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The Exploration of Australia

Albert Frederick Calvert · 1895 · Scanned text

155,653 words · about 10 h 54 min to read

Period artwork: Interior of the Bodleian Library, 1845
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About this book

Author
Albert Frederick Calvert
Language
English
Published
1895
Length
155,653 words · about 10 h 54 min
Sections
37 reader sections
Text
Scanned text, read from page scans by OCR; may contain errors
Rights
Public Domain Mark 1.0

 

Contents (37)
  1. Front matter about 5 min
  2. Appendix about 1 min
  3. Chapter I about 25 min
  4. Chapter II about 31 min
  5. Chapter III about 18 min
  6. Chapter IV about 15 min
  7. Chapter V about 24 min
  8. Chapter VI about 16 min
  9. Chapter VII about 9 min
  10. Chapter VIII about 13 min
  11. Chapter IX about 8 min
  12. Chapter X about 22 min
  13. Chapter XII about 5 min
  14. Chapter XIII about 6 min
  15. Chapter XIV about 12 min
  16. Chapter XV about 18 min
  17. Chapter XVI about 22 min
  18. Chapter XVII about 23 min
  19. Chapter XVIII about 17 min
  20. Chapter XIX about 12 min
  21. Chapter XX about 16 min
  22. Chapter XXI about 17 min
  23. Chapter XXII about 16 min
  24. Chapter XXIII about 9 min
  25. Chapter XXIV about 8 min
  26. Chapter XXV about 9 min
  27. Chapter XXVI about 16 min
  28. Chapter XXVII about 19 min
  29. Chapter XXVIII about 12 min
  30. Chapter XXIX about 13 min
  31. Chapter XXX about 13 min
  32. Chapter XXXI about 18 min
  33. Chapter XXXII about 22 min
  34. Chapter XXXIII about 13 min
  35. Chapter XXXIV about 12 min
  36. Chapter XXXV about 12 min
  37. Chapter XXXVI about 2 h 6 min

Continue:

Front matter

The Exploration of Australia From 1844 to 1896. Zbe B^ploration of Bustralta From 1844 to 1896. BY Hlbett ss. Calvert, XonDon : GEORGE PHILIP & SON, 33, FLEET STREET. ILlverpool : 45 to 51, SOUTH CASTLE STREET. 1896. E. GOODMAN A SON, PHŒNIX PRINTING WORKS, NORTH STREET, TAUNTON. TO THE IRigbt 1bon. Josepb Cbamberlatn, SECRETARY OF STATE FOR HER MAJESTY'S COLONIES; WHOSE STATESMANSHIP HAS WON FOR HIM THE CONFIDENCE OF THE BRITISH NATION, Œbis Book is ©eofcateo, WITH MUCH RESPECT BY Ube Hutbor. flireface /J\® booft:-"dbc Exploration of Hustralta, from its first btscoverp till tbe pear t846," is alreabv. before tbe public ; anb bas been recelveb witb more favour tban 5 coulo bave bopeb for, botb in tbe TKuiteo TCingbom anb tbe Colonies. XLbe subject being as wibe as tbe great 3slanb Continent itself, 3 was compelleb to btvtbe mg worfc into two periobs, anb in tbe present IDolume 3 bave enbeavoureb to give a true account of tbe Ejploratorv.

Enterprises wbicb bave been unbertafcen from tbe bate of Dr. Xubwig SLeicbarbt's bisastrous journey, till tbe unfortunately abanboneb Elber Ejpebition, conbucteb bv. flbr. Davib Xinbsas. So mucb for Exploration in tbe past. Zbe routes of tbe various Explorers of bggone baps are laib bown in tbeir maps anb cbarts ; ano tbe results are in tbe banbs of tbe various (Beograpbical Societies. 3n some cases, it will be seen tbat tbe benefits gaineb by tbe beroic ejertions of tbe men wbo risfceb— anb in mans cases laib bown— tbeir lives, in unfolbing tbe masteries of tbe Sustralian Continent, are sablv. bisproportioneb to tbe courage . preface. anb sfttll btsplaseb, anb tbe privations enbureb. Some bao costlv. outfits, pet onls founb barren oeserts ; wbile otbers, tbougb poorls equippeb, biscovereb magnificent pastoral anb agricultural lanbs, bounteously supplieb witb laftes anb streams.

