Wanderings in Greece

Preface

. The author has explained, in the introductory pages of the following work, the circumstances which led to its production ; he has therefore only to add here a few words, as to the work itself, and the views and objects which have in duced him to venture on giving it to the world. With respect to the work itself as a literary composition, it would be as unfair as it would be unkind to look at it with a severely critical eye ; neither the recent habits nor the personal objects of the writer being those which usually lead to lettered excellence. But he believes he has seen much that may amuse, and something that may instruct, his fellow-countrymen — and, let him not omit to add, his country-women ; — and he has therefore desired to communicate VI

PREFACE.

. what he has seen, with no higher ambition, and in no more recondite language, than he would seek to employ in relating his adventures and observations to his own family circle. If in doing this he should succeed, in beguiling an hour that might have been more idly spent, he shall feel gratified and repaid for his labour : and if he could further persuade himself that that la bour will tend, in the smallest degree, to better the fortunes of a country in whose welfare and regeneration he has ever felt, and ever shall feel, the deepest interest, his highest aim will be attained. That he may do so, is (he confesses) not beyond the reach of his hopes ; being firmly persuaded that nothing is wanting to the ultimate and speedy well-being of Greece, but a knowledge on the part of certain European nations, and of Great Britain in particular, of the real condition and capabilities of that beautiful and interesting country, and the means of developing those capabilities, in the right direction, and to the right end,— that of mutual benefit and securitv. CONTENTS OF VOL. I.

Chapter I

The manner in which the Author commenced his relations with Greece, and his arrival there — First intercourse with the Greeks of Hydra — Arriva] at Poros — Reception by the Authorities — The celebrated Greek Admiral, Miaulis — Greek Sailors — Prince Mavrocordato, Colocotroni, &c. — Funds of the Fleet — Great Meeting in the Lemon Grove — Appointment of Capo d'istrias p. 1 — 25

Chapter II

Visit to Admiral Tombazi — His Residence — His Wife and Daughter — Description of the Town — Quarrel between tlje Old Women and the President — Colocotroni — His Visit on Board p. 26 — 3G

Chapter III

The Siege of Athens — The Hellas Frigate and her Crew — Mode of Communication — Arrival at the Piræus — State and Position of the contending Forces — General Karaiskaki's Visit on Board — Female Aide-de-camp — Ceremony of presenting a Flag to the Greek Army by Lord Cochrane p. 37 — .52

Chapter IV

Council of War between Lord Cochrane and Karaiskaki — The Tomb of Themistocles — Mission of the Author to the Island of Egina — Deeds of Canaris, the celebrated Brulotier — Visit to him — His Wife and Child p. 53—70 CONTENTS.

Chapter V

The Palikari Chiefs— Their singular mode of Fighting — Tambouri For tifications — The American Doctor's Adventure — Brilliant Exploit of Young Colocotroni — Turkish Treachery, and its Punishment — Perilous Adventure of the Author — Tbe Monastery of St. Spiridion — Death in Battle of the Greek General-in-Chief. Karaiskaki — Unsuccessful Attack on Athens — Its disastrous Results — The Triple Alliance in favour of Greece p. 71 — R4

Chapter VI

Visit to the Island of Hydra — Dinner with the Primates of that place- Arrival at the Island of Spezzia — Proceed iu Chase of two Turkish Frigates — Take a Brig with Kiutahi Pacha's Harem on Board — Description — Attack upon the two Frigates — Attack the Fortress of Vassiladi — Proceed to Alexandria with the Fleet — Failure — Author brings fresh Supplies of Money from the Committees of Europe — Depressed Stateof Greece — Melancholy Death of Prince Paul Buonaparte p. 85 — 109

Chapter VII

The Seat of Government changed — Provisional Executive — Naval Operations — A successful Stratagem — Interference of the Allied Powers — Battle of Navarino — Its happy Consequences — Adventure with Pirates — Scene of Byron's Corsair p. 1 10 — 123 CHAPTER VI1I. An American Eccentric — A Greek Foot-boy — Captain Hastings — Red-hot Shot— A French Adventure — Departure of Lord Cochrane — Presentation of a Sword of Honour — The Steamer — Capo d'istrias — His Assassination — Character of the President p. 124 — CONTENTS IV IH.W'TEK IX Steam-boat Communication with Greece — Soiree tit I lit li./iiu--- CSeiiiTuI Church — Tin' young Countesses Armaiispcrg — [uifjruveiiicnt in Greece — Nnpi>li di Romania — Aigos — DepATIureto Athens — Greek Sailors — Arrivnl it Ailiens — First View of the Acropolis — Anti>-|iiiiir^ — I,- p. I3H— UK

CHAPTER X.

