Pen and Pencil in Asia Minor; or, Notes from the Levant ... Illustrated with eighty-nine engravings, made chiefly from water-colour sketches by the author

Front matter

PEN AND PENCIL IN ASIA MINOR; on. NOTES FROM THE LEVANT. BY WILLIAM COCHRAN, MEMBER OF THF. SOCIETY OF ARTS; THE HIGHLAND AND AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY LONDoN AND EDINBURGH; AND FORMERLY OF THE AMATIC SOCIETT, LONDON AND SHANGHAI. ILLUSTRATED WITH EIGHTY-NINE ENGRAVINGS, MADE CHIEFLY FROM WATER-COLOUR SKETCHES BY THE AUTHOR. LONDON: SAMPSON LOW, MAESTON, SEAELE, & EIVINGTON St. Sttiistatt's fjnnsf, Fetter Lane, Fleet Street, E.C. 1887. J.U rights reserved.] LONDON : PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, Limited, STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS. CONTENTS. PAGK List of the Illustrations.. .. .. .. .. .. xiv Prologue, dealing with the Period between 1864 and 1885 . . xvii

Chapter I

Liverpool to Gibraltar. — Mediterranean routes — Start from Liverpool — The docks — Breakfast on board — The passengers — Off Holyhead — Skerry rocks — Gaps at the dinner-table — Neptune claims tribute — Uproar on deck — General suffering below — Gradual recovery — Bay of Biscay passed — Accident to a clergyman — -Portuguese coast — Cintra and Cape Rocco — Mouth, of the Tagus — Spanish mountains — Strait of Gibraltar — Political squabble in the saloon — Off to bed Pages 1 to 12

Chapter II

Gibraltar to Malta. — Magnihcent sutirise — Literary fever — Our rhymster — Our " Ancient Mariner" — Granada and Almeria mountains — Sierra Nevadas peaks— Malaga — Cape Gata — Algeria — Town of Oran — Another exquisite sunrise — Mountains of Algeria — "Tail end of a sirocco" — Gulf of Tunis — Galita islands — Pantellaria island — The "Ancient Mariner " on cuddies an' grapes — Divine service — Glimpses of Sicily — Mount Etna — -Speed of steamer reduced — Literary activity — Malta at early morn' — Scene from the deck — Grand Harbour — Fort St. Angelo — Difficulties on landing — Valetta — Strada Santa Lucia, or street of steps — Priests everywhere — The Governor's Palace — Church of St. John — Priestly intolerance — The forts — Our departure Pages 13 to 31 CHAPTEE III. Malta to Syra and Smyrna. — Injured clergyman left at Malta — Cape Matapan — Coast of Greece — Mount Elias — Imposing landscape — Fog Speed reduced — Stoppage — Island of Cerigo, birth-place of Venus — a CONTENTS.

IV Lacedæmonia — Cervi — Cape Malea — Distant view of Candia — Hermit's hut and chapel — Melos — Seriphos — Siphnos — Serpho Poulo — Karavi — Belo Poulo — Falconera — Island of Syra— Sights of Syra — Churches and flowers — Torturing an octopus — School attendance — Great men of Syra — Departure — Gulf of Smyrna— Mimas peak — SuDrise in the gulf — The Turkish fort Sanjak Kalissi — Fertile peninsula—^Agamem non's Baths — First glimpse of Smyrna — Termination of the voyage Pages 32 to 46

Chapter IV

Preliminaries of tlie Silk Harvest. — Hospitably entertained — Made a member of Greek and European clubs — Object of visit — Mr. John Griffitt of Bournabat — His sericultural efforts — Regenerated eggs — Beginning of season's distribution of eggs — Hagelar village — Pictures of the peasantry — Anxiety to get eggs — Their homes, splendours, and hospitality — A false family — Musical names and language — Change of scene to Magnesia — Distinguished travelling companions — Scenes on the railway — Magnesia — Statue de Cybele, or Niobe — An impostor defeated — Village of Chobanissa — Camel encampment — Sardis Pages 47 to 61