Sucb are tbe fortunes of war in tbe great fielb of Exploration. 5n ms last cbapter it will be observeb tbat 3 bave ventureb to foresbaoow tbe future Exploration of Hustralia. XTbe incluoeb map, prepareb bv. tbe Soutb Hustralian Brancb of tbe (Beograpbical Society of Hustralia, illustrates mv. object. 3t will be noteb tbat large areas set remain unexploreb; anb 3 am at present fitting out a Scientific Exploring Expebition, so tbat tbese regions mas not remain as now— practicalls "terra incognita." Cbe unmapped districts all lie witbin tbe bounoaries of Western anb Soutb Hustralia— tbe greater proportion being in tbe former. fl&S scbeme is fulls set fortb in Cbapter 36. trusting tbat ms besign will meet witb success, anb tbat tbis recoro of tbe achievements of Hustralian Explorers will merit a measure of approval, 3 seno fortb tbis Dolume. 5t goes witbout sasing, tbat 3 am, in some begree, inbebteb to previous writers on tbe same subject.

Appendix

. Sir Thomas Mitchell's Last Expedition. Extract of Mr. Walter Bagot's Letter ... ... ... ... ... 325 Leichardt's Fate 326 Poison Plants ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 330 Ladies' Leichardt Search Expedition ... ... ... ... 331 Probable Fate of Leichardt ... ... ... ... ... ... 332 Robert O'Hara Burke's Notes 333 The Nardoo Plant... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 335 Sensations of Starving 336 The Last Letter of W. J. Wills to his Father, entrusted to John King 337 Rescue of King 338 Summarised Narrative of John King, Sole Survivor of the PARTY OF FOUR (BURKE, WlLLS AND Gray), WHO TRAVELLED from Cooper's Creek to Carpentaria, i6th December, 1860, AND RETURNED 2IST APRIL, l86l 34O Rescue of King 347 Burke and Wills' Expedition. Liberality of the Victorian Government Contents. page. XIV Stuart's Tree marked J. M. D. S 349 Water Trees ... ... ••• ■•• ••• ••• ••• ••• 35° Port Essington and Raffles Bay 351 Escape Cliffs 352 Camels 353 Letter from Col. Warburton to the Hon. Thomas Elder, entrusted to Mr. Lewis ... ... ... ... ... 355 Col. Warburton on Camel Meat.

Proceedings of the Royal Geographical Society, Vol. xix., p. 45 356 Extract from Colonel Warburton's Speech before the Royal Geographical Society 356 Professor Owen on Australia 359 Ayers Rock (from the Journal of W. C. Gosse) 360 Interview with Mr. David Lindsay 361 Mr. David Lindsay in Adelaide ... ... ... ... 362 Mr. Lindsay's Latest Report 364 Extract from the Journal of the Elder Exploring Expedition, 1891 366 Natives 372 Summary of Work Done 373 Unprecedented Heat in Australia 375 The Recent "Heat Wave" in Australia: — An Unparalleled Record 376 Terrible Record at Bourke. Ten Deaths Caused 378 A Lonely Death from Thirst 378 The Agonies of Thirst. A Terrible Experience 378 The Calvert Scientific Exploring Expedition

Chapter I

Leichardt's First Expedition P till 1844, the task of unravelling the mysteries of the great Australian Continent was committed to men of the British race, as recorded in my first volume. It is now my duty to chronicle the exploits of the first explorer of foreign birth who entered the field. Dr. Ludwig Leichardt was a German by birth, although he had become — through his associations — an Englishman by adoption. He was a distinguished botanist, geologist, and astronomer, and had already shown his capabilities as an explorer, by making a journey overland to Moreton Bay, besides many excursions throughout the districts lying beyond the Darling. He was born in Baskow, near Berlin, and, having made his escape from the three years' compulsory military service, he was condemned as a deserter in contumaciam.