) lie King'-. Public Entry into AlbeflS — Ball given '■■ the King — Tht >n inner in which Hit Ladies went to it— Description of the Seem.-, and the Persons present— Woodcock Shooting — A Greek Pcnsnnt and his Family p 149—150

CHAPTER XX

Koyal Ball at the ISngti&h r\riniMer's — Descriptive Particulars — Bfi&utijes present — The King — Scarlet Coats— Decorum and good Taste of the Greeks — Stenm-buat Project — Private Audience of the Author with the King — Explanation trf the Author's Views — The King's >in<|ii:ili - Red Approval and Support ttfiheta — Return to England.. .p. IIW — 10*'

CHAPTER XII

Formation of a Sleam-LxKit Company— Rivalled und su|)ersc-ded b\ (he French Government — Visit to Paris on the Subject — Interview with the French Minister <\f tlu> Finances — Return to England — Failure of the Project — liuiiun Co Greece in a French Steamer — Leave Mar seilles for Athens in 'a Steinm-i — Splendid Accommodations uf the Vessel — Trench Steam-boat Project — English Machinery and En gineers — Immense Advantages of the Undertaking — Grand Opening for English Capital and Enterprise — The Straits of Bonifacio — Birth place of Napoleon — Messina — Volcano of Slrombolo — Scyll.i .md <.h:nvbdis — Valeria — Quarantine — Visit to I Hermit — Malta — Arrival in Gre«.v — Personal Interview of Ilie Author wilh thi' Kinip. J 70 — ] X CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XIII.

Arrive at the Piræus — Perform Quarantine — The Countess of Armansperg and her Daughters similarly situated — The Death of the Princess Luise Cantacuzene — Sir E. Lyons — Audience of the King — Description of the Environs of Athens, and the Infinity of its Walks and Drives— State of Party— A small Theatre p. 193—203

CHAPTER XIV.

How to learn Modern Greek — Subscription for a Protestant Church — Mr. King and Mr. Hill, American Missionaries, and their Families — Appointment and Inauguration of the Council of State — Ceremonial — First Step to a Representative Government — Insurrection on the Frontier — Its Object to defeat the Project of a National Bank — Mr. and Mrs. Bracebridge — The Russian Minister and his Lady — The Author attacked by the Fever of the Country — Its Cause, Prevention, and Cure p. 204—218

CHAPTER XV.

Visit of the King of Bavaria to Greece — Ceremonial of his Reception Court Presentations — Unaffected Habits of the two Kings — A successful Petitioner — Good Effects of a Royal Visit — Amateur Concert at the Palace — The Company — Feast of the Lanthorns p. 219 — 228

CHAPTER XVI.

The Arrival of the Family of the British Minister — Christmas at Athens — Dinner at the Minister's — Persons present — Newcastle Coal The Bank — Reflections thereon — Anecdotes of the Greeks burying their Money — The high Rate of Interest — Opposition to the Bank — In what Way — And by whom — The Security of the Morea, Negropont, and the Islands — Embellishment of the Capital — House-rent dear The Reason of it p. 229 CONTENTS. XI

CHAPTER XVII.

Ball at the Bavarian Minister's — The two Kings present — They join in the Dance — The Greek Chieftains dance the Romaika — Style of the Entertainment — Athens as it was, and as it is — A fall of Snow — Its good effects on the Olive Harvest — Col. Rosner — Greek Christmas — Madame Catachasi's Ball — The Mazurka — Her two Children perform a Russian Peasants' Dance — Russian Policy and Politeness — Doctor Uœzer — Anecdotes of the King's Journey to Mount Helicon Parnassus p. 246—264 p. 246—264

CHAPTER XVIII.

A Walk to the Summit of Mount Hymettus— The Marble of it — Slate upon it — Clay of the Island of Santorin— Dr. Rœzer — Lady Lyons' Soirees — Conduriotti — Greek Officers — Greek Soiree — Greek Wedding — The Ceremony at it — The Poor Sciote — Caution to Englishmen who may wish to purchase Land in Greece — The Olive Grove towards Daphne — The Land to the South East of Athens — Advice to New Comers — An Old Philhellene in an Humble Sphere p. 265 — 289

CHAPTER XIX.

