Across Africa, etc

Front matter

ACROSS AFRICA LOOKING BACK OVER MAKATA SWAMP. From a Sketch by Ur. Dillon. '^ [Frontispiece, page 4^. ACROSS AFRICA BY VERNEY LOVETT CAMERON, C.B., D.C.L. commander royal navy ; GOLD MEDALLIST ROVAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, ETC. WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS. JBetu CtBition, AVith New and Original Matter and Corrected Map. LONDON: GEORGE PHILIP & SON, 32 FLEET STREET; LIVERPOOL : CAXTON BUILDINGS, SOUTH JOHN STREET, and 49 & si SOUTH CASTLE STREET. 1885. Dedicates BY PERMISSION TO HER MAJESTY QUEEN VICTORIA BV HER HUMBLE AND OBEDIENT SERVANT THE AUTHOR. h

Preface

TO NEW EDITION. QO much has occurred in Africa since I completed my journey across that continent, that it may perhaps be considered by some that the history of my travels may now be out of date. Nevertheless, I think that as into a considerable portion of the country tra versed by me, no other white man has yet penetrated, in its present and cheaper form "Across Africa" may prove of value to the students of African geography, and aid in the great Avork of opening up Central Africa to civilisation and commerce. The establishment of the Congo 'Free State under the enlightened patronage of the King of the Belgians, aided by the energy and determination of Mr. Stanley, has become an accomplished fact. The Tanganyika is now navigated by steam-launches, and

PREFACE.

TO NEW EDITION. Captain Hore, of the London Missionary Society, has been (or is about to be) joined by his wife, who will be the first white lady privileged to gaze upon its marvellous scenery. I have, in correcting the map, adhered to the posi tions fixed by myself, as I have seen no reason to consider, except perhaps in the case of Karema, that any more recent travellers had better means or opportunities than myself of ascertaining them, and that my training as a naval officer had, long before I dreamed of African travel, rendered me a proficient observer. In the last chapter will be found a few remarks on the vexed question of the Lukuga, and I trust that the reader will be able to follow my reasoning on the subject. All the Avork of more recent travellers has only tended to confirm my views as to the commercial value of the interior of Africa ; and I can only repeat, what I have before urged, that it is our bounden duty as Britons to do our utmost in every possible way towards the opening up of the country. Light railways can now be built at such small cost, and so quickly, that there should really be little

PREFACE.

TO NEW EDITION. IX difficulty in opening up several arterial lines of trade into the central districts. H.H. the Sultan of Zanzi bar should be advised to give his protection to any body of capitalists who may undertake such works, and the efforts of the Portuguese in the same direction persistently encouraged and assisted. V. LOVETT CAMERON. April 1885.

PREFACE.

TO FIRST EDITION. TN placing this book before the public, I am conscious of its shortcomings as a narrative having" an unbroken interest for the general reader. As a fact I neATer contemplated writing a book of travel, but merely undertook the journey under the circum stances detailed in Chapter I. To have introduced and enlarged upon personal events, sport, the sayings and doings of my followers, &c, would have increased the size of this work to an alarminpdecree, for it must be remembered that the period dealt with extends over three years and five months. Nearly the whole of that time I was on the tramp ; and it has been my object to make this a guide by which my footsteps may be traced by those interested in the exploration of Africa, rather than a personal narrative of adventure and travel. With this purpose I have principally confined

PREFACE.

TO FIRST EDITION. myself to detailing the particulars of my route ; the peculiarities of the country; the manners and customs of the natives ; the methods under which the detestable traffic in slaves is conducted, and the desolation and destruction that follow in its train ; and to showing the prospects of opening up and civilising Africa. My time has also been much occupied in many Avays, and had I not received cordial assistance from willing hands it is possible this attempt would never have seen the light. The accompanying map, too, has been most care fully prepared from my numerous notes, observations, and sketch-maps by Mr. Turner of the Royal Geographical Society, and I feel every confidence in putting it forward as a thoroughly reliable guide to my journey from the East to the West Coast of Africa. V. LOVETT CAMERON. December 1876. PACK IO 27 CONTENTS.

