The Shores and Cities of the Boden See. Rambles in 1879 and 1880. With maps ... and ... etchings on stone by H. Schmidt-Pecht

Front matter

THE SHORES AND CITIES OF THE BODEN SEE. Constance THE SHORES AND CITIES OF THE BODEN SEE RAMBLES IN 1879 AND 1880 With Maps of the District ; and Numerous Original Etchings on Stone by H. Schmidt- Pecht. BY SAMUEL JAMES CAPPER ▼ author of "wanderings in war time," and -sketches of and from JEAN PAUL RICHTER." LONDON: THOS. DE LA RUE & CO. 1881 [The right of Translation and Reproduction is reserved.} PRINTED BY THOMAS DE LA RUE AND CO., BL'NHILL ROW, LONDON. THJS BOOK IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED TO WILLIAM SPROSTON CAINE, M.P. MY FRIEND OF MANY YEARS. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. General Description Of The Lake Of Constance

First visit, I — Donaueschingen, I — Hollenthal, I — View from Friedrichs-hafen, 2 — Dimensions of Boden See, 3 — Ingenious calculation, 3, 4 — Like the Sea, 5 — Name of lake, 5 — Glacier period, 6 — First mentioned in history, 9 — Tiberius builds a fleet on the lake, 10 — Rhaetians, 10 — Vindelicians, 10 — Alemanni, 10 — Irish missionaries and the holy Gallus, 13 — Foundation of St. Gall, 15— Death of Gallus, 17.

Chapter II. Lake Of Constance

— continued. Romanshorn, 19 — Rorschach, 21 — Celebration of Frohnleichnamstag, 22-24 — Protestant service at Rorschach, 25 — Catholic worship, 27, 28 — Visitors at our inn, 29 — Class-distinctions in Germany, 31 — Sunset near Rorschach, 32 — Arbon, 33 — Conradin, 33 — Heiden, 34 — An Appenzell house, 35 — The Steinli, 36 — View from the Kayen, 37 — Rustic bath, 38 — Sermon at Heiden, 38 — Thunderstorm, 39 — Visitor from St. Sepulchre, 40 — Die Ahnen, 42 — St. Nicholas and Wolfs-halden, 43.

Chapter III. Appenzell

The Republic of Appenzell, 44 — Quarrels between the Abbeys of Reichenau and St. Gall, 45 — The shepherds of Appenzell rise against the Abbot of St. Gall, 46 — Appenzellers find a general in Rudolf of Werdenberg, 47 — Success of the Appenzellers, 48 — Siege of Bregenz, 49 — Family of Reding, 50 — Appenzell divided into Inner-Rhoden and Ausser-Rhoden, 51. CONTENTS. VIII

Chapter IV. The Lands-gemeinden Of Switzerland

The Lands-gemeinden of Switzerland, 52 — Cantons that still hold them, 53— Business : how conducted, 54 — Small pay of Swiss officials, 55 — Salary of President of Swiss Confederation, 56 — Napoleon's opinion of the Lands-gemeinden, 56— Times of meeting, 57.

Chapter V. The Lands-gemeinde At Trogen

The Lands-gemeinde at Trogen, 58 — Lovely day after rain, 58 — Berg-bahn to Heiden, 59 — Find friends, 60 — Relations of the two Appenzells, 60 — The Budget, 61 — Programme of the day's business, 62 — M. Ziist-Brunnschweiler, 63 — Scene on the road, 64 — Trogen, 65 — Appearance of the Assembly, 66 — Opening hymn, 67 — Landammann Hohl, 67 — His valedictory address, 68 — The voting, 69 — Choice of Landammann, 70 — Oath of allegiance to the Fatherland, 71 — More English than an Englishman, 72 — Lands-gemeinde for Appenzell-Inner-Rhoden, 73.

Chapter VI. St

GALL. St. Gall the Manchester of Switzerland, 74 — The embroidery trade, 74 — The Abbey buildings, 75 — Treasures in Abbey library, 76 — Gallus' pocket lexicon, 76 — Gratitude we owe to the monks, 77 — Visit from Charlemagne, 77 — Abbot Gotzbert rebuilds the monastery, 78 — Notker composes "Media vita," 79 — View from the Freudenberg, 80 — Goldi and Co., 80 — Embroider)-, 81 — Swiss Postal arrangements, 81.

