On Foot through Wharfedale: descriptive & historical notes of the towns and villages of Upper & Lower Wharfedale

Preface

. §HE great majority of visitors to Ilkley, Bolton Priory and AA'oods, after feasting their eyes upon the rural beauty and loveliness which there abound, seem to have a notion that they have seen all the beauties which AVharfedale possesses. It is with a desire to remove that impression, and to bring other less known but equally delightful parts of this most favoured valley under notice, that these pages have been written. But it is only fair to explain that, when the task was undertaken, the intention was to make the book a cheap and popular guide merely ; and in the style common to that class of literature the volume has been written. The district is so rich in historical associations, however, and there was forthcoming such a superabundance of interesting material, that it was found to be impossible to carry out the original idea without adopting one of two alternatives : either to leave out the descriptive matter altogether, or eliminate much vi.

PREFACE.

. that would interest both the student of history and the antiquarian. At the earnest request of those who were zealous of the attractions of their native dale, it was decided to adopt neither of these alternatives, but to abandon the original idea of publishing a smaller volume, utilise all the historical facts collated, preserve intact the descriptive portions, and publish in the present form. Had the author known that the idea of bringing out a modest guide-book would ultimately result in the publica tion of a more pretentious work, he would not have committed himself to a task which he feels he has but inefficiently and indifferently discharged. Wharfedale, in common with other pleasure grounds of England, is now easily reached — some parts of it more easily than others ; and there are few more delightful places where such copious draughts of health, in the form of unsullied sunshine and untainted breezes, can be enjoyed as on its open hills and extensive moorlands, in its free glades and green meadows.

Nature, so bounti ful in her gifts to the northern part of our isle, seems here to have lavished all her varied charms. Situations of the most picturesque description and objects of antiquarian and historic interest everywhere abound ; and yet, comparatively few people, who profess a full knowledge of the district, have ever been higher up the dale than Barden, or lower than Ilkley.

PREFACE.

. VII This circumstance may, in some measure, be ac counted for by the absence of railway communication to the upper and certain parts of the lower reaches of the AVharfe. But if those who now confine their ramblings in AVharfedale to the more accessible portions had only a truer conception of the beauties and interesting histori cal associations possessed by and clinging around some of the less frequented parts, they would certainly extend their wanderings. The author has made a feeble effort to describe the neglected places and to furnish a brief account of the associations connecting them with that great and mighty period of our history when the struggles of the people were at their height and freedom was bursting from its swaddling clothes. In conclusion, the author wishes to thank all those who have assisted him in any way, either by giving him the advantage of their own personal knowledge of the district, or by the loan of rare works and MSS. in their possession.

Particularly are his thanks due to the Rev. S. R. Anderson, vicar of Otley ; Mr. J. A. Bland, Burnsall ; Mr. Clough, Steeton ; Mrs. Cockcroft, Otley ; the late Mrs. Fox, Horsforth ; Mr. E. Smith, Addingham, &c, &c. He also desires to state that for certain "tales tradition ary," and other interesting matters relative to the upper portion of the dale, he is indebted to Dr. AA'hitaker, and the respective authors of "Stories and Chronicles of the

PREFACE.

. Craven Dales" and "Rambles in Upper AATiarfedale." From these and other sources, together with the advan tages enjoyed by a personal acquaintance with the greater part of the district, as well as careful inquiry, the author hopes he has presented to the readers that amount of reliable information which a stranger ought to possess in order to thoroughly appreciate and enjoy his surroundings. INDEX. PAGE. A A " Bibacious Prelate " at Otley 36 A " benevolence " of Charles 1. 104 A Clerical Wag 222 A Curiously-Shaped Tree 192 A Dancing Rector 232 A List of Vicars of Otley 61 A Memorable Flood 96 A Threshfield Miller and the Barguest 213 Abbey Life at Bolton 179 Adani De Myddleton 131 Addingham Village 163 Riot 165 Advantages of Pedestrianism... 1 Adventure with a Barguest 263 African Explorer, An : Joseph Ritchie 93 Agricultural Society, Wharfedale 82 Airey, Tom 265 Alfred Brown drowned in crossing Otley Bridge 97 Alfred the Great retains Otley as a Royal Manor 33 Almescliffe Crags 9 Amusements in Old Otley 72 AnArchbishop'spower questioned and finally upheld 70 PAGE.

