A Geographical, Statistical, and Historical Description of the District, or Zila, of Dinájpúr in the Province, or Goubah, of Bengal, etc

Preface

. In 1807, the Directors of the East India Company having recom mended that a full and accurate Statistical Survey of the territories under the immediate authority of the Presidency of Fort William should be executed, for the purpose of obtaining such information on the real state of the country as might be productive of future improvement and advantage, the Governor General Lord Minto resolved, that Dr. Francis Buchanan, whose abilities and experience were justly considered by the court to qualify him in a peculiar degree for such an investigation, should be appointed to this duty. The extent and variety of the objects to which his attention was to be directed, will be understood from the following extract from the instructions drawn up by the Seeretary to Government for his guidance : " Your inquiries are to extend throughout the whole of the terri tories subject to the immediate authority of the Presidency of Fort William. _.

" The Governor General in Council is of opinion, that these inquiries should commence in the district of Rungpdr, and that from thence you should proceed to the westward through each district on the north side of the Ganges, until you reach the western boundary of the Honorable Company's provinces. You will then proceed towards the south and east, untii you have examined all the districts on the south side of the great river, and afterwards proceed to Dacca, and the other districts towards the eastern frontier. " It is also desirable, that you should extend your inquiries to the adjacent countries, and to those petty states with which the British Government has no regular intercourse. In performing this duty, however, you are prohibited from quitting the Company's territories, and are directed to confine your inquiries to consulting such of the natives of those countries as you may meet with, or natives of the British territories who have visited the countries in question.

" Your inquiries should be particularly directed to the following subjects, which you are to examine with as much accuracy as local circumstances will admit. *' I. A Topographical account of each district, including the extent, soil, plains, mountains, rivers, harbours, towns, and subdivisions ■ to-

PREFACE.

. gether with an account of the air and weather, and whatever you may discover worthy of remark concerning the history and antiquities of the country. " II. The Condition of the Inhabitants . their number, the state of their food, clothing, and habitations ; the peculiar diseases to which they are liable ; together with the means that have been taken or may be proposed to remove them ; the education of youth ; and the provision or resources for the indigent. " III. Religion ; the number, progress, and most remarkable customs of each different sect or tribe of which the population consists ; to gether with the emoluments and power which their priests and chiefs enjoy ; and what circumstances exist or may probably arise that might attach them to Government, or render them disaffected. " IV. The Natural Productions of the Country, animal, vegetable, and mineral ; especially such as are made use of in diet, in medicine, in commerce, or in arts and manufactures.

The following objects deserve your particular attention : " lst. The fisheries, their extent, the manner in which they are con ducted, and the obstacles that appear to exist against their improve ment and extension. " 2nd. The forests, of which you will endeavour to ascertain the extent and situation, with respect to water-conveyance. You will investigate the kinds of trees which they contain, together with their comparative value, and you will point out such means, as occur to you, for increasing the number of the more valuable kinds, or for introducing new ones that may be still more useful. " 3rd. The mines and quarries are objects of particular concern. You will investigate their produce, the manner of working them, and the state of the people employed. " V. Agriculture, under which head your inquiries are to be directed to the following points : " lst.

The different kinds of vegetables cultivated, whether for food, forage, medicine, or intoxication, or as raw materials for the arts : the modes of cultivation adopted for each kind ; the seasons when they are sown and reaped ; the value of the produce of a given extent of land cultivated with each kind ; the profit arising to the cultivator from each, and the manner in which each is prepared and fitted for market. Should it appear that any new object of cultivation could be introduced with advantage, you will suggest the means by which its introduction may be encouraged.

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. V " 2nd. The implements of husbandry employed, with the defects and advantages of each, and suggestions for the introduction of new ones, that may be more effectual. " 3rd. The manure employed for the soil, especially the means used for irrigation. " 4th. The means used for excluding floods and inundations, with such remarks, as may occur to you, on the defects in their management, and the remedies that might be employed. " 5th. The different breeds of the cattle, poultry, and other domestic animals reared by the natives. The manner in which they are bred and kept ; the profits derived from rearing and maintaining them ; the kinds used in labour ; whether the produce of the country be sufficient, without importation, to answer the demand, or to enable the farmer to export ; and whether any kinds not now reared might be advantage ously introduced.