Chapter VII. Lindau

Lindau, 83 — Tropical rain, S3 — The Suabian Venice, 83 — Our quarters, 84 — Ebel's description, 85 — History of Lindau, 86 — Grand-Duke of Tuscany, 87 — Gospels and "British Workman," 87— The "Spital," 88— Vaccination, 88 — A grand old warrior, 89 — The Colonel's history, 90 — Visit of the Kaiser to Lindau, 91 — The rose of Gorze, 92, 93 — Bathing arrangements, 94 — Pleasant company, 95.

Chapter VIII. The Peasant War On The Boden See

The Peasant War on the Boden See, 96 — Vadian and Kessler proclaim the Reformation in St. Gall and the Rhine-valley, 96 — The peasants downtrodden, 97 — Twelve articles of the Peasant League, 98 — Miinzer, 98 — Heughlin, 98 — Schappler, 98 — Argument of articles, 99 — Rising of the peasants, 100 — Truchsess von Waldburg, 101 — Suppression of the Insurrection, 102, 103. CONTENTS.

Chapter IX. Bregenz

Bregenz, 104 — Oldest city on the lake, 104 — The Gebhartsberg, 105 — Wasserburg, 106 — Schloss Montfort, 106 — Langenargen, 107 — Friedrichs-hafen, 107 — Buchhorn, 107 — Story of Count Ulrich, 108 — Sail from Rorschach to Friedrichs-hafen, 109 — King Karl of Wurtemberg, no — The Schloss, III.

Chapter X. Meersburg

Meersburg, 113 — Kaiser Friedrich II. visits it in 1213, 113 — Old castle founded by Dagobert, 114 — Conradin of Hohenstaufen, 114 — Siege by Ludwig der Baier, 115 — Joseph von Lassberg, 116 — Ritter Mayer of Mayerfels, 116 — His collection of arms, 117 — Kaiser Joseph II. visits Meersburg, 118 — Institution for the Deaf and Dumb, 119 — Seminary, 120 — Meersburg wine, 121 — Dr. Mesmer, 121.

Chapter XI. Ueberlingen

Ueberlingen, 122 — Nussdorf, 122 — New Birnau, 122 — Salem, 122 — Visit of Frederick Barbarossa, 123 — Persecution of the Jews, 123 — Siege during Thirty Years' War, 125 — Old picture, 126 — Old-fashioned German inn, 127 — Wave of heat, 128 — Cathedral, 129 — Rathhaus, 129 — City orphanage, 130 — Visit to the "Spital," 131 — The Beneficiary, 133 — Catholic versus Protestant Germany, 134.

Chapter XII. Goldbach

Goldbach, 136 — Heidenhohlen, 137 — Sipplingen, 138 — Lachrymæ Petri, 138 — Sernatingen, 138 — Martyrdom of Heugling, 138— Legend of Bodmann, 139 — The Ruins, 140 — Legend of Kargeck, 141 — Mainau, 141 — Fair Maid of Bodmann, 142 — Visit to Mainau, 144 — The Schloss, 145.

Chapter XIII. Constance

Approach to Constance, 147— Gottlieben, 148— Kreuzlingen, 149— First feud of Guelphs and Ghibellines, 150 — Frederick Barbarossa, 151 — His death, 152 — Believed to sleep, 152 — The Sicilian boy, 153 — Frederick II. demands admittance into Constance, 154— Court at Basle, 155— Walther von der Vogelweide, 156 — Death of Frederick IL, 157. CONTENTS. X

Chapter XIV. The Council Of Constance

The Council of Constance, 158— The Rival Popes, 158— The Council of Pisa, 158 — John XXIII., 159 — Council at Rome, 159 — Strange appearance, 159 — Dispersal of Council, 159 — Council of Constance decided upon, 160 — Chronicle of Ulrich von Reichenthal, 160 — Description of the Pope's journey, 165 — "Sic capiunt vulpes," 165 — Entrance into Constance, 165 — Numbers present at the Council, 168-9 — Emanuel Chrysoloras, 170 — His death and epitaph, 170 — Æneas Sylvius, 171.

