India: the land and the people, etc

Front matter

India > The Land and the People. INDIA, THE LAND AND THE PEOPLE. 11 SIR JAMES CAIED, K.C.B., LL.D., F.R.S. WITH MAP OF /M'J-I ffhtrii ff=5itian. CASSELL & COMPANY, Limited LONDON, J'AJtIS ft NSW TORS list. 4LL illOHTS REHKnVKIl.l 3"o The Right Honourable SIR LOUIS MALLET, Late Under Secretary of State for India. My dear Mallet, With your permission I dedicate to you this book on India and its People, with a warm acknowledgment of the valuable assistance you have readily afforded me in the consideration of questions which for the last twelve years have engaged your constant attention. Believe me, Sincerely yours, JAMES CAIRD. 3, St. James's Square, Oct. 1883.

Preface

. After the great famine in India of 1876-7, the author was invited by the Marquis of Salisbur}', then Secretary of State for India, to become a member of the Famine Commission, which was appointed by Her Majesty's Government to inquire into the whole circum stances of that calamity, with a view to the adoption of such means as might enable timely provision to be made to meet the inevitable recurrence, in that country, of seasons of dearth. The inquiry embraced the whole of India, and its results were embodied in the Report of the Commission, which has been laid before Parliament. In traversing the country with the Members of the Commission, men eminent in their respective provinces, and two of them native gentlemen holding high office under native Princes, an unusually favourable opportunity for observation of the Land and the People was afforded. Whatever, at the time, appeared worthy of note was recorded in the author's note-book. And much was seen

PREFACE.

. VIII by a fresh eye, accustomed to seek reasons for diversity of systems affecting the prosperity of those engaged in the cultivation of the land, which is the chief business of the people of India. The author desires to take the reader with him over the same course, from the outset of his journey at Southampton to his arrival in India, and thence over its various provinces. In the final chapters some special features of the policy which should be kept in view in our dealings with India are set forth, and certain main principles also which the author recommended in regard to the treatment of famine, on which the Commission were not fully agreed. The chapter on Egypt in a previous Edition has been withdrawn to make room for the author's recommendations, in his Special Report, to Her Majesty's Government, respecting the future policy to be adopted in India.

The author desires here to express his obligations to his colleagues on the Famine Commission, and their very able Secretary, Mr. C. A. Elliott, for the valuable assistance he received from them in his inquiries while in India. 3, St. James's Square, September, 1884, CONTENTS. PAGE PAGE Map. Wheat-Sowing in the Taptee Valley 23 Dedication iii Nerbudda Valley— Jubbulpore . 24 Allahabad 25 Preface v Money - Lenders compared with English 26

Chapter I

Fine Crops in Gangetic Plain . 2" Cawnpore, the " Well " . • 28 THE VOYAGE OUT. Agriculture of Neighbourhood . 29 Gibraltar 2 Irrigation Management ... 30 Arrangements on Board . 3 Sun-dried Cakes of Cow-dung for Fuel 31 Malta, Fortifications, Palace, and Church ..... 4 An Agricultural Village . . 31 Port Said 6 Experimental Government Farm . 32 Suez Canal 7 Parliamentary Opposition to it in 1858 .'.... 9

Chapter III

The Gulf of Suez .... 9 THE NOETH-WEST PEOVIXCES. Indigo and Opium . . . .10 Nubia . . . ... .12 Agra ...... 33 Aden 13 Palace of Akbar .... 34 The Indian Ocean . . . . 14 The Pearl Mosque .... 35 Evenings at Sea .... 14 The Taj 35 Contrast of the Present with the Past 36

CHAPTER II.

Gaols Overflowing from Scarcity of BOMBAY TO CAWNPOEE. Food 37 The Streets, Market, Sacred Tank 15 Silent Sufferers .... 38 Cotton Mill, and People employed 16 Suicide Common .... 39 Malabar Hill 17 Prison Management at Agra . . 39 Caves of Elephanta ... 18 Deserted City of Futtapur Sekri . 40 Native Ornaments sold for Food . 19 Women at the Well . . .41 Payment of Rent in Kind . . 20 An Indian Village . . . .42 Native Villages, and Cattle . . 21 Indigo Plantation . . . .42 Ascent of the Ghats ... 22 Natural Drainage blocked by Canal Embankments .... 44 Nasick, the Godaveiy ... CONTENTS. X PAGE PAGE Two Women Grinding at the Mill 72 Protection Afforded by Ganges and Jumna Canals . . . .45 A Deserted City ... 72 Ajmere, its Situation and Temples 74 Little Improvement in Condition of Cultivators .... 46 May o College for Youths of Princely Birth 74 Scotch United Presbyterian Mission 75