Chapter V

The Mulberry. — Varieties — Morus alba the best for silkworms — Mistaken views in America and elsewhere — Merits and demerits of other kinds — Feeding for colour — Chief silk-producing countries — Management of seedlings in France- — Plantations — Captain Mason of Yateley, Hampshire, an authority on silk-farming — Fortune's silk experiences in China — Schuyler's experiences in Turkestan — Mr. John Griffitt's experience in Asia Minor — Seedlings, cuttings, and layering — Pruning the morus alba — Scarcity of leaves not common in China — Plantations isolated from magnaneries — Scene in China during leaf harvest — Partial leaf-famine at Bournabat — Plan for tiding over a scarcity of mulberry leaves — Ensilage of leaves . . . . Pages 62 to 74

Chapter VI

, Graine Distribution. — At Bournabat — Rush of the peasantry to obtain regenerated eggs — Scenes at the distribution — Greek, Turkish, French and English, all being spoken at once — Cross-examination to prevent imposture — Applicants kept in check by one another — A twelve-miles' drive — Little military station — Black Turkish coffee without sugar — Approach to Nymphio — Ruined palace of Andronicus the younger — - Cherry orchards gay with blossom — Prancing up the main street of Nymphio — Eager crowd waiting for silkworms' eggs — Distribution CONTENTS. V 1 from the house of a vineyard-owner — Premature hatching — Spend the night at Nymphio— The village doctor- — Scene with a suspicious old lady next morning — Surroundings of the town — A ride into the brigand region — Turkish military escort — Scenes by the way — Rock-hewn bas-relief of Rameses IL, commonly called Sesostris, believed to be tbe oldest piece of carving in the world — Sketching under the protection of four loaded rifles — Wretched roads — Return Pages 75 to 85

Chapter VII

The Nursery and its Appliances. — Mr. Griffitt's observations — -Tribute to M. Louis Pasteur — Nurseries should be airy and clean — Hints as to educations — Ventilation and heating — Suggestions as to stoves — The incubator — Thermometer and hygrometer — Leaf cutter — Pierced papers and their advantages — Stands and frames — The microscope — • The cocoon-steamer . . . . . . . . . . Pages 86 to 97

Chapter VIII

Turkey Carpets. — Probable origin of the carpets — Were made in Asia Miuor before Homer's time — Very ancient industry in India and Africa — In Britain and France — Dutch carpet loom — Duke of Cumberland, an encourage r of the industry — About Turkey carpets — Oushak Ghiordes and Koula, places of manufacture — Something about Oushak — Its inaccessibility — Carpets brought to railway station eighty miles on camel-back — European machinery tried and abandoned — Particulars of spinning, dyeing, and manufacture — Novelties not appreciated by the weavers — Story about a carpet — The Messrs. Griffitt of Smyrna Pages 98 to 106

Chapter IX

Educating the Silkworm.— Mr. John Griffitt's experiences— Decline of sericulture in Turkey— Regeneration of silkworms— Preparing for incubation — Feeding — Disposal of the young worms at different elevations — Give abundance of space— Feed with dry leaves— Perfect cleanliness required — The critical age — Use disinfectants, and give fresh air — Incubating in France and Italy— Moulting periods— Quantities of food devoured— Italian estimates — Maturity hastened by heat — Chinese ideas Debernardi on feeding — Miss Bird's observations in Japan- Explanation of seeming incongruities — Mr. Griffitt on incubation— On the various ages, and how the sericulturist should act — On periods of feeding — On the moultings— Total food consumption — On mounting to spin — Gathering the cocoons — Separating the perfect cocoons for graine— Steaming Pages 107 to CONTENTS. VI

Chapter X

Greek Institutions of Smyrna. — Anniversary of assertion of Greek independence — Patriotic displays — Estimate of the population — Reason for Greek increase — Facts about Greece — King George — The Greek prelates in Smyrna, Archbishop Basilius and Bishop Athanasius Kyrilos — Story of the latter — Celebration of Easter — A midnight orgie — The Greek Hospital — Greek munificence to their institutions — Eagerness for education — Greek veneration for Mr. Gladstone — Greek pride in Lord Cochran — Items in the Cochran genealogy — Uev. Mr. HiU and Mrs. Hill of Athens — Story of two American missionaries and a little Greek maiden- — Rev. Mr. Hill's educational triumphs Pages 132 to 146

Chapter XI

Mysteries of Reproduction.— Selecting the cocoons — Discriminative examination for sex — Stringing the cocoons for reproduction — Issue of the moths — Difference in appearance between the sexes — Coupling the moths — Laying eggs on inclined surfaces — An exception in the Bagdad moth — Caution against contamination — Removing the eggs— Preserving the graine — Consignment of graine — Pasteur's cellular system — Method of producing cellular graine — Mr. Griffitt's invigorating practice — Twelve rules for sericulturists . . Pages 147 to 164

