Zig-zag Journeys in the British Isles ... Fully illustrated

Front matter

-v ZIGZAG JOURNEYS IN THE BRITISH ISLES. The Zigzag Series. BY HEZEK1AH BUTTERWORTH. ZIGZAG JOURNEYS IN EUROPE. ZIGZAG JOURNEYS IN CLASSIC LANDS. ZIGZAG JOURNEYS IN THE ORIENT. ZIGZAG JOURNEYS IN THE OCCIDENT. ZIGZAG JOURNEYS IN NORTHERN LANDS. ZIGZAG JOURNEYS IN ACADIA. ZIGZAG JOURNEYS IN THE LEVANT. ZIGZAG JOURNEYS IN THE SUNNY SOUTH. ZIGZAG JOURNEYS IN INDIA. ZIGZAG JOURNEYS IN THE ANTIPODES. ZIGZAG JOURNEYS IN THE BRITISH ISLES. ESTES AND LAURIAT, Publishers, BOSTON, MASS. HAMPDEN IX THE MIDST OF THE FIGHT. Zigzag Journeys IN THE BRITISH ISLES; OR, VACATION RAMBLES IN HISTORIC LANDS. BY HEZEKIAH BUTTERWORTH. FULLY ILLUSTRATED. BOSTON: ESTES AND LAURIAT, PUBLISHERS. Copyright, 1S89, By Estes and Lauriat. All Rights Reserved. Knttiersitp : John Wilson and Son, Cambridge, U. S. A.

Preface

this volume — the eleventh in the Zigzae: series — an American family go abroad to seek the evidences of one of their home traditions that John Hampden, the English patriot, came to America in 1623 to prepare a colony for the patriots in case the popular cause should fail ; that he visited Massasoit, and learned of a plot to destroy the Pilgrims, which was prevented by this disclosure. The traditional visit was a secret one, and occurred between the two Parliaments of James. The family visit the land of Moore and Goldsmith in Ireland ; the English Lake District of the poets ; Abbotsford ; Scrooby, the land of the Pilgrims ; old Boston ; Great Hampden, Windsor, and the scenes of Gray's poetry ; the west of England and the Isle of Avalon, the scene of the King Arthur legends. The volume contains a miscellany of English wonder-stories, many of them associated with American history, and like the pre ceding volumes is designed to be entertaining and educational.

While purposely zigzaggy, a connected and definite purpose under- PREFA CE. lies each volume. It is the purpose of this book to show by a shifting scene of stories, legends, and pictures what noble men our English ancestors were. The author has published some of these sketches in the " New York Independent" (1868-70) and in the "Youth's Companion," and one (George III.) in the "Atlantic Monthly." The Arthur legends are edited from the old Saxon Chronicle. H. B. 28 Worcester Street, January 5, 1889. CONTENTS. Chapter Page I. British in the Isles 13 II. A Proposed Journey to the Scenes of the Old English Fireside Stories 31 III. The Original Story of King Lear and Cordelia. — Winslow's Journey to Pokanoket to visit Massasoit ... 43 IV. Was John Hampden ever in America ? — The Voyage. — Amusements and Stories on the Sea. — Story of Grace Darling 59 V. The Land of Moore and Goldsmith. — Stories of the Author of the " Deserted Village.

" — The Story and Last Address of Robert Emmet. — ■ Giants 80 VI. Liverpool, and the Land of Wordsworth, Southey, and Coleridge . 107 VII. Melrose Abbey, and Sir Walter Scott's Legendary Tales 139 VIII. Great Hampden 156 IX. The Land of the Pilgrim Fathers 178 X. The Land of Gray and the "Elegy." — Windsor .... 189 XL London 207 XII. Old English Christmas Stories and Ballads 235 XIII. The Vale of Avalon 262 XIV The National Stories of the English Nursery and the Court 276 XV. A Letter from Great Hampden ILLUSTRATIONS.

