From Japan to Granada. Sketches of observation and inquiry in a tour round the world 1887-8

Front matter

BY THE SAME AUTHOR. The Creation and the Early Development of Man kind. Octavo, pp. 276, with lithographed frontispiece, $1 50 Contexts.— Primeval Chaos — Light — The Firmament — Sea, and Dry Land — Plant Life — Animal Life — The Geo logical Record — Man — Problem of Civilization — Failure of Primeval Society — Diversity of Tongues — Antiquity of Man — Ancient Civilization in North America. "An admirable work, showing good scholarship, sound judgment, and ability and clearness in the presentation of its views." — Ann Arbor Courier. C. P. PUTNAM'S SONS, New York and London. DIABUTZ. AT KAMAKURA. — Page 49. FROM JAPAN TO GRANADA SKETCHES OF OBSERVATION AND INQUIRY IN A TOUR ROUND THE WORLD IN 1887-8 BY JAMES HENRY CHAPIN, Ph.D. PROFESSOR OF GEOLOGY AND MINERAL*OGY, ST. LAWRENCEUNIVERSITY, AND AUTHOR OF U THE CREATION," "SKETCHES OF THE HUGUENOTS," ETC.

NEW YORK AND LONDON G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS Elje Jiiiklurborlur |)rres COPYRIGHT BY G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS Press of G. P. Putnam's Sons New York ©e&ication TO MY WIFE AND DAUGHTER THIS VOLUME IS AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED

Chapter I. Japan And The Japanese

PAGE Location and Physical Features of Japan — First Impressions — Yokohama — The Jinrikisha — Dress — Domestic Economy — Tea-houses — Baths — Tokio — Native Industries — A Social Call — The Dual Government — Mikado vs. Shogun — The Lordly Yoritomo — The Gallant Yoshitsune — Iyeyasu and his Famous Grandson — A Check upon the Daimios — The Shinto Religion — Feast of the Dead — Buddhism : Its Marked Success — A Feast Day — Nikko — Tombs and Temples — The Great Bell — 333,333 Gods — The Daibutz — Shinto Worship — Decay of Religions — Can the Void be Filled ? — American Responsibility — The Jesuits in Japan — Decrees against Christianity — Recent Progress — The Missionaries — Schools — The Inland Sea — Japanese Art — Political Economy — Hari-kari — Jap vs. Chinaman — Conclusion ........ I

Chapter II. The Flowery Kingdom

First Impressions of China and the Chinese — A Mistaken Estimate — Geography — The Loess Plains — Rivers and Floods — Antiquity of China — Government — The Taiping Rebellion — Succession to the Throne — Isolation of the Chinese — Contrasting Civilizations — Shanghai — The Chinese Quarter — Peking — Splendor vs. Filth — Hong Kong — Morning Market — The Chu-Kiang and Canton — Boat-houses — A Tangle of Streets — Celestial Trades and Industries — The Cat and Dog Market — A Chinese Funeral — Temples and Ancestral Halls — Religions of China — Confucius — Buddhist Doctrines Illustrated — Education and Civil Service — Fatalism — A Different Picture — Extent of China — Population — Military Resources — An Illustration — Patriotism— A Tartar Dynasty — Chinese Statesmen — Li Hung Chang — The Case Briefly Stated . 65 v VI PAGE 114

Chapter III. Visiting

A SULTAN — SINGAPORE. A Morning Ride — Tropical Forest— A Mohammedan Prince— Luxury — Political Economy — Singapore as a Commercial Centre — Motley Population — The Useful Pig— Fruits — The Dorian — Whampoa Garden — Gutta-percha — Tigers — Snakes — How Nature Preserves a Balance 102

Chapter IV. The Isle Of Ceylon

Morning View — Mirage — Point de Galle : Ancient Tarshish (?) — Landing at Colombo — Oriental Hotels — Variety of Races — Dress — A Country Drive — Serene Content — "Up Country by Rail — Charming Scenery — Kandy, the Old Capital — Paredynia : A Bit of Paradise — Bullock Bandy : Native Stage-coach — Rock-cut Temples — A Thrifty Landlord — Gold Dust Dogoba — A Sum in Arithmetic — The Brazen Palace — Sacred Bo-tree — Ancient Reservoirs — Aborigines — General Impression of Ceylon — A Noon-day Scene .