Chapter I

The Livingstone Search Expedition.— Motives for Volunteering.— Abandonment of the Search. — A New Expedition decided upon. — Selected for the Command. —Departure from England.— Arrival at Aden. — Zanzibar. — Fitting out. — Disadvantages of having arrived with Sir B. Frere's Mission. — Difficulties in obtaining Men. — Ordered to push on. — Ill-advised Haste. — The Start from Zanzibar. — Bagamoyo. — The French Mission. — A Balooch Commander-in-Chief. — Kaoli. — A Banquet. — A Fire. — Paying Pagazi. — An Arab Festival .......

Chapter II

Parting Visit to Zanzibar. — Completing Equipment. — French Charlie's Store. — Farewell Dinners. — Our first Campaign. — A Fracas. — Upholding our Dignity. — The Father pleads for his Son. — Shamba Gonera. — Visit from Dr. Kirk. — Our first Touch of Fever. — A new Volunteer. — Start for Kikoka. — The March. — Alligator- Shooting. — Deserters ......

Chapter III

Leaving Kikoka. — Form of Camp. — Mode of Hut-building. — Foraging for Provisions. — A "Short Cut." — Bombay as a Guide.— A luckless Cruise. — A needless Scare. — Levy of Mhongo. — Msuwah. — Fortified Villages. — An Artful Dodger. — An Arab Caravan. — Offerings to Spirits. — Baobab-Trees. — Kisemo. — The Lugerengeri.— The Kungwa Hills. — Simbaweni. — Its Queen. — Rumoured Terrors of the Makata Swamp. — Lazy Porters. — Honour amongst Deserters . . .... CONTENTS. XIV PAOK 44 54 66 7S

Chapter IV

The Makata Swamp.— Mud-Traps.— The Makata River.— A Native Bridge. — Transporting Donkeys. — Rehenneko. — Laid up. — A Strike among the Men.— Routine in Camp.— Visitors.— A swaggering Half-Caste. — News from Murphy. — His Arrival. — Death of Moffat. — Organising the fresh Arrivals.— The Strength of the Expedition. — Women and Slaves. — Losses by Death aud Desertion. — Armament. — Our Dogs and Donkeys. — Ready

Chapter V

Our Porter's Vanity.— A rocky Gorge. — Camping on a Slope. — An impudent Beggar. — Mirambo. — Monster Trees. — Wife-beating. — Its Remedy. — A Blunder and its Consequences. —Fortune- Seekers. — Several Caravans join us. — An Elephant-Hunter. — A distressing Sight. — A Terekesa. — A dry Country. — Death from Exhaustion. — Water once again. — Strange Doctrine of a "True Believer." — TemW Huts. — Tlie Wadirigo. — A warlike Race. — Their Arms. — Harvesting. — Bitter Waters. — The Marenga Mkali. — Sharp-eyed Wagogo ......

Chapter VI

Entry into Ugogo. — Character of the Wagogo. — Defeat of an Arab Expedition. — Ugogo. — Water-supply. — A Wake. — Wanyamwesi and their Ingratitude.— The Wagogo. — Extraordinary Earrings. — Fantastic Coiffures. — Personal Adornment.— A Struggle for Precedence. — Curiously formed Trees and Excrescences. — Astonishing the Natives. — Adopted Fathers. —A Thieving Tribe. — Bombay in a Fog. — A Chilly Morning. — Manufacture of Salt. — Smallpox ........

Chapter VII

Kanyenye*. — A veritable Methuselah. — Harsh-tongued People. — A drunken Official. — Laziness of our Pagazi. — A Fancy for Goggles. — A little Visitor.— Sambo shot. — A thick Head. — Retributive Justice. — Fines for shedding Blood. — Hyænas. — A Rain-Spirit. — Pigeon-shooting. — Witchcraft. — The Penalty of Failure. Wizards roasted alive. — Usekhe.— Obsequies of a Chief. The Wahumba. — Cost of Provisions. — Admiring Spectators. — Immense Tusks. — A distressed British Subject.— Expenditure in Mhongo ....... CONTENTS. XV PACK 93 1 08 123

Chapter VIII

The Mgunda Mkali. — A serious Misunderstanding. — Restoration of Peace. — Rejoicing in the Village. — The Mabunguru Nullah. — An unexpected Chase.— Native Farming. — An intelligent and industrious People. — Jiwe la Singa. — Complimentary Beggars. — Moonstruck Askari. — Hatred of Snakes. —Pitfalls. — A dry March. — Burnt-up Country. — A Hunter's Paradise. — A well-fortified Village and well-dressed Chief — Discovery of a Den of Thieves. — A haunted Well. — An Attack by Ruga-Ruga .