Page Page Hampden in the Midst of the Fight Frontispiece Blenheim, the Residence of the Duke of On the Irish Coast ioo St. Michael's Mount 103 Marlborough IS At the Mouth of the Mersey . . . . 10S St. John's Church, Chester .... 109 Hampton Court 19 St. George's Dock, Liverpool . . . . in Devonport 22 Guildhall, Liverpool 112 Plymouth 23 Seizure of Spanish Treasure-Ships by Drake 25 The Exchange, Liverpool 114 Windermere 122 Bridge over the Plym (Plymouth) . . 28 William Wordsworth .124 Grasmere 126 Above Quebec 32 Cowper's House 127 Sir Walter Raleigh 33 Southey's Grave ........ 132 Land's End 34 Hartley Coleridge 134 Saint Bartholomew's Eve 37 Court at Oxford 135 Lord Whittington and his Cat .... 40 The Coaching Trip 137 Lear disowns Cordelia 45 Ruins of Melrose Abbey 140 Regan casts out her Father .... 46 Edinburgh Castle 143 Cordelia reclaims her Father's Kingdom 4S Winslow refused Admittance to see Massasoit S1 Louis XI 145 Ruins of Kenilworth Castle .... 147 " The Noble Indian " 55 Philip de Commynes 149 The Famous Warwick Castle .... 61 The Balue Cage 152 Up the St. Lawrence 65 Louis XI. and Charles the Rash at Peronne 153 The Fame Islands . 74 Tomb of Grace Darling 75 Louis XI. and Burgesses waiting for News 157 Londonderry 76 Trinity College, Dublin 77 Hampden House and Church .... 160 Death of Hampden 163 The Albert Memorial 81 In Hampden Churchyard 167 Drogheda 82 Hampden Park 17.0 The Vale of Avoca 83 Ruins of the Castle near Scrooby . . 173 Athlone Castle 87 Oliver Goldsmith 89 Hampden's Monument 175 Harrow Spire 180 Dublin Bay 93 Newstead Abbey 181 The Giant's Causeway ILL USTRA TIONS. 12 Page Page Byron's Tomb, Harrow Churchyard . . 182 The Christmas-Tree 249 Crystal Palace, London 253 View in Nottinghamshire 187 " The boast of heraldry, the pomp of power" 190 The Minuet 257 Mouth of the Avon 263 The Avon at Bristol 264 " For them no more the blazing hearth shall burn " 191 Queen Elizabeth 265 Glastonbury Abbey 269 Church of Stoke-Pogis 193 Windsor Castle 195 Cape Cornwall 271 George III 199 Penzance 273 Palm-House, Kew Gardens .... 203 Haddon Hall 277 St. James' Park, London 209 Carnarvon Castle, Wales 283 Westminster Abbey 213 Tavistock 289 Execution of Sir Walter Raleigh . . . 216 Pont Aberglaslyn, Wales 293 The Tower of London 217 Tintagel, the Home of King Arthur . . 297 Buckingham Palace 221 Britons drawn up in line of Battle . . 299 Lady Jane Grey 225 " The Saxons withstood the attack bravely " 303 Kensington Gardens, London .... 229 Nelson Monument, Trafalgar Square . 236 The Saxon King reviewing his Army . 307 Ginevra 237 In the Heat of the Combat 312 Lincoln Cathedral 241 Chatsworth 313 London Bridge 245 In Hampden Park

Chapter I. British In The Isles

HE Hampdens lived on the Mount Hope Lands. The reader may know little about these historic fields that lie between the Narragansett and Mount Hope Bays, and the rivers that flow into them. They form a long, narrow peninsula. It was on the shores of these Lands that Leif Ericson is supposed to have landed, and to have made the first temporary settlement in what is now the United States. This was about the year i coo. A stone is still to be seen at the Narrows, near Mount Hope, which bears a supposed Northman inscription similar to that on Dighton Rock. The Skeleton in Armor found at Fall River, near Mount Hope Bay, doubtless belongs to the same expedition and period. On the Mount Hope Lands — which are now Bristol, Warren, and parts of Swansea, the first two in Rhode Island and the latter in Mas sachusetts — lived Massasoit, the protector of the Plymouth Pilgrims for forty years.

Roger Williams came here when driven from Boston, and lived during a part of a winter in one of the lodges of Massasoit. Here, too, as is supposed by Belknap and a recent English writer, came the great English patriot John Hampden, to what is now Warren, Rhode Island, as a companion of Edward Winslow, to visit Massasoit and to see the country. Hampden was a young man then, and had recently married, and was doubtless intent, as he was after ward, on schemes of colonization in America. His visit was a hasty one, between the two great Parliaments. America seems ever after ward to have been his dream ; and here he would probably have come had the popular cause against the king, and the king's claims of divine right over the people, failed. He found Massasoit sick, and helped nurse him back to health again.

