Three Months' Travels in Egypt and Palestine, etc

Preface

. Dean Bagot, in his treatise on the " Transfiguration of Christ," says, " There is a powerful instinct in the mind of man which leads him to feel peculiar interest in places which have been described, either in sacred or profane history, as the scenes of great and important events, or in which persons of a distinguished character have lived and acted. " With what ardent and absorbing emo tions have the classic grounds of Italy and Greece been trodden by the literary traveller ! What hallowed sensations of Preface. gratitude and devotional love has the Christian traveller experienced in survey ing those places which have been associated by an imperishable consecration with the important transactions of our Saviour's life ! Who could stand unmoved upon the Hill of Calvary, or traverse the City of God, or cross the Sea of Galilee, or visit the Saviour's birthplace, or ascend the mountain on which His Transfiguration took place, without having his heart over whelmed with feelings of intense and grateful love !

"We may well suppose that the Saviour Himself looks down with triumphant satis faction and joy upon the land in which He once tabernacled in the flesh for man ; and if Jesus thus regards the localities and Preface. IX events of His earthly humiliation, with what solemn and thankful reflections should we think upon them, for whose benefit every place was visited, every sigh was heard, every tear was shed, and every agony sustained, by the Son of God, in mortal flesh ! " It was with a feeling of pleasurable anti cipation, somewhat akin to the one here ex pressed, that, accompanied by my husband, I left home on a visit to the Holy Land. There are several ways of going there from England. Some like to go by Paris to Marseilles, and thence onwards ; others prefer through Italy to Brindisi ; and others again select the way of Germany to Venice.

Having had some experience of these routes of land travel, and after careful Preface. X consideration, we determined to make a voyage by sea — the result justified our choice. We left London by the Peninsular and Oriental Jubilee S.S. Britannia, for Gibral tar, Malta, Brindisi, and Alexandria. By this way, if the weather is at all fiue, you get south in the shortest time and with the least fatigue, avoiding laborious and continuous railway travelling. In these days of scepticism, a visit to the Holy Land might with great benefit lie undertaken — when possible — by every unbeliever in the veracity of the Bible. Nothing will be seen in Palestine to throw a doubt upon Scripture, whilst all around one sees the truth of its state ments, and the threatenings of God's word Preface. XI verified. And those who are believers in the Lord Jesus Christ will rejoice to visit places where He really dwelt, when He took upon Himself our human nature, and when " He bore our griefs and carried our sorrows ,r (Isa. liii. 4), and finally laid done His life for His foes, that through His triumphant death upon Calvary's Cross, and His perfect atonement, all who accept and believe in Him as their only Saviour, Lord, and Master, might have everlasting life in the glorious abode He has gone to prepare " for all who. are washed and forgiven."

May many who read the following pages merely out of curiosity, be led thereby to acknowledge Jesus Christ to be their all, and their only hope for a blissful eternity, Preface. XII and the author will for ever bless the Love of the One who so safely led her through so many dangers, and brought her back to her own land, according to His promise, before the journey was undertaken (Gen. xxviii. 15). M. A. B. contents.

Chapter I. Page

From England to Gibraltar, Malta, Brindisi, and Egypt — Alexandria — Cairo . . . . I

Chapter II

Cairo — Bazaars — Nile — Tombs of Apis Bulls — Memphis — Sak-kara — Pyramids of Gizeh — Sphinx — Camel-riding — Heliopolis — Citadel — Old Cairo — Mosqueof Mahomet Ali — Coptic Ladies — Dancing and Howling Dervishes — Ismailia — Tell-el-Kebir — Suez Canal — Port Said — Jaffa . . . .16

Chapter III

Jaffa — Ramleh — Jerusalem — Hebron — Abraham's Oak at Mamre — Solomon's Pools — Rachel's Tomb — Bethlehem — Church of the Nativity — Shepherds' Field — Convent — Chapel and Tomb of St. Contents. XIV TAOE Jerome — Russian Pilgrims — Valley of the Kedron — Wilderness of Judea — Convent of Mar Saba — Dead Sea — Jordan — Site of Ancient Gilgal and Modern Jericho — Site of Ancient Jericho — Elisha's Fountain — Valley of Achor — Brook Cherith — Samaritan Inn — Bethany — Tomb of Lazarus 39

