The Niger and the Benueh. Travels in Central Africa ... From the French by Mrs. George Sturge

Front matter

TRAVELS jx CENTRAL AFRICA LONDON : miNTED BY SPOTTJ.HVVOOOB AND LO., SEW-STBEKT SQUABS AND PARLIAMENT STUBKT To face page 2G8. SLAVE MARKET AT IGBEGBE. The slave dealer dues his best to show off their good qualities. — (Page 2G7.) THE NIGER AND THE BENUEH TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AFRICA by ADOLPHE BURDO MEMBER OF THE BELGIAN GEOQRArniCAL SOCIETY FROM THE FRENCH BY MRS GEORGE STURGE 1 L?a fleuves sont de grands chemitis qui niarch^t' Pascal LONDON RICHARD BENTLEY & SON, NEW BURLINGTON STREET Publishers in ©rbinaiji lo $rr Blajestn tbt Qimn 1880 All rights reserved PAGB 1 64 CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Embarkation — ' The Equator ' — Lisbon and the Tagus — The Coast of Africa — Amphibious Negroes — The Bay of Dakar — The Dead Griot — A Nocturnal Fete — First Night in Africa— Natural Features of Dakar — Native Tribes — The King of Dakar .

Chapter II

Kufisque — Its Trade — Choice of a Guide — The Faithless Camel-driver — M. Laud's Plantation — Sport — Biram's Riding — M'Bidjem — Encampment at M'Den — Moorish Caravan — We Lose our Way 17

Chapter III

Kayor — Oasis of Tottall — Grey Monkeys — Lost in the Forest — Nocturnal Concert — Swamps — Biram's History — The Telegraph — BiStete — Encampment among the Sand-hills — Crabs — A Hyæna — Mouit — St. Louis — Senegambian Tribes — A European House of Business — Politics — General Faidherbe — The Island of Goree 36 CHAPTER IT. The 'Corisco' — The Gambia — St. Marie deBathurst — Cassamanza, the Rio-Pongoand Mellikuri — An Old Acquaintance — Visit to Free Town — The Coast of Kroo — My twelve Kroomen — The Ivory Coast — The Gold Coast— Delta of the Niger— I leave the ' Corisco ' Contents. VI

Chapter V. Taoe

Bonny — The Yellow Fever — Brass — King Okia — Lost among the Creeks — Despondency of the Crew — An Aquatic Labyrinth — Want of Fresh Water— The Reefs of the Bar— A Night of Agony — Akassa 86

Chapter VI

Two Deserters — The Nun River — Hail to the Niger ! — Hostile Villages — Conflicts and Chastisement — The River Wari — Aboh — A Tribe of Pirates — N'Doni — Factories on the Niger — An Outpost of Savages — Oxen — Ossomare — King Odogou . . 104

Chapter VII

Alenso and Oko — Onitsha — Two more Deserters— Negro Market — Various Native Types — The Copper-coloured Race — The Cannibals — The King of Obi Okazua and his Court — Agriculture at Onitsha — Woman in the Negro Countries — We set out in Canoes— Hippopotamus Hunt ....... 122

Chapter VIII

Accra — KiDg Oputa — A Saturnalia — Two Royal Guests — Oputa's Flotilla — Oboshi Country — Esuama-Ebo — Tattooing of the Cannibals — Religion of Ebo — Aro, a Holy City — Negro Philosophy — A Compulsory Visit 140

Chapter IX

King Ogene — ' You shall not go to the East ' — The Oracle The Soldiers' Oath — NorthwarJs — Study of the Negroes The Family — War— The Anaya — N'Sube Country — Attack by the Natives— Fight in Canoes— A Wounded Man— Emotion of the Crew 155

Chapter X

The Annam Tribes — The Negress's Anklet — Fishino- Tackle Ogbekin— Meeting -with Oputa again — Departure of the Onitsha Men — My Projects — Death of Go-fast — The Festival of the Way. — Human Sacrifices ..... Contents. VII

CHAPTER XL PAJ.

