Travels in Three Continents, Europe, Asia, Africa

Preface

. ■— .\\\\\\\\Vm. From an early age, my heart was kindled with the desire to see the world, to note the social life, and the manners and customs of the various races and communities inhabiting it, and, above all, to feast my soul upon the manifold beauties of nature, with which God has bountifully endowed this earth of ours. Born in poverty, and having spent my early years in a hard struggle with it, I was happily driven, by stress of circumstances, to leave my quiet home in Kathyawar, in quest of business abroad, even while I was a very young man. I was but a child, when I lost my father; and was yet in my teens, when I had the misfortune to lose my dear mother, who, throughout the long years of adversity and helpless widowhood, had been unfailing in her love and care of me. My heart was heavy with the bitter anguish of the bereavement.

But sorrow is sacred, in that along with its sore trials, it has a purifying and elevating effect upon the soul. While the cloud gradually disappears, the heart finds itself all the better for the fierce ordeal through which it has passed. I say this, because tribulations of the heart had a softening and humanising effect upon my mind and character. While I was working for my bread, my mind refused to be engrossed in worldly pursuits, to the exclusion of all higher and better impulses. My heart felt a yearning towards Nature, and the passion to behold her glorious works has grown by what it has fed on. One of my first travels abroad was a pilgrimage to Mecca ; and subsequently I undertook two long and extended tours, involving a pilgrimage to the sacred Shrines of Nature throughout the world. I seem to behold in them glimpses of a better world, and even to feel the promptings of it in my heart. I fervently thank my Creator for VI

PREFACE.

. endowing me with the capacity to enjoy the contemplation of natural beauty, wherever found, rendering me, in one sense, a citizen of the world. It is a misfortune of my life that my circumstances have precluded me from the benefits of higher education. But though a plain man, and unlearned, I am thankful to have had abundant opportunities for heart-culture, derived from the open book of nature. Fully conscious of my deficiencies and imperfections, I have not published these notes of my travels, be it distinctly understood, with any vain ambitions of authorship, or with the object of obtaining any pecuniary gain. The notes pretend to nothing more tban a simple record of what I saw and felt. I have not restrained the outpourings of my heart, for fear that men, with minds less fervent and emotional, may smile at them.

If the sentiments have no other merit, I can truly claim for them the fact of being genuine. My travels include Europe and America, as well as colonies inhabited by the white races, such as Australia, New Zealand and so on. The progress of these people in various walks and departments of life is simply wonderful ; and my countrymen have a vast deal to learn from their civilization, and from their arts and sciences, which have made enormous strides within the space of one century. While there is a boundless field, lying before my people, for their instruction and improvement, while there is much to fill the stranger in these lands with wonder and admiration, the careful observer will note that there is also a great deal of squalid poverty, and of vice and wickedness. But the spectator must not allow himself to be biassed into false opinions and deductions by the dark side of the picture.

If he goes about to make his observations in a fair and impartial spirit, he will see the immense advantages, moral and material, to be derived from an earnest

PREFACE.

. study of all that constitutes the life and society of the wbite peoples inhabiting the western countries. My principal object in publishing these pages is to give some idea, however faint and crude, to my countrymen, and parti cularly to my Mahomedan brethren, that beyond the narrow bounds of their home, there lies a world full of joy and beauty. It is my earnest hope that those among them, who are blessed with the means and the opportunity for travel, may come to know that there is a happiness beyond that which can be derived from the more or less sordid pursuits of life, — a happiness of a much purer and nobler kind. I make a present of this book to the Anjuman-i-Islam of Bombay, in the hope that it may be of some use to my community, which is yet very backward in education, and for whose progress and advancement the Anjuman [has been striving so wisely and so well.