Chapter IX

Unyanyembe. — Morning Calls. — Excessive Hospitality. — The fighting Mirambo. — The Origin of the Struggle. — The Garrison of Unyanyembe. — Atrocities. — Kidnapping our Pagazi. — A Letter from Sir S. Baker. — Communication with Mtesa. — A Difficulty in his Conversion to Mohammedanism. — Gross Outrage upon a Pagazi. —Mutiny amongst the Askari. — The Unpleasantness of the Situation. — Our Troubles and Worries. — Fever aud Blindness. — Desertion of Pagazi. — Consequent Expense. — Kindness of the Arabs. — An Auction. — Public Sale of Slaves. — The Death of Livingstone ....... CHAPTER N. Arrival and Reception of Livingstone's Body. — Some Particulars of his Death. — The Future of the Expedition. — Its partial Abandonment. — Murphy resigns. — Dillon compelled to turn back. — The Personnel of my Expedition. — Parting from Dillon. — I go Forward alone. — Troubles of Transport. — I throw away Preserved Provisions. — A Native Plea for Slavery. — The Death of Dr. Dillon. — A sad Blow. — Kasekerah. — Offended Dignity of Askari. — Shirking their Work. — Determined Deserters. — A pleasant March. — Village Clubs. — A Visit to Murphy. — The Manner of transporting Livingstone's Body. — Capture of a Thief. — I reduce my Kit. — A dirty and drunken Chief. — Muscat Donkeys. — The [Road blocked ........

Chapter XI

Driven back to Hisinene. — A miserable Christmas. — Superstitions regarding Snakes.— Customs of the People. — Dancing.— Cooking Arrangements. — Storing Corn. — Their Huts. — Food. — Curing. — Provisions.— Cloth-making.— Grinding Corn.— Tribal Marks.— CONTENTS. XVI PAQB 138 152 165 *79 Hairdressing. — Warned against Mirambo. — A Spy shot. — On the Road again.— A hospitable old Lady— Missing the Way.—Sack making. — An Elopement.— Disordered State of the Country. — The South Ngombe.— A Day's Shooting.— A Hunter's Story

Chapter XII

Ugara. — A ludicrous Sight. — Mirambo's Headquarters. — Destruction and Desolation. — The Havoc of the Slave-trade.— A Field for England's Labours.— Leo surprises the Natives. — Leg Ornaments. — Liowa.— My Pets. — A lawless Set of Ruffians. — Heavy Rains. — Bee-nesting. — A Stampede. —Lost in Jungle.— A Panic. —Rocky Residences. — An Attempt at Extortion. — I give a Lecture on Hospitality. — Its good Effect. — Nothing to eat. — Jasmin dies. — Tameness of my Uoat. — UnfriendlyVillages.— A Buffalo Charge

Chapter XIII

Floating Islands. — Their Origin and Growth. — Crossing the Sindi. — Uvinza. — A Cordial Reception. — Strange Economy. — A Boy Chief. — Curious Visitors. — Ceremonious Salutation. — Tattooing. — Ugaga. — Approach of Mirambo. — On our Defence. — Destruction of several Villages. — Ferry Charges. — A Host of Claimants. — The Malagarazi Ferry. — Sambo's Cookery. — Saltmaking. — A considerable Trade. — Liquid Snuff. — A droll Sight. — My faithful Leo dies. — A wild Beast in Camp. — Sighting Tanganyika. — Arrival at Kawele .......

Chapter XIV

Recovery of Livingstone's Papers. — Robbery of my Stores. — Punishment of a Thief. — Difficulty in sending the Journals to the East Coast. — The Traders of Kawele. — The Native Dress and Ornaments. — Their Markets. — Warundi Body-colouring. — Products of the District. — Their Currency. — Hiring Boats. — Curious Mode of Payment. — Fitting out. — I am thought "unlucky." — My Guides desert me. — " Negro Melodists." — Sailing away on the Tanganyika. — Devils' Dwellings. — Propitiating the Spirits. — Slave- Hunters .......