The scene, which is worthy of poet or painter, is associated by circumstantial tradition with the Massasoit Spring, near one of the old decaying wharves in Warren. King Philip lived on the Mount Hope Lands, as all readers know. Here probably the interesting Queen Wetamoo, who lived on the other side of the bay, used to visit him, and join him in his war dances. Here was the old Indian town of Pokanoket, on the Kike muit River, — an arm of the bay. Here lived Church, the Indian fighter. Here came Washington, to visit Bradford, the Rhode Island patriot and statesman, who lived at Mount Hope. Dessalines caught the air of liberty from Mount Hope Bay, and went to the tropic islands to liberate Hayti, if the old tradition be true. General Burn side made his home here. The first Baptist Church in Massachu setts was here established at the end of the beautiful peninsula, near the old Miles Bridge.

This region is a wonderland of stories, — Indian stories, Kidd stories, Revolutionary stories, ghost stories, witchcraft stories. The old houses and places were full of stories. A volume might be made of them. A romancer would make it a place of his toric resort and pilgrimages, and fill the old hotels of Bristol and Warren with tourists. The region is one of great beaut)'. The water scenery from its green hills has the spirit of romance in it, so attractive to the eye of BLENHEIM, THE RESIDENCE OF THE DUKE OF MARLBOROUGH. BRITISH IN THE ISLES. 17 the painter and poet. The old New England orchards here abound, surrounded by heavy stone-walls built by the strong men of the early generations, and overgrown with mosses and vines. Great trees, with osprey's nests, line the bays and rivers. In the spring when the orchards are in bloom, and in the autumn when the apples are ripe, the old places have a peculiar beauty; and also late in the fall when the fields are yellow with corn and pumpkins, and the pas tures full of golden-rod and blue gentians.

The apple-orchards in New England were introduced by Governor Winthrop, in honor of which Governor's Island in Boston Harbor was sdven him, — an island once covered with apple-trees. The apple found its true home in Rhode Island, and the orcho Hs of the Mount Hope Lands became especially famous for their fii,. fruit. The Hampden family consisted of John and Mary Hampden, and their two children, Helen and Charles. The father was a captain of one of the Narragansett Bay steamers, and as the port was Provi dence, he was much away from home. A maiden sister of Captain Hampden, Helen Mar Hampden, who was familiarly known as Aunt Mar, lived with his family. Mary Hampden had taken great interest in the education of her two children, and had especially instructed them in the local history of the region.

But, careful as she was in this respect, her efforts were exceeded by those of her sister-in-law, Aunt Mar. Aunt Mar was a natural story-teller. Like many New England girls, she had in her early days been a diligent student of Sir Walter Scott's works, and also of those of Irving and Cooper, thus cultivating a taste for the traditions of her own State and neighborhood. She had been a fine singer, one of the traditional church choir, and she delighted in the old ballads of Scott, Moore, Burns, and the musical compositions of Bishop and Malloy. To Aunt Helen Mar had been largely intrusted the education of Captain Hampden's children. She had done her work well, and her pupils were a credit to her. Helen ZLGZAG JOURNEYS IN THE BRITISH ISLES. Hampden was now sixteen years of age, and Charles was fourteen.

Both were well prepared for a collegiate course. Aunt Mar had means. She had been left a small amount of prop erty in her girlhood. This had been invested for her in the savings banks, after the old New England way, and it now amounted to a considerable sum. The maiden ladies of most of the old New Eng land country families are well to do, and use their means with a prudent benevolence. From girlhood Aunt Mar had wished to visit England. During all her intelligent years she had been interested in England, Scotland, and Ireland. She had read so much of the wonderful palaces, castles, and cathedrals, that she longed to see for herself the glories of Blen heim and Hampton Court. She had especially desired to visit the places associated with the founders of the American colonies, — Sir Walter Raleigh, the Plymouth Pilgrims, Penn, Lord Baltimore, Ogle thorpe; to go to old Boston, and Plymouth, and Bristol, and especially to the places where John Hampden had struggled for the liberties of the English race.