Chapter XII

Three Turkish Institutions. — Smyrna — Turkey improving — Hospitality — The konak — Barracks — The Hospital — Achmet Kiazim Effendi — Merits of the Hospital — -A suggested improvement — The Hospital gardens — Tho Industrial School for Orphan Boys — Yousuf Zia Effendi — Scenes inside the institution — The School of Commerce and Agriculture — Mehemed Noury Bey .. .. .. Pages 165 to 173

Chapter XIII

Diseases of the Silkworm. — Rapid progress of, in France — Beginning of the industry there — Climax of its prosperity — Diagram of silk harvests from 1821 to 1881 — Decadence — Pebrine in Lombardy — The hunt for undiseased eggs — Every country smitten, except Japan — A wail of anguish from France- — Pasteur employed — His success in probing the secrets of disease — Flacherie in France — Pasteur's microscope the conqueror — Something about pebrine — Experiments — Proved to be both hereditary and contagious — Method of detection — Chinese ideas on the subject — Precautions formerly taken in France — Anecdote of Aries — No known cure lor pebrine, but it can be warded off — Flacherie CONTENTS. VII — Pasteur's researches — Microscope again employed — Lady Claud Hamilton's translation of Pasteur's labours recommended — Mr. John Giiffitt on flacherie — Is an accidental, but contagious disease- — His experiments — Lessons inculcated — Pasteur's views summarised — Causes of flacherie— Dissection of the chrysalis and explanation losts for detecting the disease — Muscardine — Its symptoms — Is owing to a parasitic plant — Cause and prevention Pages 174 to 198

Chapter XIV

Use of the Microscope in Sericulture. — Early history of the instrument- Microscope recommended — Method of procedure — An examination for pebrine — Difference between corpuscles and fat globules — Observations should be registered — Method of counting the corpuscles on a disc — Inspecting for reproduction — Pasteur's advice to silk-farmers — Care and cleanliness of the apparatus . . . . . . Pages 199 to 208

Chapter XV

Agriculture around Smyrna. — The Scottish farmer — Features of Asia Minor — Vilayet of A'idin — The soil — Its products — German vineyards near Koukloudjah — Mr. Griffitt of Bournabat — Statistics by His Excellency Hussein Hilmi Effeudi — His Excellency Kemal Bey, governor of Rhodes — Means of irrigation — Halka Bounar, or Diana's Bath — Fountains of Nymphio — Field labour — Vagabonds from Greek islands — Ionian cultivators — Amusing letter of a pauper — The mendicant element — Cost of labour — Value of land — Vine a source of wtalth — Turkish money — Brigandage curbed by the late governor, His Excellency Hadji Nachid Pasha — Advance in land value at Chobanissa — Defiance of a landowner by Greeks — Advantages to agriculturists in the vilayet of Aidin Pages 209 to 221

Chapter XVI

Fraudulent Insurers in Smyrna. — An Italian apophthegm — The three scourges of the Levant— Midnight fires — Inflammability of the generality of the native buildings — The slinking incendiary — Enthusiasm for insuring — Losses far exceed the premiums — Difficulty of knowing the honest man from the rascal — Few fires where not insured — Houses bought to be burnt — Native doctor arrested for fire-raising and condemned — Efficient fire-brigade maintained solely by British insurance companies — -Precautions against fire — Curious marine insurance dispute — An impudent claim by a Smyrna shopkeeper — Three shelves of a store magnified into three floors of a warehouse — A consular court wigged by a Constantinople judge . . . . Pages 222 to CONTENTS. VIII

Chapter XVII

The Smyrna and Aidin Railway. — Introduction— Features of first twenty miles — Stations open to all loafers and beggars — Haunts for the thirsty, and hunting-groMnds for pedlars — Ruins of Metropolis near Turbali — Gallessium mountains — M. Fontrier — Pcgasæan lake — Kelchie Kaleh — Legend — River Cayster — Ayasouluk, the station for Ephesus — Remains of aqueduct — Stork's nests — A feverish locality — The Byzantine castle— Mr. Woods, a former excavator at Ephesus — Region of bloom and floral splendour — Train slides down an incline of eight miles, with wheels in iron shoes — The fig country — Azizieh — Windings of the Mæander — Ruins of Magnesia — River Lethe— Poppies grown for opium — Aidin a good market — Omurlu — -Kiosk — Figs, (dives, and vines everywhere — Valonia oak at Chifte Kiosk — Sultan Hissar, the binh-place of Strabo — Atche and Nazli — Kuyujak — Horsunlee, beyond the fruit region —Barley everywhere — Mount Cadmus — Seraikeuy, the present terminus of the line — Absence, except at one place, of modern agricultural machinery — Get lodgings in a house belonging to the railway company Pages 230 to 241