An Ancient Feud 161 Ancient Crosses 128 Ancient Tablets in Otley Church 54 Ancient Chartered Fairs and Markets at Otley 41 Ancient Laws and Customs ... 68 Ancient Saxon Parish of Otley 37 Anecdotes ofa Country Theatre 266 Angling Information 24 Antiquity of Ilkley 119 Antoninus 123 Appletreewick 205 ,, Fair 206 ,, Mines 210 Approaches to Wharfedale 5 Apronful of Stones 147 Arncliffe 248 ,, Church 248 Arthington Zg and Otley Railway 30 Church 24 Hall 24 ,, Junction 7 Nunnery 23 ,, Viaduct 24 Assembly Room, Otlev 72 Ashfield House 108 Askwith Village m X INDEX. PAGE, Athelstan presents Otley to the Archbishop of York 34 Athelwold, Supposed Murder of, at Harewood n Austby — High and Low 149 B Baal's Hill 139 Backstone Beck 147 Badger- Baiting 261 " Bailey's Fiddle" 64 Barden Lodge 68 ,, Chapel 199 ,, Tower 197 Barguest, The, and the Threshfield Miller 213 Barkers of Otley, and the Old Hall 75 Bastow Wood 279 Beamsley 159 ,, Beacon 160 Beauties of Bolton, The 191 Beckermonds 251 Bells and Bell-ringers 63 Ben Rhydding 118 Bibaeious Prelate at Otley 36 Billy Blakey's Adventure with a Barguest .'. 263 Black Foss Waterfall 161 Bland Gill 210 Bland, J. A 218 Bolton Abbey 172 Borough of Otley 38 Boy of Egremond, The... 178 & 193 Braith Gill 269 Bramhope Donative Chapel ... 28 ,, New Church 29 ,, meaning of the name 28 ,, Tunnel 7 Village 28 Bramhope Tunnel Monument at Otley 59 Bridge, Otley 96 Bridge, The, Ilkley 148 British or Roman Camp 139 Buckden 253 Bull-Baiting 261 Burley in PAGE.

Burley Church 112 „ Great Pudding 113 Lecture Hall 112 ,, Mills in Burley-Woodhead 113 Burnsall 218 ,, Angling Club 219 ,, Church 221 ,, Grammar School 222 ,, May-Pole 219 & 228 C Camden'sdescriptionoftheDale 250 Caley Hall 29 ,, Deer Park 29 Castleberg and Counterhills ... 122 Castle Hill, Ilkley 123 Caverns at Stump Cross 214 Cemeteryat Otley 66 Charities at Otley 64 Chevin 43 Christian Brethren in Otley 87 Church Improvements at Otley, 1867 S2 Church Restoration at Otley, 1851 51 Claro, Wapentake of 126 ClaphamsandMauleverers, The 159 Clifford, Lady Anne 198 Cliffords, The 196 Clock-Dressing 263 Coaching Days 43 Coaching Days at Harewood... 9 Congregationalism in Otley 86 Coniston Village 256 ,, ChapelofEase 256 ,, Pie 256 Conservative Club, Otley... 76 & 89 Conversion of the Saxon King, Edwin 32 Court Houses of Otley : Past and Present 72 Cow and Calf Rocks 136 Crag Gill 253 Crag Moss 249 Crag Tarn 140 Craiglands INDEX.