Chapter XV

Profitable Slave-buying. — Street Acrobats. — War-Paint. — A bad Night— Cowardly Boats' Crews.— Kabogo.— A public Entertainment. — Stealing Men's Brains. — Coal. — A Honey Demon. — A CONTENTS. XVII PAs*.E 192 215 237 254 Plague of Frogs. — Enlargement of the Lake. — Massi Kambi. — An optical Illusion. — Many Devils. — One of my Men shoots himself. — Doctors differ. — Curious Hair-Oil. — The Chief of Makukira. — His Dress. — Wives. — Dolls. — Infantine Taste for Drink. — Cotton- Manufacture. — Spread of the Slave-Trade. — The Watuta. — Cus toms and Dress. — Twins ......

Chapter XVI

The Art of Pottery. — My Men grow bolder. — Akalunga. — The Chief. — A Native Notion of Portugal. — Granaries. — Strange Mutilation by Women. — Ornaments. — The Luwaziwa. — Gorillas. — Hillside Cultivation. — Spiders. — Mosquitoes, Boils, and Sore Feet. — A Strike. — Hot-Water Spring. — Waguhha Hair-dressing. — Idols. — The Lukuga. —Return to Ujiji. — Letters from Home. — My Men indulge freely. — Arab Opinion of the Lualaba. — Fear of opposition Traders. — Bombay's Jealousy. — Cost of cutting the Sod in the Lukuga. — I give Readings. — Arson. — Domestic Jars. — More Orgies. — Off again ......

Chapter XVII

Hopeful Prospects. — Ruanda. — Copper. — Bombay's Ingenuity. — An Accident. — Last View of Tanganyika. — Dishonest Fellow- Travellers. — Meketo. — A Brutal Slave-Dealer. — Dress and Ornaments. — Weapons. — Fish-Dealers. — River-side Scenery. — Game. — Skulking Carriers. — Bowl-making. — Indiarubber. — A trying March. — Fetish Huts. — A Good Samaritan. — My Men want to turn Back. — "Making Brothers."— An Artist in Oils. — Fearful Imprecations. — Musical Instruments.— Mrs. Pakwanywa. — Perforation of Upper Lips. — Dress. — Tattooing. — Charms. — A Hot Stream. — A mixed Caravan ......

Chapter XVIII

Pakhundi.— Foundries— Dust and Ashes.— Slave-gagging.— Freedmen the harshest Masters.— Salutations.— Disobliging People.— Hair, Dress, Tattooing. — Naked People. — Natural Stomachers. — Building Operations.— No Ventilation. — Uvinza. — Clay Idols. — Carving. — Arms. — The Arabs' Kirangosi; his Impertinence. — Climbing Oil-Palms. — My Showman. — The Bambarre Mountains. Magnificent Trees. — A dark Ravine. — Manyuema. — Dress and Arms. — The Women.— Economy in Clothing. — Livingstone's Influence. — An enlightened Chief. — Dwarfs. — Musical Instruments. — Fearful Cannibals.— Dancing.— No Shooting allowed . CONTENTS. XVIII PAGE 271 285 300

Chapter XIX

The Luama. — Fisherwomen. — Shooting Hippopotami. — Open-air Granaries. — Iron. — A Burning Country.— Shameful Behaviour of Traders. — A Suspension- Bridge. — The Natives turn upon the Traders. — Contemplated Attack on the Caravan. — Two Chiefs treacherously shot. — Villages burned. — Women and Children captured. — I plead for Peace. — Influence as an Englishman. — A Palaver. — The Captives are liberated. — My Views are not appreciated. — Foundries. — Smithies. — Manyara Dress. — A Drum- Major.— The Slaving System.— The Mighty Lualaba. — Going with the Stream. — Nyangwe is reached . . . .

Chapter XX

Nyangwe. — The Headman's Harem. — Syde Mezrui is a Fraud. — A slow Set.— The Markets.— The Weaker Sex.— Their lordly Masters. — Difficulty in obtaining Canoes.— Native Opinion of the White Man. — As others see us. — An Anti-Slavery Lecture. — A clear-headed Man of Business. — An old Impostor. — No Guides. — Fighting on the Road. — Ulegga. — The Lualaba and the Nile. — Lake Sankorra. — Tipo-tipo. — Crossing the Lualaba. — A Fever Den. — Bad Quarters. — Fishing-weir Bridges. — Russuna. — A Brush with the Natives. — Blood -Money. — A Check upon Looting. — Russuna's Wives. — Not Bashful, but Inquisitive. — A State Visit. Russuna's private Village. — The Cares of a Mother-in-Law