Chapter XVIII

Hierapolis and Laodicea.— Seraikeuy village — Fare provided without notice by the Greek landlady — House clean and comfortable — No nocturnal insects — Awakened before dawn by the crowing of countless cocks, and braying of innumerable donkeys — We prepare to ride forth, a party of six — Incidents by the way — Colony of Bulgarians — Ruins of Hierapolis, much exaggerated as to splendour — Rifled tombs — Violated sarcophagi — Solid marble lake — Impressiveness of the scene — Plateau seemingly carved out of the side of the Messogis mountains — The white terraces — Cascades — A weird, wild landscape, difficult to describe — The hot pool — Theatre — Traces of the destructive Goth — Mutilated marble frieze — View from tbe theatre — The colonnade — The gymnasium — The hot-water conduits — Vast extent of the lime incrustations — Ground much fissured by earthquakes — Tribe of Turkoman nomads — Offer scraps of worthless potsherds — Not dangerous, but unsavoury — Hot pool inviting f,.r abath — Oleanders and blossoming pomegranates around — Ride resumed to north-west — Laodicea — Utter desolation — Broken or empty sarcophagi tumbled about all over the hill of approach — Fields of barley, and reapers at work — Discovery of a Greek inscription — The return . . . .

Pages 242 to CONTENTS. IX CHAPTEK XIX. The Bournabat Silk Harvest of 1885. — Unprecedented success — Smyrna formerly a silk-producer— Extinction of the industry — Mr. Griffitt's efforts at revival — Distribution of eggs — Termsof distribution- — Partnership arrangements — Average educations — Breeds of silkworm — Their regeneration — Silk for fishing-nets — Story of a yellow race — The hybrid race — Nun, or negro worms — Weights of the four races — Beginning of an incubation — Feeding — Visiting adjoining sericulturists — Space necessary for educating one-and-a-half ounces of eggs — Scarcity of leaves for food — Termination of feeding — Bringing in the brushwood — Spinning the cocoons — Reeling live cocoons — Steaming — Stringing for reproduction — Issue of moths — Pioneer worms and moths— Result of the harvest — Rewards to peasant educators — Obligation of Turkish Government to Mr. Griffitt Pages 257 to 268

Chapter XX

Smyrna to Constantinople. — Steamer arrangements — Beginning of the voyage — Traits of character — An astronomical party — Island of Mitylene — Splendour of the morning sky-tints — The Troad — Tenedos Island — Beshika Bay — Entrance to the Dardanelles — Particulars of the forts and guns — Chanak — The castles of the Dardanelles, Chanak- Kalesi, and Kilid-bahr — The pottery agent — Strait of Abydos, where celebrated swimmers crossed the Hellespont — Prevalence of cultivation — Gallipoli — Sea of Marmora — Thracian Chersonesus — -Rodosto — The nine Prinkipos islands — Approach to Constantinople — The buildings — Mosque of St. Sophia — Galata — Topkhane — Pera — The Bosphorus and its beauties— The Golden Horn Pages 269 to 279

Chapter XXI

Constantinople. — Difficulty of deciding where to go first — Suggestions — The guide and bis fee — List of objects of interest — Probable position of the steamer — Commencement of sight-seeing — The mosque of St. Sophia — Other mosques — The hippodrome and its obelisks — Bronze column from Ephesus — Cisterns of Philoxenus — The Seven Towers — Museum of costumes — Museum of Antiquities — The great bazaars — Genoese watch-tower — View from the summit — The whole a gorgeous panorama — Topkhane — Galata — Pera — Stamboul — Conclusion Pages 280 to 293