XI PAGE. F Fairfax, Ancient Seat of Charles 113 ,, Sir Thomas 114 , , The Hero of the Commonwealth 115 Falls of the Wharfe 233 Farnley, Collection of Turner's Paintings 104 Farnley, The Seat of the Ancient Fawkeses 100 Favourite Walks 148 Fawkes Family, The 100 Ferry 118 Flood, A Memorable 96 Funeral Dirges 213 G Gallows Hill 67 Garnett, Rev. Richard, linguist 91 Gascoigne, Lord Chief Justice 8 Gawthorpe Hall 15 General Features of the Dale... 3 Ghaistrill Force and Strid 270 Gill Beck and Waterfall 203 Glimpses of Leathley, Washburn, &c 26 God's Penny 85 Grammar School at Otley 65 Grassington 258 Grassington Theatre 265 Grassington's Worthies 265 Grass Wood 271 ,, Fortress 272 Great Pudding Festival at Burley 113 Green Field Beck 250 Greenholme Mills 111 Gregory the Great and the Province of Deira 32 Grey Palmer, Legend of the ... 20 Grove House, Otley 76 Goddess Nymph 124 "Good Old Times," so-called... 68 Gordale of Appletreewick, The 210 Guild at Otley 41 Gurling Trough 256 Guye Fawkes 102 PAGE.

Craven, Sir William 208 CreskeldHall 29 Cringles 166 Cromwell's Sword, Hat, & Watch 103 Cucking Stool 70 Culpepper, Manor of 116 Curious Hiring Customs 83 Curiously-Shaped Tree, A 192 Customs and Laws — Ancient... 68 Cutler, Sir John 17 D Danfield 47 Deep Dale 251 Deer Park at Bolton 200 Denton Hall 117 Denton, the Home of the Fairfaxes 114 Desolation, The Valley of 199 Devil's Bridge, Legend of the... 229 Devonshire Arms, Bolton Bridge 170 Dew Bottom Scar 278 Dibb Scar and Glen 279 Directions to Visitors 201 Discovery ofa supposed Roman Coffin 52 Discovery of evidences of Saxon Architecture 52 Dob Park 68 Domesday Book 12 Donkey Riding 137 Douk Cave 256 Dove Cove 256 Downer, Rev. A. C 131 Dowka- Bottom Cave 248 Druid's Altar, The 237 Drygill 214 Ducking Stool :.... 69 Duchess of St. Alban's at Otley 73 & 267 E Eagle's Rock, The 249 Earl of Straftord and Harewood 16 Edmund Kean 265 Educational Facilities in Otley 87 Emily Norton 189 Eujene Aram INDEX.

XII PAGE. Ilkley Hotels 134 Hydropathic Establishments 134 Invalid Couch 137 Past and Present 119 Population of 126 Primitive Methodist Chapel 134 Roman Catholic Church 133 Schools 134 Society of Friends 134 S. Margaret's 132 the Malvern of the North 118 Wells 140 Wells House 118 ,, Wesleyan Chapel 133 Industries of Otley — Past and Present 39 J Jackson, William Lawies 91 Job Senior 141 John Dobson 120 John Hope Shaw 92 John Wesley in Otley 85 Joseph Ritchie, the African Explorer 93 Joseph Vickers 95 Joshua Hart, late vicar of Otley 51 K Kettlewell 254 KetUewelldale 239 Kilnsey 238 ,, Crag 238 ,, Nan 240 Kirk Gill 251 Kyme, Wm. De Percy 125 L Langstrothdale 251 ,, Chase 250 Lanshawe Delves 139 Laws and Customs — Ancient... 68 Leathley Church 205 ,, Village 105 Legend of Simon Amanghem... 205 Legends of Otley Bells 62 PAGE.