K Oputa's Wives— The Festival of the Moa— The Dead Man Disinterred—We leave Ogbekin— Asaba— A Fetish Temple- King Obi-Igweri— The two hundred and forty Kings of Asaba —Ijebu and Ijesha— Iddah— Earliest Traces of Mussulmans —Mountainous Country — A Fantastic Night . . . .183

Chapter XII

An Ill-omened Excursion — Four fresh Deserters — A Sad Awaking — My Canoe Empty— Despondency — A Critical Moment — Unexpected Succour — The Bishop of the Niger — Lokoya — Negro Manufactures — A poor old Woman — Mount Patteh — Welcome Hospitality 108

Chapter XIII

Biography of the Bishop of the Niger — The Finger of God — The ' Henry Venn ' — On the Benueh — Imaha — The Grand Marabout — Agimi, the Colossal Wurman — The Camp of King Kpanaki — The Conference — N'Dako — Farewell to the Bishop of the Niger — His Letter to the King of the Belgians . . .214

Chapter XIV

Study of the Benueh — Hypothesis — Stanley and the Loualaba — History of the Mussulman Invasion of the Equatorial Plateau — Sukoto, Bida, and Rabbah — In the Country of the Akpotos — The River Okari — A Snake — A Fortunate Meeting — Ogbari and MKing Zumbade — Religion and Agriculture — An Alarm — A Bloody Festival 237

Chapter XV

Return to the Niger — Igbegbe — Slave Market — The 'Edgar' — Attack by the Igbiras — The Penal Code of Bida — Descent of the Niger — The English Consul — Coup d'œil of Dahomey — The Firm of R6gis, Senr. — On Board the ' Roquelle ' — Return to Belgium . . . . . . . . . .265 a ILLUSTRATIONS. TO FACE page 16 The King of Dakar. The Couscous Pounder ' Courage, strong Men of Kroo ! Row on, row on! ' . . . . . . . „ 96 Hippopotamus Hunt . . . . ., 138 The .Soldiers' Oath . ,,160 Fight in the Creeks ......,, 168 King Oputa's Wives . . . . . ,, 186 A Critical Moment . . . . . „ 204 The Confluence of the Niger and the Benueh as seen from Mount Patteh . ,,212 The Bishop of the Niger . . . . . „ .218 King Kpanaki's Camp 234 Human Sacrifice and Nocturnal Fete among the Akpotos . . . . . . „ 264 Slave Market at Igbegbe „ THE NIGER AND THE BENUEH.

Chapter I. Embarkation

— ' THE EQUATOR ' — LISBON AND THE TAGUB — THE COAST OF AFRICA — AMPHIBIOUS NEGROES THE BAT OF DAKAR — THE DEAD ' GRI0T ' — A NOCTURNAL FETE — FIRST NIGHT IN AFRICA NATURAL FEATUEES OF DAKAR — NATIVE TRIBES — THE KING OF DAKAR. On a cold misty morning, April 5, 1878, the ' Equator,' on board of which I had embarked at Bordeaux, steamed majestically out of the Gironde. She was built for the Brazil service, and is one of the finest mail steamers of the Compagnie Fran ttii.se des Mmageries maritimes. She was to land at Dakar, a port of Senegambia, which I had Red upon as my point of departure for an exploring expedition in Central Africa. The captain of the ' Equator,' M. Monge, of the Ptoyal Navy, and knight of the Legion of Honour, is not only a perfect model of a seaman, but also a gentleman and an artist.

With a B The Ni'o-er and the Benueh. <2> 2 thorough knowledge of his profession he unites the frankest cordiality, and, although so much occupied, he finds time to draw and paint with skill. It is a piece of good fortune for travellers to meet with such a man, and I for one feel much indebted to him for his kindness and services. On Sunday, April 7, we cast anchor at Corunna, in a bay surrounded with picturesque mountains. We stayed there a few hours, and by the evening of the next day we sighted Lisbon. But the sea was rough, and the entrance of the Tagus is dan gerous at night, so we had to tack until daylight. For all travellers, and particularly for one bound for the unknown regions of Africa, Lisbon is full of interest. It was there, in the humble chapel of a convent of the Hieronymites, now half in ruins, that Vasco di Gama offered his last prayer to God, before embarking for the mysterious continent.