It will thus be clear that these pages are not to be read with any expectations of literary or other excellence, because such has never been the aim or ambition of the writer. The sole purpose for which they are intended being a desire to do some good to my community, I think I can fairly claim the reader's indulgence for these Wanderings of a Plain Man. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. In Search Op Fortune

: FROM DHORAJEE TO CAPE TOWN. Early Struggles — Rangoon — The Burmese — Their manners and customs — Aden — Zanzibar — Mozambique and its natives — Quilimane — Sofala — Delagoa Eay — Portuguese misgovernment — A Zambezi "Beauty" — Natal, its trade and climate — Its political differences—Loyalty of the Indian settlers— Zulus and Zululand — The Dutch Republics — Treatment of the Indians — Cape Colony and its Capital — The Malay Musulmans — Cape of Good Hope— Kimberley — The Gold Mania 1

Chapter II. Arabia

Pemba — Zanzibar — In a pilgrim ship to Jeddah — Mecca and its traditions — The pilgrim's penance — Mina — Taif— Fruit gardens — The Zobeda and other canals — Medina — Tradition about its date trees — General impressions of Arabia — The Bedouins 16

Chapter III. Egypt

Suez— Cairo— *" Yusuff's Granaries "— " The House of Yusuff"— Pyramids and Mummies — The Dark Unknown — A Gigantic Statue — Tne House of Antiquities — The Egyptians, men and women — Alexandria — The Pharos Light-House — Cleopatra's Needle — Pompey's Memorial Tower — Alexander the Great — Vanity of human wishes — Euclid's 10D1D ••! ••• . •. *•• ••• , . , •«, ••• ■•• — o

Chapter IV. Syria

A Sea-storm — Beirout — Journey to Damascus — A Storm on Land — The Stern and Unbending Guides — Intense Cold — Snow and Sunshine — Damascus, an Immortal City — Massacre of the Innocents — Description of the City — Foot-prints of the Prophet — Strange History of a Mosque — A Saint's Tomb — Religious Traditions — Beauties of Nature — Back to Beirout — Jaffa- Ramleh — Jerusalem... ... 33

Chapter V. Jerusalem

Jerusalem — Its History — Population — General Appearance — The Flash from Heaven — Khaliph Omar's Mosque — The Sacred Rock and its Traditions— Other famous mosques — David's Court — David's Tomb — Round about Jerusalem — Rural Simplicity — Abraham's Tomb — The Dead Sea— The Village Beauty— Bethelham — The Church of Nativity — The Sacred Grotto — Moses' Tomb— Reflections — The Pious Herdsman — Turkish rest-houses — Back to Jaffa ... ... ... ... X CONTENTS.

Chapter VI. Turkey

Athens — Its ruins — Beautiful Smyrna — Constantinople — Its founder and general history — The Sultan's palace — Splendour and magnificence of "the Gorgeous East" — The Sultan's harem — Scutari — The City of Mosques -The St. Sophia Mosque — The Turks — Their general character — To Paris, London and Bombay — Mauritius — Back to Cape Town — Death of my child ... .. ... ... ... ... ... 51

Chapter VII

, MY SECOND TOUR : MELBOURNE. Sad parting from dear ones — Love of nature— Crossett Islands — Experentia docet — Melbourne — Its hotels — Its general description — Public buildings and institutions — Round about Melbourne — Courtesy and politeness of the natives ... ... ... ... ... 60

Chapter VIII. New Zealand

Tasmania — Reflections on its trade — Indian pedlers and hawkers — New Zealand — Its loveliness and fertility — Tinned meat — Places of note in New Zealand — Wellington — Wooden houses — The Maoris — Influence of Western Civilization — Auckland — The Land of Wonders — The Southerland Falls — Lakes, glaciers and warm baths — A terrible volcanic eruption ... ... ... ... ... 65

Chapter IX. Sydney

Sydney — Its harbour, public buildings and gardens — Parliament House and Town Hall — The " lungs " of the city — Lovely water-falls — Australian birds and rabbits — The Jenolan Caves — Interior of the caves — The Australian Hotel — The Chinese in Australia — Their ways and habits — The Indians in Australia ... 73

Chapter X. Australasian Islands

The Pacific Ocean— Coral Islands— The Coral Insects — New Guinea Its deadly climate — Its products — The Governor's House— Native dwellings — Missionary work— Terrible heat — Molucca Islands*— The Malays — Java — Its natives — Its malarial climate and products — Malay women — Burning fever and anxious thoughts — Death ofthe Chief Engineer My recovery — Singapore, a rising settlement — Its trade — The Chinese of Singapore — Jinrickshaws — The Malay and the Java Mussalmans... CONTENTS.