H Halton Gill and Fell 249 Harewood Arms 9 ,, Castle 17 Church 13 ,, House 16 ,, Village 8 ,, in the Old Coaching Days 9 Harriet Mellon 73 & 267 Hartington Seat 19° Hartlington 216 Hart, The late Rev. Joshua ... 51 Hawkswick 247 Hawksworths, The, of Hawksworth 100 Hebden — Past and Present 225 Heber's Ghyll 148 Hebers, The 216 Helen's (St.) WeU 224 Henry Bowett, the ' ' bibacious prelate" 36 Henry Lascelles, 2nd Earl Harewood 18 Hero of the Commonwealth, The 115 Hesleden Beck 249 Hints to the Pedestrian 42 Hiring Customs 83 History of Otley 31 Holm Terrace 172 Horse's Head 249 Hotels in Ilkley 134 House for Lepers at OUey 41 Howber Hill 160 Howgill 204 Hubberholme Village & Church 252 Hunting Clergyman, A 77 Hunting Tower 140 Hydropathic Establishments ... 134 I Ilkley Bridge 148 ,, Cemetery 148 Church 128 „ Congregational Church 133 „ Crosses INDEX.

XIII PAGE. LegendoftheApronfulofStones 147 Legend of the Devil's Bridge... 229 Legend of the Grey Palmer ... 20 Legend of the White Horse of Wharfedale 194 LeperHouse or Hospital at Otley 41 Liberal Club, Otley 89 Lindleys and Palmes, The, of Lindley 54 Linguist, A Local 91 Linton 232 Church 232 Hospital 234 Mill 234 Littondale 241 Local Coinage or Tokens 39 Long Addingham 163 LordChief Justice Gascoigne... 8 Lord Milton 18 Loup Scar 224 Lower Waterfall, The 199 Lud Stream 192 Lythe, Thc 227 M Malger C. Vavasour, Sir 109 "Malvern of the North," Ilkley, The 118 Manor House, Ilkley 121 Manufacture of Valentines, &c. , at Otley 39 Manufacture of Printing Machines at Otley 39 Marston Moor 169 MauleverersandClaphams, The 159 May-Day Festivities at Otley ... 78 Mechanics' Institute, Otley 88 Meet! ng ot the Waters 192 Mellon, Harriett (Duchess of St. Albans) 73X267 Memorable Election Contest... 18 Memorable Flood, A 96 Menston Old Hall 113 ,, the Ancient Seat of Charles Fairfax 113 Methodism in Otley 86 Methodist New Connexion in Otley S6 PAGE.

Middleton Chapel 151 Lodge 68 ,, Lodge and the Middletons 149 Middleton Village 151 Milton, Lord 18 Monuments, Tablets, &c, in Otley Church 54 Mountain Cam 250 Murder of Dr. Petty 273 N Nesfield 159 Newall Hall 98 ,, Old Hall 98 New Sunday Schools at Otley 66 Nortons, The 189 O Old Buildings in Otley 72 Oldest Agricultural Show in England 82 Old jManor House, Ilklay 121 Old Pam 235 Old Wells 140 Olicana 122 Opening of the Otley and Arthington Branch Railway 30 Origin of Dancing Round the May-Pole 79 Otley, a* Gift by Athelstan to the Archbishop of York ... 34 , , an Ancient Parliamentary Borough 40 ,, Angling Club 24 , , a Regal Seat of the Saxon Kings 33 , , Bells and their Legends. . . 62 ,, Bridge 96 ,, Celebrities 90 ,, Cemetery 66 ,, Charities 64 ,, Church New Sunday Schools 66 ,, Church, Past and Present 39 „ Drill Hall 89 ,, Free Grammar School ... 65 ,, Hall and thc Barkers 75 ,, History of INDEX.

