A Trip round the World in 1887-8 ... Illustrated by John Pedder ... and the author. Second edition

Front matter

A TRIP ROUND THE WORLD IN 1887-8 JIN-RICK1SHAS, YOKOHAMA. A TRIP ROUND THE WORLD IN 1887—8 BY W. S. CAINE, M.P. ILLUSTRATE-! BV JOHN PEDDER, H. SHEPPARD DALE, GEO. BICAHAM, And the AUTHOR DELHI GATE, AGRA FORT SECOND EDITION LONDON GEORGE ROUTLEDGE AND SONS BROADWAY, LUDGATE HILL GLASGOW AND NEW YORK 1S88 LONDON : PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS. TO MY CONSTITUENTS AND FRIENDS AT BARROW-IN-FURNESS, TO WHOM THESE LETTERS WERE ORIGINALLY ADDRESSED, THIS VOLUME IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED.

Preface

. This volume consists of a reprint of letters addressed to the Barrow News, the leading newspaper of the constituency I represent in Parliament, dating from August 1887 to March 1888. The letters were written during idle hours on board steamers, for the amusement and information of my con stituents and personal friends, but with no intention of adding to the many volumes of travel which deal with the various countries I have seen in my rapid tour round the world. I have, however, found by experience, that the obiter dicta of other travellers have been of so much greater service to me during my own journey than the recognized guide books, many of which have been put quite out of date by the rapid developments of transit, and the equally rapid changes in Eastern customs, that I venture to add my modest contribution to the literature of travel.

I hope it may prove of value to some of that increasing number of English and Americans to whom a tour round the world is becoming a matter of course, and perhaps also of some interest to the general reader. I have tried to make my letters readable by old and young alike. In one respect this volume differs — so far as I am aware —

PREFACE.

. X from any other of the kind which has yet been published. It is profusely illustrated. I trust more to my pictures than to my inexperienced literary powers, to make this volume acceptable to the public. I wish to acknowledge gratefully the assistance I have had from my old friend, Mr. John Pedder, of Maiden head, who has evolved the greater portion of the illustrations, with accuracy and artistic skill, from a heterogeneous collection of rough sketches and photographs made by me on my journey ; and also to Mr. H. Sheppard Dale for the excellent architectural drawings of Japanese and Indian buildings which bear his name. The journey taken by my daughter and myself has entailed no hardship or inconvenience, with the not very serious excep tion of our voyage across the Pacific. The Vancouver line of steamers can be avoided by other travellers, without losing the enchanting scenery of the Canadian Pacific route, or incurring extra expense.

The Canadian Pacific Railway Company will book passengers from Quebec or Montreal, through to San Francisco, at slightly higher rates than the direct American Pacific Railroads ; the sea passage from Vancouver to San Francisco is for the most part in smooth water, the coast being extremely beautiful, and the steamers comfortable. The only really good line of steamers crossing the Pacific are those chartered from the White Star Line sailing from San Francisco ; their names all end with " ic," and if tourists take care to secure this last syllable, they will be sure of fine ships and comfortable accom modation. None of the trans-continental railways of the United States can compare with the Canadian Pacific either for beauty of

PREFACE.

. XI scenery or comfort in travel. It is easy, however, for those wishing to see the Yellowstone Park, to cross over vid Winnipeg to the Canadian Pacific route. It is important on all American lines of railway to secure sleeping-car berths the day before starting on the journey — they are generally crowded. I know no bed of little ease to compare with a night spent in the ordinary American car. I advise travellers to resist all temptations to travel by steamers not flying the British flag. Their ways are not our ways. There is absolutely no remedy for sea-sickness, but to go to bed and stop there till it runs its horrid course. The best food to take is beef-tea absolutely free from fat, with crisp dry toast, and grapes. There is an excellent preparation which can be made ready in a moment with boiling water, called Bovril, and another equally good, Johnson's beef-tea.