Chapter V. Here And There In India

Southern India — A Ghostly Scene — An Ancient Capital — Temple of Madura — Sacred Animals — A Noted Mission Field — Tanjore — A Strange Procession — The Sacred Bull — Car of Juggernaut — The Seven Pagodas — Madras— Cremation : A Surprise — College Examinations — A Munificent Prince — Golconda — The Sacred City of the Hindoos — Sacred Bulls and Monkeys — Gautama and the Brahmans — Bathing Ghats — Burning the Dead — A Religious Fair — Doing Penance — A Disgusting Exhibition — A Cosily Bath — Votive Offerings — The Asoka Column — Sacred Banyan — Rock-cut Temples — Carlee — A Crowded Street — The Golden Temple — Delhi — Shah Jehan — The Palace and Peacock Throne — An Imposing Mosque — Agra— The Taj Mahal — Hindoo Caste : Its Humiliating Conditions — Bondage of Married Women — Child Marriage — The Sepoy Mutiny : A Tale of Sedition, Cruelty, and Revenge — Cawnpore — Memorial Well — Lucknow — English Tenure of India — Russia and the Mohammedans — The King of Oude — Possibilities — Contrasts and Questions — Poverty and Luxury — Munificence and Tyranny — The Parsees — Towers of Silence — Disposal of the Dead

Chapter VI. Land Of The Pharaohs

PAGE Camel-riding — Streets of Cairo — Historic Spots — Climbing a Pyramid — Surveying the Interior — Curio Dealers — The Sphinx — The Nile — Donkey-boys — A Native Dwelling — Dress — Customs — Tombs — Mummies — Egyptian Temples — Denderah — Ancient Worship — Vandalism — Ancient Sculpture — Luxor and its Neighborhood — First Cataract — Nubian Swimmers — Return to Cairo. The Boulak Museum — Marieite Bey— Interviewing the Pharaohs — Route of the Israelites — The Start — Camping-places — Crossing the Red Sea — The Journey Beyond 194

Chapter VII. Historic Scenes In Palestine

Jerusalem — The Jaffa Road — Valley of Jehoshaphat — Valley of Hinnom — Mount Zion — House of Caiaphas — The Cœnaculum — Church of the Holy Sepulchre — Mosque of Omar — Temple of Solomon — The Brook Kedron — Gelhsemane — Bethesda — Siloam — Bethany — Bethlehem. Jericho — The Dead Sea—Mount Nebo — Death of Moses — Crossing the Jordan — Camp at Gilgal — Capture of Jericho — Rahab's House — Gilgal — John the Baptist — Valley of Achan — Brook Cherith — Wilderness of the Tempta- ■ tion. Mounts Ebal and Gerizim — Jacob's Well — Shechem — Abraham — Abimelech — Rehoboam — The Ten Tribes — The Samaritans — Feast of the Passover. Nazareth — Chapel of Annunciation — House of Mary — The Synagogue — Carmel, Tabor, and Hermon — Plain of Esdraelon — Barak and Deborah— Death of Saul — Gideon's Band—" Cana of Galilee " — Horns of Hattin — Mount of Beatitudes — Battle of the Crusaders — Sea of Galilee — Capernaum and Bethsaida — " Country of the Gadarenes "

Chapter VIII. Zenobia's Capital

— A DESERT JOURNEY. The Start from Damascus — Native Hospitality — Strengthening the Guard — A Deserted Castle — A Speck of War — An Avaricious Sheik — Palmyra : The Tadmor of Genesis — Aurelian — The Captive Queen — Reflections — The Grand Colonnade — Temple of the Sun — Desolation — -Vandalism — Return to Damascus . , . . TAGE

Chapter IX. The Knights Of St

JOHN — MALTA. The Hospitallers— Orders of Knighthood— Malta— St. Paul's Shipwreck — The Knights Templar — Their Growth and Decline — Knights of St. John in Malta— Story of St. Elmo— Siege of 1565 —Heroic Defence— The City of Valetta— The Pantheon — Hospital — Palace — The Armory — Farewell Visit to the Chapel of St. Erasmus 264

Chapter X

A GLANCE AT SICILY AND THE FURTHER SHORE. A Matchless View — The Greek Theatre at Taormina— Ætna — Stromboli — Scylla and Charybdis — Ulysses and Polyphemus — Pæstum — Sybaris : The City of Ease and Luxury — Catania : The Fated City — A Lively Episode — Climbing Ætna — The " Superfluous" Guide — A High Time — At the Crater — Syracuse — Archimedes and other Notables — A Remarkable Echo — The "Ear of Dionysius" — Natural Conservatory — Girghenti — Palermo ..... 278