Chapter XV. John Huss And Jerome Of Prague

Birth of Huss, 172 — Early studies, 172 — Helfert's Testimony, 172 — Kaiser Sigismund commands his attendance at the Council, 173 — His journey from Bohemia, 174 — Lodges in St. Pauls-Gasse, 174 — Cost of his living, 175 — Is arrested and thrown into a dungeon, 175 — Sigismund makes a public entry into Constance, 175 — His unworthy treatment of Huss, 175 — Sufferings of Huss in prison, 176 — Taken to Gottlieben, 177 — Brought before the Council, 177 — The brave Knight of Chlum, 177 — His last interview with Huss, 178 — Scene in the Cathedral when Huss was condemned, 17S-1S0 — The blush of Sigismund, 180 — Taken out to be burned, 181 — Martyrdom, 182 — Cruel imprisonment of Jerome of Prague, 1S3 — Testimony of Poggio to the intrepidity of Jerome, 1S4 — "O sancta simplicitas ! " 1S5 — The Hussenstein, 186.

Chapter XVI. The Flight Of Pope John XXIII

— ELECTION OF A NEW POPE AND CLOSE OF THE COUNCIL. Pope John resigns, 1S7 — His flight, 1S8 — Energy of the Kaiser, 189 — Humiliation of Frederick of Austria, 190 — Condemnation of Pope John, 191 — Hoped-for reformation of the Church, 191 — Cardinal Zabarella, 192 — The Cardinals oppose reform, 192 — Election of a new Pope, 193 — The Conciliums-saal, 193 — How the Conclave was held, 194 — Martin V. is chosen, 194 — Enthronement of the new Pope, 195 — Results of the Council, 196 — The Kaiser in debt, 197 — Exeunt omnes, 198 — New wine must be put into new bottles, 198.

Chapter XVII. The History Of The City Of Constance Subsequent To The

PERIOD OF THE GREAT COUNCIL. The history of the City of Constance subsequent to the period of the Great Council, 199 — The Reformation accepted by Constance, 199 — The Bishop expelled, 199 — Charles V. determines to punish Constance, 200 — Advance CONTENTS. XI of a Spanish army, 201 — Fight on the Rhine bridge, 201 — Valour of the butcher-boys, 202 — The city at lhe mercy of Charles, 203 — Constance becomes Austrian, 204 — Kaiser Joseph II. visits the city, 205 — Genevese colony, 206 — General Dufour, 207.

Chapter XVIII

J. H. VON WESSENBERG. J. H. Von Wessenberg, 208 — Birth, Family, Education, 209 — Comes to Constance, 210 — Importance of the See of Constance.. 210 — Struggle with the Papacy, 211 — Reading Societies for the Clergy, 212 — Bitter hostility of Rome, 213, 214— Visits Rome, 215— The Pope's anger, 216— Nolo episcopari, 217 — Farewell address, 217 — Legislative labours, 219, 220 — Writings, 221-4 — "How a Christian should regard suffering," 225 — Character, 226 — Private life, 226 — Beneficence, 227 — Simplicity, 227 — Wessenberg Rettungshaus, 228 — His death, 229.

Chapter XIX. Constance In Summer

Constance in summer, 230 — Hotels, 230 — Kreuzlingen, 231 — Abbey of Kreuzlingen, 232 — Hotel Helvetia, 232 — Arenenberg, 233 — Bremsen, 233 — Louis Napoleon at Arenenberg, 234 — Paintings and objects of interest in the Chateau, 235-6 — Island and Abbey of Reichenau, 237 — History of Abbey, 238 — Its Scholars, 239 — Bishop Conrad the Guelph, 240 — His Tomb, 240 — Gift of Queen Victoria, 240 — Visit to the Hohentwiel, 241 — Did Drake or Raleigh introduce the potato into Europe ? 242 — History of Hohentwiel, 243 — The Huns, 244 — Duke Burkhard and Duchess Hadwig, 245 — Hadwig's history and character, 248 — Blemishes in Scheffel's "Ekkehard," 248 — Widerhold, 249 — The French destroy the fortress, 249 — View from Hohentwiel, 250-1 — Reformatory of Bernrain, 253 — Children's treat, 253.