Chapter IV. The Punjab

Sambre Salt Lake, Supply Unlimited 76 Abolition of Hedge or Customs Line 76 Bhurtpore and Johdpore . . 76 Native and European Pay . 47 Indian Forest Management . . 76 Lahore ...... 48 Plan of Equalising Assessment . 77 Rent and Agriculture ... 49 British Officers too much Confined to Desk -Work . . 78 A Punjab Farm, Food of People . 50 The Sikhs 51 Thus Unable to acquire Knowledge of the People .... 78 Profitable Mode of Investment . 52 Village at Gujranwala . . .52 Characteristics of People . . 79 Wheat- Sowing . . . .53 Cultivable Waste .... 54 Money-Lender and Cultivator . 55

Chapter VI

Museum at Lahore ... 56 Umritsur, Water-logged Land . 56 OUDH. Missionary Enterprise ... 57 Lucknow 80 The Native Collectors ... 58 Talookdars of Oudh ... 81 Kappurtulla, a Native State . . 58 Hurdwar, Head of Ganges Canal . 60 Their Embarrassments and Cure . 82 Excellent Management of Mahara j ah of Balrampur .... 83 Snow Melted Water too cold for Growing Crops in Summer . . 61 Too little Freedom left to Provincial Governments 84 Engineers' College .... 62 Workshops at Roorkee ... 62 Famine Relief Works only for the Strong and Able Bodied . . 84 Delhi, the Siege .... 63 Kootub, the Highest Tower in the World 64 Troops of People coming to City to Market So Beauty of Country round Delhi 65 Talookdar of District . . .85 Details of Market Farm . . .65 Grass-Cutters and their Pay . . 85 Native Judges .... 66 Cultivator, his Crops, and his Well 86 Price of Fuel 67 Evening Meal for the Cattle . . 87 Use of Cow-Dung for Fuel Justified 87

CHAPTER V.

A Brahmin Boy .... 87 A Dissatisfied Suitor 8S NATIVE STATES. The House of a Rajah ... 88 Ulwar, a Native State, its People . 67 Farm beautifully Cultivated . . 89 Jeypore 68 Travelling by Palki Dawk . . 89 The City and Palace ... 69 Fyzabad aud Neighbourhood . 90 The Roads aud Irrigation . . 71 Better Prospects ... qq CONTENTS. XI PAGE PAGE Dinapore and Patna, rich Country 108 Crossing the Ganges — Derbunga . 109 Famine Relief Work by Planting Roadsides with Mango and other Fruit-Trees . . . .109 Extension of Railways in Favourable Localities . . . .109 View of Mount Everest, 29,000 feet high Ill Women doing the Heavy Work . Ill Sonthal, Summary Payment of Debts Ill Burdwan and its Rice Fields . .

Ill Villagers with Four Years' Store of Rice 112 No Poor Law and no Poor . .113 Village Communities check Subdivision ..... 114 Calcutta : the Cathedral . . 115 Eastern Bengal very Rich Country 1 1 .3 Grandeur of River at Junction of Ganges with Brahmapootra . 115 Liveliness and Beauty of Scene . 116 Alluvial Land in the Valley of the Brahmapootra double the Extent of the Cultivated Land of Egypt 117 Capable of Absorbing the Surplus of Bengal 117 Three Coolies equal iu Work to one European 118 Extension of Jute Cultivation has Lessened area of Food . .118 Dacca and its Neighbourhood . 119 Union of small Holders against Landlords 120 Salt Tax equal to a Sevenpenny Income Tax on the poorest Family 121 Abundance of Fish in Rivers . . 121 Ingenious mode of Carrying Brittleware 122 BackergungesweptbyStorm-Wave 122 Calcutta : the City aud People . 123 The Park and Public Monuments . 124 Interference of Secretaries of Government deprecated ... 91 Neither Parliament nor Public Opinion to criticise Departments 91 The sub-Himalayan Plain conveniently Supplied with Water . 92 Special Products capable of Development 92 Adjudija, the Birthplace of the great Hindu Prophet ... 93 Benares the Holy City ... 93 A Rajah's Views of English Rule . 94 Would prohibit Exports of Food in time of Famine . . . .95 Hindu Castes 95 Rapid Drive to Ghazeepore . . 97 Fine, well-cultivated Country . 97 Opium Station and Factory . . 98 Tobacco Plantation and Factory . 99 Cost of Growth and Manufacture . 100 Jhansi, its distressed Condition . 100 Fifty Years hence . . . .101

