Travels, between the years 1765 and 1773 ... into Abyssinia ... comprehending an interesting narrative of the author's adventures in Abyssinia ... being the substance of the original work

Front matter

AbUsheA'bu J.i: J. Cwui*-. iTbicn. ftesj TRAVELS, Between the Years 1765 and 1773, THROUGH PART OF AFRICA, SYRIA, EGYPT, AND ARABIA, INTO ABYSSINIA, TO DISCOVER THE SOURCE OF THE NILE : Comprehending AN INTERESTING NARRATIVE OE THE AUTHOR'S ADVENTURES IN ABYSSINIA, AND A CIRCUMSTANTIAL ACCOUNT OF THE MANNERS, CUSTOMS, GOVERNMENT, RELIGION, HISTORY, kc. kt, OF THAT COUNTRY. BEING THE SUBSTANCE OF THE ORIGINAL WORK. BY THE LATE JAMES BRUCE, ESQ. ti ♦ ALBION PRESS: PUBLISHED BY J. AND J. CUNDEE, IVY-LANE, PATlnKOSTEB-ROW, LONDON. /LMONG all the expeditions undertaken by modern adventurers, either for the extension of knowledge, the promotion of commerce, or the gratification of private curiosity, none ever excited more general interest than that of Mr. Bruce. Urged by an irresistible impulse, by a laudable ambition to accomplish a design which had for ages baffled the efforts of mankind, he pursued with unshaken perseverance the end which he had proposed ; and his success was equal to his most sanguine expectations.

Though the discovery of the source of the far-famed Nile had ever been a favorite object with men distinguished for science, talents, and enterprize, yet the fountains, which give birth to its fertilizing current, were destined to remain enveloped in profound obscurity, till the daring genius of Bruce explored, and laid them open to the rest of the world. In the prosecution of this darling scheme, which occupied a period of several years, he had to struggle with a variety of difficulties and dangers ; he was involved in many extraordinary adventures, and enjoyed an opportunity of witnessing the

Preface

. IV the most singular, and before unheard-of manners, habits, and customs : these subjects, blended with the useful information which his work conveys, alternately excite sympathy and horror, astonishment, indigna tion and delight ; and diffuse throughout his narrative a charm which must ever secure it deserved popularity. At the present moment the details furnished by Mr. Bruce respecting the various nations comjjosing the vast empire of Abyssinia, cannot fail to acquire new value and interest from the recent visit of Lord Va lentia, and the subsequent mission of Mr. Salt, for the purpose of attempting to open a friendly commu nication with the government of that country ; circumstances which may perhaps eventually lead to a commercial intercourse with a large portion of the African continent, and create a new market for the accumulated produce of some of our manufactures.

It is the lot of few, who by their virtues or their talents attract the notice of their contemporaries, to escape the shafts of envy, ignorance, and malevolence. Of this truth, Mr. Bruce afforded an additional example. Enemies and detractors were not wanting, who labored by means of every possible insinuation to throw a veil of suspicion over the veracity of his accounts, and even succeeded in depreciating him and his work, for a time, in the public estimation. The concurring testimony of subsequent travellers proved, however, a complete vindication of Bruce's integrity, and effectually refuted the aspersions of ignorance and incredulity. For some time before the sudden decease of the au thor, he was engaged in preparing for the press a new

PREFACE.

. V new edition of his Travels, but its publication was delayed by various causes, till the year 1805, when it appeared in seven octavo volumes, with all the cor rections and improvements made by Mr. Bruce him self and considerable additions by the editor. From this improved edition' the abridgment here submitted to the public has been executed. Desirous of com bining embellishment with utility, the proprietors have selected a bold handsome type and annexed a series of graphic illustrations, designed and engraved ex pressly for their work. An authentic Memoir of Mr. Bruce's Life is prefixed, and with these recommenda tions they confidently claim for this faithful epitome the attention of all whose leisure or whose means are not suited to the purchase of the voluminous original. MEMOIRS ov THE LIFE OF JAMES BRUCE, ESQ. JL HE family of the Bruces of Kinnaird is of great antiquity, being descended from a younger son of the famous Robert Bruce, and having been in possession of that estate upwards ot three centuries, during which it has formed alliances with some of the most distinguished houses in the kingdom.