Chapter XI. China

Sail to China — Chinese passengers — Gambling and opium-eating — HongkoDg — The Victoria Peak — Burial grounds — Chinese houses — Dirt and filth — The Queen's birthday — Canton — River craft — Chinese food — The universal drink — A horrible fashion — The Irate Mandarin — Filthy habits — Position of Chinese women — Chinese superstitions — The old woman and the evil spirit — Flower boats — Chinese skill and ingenuity — Chinese temples — Story of the miraculous bell — The Chinese Mussalmans — The Lord of the Universe — Method of taking tbe Oath — The Chinese Court of Law — Sale of Justice — Chinese cruelties — The Parricide — Fate of his preceptor — Punishment of Rebels — Flaying alive — Amoy — Cheap labour —Curious inquiries ... ... ... 85

Chapter XII. Japan

Nagasaki — Superabundant water — The grave-yard — Funeral cer.emenies and festivals — The Japanese women — Weird, wonderful scenery — The Venice of the East — Haggling hawkers — China and Japan, a contrast — Yokahama, past and present — Japanese singing and dancing — Geisha women — At the play — Tokio — Theatre Street — Budhist temples — Ueno — The King's Garden — Progress of Japan — Colossal statues of Budha — Impressions about the Japanese — Public baths — Some Japanese customs — Frequent fires — The alarm bell — Disposal of the dead — Honolulu — Its political troubles and prospect... 97

Chapter XIII. Wonders Of The Yosemite Valley

San Francisco — The Chinese quarter — To the Yosemite Falls — A museum of wonders— The Bridal Veil— The Sentinal Fall— The Yosemite Fall — The Royal Arch — Ribbon and Vernal Falls— Inspiration Point — Cloud's Rest and other peaks— The Lost Arrow — A pretty tale — Fascination of Nature — Glacier Point — Objects from a distance — The Mirror Lake — Arborial monsters— The day of the American Independence— Magnificent buildings ... 108

Chapter XIV. The Salt Lake City And The Mormons

A triumph of engineering skill — The Salt Lake — Ogden — Salt Lake City— The Mormons— The Tabernacle— The New Church— The Endowment House- -Origin of the Mormon sect — Brigham Young — Settlement in Utah — A self-contained colony — Marriage laws of the Mormons — Colorado Springs — Pike's Peak — History of its discovery — The mountain railway — Scene from the Peak — Intense cold — Manitou — The Garden of the Gods — Mineral springs of Manitou — The Cave of Winds — The Mysterious organ — Colorado and its mineral waters ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... CONTENTS.

Chapter XV

CHICAGO— ITS WORLD-FAMOUS EXHIBITION. Chicago — Its rise and expansion — The United States Yards — A few magnificent statistics — Pulman Town —The Auditorium — The Golden Era of the United States — Magnificent preparations for the World's Fair — Fishery Buildings — Palace of Mechanical Arts — Columbus Museum — Typical Villages — Statue of Liberty — Columbia Fountain — Administration Hall — Manufactures and Arts Building — The Agricultural Building — The Egyptian Room — Turkish Dance — Glass Manufacture — Exhibition of Beautiful Women — Women's Building — Degradation of Indian Women — Contributions from Royalties — The Nursery — Art Building — Transportation Building — Electricity Building — Horticultural Building — Mines and Mining Building ... ... 120

Chapter XVI. The Mammoth Caves

Louisville — Discovery of the Caves— Their vast extent — The equable temperature — Marriage celebrations in the Cave — A case of conscience —The Gothic Altar— Purity Lake— Optical Illusions— The Giant's Coffin— The Bridge of Sighs — Bacon Chamber— The Dead Sea— Echo River— The Pilgrim's Progress— The Great relief— Sounds of the river — Cincinnati — Columbus — Sandusky — Buffalo City ... ... . 132

Chapter XVII. The Niagara Falls

A Museum of Wonders— The giant falls— The terrific water power- Meaning of "Niagara"— Disappearance of a fall— Spray clouds— The Horse-shoe Fall— Goat Island— The Hermit's Cascade— Increasing popularity of the Falls— Table Rock House— The Whirlpool- Captain Webb, the swimmer— The Cave of Winds— Expectation and reality a contrast— Bridges over the Niagara River- Possible future of Niagara — Two Parsee ladies ... .. ,,,, ... lot