XIV PAGE. Otley Manor House 37 ,, Market 81 ,, May-Pole 78 ,, Mechanics' Institute 88 ,, Parsonsbeforethejustices 77 ,, retained by Alfred the Great 33 ,, Statutes 84 ,, Theatre 73 ,, Vicars, List of 61 Outershaw Beck and Village ... 250 P Parish Church, Ilkley 128 Palace, Archbishop's, at Otley 35 Palmesand Lindleys, of Lindley 54 Panorama Rocks 144 Parkgate Seat 199 Parson's Well 224 Pelstone Crag 45 Pembroke Seat 196 Picture Gallery, Turner, at Farnley 104 Pike, The 252 Places of Worship at Ilkley ... 134 Plumptons, The 160 Political Clubs in Otley 89 Posforth Gill 199 Pool Bank ,.... 27 ,, Church 27 ,, Village 27 Prince Rupert 169 Priory, Compotus 177 ,, Life 179 ,, The, at Bolton 173 ,, The Foundation 178 Projected Railway 168 R Railway Project 168 Rapidity of the Wharfe 4 Religious Bodies in Otley 86 Residence of the Right Hon. W. E. Forster, M.P 11 1 Restorations of Otley Church in 1851 and 1867 51-52 Rev. Richard Garnett 91 PAGE.

Riding the Stang 261 Rise of the Wharfe 4 & 250 Ritchie, Joseph, the Airican Explorer 93 River Dibb 218 ,, Skirfare 241 Robert Tennant 90 Robert Collyer, his early life ... 156 on Ilkley 152 Rocky Valley 147 Roman Camp 139 ,, Catholic Church in Otley 87 Roman Coins, &c, at Otley... 32 Roads 125 Rombald's Moor 118 Rombald's Moor Hermit 141 Rosemount Nurseries 145 Routes to Wharfedale 5 Rules to be observed by Visitors to Bolton Woods 200 Rupert 169 S Sanctus Bell 51 Saved from Ruffians 217 Scale Park 256 Schools at Ilkley 134 Seal ofthe Commonwealth 103 Semon Convalescent Home ... 144 Severus 123 Shaw, John Hope 92 Shepherd Lord, The 197 Shooting Box 140 Silver Mills, Otley 39 Silver- Plating Trade in Otley... 39 Simon Amanghem, The Legend of 205 Simon's Seat 204 Sir John Cutler 17 Sir Malger C. Vavasour 109 Sir Thomas Fairfax 114 Sir William Craven 208 Skirethorns 336 Skirfare, The 241 Skyrack, Wapentake of 126 Skyreholme INDEX.

XV PAGE. Smith, Rev. B 232 Snowdon, late Rev. J 127 Sporting Clergyman, A 77 Starbotton 254 Stead 113 Stepping Stones 118 St. Helen's Well 224 St Margaret's Church, Ilkley... 132 Strid, The 192 Strike of Bell Ringers 63 Stump Cross Caverns 214 St. Wilfrid's Scar 224 Sulphur Well 192 Superstition 213 T Tennant, Robert 90 The Bridge, Otley 96 ,, Cliffords 193 ,, Druid's Altar 237 ,, Eagle's Rock 249 „ " Fork of Amerdale " 247 ,, Gascoigne Family 13 ,, " Good Old Times " 68 ,, Gordale of Appletreewick 210 ,, Horse's Head 249 , , Lower Waterfall 199 ,, Lythe 227 ,, Meeting of the Waters ... 192 „ Oldest Agricultural Show in England 82 ,, Pike 252 ,, Printing Machine Trade in Otley 39 ,, Shepherd Lord 197 ,, Silver-plating trade in Otley 39 ,, Strid 192 ,, Turner Gallery at Farnley Hall 104 ,, Valley of Desolation 199 ,, Wise Woman of Littondale 241 Theatrical Reminiscences 73 Threshfield 234 ,, Grammar School ... 235 Threshfield Miller and the Barguest 213 Thomas Wentworth, Earl of Strafford 16 PAGE.