It was there also, near the same chapel, long afterwards, when Gama had taught his country men to double the Cape of Storms without fear, that King Emmanuel built a magnificent temple in memory of his exploits and in gratitude to God. The poor little ruined chapel and the splendid church form a curious contrast. The sight of them cannot fail to recall the strange vicissitudes, the ups and downs, of the great navigator's life. How times have changed ! To-day, instead of op position, the pioneers of civilisation find help and The Voyage. 3 encouragement on all hands. The example is a lofty one ; a king places himself generously at the head of a noble enterprise, animates his people's courage, stimulates their zeal, and finds his re ward in the accomplishment of the beneficent project of opening the gates of Africa to Europe, and the treasures of Europe to Africa.

The entrance of the Tagus is very fine, flanked by Moorish towers, above which rise the light houses, the pilot's guiding stars. Very beautiful also is the tower of Belem, that jewel of architec ture, which no one can ever forget who has had the good fortune to see it, and which the artist has so often fondly reproduced. But we are now out again on the open sea, which has hitherto not been very friendly to us, and is now roaring and heaving so that the ' Equa tor ' is tossed like a nutshell on the waves, to the great discomfort of sensitive stomachs. On April 12, we pass the Canary Islands, giving them a good ofling, so that I can only distinguish in the distance the peak of Teneriffe with its snow-clad summit, while at its base flowers bloom and birds sing in eternal spring. Twenty-four hours later, the climate suddenly changes.

When we left Europe it was cold ; now the heat is overpowering ; we welcome a breeze and ransack our boxes for African garments and head-gear. B2 During the night of the 14th we stop. On the 15th, early in the morning, I try to get a glimpse of the coast of Africa, but it is obscured in a thick fog-. The lighthouse erected on one of the Mamelles' mountains which command Dakar is not yet in sight, and we prudently wait until the fog has cleared off, for there may be reefs near. At length, towards nine o'clock, it begins to disperse ; it condenses, collects at the base of the mountains and on the shores, and through the breaks in it I can see with my field-glass trees with leaves as big as the sails of a windmill, masses of verdure, and strong trunks with tufted crowns like gigantic candelabra.

This is Africa indeed, with cocoa-nut-trees and proud palms looking like sen tinels. We are all standing on the bridge silent and composed, and I said to myself, ' Welcome, land of perils ! What fate hast thou in store for me? Saturnine country! Having devoured so many others, wilt thou deign to be propitious to me? God grant that it may be so.' The ' Equator ' meanwhile is slowly proceeding, and after doubling the point of Almadies and Cape Bernard, and coasting the island of Goree, she enters the Bay of Dakar. She has hardly cast anchor when canoes come up to her from all sides and form a circle round her. The natives, standing in them with their paddles in the air, utter unintelligible cries. The Amphibious Negroes. 5 strange sight reminds one of the third act of the ' Africaine.' But in this case they are not medi tating a fight, but only trying to do a little busi ness, the secret of which the natives of these lati tudes have discovered, and whose origin may be told in a few words.

They are not allowed to board vessels in the roads, but are permitted to paddle round these floating cities in canoes. One day some of the passengers amused themselves by throwing pieces of money to them, one of which accidentally fell into the sea. The negro who was watching for it at once dived and brought it up between his teeth. Ever since, passengers have amused themselves by throwing money into the water, and the natives take good care not to leave it there, for out of this diversion tbey make, it ap pears, a pretty fat living. These Africans are, in fact, almost amphibious, and in aquatic sports might compete with porpoises. I should add, that tbe numerous sharks which infest the coast disdain their flesh. Is the odour, sui generis, which is ex haled from their bodies, repugnant to them?

I cannot say, but the fact is certain. At Dakar, a French soldier, fishing one day with a line, bad bis foot carried off by a shark, that was on the look-out for prey, and died from the effects. The negroes, more fortunate than he, can dive with im punity. From the bridge of the steamer we can discern the houses of the Europeans at Dakar, all built close to the bay. Great embankments have made the shore accessible all the year round, and pro tect it against the inroads of the sea, which in winter are very dangerous. A French cutter, the ' Verdeuil,' is at anchor. Visits are exchanged ; the authorities of the port board our vessel, and we exchange news of Europe and the Colonies. I consult them about getting my luggage ashore, and at length, about five o'clock, I leave the 'Equator,' after saying good-bye to the officers and passengers, with whom I have been on very friendly terms, and I do not leave them without regret.