Chapter XVIII. New York

Albany— Sail up the Hudson River— The New York Avenue— New York . or the Empire City— Its population and immense traffic— Theatres -Libraries— Its humble origin— Its suburbs— Trade and Industry— The Brooklyn Bridge-Statue of Liberty-City Hall-Memorials of George Washington -Newspaper Offices— The Central Park— Covey Island-The 'Cute Yankee-Brooklyn-End of the American Tour- General observations— Crossing the Atlantic— London ... CONTENTS.

Chapter XIX. Holland And Belgium

Holland — Parliament Houses — Rotterdam — Amsterdam — The King's Palace — Chrystal Palace — Diamond Industry — Peter the Great — A Reminder of Home — Belgium — Antwerp — Brussels — Its origin — Canals — Industries of Brussels — Parliament House and Court of Justice — Waterloo — Reflections ... 147

Chapter XX. Germany

Wonderful progress of Germany — Its position since the Franco-German War — Cologne — Its churches — St. Peter's Cathedral — The Magi Chapel — The Three Magi — General aspect of Cologne — St. Ursulla— The Slaughter of the Innocents — Coblentz, old and new — The Gibralter of the Rhine — Preparations for the reception of Royalty — Scenery of the Rhine country — Natural beauties, a comparison — Mayence — The spirit of Charlemagne — Gottenborg — Berlin — Interviewing the Ambassadors — The Jews in Russia — Police of Berlin and London, a contrast — Unter den Linden — Bradenberg Gate — The Column of Victory — Royal Palaces — The Woman in White — The Lessing Theatre — Statue of Frederick the Great — Figure of Otto I. — Unter den Linten Theatre — The Sedan Panorama — Potsdam, the City of Palaces — Emperor William I. — His simple habits — Copenhagen... 152

Chapter XXI. Denmark

Area and population — The Princess of Wales and the Empress of Russia — Elective Monarchy changed to absolute and hereditary monarchy — Compulsory education — Copenhagen — The remains of the Royal Palace — Collection of primitive articles— Tivoli Theatre and gardens— The Queen's Birthday— The Czar of Russia— His popularity with the poor —The Royal Family— Their courtesy and simplicity— Rosenberg Castle— The Danish king dying for his country— Language and customs— Norway, Land of the Midnight Sun— Constitution of Norway — Character of the country— The natives— Their poverty and simplicity— An Arcadia — The Midnight Sun— Christiania — An old boat— Parliament House— Cheap Dinners— Sweden— Stockholm— The Venice of the North— The Royal Palace — The National Museum —Old Parliaments— Luther's Bible— Gustavus Adolfus— European fruits— Kind and hospitable natives— Thanksgiving CONTENTS. XIV

Chapter XXII. Russia

Finland and Lapland— Abo— Helsingfors— Geographical particulars about Russia- Serfdom— Peter the Great— St. Petersberg— Its origin— Grand ambition— Church of St. Isaac— Religious Russia— The Winter Palace— Sratues of Peter the Great and Krylof, the novelist— The Hermitage— St. Peter and St. Paul Cathedrals— Peterhof Palace— Russian, lower and upper classes— Moscow— The City of Temples— Kremlin— Monster bells— The King of Bells— Its worship- Sparrow Hills— The Royal Theatre— Treasure House— Three Churches— Gulf between rich and poor— The illiterate police— The Russian Jews — Warsaw ... ••■ ••• ••■ ••• *71

Chapter XXIII. Poland

Rise and fall of Poland— The act of spoliation— Polish nobles— Descent of the Poles— Polish and Tartar customs— Warsaw — Solomon Hall — The Jewish colony — Their synagogue — Jewish disabilities — Warsaw, old and new — Cracow — Its former greatness — Dress of Polish women— Superstitions of Eastern Europe — The Salt Mines — Grand Reception Chamber — The Stream of Life ... .. 182