" 6th. Fences, the various kinds, that are used, or that might be introduced, with observations concerning the utility of this part of agriculture in the present state of the country. " 7th. The state of farms ; their usual size, the stock required, with the manner in which it is procured ; the expense of management ; the rent, whether paid in specie, or in kind ; the wages and condition of farming servants and labourers employed in husbandry ; tenures by which farms are held, with their comparative advantages, and the means which, in your opinion, may be employed to extend and im prove the cultivation of the country. " 8th. The state of the landed property, and of the tenures by which it is held, in so far as these seem to affect agriculture. " VI. The progress made by the natives in the fine arts, in the common arts, and the state of the manufactures ; you will describe their architecture, sculptures, and paintings, and inquire into the different processes and machinery used by their workmen, and procure an account of the various kinds and amount of goods manufactured in each dis trict.

It should also be an object of your attention to ascertain the ability of the country to produce the raw materials used in them ; and what proportion, if any, is necessary to be imported from other coun tries, and under what advantages, or disadvantages, such importation now is, or might be made ; you will also ascertain how the necessary capi tal is procured, the situation of the artists and manufactures, the mode of providing their goods, the usual rates of their labour ; any particular advantages they may enjoy, their comparative affluence with respect to the cultivators of the land, their domestic usages, the nature of their

PREFACE.

. VI sales, and the regulations respecting their markets. Should it appear to you that any new art or manufacture might be introduced with ad vantage into any district, you are to point out in what manner you think it may be accomplished. " VII. Commerce , the quantity of goods exported and imported in each district ; the manner of conducting sales, especially at fairs and markets ; the regulation of money, weights, and measures ; the nature of the conveyance of goods by land and water, and the means by which this may be facilitated, especially, by making or repairing roads. " In addition to the foregoing objects of inquiry, you will take every opportunity of forwarding to the Company's Botanical Garden at this presidency, whatever useful or rare and curious plants and seeds you may be enabled to acquire in the progress of your researches, with such observations as may be necessary for their culture."

In pursuance with these instructions, Dr. Buchanan was occupied, during the years 1807, 8, 9, 10, and 11 in a minute survey of the districts of Dinajpur, Rangpur, Piiraniya, Bhagelpur, Behar, and the city of Patna, Shahabad, and Gorakhpur. Upon each of these districts he sub mitted a voluminous report, accompanied with statistical tables, maps, and drawings, and where an opportunity was afforded him of collecting it, with collateral information illustrative of the people, or of the geo graphy and natural history, ofthe neighbouring countries; thus the report on Piiraniya embraces an account of Nipal, and of the Sikkim country ; the report on Bhagulpur contains vocabularies of the languages spoken by the hill tribes of that district, compared with the Hindi ; and that of Behar exhibits a similar vocabulary of the Dhangar and Bengali dialects.

The original records, occupying twenty-five folio volumes in manuscript, were transmitted by the Indian Government to the Honorable Court of Directors; a copy of the whole having been previously made, and deposited in the office of the Chief Secretary at Calcutta. Dupli cates of the drawings and maps, however, were unfortunately not pre served with the rest, probably from the difficulty at that time of getting them executed in India. It is matter of surprise and regret, that these valuable documents were not given to the public when stamped with the interest of origi nality and immediate applicability to the actual circumstances of the districts, and when they would have proved of great utility to the pub lic officers of Government. Although, however, no immediate steps were taken for their publication in an entire form, we learn from the preface to Hamilton's Hindustan, that the Honorable Court allowed the author of

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. VII that useful compilation the freest access to the manuscripts of Doctor Buchanan, and it must be confessed that much of the information they contain has been condensed into the body of that work, throughout the pages of which continual references will be seen to the Buchanan manuscripts. The readers of the Journal of the Asiatic Society are aware of the manner in which the arrangement for their publication in the present form originated. Captain J. D. Herbert, Editor of the Gleanings in Science, being anxious to secure to his subscribers a privilege which should render the support of his journal less burdensome to the few and scattered cultivators of scientific knowledge in India, negociated with the Government for permission to circulate the work free of postage on condition of devoting monthly a certain number of pages (stipulated at not less than eight) to the publication " of valuable official documents, having reference to public utility."