James Bruce, of whose extraordinary travels an epitome is given in this volume, was born at Kinnaird House, the family mansion, in the county of Stirling in Scotland, De cember 14, 1730. He was the younger of the two children of David Bruce, Esq. by his first wife, Marion, daughtei of James Graham, Esq. of Airth, dean of the faculty of advo cates, and judge of the high court of admiralty, in Scotland. This lady was prematurely consigned to the grave by a lin gering disease in 1733, so that it was not the fortune of her son to know the tenderness of a mother. His father soon, afterwards contracted a second marriage by which he had a numerous issue. When James had arrived at his eighth year, his father resolved to bestow on him au education suitable for the heir apparent to his fortune, and for this purpose sent him to London, entrusting him to the care of his brother-in-law, Counsellor Hamilton.

For about a year be resided in the house of that gentleman, and was afterwards placed in the school of a Mr. Graham, whence ia 1742 he was removed 5 to MEMOIRS OF JAMES BRUCE, ESQ. to the public seminary at Harrow. Here he remained four years, during which he acquired a knowledge of the ancient languages, and the acquaintance of several persons of abi lities and distinction, whose friendship he retained through life. Being left to the choice of a profession, he at first entertained thoughts of the church, but at length having decided on qualifying himself as an advocate for the Scottish bar, he returned to his native country, in 1747- In the same year Mr. Bruce entered his son at the University of Edinburgh. What proficieucy was made by the latter in the different branches of legal knowledge is not known; but there is reason to believe that he felt the task which he had undertaken neither agreeable nor instructive.

In 1748 his studies were interrupted by the delicate state of his health, which obliged him to remove into the country; and this with other circumstances determined him to renounce for ever the profession of the law. His ardent imagination was not long afterwards attracted by the flatter-.' ing prospects presented by India; but being considerably above the age at which persons are enrolled as writers in the service of the East India Company, his friends advised him to petition the Directors for the liberty of settling as a free trader under their patronage. In July, 1753, he repaired to London with a view to prosecute his design. Amongst other new acquaintance to whom he was intro duced in the metropolis was the family of Mrs. Allan, the widow of an eminent wine-merchant, for whose daughter Mr., Bruce conceived an attachment which induced him to abandon his hopes of Asiatic wealth.

His addresses were favorably received ; in February, .754, he obtained the hand of Miss Allan, and with it a share of the business belonging to the family into which he was admitted. His connu bial happiness Wyas of very short duration. In a few months after marriage, Mrs. Bruce manifested evident symptoms of a consumption, which in October of the same year carried her off at Paris, on her way to the south of France. This ESQ. IX This circumstance gave a new direction to the views and pursuits of Mr. Bruce. His attention to business relaxed ; and he applied himself to the study of languages with such assiduity as gave him a habit of acquiring the most difficult idioms and dialects, of which he afterwards availed himself in learning the languages of the east. He also improved himself in drawing, and endeavoured to obtain a correct taste in regard to paintings and works of art in general.

In these pursuits he was chiefly engaged till 1757, when he visited Portugal aud Spain, with the professed object of being present at the vintage of that season, but in reality to view the state of society, art, and science, in those countries. Landing at Corunna, in Galicia, he thence proceeded to Ferrol, Oporto, and Lisbon*. Having seen every thing remarkable in Portugal, Air. Bruce traversed Spain, visited Madrid, and entering France by way of Bayonne, proceeded * The journal which Mr. Bruce kept of this tour, which has never been made public, is filled with shrewd remarks and amusing observations, of which the following passage may serve as a specimen : " There are many particular customs in Portugal, all of which may be known by this rule, that whatever is done in the rest of the world in one way, is done in Portusal by the contrary, even to the rocking of the cradle, which, I believe, ,n all the rest of the world is from tide to side, but in Portugal from head to. font.

I fancy it is owing to this early contrariety that their brains work in so different.a manner all their lives after. A Portuguese boatman always rows standing, not with his face but his back lo the stern of the boat, and pushes his oar from him. When he lands you, lie turns the stern of the boat to the shoie, and not the head. If a man and woman ride on the same mule, the woman sits before the man, with tier face the contrary way to what they do in England. When you take leave of any person to whom you have been paying a visit, the master of the house always goes out of the room, down stairs, and out of the house before you, to leave you as he says in possession of his house, and to shew you how much he and all that are in it are devoted to you. They are indeed very atten tive to the smallest punctilio, knowing well One another', temper.