I have often seen well-meaning but misguided folk, coming on board to see their loved ones off on a voyage, loading their friends' cabins with hot-house flowers. A basket of hot-house grapes instead, with six pots of Bovril, would bring grateful memories the third day at sea. Above all things to be avoided are quack remedies, or such dangerous drugs as cocaine, nitro-glycerine, or bromide of potassium. In ninety-nine cases out of a hundred, every passenger is ready for a good breakfast the third morning out, without any remedy but Nature's recuperation, and the odd hundredth is best left to the ship's doctor. Clothing sorely exercises the intending traveller round the world, and, as a rule, twice too much is taken. I advise plenty of good woollen underclothing, two new tweed suits, light and

PREFACE.

. strong, a thin dress suit, a light overcoat, a good ulster, and a mackintosh, with three or four pairs of shoes of different strengths, buying tropical clothing on the spot as required. It is much more costly to pay fares from place to place, than to make up your route before starting, buying a through ticket from Thos. Cook & Son. Wishing to be free to select my own routes and steamers, I took the former course. Here follow the fares I had to pay : £ s. d. Liverpool to Montreal (Allan line) . 18 18 o Montreal to Vancouver (Canadian Pacific Railway) . . . . 15 S 3 Vancouver to Yokohama (Sir Wm. Pearce's steamer) .... 36 9 2 Yokohama to Colombo (P. & O steamer ) 5200 Colombo to Calcutta (ditto) . . 1200 Calcutta, Benares, Lucknow, Cawnpore, Agra, Delhi, Jeypore to Bombay, by rail . . . . 1200 Bombay to Brindisi (P. & O. steamer) 63 o o Brindisi to London (by rail) . . 1280 Total .£222 3 5 Messrs. Thos. Cook & Son can supply through tickets covering all these journeys for £155 18s. 8d., so that if I had booked through at starting, I should have saved £66 on each of my fares.

I have not included in the list of separate fares the extras I paid for securing whole cabins for my daughter and myself. I advise intending travellers round the world to fix their route, and take a through ticket from Cook. The £66 saved would more than suffice to secure the unspeakable comfort of a

PREFACE.

. XIII whole cabin, when the steamers were at all crowded. We indulged in this luxury crossing the Atlantic and Pacific, at an extra cost of £30 each, and felt it to be the most profitable expenditure made on our whole journey. It is well to have a small medicine chest. Ships' doctors are often very young and inexperienced, and in out-of-the-way places native doctors are not to be trusted, and the drugs are bad. In remote Japan, the almost universal treatment for disease of any kind is to stick the patient's body, in all safe places, full of needles. Any family doctor will be able to give a list of tinctures and compressed drugs, such as those manufactured by Wyeth, or Burroughs Welcome and Co., obtainable through any good chemist, with simple instructions for treating the ailments incidental to travel.

They will pack into a small box about six inches cube. It is true I presented my own box intact to a medical missionary just before leaving India, but the knowledge that in cases where doctors were available, I had the best quality of drugs likely to be required, added greatly to my comfort of mind all through the journey. A six months' tour round the world can be done economically, travelling first-class throughout, for about .£350 ; luxuriously with exclusive cabins, for £420 to I can confidently recommend to travellers in Japan my two guides, Mr. Ito and Mr. Hakodate, both of whom are to be found at the Grand Hotel, Yokohama. PAGE H -5 CONTENTS.

Chapter I. From Liverpool To Quebec

The " Sarmatian "—The Antrim coast — Our fellow passengers — Atlantic bills of fare — Belle Isle Strait — The aurora borealis — The Seamen's Orphanage — Miss Macpherson and her lambs — Contumacious anti-vaccinators — Quebec .. .. .. .. .. i

Chapter II. Montreal

Par ici — British swagger— Old Quebec — The St. Lawrence — Mount Royal — The " Windsor" — The Lachine rapids — The two bridges — The president ofthe Canadian Pacific — Protection and the iron trade

Chapter III. Niagara

Our first journey on the C. P. R. — Toronto " side " — Its university — Its churches — Niagara — American advertising horrors — The falls — The rapids — The whirlpool — Niagara in winter — The Welland canal and locks — Railway versus canal — A Canadian homestead — A farmer's life — Apples — New London — Lake Huron — The " Alberta " — Soult St. Marie — Lake Superior — Thunder Bay