Chapter XX. Winter At Constance

Constance in winter, 255 — Our quarters at the "Helvetia," 256— Our company, 256— The son of the house, 257 — Young professor of criminal jurisprudence, 258— "Naughty Tobag," 258— Skating Rink, 258— Christmas at the Orphanage, 259 — Sudden thaw, 260 — Green grass again, 261 — A polite officer, 262 — Meeting on the ice, 263 — Hoar-frost, 264 — The ice at Allensbach, 264— Fishing through the ice, 265— Tract distribution, 267— Markelfingen, 268— Radolfszell, 268— A glorious run on the ice, 269— The Krone at Steckborn, 271— Mannenbach, 272— Wangen, 272— Mammern, 272 — "Das Untere Haus," 273— The warnings of "mine host, 274-5.". CONTENTS. XII

Chapter XXI. The Frozen Boden See

The frozen Boden See, 276 — Schwab's poem, 277 — Reason why ice forms on the surface of water, 278 — Freezing of the lake, 279 — Records of the freezing of the lake in former years, 281 — In 1830, 283 — Sad fate ofthe water-fowl, 285 Skating, 286 — Dangerous excursions, 287-8 — Jets of flame, 289 — Preternatural stillness of the frozen lake, 290 — The ice on the Unter See deserted, 291 — The Noth-schiff, 292 — The freezing of the lake costs twenty-five lives, 292.

Chapter XXII. Constance In The Spring

Constance in the Spring, 294 — Apple and pear trees in bloom, 295 — Rowing, 295— Professor Kinkel, 296 — Grumble about insufficient ventilation, 296 — Theatre, 297 — Storms, 298 — Stein-upon-the-Rhine, 298 — Hohenklingen, 299 — Schachzabelbuch, 299 — Abbot David von Winkelsheim, 300 — The Hall of the Frescoes in the Abbey of St. George, 302 — The cells of the monks, 303.

Chapter XXIII. The Thirty Years' War On The Boden See

The Thirty Years' War on the Boden See, 305 — Historians of the War, 305 — Schiller, 305 — Motley, 305 — Its outbreak at Prague, 306 — Battles of Liitzen and Nordlingen, 306, 307 — Devastation wrought throughout Germany, 307 — On the Boden See, Ueberlingen is the headquarters of the Catholics, Lindau of the Protestants, 307 — Wallenstein's army, 308 — Pestilence, 308 — War Commissaries, 309 — The Kaiser remonstrates with Wallenstein, 310 — Fresh troops and fresh exactions, 310 — The Swedes under Horn, 312 — Besiege Constance and Ueberlingen, 312, 313 — Conrad Widerhold at the Hohentwiel, 314 — Takes Ueberlingen by surprise, 315 — Is himself besieged, 315 — The Swedes take Bregenz and besiege Lindau, 317 — Diary of Sebastian Burster, Monk of Salem, 318 — Condition of the Abbey at the beginning of the war, 320 — Strange portent in the sky, 321 — Abundant vintage, 321 — The Abbey and the fortune of war, 324 — Swedes come to burn Salem, 326 — Death of Gustavus Adolphus, 32S — Troubles of the Monks, 329 — A relieving army, 330 — Apostrophe to the Kaiser, 332 — Nordlingen, 2,2,1, — Plague of field-mice, 335 — Caterpillars, 335 — Pestilence, 336 — Starvation and misery, 337 — Vicissitudes of the War, 339-345 — ■ The Abbey almost deserted, 345 — Sudden close of old Burster's Diary, 345 — Requiescat in pace, 346.