Chapter XXI

Tipo-tipo's Camp. — Kasongo visits us in State. — The Ceremony. — Kasongo's ready Assistance. — I become a Gunsmith, Bone-setter, and Soap-boiler. — Kasongo at Home. — Sankorra Traders. — Am forbidden to proceed. — Reasons for not using Force. — I take another Route. — Warua Guides. — Export of Slaves from Manyuema. — Their Disposal. — Cause of Increase of Slave-holding. — Ants as a Delicacy. — Mode of trapping them.— A lazy Leader. — Kifuma Hospitality. — A desirable Residence.— Carved Doorposts. — A Rifle is stolen. — Fear of Consequences. — Thankfulness and Gratitude. — Leaving my "Guide" to his own Devices, I strike out a new Course. — My Men will not follow. — I will not return. — Their Scruples are overcome. — Attack on the Caravan. Fists versus Archery. — Peace. — Kasenge. — Hundreds flock to see me feed. — Kwarumba ...... CONTENTS. XIX PAGE 3'4 326

Chapter XXII

My Goat is stolen. — The Natives become hostile. — We are fired upon. — Preparing for the Worst. — An Exchange of Shots. — Wounding an important Personage. — A Parley.— Negotiations broken off. — Renewal of tbe Fighting. — Allowed to depart in Peace. — More Treachery. — At it again. — Storming a Village. — The Inhabitants bolt. — My brave Army. — Fort Dinah. — Barricades. — Prisoners of War. — We capture an Angel of Peace. — She makes it. — Leaving Fort Dinah. — An Explanation of my Intentions. — The Cause of the Attack. — Convivial Mourning. — Painted Faces. — My Guide's Craftiness. — Dried up. — Green Water as Refreshment. — My Guide meets his Mother, and forsakes me. — Reception of a Headman. — Another queer Guide.— He also bolts. — Saltmaking. — A March in a Marsh ......

Chapter XXIII

Jumab Merikani. — Coal. — A Portuguese Trader. — His Followers. — Kasongo's chief Wife. — Jose Antonio Alvez. — His History. — Warned against Mata Yafa. — Lake Mohrya. — An inquisitive Lady. — Peculiarity respecting Names. — Alvez' Habitation. — Consuming your own Smoke. — Taking Bilsil down a Peg. — Well-fortified Villages. — View of Lake Mohrya. — Huts on Piles. — An amphibious Race. — No Visitors allowed. — A spiritualistic Medium. — Skulls of old Enemies. — Urua. — Kasongo's Dominion — Its Government. — The Social Scale amongst Warua. — Mutilation for small Offences. — Kasongo professes to be a god. — His Morals. — His Family Harem. — Unfaithful Wives. — Kasongo's Bedroom Furniture. — Rule as to Fires and Cooking. — Devil- Huts and Idols.— The great Idol Priests— The Idol's Wife.— Dress and Tattoo Marks. ......

Chapter XXIV

A Fair Deceiver.— Marriage Ceremony.— The youthful but unblushing Bride. — A Mountain Gap. — Grand Thunderstorm. — Lake Kassali. — Not allowed to visit it. — Return of a Chief.— Medicine Men.— Their dress.— Ventriloquism. — They impose upon the Public. — Am suspected of possessing Power to dry up the Lake. — Narrow Escape of my Messengers.— Manufacture of Floating Islands.— Jumah Merikani's Kindness.— Strange Tales.— Lion- Tamers.— Deadly Shade.— Sculpture.— Cave Dwellings.— Poisonous Water.— A Tribe of Lepers. —My Occupations.— Kasongo's Wives. — Their shocking Behaviour.— A Performer of Tricks — CONTENTS. XX PAOE Kasongo returns.— An Afternoon Call.— His Appearance.— His Band plays me Home.— Their excruciating Performance.— They will not " move on." — My Anxiety to do so . . - 34°

Chapter XXV

A Horde of Ruffians.— A thorough Blackguard.— A King amongst Beggars. — Wives and Families visit me. — Mutilated Men. — Kasongo's Vanity.— His Message to Her Majesty.— He takes me for a Ghost.— No Guides or Escort obtainable.— Abandonment of my fondest Hope. — Honest Alvez. — He lies like Truth. — Plotting. — The Levee. — Warned and armed. — The Ceremony. — Salaams of the Chiefs. — Biting the Dust,— Speeches. — Deceit. — Sleeping with Deceased Wives.— Obliged to build Kasongo's House. — Cruelty of Portuguese Slave-Traders. — Delays.— Desertion. — Jumah Merikani sends Deserters a Warning. — Funeral Rites of a Chief. — Wives buried alive with him. — Blood shed over his Grave. — Kasongo's harsh Rule. — His demoniacal Frenzies. — Fire in Camp. — My Servant's good Conduct. — Delicate Attention of Mrs. Kasongo .... 356