Chapter XI. On The Borders Of Sahara

— THE BARBARY STATES. Tunis and Carthage — Æneas and Dido — Hannibal and Scipio Africanus — Driving a Bargain — John Howard Payne. Algiers — Striking Scenes — Variety of Population — Remnants of Moorish Art — Piracies of the Algerines — Tribute and Ransom. Natural Divisions of the Country — Tell — Plateau — Desert — Hot Springs — Algerine "Onyx" — Brecciated Marble — Tlemcen — A Tragedy. Morocco — An Absolute Monarchy — Ceutra — Landing at Tangiers — First Impressions — Filthy Streets and Shabby Shops — The Market — Prison — A Slippery Fellow — Battle of Alcazar — Mechinez — Fez — Mohammedan Estimate of Jews and Christians . . . 289

Chapter XII. The Alhambra

— SPAIN — GRANADA. Spanish Indolence — The Lottery — The Bull-Fight — Barbarity and Popularity of the National Sport — Spain a Charming Country — PAGE Notable History — Portugal — Lisbon — Earthquake — Seville — Cor dova — Toledo — Madrid — The Escurial — Burgos and the Cid. The Alhambra — Washington Irving's Account — A Stately Forest — Palace of Charles V. — The Myrtle Court- — Hall of the Am bassadors — Court of ihe Lions — Hall of the Abencerrages — The Twin Sisters — The Infants' Tower — The Captive's Tower — The Generalise — Return to the Alhambra — An Imposing Occasion — The Alhambra by Moonlight — A Morning View — Farewell to Granada ........... 3"

Preface

. " I volume is not intended in any sense, as a substitute for the Guide-book, — but certain leading questions, which the author is often asked, may be briefly answered here. I. At what season is it best to start for a tour round the world ? There is no rule ; but calculations should be made so as to be in the tropics between November first and the close of March. Egypt, though not a tropical country, should be included in the list. 2. Is it best to go east or west ? All may not choose alike. But there is at least this advantage in the westward journey. The traveller reaches Japan — the most entertaining country at present, in the whole list — while yet fresh and full of zeal. Going the other way, he reaches it when travel-worn and perhaps already sated with sight seeing. 3. How much time should be allowed for the trip ?

At least one month each should be set apart for Japan, China, India, Egypt, and Palestine, with a month for the sea passages between. Any little margin that may be left from one country will be easily expended in another. And this allows no time for rest, or for any considerable detours from the ordinary lines of travel, as to Corea, or

PREFACE.

. XII Manilla, or Java, or the interior of China. If the traveller cannot rest and recuperate at sea, he must take more time upon the land, or pass by some things he ought to see. 4. How much does it cost ? That depends much upon individual taste and disposition, as well as on the funds at command. If one is content to travel second-class at sea, — and on some steamers that is very fair, — patronize the cheaper grade of hotels, and eschew luxuries generally, five dollars per day will carry him round. For one who requires the best of every thing — and oftentimes that will not be above criticism, — ten dollars per da>- must be allowed. And if one is given to wine, and would go much into society in the colonies, two to five dollars more should be added. This of course does not include money to be spent for curios and the elegant rubbish of various kinds, such as fall in every tourist's way ; for these a special sum must be set apart, and it will be very astonishing how often that sum will need to be renewed.

There is great temptation to lay in a store of lacquer or Satsuma ware in Japan, of silks in China, gems in Ceylon, embroideries in India, ostrich plumes in Arabia or Eastern Africa, antiques in Egypt, and mosaics in Italy. These things are attractive in themselves, and one cannot but think how the eyes of friends will glisten, when he exhibits them at home. But the experienced and prudent traveller will beware of this. It distends the bags, multiplies the bundles, and may prove a strain upon the integrity when it comes to passing the custom-house.

PREFACE.