His services to science, however, having been represented to the King of Prussia by Von Humboldt, he was pardoned for the offence ; but his untimely death prevented his availing himself of his Sovereign's clemency. The command of the expedition now to be described naturally devolved upon him as being the best man available. The project was formed owing to the following circumstances : — Australia's northern coast had been pronounced un inhabitable, settlements on Melville Island and Raffles Bay having B proved abortive. Still, for the security of vessels threading the Torres Straits, the Home Government resolved on establishing a military post at Arnhem's Land. Port Essington had already been tried and given up in 1823 ; still, it was determined to form a settlement there at all costs. Hence Sir Gordon Bremer, in 1831, founded a town on the Bay, which was named Port Victoria.

Thus far having been accomplished, it was ardently desired that an overland route should be discovered between the new settlement and Moreton Bay ; for, if this could be found, Port Victoria would probably develop into a valuable trade depot on the line of connection between Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide, and the Islands of the East Indies. Such, at least, was the opinion at the time. The Legislative Council thereupon voted a thousand pounds towards the expenses of an overland expedition, and a further considerable sum was raised by private subscription. Many of the Colonists had grave forebodings regarding the success of the expedition ; but their doubts do not seem to have been in any degree shared by Leichardt, to whom such an undertaking offered the strongest fascination. He was brimming over with an adventurous spirit of enterprise and discovery ; besides which, the journeys he had already made, and the privations he had endured, made him feel perfectly confident as to the issue.

Accordingly, on the 13th of August, 1844, the party set out from Sydney. The leader was accompanied by Messrs. James Calvert, John Roper, and John Murphy — the latter a lad of sixteen, William Phillips — a convict, and Harry Brown — a native; making in all six persons. They travelled by steamer to Brisbane, where the party was augmented by Messrs. Pemberton, Hodgson, and Gilbert — the latter a zoologist. They also enlisted the services of Caleb — a negro, and Charley — another native. On starting from the outskirts of civilisation on the 1st of October, 1844, the party consisted of ten individuals ; and they had with them sixteen head of cattle, seventeen horses, two hundred pounds of sugar, eighty pounds of tea, twenty pounds of gelatine, and twelve hundred pounds of flour. Their stores were so ample, indeed, at the outset that the pack saddles were overloaded, and all had to travel on foot.

They had likewise an abundant supply of ammunition — relying on their guns and the cattle for their supply of animal food. Having left Jimbour on the Darling Downs, they travelled in a north-west direction, and formed their first encampment after crossing Jimba Creek, and Waterloo Plains. Passing through plains of scrub, which much obstructed their progress, and skirting lagoons full of shell-fish and Murray cod, they pushed on in a south-west direction. On the 7th, they arrived at the Condamine River, the banks of which were covered with verdure, and many signs of aboriginals were noted. Dense scrub still hindered their progress, and they were often obliged to take to the river-bed in order to make headway. Leaving the Condamine, which took a westerly course, they steered northward. For a time the travelling was good, and the country fertile ; but they soon found them selves in a horrible, swampy, waterless district, surrounded on all sides with brigalow scrub.

Having encamped on the 8th, however, they came upon a creek at a distance of two miles, and a beautiful valley which led to open country. A chain of lagoons intercepted them, after skirting which they reached flat plains, and then more scrub. This next thicket they tried in vain to penetrate, and had to return to the nearest lagoon ; meantime having lost a tent and a quantity of flour, besides seriously damaging their pack saddles. Heavy rains now completely arrested their advance for ten days ; during which time, however, Hodgson's Creek was discovered in the course of a short reconnoitreing trip. Leichardt was likewise much troubled and impeded by the conduct of the blacks, who had to be expelled from the party, but were subsequently re-admitted on promise of amendment. They now continued on a north-west course, passing below the northern watershed of the Condamine.