Thorpe-sub-Montem 227 Thor's Well 220 Throstle Nest 108 Thwaiteses, The 114 Trade Tokens in Otley 39 Traditionary Lore 138' Traditions of Almscliff. 10 Trailer's Gill, Legend of 211 Turner's Love for Wharfedale 98 Tom Airey 265 Tom Lee 273 U Undistinguishable Brothers Fairfax. The 114 V Vavasour, Sir Malger C 109 Vale of the Wharfe : its attractions 3 Vale of York 9 Valley of Desolation, The 199 Vicars of Otley, List of 61 Vicars, Joseph 95 View from Halton Fell 249 ,, Kilnsey Crag 239 ,, Panorama Rocks... 144 ,, Simon's Seat 204 ,, the Cow and Calf Rocks 133 View of Wharfedale from the Chevin 45 Verbia 124 W Walks 148 Walks about Otley 108 Wapentake of Claro 126 ,, Skyrack 126 Waterfall, Black Foss 161 ,, Gill Beck 203 ,, The Lower 199 Ways of Approach 5 Well Worship 220 Wells House, Ilkley 118 Wentworth, Thomas, Earl of Strafford 16 Wesleyan Methodism in Otley INDEX XVI PAG E. Weston Church no Hall, Past and Present Owners 109 Hall, the Seat of the Vavasours 109 Park 109 Whangby Cheese 257 Wharfedale Agricultural Society 82 ,, from the Chevin ... 42 , , General Features. . . 1 Hotel, Arthington 24 ,, Union Workhouse 99 Wheatley 118 White Doe ot Rylstone 189 ,, Horse of Wharfedale, The Legend of 194 PAGE.

White Wells, Ilkley 140 Wilfrid's (St.) Scar 224 William De Percy Kyme 125 William Lawies Jackson 91 Wilson, Parson, before the Bingley Magistrates 77 Wise Woman of Littondale, The 241 Witchcraft 240 Writ of Quo Warranto 70 Woofa Bank 122 Woodhouse 218 Woollen Trade in Otley 39 Y Yockenthwaite 251 York Minster

Chapter I The Advantages Of Pedestrianism

THE WHARFE. GENERAL FEATURES OF THE DALE. — THE WAYS OF APPROACH. fN occasional period of rest from the business cares and anxieties of every-day life has come to be generally recognised as highly necessary, and any suggestions as to how best to occupy that period ought to be received with welcome. By a considerable proportion of the population, one holiday or period of relaxation only in a year can be snatched from the imperious demands of our business life. There is there fore all the more reason why that should be used to the greatest possible advantage. Mine be the task of pointing out one of the many modes by which it may be health fully and pleasantly spent. As the title will have disclosed, I am an advocate of pedestrianism ; not only because walking is a wholesome and agreeable exercise, but because the pedestrian, in his ramblings, must needs see choice B. bits of sylvan beauty, which are lost to the occupants of the luxurious four-wheel vehicle or the railway car.

Few of us are so constructed or situated that we cannot walk regularly and pleasantly. The highway is open to all ; the grassy slope, the breezy hill top, and the dreamy forest glade are accessible to every class and rank. " Children of wealth or want, to each is given A spot of green and all the blue of heaven." If the fair earth be not quite as free as the wide canopy overhead, we can at all times claim title, pro tempore, to enough of it for the occupancy and free exercise of our feet ; and seeing that there is perhaps no country in the world which so much abounds in pleasant touches of scenery as England, both as regards the appearance of the country, and the dispositions, customs, feelings, and associa tions of its more rustic inhabitants, it is somewhat surprising that there are not more visitors on foot to those remoter and more retired districts of the country, far away from the bustle of our large cities, the dust, and heat, and unhealthi ness, as well as other inconveniences of our manufacturing towns.

But instead of the country, the man of business seems rather to be attracted to the excitement found at sea-side resorts. The fashionable haunt by the coast, however, with its crowds of visitors, its screeching street singers, blatant excursionists, discordant German bands, and burnt cork bedaubed minstrels, is too much a reminder of the town. AVhile not indifferent to the grandeur of the sea, nor disposed to underrate the beneficial effects of its bracing air, I prefer the peaceful quiet of those secluded hills and dales which England possesses in general and Yorkshire in particular. Those who seek such retreats, and make up their minds to rough it for a week or so — in the sense of having to go without some of the luxuries which they have been accustomed to enjoy at home — will return invigorated and refreshed ; and the holiday will have been what it ought to be — a complete change from the ordinary round of work, and a means of thorough recreation from the business duties of every-day life.