The smallest affront is never forgiven. This is the occasion of the many murders which are continually committed here. Il is indeed the only country where it can be said that murder is tolerated. Every family has a ton, a brother, or a nephew, who is a priest or friar. These are the instruments. As soon as the friar has com mitted the crime, he 8ies to his convent ; and in six months the thing is no more talked of." 1. » to ESOt. X to Bourdeaux. Leaving that city he continued his journey through . Perigord, the Limosin, and part of Alsace ; and on quitting the French territory at Strasburg he followed the course of the Rhine, visited Frankfort, Bonn, and Co logne, and then turned off to Brussels. Here a circumstance occurred which had nearly been attended with dis agreeable consequences. On the second day after his ar rival he was involved in a quarrel with a person who had behaved rudely in his presence to a young gentleman, a stranger to Mr. Bruce, but whose appearance had inclined him to interfere in his defence.

The aggressor sent him a challenge, which he accepted. They met, and our traveller twice wounded his antagonist, and as h. at first apprehended, mortally. As the event was doubtful, and could not be ascertained on the spot, he thought it prudent to quit Brussels with all possible expedition, and repaired to Rotterdam, where he intended to embark for England: but receiving intelligence from his friends in Brabant that his alarm was unfounded and that his antagonist was recovering, he re turned to the Netherlands. He thence proceeded with several of his friends to view the theatre of war in the north of Germany, where he arrived just in time to witness the victory gained by Prince Ferdinand of Brunswick over the French, at Crevelt. Returning to Rotterdam he there received intelligence of the decease of his father ai Edin burgh, in May 1758, on which he immediately sailed for England.

Though Mr. Bruce by this event succeeded to the paternal estate, he still retained his share in the wine business ; nor was it till three years afterwards that the partnership was dissolved. Meanwhile he diligently prosecuted his studies. With the aid of works collected in Holland he acquired a knowledge of the Arabic, and the same restless curiosity directed his attention to the Ethiopic or Geez, a circumstance which perhaps influenced his determination to explore the sources of the Nile. In ESCt. XI In 176 1 he withdrew from the wine business, which he had carried on for seven years in company with his brother in-law, Mr. Allan. The events of the subsequent years of his life, his acceptance of the British consulship at Algiers, his travels in Africa and Asia, his accomplishment of that enterprize which he had made the object of his ambition, his residence in Abyssinia and return to Europe, form the subject of the following sheets.

Landing at Marseilles on his return from the east, he first spent some time in France, whither his fame had preceded him, and where his reception was highly flattering. His health having suffered much by the fatigues which he had undergone in his travels, he next determined to visit Italy, and repaired thither in July 1772. After a residence of some length at Bologna and Rome, he returned in spring, 1774, to Paris, and in June continued his journey to Eng land, which he reached after an absence of twelve years. Soon after his arrival he was introduced at court, and gra ciously received by his Majesty, who was pleased to honor Mr. Bruce's labors in the cause of discovery with his appro bation, and to accept the drawings of Baalbec, Palmyra, and the African cities. It was now expected that he would lose no time in giving to the world a narrative of his travels, in which the public curiosity could not but be deeply interested ; but various circumstances conspired to delay the publication.

This de lay afforded an opportunity to persons envious of his fame, ignorant of his merits, or offended at the little deference which he paid to their learning, to depreciate his character, and to propagate reports injurious to his reputation. Ihe circumstances and adventures with which he amused his friends were by many deemed incredible because they were extraordinary; whilst his enemies, not content with question ing his veracity in particular instances, asserted that he had never been in Abyssinia ; and this palpable falsehood was afterward believed on the authority of Mr. Wortley Mon. tagu and Baron deTott, » 2 During MEMOIRS OF JAMES BRUCE, ESQ. During his long absence from his native country, his friends having received no account of him, naturally gave him up for dead : but as his decease could not be proved, his property became abandoned, as it were, without an owner, to those whose original title extended no farther than temporary possession.