The privilege was accorded by the Government ; and the first volume of the reports, being the statistic account of Dinajpur, was placed in his hands, by Mr. G. Swinton, Chief Secretary to Government, who had been warmly interested in the promotion ofthe scheme. The Editor of the Gleanings, in fulfilling the conditions of his agreement, wisely determined to print the documents in a separate form, rather than incorporate detached portions of them as separate articles in the body of his journal. " On a full consideration ofthe subject," he says, in his notice to Subscribers, dated April, 1832, " we deemed the latter course the preferable one ; particularly, considering the very full information contained in these journals, and that it related to the least known districts, as well as the great pains taken in the arrangement of all the particulars.

It was thought that to break down and throw into detached pieces a work which the author had taken so much trouble to systematize, would be to lose one of the principal features of excellence which distinguish these records." It has necessarily occupied many months to complete the present volume, under such circumstances ; but the delay will not have caused much inconvenience, if the subscribers to the Gleanings and the Jour nal have attended to the injunction, frequently repeated, that the scattered sheets should be reserved with care to be put together in the form of a separate volume. It will be remarked, that many plates are referred to in the text : the drawings alluded to, as has already been stated, are in possession of the Honorable Court of Directors. It was thought better to preserve the references as they stood in the manuscript, in case the Honorable Court

PREFACE.

. should hereafter be induced to publish them, either in a separate form, or of a size adapted to the present volume. The interest which the work may command among the Subscribers to the Journal, and with the public at large, will determine how far it may be advisable to continue the publication of the remainder of the series, or whether they may for the present give way to other " official documents," of a more exclusively scientific nature. 2 JY61 ARRANGEMENT OF THE VOLUME. Page. Booh I. Topography and Antiquities of Dinajpur. Chapter I. Extent, General Appearance, and Soil. Section 1, Extent and Boundaries, 1 2, Soil, 2 — — 3, Elevation and Appearance, '. 3 Chapter II. Rivers. Section 1, Nomenclature, 7 2, Of the Mohanonda and its dependent Rivers, .... ib. 3, Of the Tanggon, and its branches, 8 4, Of the Punabhoba, and its branches, 10 5, Of the Atreyi, and its branches, 11 6, Of tbe Jomuna, and its branches, 13 7, Of the Korotoya, and its branches, 14 8, General remarks, 15 Chapter III.

Lakes and Marshes, 16 IV. Of Air and Weather, ib. ——rrr- V. Divisions, History, and Antiquities. Part 1, Hindu Government, 18 2, Mohamedan Government, 22 Section 2, Account of the Subdivisions of the District, 25 Part 3, Town of Dinajpur, 26 4, Division of Rajarampur, 28 5, Division of Birgunj, 29 ■ 6, Division of Thakurgram 30 7, Division of Rauisongkol, 31 8, Division of Pirgunj, 33 — — 9, Division of Hemtabad, 34 10, Division of Kaliyagunj, 36 11, Division of Bongsihari, 37 12, Division of Jogodal, 39 13, Division of Maldeh, 40 14, Division of Purusa, 49 15, Division of Gongarampiir, 50 16, Division of Potiram, 53 17, Division of Potnitola, 54 18, Division of Badolgachhi, 55 19, Division of Lalbazar, 56 20, Division of Chintamon 58 21, Division of Howra, 59 — — 22, Division of Nawabgunj, 61 23, Division of Ghoraghat, 62 24, Division of Khyetlal, X ARRANGEMENT OF THE VOLUME.

