA OR BUSHMAN .... ,,r LESHOMA A MARKET DAY ......... lA/i MASATOANE A CHIEF OF SESHEKE I63 FALLS OF NGONYE, UPPER ZAMBESI ......... l6q AKUFUNA (TATIRA), THE USURPER . . . . . , . . .17?

MATHAHA (SEFANO), THE REBEL CHIEF . . . . . . . .175 LESHOMA M. JEANMAIRETS SCHOOL tg8 QUEEN MOKWAE SLAVES BRINGING HER FOOD 211 LEWANIKA AND HIS CHIEF WIFE MA-MORAMBOA (l886) 224 THE YOUNG MORANTSIANE 224 SEFULA MR. WADDELL AND HIS UNWELCOME VISITOR ..... 256 THE LEKHOTHLA AT LEALUYI MATOLELA BRINGING TRIBUTE AND SALUTING THE KING ............. 26Q BAROTSI WARRIORS ON THE WAR-PATH 20.6 BREAD-MAKING 316 A CROCODILE OF THE UPPER ZAMBESI 324 LIOMBA 332 "NALIKUANDA" THE STATE BARGE 3C4 CARRYING CANOES PAST THE RAPIDS OF SEOMA , . 361 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS XX Facing page MR. WALL AND HIS BUFFALO 3^ RAPIDS OF NGAMBOE, UPPER ZAMBESI . . . . . . . -373 ON THE ZAMBESI, BELOW NGONYE FALLS 393 " NALIKUANDA " A ROYAL PROGRESS 4°9 GRAVE OF MADAME COILLARD, SEFULA 432 SEFULA MR. WADDELL AND THE BOYS AT WORK ...... 453 A SACRED PLACE A ROYAL TOMB AT LIRUNDU, NEAR LEALUYI . . . 475 HOME OF A MAKUENGO FAMILY A BUSHMAN TRIBE 497 RAPIDS OF SAPUMA 529 KAZUNGULA THE MISSION STATION 552 AT NALOLO THE QUEEN'S BARGE, AND SITE OF MISSION STATION . . . 565 KABAKO RIVER RAPIDS ABOVE THE FALLS 577 KABAKO FALLS TRIBUTARY OF THE ZAMBESI, RIGHT BANK .... 593 VILLAGE OF BALUNDA TRIBE, SHOWING HUTS AND GRANARIES .... 604 THE CHIEF KAKENGE — SLAVE PRESENTING SNUFF-BOX . ... 615 LEWANIKA AND HIS CHIEF WIFE ......... 636 MAP. MAP OF SOUTH AFRICA ...........

Introduction

THE banyan tree is the true emblem of the Church of God. Each one of its mighty branches bears roots ; each root that touches the soil, and grows there, becomes a new trunk, which in its own time must spread its branches farther, and strike new roots. If the Church's mission begins, and should begin, at Jerusalem, it must not stop short there. Her movements are always tending farther and farther afield ; her aspirations are ever towards the " regions beyond," to the uttermost parts of the earth ; her spirit is the spirit of conquest and aggression. " Forward ! forward ! " is her never-changing motto. Never has the Church grasped this more thoroughly than to-day. Modern missions sufficiently proclaim that. And what inspires us personally with joy and confidence is less the actual and immediate result which can be tabulated, than the spirit of reproduction and extension which animates the missions themselves.

That has its root in the nature of things. It is the essential condition of vitality. Woe to us who conduct them, woe to the missions themselves, if we hold them too long in leading-strings, and if, kept thus in an abnormal childhood, they lose the power of independent action and of responsibility ! Their members acquire a false conscience, their development is blighted, and the moment their guardians are removed they are condemned to dwindle and — disappear themselves. Perhaps this education presents peculiar difficulties among the natives of South Africa. Certain it is that among them, unhappily, it has not assumed those proportions which astonish us among the South Sea islanders and elsewhere. This is due in part to the local circumstances, to the immigration of the

INTRODUCTION.

white man, which undoubtedly changes the conditions of existence. But it is due also in part to a certain reserve in the confidence we bestow on our still infant Churches, and in their members, who have so recently emerged from the slough of heathenism. Perhaps, too, we shrink from the personal responsi bility of straying from the beaten track. Yet which of us does not reiterate — sincerely reiterate — the utterance, that, if ever Africa is to be evangelised, it must be by her own children ! What is so far only a beautiful theory ought to become a practice. Our Churches and our Christians must send out missionaries. There, as in Europe, that is the thermometer of religious life. To give, and give oneself in the spirit of Him Who loves us and gave Himself for us — that is its essence. The following pages form an account of a humble effort in this direction.

Up to what point the attempt has succeeded, it is for the reader to judge. The Banyai Expedition, which eventually led to the founding of the Barotsi Mission, was proposed and undertaken by the native Christians of Basuto-land — -a fact which must never be lost sight of in following its history. The question is often asked, why, when France has such extensive colonies of her own, the French Protestant missionaries are found labouring in British colonies. The answer is two fold. First, that, in the early part of the present century, the Protestants of France were prohibited from missionary work in their own colonies. Secondly, that the two fields they now occupy within the British sphere of influence were not under the protection of any European power when they first entered upon their labours.

About 1830, a wave of missionary interest swept over the Reformed Churches of France. But where should they find a field? While they were discussing this question, they received an appeal from Dr. Philip, of the L.M.S. in Cape Town, to which they at once responded ; and this led to the establishment of the Basuto Mission, at the request of Moshesh, the supreme chief. Of the three French missionaries who came to Basuto land in 1833, one name stands out pre-eminently — that of i86s] XXIII

INTRODUCTION.

M. Arbousset. The more his work and character are studied, the greater the reverence they inspire. He belonged to that race of giants whose exploits in the first half of the century have shed such lustre on our African missions. He possessed in a rare degree the gift of evangelisation, and of communi cating it from the very first to the native Christians. In his flock, men always formed a remarkable proportion of the congregation ; and each of them, in his own degree and capacity, took a share in the propagation of the Gospel. Not content with this home mission, M. Arbousset more than once sent his catechists for short excursions on foot, with a baggage animal for their provisions, to spend an indefinite time among the Bapeli, in the country now known as the Transvaal. Some of these catechists had been noted warriors before their conversion : their consciences were burdened with the depredations they had made upon these same tribes, and they wanted to atone to them by bringing them the Gospel of Peace.

Later on, in 1863, Isaiah Seele went, with the approbation of all the missionaries. Seele was a man of high social position, of rare intelligence and remarkable character ; he spoke French and English and several native languages, and possessed an extensive knowledge of medicine. He spent several years evangelising those tribes among whom the Berlin Society of Missions has since founded and carried on a prosperous work. Many of these tribesmen were in the habit of passing through Basuto-land on their way to and from Cape Colony, whither they went to earn money and buy guns. Thus they had seen something of the benefits of missions, and their chiefs were willing and even anxious to have permanent stations. But this movement was checked by the long and disastrous wars of the Orange Free State with the Basuto.

In 1865, all the French Protestant missionaries were expelled from the country, ourselves among the number. The only exception was the one at Thaba Bossiou, a stronghold which the Boers had not been able to take. Armed men brought waggons to our door, and carried us off in such haste that Mme. Coillard