Chapter XXVI

Making "Medicine" against Fire. — An elaborate Operation. — Kasongo's importunate Begging. — Disgraceful Conduct of Alvez' People. — No Mercy for the Weak. — Cringing to the Strong. — Jumah Merikani's Generosity. — The "Fiend Stream." — Strange Trees. — My Men mistake Pomb6 for Water. — Swamps and Bogs. — Many Slips. — " Sloughs of Despond." — Enormous Ant-hills. — A Monarch dreaded by his People. — Surpassing his Predecessors in Cruelty. — The Biter bit. — A welcome Present. — Playing with Firearms. — I frighten a Chief out of his Village. — Alvez' Tactics. — A new Arrival. — Endeavours to obtain Allies. — Driven to Desperation, I determine to march alone. — Result of Firmness 372

Chapter XXVII

Another Fire. — "Medicine" a delusion. — Havoc and Desolation. — Coimbra's Captures. — Unmerciful Treatment of Women.— He calls himself a Christian. — Misery and Loss of Life. — Abuse of the Portuguese Flag.— Alvez shares the Flesh and Blood. — The Lovoi. — Limit of Oil-Palms. — Composition of the Caravan. — Fire again.— Fortification of Msoa.— Mshiri.— " A very bad Man."— His Power.— His Followers.— Trade in Slaves increasing. —Its Result— Fate of the Women Slaves.— Probable Export.— CONTENTS. XXI PAGE 385 400 4-7 Gods of War. — Excessive Heat. — Our coldest Night. — Alvez loses Slaves. — His Lamentations. — Am taken for a Devil. — Mournful Procession of Slaves. — A weird Grove. — Mata Yafa. — Vivisection practised on a Woman. — Rebellion of his Sister- Wife. — Marshes. — A sumptuous Meal. — Burning a Roadway. — Lagoons. — Bee-keeping ......

Chapter XXVIII

Ulunda. — Born in Slavery. — Elephant Ragout. — Alvez dodges me. — Compelled to follow him. — The Walunda. — A dirty Race. — Curious Fare. — Returning Thanks. — Remarkably small Huts. — I drop into a Pitfall. — My Rifle gives Satisfaction. — Zebra. — A cold Dip. — Ice in August. — Lovale People pushing Eastward. — Cowardly Demeanour of Bihi Men. — Kafundango.— Escape of a Slave-Gang. — Their cruel Treatment. — Maternal Affection. — Savage Manners of Lovale Men.— Extortion. — Rudeness of Dress. — Clever Iron- Workers. — Arrow-heads and Hatchets. — Beef once again : but not for me. — Numerous Fetishes. — The Zambesi and Kassabe. — Interlocking of their Systems. — Available for Traffic. Mode of Fishing. — Katende in State. — Recollection of Livingstone. — The Legend of Lake Dilolo ....

Chapter XXIX

Joao the White Trader.— Putrid Fish.— Dishonesty of the Noble Savage. — Festive Natives. — Scanty Apparel.— Elaborate Hairdressing. — Cataracts. — Sha Kelembe. — Alvez proves fickle. — Exchanging a Wife for a Cow. — An attempted Burglary. — Baffled. — The Thief's Complaint. — Unparalleled Audacity. — Revengeful Threats. — Smelting-Furnace. — High-flavoured Provisions. — Sambo chaffs a Chief. — Forest. — A well-dressed Caravan. — Wanted, a Dairymaid. — Friendliness of Mona Peho.— A well-ventilated Suit of Clothes. — "Sham Devils." — Blacksmiths.— Am believed to be a Lunatic. — Alvez' Reputation amongst Traders. — I sell my Shirts for Food. — A Village eaten up by a Serpent. — An Eclipse. — Kanyumba's Civility. — Alvez tries to rob the Starving. — Natural Hats. — False Rumours of Fighting on the Road ........