Sketch of the Lower Order of the Greeks — Feast Days — The Women The Dances — Early Marriages — The Peasantry Rich — Funerals — Sketch of the Higher Orders— The Attaches — The Influence of Women in Society— The Manner in which the Greek Ladies were brought forward p. 290—302

CHAPTER XX.

The Foundation of the New Palace — Advantages of such a Building — Ceremony — Description of the Spot — Ball at the Palace— Character of the Greek Ladies — New Acquaintance p. 303—311 CONTENTS. XII

CHAPTER XXI.

A Greek Party— An Anecdote amusing to Royalty— Greek Naivete- Greek Titles of Courtesy— The Carnival at Athens— Masks— Homer recited bv Modern Greeks— An awkward Rencontre— Another Masquerade—Amusements of the Lower Orders during Carnival— Story- Tellers—Close of Carnival— Lent P- 312—322 LIST OF PLATES St.. IN VOL. I. Portrait of King Otho To face title-page. Map of Twelve Miles round Athens p. 200 Marriage Ceremony 279 View of the Temple of Jupiter 306 Map of Greece At the conclusion of the volume. ERRATA. The reader is requested to correct with his pen the following Errata : — Page 24, line 17, for 1826 read 1827. _ 37, _ 1, for 1826 read 1827. 80, — 8, after " at " insert " the right of." 90, 2, for Dr. Bradfield read Dr. Goss. 1-24, in the heading of Chapter, omit the word " first," before " Steamer." WANDERINGS IN GREECE.

Chapter I

The manner in which the Author commenced his relations with Greece, and his arrival there — First intercourse with the Greeks of Hydra — Arrival at Poros — Reception by the Authorities — The celebrated Greek Admiral Miaulis — Greek Sailors — Prince Mavrocordato, Colocotroni, &c. — Funds of the Fleet — Great Meeting in the Lemon Grove — Appointment of Capo d'istrias. It will, doubtless, be remembered by many of my readers, that, for some time previous to the year 1824, the Earl of Dundonald (then Lord Coch rane) had been in the naval service of the Impe rial Government of Brazil. In the summer of that year, the northern provinces of the empire revolted from their new allegiance to Don Pedro, and Lord Cochrane was, in consequence, or dered to proceed thither, with a portion of the VOL. I. B ■1 INTRODUCTORY. army under General Lima, to reduce the insur gents.

I happened at that time to be in Brazil, having accompanied thither from England (in the previous year) a portion of my distinguished relative's family; and being disposed to see some service under so celebrated a commander, I cheer fully accepted a proposition which was made me, to accompany his lordship on board his flag-ship, in the capacity of private secretary. I determined also to enter myself as a volunteer in the Emperor's service. The immediate destination of Lord Cochrane, in the first instance, was Pernambuco, the most disturbed of all the rebellious districts ; and thither we proceeded, in the month of August, 1824 ; — the squadron consisting of the admiral's ship, the Don Pedro, of seventy-four guns ; two heavy frigates ; and transports carrying three thousand troops, under the command, as I have said, of General Lima.

We arrived quickly off Pernambuco, where the General landed with his troops, to the southward of the town, while the squadron blockaded it by sea. A fortnight after our arrival, the town surrendered, and the rebel governor, Carvalhao, sought INTRODUCTORY. refuge on board a British frigate which was then in the roads. Having remained a fortnight after the sur render, the squadron proceeded to Bahia, to take in stores. This being effected, the admiral sailed northward to reduce Ceara, another rebellious province. Having arrived there, and cast anchor, a deputation immediately came from the town, offering to surrender it, and raise the Brazilian flag, if the admiral would send on shore some of his own men to take possession of the fort. It may be proper to mention here, that the crew of the line-of-battle ship were all Englishmen, and it was by their means that the admiral was enabled to keep the rest of the fleet in subjection.