. XIII At Damascus, in the tour of Palestine and Syria, a desert journey may be made to Palmyra ; but the traveller should not attempt it, unless he is in good condition and well accustomed to the saddle. The marches are long, the way rough — after leaving the Aleppo road, — and the heat oftentimes oppressive. On arrival at Beirut, there is choice of several journeys : first, via Smyrna to Athens, and Constantinople, and up the Danube, which will take four weeks ; second, direct to Italy in one week, or to Marseilles in ten days ; or third, and best of all, via Malta to Tunis, and through the Barbary States of Africa to Tangiers in Morocco — with a side journey to Biskra or other oasis in the Sahara, — and then by way of Gibraltar, through Spain and Portugal to Paris. This will take six to ten weeks, according to the extent of travel in Northern Africa and the Spanish peninsula, and will be proportionately somewhat more expensive. J. H. C. Meriden, Conn., Dec., 1888. FROM JAPAN TO GRANADA.

Chapter I. Japan And The Japanese

JAPAN is unique among the countries of the world, and the Japanese among the nations. Isolated by nature, and still more by custom, — shut up from all foreign relations and left to their own resources, the Japanese developed phases of society and types of gov ernment at once peculiar and instructive. Whether taken first in order in a tour of the world, or left to the last, no other country and people will recur so often afterwards to the mind of the observing traveller, or furnish material for so many reminiscences of the quaint and curious order. One among the very oldest of the nations, and the most reluctant of all to open its portals to the world, it has already outstripped every other Asiatic country in its eagerness for the institutions of the western world, and exhibits an enterprise which, if well directed, promises to give it a place, at no distant day, beside the leading na- FROM fAPAN TO GRANADA. tions of Europe and America.

Such radical changes in laws and institutions have never before been witnessed in a like brief period of time, and yet peaceful industries have gone on almost without interruption, and the government is more surely established to-day than it ever was before. Japan embraces a series of islands, chiefly volcanic in origin, extending as a sort of adjunct to the Asiatic continent, for a distance of more than fifteen hundred miles from northeast to southwest, and having a mean breadth from east to west of perhaps one hundred miles. There are nine principal islands, and counting all, great and small, barren and fertile, within the space described, the number may be almost indefinitely extended. Some Japanese writers set the number down at two to three thousands; but this includes barren rocks of small extent, which have no other use than to serve as temporary perches for wandering sea-fowl, and which in foggy weather are a constant menace to navigation.

With a base or skeleton of granitic rocks, especially apparent toward the southern portion, these Japanese islands seem to constitute a mountain chain running nearly parallel with several chains in Asia, that extend from the North Sea well toward the Indian Ocean. The base is often, perhaps generally, overlaid with volcanic tufa or conglomerate, and this in turn, except on mountain heights, with deposits of a recent age, largely black, vege table mould, the accumulation of a luxuriant vegetation. Not unfrequently a fresh cutting a few feet in depth, will show two or three deposits of mould, interspaced with layers of an igneous origin, indicating that frequent vol canic outbursts have attended the recent geological history of these islands, as also that the climate must have been most favorable for an abundant plant life.

The coal in Japan is chiefly, if not wholly, of the Tertiary period, and lacks somewhat the compactness and sub stance of coal belonging to the Carboniferous age. The coast of Japan is generally bold and often rugged, conglomerate being the prevailing rock formation. This is cut into sharply defined fiords or bays, not unlike the coast of Norway, but on a smaller scale. The bluffs rise abruptly to greater or less height and are generally crowned with trees, which stand out in sharp relief against the sky, reminding one of the seemingly exaggerated scenes so often pictured on Japanese fabrics of various kinds. Swept on the east by the Kuro Siwo, or gulf stream of the Pacific, bearing tropical waters northward, and on the west by Siberian waters flowing southward, Japan pos sesses an equable, often a delightful, climate ; but the opposing currents make it a breeding-place of storms, and the dreaded cyclone often sweeps away the fruits of patient industry, while the earthquake and volcano are not unfrequent visitants.

A series of earthquake waves at Simoda, in 1854, swept the shore with such fury as to destroy the greater part of the town, together with the shipping at the wharves, and returned to the sea with such tremendous force as to scour out the harbor to the bed rock, so that for years no ship's anchor could be made to hold ; and even as we write, tidings come across the sea that several villages have been overwhelmed by an eruption in one of the northern provinces. There are more than twenty active volcanoes in Japan to-day, while hundreds of old cones and vents scar the islands from one end of the kingdom to the other. But, like the dwellers on the slopes of Ætna and Vesu vius, an eruption is no sooner ended than the natives set to work to repair their broken fortunes and build up their industries anew, as if the like could never occur again.