Chapter IV. Winnipeg

Port Arthur — Once more on the C. P. R. — Camping out — Trout and grasshoppers — Night in the train — Thirteen babies — Winnipeg — Who should emigrate — Wages and cost of living in Winnipeg — Farming prospects — Glenbeigh versus Manitoba .. .. .. CONTENTS. PAGE 52

Chapter V. Calgary And The Ranching Country

The great Canadian prairie — The Assiniboine valley — Brandon — The Bell farm — Regina — The prairie fauna — Blackfeet — Natural gas — Calgary — Ranches — Stimson's Ranch — Cowboys and their prospects — The Sarcee Indians — Bull's Head — Indian swells — Eagle rib — The Leland Hotel— The Salvation Army—" Bravo, Ted ! "—Prohibition of the liquor trade — The fire brigade — Electric light

Chapter VI. The Canadian Natural Park

The Gap — Canmore — Dr. Brett's sanitarium — The panorama of the Rocky Mountains — The hot springs — An aristocratic boatman — The Bow river — Trout — Canoeing — Vermilion lake — Sunday at Banff — A prairie bishop — The national park and its ranger — The Spray river — Deer, bears, beavers, catamounts, panthers, and other fearful wild fowl — Fish — Forest fires — The Indians — The C. P. R. Hotel 68

Chapter VII. The Selkirks

An early start — Silver city — Mount Lefroy — Summit lakes — Kicking Horse pass— Field — Mountain goats — Our bear hunt — Glacier House — Mount Sir Donald and its great glacier — The Hermit range — Stoney Creek — Avalanches and snow sheds — Roger's pass — Comfort on wheels — The great bend — The gold range — Thompson river — Fraser river — A train burnt — The Cariboo road — ■ Agassiz — Harrison lake — Vancouver .. .. .. .. .. 92

Chapter VIII. British Columbia

Five years ago and to-day — The Great Sound — Salmon runs — The candle fish — Herrings— Oysters — Dog-fish — Cod — Coal — Gold — Iron — Silver — Timber — The Douglas fir — The lumberer — The fanner — Climate — The Japan current — Victoria — Esquimault — Work and wages — The heathen Chinee .. .. .. .. ng CONTENTS. XVII 173

Chapter IX. The Temperance Movement In Canada

PAGE Sober habits of Canadians generally — Women — The churches — History of legislation— Prohibition for the North-West — The Scott Act- Has it succeeded ? — A stepping stone to prohibition .. .. .. 132

Chapter X. Across The Pacific

Bad management of the Vancouver steamers — Delays — The " Port Victor" — Confusion and overcrowding — Extra Chinamen — Cockroaches — A popular captain — Life on the Pacific — Chinamen's meals — " Chin-chin Joss " — A typhoon — A volcano — Japan at last .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 145

Chapter XI. Yokohama

The " City of Sydney " in a typhoon — Yokohama — The bund — The bay — Ships of all nations — The Grand Hotel — Jin-rickishas — Shops — Flower-sellers — Bed ! — England v. America — Funerals— Railways — Agriculture — Utsunomiya — The merry Jap — Babies — A tea-house — The bath — Food — O-hy-o — Straw-clothes — Jin-rickisha men — Cryptomeria Avenue — Road-side incidents .. .. .. .. 153

Chapter XII. Nikko

A Japanese hotel — Curio dealers — Nikko the " sunny splendour " — Nantai-san — Images of Amida Buddha — Nikko the holy — The sacred lacquered bridge — The Torii — The pagoda — The gate of the two kings — The holy water cistern — The library — The Korean lantern — Yo-mei-mon — The cloister — The carved panels — The Chinese gate — The inner sanctuary — The tomb of the mighty Shogun — Iye-mitsu 's temples — The Wind God — The Thunder God — The Kara mon — Iye-mitsu's tomb — Enno Shokaku, the sturdylegged — Chiu-sen-je — Travelling in Kagos — The Mikado's birthday — Kamakura — The great Daibutz or Bronze Buddha — A Japanese feast — Sea-fishery — Sunday at Yokohama — Christianity in Japan — Fuji-yama — A Japanese mail steamer — Vries island — Kioto h CONTENTS. PAGE 219