One of the frigates, too, which was commanded by Commodore Jewett, had also two hundred and fifty English seamen on board. The men from the latter frigate were ordered to land, and to them the fort of Ceara surrendered. And thus, on this, as on almost every other occasion, it was to British seamen that the Brazils owed their liberation from the Portuguese yoke. The Admiral remained at Ceara for one month, and then proceeded to Maranham, where a civil b2 INTRODUCTORY. war was raging. The townspeople were in arms against the president who had been appointed by the Emperor. His name was Bruce, and he boasted that his grandfather was a Scotchman, and that he was a lineal descendant of the famous Robert Bruce, King of Scotland. Be this as it may, his authority appearing to be obnoxious to the people, he was displaced, and a young and wealthy Brazilian, named Manuel de Lobo, was appointed in his stead.

This gave great satisfaction, and was the means of terminating the civil war in the province. Maranham is the most agreeable town in the Brazils for society. After having remained there between three and four months, Lord Cochrane requested me to proceed to England, on business. To this I assented, and quitted Maranham in Ja nuary, 1825. In the month of June following, Lord Cochrane arrived at Portsmouth, on board the Brazilian frigate Piranga ; and while she was undergoing repairs at the above port, news arrived that peace had been signed between Portugal and the Brazils. This being the term of the engagement between Lord Cochrane and the Brazilian government, he INTRODUCTORY. immediately gave up the frigate Piranga into the hands of the Brazilian minister, and turned his thoughts to other quarters.

At this time the war of the revolution was raging in Greece ; and as soon as the arrival of Lord Cochrane in England was known, the Greek deputies, Orlando and Luriottis, who were then in London, lost no time in securing his services in their cause. Every preliminary having been arranged, I was again requested to accompany his Lordship to the new scene of his exertions ; and I assented to the proposal. This was in the month of October, 1 825. As, however, it was necessary to prepare some naval armaments, Lord Cochrane's departure for Greece was delayed till May, 1826. In that month he embarked on board a small schooner, called the Unicorn, which had been formerly a yacht, and proceeded to Messina, on the coast of Sicily, that being the rendezvous appointed for the steam vessels which were to form part of his Lordship's expedition.

We waited there till the month of October ; but the steamers not arriving, we pro ceeded to Marseilles, with the view of obtaining DEPARTURE FOR GREECE. more early information from England relative to them. The news received was, that fresh obstacles had occurred as to their completion. A French brig was therefore purchased by the Greek committee at Marseilles, in order that Lord Cochrane might arrive in Greece with some semblance of a naval force. It was not till January, 1827, that this vessel was equipped, and the admiral then set sail finally for his destination, accompanied by the deputy, Orlando. Though I have determined to make Greece the exclusive object of my narrative, I have thought it well to take the foregoing brief and hasty glance at the circumstances which led to my lengthened sojourn there.

I shall not forget my first arrival in that beautiful and interesting country. We first arrived off the island of Hydra ; some of the inhabitants of which place came off in a boat to greet us ; and never was a more striking and characteristic race seen. They were, in appearance, totally different from anything that I had imagined from previous descriptions. Acquainted as I was with the inhabitants of various parts of the ARRIVAL AT HYDRA. world, civilized and uncivilized, I had hitherto met with none so singular in appearance as those which now presented themselves to me. The deeds of arms also that I had heard recounted of them by the immortal Byron, the newspaper records, the naturally high-coloured descrip tions given to me by the deputies, Orlando and Luriottis, had worked up my imagination to the highest pitch.

But still my expectations were surpassed by the strange and picturesque reality. The boat appeared to be one belonging to the government. It was very large and roomy, and the first thing that struck me was, the total ab sence of paint. This was a thing peculiarly obnoxious to an English and a naval eye, accustomed to our pretty light barks, and their gay and brilliant trim. Such as it was, and notwith standing its want of paint, it came rapidly along side, and boarded us, without the ceremony of first asking who we were and whence we came. The crew amounted to about twenty, who all came on deck, and walked aft without the least ceremony. They then inquired who we were. Having been informed by Mr. Orlando, in Greek, that the vessel had brought out the celebrated naval hero, Lord Cochrane, they expressed a wish to see his INTERCOURSE WITH THE Lordship, whom they had been anxiously expect ing for more than a year.