She had often promised Helen and Charles that she would one day take them on such a journey. " To visit the places of the American pioneers," she used to say, referring to the old English towns, " would be a historic education." The home of the Hampdens was on what is called Bristol Neck, on the highlands overlooking the Narragansett and Mount Hope Bays, the towns of Warren, Bristol, and old Swansea, the city of Fall River, and the island of Rhode, where beautiful Newport looks out on the sea. It was not far from the old Indian town of Poka noket, that Indian fishing-camp where enormous heaps of shells are still found buried in the hillsides. Here the summers are cool and bright, and the long winters invite studious pursuits. " When I have finished my part of your education," said Aunt Mar one day to Helen and Charles, " I hope to be able, as I have said, to spend a summer with you in Great Britain ; and I shall HAMPTON COURT BRITISH LX THE ISLES. 21 make it a part of your present education to tell you legends and stories of the places that I hope to see."

So historical story-telling became a part of Aunt Mar's methods of education. Aunt Mar's stories were peculiar. Their historical basis was always correct, but she took a poet's license in telling them. She had one of those poetic minds that like to find a foundation stone of truth and build a palace of fancies upon it. The greatest minds have pursued the same methods, — Shakspeare, Scott, Goethe, following Homer, Herodotus, and the ancient dramatists ; and with such examples it is not strange that the most simple neighborhood story teller should love to create and build. Every imaginative mind likes to make its own world. So much are people governed by imagi nation, that few minds like the rude corrections which critics make of their favorite stories. Few people like to be told that Dido and Æneas did not live in the same age; that Duncan died in his bed, and not by the red hand of Lady Macbeth; that the Iser was far from the battlefield of Linden; that the "high hall" where "Belgium's capital " gathered " her beauty and her chivalry " was a small room ; or that our own stories of Captain John Smith and the lovely Indian princess, and General Gates and the Boston boys, will not bear the critic's spectacles.

A historical legend comes to stand for a truth, and it is the most dramatic representation of it that people like. There are but few books of real history. Most history is romance, — creations and colorings, that follow the theories of their writers. Carlyle's " French Revolution " is really an epic poem ; and works like John S. C. Abbott's " Napoleon Bonaparte " are color ings of the past. Aunt Mar had a very active imagination, and used very emphatic and often provincial language to express her glowing thoughts. But the impressions left by her stories were usually correct historically and morally. We say morally, for she only claimed that her stories were based on facts, and that the picturing was only what she thought it to be. She saw the whole world through her own New England spectacles, after the manner of many greater minds.

It was a quiet winter evening on the Mount Hope Lands, and in the home of the Hampdens at Pokanoket. The short lonesome DEVONPORT days of November were over; the first December snows had fallen, and the long nights of the holidays were drawing near. Captain Hampden was in Providence ; the rest of the family were gathered around the open fire ; the studies of the day were done, the books closed, and Aunt Mar had prepared the usual historical story that concerned one of the places she hoped to see when she should visit England with her niece and nephew. " I have a story of old Plymouth, which I am going to tell to-night," she said. " Old Plymouth, you know, is one of the places BRITISH IN THE ISLES. 23 that we shall wish to see when we go abroad. It is an old seaport and market town in Devonshire, about two hundred and fifty miles from London.

We could reach it in a single day from London. It is situated at the mouth of the Plym, — Plym-mouth. It was from Plymouth that the approach of the Spanish Armada was first PLYMOUTH seen. It is a city of ships as well as forts and houses. Hence sail the vessels for the Cape of Good Hope, the West Indies, and the Mediterranean, and hence sailed some of the ships that brought the first colonists of New England. It is a place full of legends and stories ; and one of the most curious of its old stories concerns the romantic old admiral Sir Francis Drake, and I will call it — SIR FRANCIS DRAKE AND HIS SHIP OF GOLD. Sir FRANCIS DRAKE once lived on a beautiful estate upon the Tay, but he was born upon the Tavy. His father was poor, and had twelve children, and he hardly could have believed, had an astrologer told him so, that any one of his twelve children would ever become a knight.

Young Francis' life was passed among the sailors of the seaport towns, like that of any common sailor-boy. But he was what would be called a bright boy, and he found a warm friend in the owner of a vessel; and when this friend died, he left to him his vessel, and the young man's fortune began with the gift- While coasting on the shores of England he chanced to hear of the wonderful exploits of Hawkins in the New World. Francis seems to have been all cars and imagination, and to have had perfect confidence that he could do what any one else had done. Boys who reap golden fortunes com monly have golden dreams, and with it a strong will to turn their imagin ings into solid events. He resolved to go to Plymouth, and to join one of the expeditions of Hawkins to the Spanish Main. He did so, and failed, returning poorer than when he started.