This state of affairs involved him in a number of law-suits, which necessarily occupied much of his time, and with other avocations totally pre vented for a long time his application to literature. Resolving to settle on his paternal estate, he rebuilt his house, to which he added a noble museum, where he de posited the valuable stores of oriental learning, his large collection of drawings and curious articles obtained during his far-extended peregrination. He also much improved his landed property, inclosing and cultivating the waste grounds. In 1776 Mr. Bruce married Mary, daughter of Thomas Dundas, of Fingas, Esq. who died in 1785, after a lingering indisposition, during which she was attended with the most affectionate assiduity by her husband. By this lady Mr. Bruce had three children ; Robert, the eldest, died when an infant, and the other two are the present Mr. Bruce of Kinnaird, and the wife of John Jardine, Esq. Had it not been for this domestic calamity, it is doubtful whether Mr. Bruce would have ever seriously thought of giving to the public an account of his travels, as during a period of near twelve years he had made very little progress in transcribing or arranging his journals.

This task he now undertook partly in compliance with the urgent entreaties of his friends, and partly in order to soothe his afflictions ; and in 1 790 his long expected work made its appearance in five quarto volumes. Notwithstanding the doubts artfully circulated respecting the author's veracity on account of certain passages and assertions contained in this work its character, like fine gold submitted to the fire, has but acquired fresh lustre by each succeeding examination. Afters the publication of his travels, Mr. Bruce applied 5 at ESQ. XIII at intervals to study, and amused himself with comparing part of the Ethiopic translation of the Bible with the original languages. This collation he undertook at the request of persons not less eminent for their high rank in the church than for their learning and piety.

Conformably with the advice of his friends, he was preparing for the press a second edition of his travels in octavo, when death suddenly prevented the execution of that plan. On the 26ih of April 1794, having had company at his house, he was going down stairs, about eight o'clock in the evening to hand a ]ady to her carriage, when his foot slipped, and he fell head long from about the sixth or seventh step from the ground. He was taken up insensible, with no marks of contusion, one of his hands only being a little hurt. Such, however, was the injury which he had received, that though medical assistance was immediately procured, he survived but a few hours, and expired early the next morning. On the 1st of May his remains were deposited in the church-yard of Lar bert, in the tomb which he had there erected to the memory of his second wife and her child.

Over the vault is a beautiful monumental structure of iron, cast at the neighbouring foundery of Carron (in which concern Mr. Bruce had a share) and adorned with emblematical figures and Greek inscriptions: perhaps the most ingenious work of the kind that was ever executed. On the north side is the inscription for Mrs. Bruce, and on the south side the following epitaph; In this tomb are deposited the remains of James Bruce, Esq. of Kinnaird, who died on lhe27th of April, 1794, In the 64th year of his age. His life was spent in performing useful and splendid actions ; He explored many distant regions, He discovered the fountains of the Nile- He traversed the deserts of Nubia. He was an affectionate husband, An indulgent parent, An ardent lover of his country. By the unanimous voice of mankind, His name is enrolled with those, Who were conspicuous For genius, for valour, and for virtue* It MEMOIRS OF JAMES BRUCE, T_sa.

It would perhaps have been impossible to have found a person better qualified by nature and art for the difficult and hazardous enterprize which he undertook than Mr. Bruce. His stature was six feet four inches, his person well-propor tioned, and his strength correspondent to his size. He ex celled in all corporeal accomplishments, being a hardy, practised, and indefatigable swimmer, trained to fatigue and exercise of every kind ; and his long residence among the Arabs had given him a more than ordinary facility in manag ing the horse. In the use of fire-arms, and also in handling the spear and lance on horseback, his dexterity was uncom monly great. In qualifications of a different kind he equalled, if not surpassed, the generality of travellers. He possessed an excellent memory, and a vigorous and well cul tivated understanding.