Chapter XXIV. The Inhabitants Of The Waters Of The Boden See

The inhabitants of the waters of the Boden See, 347 — The ocean much richer in living organisms than the lakes, 348 — Fresh-water fish, mussels, &c. , originally came from the ocean, 349 — How did they come? 350 — Water-fleas, 351 — Their CONTENTS. XIII propagation, 351 — Nature's post-carriers, 353 — The Felchen, 354 — Its variations in the different lakes, 354 — A pirate of the lake, 355 — The " White fish," 356— The "Nasen," 356— The Tench, 357— The Pike, 357— The Wels, 357 — The Salmon-trout, 357 — Might not a fish-ladder be made for the salmon to pass the Falls of the Rhine ? 358 — Migration of eels, 359 — The Kilch or Kropf-felchen, 361 — Only lives in the depths ofthe lake, 361.

Chapter XXV. The Rheinthal, The Prattigau, Seewis

The Rheinthal, 364 — Leichstenstein, 364 — Landquart, 365 — Valley of the Prattigau, 366 — Village of Seewis, 367 — Chur, 369 — Graubiinden (Grisons), 370 — Cathedral of Chur, 371 — Its roof, wood carvings, and ancient manuscripts, 373 — Pyx of the seventh century, 374 — Chur captured by the French, 374.

Chapter XXVI. Summer And Autumn At Seewis

Seewis in Summer, 377 — A natural bath, 377 — Variety of walks, 378 — Seewis to Griisch, 379 — Seewis to the Clushohe, 380 — Inhabitants of Seewis, 381 — Cattle sent to the "Alps" in summer, 382 — Return of Cattle from the "Alps," 383 — Seewis in Autumn, 3S3 — Early winter, 385 — Fruit Harvest, 385-

Chapter XXVII. The Reformation At Seewis

— THE POET SALIS. The Reformation at Seewis, 387 — the Reformation in the Prattigau, 388 — Rising ofthe Peasants, 389 — Desperate fighting. 390 — Birth ofthe Poet Salis, 391 — His military career, 392 — His services to his country, 393 — Sweetest poet of Switzerland, 394 — Longfellow's translation of his poem " The Silent Land," 395 — Estimate of his character, 396 — His tomb and epitaph, 397.

Chapter XXVIII. Seewis In Winter

Seewis in Winter, 399 — "Toboggining," 400 — Social condition of the people, 401 — Lands of the Commune, 401 — Simplicity and frugality of the people, 404 — Comparison with English peasant-life, 405 — Improvident marriages, 406 — Restrictions on right of bequest, 406 — Attendance at school, 408 — The Village Pastor, 409 — Women take precedence, 410 — Morality of the people, 411 — Sobriety and cleanliness, 412 — The night-watchman, 413.

Chapter XXIX. Excursions From Seewis

Fadara Stein, 415— Ascent of the Vilan, 417— An early start, 418— Venerable pines, 419 — Sunrise on the mountains, 419 — Monument near the summit, 420 — Magnificent view, 421 — The Scesa Piana, 423 — Excursion to the Liiner See, 424 — The baths of Ganei, 425 — National and patriotic songs, CONTENTS. XIV — The Kuh-reigen, or Ranz des Vaches, 427— An awkward piece, 428— Benighted on the mountain, 430 — The "Douglas" Hut, 431 — Night quarters, 431 — An uncanny goat, 432 — Dawn among the mountains, 435— Summit of the Cavelljock, 436— The return home, 437.