They press my hand without many words, but their long and affectionate looks sufficiently ex press their fears for me. One of the first things which catches the eye on landing at Dakar is a gigantic baobab-tree with its bare and wide -spreading branches. In the summer season the baobab loses its leaves, but they come again with the fertilising rains of winter. It then bears an enormous fruit, called monkey bread, because the simian race is very fond of it. Tradition says that when Vasco di Gama landed on the African shore he knelt down and prayed under the shade of this tree, and for this reason it was long held in veneration ; now it is used for mooring boats. The harbour-master had undertaken to deposit Negro Village. 7 my luggage in the general depot, so having no anxiety on this score I had no sooner landed than I began to explore Dakar.

Leaving the European dwellings behind me, I ventured into the negro village. It was a mass of huts, most of them very much like hay-cocks. A fence shuts it off from the whites, and protects it from the wild beasts which prowl at night round the poultry-yards. It was on April 15, and the moon was full. In the shadow I suddenly saw some bipeds glide by and vanish noiselessly into the darkness. Some were naked, others wore loose garments of white or dark blue, out of which emerged a black head at the top and two feet of the same colour at the bot tom. They might have been taken for spectres wandering in the darkness. All at once my attention was arrested by tbe singing and cries of women proceeding from the open door of a hut. I went nearer, and by the fight of wicks burning in palm oil I saw the dead body of a negro frightfully emaciated, round which a dozen young negresses were gesticulating with deafening yells.

The dead man was a Griot, and they were celebrating his funeral rites. It is the custom on the death of a Griot for young girls to dispute with the evil spirit for his soul, and try to drive him away with their singing and cries. Weary of the noise, I followed a troop of negroes, negres.ses, and children, who seemed to be flocking to some nocturnal ceremony, and was thus led to the sea-shore, where a considerable crowd had already collected round a band of at least forty musicians arranged in a semicircle. With his face turned towards the moon, the leader of the orchestra was conducting a strange concert. The choice and variety of the instruments left much to be desired ; they consisted of tam-tams and tambourines, cut out of the trunk of a tree, and covered with asses' skin, and fifes made in the most primitive fashion from stems of bamboo.

Nevertheless, there was something grand about this orchestra. Mozart and Beethoven may be heard anywhere in Europe, but Africa is the last refuge of barbarous music. With out suspecting it, I had been present at a religious fete which the Joloffs celebrate at every full moon. I listened for a good while to this rude, strange hannony — sometimes the clamorous fife set up a diabolical solo, or the tam-tams took up the cadence, or the tambourine broke wildly in — now and then a voice was blended with these fantastic perform ances and a monotonous chant was introduced. Then men, women, children, and musicians altogether made the air resound with their howls. And the crowd seemed like a whirlwind, for the negroes never conduct a sacred ceremony without dancing, and what weird, infernal dancing it was !

It was delirium, madness, wizard orgies, with Beel zebub leading the round. Madame Ginoyers Hotel. 9 Nevertheless, although you may be in Africa attending a negro concert, an empty stomach has no ears. Where could I dine ? Captain D'Au bigny, on board the ' Equator,' who was on his way back to St. Louis, had given me this advice : ' At Dakar, if you are hungry, thirsty, or sleepy, go to Madarne Ginoyer's ; you will find there a good table and good lodging.' Nothing could be better ; but in the middle of the night how was I to find this blessed place? I spoke to the first negro I met in French, but had scarcely opened my mouth when he was off. A second, to whom I repeated my question, also ran away without answering me. I then remembered having seen tbe European habi tations on the shore, and taking my bearings, before long, reached the Hotel de France et des Messageries, kept by the lady in question.

There I partook of a dinner which, though not sumptuous, seasoned as it was by hunger, seemed to me delicious. After the roast I thought I would ask the little negress who was waiting on me for some bread, reflecting, however, that sbe would be sure not to understand me. ' Tout de suite, monsieur,' she replied. 0 ' local colouring ' ! My negress could speak French ! Her name was Catherine, and I was being waited upon by a poor girl, who, except her colour, was very much like her companions in Europe. It was now time to tbink about a lodging, and I innocently hoped to find one in Madame Ginoyer's hotel. Great was my disappointment on being told that all her beds were engaged ! What was I to do ? In spite of the lateness of the hour I had to turn out again, accompanied this time by Cath erine, who was instructed by her mistress to show me the way to Zimmer's. Zimmer is a good-natured fellow, from Alsace, who has never refused to do a service for anybody, nor missed the opportunity of turning a penny.