Chapter XIII. Social Life In Japan

Population — Work and wages — Cost of living — Education — The Dragon pond school — A pretty picture — Little maids from school — The university — The Emperor and his ministers — Local government — Religion — Justice — Army — Navy — Exports and imports — Foreigners — Amusements — Music — Dancing — Theatres — The children's street — Singing and dancing girls— Holidays .. .. 205

Chapter XIV. Japanese Arts And Manufactures

The Mikado's palace — The old castle of the Shoguns — Marvellous paintings and carvings — Decorations — A tea garden — Mr. Gladstone's portrait — " Waiting for the young Mikado " — Lacquer working — Porcelain — Inlaying in gold and silver — Bronze — The inland sea — Nagasaki — Japanese martyrs — Pappenburg island

Chapter XV. Hong Kong

The Ladrones — Piracy — The harbour — Typhoons — " Too much piecy top-side" — Stick — English town — China town — Shops — The Hill of Great Peace — Street scenes — The Governor and Government House — Kowloong — Chinese fishing — Revenue and expenditure — Water — The council — Missionaries— Shipping and commerce — Work and wages — Crime .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 232

Chapter XVI. Singapore

Coolie swindlers — The tropics at last — The heat — Singapore — The botanical gardens, an open-air hothouse ! — The cathedral — The sailors' rest— English town — Malay town — China town — The twenty-five nationalities of Singapore — Dress — Locomotion — Markets — Ducks — Fish — Fruit — Whampoa's garden — The harbour and docks — Fortifications — Revenue and expenditure — Opium and drink — The Government — Missionaries — Trade and commerce — Sir Hugh Low — Penang — A curry breakfast CONTENTS. XIX CHAPTER'XVII. KANDY. PAGE Spicy breezes — Ceylon in sight and smell — Point de Galle — Adam's peak — Colombo — Catamarans — The Kandy railway — Country sights — A 6000-feet railway climb — Sensation Rock — Kandy — The sacred tooth of Buddha — Horrible beggars — Kandy — The Peradenia Garden — Dr. Triman — Keep off the grass — leeches and snakes — Palms of all sorts — Jack-fruit — Ferns — Creepers — Giant bamboos — Squirrels — Tropical birds — Tipsy flying foxes — Nuwera Eliya — An imitation England — The Hakgala gardens — The jungle — Elephants — Leopards — Cheetahs — Eagles — Rest-houses — Ramboda .. .. 261

Chapter XVIII. Colombo

A. M. and J. Ferguson — Princely hospitality — Sir John Coode's great breakwater — The Grand Oriental — Pedlars and precious stones — Market place — Cingalese men and women — Bullock carts — Street scenes — Population — Religion — The devil dancer — Missionaries and Christianity — The Salvation Army — Education — Mrs. Pigott's school for Cingalese girls— Arabi the exile .. .. .. .. 277

Chapter XIX. The Resources Of Ceylon

The blessings of seventy years of British rule — Crops — Exports — Coffee planting — Tea — Chinchona — Cacao — Cardamoms— Plumbago mining — Condition of the poor — Trade and commerce — Government — Work and wages — Governor's monuments — Intoxicating drink — Licensing system — Consumption of liquor — Intemperance and crime — Madras — Surf boats .. .. .. ..291

Chapter XX. Calcutta To Benares

Thomas Cook and Son, benefactors ! — Calcutta — The Hooghly — Our Christmas dinner — Beadon Square — Young Bengal — Indian railways — Country scenes — Benares — Dr. Lazarus — The Hindoo CONTENTS. XX PAGE 3°7 gate of heaven— Buddhism— Sarnath— 1454 temples— The bathing ghats— The Rain God— The Goddess of Small Pox— The observatory — The Maharajah's launch— The well of healing— The well of knowledge — The golden temple — Pictures from the " Arabian Nights "—The sacred bull— Fakeers— The goddess Durga's temple — Her monkeys — The mosque of Aurungzebe — -The Ganges

Chapter XXI. The City Of The Great Moguls

Agra — The river Jumna — The fort — The Delhi gate — The pearl mosque — The great divan — The courtyard — The harem — The Jasmine tower — The three pavilions — The glass palace — The view from the terrace — The Taj-Mahal — Its beauty — The gardens — The mausoleum — Moonlight — The jewelled tombs of Shah Jehan and his beloved wife — The marble trellis — The great gateway — Sikandra --Akbar's tomb — The gateway at Sikandra — Mausoleum of Prince Etmad Dowlat — Fattehpur Sikri — The royal buildings — Akbar's palace— The divers — The Fakeer's grave — Birbul's house — The peacock throne — Mission work in Agra — Village life— Roadside scenes — Work and wages .. .. .. .. .. .. 325