Chapter XXX. Davos Am Platz

A sledge-drive to Davos, 439 — Kublis, 440 — Klosters, 440 — Unter-Laret and the Schwarz See, 441 — Ober-Laret, 442 — Davos Dorfli, 442 — Davos am Platz, 443 — A village of invalids, 443 — The air of Davos, 445 — Davos as a health-resort, 446 — Extremes of temperature, 446 — The Landwasser route, 446 — Davos Frauen-kirch, 447 — The Ziiger-strasse and Barentritt, 448 — Wiesen, 449 — Lenz, 449 — Chur, 449 — A mountain-ride in winter, 450 — Farewell and " Aus Wiedersehen," 452. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Map of Boden See at end of work Sketch Map of Prattigau, Seewis, etc facingpage 415 Constance Frontispiece Lake-Dwellers on the Boden See facingpage 8 Rorschach Tn Lindau j; g, Bregenz . IO/, Meersburg t :It Gateways of the New and Old Castles (Meersburg) ... ,, n6 UEBERLINGEN <t 122 Rath-haus, Ueberlingen tl 129 Ueberlingen, from the Upper Town ... ... ... ... ,, 130 Mainau „ 144 The Rheinthor, Constance ,, 147 GOTTLIEBEsN ' ,, 177 Chateau of Arenenberg, the residence of Queen Hortense ... ,, 234 Salenstein and Arenenberg, with part of Reichenau ... ,, 237 The Unter See, Insel Reichenau, and Hegau ,, 241 The Hohentwiel, with Radolfszell, Reichenau, and Constance ,, 250 Court-yard of the Stadt Kanzlei (Constance) ,, 255 Stein-on-the-Rhine, with the Castle of Hohen-Klingen ... ,, 298 The Gebhardsberg and the Rheinthal ,, 364 Seewis ,, 376 The Luner See ,,

Preface

. I fear that this book is a bold experiment. I have invited the reader to accompany me on a journey around the Lake of Constance, and up the Rheinthal into the sunny Prattigau, and to sojourn with me for nearly two years. Whatever has interested me, I have asked him to share — excursions, personal ad venture, books, and even sermons. In the summer of 1879 I addressed a letter to the Times, under the title " Can cheapness be combined with enjoyment in foreign travel ? " which was followed, in the course of the autumn, by a series of letters with the title of the present work. It appeared to me that the Boden See was little known and less appreciated in England, and that much of its history and legend was a sealed book to the merely English reader. If, in this work, I have not succeeded in showing, that the Lake of Constance and the cities on its shores, are full of interest to the historical student, as well as to the traveller, I am profoundly conscious that I alone am to blame.

The reader will be greatly assisted in following my narrative by the map of the Boden See, as well b FREE A CE. XVIII as by the sketch-map of the Prattigau, to be found in this volume. To the artist, Herr Heinrich Schmidt-Pecht, of Constance, I feel myself under a great obligation, for the pains-taking care and fidelity which he has exercised in the preparation of the original etchings, with which my narrative is illustrated. Of the manner in which he has executed the task assigned to him, it is un necessary for me to speak, but I will venture to express my thanks to him for the feeling and enthusiasm which he has thrown into his work, thus converting a matter of business into a labour of love. The Introductory Chapter is intended for the class for whose benefit my first letter to the Times was pub lished, for those namely, who, however great may be their culture, possess but little cash, and desire to employ it to the best advantage in foreign travel.

One word as to the spelling of German words. As my book is intended for English readers, many of whom may not be German scholars, I have thought it best to adopt the plan likely to be most convenient to them, which is not in all cases that used by Germans. The system of word-building is very simple when you once understand it, but an English reader might well be appalled by such a word as Rheinundmainschleppdampfshifffahrtgesellschaft, the title of a tug company on the Rhine. Without having quite such long words to deal with, I have written Bodensee — Boden See, Friedrichshafen — Friedrichs-hafen, &c, and I have

PREFACE.

. XIX often, instead of using the umlaut as in Thiir, a door, written Thuer ; and Vogel, birds, Voegel. Thanks to the efforts of radical spelling-reformers, German spelling is now in a state of absolute chaos. This seems the greater pity, as the system, adopted until within the last few years, was singularly simple and intelligible. The new reformers have made war, and successful war, upon all unnecessary, or what they regard as unnecessary, consonants and vowels : thus " Muth," courage, has become " Mut," " Rath," counsel, has become "Rat," " That," a deed, has be come "Tat." The German Minister of Education has ordered that the new spelling shall be used in the schools, though it is said Prince Bismarck will have none of it ; and some of the leading newspapers have adopted it, so that those of us who had the misfortune to learn our German twenty-five years ago, feel, on looking through a broad sheet, as if we were trying to make out an unknown tongue.