From thence, they passed many creeks; Acacia and Dogwood Creeks were thus named, and the country was found to be well grassed, but thickly covered with scrub. It soon became evident to Leichardt that their stock of provisions would prove quite inadequate at their present slow rate of progress. Two men (Mr. Hodgson, and Caleb the negro) were therefore sent back with despatches, thus somewhat lessening their number. The daily allowance of the eight travellers was now fixed at six pounds of flour per. day with three pounds of dried beef, " perfectly sufficient to keep up our strength," says Leichardt in his journal. I should rather think it was ! Travelling along the tableland, from whence sprung the Condamine River, they came upon a fine stream, which was named the Dawson. Down this they journeyed until the 14th November, their advance being much impeded by dense, scrubby thickets.

About the 25th parallel of latitude this river took an easterly course, and the leader resolved to abandon the stream, and travel north-west. They eventually reached a tributary of the Dawson ; but, on pressing forward, found the scrub an impassable barrier. Whereupon, Leichardt ordered a halt, and went forward alone to investigate. At length a passage was discovered, and Gilbert's and Lynd's Ranges were given their respective names. Until the 25th November they followed the course of Robinson's Creek, when they came upon a dividing range, which, having ascended, they reached another which was higher, and was named Expedition Range. This they climbed two days later, and from its summit had a view of some fine mountains, two of the highest peaks being named Mounts Nicholson and Aldis. Leichardt was charmed with this prospect, hoping to find, as he says, new rivers and rich lands under their shadows and on their slopes.

Here I pause for a moment to claim the reader's indulgence. Leichardt's narrative is most monotonous and uninteresting. His own details are bald and meagre, consisting very largely of botanical and other information, which, however valuable from a scientific point of view, would prove dry and distasteful to the general reader. This fact becomes more and more forced upon me as I wade through the traveller's journal, which, although the record of a splendid and notable achievement, is singularly devoid of incident and interest. I shall, then, endeavour to condense the salient facts of the journey into as small compass as is consistent with fair treatment of this heroic explorer's arduous journey, which extended to about 3,000 miles, and lasted 18 long months. To continue: on the 5th of December, Bigge's Mountain was dis covered and named ; and a few days later Christmas Ranges.

On the 15th, the party encamped by Brown's Lagoons, where they stayed until the 22nd, meantime killing and drying the flesh of a steer. Having moved on, a box flat was named Albinia Downs, and a creek, Comet Creek, because at this point was first seen the wonderful comet of 1844. Tracing the course of the creek downwards, natives were seen, but decamped in terror from the travellers, warning one another by calling out "White-fellow!" It is evident they had previously seen, and probably suffered at the hands of Europeans. About this time, Leichardt was lost in the bush for a couple of days, accompanied by the black boy Charlie. Fortunately, they regained the main party, having suffered pretty severely from hunger and anxiety. Leichardt should have remembered this, and profited by the lesson.

The devious course of Comet Creek was, it appears, very perplexing to the travellers. At length, however, they emerged on a fine, broad river, into which it flowed. It was not really flowing, by the way, but there were many reaches in which water lay, several miles long, and a hundred and fifty yards broad. This stream was named the Mackenzie River. Until the 14th they followed its course, and noticed, at its junction with another river, seams of coal shale running through sandstone rocks. It being evident that the Mackenzie's course would take them too far to the eastward, they left it, and proceeded in a N.W. direction. Soon afterwards they formed an encampment, and Leichardt went forward with a native to reconnoitre. Having sent the guide back with instructions to his party, he rode towards some hills in the distance.

Ascertaining that progress was feasible in this direction, he essayed to return to the camp. He again lost his way, and only after three days of wandering and starvation succeeded in joining his comrades. Making a slow advance, intercepted by numerous creeks, bogs, and scrubs, they at length reached a table-land, out of which rose single high hills, which were named Roper's, Scott's, and McArthur's Peaks — the main range being called Peak Range. The valleys were, however, almost destitute of water, and it was only on the 2nd of February that the main body were able to encamp between Scott's and Roper's Peaks, where a scanty supply of water was discovered. After a short stay, they moved northward, sometimes crossing basaltic ridges covered with verdure, and often creeks separated by scrubby flats.