Chapter XXII. Delhi

One ofthe ancient cities ofthe world— Toglakabad — Timour the Tartar — The Kutab-Minar — The mosque of Kutab-ul Islam — The iron pillar — The tomb of Humayoun — Indrapat — Firozabad — Asoka's pillar— The great Jumma Musjid— The fort of Delhi— The Chandni Chowk — Merchants .. .. .. .. .. .. „ 350

Chapter XXIII. Jeypore To Bombay

Rajputana— Jeypore— The stables— Man-eating tigers— The Maharajah. —His park— Palace— Museum— Art gallery — College schools — Hospital— School of Art — Prison— Picturesque street scenes— The deserted city of Amber— An elephant ride— Alligators- Hindoo Ascetics— The palace— Ajmere— The Dargah— The Mayo college CONTENTS. XXI PAGE —The tank — The bazaars — Ahmedabad— Its trade— Sidi Said's marble window— The mosques — Rani Sipri's tomb and mosque — The Jain temple — Lonely Sarkhej— Bombay — The Parsees — The towers of silence — The caves of Elephanta .. .. .. .. 359

Chapter XXIV. Social Problems In India

The struggle for existence — Race differences — One of the ] poorest countries in the world — Average annual income of the people — Famine — Cholera — Taxation — ■ Land tax — The usurer — The zemindar — The ryot — Education : primary, intermediate, University — Mission schools — Cultured natives and social reforms — Technical education — Loyalty of educated natives — Their desire for a share in the government of their country — The National Indian Congress — The Civil Service — The Indian Council .. .. .. .. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. DRAWN BY PAGE Jin-rickisha travelling in Japan ..... John Pedder \ Delhi Gate, Agra Fort H. Sheppard Dale title-page Aurora Borealis . W. S. Caine . 8 Quebec, from Point Levis J. Pedder . . 16 Horse Shoe Fall, Niagara . . ... . . ,, . -29 Whirlpool Rapids, Niagara . . . . . . ,, . .31 Emery Hall, a Canadian Homestead . . . .

H. S. Came . 35 Sault St. Marie Lock, Lake Superior . . . . J. Pedder . . 39 Thunder Cape, Lake Superior . . . . W. S. Caine . 40 A Manitoba Homestead ...... J. Pedder . . 49 Threshing out Wheat-stacks on the Prairie ... ,, • • 53 Railway Depot, Brandon ...... ,, • ■ 55 Calgary, with distant view of the Rocky Mountains . IV. S. Caine . 59 Bull's Head, the Sarcee Chief J. Pedder . .61 Sarcee Squaw and Pony Cart ..... ,, . . 63 Eagle Rib, a Sarcee Chief ,, . . 64 " Bravo, Ted ! " a Salvation Army incident ... ,, . . 65 The Gap : Entrance to the Rocky Mountains . . ,, . .69 Canmore Rocks . . . . . . . ,, . 71 Castle Mountain . . . . . . W. S. Caine . 72 View of Banff from above the Sanatorium ... ,, -73 Bridge of Boats and Twin Peaks, Banff. . . . J. Pedder . . 77 Cascade Mountain . . . . . . , W. S. Caine . 80 On the Bow River, Banff J. Pedder . .81 The Bow Falls ,, 83 Vermilion Lake, National Park, Banff .... ,, . . 85 A Forest Fire, National Park, Banff .... ,, . . 89 Canadian Pacific Railway Hotel, National Park, Banff . ,, . . 91 View in the Selkirks . . . . . .