An incident which recently occurred in Berlin, aptly illustrates the inconvenience, at any rate, of the transition-state between the new spelling and the old. A gentleman of high rank advertised for a governess of specially good education. A lady applied who had just com pleted an elaborate course of study in a government college where the new system of spelling was used. Her testimonials were unexceptionable, her qualifi cations everything that could be desired, but her letter of application was written in the new style, and the b

PREFACE.

. XX gentleman replied that he regretted exceedingly his inability to avail himself of her services, but that it was impossible for him to engage, as teacher for his daughters, a lady who did not know how to write her own language ! The names of places and of men seem to be spelt in the most varied fashion : thus old Reichenthal is often called " Richental," or even " Rikental." I have endeavoured, as far as possible, to adopt a uniform and consistent plan, but if I have not always been successful, I may, I think, under the circumstances, justly crave the indulgence of my readers. I cannot close this preface without acknowledging the very great kindness I have received from many gentlemen in lending me books, and securing them for me from libraries, books which I have found invaluable, and which, without this kind courtesy, would have been quite inaccessible to me, where I write, in this Alpine retreat.

Among those to whom I am thus indebted, I desire especially to mention Herr Dr. Stizenberger, Herr Ludwig Leiner, and Herr Hermann Miiller, of Constance, and Herr Franz Xaver Ullersberger of Ueberlingen. S. J. CAPPER. Seewis, Prattigau, Switzerland, December 6th, 1880. PRINCIPAL AUTHORITIES CONSULTED IN THE PREPARATION OF THIS WORK. " Der Boden See nebst dem Rheinthale." — Gustav Schwab. Cotta, Stuttgart und Tubingen, 1840. " Rund um den Boden See." — Dr. K. Th. Zingeler. Wurzburg. "Reisen in einige Klbster Schwabens, durch den Schwarzwald, und in die Schweiz." — Zapf, 1781. " Schwabisches Stadtewesen des Mittelalters." — Jager, 1831. " Beschreibung des Boden Sees." — Ulm, 1783. Ulrich von Reichenthal's " Chronik des Konzils in Konstanz. Manu skript mit illuminirten Handzeichnungen." "Das Conzil zu Kontanz in den Jahren, 1414-1418." — Bearbeitet von J. Marmor.

Fritz, Kontanz, 1874. " Reformateurs avant Ia Reforme ; XVe Siecle." — Emile de Bonnechose, 1860. " Hus und Hieronymus." — J. A. Helfert, Studie. Tempsky, Prag, 1853. "Das Leben J. H. Von Wessenberg's." — Wagner, Freiburg, 1860. " Schriften des Vereins fur Geschichte des Boden Sees und seiner Umgebung." — Stettner, Lindau. "Das Thierleben im Boden See." — Dr. August Weismann, Professor in Freiburg i. Br. "Ueber das Tiefseeleben der Meere und Seen mit besonderer Berucksichtigung des Boden Sees." — A. Steudel, Professor in Ravensburg. J. Heider's "Tagebuch iiber den Verlauf der Belagerung Lindau 's durch die Schweden 29 Dec. (8 Januar) 1646 — 28 Februar (10 Marz)." "Die Genfer-Kolonie in Konstanz." — Dr. Marmor. "Der Boden See ist zugefroren im Winter, 1880." — Anton Metz. Feyel, Ueberlingen.

" Sebastian Burster's Beschreibung des Schwedischen Krieges, 1630-1647, nach der Original-Handschrift im General-Landes-archiv zu Karlsruhe." — Heraus gegeben von Dr. Friedrich von Weech, Gr : Bad. Archivrath. Hirzel, Leipzig. "Die Reformation in den Bisthiimern Chur und Como." — C. J. Kind. Grubenmann, Chur, 1858. "Die Schweizer Daheim und in der Fremde." — Edward Osenbruggen. Hofmann, Berlin. "Gedichte von Johann Gaudenz von Salis-Seewis." — Orell Fussli. Ziirich, 1869. "Das Buch vom General Dufour." — Senn-Barbieux. Altwegg-Weber, St. Gallen, 1878. "Germany: Present and Past." — By S. Baring-Gould, M.A. Kegan Paul & Co., London, 1879.