Chapter XXII

German Competition in the East. — Activity of travellers — German consuls more useful than English — Prince Bismarck always un the watch — X CONTENTS Technical education required by British lads — Germans good linguists — Advantage this confers in Asia Minor — German humours the country buyer — German travellers riding forth — Neglect by British Govern ment of their subjects in Turkey — Opposite policy of the Germans — ■ Waste of British money on ambassadorial and consular buildings and gardens — Economy iu this respect of the Germans- — Their liberality in grants for educational purposes — The German Deaconesses Institu tion — Good results — German school and American college at Pera, and on the Bosphorus — British children wholly dependent on Americans, Germans, and Greeks for their education — Plethoric officials indulged by British Government, and education starved Pages 294 to 299

Chapter XXIII

The Bosphorus. — A jparty made up to pic-nic on — Extent of current, always flowing westwards — Curves and promontories — Beginning of tbe voyage at the Bridge of Boats over the Golden Horn — Mosques seen from the starting-point — -Turkish captains give orders in English — The marble-fronted palaces — Scene of the assassination of Abdul Aziz — Leander's tower — Skutari — Kadikeui — Moda Bay — Dolma Bagtche palace — Cheraghan palace — Sultan's present kiosk — The Selamlik, or weekly visit of the Sultan to a mosque — Ortakeuy mosque — Pretty scenes — Imperial kiosk of white marble — Steamer zig-zagging across the strait — Rumli and Anadolu Hissar — A historic spot — Strong current — Roberts' College — Source of Bulgarian education and love of liberty — Therapia Bay — Ambassador's houses — Sir Henry Drummond Wolff and his mission — Buyukde're Bay — The Black Sea — Therapia— Historic plane-tree — Turkoman gypsies — Return to Constantinople Pages 300 to 315

Chapter XXIV

Constantinople to Dede Agatch and Smyrna.— Tillage of Eyob— Ships of war— Sweet Waters of Europe— Arrival at Eyob (Job)— Relics preserved in the mosque, but no admission for any Christian— Prince of Wales said to have been refused entrance — View from top of cemetery very fine— Tombs unattractive— Drinking-troughs for dogs — Reproduction of diaries on board— Departure from Constantinople— Sea of Marmora — Rodosto — Gallipoli— Divine service on board— Through tho Dardanelles— Imbros— Samothraki— Arrival atDtSde' Agatch, Roumelia —Terminus of railway to the Danube— Roadstead wholly exposed Story about the railway and Russian plotting — Russian designs — No attractions about Dede Agatch— Believed to be unhealthy— Daubers and scribblers at work— Thaso isle— Departure— Island of Mitylene or Lesbos — Khios— Arrival at Smyrna . . . . Pages 316 to CONTENTS. XI

Chapter XXV

Smyrna and its Neighbourhood. — Statistics — How to see the town — Difficulties — Strings of loaded camels — Street scenes — Objects of interest — Dancing dervishes — Distant objects of interest, such as the Apocalyptic churches — Villages around Smyrna — Cordelio — Sanjak Kalissi — -Agamemnou's Baths — Boudjah- — Bournabat — Koukloudjah — Diana's Bath — Something about the last four places — Attractions — " Jacob's well " — Healthful situations — Anecdote about three Jewish smokers — Picturesque streets and bazaars — -Bournabat the focus of the regenerated silk industry — -Lake of Tantalus — Scene of the punishment of the son of Jupiter and Pluto — Koukloudjah formerly a favourite resort for Smyrna merchants— The brigand Catterdjee Janni and his victim — Charming view from the village — Kiatib Oglu, a former governor of Smyrna — His tragic fate — Subject of a Turkish ballad — Bath of Diana claimed to be adjoining the birth-place of Homer — Statue of goddess found in the pool — Very feverish neighbourhood — Something about Smyrna — Its origin — Sufferings from earthquakes — Laughable anecdote — Scene of Polycarp's martyrdom — Deaconesses Institution Pages 327 to 339

Chapter XXVI

Brigandage in Asia Minor. — Probable origin — Suppression of the Janissaries in 1826 — Close of Crimean war in 1856 — Sultan Mahmoud — Mahomet Ali — Righeb Pasha — Tchapan Oglu — Salomon Alteras — Rebellions against the Turks — Attack on the Janissaries — Abdul Mijid — Brigandage in the Smyrna district — Greek raiders— Ziebecs — Different systems of attack — Father and daughter seized — Armenian gentleman captured — Turkish farmer pounced upon — Captain Andrea — Thrilling anecdote of crime — Seizure of opium by brigands — The comedy of brigandage — Osman using the rod of correction — Capture of a band of thirteen cut-throats — Two diabolical wretches — Theft of two Turkish girls — Combination of brigands for a stroke of business — Capture of thirty well-known Smyrna merchants — Ransomed for £1800 — Ultimate surrender of the brigands — Received by the governor and pardoned — Transformed into vigilant policemen — Their infant virtue fails — They black-mail the peasantry under cover of their uniform — The Procureur-General — The ruffians ordered back to Smyrna — Their arrest in the konak — A free fight — Imprisonment — General Osman Pasha — The barracks — Teufik Bey — An album of brigands — How is the evil to be rooted out ? . . .. Pages 340 to CONTENTS. XII