Such is the nature of man. He sees and accepts the present opportunity, and gives little heed to the chance occurrence that seems so far away. The Japanese form no exception to the rule. The village swept by a typhoon or buried in volcanic ash or cinder is built up again, and the field left one year in desolation will smile again with fruitful harvests, as soon as the debris can be cleared away. The long, lonely passage from San Francisco to Japan, where for nearly three weeks there is neither island, rock, ship, or sail within the range of vision, prepares one to expect strange sights and scenes when land appears again ; nor is he disappointed. To one who makes here his first acquaintance with life in the Orient, the scene as we enter the harbor of Yokohama is a novel one. Scores of small craft shoot out from shore and gather about the steamer as we drop anchor, or scurry in her wake if the anchor is not yet lowered.

The boatmen scull their crafts each with a single oar, and crowd and scramble for places near the ship, clamoring and screaming at each other like very demons, and yet without the least hostile intent or demon stration ; and making fast with hook or rope, climb the side of the vessel like nimble-footed monkeys, ready to serve, for a moderate compensation, any one who desires to reach the shore with the least delay. In soliciting passengers, however, there is none of the clamor or ado so freely indulged among themselves in gathering about the ship. They proffer their services and await results, and if unsuccessful show no ill-humor or chagrin. Some public servants we wot of in America might well take lessons in good manners of the Japanese. These boatmen are often but half-clad ; some of them, indeed, scarcely clad at all ; and with their brown skins, jet hair, and prominent cheek-bones, bear a striking resemblance to the American Indian.

Indeed, one of the most plausible theories of the origin of the aboriginal tribes of North America is, that some of these people, venturing too far from shore in their fishing expeditions, and perhaps overtaken by storms, fell into the Pacific gulf stream, that sets with a strong current toward the shores of Alaska, and so drifted unwittingly upon the American coast, and, without means to return, made a home in this new world and gradually extended their dominion over it. One of the first problems the traveller will find himself pondering is, Who are these people ? To what race do they belong? They are not Mongols, neither are they Malays. The complexion does not cor respond with the one nor the general expression with the other. They are sui generis, a mixture probably of several Asiatic races,— Chinese, Malays, Coreans, and Siberians, producing, in process of ages, a race peculiar to itself.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF JAPAN. Once on shore, we find ourselves in a new world. Houses, streets, and people alike are strange. Men and women in quaint attire go shuffling along the streets, on pattens or sandals if the weather is fine, on clogs if the streets are muddy ; and the whole town swarms with children. They are flying kites, spinning tops, hopping about on stilts, wrestling, romping with all the abandon of happy childhood. The appearance of the foreigner arrests their sports for a little time, and they follow him with wondering eyes ; but curiosity is soon satisfied, and they return with new zest to their merry pastimes. One peculiar custom is soon noted. It is the destiny of every girl, and many of the boys, to assume at an early age the care of younger members of the household ; and almost every one, from four years old upward, has a baby strapped upon the back.

Seen at a little distance, if the baby is awake, the two heads seem to belong to one per son, the smaller being set a little to one side, instead of squarely upon the shoulders ; and if, as often happens, the other head, to maintain a balance, leans in the oppo site direction, it is a question at first which belongs to baby and which to nurse. Intent upon their sports or running of errands, as the case may be, these children seem scarcely conscious of their burthens. And the little ones, seemingly aware of their dependence, are hardly more trouble than so many kittens. They submit to be jounced, jolted, and tossed about in most reckless fashion, seldom cry, and when wearied fall asleep with head droop ing back or to one side, in a way that threatens instant dislocation of the neck. The houses seem to be made up of a series of wooden shutters for the outer walls, and paper screens for partitions, while the roofs project over the narrow sidewalk that runs close along the front.

There are no cabs to be seen, but instead is the jinrikisha, an exaggerated type of the old-fashioned baby carriage, drawn by men. This mode of locomotion does not promise much to one who has planned to see Japan. It may answer the purpose about the streets of a city, he reasons, but not for long distances in the country. A little experience, however, will show him his mistake. There is no more pleasant and certainly no more novel way of passing from town to town, and inspecting the work of the farmer and the life of the rural population, than in a jinrikisha, propelled by a pair of sturdy coolies. One takes his place between the shafts, and the other leads with a rope over his shoulder, and away they go, up hill and down dale and along the level plain, scarcely breaking their trot except at steep grades, and only ask ing a few moments now and then at a tea-house by the way, for a bowl of rice and a cup of their national bever age.