He found but little difficulty in ac quiring languages, and understood French, Italian, Spanish, and Portuguese, the two first of which he spoke and wrote with facility. Besides Greek and Latin, which he read well but not critically, he knew the Hebrew, Chaldee, and Syriac ; and was perfect master of the Arabic, Ethiopic, and Amharic. During the greater part of his life he had applied to the study of astronomy and other branches of mathema tical science. His abilities in drawing were great, and his taste in this particular excellent. He had also gained suf ficient knowledge in physic and surgery to recommend him among the barbarous nations whom he visited. If his temper was irritable and passionate, his heart was warm, his affections were ardent, and his moral feelings ex tremely acute. His friendships therefore were sincere, and, in general, permanent; but from his constitutional temper sometimes interrupted by suspicion.

From the same reason his enmities were occasionally capricious, though in general well-founded. His love of ancestry, aud the pleasure which he took in relating his own exploits, scarcely deserve notice as imperfections, though they were certainly prominent features in his character. With this propensity, however, he joined a fixed regard for honour, justice, and integrity. "His ESU. XV His religious principles were founded on the basis of the Scriptures ; and while he detested fanaticism, his mind, accustomed to dangerous situations, from which Providence alone could deliver him, had contracted a slight and amiable tinge of superstition, sometimes an attendant on warm, unaffected piety, but never arising in understandings like his, from ordinary causes. Upon the whole, a survey of Mr. Bruce's character and merits cannot fail to lead to this conclusion that in personal accomplishments he was sur passed by few of his contemporaries ; that he was uncom monly distinguished for vigour of understanding and literary attainments; and that in active persevering intrepidity, he may be classed with the most eminent persons of any age and country.

Chapter I

Mr. Bruce submits to the British government the plan of an expedition against Ferrol — Is appointed consul at Algiers — Misunderstanding with the Dey of Algiers respecting passes — The Author applies himself to the study of medicine, surgery, and the modern Greek language — Voyage to Minorca and return along the African coast — Bona— Tabarca — Tunis — Dugga — Hydra— Welled S, U Boogannim, a tribe of Arabs who live on lions' flesh— Tipasa— Constantina— Medrashem — Remarkable tribe inhabiting the mountains of Jibbel Aurez— Tezzoute— Elegant remains of antiquity at Spaitla— Muchtar— Second visit to Spaftla— Remarkable spring at Feriana— Amphitheatre at Gemme— Caravan of pilgrims— Tripoli— Bengazi and distresses of its inhabitants— Shipwreck of Mr. Bruce and his narrow escape— He returns to Bengazi — Sails for Crete— Visits Rhodes, Cyprus, Sidon, Tripoli, and Aleppo— Journey to Palmyra and Baalbec.

DURING Mr. Bruce's journey through Spain and Portugal as mentioned in the account of his life, he had spent a few days at Ferrol in Galicia, a considerable harbour, where part of the Spanish navy used to be stationed. Accident brought him into the com pany of several persons in the service of Spain, from whom he procured much information respecting the town and dock-yards, and also a plan of the port and fortifications. A report was soon afterwards circulated that the court of Spain was about to commence hostilities against Britain, which was already engaged in a contest with France. Mr. Bruce on considering 1. c the Mr. Bruce plans an expedition against Ferrol. the means of defence which Ferrol possessed, was convinced that an attack upon it by a British squadron would be crowned with success ; and that in case of a war with Spain, that kingdom might be easily invaded from this point.

About the end of 1760, as circumstances seemed to threaten a rupture between the two countries, he communicated his plan to his friend Mr. Wood, then under-secretary of state, adding that in case of a war with Spain, if the king would entrust him with the command of the forlorn hope and a pair of colours, he would undertake with one boats' crew to plant them on the beach at Ferrol. As the British ministry had not arranged any plan of operations, the project of Mr. Bruce, though favora-. bly received, was not adopted, and he repaired to Scotland where his private affairs required his presence. It was not long, however, before he was sent for by Mr. Wood, who informed him that Mr. Pitt, at that time prime minister, designed to prepare an expedition against Ferrol, and wished to have some conversation with him on the subject.

He waited a considerable time for the promised conference, when he learned from Mr. Wood, that some person had offered to combine with his plan another, which, on farther information, he deemed dangerous and im practicable. It was proposed to invade France, and if possible to take Bourdeaux with the same army which should afterwards attack Ferrol, and then pro ceed to the relief of Portugal. Mr. Bruce", from his knowledge of the country round Bourdeaux, foresaw that an attempt upon that city would prove unsuc cessful ; and in a memorial to the minister he stated his sentiments on the subjecf with boldness and freedom. The subsequent retirement of Mr. Pitt from office did not put an end to Mr. Bruce's hopes of employment ; and he had several interviews with the Earl of Egremont and Mr. Grenville who formed part of the succeeding administration, to concert an expedition against Ferrol.