In writing thus, I speak of that of which I know. My own experience here comes in as testimony. Never have I found so perfect a remedy against that mental condition, commonly designated " the blues," as a good vigorous walk. Often, when oppressed by that melancholy to which we are at seasons liable, have I grasped hat and stick, and taking a long walk in the open air, succeeded in leaving the enemy far in the rear ; and gradually, as my pace increased and the physical temperature arose, the dark cloud of care has been dispersed by a very flood of cheerful thoughts and suggestions, making that which a few moments before was dark and gloomy, look bright and cheerful. Besides this, walking ministers most effectually to the art of observation, assists thought, and facilitates mental activity. But this is not to be a treatise on pedestrianism, and lest I should be getting wearisome, let me invite the reader to accompany me "On Foot through AVharfedale."

In these days of railway enterprise and competition, travelling is no longer the luxury of the rich, but the common enjoyment of all ; and there are few places of popular resort which are not readily reached. Perhaps, however, none of Yorkshire's famous scenery is at once so varied and so easily accessible as certain parts of Wharfedale. Within half-an-hour's railway ride of Leeds, Bradford, or Harrogate, the vale of the AATiarfe presents a splendid field for the pedestrian. Be he poet, painter, antiquarian, geologist, or botanist, he is sure to find something congenial to his taste. There are numerous lovely spots, teeming with historical associations, or celebrated for their picturesque beauty. Nor is this all, for the river from which the valley takes its name, has long been a favourite resort of the brethren of the cork and fly, being peopled by trout, grayling, dace, barbel, and chub.

" This river," says Dr. Whitaker, " from its various character, successively deep and shallow, still and rapid, is adapted to every species of the finny tribe, which delights in clear and uncontaminated waters. For the Wharfe is beautifully transparent; not, indeed, like the streams which feed the Cumberland lakes, perfectly colour less, but resembling brown crystal, which tinges without obscuring the objects seen through its medium." It is a district whose varied attractions will amply recompense the visitor for any trifling inconvenience (supposing he has not been " broken in" to pedestrianism) which walking excursions may seem to entail, consequent upon the non existence of railway communication to certain parts. I should explain that the AATiarfe rises at the head of Langstrothdale, on the south-east side of the mountain Cam.

The river is said by Camden to take its name from guerf a Saxon word signifying swift. To give an idea of the rapidity with which the river flows, I may say that from its source to Kettlewell — a distance of upwards of ten miles — the fall is at least 595 feet, a fall which is not equalled in the same length by more than two or three English rivers. From its rise, the AVTrarfe pursues a south-eastern course of between sixty and seventy miles, and mixes its waters with the Ouse at Nun-Appleton, and afterwards runs into the Humber. From above Outershaw to the point where it emerges into the great Yorkshire plain a little beyond Harewood, and where Wharfedale proper may be said to terminate, the river traverses no less than three distinct regions, each presenting different features. The upper portion, from Outershaw to Burnsall, torn and upheaved, as it seems to have been, by some tremendous convulsion of nature, presents almost an endless succession of rugged hills and mountain ranges, with beautiful dales lying nestling between — " Where deep and low the hamlets lie, Beneath their little patch of sky And little lot of stars.'' There is the brown heath or bounding fell, and the barren rock above ; and along the bottom of the slope, a narrow strip of the richest grass land, watered by its beck or rivulet, Dn the banks of which there is sometimes planted a little village and a church, with its taper spire pointing heavenwards.