But his imagination and will did not fail ; and as long as these last there is hope of the success of any man. He fitted out a ship of his own; and as England was hostile to Spain at this time, he began to plunder the Spanish Main. A sea-robber or a pirate he would be called to-day ; but robbing the seas of hostile nations was not so badly regarded at that time. He became such a successful sea-robber that he was made an admiral, or vice-admiral, with great powers. Queen Elizabeth once banqueted on board one of his ships, and made him a knight, as you have seen in the pictures of old histories. You well know how he defeated the Invincible Armada of Spain. He was made a member of Parliament, and built a beautiful estate, on which he lavished the spoils of Peru and the treasures of the Indies.

But my story does not so much concern the wonderful career of the knight, as an incident of it that shows how greedy is poor human nature, and how little people understand the selfishness there is in the human heart. The New World was at this time regarded as one vast storehouse of gold and gems, and the return of a ship from these rich regions was an event that occasioned the greatest excitement in the port to which she SEIZURE OF SPANISH TREASURE-SHIPS BY ORAKF BRITISH IN THE ISLES. 27 came. The whole country turned out at such times to see her enter the harbor. Men went away poor, and returned in ships full of riches. As the spoiling of Peru had enriched Spain, so the spoiling of the Spanish Main in turn enriched England. The story of the Incas and their wealth had filled all Europe; and though the golden empires of the Incas no longer existed, people still regarded South America and the islands of the Spanish Main as places of mountains of mines and valleys of treasures.

To them the very name of America meant gold. Sir Francis was the discoverer of California,1 and the first to find gold there. He would have found gold there or anywhere, had there been any to find, as you may well believe. To him gold was the world, and few men ever gained a larger share ; and he was the first to sail around the golden world and to find out how great and rich it was. Among the great conquests of Sir Francis Drake on the Spanish Main was the surprise and capture of Nombre de Dios, near the Isthmus of Darien, a town rich with treasures, which he plundered, loading his ship with spoils. After this exploit he crossed the isthmus and saw the Pacific, and then prepared to return to England with his treasures, expecting to reach the port of Plymouth late in the summer. It was Aug. 9, 1573- The good people of Plymouth had made their way to church, and many of them had become drowsy under the sermon in the sul try air.

The minister was giving them a long discourse, possibly on selfish ness and the evil of laying up treasures on earth and conforming to the world. The great sea stretched away from the mouth of the Plym, a gentle breeze perhaps breaking the languid air. Suddenly, amid these tranquil surround ings, a British flag was seen rising above the sea. The church clerk saw it first, and was startled, and grew worldly-minded, and whispered his discovery to the beadle. " I will slip out and see," said the beadle. And he quietly vanished, saying as he went, " I will return in a few minutes." But the beadle did not return. The flag rose higher, and came more distinctly into view. The clerk whispered to one of the vestrymen, " I think that there is a ship coming into port." " I will slip out and see," said the vestryman.

And he too vanished, saying, " I will be back soon." 1 It had been visited before by an adventurer at the time of Cortez. But he did not come back. The other vestryman was partly asleep, when the clerk touched him. " There is a ship coming into port," said the clerk. " What of that? " whispered the vestryman, drowsily. BRIDGE OVER THE PLYM (PLYMOUTH). ' It may be laden with gold — from the Americas." "Gold ! gold ! Where 's my hat? " And he too vanished, promising to be back soon. The boys heard the whispered word " gold," and gazed from the open window toward the sea. " A ship of gold," said one. In a moment he was gone, and all the others followed him. The good old rector became disturbed, and he may be supposed to have grown very emphatic at this point against worldliness. " A ship of gold !

" whispered one to another. " A ship of gold ! " it ran through the church. BRITISH IN THE ISLES. 29 " Sir Francis Drake and a ship of gold," was the low-voiced murmur. As often as the good rector bent down his head to quote the Scriptures, one after another of the men slipped out of the door. The women followed ; for when did there ever appear a sight of good fortune that the women did not follow the men to see it? The old rector wondered that every time he raised his eyes from the good Book his congregation should look so thinned. Where had they gone? What had happened? At last, after scrutinizing a very hard passage, he raised his head and found the church empty, — all except one old man who was blind, and one old man who was deaf, and one old sailor who was fast asleep. " Where is my congregation gone?