I had no sooner explained to him the object of my visit, than he took down a key, which was hanging on the wall, and turning towards the door invited me to follow. ' Ah ! ' said I, ' are you not going to give me a bed here?' ' No, I have only one room here, and that is let to M. Bouchet, a sepoy lieutenant ; but I will take you to my other house.' Good heavens ! then I had to turn out again. On the threshold Zimmer stopped. ' 0,' he said, ' I forgot, I must take some gauze, and a hammer and tacks, to put up a mosquito-curtain to your bed.' Dismayed at this fresh delay, I said, ' No, no, never mind about that.' ' As you please,' was the reply. Had I been able to see his face at that moment I should certainly have seen a smile, with a little Mosquitoes. 11 pity and a good deal of mischief in it.

We set out, and at length reached the place. I was very tired, and wished for nothing so much as to get to sleep. However, I could not refrain from first making a tour of inspection round my room. No wardrobe, no window, but four doors, two of which were glazed, and opened on to a gallery which ran at the back and front of the house ; most of the houses in Senegambia are like this, and have no second storey. In the middle of the room were a table and three chairs, a bed in one corner, and in another a little board set up on four legs, with a jug and basin on it— but no water. Water is very scarce at Dakar, and is only supplied by the authorities to the officers and soldiers ; the inhabitants have to get it by digging wells, every day, on the downs. Having finished my inventory, I blew out the candle.

But what is this buzzing sound ? Alas ! mosquitoes. Without the least consideration for my fatigue they attack my unfortunate person. I figbc them as furiously as they assault me. I slay them by dozens, but all in vain. They come and go, they buzz, they get enraged, they are impla cable. At day-break I get up in despair, without ever having closed my eyes. What an experience for my first night in Africa ! The next morning I went out early, for in Senegambia one must beware of the sun. By eight o'clock it is very hot ; by eleven it is scorching ; later on, it is baking, roasting, and woe to the man who encounters its fiery rays bare-headed. Dakar is the principal point of the peninsula of Cape Verde ; although the Island of Goree, close by, may have more trade, it is an important centre from the numerous works which the French have executed there, and there is room for it to extend itself, while Goree is limited to its rock.

The es tablishment of the ocean mails, the port, the general depot, the post and telegraph office, which are to be in an excellent position, the arsenal, where there are well-furnished workshops, the trade fostered by steamers running four times a month between Bordeaux and Brazil — all this insures unrivalled supremacy to Dakar. At the same time the merchants might increase its prosperity, by following up the traffic with the interior, for it appears that but little effort is made to attract the native cara vans, which, by degrees, leave oft' coming. In this respect Goree and Rufisque display greater activity, and it is one cause of their prosperity. The population of the peninsula consists of Joloff Mussulmans, who form, by far, the largest part ; Serrawollies, who are still heathens, and worship two gods, namely, Takar, the great judge, and Tiorak, the good god ; and Nones, a variety of the Serrawollies, from whom they differ in some of their customs, among others, the laws of inheritance.

The Griots and Joloffs. 13 Among both these tribes, the priests have barl lar ous beliefs and practices, which are gradually dis appearing with the advance of Islamism. For instance, when they want to convict a thief or a sorcerer, they have recourse to ordeal by fire or poisoned water. Lastly, there are in the peninsula, as at many other places, Griots, who follow a nomad life, are much given to drunkenness, have no defined wor ship, and wander from village to village, playing the tambourine. Having become, after death, the prey of the evil spirit, instead of being buried their remains are placed in the hollow trunks of trees. Their comrades try to rescue their souls, and I have de scribed how the young Griot girls set about tearing them from the claws of Satan. The Joloffs recognise marriage, but they think polygamy honourable, and are permitted to have four legitimate wives.

Although abolished by French law, slavery still exists among the natives, but the slaves are, in reality, only servants, and arc rarely ill-treated. The Joloffs have, besides, customs which are quite patriarchal, as for instance the division of lands for cultivation, which takes place every year. Their king, the Bourba, as he is called, distributes them according to the number of women and children in a family, and he always scrupulously respects the rights of the proprietors who cultivate their lot well. The supreme power is hereditary, through the female line. When a royal line becomes extinct, the nation elects a new chief, and chooses him from one of the families who are privileged to provide the country with masters. The king of Dakar, although considered by Europeans to be only a petty king, of no importance, is absolute monarch of his people.