They were informed by Mr. Orlando that Lord Cochrane had pro ceeded to Poros only an hour before, on board the brig Sauveur, which had been in company with us from Marseilles. In fact, Lord Cochrane had, during the morning, quitted the schooner, and had proceeded to head-quarters, the island of Poros, about twenty miles distant from Hydra. The Greek sailors were somewhat disappointed, and thought the dignity of the island of Hydra had been wounded by Lord Cochrane not having visited it in the first instance ; for the island of Hydra had been the main support of the war. These men, generally speaking, from their com plexions, evinced that they had been mariners all their lives, the sun having well tanned them. They wore small red caps, from under which their hair flowed wildly down their shoulders ; on the upper lip they wore very long mustachios, which the older ones were continually curling, and bringing out the point; at the same time ad miring it by a downward glance .

This appendage (so singular for a sailor) made them appear, in my eyes, something similar to the picture that I had often fancied to myself of the ancient GREEKS OF HYDRA. Britons ; excepting that the former, I believe, some times went in puris naturalibus, or at least, if they did wear clothing, it was the skins of wild beasts. The Hydriotes were not quite so rude as that. They wore trowsers of blue cotton, and a jacket ; and by the immense capacity of the former, I should suppose they must have contained at least twelve yards. This was gathered into plaits round the waist, and only descended to the knees, which were left open, similar to a pair of drawers without ties. The hinder part presented a most singular appearance. It hung down almost trailing upon the ground, in a huge bag, which kept moving backwards and forwards, in a ludicrous manner, at every motion of the body.

They wore shoes, but no stockings ; and their legs were as dark as their countenances, and covered with hair. Round their waist they wore a large red sash in several folds. Their jacket was similar to a waistcoat, with sleeves, and ornamented with small buttons from the wrist to the elbow, and the same on the bosom. One little man, of a very dark rough-looking appearance, had the tail of his trowsers com pletely dragging along the ground. Orlando observed my attention, and came up INTERCOURSE WITH THE to me, saying, "I perceive, my friend, that you are quite astonished at the rude and savage appearance of my countrymen ; but I hope that you will not think the worse of them for their outsides. Recollect," added he, " that these men have been the principal obstacle to the Turk in the whole war ; and they have immor talized their island by their feats of valour.

These men," he added, " although under so un favourable an appearance, have wTives and chil dren at home, upon whom they lavish as much tenderness as you in more civilized climes. Their hearts are, I assure you, sensible to benevolent and lively impressions ; and they have proved that they are brave." Orlando then added, " I must ask a favour of you. Among us Greeks it is always the custom to make small presents on our arrival in any place, and these poor fellows expect it of me. Money I will give them ; but I wish them to re ceive something on the spot, that will appeal to their senses. You have said that you wish to have a long acquaintance with them. Will you, then, give them half a dozen bottles of wine, and I will say that you did so ?" I immediately called up the steward, and desired him to bring GREEKS OF HYDRA. six bottles of French wine that we had taken on board at San Tropez, about twenty miles from Toulon.

In a few minutes the steward handed up the wine ; and Orlando made them a speech in Greek, telling them that I had presented them this wine. All their animated countenances expressed the highest satisfaction ; and, at the same time, they put their hands upon their breasts, which is the mode of salutation in Greece, (instead of touching the rim of the hat, as sailors with us do,) repeating, several times, the words KccXos opi&ve, which signified that I was welcome to Greece. The corks of the bottles having been drawn, I was about requesting the steward to bring up some glasses ; but before I could do so, four of the party had already applied the bottles to their lips, and it was easy to perceive that they partook of the French nectar with quite as much zest without glasses as with them. These repeated applications soon emptied the bottles ; after which the drinkers looked at them, turned them round, and the old grey bearded ones walked quietly with them into the boat, — no doubt very sagely thinking that they were too useful to be thrown away.

ARRIVAL AT POROS. Meanwhile, Orlando prepared himself to go on shore in their boat. Having requested his equipage to be put on board, three or four hands were ordered aft; and, in a few minutes, Orlando was seated in the stern of the boat, and was pulled on shore by his wild-looking country men. With a fine fresh breeze, we now left the island of Hydra, the beautiful little vessel bounding over the billows, and every now and then dipping its bowsprit into the sea. The distance between the island of Hydra and Poros we soon ran over ; and at about three o'clock in the afternoon we approached the latter island. We observed one entrance, but that was not considered safe ; and the pilot we had on board, wdio was one of the boat's crew from Hydra, told us, in bad Italian, that we must go round the island.