W. S. Caine . 92 Summit Lake ........ jf. Pedder . . 93 Kicking Horse Pass ....... „ • • 95 Field Station ........ ,, • • 97 The Monarchs of the Rocky Mountains . ... „ . . LIST OF ILL US TRA TIONS. DRAWN BY PAGE The Bear Hunt 7 Pedder . . 103 Snow Sheds ........ „ . • 105 Mount Sir Donald and the Great Glacier . . . W. S. Caine . 107 The Great Bend of the Canadian Pacific Railway . . J. Pedder . .110 Roger's Pass : the Summit of the Selkirks . . . ,, . .111 An Indian Salmon Cache ...... „ . ■ "3 Salmon Cannery on the Fraser River . . . . ,, . .116 Harrison Lake TV. S. Caine. . 117 The " Yosemite " leaving Vancouver .... J. Pedder . .119 Indians Salmon Fishing on the Fraser River . . . ,, . . 121 Douglas Pines, Vancouver ■■ • • I25 Esquimault Harbour ....... „ ■ 129 The " Port Victor " 7 Pedder . . 146 Vries Volcano, Yokohama Bay W. S. Caine. . 151 Tea House, Yokohama Bay 7- Pedder . .154 Yokohama Harbour . » • • '54 A Street in Yokohama » • • IS5 Buying Chrysanthemums, Yokohama .... ,, . . 157 Group of Children, Utsunomiya ..... ,, • ■ 162 Doll and Fan »■ . . 163 Interior of Tea House, Bedroom Floor . . . . „ ■ .165 Jin-rickisha Man in his Straw Rain-Coat ... ,, . 167 The Road to Nikko » . . 168 The Hotel at Nikko '74 Row of Buddhas at Nikko IV.

S. Caine. . 176 The Pagoda, Nikko H. Sheppard Dale . 179 Holy Water Cistern, Nikko ,. . . 180 The Kio-zo, or Library, Nikko ,. . . iSl Korean Bronze Lantern, Nikko , . 182 The Yo-mei-mon Gate, Nikko >. • .184 The Yo-mei-mon Cloisters, Nikko .... „ . . 1S7 The Nio-mon Gate, entrance to the Temples of Iye-mitsu. „ . .189 The Kara-mon Gate, Iye-mitsu's Temples ... ,, . . 190 The Chinese Gate, Iye-yasu's Temples .... „ . . 191 On the Road to Chiu-sen-je W. S. Caine. . 195 The Great Buddha, Kamakura 7- P«M<r ■ ■ '97 Fuji-yama, the Sacred Mountain W. S. Caine. . 201 Shooting the Rapids, Kioto 7- P^der . . 203 A Shinto Priest •» . . 211 Music, Japan " " 2I4 Dancing Girl, Japan >> • * 2IS A Street Scene, Kioto » . . 227 The Inland Sea of Japan IV. S. Caine . LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. DRAWN BY PAGB Pappenburg Island, Nagasaki Harbour . . . .

W. S. Caine . 230 The Kowloong Hills, Hong Kong Harbour ... ,, • • 233 Chinese Town, Hong Kong 7 Pedder . . 237 Singapore : a Mango Breakfast in July .... Geo. Bickham . 260 Adam's Peak, Ceylon W- S. Caine . 262 The Dekanda Valley, Ceylon H- S. Dale . . 265 On the Kandy Railway — Sensation Rock ... „ • ■ 266 The India-rubber Tree, Kandy ..... >■ ■ 269 The Giant Bamboo, Peradenia Gardens, Kandy . . ,. • 272 Sir John Coode's Breakwater, Colombo. ... ,, . • 281 Devil-dancer and Tom-tom, Ceylon . . . . 7- Pedder . . 285 A Cingalese Workman H. S. Dale . . 297 A Village Shop, Ceylon 7 Pedder . . 303 In the Bay of Bengal ,, . . 306 The Bathing Ghats, Benares ,, . ■ 3*5 Nothing is Sacred to a Snake ! Geo. Bickham . 320 The Jasmine Tower, Agra Fort H. S. Dale . . 327 The Taj Mahal, from the Summit of the Great Gateway . 7.