Phillips Mountain was discovered and named; also Hughes, and Tombstone Creeks. The latter received its odd title by reason of its course lying amid large blocks of sandstone, squared like gravestones, which made the glen resemble a cemetery. At least, Leichardt says so. Still advancing northward, lagoons were found in lat. 220 20'. There was also a dry river, which was named the Isaacs. Having ascended a range named Coxen's Range, Leichardt scanned the surrounding country. All around him were mountains, save to the south, which was level to the horizon. On the 28th February, having dried their beef and moved their camp, and suffered from scarcity of water on the journey, they entered a fertile and picturesque country, inhabited by natives whose demeanour was most friendly and communicative.

Reaching the head of the Isaacs River, they advanced, and, after a short journey, came upon a creek, which was called the Suttor River. Having followed the course of the Suttor in a S.S.W. direction, on the 17th March, Leichardt discovered a fine lake in its channel, which afterwards became much wider. Suddenly, however, the water disappeared, with the exception of small pools separated by two or three miles. After travelling a dozen miles or so, the Suttor re-appeared in its old character. In lat. 200 49' the stream was joined by another one, called the Cape. On the 28th, they halted near a high hill, which was sighted and named Mount McConnel. A few miles further on, the Suttor mingled its waters with another stream flowing N.W., which was named the Burdekin. Travelling along its course was no easy matter, and, moreover, the surrounding scenery was of quite a different kind from any hitherto met with.

Leichardt was surprised. He seems to have forgotten that he was within the tropics. Of course it was a tropical country, with palm trees and bamboos ; and yet, curiously enough, almost devoid of game. They saw no natives in this neighbourhood, although it seemed well fitted for the habitation of man. On the 18th of April the ranges were reached, which had been for several days in view, and they continued on a N.W. course. Several tributary rivers were discovered between this date and the end of April, among others the Clarke and the Perry. Leichardt and his men were now about lat. 19°, and it seemed doubtful whether they would be able to reach even the head of the Burdekin. Towards the beginning of May, however, it was evident that a table-land, which they managed to reach, formed the watershed between this river and others to the northward.

Having found a passage through the range, they crossed it with considerable difficulty, subsequently discovering Big Ant-hill and Separation Creeks. After a laborious and long-continued search among the valleys for a stream which would lead them to the north-west, Leichardt at length discovered a chain of ponds, which gave promise of being the head of a river, flowing in the desired direction. It was named the Lynd. Still, for several days their advance was much hindered by the rocks and boulders which fringed its banks. At last a gap was reached, which led them into sandy flats. Having halted to kill a bullock, they were molested by hundreds of ravenous kites, whose demands were not to be denied ; for we are told that they would actually swoop down and tear a piece of meat off the fork as it was being lifted to the traveller's mouth.

About this time occurred the anniversary of Her Majesty Queen Victoria's birthday, an account of the celebration of which I quote from Leichardt's journal, partly because it forms a break in a dry, monotonous narrative, and also because it gives an insight into the peculiar meta physical bent of the explorer's mind. The record runs thus : — " May 24th : It was the Queen's birthday ; and we celebrated it with what — as our only remaining luxury — we were accustomed to call a ' fat-cake,' made of four pounds of flour and some suet, which we had saved for the express purpose, and with a pot of sugared tea. We had for several months been without sugar, with the exception of about ten pounds, which was reserved for cases of illness, and for festivals. So necessary does it appear to human nature to interrupt the monotony of life by marked days on which we indulge in recollections of the past, or in meditations on the future, that we all enjoyed those days, as much and even more, than when surrounded with all the blessings of civilised society, although I am free to admit that ' fat-cake ' and sugared tea in prospectu might induce us to watch with more eagerness for the approach of these days of feasting.