Hungary — Its natural resources — The Magyars — The Carpathian Mountains — An Arcadia — The Caves of Ice — Story of their discovery — First exploration by Eugeni Ruffiny — Wonders and beauties ofthe caves — A water-fall — The Bedouin Tent — A delicious dream — The missing purse — The work-people — Fondness for the bottle — Buda-Pesth— National Gallery and Museum — The Hungarian character — Population of Austro-Hungary — Military resources — Vienna — The Royal Palace — Natural History Museum — St. Stephens Church — Tbe Ring — Opera House — Tbe Capuchin Church — Schbnbrunn Palace — Prater Park — Scotch influence in Vienna— Vienna, old and new — A curious custom — Haydn, the musician — Bavaria and its Politics — Munich — The National Museum — The Old Church — Pictures— A gigantic library Beauties of Munich ... ... ... -ioo

Chapter XXV. Switzerland

Geographical features— Constitution of Switzerland— Its trade— A Garden of God— A paradise and a sanitarium— The Swiss character —Lake Constance— The town of Constance— The Rhine water-fall- Story of the woodeD bridge— Zurich— Mountain Railway— Bern— Lucern— A Heaven on Earth !— The Prisoner of Chillon— Geneva - William Tell 1Qft CONTENTS. XV CHAPTER^XXVI. ITALY. Geographical features — Trade and constitution — St. Gothard Tunnel — ■ Its history — Lugano — Italian Customs Officers — Courtesy to the stranger — Lake Como — Village of Como — The two Plinys — Milan — Its masters — Its trade and progress — Duomo Cathedral — Remains of a saint — Gallery of Victor Emanuel — Palazzo Marino — Rise and fall of its owner — Pavia — Cremation in Italy — Venice — Its origin — Extent of its commerce — The Republic of Venice — Feeding of pigeons — St. Marc's Church — Glass-making — The Doge's palaces — Arsenal — Boating in the Canals — Bologna — Florence — Its brief history — Churches — The National Museum — Palazzo Vecchio — The Picture Gallery — Rome, Queen of the world — Its history — St. Peter's Church — St. Peter's Square — Old Viaducts — The Capuchin Church — Public baths — Pantheon — The Vatican — The Lateran — The Capitol — Mamertine Prison — Ancient ruins — Livia, the beauty — The Coloseum — Tibur — Naples — Vicissitudes — The National Museum — Pompeii and Herculaneum — History of their destruction — Excavations, explorations and reflections — Signs of departed gaity and glory — Vesuvius, a terrible monster — Baia — Its ruins — Italians and their character... ... 207

Chapter XXVII. Spain

A few facts about Spain— Gibraltar— A perfect stronghold— Official rogues — General character of Spaniards — Granada — Past and present Warning to dark-skinned men — Survival of some Moorish customs The Alhambra Palace — Retaliation — A sad remnant — Renovation — Royal monsters — The Sultan Boabadil and his bloody banquet — The artistic jar — Hall of the Two Sisters — The Palace Baths The Chamber of Secrets — The Hall of Escutcheons— Saville — Its history— The Church of Saville— Al Kaiser Palace — Don Pedro, the (Jruel A curious form of chivalry — Cordova — Its world-famous mosque — Vandalism — The niche and the priceless desk — The mosque in the days of its glory— Old remains of Cordova— Madrid— The watch craze —Subterranean wealth of Spain— Museum and Picture Gallery — Bull fights— Spanish hatred of Mussalmans— War fever—" Morocco !" —Personal fears ... ... ... - CONTENTS. 253 264

Chapter XXVIII. France

Wonderful resources of the country — First visit — Marseilles — Palais Napoleon— Lyons— Paris— A few facts about it — Paris for the Parisian — The French character — Fascinations of Paris — Public gardens — French newspapers — French and Spanish hotels, a contrast — Royal Museum — The Tuillery Palace and Gardens — Place de la Concorde — An Egyptian obelisk — Ravages by the Communists — Palais de Bourbon — Magdelene Church — A Triumphal Arch — Hotel des Invalides — Napoleon's tomb — The Bastille — Palais de Justice — The Pantheon — Victor Hugo — The Palace of Industry — The Zoo and Botanical Gardens — Place Vandome — Arcaded streets — Beware of tramps ! — A cloth factory — Portraits in wool — Underground Paris — The Charnel House — Church of Notre Dame — A city of pleasures — Happiness and misery — The Communists — Versailles — St. Cloud — Crossing the Channel — Rough weather — London ... ...