" exclaimed the rector. " What have they done? What has come to pass? " " I heard something said of a ship of gold," said the blind man. " Where is the door?" And he too felt his way toward the open street, and tried to follow the crowd. The good rector was now left to preach to the deaf man and the sleeping sailor. But the deaf man could see. The congregation had gone, and not for nothing, he well knew. There must have been something wonderfully powerful to cause them to leave, — something to be gained somehow, he reasoned. " I cannot hear, anyhow," he said to the parson; " so I will go and see what has happened." The old rector went on with his discourse. Presently the sailor awoke, and found the church empty. He stared about him, wondering if he had lost his senses. "What has happened ?

" said he. " Gold," answered the parson. "Gold! Where? where?" " They are crying in the streets, ' A ship of gold ! a ship of gold ! ' Do you not hear them? " " A ship of gold, and you preachin' about the old patriarchs ! Why did you not wake me up before? " The sailor made a few strides, and the church was indeed empty. " It is evident that it is the will of the Lord that I should go too," said the rector. " The empty benches do not need a preacher." So the good rector took off his gown and followed his flock to the wharves, and looked out on the summer sea. And the ship of gold came slowly in, and the people hailed the returning adventurer. That night the pastor and his people had sufficient relief from the hot day's excitement to think. They consulted together, and agreed that a Sunday had been lost, and that it was a great mystery how there should be so much world liness in the world. For many years the little port of Plymouth was wont to recall the lost Sunday of Francis Drake and his Ship of Gold.

Chapter II

A PROPOSED JOURNEY TO THE SCENES OF THE OLD ENGLISH FIRESIDE STORIES JOURNEY to see the scenes and associations of the old English legends and historical stories, — how best could it be made ? This had been a study of Aunt Mar for several years. The good lady was not rich, so she must practise economy. " I think we will go by the way of Quebec and the Straits of Belle Isle, and return by the way of Halifax, she said one day. " That plan would give us so much historical ground on the way. Besides, we should be only five days on the open ocean from the Straits of Belle Isle, and that would be quite enough. People have to get used to the ocean, I am told." 1 Where should we land ? " asked Charlie. ' At Liverpool, — the world's great city of ships.' ' Where should we go from Liverpool ? " " We should wish to visit the English Lake District.

Here lived the so-called Lake poets, Wordsworth, Coleridge, and Southey, and there wrote De Quincey and Christopher North (Professor Wilson). It is a resrion of stories. We should wish to see the scenes of Words worth's ballads, and of the ' Excursion.' You remember Wordsworth's ' Goody Blake and Harry Gill,' and Coleridge's ' Ancient Mariner,' and Southey's ' Battle of Blenheim,' and Christopher North's ' A Child carried away by an Eagle.' The Lake District is only a few hours' ride from Liverpool." " And then ? " asked Charlie. " We would go to the land of Burns. I always wished to see the scenes of ' Auld Lang Syne ' and ' Ye Banks and Braes o' Bonny Doon.' " ABOVE QUEBEC. And I, of ' Tarn O'Shanter,' " said Charlie. And I, of the ' Cotter's Saturday Night,' " said Helen " Then we would go to Abbotsford," said Aunt Mar.

" There we should be in story-land indeed. The Tweed, the ruins of Melrose Abbey, and the very places that inspired Scott would all have tongues for us." " We should wish to visit old Boston," said Helen. SCENES OF THE OLD ENGLISH FIRESIDE STORIES. 33 ' Yes," said Aunt Mar, " old Boston and Lincoln, whence the founders of Boston came. We might go by the way of Wakefield, as our visit is to be one to stories. There are the old homes and places of the following people that we should certainly wish to find : Sir Walter Raleigh, the founder of Virginia; the Plymouth Pilgrims and the Colonists of Massachusetts Bay; Henry Hudson; William Penn and Roger Williams ; Lord Baltimore, Oglethorpe, and John Hampden, who was the real father of English and Amer ican liberty." Aunt Mar, who was very proud of her name, made the last remark with great emphasis.