There were besides several other facts interesting to the psychologist which exhibited the influence of our solitary life, and the unity of our purpose on our minds. During the early part of our journey, I had been carried back in my dreams to scenes of recent date, and into the society of men with whom I had lived shortly before starting on my expedition. As I proceeded on my journey, events of earlier date returned into my mind with all the fantastic associations of a dream, and scenes of England, France, and Italy passed successively. Then came the recollections of my University life, of my parents, and the members of my family ; and at last the days of boyhood, and of school — at one time as a boy afraid of the look of the master; and now with the independent feelings of a man communicating to and discussing with him the progress of my journey, the courses of the rivers I had found, and the possible advantages of my discoveries.

At the latter part of the journey I had, as it were, retraced the whole course of my life, and I was now in my dreams almost invariably in Sydney, canvassing for support, and imagining that, although I had left my camp, yet that I should return with new resources to carry us through the remainder of our journey. It was very remarkable that almost all my companions were invariably anticipating the end of our journey, dreaming that they had reached the sea coast, and met with ships ; or that they were in Port Essington, and enjoying the pleasures of civilized life, whilst I, on awakening, found my party and my interest in the place where I had left them in my dreams." This latter fact may, I think, be accounted for by the fact that, as leader of the expedition, Leichardt felt a sort of paternal solicitude for the safety of his companions, whereas each of the subordinate members of the party naturally enough confined his thoughts to his own ultimate safety, and longed for release from the irksome bondage of fatigue and privation.

Leichardt's sentiments compare unfavourably with those of his predecessors. Nevertheless, down the course of the Lynd they pursued their way, for a time meeting with no serious obstacles. On the 3rd of June, ranges and chasms barred their path, and Leichardt tells us his men began to grumble and lose heart. It is little wonder. He encouraged them to persevere, however, and in lat. 160 30', a fine stream was reached, which was named the Mitchell. Its course was followed until the 25th, when they found themselves in lat. 150 51'. The leader now turned west wards, and for a time their path lay through fertile plains of grass, interspersed occasionally by creeks and thickets. Here I have to chronicle one of those terrible tragedies which shed a lurid glare over the pages of Australian exploration.

It was the evening of the 28th of June, and the travellers had encamped in one of these thickets — chosen by way of protection from the wind, and security from the natives. A most unwise and imprudent selection, as it turned out ; and what made matters worse, no night watch was kept. I now quote from Leichardt's journal — the following being perhaps the most interesting pages which it contains : — " Our fireplace was made outside the trees on the banks. Brown had shot six whistling ducks and four teals, which gave us a good dinner, during which the principal topic of conversation was our probable distance from the sea coast, as it was here that we first found broken sea shells of the genus Cytherea. After dinner Messrs. Roper and Calvert retired to their tent, and Mr. Gilbert, John, and Brown were plaiting palm leaves to make a hat.

I stood musing near their fireplace looking at their work, and occasionally joining in their conversation. Mr. Gilbert was congratulating himself on having succeeded in learning to plait ; and when he had nearly plaited a yard he retired with John to their tent. This was about seven o'clock, and I stretched myself upon the ground, as usual, at a little distance from the fire, and fell into a doze — from which I was suddenly roused by a loud noise and a call for help from Calvert and Roper. Natives had suddenly attacked us. Doubtless, they had watched our movements during the afternoon, and marked the position of the different tents. As soon as it was dark they sneaked down upon us, and threw a shower of spears at the tents of Calvert, Roper and Gilbert ; and a few at that of Phillips, and also one or two towards the fire.