Chapter XXVII

The Sites of the Apocalyptic Churches. Ephesus (1). Former visitors to — Situation — Word-picture of — Its ancient features — Temple of Diana — Building and dimensions of— Mount Prion — Legends regarding— Other buildings — Seat of the "Black Art" — Destruction of city and temple — etc. Smyrna (2). Early history — Modern volcanic convulsions — Polycarp — Rev. Dr. Norman Macleod — -Statistics of — Features of streets — Difficulty of getting about — etc. Pergamos (3). Situation — Oridn — Library — Invention of parchment — Extensive ruins ■ — Nautical amphitheatre. Thyatira (4). Limited ancient history — Fame for dyeing — Theatre of stirring scenes — Scantiness of ancient remains — The modern town — Itinerary. Sardis (5). Position — Defective ancient history — Monarchs — Tomb of Alyattes— Crœsus — Lydian pursuits — Overthrow — Extinction.

Philadelphia (6). Beauty of approach to — Statistics — Estimating distances — Origin — Paucity of ancient remains — Historical account — Tlie modern town — Long Christian record — Hospitality of the people — Anecdote of silk-farming — Story of a reaping-machine. Laodicea (7). Directions for reaching — Journey via Hierapolis — Pictures of Hierapolis — Ancient Laodicea — Decline and fall — Present appearance — A personal experience — Conclusion Pages 358 to 394

Chapter XXVIII

Smyrna to Cape Matapan. — Retrospect of past four months — Friendly acquisitions — "Little Earthquake"— How she got the name— Greek Archipelago— Sunrise over Khios — Psara islands — A scene of blood CONTENTS. XIII there in 1824 — Negropont and Andros— Doro Channel— Macro Nisi and Zea islands— The Zea Channel— Distant isles— St. Georgio, Belo Poulo, aud Karavi islands— Capes Malea and Matapan — Night of gloom and heat— Lacedæmonia — Argument about Spartan austerity — Noble ladies going on tbe stage— Inconvenient Spartan custom towards bachelors — The Peloponnesian Peninsula— Islands of Cervi and Cerigo — Last glimpse of Greece— Probable origin of the name " Morea" Pages 395 to 405

Chapter XXIX

Cape Matapan to Gibraltar. — From calm to storm — Out us the Ægean Sea — Broadest part of the Mediterranean — Account in rhyme of a formerly encountered storm there— An amiable Scotch lady — Malta — Outlying islands of Goza and Comino — Something about the Maltese group — Our departure — Cape Bon, Africa — Tunis and. Carthage — Volcanic islands of Zembra and Zembretta — The Galita group — Coral and sponge fisheries — Octopus-catching — Reference to Victor Hugo's 'Toilers of the Sea' — Variety of scenery — Profound depth of the sea — Coast of Spain — Cape de Gata — Almeria, once a nest of pirates — Mountains of Granada — Towns of Balerma and Elena, Adra Motril, and Torrox — Malaga and its twinkling hghts — Something about it — People fond of smuggling — Gibraltar before dawn — Sketchers at work — Coaling amidst a gale of wind — Remarks about " the rock " and its history — Our departure .. .. . . Pages 406 to 424

Chapter XXX

Gibraltar to Liverpool. — Gibraltar from the bay — Varying opinions as to the rock among the passengers — O'Hara's tower — Result of the argument — Algeciras — Picturesque situation — The steam ferry — A bit of history — Spain and Morocco — Fortress of Ceuta — Apes' Hill — "A wilderness of monkeys " — Supposed subterranean passage under the sirait — Peregil island — Outpost3 of the Moors — Comparison between Gibraltar and Ceuta — Cape Spartel, Morocco — Iu the Atlantic Ocean — Trafalgar — Reference to Nelson's great sea-fight — Cadiz — Byron's lines on the ladies thereof— Cape St. Vincent — Coast of Portugal — Approach to Lisbon — Cintra — Oporto — Vigo Bay, Spain — Cape Finisterre— Mount Tremuso— The Camarinas — Cape Villano — Last glimpse of Finisterre — Sunset in the Bay of Biscay — Fog and danger — Steam-whistle and bell going — Ushant — Scilly islands — Land's End — Cape Clear — St. George's Channel — South Stack — Anglesea— The pilot — - Arrival at Liverpool Pages 425 to 443 Epilogue Page ) LIST OF THE ILLUSTRATIONS.