The second or middle portion of the valley, extending from Burnsall Bridge to Bolton Bridge, is profusely wooded, and presents the appearance of an immense park. But this luxuriant display of wood does not conceal the many beauties which here abound, but rather tends to heighten the general picturesque effect. In the lower part, from Bolton Bridge eastward, the valley begins to expand, and the rich herbage of the low lands on each bank of the stream indicate a fruitful soil and a prosperous prosecution of agricultural pursuits. The nearest railway approaches to Wharfedale at present existing are via Arthington, Otley, Burley, and Ilkley in the lower portion of the valley, and via Skipton, Ribblehead, and Aysgarth in the upper portion. AA^ith these means of access, it is not at all difficult to traverse, even to the most ordinary pedestrian ; while to those who are physically unable to walk, or who are chary in making use of " Shanks' galloway," posting is at all times optional with them from almost every point of the dale — Otley, Ilkley, Addingham, Skipton, Bolton Bridge, Burnsall, Grassington, &c. The correct mode of ascending a ladder is to start from the bottom round.

I will adopt that principle in ascending to the source of the Wharfe, and take Harewood as the first round. I do so because the great bulk of visitors approach by one or other of the stations on the joint line of the North-Eastern and Midland Railways, and proceed upwards. In my tour, I will endeavour to treat of the leading points of interest and beauty, as well as the principal historical associations appertaining to each township, village, or hamlet through which we pass. If I can do this without being prosy, so much the better for my readers, and — myself; and if, without being unduly prolix, so much the better also. But I must be allowed to say what I have to say in my own way, or quote from others when and where I please. Those who object to this stipulation may skip me altogether.

Chapter II

' ' And he trudged through Yorkshire dales, Amid the rocks and winding scars." — Wordsworth. HAREWOOD VILLAGE. — THE CHURCH. — LORD CHIEF JUSTICE GASCOIGNE. — EARL STRAFFORD. — ALMESCLIFFE CRAGS. — THE MANSION. — THE CASTLE. — A MEMORABLE ELEC- TION CAMPAIGN. XiE§F the visitor to AATiarfedale approaches per North wgto Eastern Railway, and alights at Arthington Junction $7k^ — as he should do, in order to accompany me on my tour up the dale — a very fairyland will seem to open to him shortly after emerging from that dismal, stifling Bramhope Tunnel ; and on arriving at the station, the ex pansive view which is there obtainable will form a welcome foretaste of the still more beautiful scenes through which he has to go. The sky above is bright and clear, and the " everlasting hills," clad in nature's most exquisite drapery, slope gently to the river side.

A thin grey mist hangs o'er the valley below, where the meandering AVharfe is hurrying on its way. By and bye, and as we proceed on our way, the sun, rising higher in the heavens, will disperse that dewy veil, and the silvery stream will then appear in the full splendour of its varied surroundings. Looking westward, the eye is en tranced with the pretty page in nature's book which is here laid open. To the north, towering high above, like an enormous fortress, stands Almescliffe Crags, while to the south the view is bounded by the ridge of hills which, a little farther west, join the mountain Chevin. Turn where we may, we are confronted with rocks, hills, trees and water ; and these blended into one harmonious whole, seem to im part to the valley a peaceful calm which is truly fascinating.

But we must not linger. Harewood is our destination, and thither we will direct our steps. Pursuing the road leading from the railway station, the Otley and Tadcaster highway is reached. Turning to the right, underneath the railway bridge, the road leads through the village of Arthington to Harewood, a pleasantly situated village, which is an equal distance of eight miles from both Leeds and Harrogate, and about four miles from Arthington station. Harewood, so rich in relics of the past, and whose history is enriched with many noble names, ought to excite more general interest than it does among the thousands who visit the immediate neighbourhood. It was here that the founders of Embsay Priory lived, and it was their daughter who, 33 years later, caused its removal to Bolton. Nor is that alL There are the dismantled castle, the ancient church, the monastic ruins, camps and earthwork, and also the modern princely residence of the present Lord of Harewood.