Chapter XXX

The Kwanza.— Its Navigation.— Neat Villages.— Convivial Gathering,— A Head of Hair.— Cattle Plague.— The Kokema.— Filthy Villages. — A lively Chase.— Reception of Alvez.— Payment of c CONTENTS. PAOE his Porters.— Soap and Onions.— My ragged Crew.— Alvez cheats me at parting.— A Man in Tears.— An Archery Meeting.— A Tornado.— The Town of Kagnombe.— Its Size.— Kagnombe's Officials.— A Secretary unable to write.— Mshiri's Men.— Their Journeys from Coast to Coast.— Kagnombe's Levee.— My Seat of Honour.— Kagnombe's best Clothes.— His full Style and Title. —Strong Drink.— Fetish-Place.— Skulls.— Graves.— His Guards. —His Hat— Senhor Goncalves.— His House.— Breakfast— He tells me his History.— His Kindness and Hospitality —The Influence of Men of his Type. ...... 434

Chapter XXXI

Joao's Settlement— His official Position. — Openly trading in Slaves. — Bad Specimen of the White Man. — A Fetish Man.— Fortune-telling.— Charms.— Infallible Cures. — Arms for Kasongo. — Probable Result. — Belmont.— Miserable Work. — Buffalo Herd. — Opposition by Bihe People. — Civility of the Chiefs. — The Kutato. — An extraordinary River. — Dangerous Crossing. — Subterranean Streams. — Lungi. — Suspected of the Evil Eye. — A Fetish Man declares me Free. — Untrustworthy Postmen. — Making and mending Clothes. — A Portuguese in Pawn. — A Festival. — Drink and Debauchery. — A superior Chief. — Rheumatism. — A Glimpse of Paradise.— Visit to King Kongo. — Housed and fed by the Prime Minister's Wife. — The King's own Hut. — His Dress. — Strongly guarded. — A drunken Conference. — Pounding Corn. — My Beard excites Curiosity. — Hungry Times. — Caterpillars a Delicacy ..... 449

Chapter XXXII

My dispirited Crew. — Native Bridges. — Bad Weather. — Secure Dwellings. — Breakdown of my Men. — A Man missing. — Fallen out by the Roadside. — A fearful Night. — Searching for the Straggler. — Delay dangerous. — The Straggler arrives.— Past Recovery. — His Death and Burial. — Locusts — The Slave-Trade on the Coast. — Mode of Embarkation. — Failing Strength of my Carriers. — I throw away Tent, Boat, Bed, &c. — A Rush for the Coast — Our highest Camp.— Gay Umbrellas. — A Mulatto Settlement. — Cascades. — Numerous up Caravans. — Their Trade. — No Food left. — Search for a Camp. — Dead beat. — A tedious March. — Skeletons of Slavers' Victims. — Starvation and Exhaustion. — The Sea. — Leaving the worn-out Men behind. — The final Effort. — Scurvy attacks me. — Help. — A Good Samaritan. — A Haven of Rest ....'.... CONTENTS. XXIII

Chapter XXXIII. Page

Peace and Plenty. — Katombela. — My Illness increases. — Carried to Benguella. — Medical Advice and good Nursing. — My Recovery. — Arrival of my Stragglers. — Death of another Man. — Bombay's Objectionable Behaviour. — An original Character. — Benguella. — Its tumble-down Fort. — Convict Soldiers. — Their Loyalty. — My Men indulge too freely. — Arrival at Loanda. — Reception by the Consul. — Courtesy of the Governor. — An amusing Incident. — My Men object to their Quarters. — Preparing to send them Home. — Liberal Offers. — Purchase of a Schooner. — Fitting her out— Visit to Kisembo. — No Charts obtainable. — A Windfall. — Departure of my Crew in the Frances Cameron. — Leaving my Loanda Friends. — Homeward-bound. — Meeting old Faces. — Safe at Home ......... 485

Chapter XXXIV

Formation of the Continent. — River-Basins. — Deserts. — The Watersheds. — Zambesi. — Kongo. — Physical Geography. — Useghara Mountains. — Fertile Soil. — The Lugerengeri Valley. — The Kungwa Hills. — Gum-copal. — Timber Trees. — Fauna. — Snakes. — The Mukondokwa Valley. — Lake Ugombo. — Mpwapwa. — Barren Soil. — The Marenga Mkali. — Ugogo. — A dried-up Country. — Ziwas. — Kanyenye. — Usekhe.— Granite. — Khoko. — Vale of Mdaburu. — The "Fiery Field." — The Mabunguru.— Jiwe la Singa. — Urguru. — Unyanyembe. — A cultivated Country. — Ugunda. — Ugara. — The Kawendi Mountains. — Uvinza . . 497