Page. Booh II. Concerning the people of the Dinajpur district. Chapter I. On the Population of the District, and the causes which operate on its Increase or Diminution, 67 II. Condition and Manner of Living, 73 HI. Education, 80 Section 1, Schools and Languages, ib. 2, Sciences, 35 Part 1, The higher Sciences, Literature, Law, and Metaphysics, «•• 2, The lower Sciences, Theology, Worship, Astrology, and Magic, 88 Chapter IV. Religion and Sects, 91 Section 1, Mahomedans, ib. 2, Hindus, 94 Part 1, Brahmans and other castes, ib. 2, Customs of the Hindus, 103 Section 3, Various small Sects, " 113 Appendix to Book 2, 115 Book III. Natural Productions. Chapter I. Animals, 133 II. Plants, 147 HI. Minerals, 171 Book IV. Agriculture. Chapter I. Different Plants cultivated, 173 Part 1, Introduction, ib. 2, Culmiferous Plants, 174 3, Leguminous Plants, 183 4, Of Plants which produce Oil, 184 5, Profit on this kind of Cultivation, 185 Section 2, Plants cultivated as Vegetables for the Table, 186 3, Plants cultivated for producing Thread or Cordage, 198 4, Plants cultivated on account of their Saccharine Juice, 202 5, Plants cultivated for being chewed or smoked, .... 205 6, Plants cultivated for Dyeing, 208 7, Plants used for feeding Silk Worms, 210 Chapter II.

Of the Implements of Agriculture, 2 15 III. On Manures, 218 IV. Of Floods and Banks, 220 V. Of Domestic Animals, 221 VI. Of Fences, 231 VII. Of Farms ; 234 VIII. Of Estates, 246 Book V. Arts, Manufactures, and Commerce. Chapter I. Fine Arts 263 II. Of the Common Arts, 268 Section 1, Personal Artists, ARRANGEMENT OP THE VOLUME. 33 Page. Section 2, Artists employed in working durable materials, Wood, Earth, or Metal 279 3, Manufacture of Cloths, 288 4, Manufacture of Sugar, 301 5, Manufacture of Indigo, 307 Chapter III. Commerce. Section 1, Exports and Imports, 314 2, Of the persons by whom Trade or Commerce is conducted, 317 3, Of the places where Trade is carried on, 322 . 4, Of Weights, Measures, and Coins 323 5, Conveyance of Goods, 326 Statistical Tables. 1. General Table of the District of Dinajpur, 331 2.

Abstract of an Estimate of the Annual Expences of six Families of different ranks, 332 3. Population of Dinajpur, 332 4. Estimate of the Cultivation and Produce, 333 5. of the various Crops of Grain, 333 6. Explanatory of Grain Cultivation, 334 7. Average Produce of varieties of Rice, 336 8. Divisions of Land 337 9. Exports and Imports of the Dinajpsir District, ACCOUNT OP THE DISTRICT OR ZILA OF DINAJPUR.

Chapter I

extent, general appearance, and soil. § 1. — Extent and Boundaries. The district or zila of Dinajpur, which forms the extent of the jurisdiction of a Judge and Magistrate, and of a Collector, is situated in the northern part of Bengal. Its greatest length from its southern extremity, at the junction ofthe Punabhoba1 with the Mohanonda, to its northern extremity, on the Nagor, is 105 B. miles. Its greatest breadth, near its southern, and between the Korotoya and Nagor, is 82 B. miles. It is somewhat of a triangular form, with its most acute angle to the north ; its longest side to the N. E. and its shortest to the south. It extends from 249 48' to 26° 18' N. Lat., and its southern extremity is exactly in the meridian of Calcutta. The western boundary of this district is very well defined. It is separated from that of the Puroniya by the rivers Nagor and Mohanonda, to the junction of the latter with the Punabhoba.

Its boundary on the south, with Rajshahi, is not only destitute of any natural marks, which indeed were not easily procurable ; but winds about and intersects these districts in a manner that is very inconvenient, both in the administration of justice, and in the support of the police. This I suppose originally arose from an inclination to accommodate the different proprietors of estates, to whom it is inconvenient and expensive to possess lands in two different jurisdictions, as they must employ an agent at each : but as estates are frequently changing their boundaries, and as in the case in question, the estates have been entirely altered, it would perhaps occasion, on the whole, less inconvenience, were the boundary to be rendered somewhat straight, and were detached portions added to the district by which they are surrounded.