I did not fail to pay him a visit, and am glad I did so, for he is a most original specimen of a sovereign. Whether it is his broad flat nose, or his twinkling eyes, or his high cheek-bones, or his thick lips displaying two rows of white teeth, something or other gives his face a perpetual grin. Perhaps it is all these put together, or the absence of care, and the peace of a good conscience. However that may be, it is a fact that the king of Dakar is always grinning. He lives in a hut, or rather several huts, like those of his subjects, but the dwellings of his wives are round. The hut into which I was taken was rather large ; at least, there was room to sit down in it, which was not the case in those of all the native chiefs whom I visited. As far as one can judge of age from a black face, the king of Dakar may be about five-and-forty.

Besides his long bou-bou, he had thrown over his shoulders a large cloak, without seam, an old European garment which had evidently experienced more than one The King of Dakar. 15 vicissitude before it reached his august shoulders. His headdress was a cap or hood, fitting closely to his temples, surmounted by a very broad brimmed straw hat ; he was covered with charms .and amulets of all sorts and sizes. Several negroes, his ministers and courtiers, I presume, were stand ing near him, anxiously awaiting my arrival, or rather the customary presents from a stranger. Having taken my seat, I told the black mon arch about my departure from Europe, described the wonders of my country, and informed him of my design of exploring the interior of Africa. Did he comprehend the gist of my harangue? 1 would not undertake to say so, for I must own that to my confusion, or rather perhaps to his own, he made no reply.

But when he saw me put my hand in my pocket, his face, by nature radiant with smiles, assumed such a look of complete satisfaction that I laughed too, which, however, did not offend him in the least, but only increased his good humour. Alas ! if the gods depart, so does the majesty of African kings ; this poor mortal was looking out for the tribute or charity which travellers always offer him, and which generally means a forty-sou piece — sometimes even less, for silver coin is current in Dakar. It is said that he makes a pretty good income out of it, for a good many steamers put into port, always having a number of passengers on board either going to or returning from Brazil. Without being lavish I was rather more generous, and after giving him some money I offered him four bead necklaces and some coarse calico for his wives, at which he was greatly de lighted.

My readers would never guess what he gave me in return. Neither palm wine, nor a charm, nor an amulet, but his portrait, taken by a real photographer, M. Bonnevide, who lived for some time in Senegambia. Dakar is decidedly too civi lised, and I took my leave of it as soon as possible, to go in quest of more genuine savages. THE KING OF IlAKAIt.— (.rage 14.) TEE COUSCOUS rOt'NDER.— (Page 57.) i7

Chapter II. Kuitsque

— ITS TRADE CHOICE OF A GUIDE — THE FAITHLESS CAMEL- DRIVER — M. LAUD'S PLANTATION — SPORT — BIRAM'S RIDING M'BLDJEM — ENCAMPMENT AT NDEN — MOORISH CARAVAN — WE LOSE OUR, WAT. My preparations were quickly made ; my luggage was to remain at the depot until I had decided what route to take for the Niger. I did not know whether I should go by the west coast, by the Gulf of Guinea, or by Fouta-Jallon and Bakhoy. It would depend on the Colonial government, and I therefore resolved to go first to St. Louis, taking the inland route, that I might visit the provinces of Baol, Kayor, and Oualo. I bought a horse for myself and hired a mule to carry my provisions and tent as far as Rufisque, where I was told that I should easily meet with a camel, which would be of much more use to me than a mule. Zimmer undertook to procure saddles, and Madame Ginoyer, with whom I had continued to board, furnished me with provisions.

Thus provided, I left Dakar on April 20, accompanied by the good sepoy lieutenant, who went with me on horseback as far as Tiarroye. c The road from Dakar to Rufisque lies almost all the way along the shore, which is very fatiguing for the horses, and rather monotonous for travellers. I passed successively Tiarroye, M'Baw, and several small negro villages dotted along the shore, the inhabitants of which live by fishing. Young and old were dabbling in the water as if it were their native element. They fraternally share the pro duce of the day between them, and even the chil dren play their little part in it. Rufisque is built close to the sea, and is one of the most important centres of European commerce in Senegambia. The site on which it is built was noticed in 1364, by some sailors from Dieppe who were on their way to Sierra Leone.