Chapters. No. Subjects. Photos, j Sketches. Page. I. II. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 Mouth of the Tagus . . . . . Galita Islands ...... Pantellaria, an Italian Volcanic Island . Maltese Lady in Walking-Attire Mount Elias, Greece . . . . . Cerigo Island, Greece .... Island of Candia, a distant View Hermit's Chapel, Hut, and Grotto, Malea . Island of Karavi ..... Approach to the Greek Island Syra from S.E. Agamemnon's Baths, Bay of Smyrna First Glimpse of Smyrna .... Rock-hewn Statue of Niobe, near Magnesia. Encampment of Camels, Plain near Sardis Method of pruning the Mulberry during four Years ...... Rock B as-Relief of Sesostris or Rameses II. The Incubator, for hatching Silkworms Knife for shredding Mulberry Leaves Pierced-Paper Silkworm Tray Frame on which Silkworms are eed . "Syrian Silk-Reeler at Work Size and Appearance of the Average Silkworm during _ .

First Eight Days . ditto ditto Second Age . ditto ditto Third Age . ditto ditto Fourth Age . ditto ditto Last Age The Silkworm mounting to spin . Arranging Brushwood for spinning Silkworms ....... Male and Female Cocoons strung for Reproduction ...... Female Moth pinned to Cloth for Examination ........ Appearance presented by a Silkworm afflicted with " Pebrine " . Diagram showing highly corpusculous Graine s. s. s. 9 17 18 24 33 34 35 37 38 40 44 45 58 59 III. p. s. s. s. s. s. s. s. s. s. s. IV. V. VI. VII. 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 s. s. s. s. s. s. s. 71 79 8S 90 90 93 96 IX. 23 21 25 26 27 28 s. s. s. s. s. s. 117 119 120 122 124 124 29 s. 127 XI._ s. 149 30 XIII. 31 s. 159 32 s. s. 180 1SO LIST OF THE ILLUSTRATIONS. XV Chapters. Ko. Subjects. Photos. Sketches. Page. XIV. XV. XVI. XVII. XVIII.

XIX XX. 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 40 47 4S 49 50 51 52 53 Diagram showing young Corpuscles about to develop ....... Segment of a Corpusculous Worm magnified A Silkworm dead of " Flacherie " The Vibriones of "Flacherie" magnified . Ferments from Stomach of Chrysalis with "Flacherie" ...... A dissected Chrysalis showing Internal Organs " Botrytis Bassiana," or Silkworm Mildew, magnified Method of counting Corpuscles on the Microscope Field Village or Koukloudjah by Moonlight Marble-fronted Houses, Smyrna . Kelchte Kaleh, or Goat's Castle Ayasouluk, near Ephesus .... Windings of the River Mæander and Mount Cadmus ....... Turkish Dragoman and Guard Riding forth before Dawn .... Bulgarian Farmer and Boy Hierapolis, as seen from Laodicea Greek Copper Brazier for heating Rooms . Picking and shredding Mulberry Leaves for early Feeding .....

Female Moths of white and yellow Races Entrance to the Dardanelles from Mediterranean ....... Town op Gallipoli, North-East End of Dardanelles ...... Islands of Marmora and Araplar, Sea of Marmora The Sea of Marmora and Princes Islands . Bridge of Boats, connecting Stamboul and Galata, Constantinople .... Entrance to Golden Horn, as seen from Pera, Constantinople .... Type of the Constantinople Jewish Guide The Hippodrome, St. Sophia, and Obelisk, Constantinople. Old Seraglio Enclosure, Skutari in Distance, Constantinople ...... Moda Bay, near Skutari, Asiatic Side of Bosphorus ....... Mosques illuminated during Ramizan, Constantinople . • • Imperial Kiosk of White Marble, on the Bosphorus Narrows of Bosphorus, looking towards the Black Sea ...... Narrows of Bosphorus, looking towards Constantinople ......