Pedder . . 331 View from the Terrace of the Fort, Agra ... ,, . 333 The Tomb of Akbar, Sikandra „ • • 336 The Palace of Fattehpur Sikri H. S. Dale . . 337 Birbul's House, Fattehpur Sikri ..... ,, . . 341 The Mausoleum of Prince Etmad Dowlat . . . ,, ■ 343 The Kutab Minar, Delhi J. Pedder . . 352 The Ruined City of Indrapat, Delhi .... ,, • ' 354 The Jumma Musjid, Delhi H. S. Dale . . 355 The Pearl Mosque, Delhi Fort . . . . . „ . -357 Street Scene at Jeypore . . . . . . 7. Pedder . . 362 The Ruined City of Amber ...... ,, . . 367 The Great Well of the Dargah, Ajmere ... „ . . 369 Carved Window of the Mosque of Rani Sipri, Ahmedabad H. S. Dale . -371 Pierced Marble Window of Sidi's Said Mosque, Ahmedabad ........ ,, . . 372 The Tomb of Rani Sipri, Ahmedabad .... „ . . 374 Cave Temple of Elephanta ...... 7- Pedder . . 378 Aden Harbour ........ „ . ,

Chapter I. From Liverpool To Quebec

On Thursday afternoon, the iSth of August, I embarked with my eldest daughter on board the Allan liner " Sarmatian," on my voyage round the world. Our first care on coming on board was to find our cabins, and get the luggage for the voyage safely stowed in them. I had wisely left the choice of the cabins to my old friends, Messrs. Allan Bros. & Co., and found they had provided for our accommodation the first officer's and purser's cabins, on the spar deck, so situated as to secure the minimum of motion with the maximum of fresh air. Compared with the accommodation furnished on an Atlantic liner for the ordinary passenger, which is humorously termed a " state-room," our cabins are little palaces, replete with every comfort. The officers turn a nimble ninepence during the summer months by letting their cabins for the voyage to passengers who like the extra accommodation, but find their luxury acceptable enough in the terrible voyages which they have often to endure in the winter.

I write this letter in a room about 12 feet square, with four windows, a hot water apparatus, a fine mahogany desk, a wardrobe, a chest of drawers, a wash-stand which disappears into a recess when not B required, a large and comfortable sofa, and a bed. When the cabin passengers are sent to bed at ten o'clock, wakeful or sleepy, and their lights arbitrarily extinguished, I lie on my sofa reading by the light of a handsome duplex lamp till sleep comes without effort ; then I turn in. I know no more fearful punishment for an unhappy Member of Parliament, trained by sad experience to sit up and keep awake till three in the morning, than to be sent to bed at ten, with his light, dim and unsatisfactory at the best, ruthlessly put out at half past, leaving him tumbling in bed at his very wakefullest moments.

We settled down in our comfortable cabins, put our clothes neatly away in the drawers, thankfully remembering other voyages when we have had to get to the bottom of portmanteaux while the ship was standing on her head, and then sallied forth for a tour of inspection round the ship which is to be our floating home for the next ten days. The " Sarmatian " is a fine steamer of the second class. She has a speed of 13 to 14 knots, as her five full-day Atlantic runs on this voyage show, viz. 314, 318, 320, 322, 320 knots each day, giving a shade over 13 knots an hour. She carries a goodly family to provide for on the voyage. There are 63 1 souls on board — 105 cabin, 85 intermediate, 325 steerage passengers, and a crew of 116. The anchor is weighed at five o'clock, and soon New Brighton fort and lighthouse, the various lightships and the foaming sandy bar of the Mersey, drop astern one by one, and we take our last look of England for six months, going to bed to dream of home and friends, mingled with intermittent visions of thc Rocky Mountains, the Flowery Land, the Mikado, " the spicy breezes that blow o'er Ceylon's isle," and the horrors of sea sickness.

August 19th. — We wake up to find ourselves running close in along the Antrim coast, which gives us some of the finest scenery in the kingdom. I am glad to view from the sea points of interest I had previously enj'oyed on shore. Garron Head and Fair Head were well in sight, then, passing through the strait between Rathlin Island and the mainland, Carrick-a-Rede, with its terrible rope bridge 120 feet in the air, the organ rock of the Giant's Causeway, the rising watering-place of Portrush follow in rapid succession, and at eleven o'clock we steam into Lough Foyle, and drop anchor off Moville to wait for the mails. A magnificent Atlantic steamer is already there, and my thoughts fly off to my constituency as I recognise the good work of the Barrow Shipbuilding Company in the Anchor liner " Devonia."