On the east this district is separated from Rangpur by a river, which owing to frequent changes, that will hereafter be explained, has different names in different 1 These statements are given onthe supposition that Major Rennell's Maps are exact. The subdivisions on these maps are not adapted to the present state of the country, but to the zemindaries or estates that existed when they were constructed, and which »re now entirely altered. Soil, &c. parts of its course, but which is usually called the Koratoya. Towards the north the boundary of these two districts is less clearly defined, but is not liable to any particular objection, as it is tolerably straight, and as there are no portions detached. Dinajpur, as represented in Major Rennell's maps, consisted entirely of a large estate which belonged to a family that resided at the town of this name, and con tained between three and four thousand square miles.

The zila or present district, however, is much more extensive, and by tracing its boundaries, as nearly as I can, on Major Rennell's map, and estimating the extent, I find that it contains 5,374 square B. miles. Such a manner of estimating the extent of the country, I am aware, is liable to several objections : — it is merely an approximation to the real situation and extent, founded on the best documents within my reach. § 2.— Soil. The soil, when dry, is in general of a very light ash colour, often almost white, but becomes dark when moist. In a few places, however, chiefly near the Koro toya, the soil is a very red and stiff clay. Such soil, wherever found, seems to be called Ranggamaii, and many places derive their name from this circumstance ; for in Bengal this kind of soil is rather unusual.

The common ash-coloured soil, which occupies more than 99 per cent, ofthe whole district, is of two kinds. The one, in dry weather, becomes exceedingly hard and impenetrable, and re tains very little moisture, so that in the heats of spring it is entirely destitute of vegetation. In wet weather again, it changes into a soft sticky mud. This is called Khyar and Matiyal. The first expresses its parched state during the dry season. The latter is said to be a provincial corruption for Athia, which implies its sticky quality during the rainy season. Another derivation is given of the first appellation ; it is said to signify saline or alkaline, and much land in Bengal is, no doubt, of that nature : but this is by no means the case in Dinajpur. The other ash-coloured soil contains a much larger proportion of sand, on which account, it is said to be mixed {Doangsh).

This is much more retentive of mois ture than the purer clay, and in the dry season produces more vegetation. Its tenacity also being diminished by the mixture of sand ; even the wretched imple ments and cattle of the natives are able to penetrate it in the dry season, so that it produces a crop with the early rains of spring, while the hard clay is still impenetrable to the plough. The greater part of the stiff land produces, therefore, only one crop of rice which is sown in the middle of the rainy season ; but with the occasional rains, that hap pen in winter and the early part of spring, some portion, often a considerable one is ploughed, and then produces two crops of rice. A great proportion of the mixed land produces either two crops of that grain or a great variety of valuable articles, that grow in the dry season.

On this account it is frequently called Poli or the nourishing soil. .Much confusion, however, prevails in tbe application of the terms Khyar and Poli Mr. Hatch, when he made the settlement of the estate of the Dinajpur family, as sumed this distinction, as the foundation of his estimate. He considered as Khyar all such land as produced only one crop, and as Poll all such as was capable of pro ducing two crops in tlie year. As, however, some ofthe former is really more valuable than much of the latter, many exceptions were made, and much land really of a stiff soil is reckoned Poli, while much of a mixed soil is only considered as Khyar. Among this last may especially be mentioned the sandy banks of many rivers, which do not contain clay enough to enable them to produce many ricli crops, but which are very capable of producing certain articles with the early rains of spring.

The soil is usually called Chora by the natives, as being situated on the bank of a river, or Baliya as consisting mostly of sand. The extent of this cannot exceed | percent, of the land in this district, while the red earth may occupy J per cent, the real Doangsh 46, and the Khyar 53. § 3. — Elevation and Appearance. Although there is nothing in the whole district, that approaches to the elevation of a mountain, yet the face of the country is by no means so level as that of Bengal. In general many parts are more entitled to the appellation of hill than the eleva tion in His Majesty's green park. In fact some parts rise to a considerable height, especially a long ridge extending north from the town of Dinajpur almost to Kan tonogor, and a considerable elevation N. E. from Nalogola, on the banks of the Brohmani river, which at least rise 100 feet perpendicular height above the level of the inundated country.