Chapter XXIX. England

Greatness of England— Her constitution and national character Queen Victoria — London— Riches and poverty, a contrast — Vastness of the city— Checks put upon her growth— Its wonderful expansion—The smoke of London— Bridges— Trafalgar Square— The National Gallery — The London Monument — St. Paul's Cathedral Whispering Gallery— Mansion House— Bank of England— Victoria Embankment— St. James's Square — Royal palaces Hyde Park Albert Memorial— British Museum— Greenwich Hospital— Windsor Castle— Kew Gardens— Alexandra Palace— Theatres— Playing and singing— Madame Tussaud's Waxworks— London commerce— Docks- Crystal Palace— Its history and popularity— Sir Joseph Paxton— Tho London Tower— Royal Treasure— Westminster Abbey— Parliament House— The House of Lords— The House of Commons— Kindness of an Irish M. P.-The British Museum-A vast treasure-house of knowledge-The Library-Underground Tunnel— The English nation- Manchester— Liverpool-The Moslem Institute-Mr. Quiliam, a convert to Mahomedanism— Left for Bombay-Malta— The Suez Canal— The Red Sea, a hot furnace-A Somali Dhow-Beautiful Bombay CONTENTS. XVII

Chapter XXX. Turkish Dominion

Bombay— "My own, my native land!" — Kurrachee — Muscat — The Khojahs of Muscat — A barren and dismal country — Bunder Abbas — The Ubiquitous Hyderabadi — Linga — Signs of Portuguese power — The Behring Sea — Pearl fisheries — Bushire — Date trees — Turkish misrule — Wholesale corruption — A personal experience — Extreme heat — Old Bushire — Site of a battle-field — The seats of mighty empires — Their extinction — Excavations — Bawa Adam's trees — A devastating flood — A Jewish settlement — Jewish women — The Bedouin and their primitive huts — A palace of Noshirwan Adel — Bagdad — The rich citizen of Bagdad — His social life — Nineveh and Babylon* — Starting with a caravan — Abu Hanifa — The march — The plain of Arabella ... 282

Chapter XXXI. Nineveh

Dry canals — The Kurds —The fashion of tattooing — Mosel — Arabs and Christians — Nineveh — Its ruin and extinction — The ruins — Sir Henry Layard — The Palace of Senacherib — M. Botah — Difficulties encountered by him — His discoveries — Khorshabad and its ruins — Down the stream in a river boat — Turkish amenities — Nimrod — Sir Henry Layard — Native credulity and superstition — Discoveries — Hormazd Rassam — Arab hamlets — Ashur — Takreed — Running aground — Dura — Samrah — Tombs of Imaums — Harpies — The Medean Wall — Trees and mosquitoes — Mathias Martin — Moslem hospitality — Bedouins and Kurdists —Starting for Babylon ... ... ... ... 291

Chapter XXXII. Babylon

Sic transit gloria ! — Babylon — The Temple of Jupiter — The authority of Herodotus — Suspicious characters — Antiquarian researches— Mujjabile— A famous tree — Amran — Hospitality of my guide and his wife — Arab women — The water of the Euphrates and the Tigris — Hillah— Ruins of Bir Nimroud— Site of Abraham's tomb— The Hindya canal — Koofa — Abu Hanifa's birth-place — The shrine of Ali — Shiah pilgrims— Their mourning— The plain of Kerbella— The pilgrims — Rest-houses— True charity — Fall from a horse — The shrine of Imaum Hoosein—" In the name of Syed Abbas "—The martyrs— An affecting episode — Back to Bagdad .. CONTENTS.