Charley and Brown called for (percussion) caps, which I hastened to find; and as soon as they were provided they discharged their guns into the crowd of natives, who instantly fled, leaving Roper and Calvert pierced with several spears, and severely beaten by their waddies. Several of these spears were barbed, and could not be extracted without difficulty. I had to force one through the arm of Roper to break off the barb, and to cut another out of the groin of Mr. Calvert. John Murphy had succeeded in getting out of the tent, and concealed himself behind a tree, whence he fired at the natives, and severely wounded one of the blacks before Brown had discharged his gun. Not seeing Mr. Gilbert I asked for him, when Charlie told me that my unfortunate companion was no more. He had come out of his tent with his gun, shot, and powder, and handed them to him, when he instantly dropped down dead.

Upon receiving this afflicting intelligence, I hastened to the spot, and found Charlie's account too true. He was lying on the ground at a little distance from our fire, and, upon examining him, I soon found to my sorrow that every sign of life had disappeared. His body was, however, still warm, and I opened the veins of both arms, as well as the temporal artery, but in vain. The stream of life had stopped, and he was numbered with the dead. "As soon as we had recovered from the panic into which we were thrown by this sad event, every precaution was taken to prevent another surprise. We watched through the night, and extinguished our fires to conceal our individual position from the natives. "A strong wind blew from the southward, which made the night air distressingly cold ; it seemed as if the wind blew through our bodies.

Under all the circumstances that had happened, we passed an anxious night, in a state of most painful suspense as to the fate of our still surviving companions. Mr. Roper had received two or three spear wounds in the scalp of his head : one spear had passed through his left arm, another into his cheek below the bone, penetrated the orbit and injured the optic nerve. Likewise, another in his loins, besides a heavy blow on the shoulder. Mr. Calvert had received several severe blows from a waddy : one on the nose, which had crushed the nasal bone ; one on the elbow, and another on the back of the hand ; besides which a barbed spear had entered his groin, and another pierced his knee. As may readily be imagined, both suffered great pain, and were scarcely able to move. The spear that terminated poor Gilbert's existence had entered the chest between the clavicle and the neck, but made so small a wound that for some time I was unable to detect it.

From the direction of the wound, he had probably received the spear when stooping to leave his tent. "The dawning of the next morning, the 29th, was gladly welcomed, and I proceeded to examine and dress the wounds of my companions more carefully than I had been able to do in the darkness of the night. "Very early in the morning we heard the cooees of the natives, who seemed wailing as if one of their number was either killed or severely wounded, for we found stains of blood on the tracks. They disappeared, however, very soon, for on reconnoitreing about the place, I saw nothing of them. I interred the body of our ill-fated companion in the afternoon, and read the funeral service of the English Church over him. A large fire was afterwards made over the grave, to prevent the natives from detecting and disinterring the body.

Our cattle and horses fortunately had not been molested." This terrible disaster filled Leichardt with dismay and sorrow. No wonder; for the leader could scarcely fail to blame himself for his lack of vigilance and foresight. Very rightly he decided that his safest course now lay in reaching their destination as soon as possible. The wounded men, we read, suffered great agony in being moved, but there remained no other alternative. To his credit be it said, Leichardt acted wisely on this occasion. Taking a south-west course round the Gulf of Carpentaria, on the 7th of July, they crossed the river marked on the Dutch charts as the Staten, and on the 9th they forded the Van Diemen. Rather a singular incident occurred on the evening of the 7th, which may be noticed in passing, since it forms a somewhat ludicrous passage in a narrative the sameness of which is scarcely the fault of the explorer.

It was in the dusk — " 'tween the gloamin' and the mirk" — and Charlie had brought the horses into camp. Suddenly, the form of an aboriginal was observed, gliding like a ghost through the trees. He walked directly to the fire, taking no notice of anyone. John saw him first and called out, ' A black-fellow ! Look there, a black-fellow ! ' I again quote from Dr. Leichardt's journal : — " In an instant every gun was ready. But the stranger was unarmed and evidently unconscious of his position ; for when he saw himself suddenly surrounded by the horses and ourselves, he nimbly climbed a tree to its very summit, where he stood between some dry branches like a strange phantom or a statue. We called to him, and made signs for him to descend ; but he not only remained silent, but motionless, notwith standing all the signs and noise we made.

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