Chapter VII. Benoax

Number of Ryots under Ten Shillings of Rental .... 101 Cost to the Government of Permanent Settlement .... 102 Interests of Cultivators overlooked 102 Rent and Wages . . . .102 Estate profitably Reclaimed from Jungle 102 Simple but Effective Sugar Mills . 103 Small Farmers better off than English Agricultural Labourers . 103 The Mohawah Tree and its Fruit . 104 The Soane Canal . . . .104 Skilful and Industrious Villagers . 104 Opinions of an old British Resident 105 Collector here Governs Two Million Subjects .... 107 The Siege of Arrah . . . CONTENTS. PAGE PAGE Decline of Land Revenue from Sub-Division of Property . . 138

Chapter VIII

Peculiar System of Entail in Native States on Western Coast to prevent Sub-Division . . . 138 madeas. The Hooghly and Bay of Bengal . 125 Vizigapatam, Primitive Boats . 125 Gay Processions on a Feast-Day . 126 Madura — Christian Missions . . 139 Coimbatore — High Price of Land which has Right of Water . . 141 Rent paid by Cultivators to Landowners ..... 126 Collector's District larger than Denmark ..... 126

Chapter IX

Coconada, Seaport of Canals and Irrigation Works of Godavery . 127 ootacamtt: WYXAAP — 1TTS0BE.

Beauty of the River at its Gorge . 127 Ascent of 8,000 Feet from the Plain 141 Extent, Quality, and Government Profit on Godavery Works . 128 Coffee Plantations at 4,000 up to 6,000 Feet 142 The Kistna and its Irrigation . 128 Buckingham Canal, 400 Miles Boat Communication with Madras . 128 The Convalescent Barracks . . 142 "Ooty" and its pleasant Neighbourhood 142 Madras, the new Harbour . . 129 Chinchona Plantation, Cost and Profit 143 The Coast for many Miles suitable for landing Cargo by Lighters, except in Gales at the Monsoon . 129 Wynaad Gold Field . . .144 Appearance of City from the Sea . 129 The People who do not Change are the Peasants .... 145 Extent, Proportion Irrigated . 130 System of Land Tenure . . . 131 Subjection of the Women . . 145 Collectorates too Large in Extent . 131 An Aboriginal Race, Wives with several Husbands . . . 145 Sydapet Experimental Farm . . 132 Its Instructive Lessons . . . 133 Fearful Destitution during the Famine 146 Effects of Cattle Manure in its Natural State compared with its Ashes 134 The City of Bangalore in Mysore . 146 In this State One-seventh of People Died of Famine . . . .147 Afternoon Party Five Miles from City 135 Experimental Farming, Good Returns 147 Canals of the Cauvery as Described by the Duke of Wellington, 1804 135 Erroneous Principle of Government Assessment . . . 148 Erode to Trichinopoly . . . 136 View from the Rock of the Cauvery and its Affluents .... 136 Fine Farming in Penar and Palar Valleys 148 Its System the most Ancient, most Extensive, and most Profitable in India 136 Vellore, its Fort, Temple, and Mosque 149 Excellent Prison Management . 149 Great Hindu Temple more Grotesque than Awe-inspiring . 137 Madras Observatory— Sun Spots as Indicative of Drought . .150 CONTENTS.

XIII PAGE PAGE Cuddapah, Rich Plain, but bad Reputation for Fever . . .151

Chapter XI. Bombay

Madras Irrigation Company, Causes of Failure 151 Sholapore, Seat of Cotton Factory 164 Wages as Compared with Lancashire 164 Black Cotton Lands retain Moisture, and are least Dependent on Irrigation 152 Good and bad Farming compared . 165 Black Soil in Rains too Sticky for Wheel Conveyance — At Kaludgi 5,000 Men carried Com from Station 166 Condition of the People — High Price of Food Enriches the Producer, but Impoverishes the Landless Class 153 The Deccan — Ahmednuggur . 166 Dates Distilled into " Toddy," the Favourite Drink of the People . 154 Opening of New Water Works . 167 Comparison of our Rule with that of the Dutch in Java . . . 167 Brahmin Water- Carriers at Railway Stations .... 154 The Money-Lenders Charge according to Value of Security . . 168 Bellary, Railway Extension to Carwar ...... 154 Cause of Financial Difficulties . 169 Great Poverty of Landless Class and Smaller Landholders after Famine 154 The Interest Due to Money-Lenders nearly Double the Land Rent . 169 Example Farm at Kandeish, and its Lessons 170 Two Distinct Phases of Humanity in same Village . . . .155 American Missions . . . .171 A Missionary's Opinion of the People 156 The City and Climate of Poonah . 172 Lake Fyfe and its Canals . . 172 Cotton Cultivation .... 157 The Mahrattas in Former Times Harried the Cultivators on the Plains — Now Kept to their own Land without that Remedy for the Natural Poverty of Country 173

CHAPTER X.