Although these can scarcely deserve a place in a map, yet as the various degrees of elevation occasion a most essential difference in the produce of the country, they deserve the most minute attention in this inquiry. In the first place, near several ofthe rivers, especially the Nagor, Mohanonda, Tenggon, and lower part of the Punabhoba, a great deal of land is so low, that every rainy season it is inundated to a great depth, and owing to this circumstance is considered by the natives as almost unfit for cultivation. Many people have imagined, that in level alluvial countries, which are liable to inundation, tbe hanks of the rivers, owing to a more copious deposition of sediment, are higher than the more remote parts. In many cases this may be true, but in this district the parts near rivers are generally not higher than those more remote, and in many places they are much lower.

I should imagine that about seven per cent, of the whole land in this district may be overflown in the rains, and considered, on that account, as nearly incapable of cultivation. The inundated land of a stiffer soil is not all a perfect flat : its surface, in many places, rises into considerable swells ; so that, while some portions are covered with 20 feet of water, others are covered with very little, and some project like islands. This is peculiarly the case near the Mohanonda and Nagor rivers, where the most extensive inundations take place, and where a considerable part of this inundated land is cultivated. The higher spots afford situations for villages, but it has often been necessary to assist nature by digging tanks, and to raise the foundations of the houses with the earth thrown out by this operation.

It is much to be lamented that the cultivation of these lands could not be farther extended ; for the soil, although in some places covered by the beds of sand, is in general remarkably rich ; while in its present state the value of its produce is very small, being chiefly a wretched pasture, and long reeds, which are applied to several uses, as will here after be described. The advantage, however, arising from either the pasture or the reeds, is much more than counterbalanced by the destruction which is occasioned by the wild animals that such waste land harbours, especially deer, buffaloes, and hogs. In this portion must he included the Chora land, or sandy banks of rivers, which does not readily produce rank vegetation, and therefore is better cultivated than the richer lands, in which reeds vegetate with an astonishing vigour.

The Chora land can produce a plentiful but precarious crop of indigo, and a great many cucurbitaceous plants, and sometimes wheat and barley. It is seldom, however, regularly rented, and can only be included among the land, that is sometimes in fallow, sometimes cultivated, (Uthit Potit.) No trees grow on this inundated land, and its appearance is as dismal as its pro duce is of small value. A considerable portion might be embanked to advantage, by the proprietors : and wherever the soil is good, I have no doubt that it might be cultivated as the lands of Nator are ; or it might be cultivated for wheat, barley, mustard seed, and various kinds of pulse ; for the inundation dries up in most places before the season for sowing these begins. At present, nothing is cultivated in it but some poor kinds of rice, that will hereafter be described.

Farther, the long reeds might be destroyed, and nothing allowed to grow except short grass, which would feed a great many more cattle than this ground does at present, and would give no harbour to destructive animals : but tbe right of common pasturage is a complete bar to such an improvement. As this kind of land, however, is a common nuisance, by spreading disease, and harbouring wild beasts, the proprietors might, perhaps with justice, be compelled either to clear it, or to part with it to such as would undertake the cultivation, for in its present state it yields no profit to the owner. At present the only step taken to diminish the evil, is to burn the dried reeds during the heats of spring : this is not done with sufficient care, neither is it by any means effectual. The Doangsh or mixed soil, which occupies about 46 per cent, of the whole ground in this district, that is exempt from inundation, differs very much in its manner of cultivation, according to its various degrees of elevation.

I exclude from this the low sandy banks of rivers, called Chora by the natives, although these are a mixture of sand and clay ; but they are in general inundated. The proper Doangsh land is capable of producing almost every thing that agrees with the climate, and the vegetation on it is remarkably luxuriant. This, in fact, in the present circumstances ofthe country, is a nuisance. The great variety of lofty flower and fruit-bearing trees, and the luxuriant bambus by which the cottages are shaded, would render their situation delightful, did not rank weeds and bushes shoot up with unceasing vigour in every corner that is not in constant cultivation ; prevent all circulation of air ; preserve a constant damp noisome vapour, and harbour a great variety of loathsome and pernicious animals. The poverty, shyness, and indolence of the natives, (especially the two former,) prevent them from removing those nuisances.