Introduction

. The whole art of travel has undergone many revolu tions since the blind bard of Chios spoke of the advantage of becoming acquainted with many men and many manners. The wise Ulysses combined much adventure and piracy with the extension of his general culture, brought to him by his travels. Speaking generally, however, the idea of travelling for pleasure was quite foreign to the ancients. Travel meant toil and hardship, and was only engaged in by the young and the adventurous as a means of conquering fortune, or by insatiable lovers of knowledge, like the father of history, to whom everything that related to his fellow men was full of interest. The Romans were universal conquerors, and therefore great travellers; but it is doubtful whether travel, as such, had any great charms for them. The early Christian missionaries, with St. Paul as their great prototype, were too conscious of the tremendous issues offered to mankind by the faith which they proclaimed, to have an eye for the beauties of nature or the triumphs of art, which their long and toilsome journeys opened up to them.

A narrow and fierce piety, combined with the " auri sacra fames" was the origin of the adventurous journeys alike of the Crusaders, and of Cortez, Pizarro, and their compeers. Then came the time when the cadets of almost all noble Scotch houses,

INTRODUCTION.

. XXIV and of many English, sought fortune and knowledge of the world in military service abroad ; and wherever in the world quarrels were to be fought out, there the hardy Swiss mercenary was to be found in hun dreds or in thousands. This custom produced not merely professional " soldados," of whom Sir Dugald Dalgetty is the inimitable type — not mere soldiers of fortune, like the Butlers and Gordons of the Thirty Years' War, but generals of European reputation like Leslie, and David Barclay, of Ury. Probably this habit of taking foreign service was the immediate forerunner of the custom of every English nobleman, or man of family, making the grand tour before settling down to the serious business of life. But the future of the world belongs to democracy, and in nothing is this more strikingly true than in the matter of travelling.

Where fifty years back one English "milor" drove along in his gorgeous travelling coach with mountains of luggage and many servants, thousands of his humbler fellow-countrymen, with or without the kindly offices of Mr. Cook or Mr. Gaze, now fill the second and third-class carriages ot railways which everywhere open out what in a former generation was a "terra incognita" to their class. The phrase that the future of the world belongs to democracy surely means that, in the time to come, the world, with its possibilities of enjoyment and culture, will be for the many, and not alone for the favoured few. The cheapening of the necessaries of life and of the cost of conveyance, and the shortening of the hours of labour, all point in this direction, and the general extension of education at once awakens the taste for intelligent enjoyment, and helps to make its accom plishment possible.

INTRODUCTION.

. XXV There are those who regret this change, who think it the natural and proper order of the world that the many shall toil, and the few — of course they are among the number — shall enjoy. This sentiment has never been so well or so tersely expressed as by James Russell Lowell in the " Biglow Papers " : — " The mass ough' to labor, an' we lay on soffies." These would-be aristocrats are always ready with the observation that there always have been Helots, and that there always will be ; if you give culture and education and enjoyment to the hewers of wood and the drawers of water, who will draw water or hew wood for us ? The answer to this question is not easy, but we must remember that the constitution of Sparta was upon no Christian model, and that science is every day teaching us how to make Nature do the rough work of life — the hewing of wood and the drawing of water — for us.

The hard exhausting work of agriculture — the ploughing, the reaping, the threshing, the grinding, once all done directly by men and women — are more and more done, and done well, by machinery ; and this applies with even more force to almost every laborious craft and manufacture. The powers of Nature — wind, water, or steam — supply the brute force ; man gives the directing intelligence. Is it too much to hope that with the advance of science, humanity may be relieved from all degrading and brutalizing drudgery, and thus the hindrances to the enjoyment and culture of the masses be removed ? Those who hold that education, art, science, and indeed every higher enjoyment should be reserved for the select few, including, of course, themselves, are especially strong upon the subject of travel. What do vulgar shop-keepers, much less greasy mechanics, want