We had to go about six miles round to get to the proper en trance, which we reached in another hour. The principal mouth of the harbour is not more than about a hundred and fifty yards across ; but very deep. On each side the land is rocky, and very bold, the summits being covered with a thick stumpy underwood. On passing through this narrow entrance, one DESCRIPTION OF POROS. of the finest sights in the world presented itself. The magnificent port of Poros forms a bay of at least five miles in length, and about three quarters of a mile broad. At the further ex tremity were the white houses of the town, built upon a hill, and rising gradually from the sea, up a steep acclivity. To the south was a rich and cultivated plain, extending the whole length of the port, backed by high hills. To the west and north were also mountains, whose summits were covered with brushwood.

Several foreign vessels of war were at anchor here, it being con sidered the safest port in the Levant. Certainly it seems as if it were made to belong to a nation possessing numerous fleets ; for two hundred sail of the line might remain at anchor with the greatest ease. I have since ascertained that the anchorage is excellent. Close to the town were about a hundred Greek merchant vessels, belonging to the principal individuals in the place. Such was Poros ; and the sight of its town, its port, the foreign vessels of war, and the scenery around, contributed to raise my opinion of the prospects of Greece. The Admiral had arrived only half an hour be- PRINCE MAVROCORDATO. fore us, having been delayed by going a little out of the course. He immediately came on board the schooner ; and the various authorities came off to visit him.

Prince Mavrocordato (now Charge d'Affaire at Munich) was one of the first. The name of the above individual must be fami liar to all my readers. He is a short, stout, well built man, of very dark complexion, with black eyes, an oval face expressing great intelligence, and his hair very long, hanging upon his shoulders, He was dressed in the European style, and wore on his head a little cloth cap. He also habitu ally wore spectacles. His manners indicated a man perfectly accustomed to the society of per sons of rank. He immediately entered into fami liar conversation with Lord Cochrane, in the French language. He carried his pipe with him, which he continually smoked, and which he is never without. Mavrocordato played a most distinguished part in the revolution of Greece. He had always hitherto held a responsible position, but at the mo ment I speak of he was not in any official situation.

In company with him was the brave, the pa triotic, the disinterested Miaulis, the man of the revolution. This worthy and excellent indivi- MIAULIS. dual, whose name and virtues it gives me the most heartfelt pleasure to record in these pages, was a native of Hydra, and he had, by his general talents and his great naval abilities, raised himself to the rank of first admiral of the island of Hydra ; which island, as I have before hinted, had been the terror of the Turks during the whole war. His countenance was open and dignified, and so calm that it appeared like a rock which no thing could move. Not that it had any character of sternness in it ; on the contrary, it possessed a placidity, blended with a firmness, which was anything but forbidding. Miaulis was dressed in the Hydriote fashion ; hut, of course, as became a primate of the island, his attire was of a description much superior to that of his poorer fellow-countrymen, whom we had encountered on our first arrival.

The moment Miaulis came on deck, he cor dially shook hands with Lord Cochrane, and a broken conversation commenced between them in Spanish, Miaulis speaking that language but imperfectly. At the period in question, he com manded the Hellas frigate, of sixty-four guns He knew perfectly well that Lord Cochrane'^ arrival would take the command out of hi.- MANUEL TOMBAZI. hands. Nevertheless, he evinced not the least jealousy, but was one of the first to offer his services under Lord Cochrane. " I know my countrymen," said he, "and that I can be of service to your Lordship on board the frigate ; I will therefore sail under your command." Such an offer was not to be refused, and he was re quested to remain on board. Several other distinguished persons came on board with the above individuals. Among the number was Manuel Tombazi, who had the superintendence of the arsenal.

He was a Hy driote, and had distinguished himself much in the war. He also held the rank of admiral ; but he was not on an equality with Miaulis. All the above individuals were invited into the cabin of the schooner ; and as it had been pre viously intimated to us that coffee is always presented to the guests, the steward and cook had re ceived instructions to get a good kettle of it ready. Accordingly, the moment the red caps of these distinguished guests appeared mounting the side of the vessel, there was an instant noise below of spoons, cups, and saucers ; and the French cook (who had been taken on board at Marseilles, and who had formerly served in Napoleon's cuisine) NAVAL ARMAMENT OF GREECE. instantly set himself in motion, and, by the time the guests had seated themselves in the cabin, the coffee was handed to them.