' nizam's countey. Punchayet Courts recommended by Native Society of Landowners . 174 Increase of Population not Encouraged on Poor Land . .158 Legal Expenses and Compound Interest ...... 175 Revenue, Population, and Extent 158 Combined Force at Disposal of British Government by Arrangement with Nizam . . .159 Seventy-five per cent, of Occupiers of Poorer Land hopelessly Indebted, and passing from Ryots to Labourers . . . .176 Berar the Richest Province . . 159 Coal and Iron about to be Developed by Extension of Railway . .160 A Plague of Rats has Increased the Loss 177 The City of Hyderabad . . .162 The Forest Department, Caution required in taking up Land for Planting 178 Breakfast with Sir Salar Jung, his Palace and Stables . . . 163 DeepPloughingwithEightBullocks 179 Price of Provisions at Hyderabad .

Contents

XIV PAGE PAGE In the Last, and in that of 1866 - 7, Relief was given in Cooked Food, which was Repugnant to Religious Feelings of People 193 Descent of the Ghats : the Taptee and Nerbudda Rivers . . . 180 Great Iron Railway Bridge . . 180 Cultivation with Well Irrigation . 181 Memadabad — Collection of Revenue 181 Violent Assault for Trespass . . 182 Kaira — View from Collector's Roof 182 The Orissa Famine of 1866 found every one Unprepared, and One Million People Died . . .194 Hindu care of Life of Lower Creation 182 With the Famine in Western and North- Western India, 1,600,000 Deaths in 1868-9, the Economical One Cause of Female Infanticide . 183 Dissatisfaction with English Rule . 183 Ahmedabad, Former Seat of the Kings of Guzerat . . . 184 System closes . . . 196 Famine of 1873-4 : large Expenditure, but no loss of Life, under Viceroyship of Lord Northbrook . . . .196 Successful Employment of Natives on Railway, and their Sobriety . 184 Surat, the Earliest Seat of English in India ..... 185 The Great Famine of. 1876-8 in Bombay, Mysore, Madras . . 198 The Dutch and English Tombs . 185 Fine City on Navigable River, Roads very bad and River silting up . 185 North-West Provinces . . . 201 Treatment, Expenditure, Mortality ; Review of Famine treatment ... . 202 The Revenue Officer preferred to the Judicial Court . . . 186 Moonsiffs and Pleaders . . . 187 Maintenance of the Village System Essential to the Preservatiou of Life 208 Picturesque Country towards Bombay 187 Bassein, a Deserted Portuguese Town 188 It is also the most Economical . 208 If no Labour exacted, Five Millions will be kept Alive on what would be Consumed by Four who are kept at Work . . . .209 Bombay, Fine Situation . . 189 Sea Point of Malabar Hill . .189 Adieu to Sir Richard Temple, and to India 190 One Million Lives might thus be Saved by giving up Ineffective Labour 209

Chapter XII

Immense Advantage of this to other parts of the Country also . . 210 INDIAN FAMINES AND THEIR LESSONS. The Annual Sum set aside in India for Famine Relief is not more than One-fiftieth per Head of the English Annual Expenditure in Relief of Poor . . . 210 Short Review of the Famines since 1800, and their Management . 190 That of 1803-4 same region as 1877 190 1813, 1833, 1837, 1861. In these the Government provided Employment for Abie-Bodied, and left the Helpless to the Charitable Public 192, 193 This Plan strongly Recommended in Future Famines , . .210 Village System, the Central Basis of Relief, should be Strengthened CONTENTS. XV PAGE PAGE Excessive Number of Population Employed in Cultivation of Land in India 225

Chapter XIII. General Impressions

The Land in Gangetic Plain, and its Tributaries, Supports the Larger Half of the Population of India, and is Twice as Populous per Square Mile as the Native States 211 Conversion of Tenure to Freehold 226 Result thereof Pecuniarily . . 227 Public Advantages of . . . 228 Substitution of an Improving for an Exhausting System . . 229 The People Increase Faster than their Food 212