For relief the two will change places before the carriage ; sometimes the second man goes behind and pushes in lieu of pulling, and occasionally, when the road is smooth, one draws the vehicle, while the other runs alongside waiting his turn in the harness. The Japanese are accounted a hardy race, but evidently are not long-lived, as few people of great age are found among them. In size they are below the average stature, but otherwise well proportioned. The men have well developed muscles of chest and limb, and many of them have surprising endurance. Some jinrikisha men, on a good road, will run forty to fifty miles a day, and now and then even farther, apparently without much fatigue. In such case they are lightly apparelled of course — too lightly sometimes to suit a fastidious taste. They have the broad, umbrella-shaped hat upon the head, straw pattens upon the feet, a girdle about the loins and some times a loose garment over the shoulders.

Dress, how ever, is not a necessity and scarcely a convenience to the Japanese coolie or the rural laborer; but the law has come in recent years to limit somewhat the freedom that char acterized old Japan. Many of the Japanese women — barring the oblique eyes — are really beautiful, and in their native costume grace ful and attractive. The disposition to adopt European dress is to be regretted, for their new clothes never fit them, any more than a Japanese suit sets well on an American who puts it on for the first time. Dress is not a matter of taste merely, but of habit and life as well. For instance, the great bow in the sash at the back, so essen tial a feature of the Japanese costume, seems rather an incumbrance than an ornament on an American lady, but on a Japanese, puts the finishing touch to a really graceful and pretty attire.

Japanese society, without its characteristic dress, will lose much of its attraction. Yokohama, the first port opened to foreign trade under the treaty with the United States in 1854, is built on an island, in good part of artificial construction, and was provided by the Japanese government as a sort of evasion, for the time, of the letter of a law of long standing, for bidding the admission of foreignersto Japan. Being off the line of the Tokaido also, the road leading to the capital, there was less danger of conflicts arising between the new comers and the trains of the Daimios or local governors, who, in passing, exacted extraordinary deference on the part of all inhabitants along the way, and sometimes made free with any property that answered their special convenience. There are two very distinct quarters of the town — " the harbor "and "the bluff"; the former occupied for business purposes and including most of the native popula tion ; the latter largely given up to residences and including most of the American and European portion.

The bluffs rise from one hundred to three hundred feet, are very abrupt, and exhibit one peculiar feature of this por tion of Japan. A few feet below the surface is a bed of gravel which outcrops along the sides, and with the clay hardpan beneath forms a sort of reservoir for the surface waters. From this level there are frequent picturesque cascades. Tapped at almost any point, there is an abun dant flow of excellent drinking-water, and from its height, it is easily carried out over the town for domestic uses or across the plain for purposes of irrigation. This gravel bed was raised from the sea-level evidently at no very remote period ; and in the Hakone mountains not far away, there is conclusive evidence that this portion of Japan has been profoundly stirred by volcanic action in comparatively recent times, the former presence of the sea being plainly visible in the mountain passes, as well as in the metamorphic character of some of the volcanic rocks of the coast, now well above the reach of the tides.

Nor is this part of Japan exceptional in this respect. Fugiama, its chief mountain, is a volcanic product, and, according to tradition, shot up in a single night to its present height, more than twelve thousand feet, the highest peak in Japan. It is one of the most beautiful mountains in the world ; exceedingly symmetrical in form, covered a great portion of the year with a glittering robe of snow, and visible, in clear weather, over a large portion of Japan. Yokohama is a new town, and though made up largely of Japanese, is not the most favorable point for studying the life and character of the people we came to see. An hour's travel by rail takes us to Tokio the capital, formerly known as Yeddo ; and here we find ourselves in one of the largest cities of the world, with the Japanese features observed at Yokohama much intensified.

The city covers a large territory, but the way in which the population is massed in some streets is marvellous to see. It is a pe culiarity of most Oriental cities that there are large spaces of ground wholly unoccupied, except for parades and the like, while other portions are crowded almost to suffocation. Tokio occupies one of the river deltas with which the country abounds, and the depth of the alluvial deposit is indicated by the fact that in laying foundations for large structures, it is necessary to dig down from thirty to eighty feet to find a secure starting-point. The great depth of surface deposit renders Tokio less subject to the destructive effects of earthquakes, and still a favorable point for observation. Seismic disturbances are apparent, and still usually less violent, than at points immediately upon the rocky crust of the earth.