The execution of this plan He accepts tne post of Consul at Algiers. plan was to be entrusted to Lord Howe with the troops destined for the assistance of Portugal ; but no sooner was the ambassador of that country ap prized of the design to employ the troops in this at tempt, than he obtained an audience of the king-, and so forcibly represented the imminent danger of his ally, that ministers determined to relinquish the pro ject. Disappointed, afteralongand expensive attendance, in his offer of public service, Mr. Bruce resolved to return to his native country, and devote his whole at tention to his private affairs. Lord Halifax, secretary of state for the southern department, hearing of his intention, requested to see him before he left London. At their interview this nobleman laughed at Mr. Bruce's intention of retiringinto the country at his time of life, observing that the way to rise under the sovereign who had then recently ascended the throne, was by enterprize and discovery, and that his Ma jesty's love of the arts was a sure and effectual intro duction to patronage.

He remarked that Africa, though comparatively speaking at our own door, was yet unexplored ; that Dr. Shaw had mentioned magnificent remains of ancient architecture existing in the territories of Tunis and Algiers, and that it would be an undertaking worthy of his talents, to make drawings of these antiquities for the king's collection. As a farther inducement, his lordship stated that the post of British agent and consul-general at Algiers was just then vacant, and warmly advised Mr. Bruce to embrace this opportunity of visiting- Africa under the protection of a public character ; promising that he should have permission to appoint a vice-consul for the dispatch of business in his ab sence, and that if he made wide excursions and large additions to the king's collection he should receive the rewards stipulated in the affair of Ferrol, or be promoted in the diplomatic department.

To these proposals Mr. Bruce was induced to accede ; and in c 2 the The Author's arrival at Algiers. y - ■■ - ■ " ■ ■ ■ . ,, — r the course of subsequent conversations with Lord Halifax and Mr. Wood, mention was frequently made of the sources of the Nile, and the obscurity in which they had ever been, and were still likely to be, involved until some undaunted adventurer should have the perseverance to trace that river to its origin. It was obliquely hinted that the accomplishment of an enterprize of such importance could not be ex pected of an ordinary traveller, and still less of one who had no experience of the difficulties that must attend it : and at the same time it was intimated that if any Briton should fulfil this desirable object he might confidently look forward, under such a monarch and in a period so auspicious to discovery and learning, to a proportionate reward.

The appointment to the consulship, owing to temporary circumstances, was not obtained till some months afterwards, in March 1762. Mr. Bruce now lost no time in furnishing himself with the necessary apparatus of instruments, and at the end of June set out through France for Italy. Here, as it had been agreed, he waited for orders from ministers to repair to his post, and this interval he employed in examin ing the most celebrated works of art, ancient as well as modern, with which that classic region then abounded. At length, in February 1763, he em barked at Leghorn, in the Montreal man of war, which carried him in sat *et\ to the place of his destination. On his arrival at Algiers Mr. Bruce began dili gently to discharge the duties of his office. He was already acquainted with the written Arabic, and now applied to the study of that language as spoken in Barbary ; for, though the consul is always supplied with an interpreter, Mr. Bruce had resolved to make as little use as possible of his assistance.

This object he accomplished by assiduous and frequent conver sations wilh the natives in about a year's residence at Algiers. Finding that the enterprize which was the chief object of his coming to Africa would require Misunderstanding with the Dey respecting passes. quire a still greater variety of instruments than he possessed, and the co-operation of some assistants, he wrote to Italy, particularly for a small camera obscura, and for some young men acquainted with architecture and drawing ; but one only, Luigi Balugani, a native of Florence, could be prevailed upon to engage in his service. His skill in drawing was very imperfect, but with Mr. Bruce's instruction, he so far improved as to be of great use to him. When thus prepared, his journey into the interior of Africa was for some time retarded by a misunderstanding with the dey and government of Algiers respecting passports.