Chapter XXXIII. Persia

The night march— Dolochi springs— The landscape— Shapur — The rustics — Cuneiform inscriptions — Spinning a yarn — A triumphal picture — Tehemur — Change of climate — Shiraz— Tomb of Hafiz — Caravans — Persepolis — Its ruins— Its extent — Parsagard — The city ■walls — Beautiful pillars — A suggestion to the Parsis — Bare skeletons — Rock pictures — Towers of Silence— Last resting place of Cyrus — Mussalman tradition about it — " Takhte Suleiman " — Dishonest policemen — Want of personal safety — Nakshe Rustam — Hauled up — Remains of a fire-temple — My guide — His elaborate trick — Shiraz — Its inhabitants —Its sanitary condition — A Shiah burial ground — Saadi's tomb — Some facts about the poet— Hafiz — His grave — Divination — A minor poet — To Bombay again ... ... ... ... ... 306

Chapter XXXIV. Hindustan

My native land — Ahmedabad — Architectural monuments — Indore — Ahilyabai — Chitoor fort — A cruel pastime — " Gow-mukh Kund " — Rana Kumbha — Mirabai, queen and poetess — Ajmere — Hosts and guides — A native fair — The sacred pot — Mayo College— Taraghad — Jeypore — Ambar — Lahore — Aurungzebe's mosque — Sacred relics — Tomb of Ranjitsingh— Shrine of Jehangeer — Peshawar — Amritsar — Agra — Akbar's mausoleum — The Taj Mehel — The Jumma Musjid — Offence to religious sentiment— Fatehpore Sikri — Its ruins — A bazar exclusively for women — Cawnpore — The Islam Brotherhood — Lucknow — The Imambara — An invidious distinction — Ayodhia — Ram and Seeta — Ram's birth-place — Fyzabad — Benares, a stronghold of Hinduism — Mahadev's Temple — The sacred well — Allahabad— Bombay — Back to Cape Town — Europeans and Indians in South Africa — The End S18 Hajee Sullaiman Shah Mahomed. •J OTJE IT JLL OF MY TOURS ROUND TBE WORLD.

Chapter I. In Search Op Fortune From Dhorajee To Cape Town

Early struggles — Rangoon — The Burmese — Their manners and customs — Aden — Zanzibar — Mozambique and its natives— Quilimane — Sofala — Delagoa Bay — Portuguese Misgovernment — A Zambezi " Beauty"— Natal, its trade and cli mate — Its political differences — Loyalty of the Indian settlers — Zulus and Zululand — The Dutch Republics — Treatment of the Indians — Cape Colony and its Capital — The Malay Musulmans — Cape of Good Hope — Kimberley — Tho Gold Mania. ;jpHIS book is intended as a simple record of my life and (gDwanderings. I have travelled over many parts of the world, more or less known, both for business and pleasure, making a note in my journal of everything that interested me. I had to leave home early in life in search of business, and had to visit many places. The men and things I saw interested me deeply, and so it was that gradually I became extremely fond cf travelling for its own sake.

I belong to the well-known Memon section of Ihe Mahomedan community. I was born on the 23rd June 1859, in the village of Dhorajee in Kattyawar. At the age of six, I was sent to the village mosque for education, and in the following year I was sent for further study to the Gujerati school in the place. I owe my up-bringing to my mother, my father having left on business for Mauritius when I was but eighteen months old. He had made some money as a cloth merchant, but had subsequently lost a great deal in government contracts and had finally gone to his brother in Mauritius in the hope of repairing his fortune. I was a very young boy when my father died He had left a shop and two houses, with some cash and ornaments, for my<-elf and my step-brother who was some years older than myself. Before I JOUENAL OF MY TOUES BOUND THE WOELD. arrived at the age of discretion, all the property was nearly lost by my brother in business.

Although my mother had to make a hard struggle against poverty, she managed to keep me at school until I was fifteen. I was then placed under a trader to learn accounts, and a year after I was sent to a merchant at Nassik to learn business. This man did not behave well with me. I married in 1875, when I was seventeen. For five years after my marriage I was engaged in business in India, but those were days of hard poverty and I found it extremely difficult to maintain myself and my family. It was during these early struggles that I suffered the calamity of losing my mother. I felt all alone in the world, and was buried in grief. On the 18th of November 1880, I left home for Rangoon, leaving behind my wife and an infant child of ours. Ran goon was seized by the English in 1824, and since the burning of the old town in 1850, a new one was built at the distance of a mile from it.