Chapter XXXV

The Lake-System of Central Africa. — A Flaw in some ancient Upheaval. — Correct Position of the Tanganyika. — Kawele. — Ras Kungwe. — Kabogo Island.— Ruguvu. — Coal. — Rapid Encroachment of the Lake upon its Shores. — Formation of Cliffs. — Remains of an Inland Sea. — Makakoino Islands. — Gradual disappearance. — Constant Additions from Mainland. — Ras Musungi. — Loose Masses of Granite. — Weather-worn Cliffs. — Fantastic Forms. — Numerous Landslips. — Black Beaches. — The West of Tanganyika. — A new Geographical Region. — The Rugumba.— Black Speculum Ore. — The Kilimachio Hills. — Affluents of the Lualaba. — Underground Dwellings. — The Lualaba and Kongo. — Changes in River Channels.— Bee-Culture. — A barren Waste. —A fertile Flat ....... 5-3 CONTENTS. PAGE 527 542 549 555 559

Chapter XXXVI

Africa's Future.— Slaves and other Articles of Commerce.— Trade Routes.— Exportoflndiarubber increasing. —Internal Slave-trade. —Ivory Supply.— Products.— Sugar-canes.— Cotton.— Oil-Palm. —Coffee.— Tobacco.— Sesamum.— Castor-Oil.— The Mpafu - Tree. —Nutmegs.— Pepper.— Timber.— Rice.— Wheat— KaffirCorn. — Indian-Corn.— Indiarubber.— Copal. — Hemp.— Ivory.— Hides.— Beeswax.— Iron.— Coal.— Copper.— Gold.— Silver.— Cinnabar.— Mission Work.— Commercial Enterprise. — Establishment of Depots. — Scheme for advancing into the Interior.— Light Railways. — Steamers on Rivers.— Probable Results.— Shall Slavery continue ? — How to stamp it out and make Africa free

Chapter XXXVII

National Interests. — Conference. — Livingstone, Burton, &c. — Stanley's Descent of the Congo. — Commercial Highways. — Africans as Traders. — Annexation of the Basins of Congo and Zambesi. — Chartered Companies. — Rights of Zanzibar Traders — New Congo State. — King Leopold's Endowment. — Recruiting. — Means of Communication. — Comparative Cost of Carnage. —Saving of Money and Time. — Projected Railways. ....

Chapter Xxxviii

International Association. — Missionary Societies. — Mr. Hore. — Consul Elton. — Keith Johnston. — Masai Country. —Sanatoria. — Habitable District. — Volcanic Action. — Cameraoes. — Portuguese Travellers. — Serpa da Pinto. — Germans. — Wissmann. — Italians. — Antinori. — The Mahdi. — Ogowai. — De Brazza — English Interest in Africa ......

Chapter XXXIX

The Lukuga. — Surf. — Cill. — Vegetation. — Stanley. — His Experiments. — Sir Samuel Baker. — The Sud. — Rapid Streams. — Theories. — Filling up. — Earthquakes. — Evaporation. — Alluvial Deposits. — Trend of the Country. — Salt Districts. — Derivation of Tanganyika.— Formation of the Chain of Lakes. — River- Basins. — Unexplored Africa ...... INDEX LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Map, shoaving Author's Route In Pocket at end of Volume. 3FulI=page "plates ano jfacslmiles. Looking back over Makata Swamp .... Frontispiece Paper of Recommendation issued by Khedive (facsimile) To face p. 4 Camp at Msuavah 33 Letter from Jacob Wainwright reporting Death of Dr. Lia-ingstone (facsimile) 120 Kwiharah 126 Soko at Kawele 182 Village of Kitata, Tanganyika Lake . . . . . .205 Raavlinson Mountains 215 Crossing the Lugungwa River 245 Village in Manyuema 263 Pot-Pourri 267 Crossing the Luama River 272 Waiting for Canoes • • .282 Nyangave 284 Scene in Alvez' Boma 331 Crossing the Rovubu River 294 Crossing the Lukazi River 310 Fort Dinah 3>7 Lake Mohrya, or Realmah 331 Warua Waganga 34*5 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.