Chapter IV

Mount of Olives — Jerusalem — Church of the Holy Sepulchre — Mosque el Aksa — Mosque of Omar — The Sacred Rock — Village of Siloam — Solomon's Stables — Area where Temple stood — Pool of Bethesda — Pilate's Judgment-Hall — Via Dolorosa — Jews' Wailing Place — Robinson's Arch — Pool of Siloam — Valley of Jehoshaphat — Hill of Evil Counsel — Tomb of David — Tombs of Absalom, Zechariah, and St. James — Tower of David — Hezekiah's Pool — Tombs of the Kings — Virgin Mary's Tomb — Garden of Gethsemane — Lepers — Solomon's Quarries — Hill of Calvary — Tomb of our Saviour — Valley of Hinnom — Valley of Gihon — Ride Round Jerusalem — Spot where Christ Wept over Jerusalem Contents. XV PAGE 107 124

Chapter V

Last Look at Jerusalem — Mount Scopus — Nob — Gibeah of Saul — Ramah of Benjamin — Bethel — Sinjil — Shiloh — Tombs of Phinehas and Eleazar — Jacob's Well — Mount Gerizim (the Mount of Blessing) — Joseph's Tomb — Ancient Shechem — Samaritan Synagogue — Samaria — Dothan — Engannim — Hills of Samaria — Mount Carmel — Hills of Galilee — Mountains of Gilboa — Plain of Esdraelon, or Valley of Jezreel

Chapter VI

Jezreel — Gideon's Fountain — Shunem — Little Hermon — Nain — Endor — Nazareth — English Church — Miss Dickson's Schools — Carpenter's Shop— Mary's Kitchen—" The Brow of the Hill " — Site of Synagogue — Fountain of the Virgin — Chapel of the Annunciation — Cana of Galilee — Mount of Beatitudes — Crusaders — Thunderstorm — Lake of Galilee — Tiberias — Sea of Galilee — Capernaum — Bethsaida — Chorazin — Gergaza — Baths of Hammath — Hyenas — Moonshine on Lake b Contents. XVI l'AGE 165

Chapter VII

Magdala — Highlands of Naphtali — Waters of Merom — Dan — Cæsarea- Philippi — Temple of the God Pan — Village — Syria — Mount Hermon — Castle of Banias — Beit Jenn (House of Paradise) — Pharpar — Kefr-Hauwar (Wind) — Saul's Conversion — Damascus . . . . . .144'

Chapter VIII

Damascus — Great Mosque — Tomb of Saladin — Bazaars — Street Straight — Private House — Houses of Judas and Ananias — Lepers' Hospital, &c 157

Chapter IX

Ride to Baalbek— Temple of the Sun— The Great Temple— The Temple of Venus— The Portal of the Temple — The Quarries — Reputed Tomb of Noah — Ride to Beyrout, via Stora and over Mount Lebanon — Beyrout — Some Experiences . Contents. XVII PAGE

Chapter X

Beyrout to Cyprus — Smyrna — Ephesus — Athens — Eleusis — Acropolis — Mars Hill — Dr. Saliemann's Museum and House — Academy of Science — Temple of Theseus — Temple of Jupiter Olympius — Arch of Hadrian — Prison of Socrates — Monument of Philopappos — Lantern of Diogenes — Gate of the Agora — Stoa of Attalos — Stoa of Hadrian — Tower of the Winds — Old Bazaar — Cathedral — Byzantine Church — Chapel of Hagra Trias — Street of the Tombs — English Church — Palace Gardens, &c 186

Chapter XI

Archipelago — Island of Patmos — Sea of Marmora — Bosphorus — Constantinople — Scutari — Stamboul — Bazaars — Dogs — Galata Tower — Sweet Waters of Europe — Fast of Ramadan — Pigeon Mosque— St. Sophia— The "Burnt Column"— Ceremony of the Selamlik — The Hippodrome — The Cistern of the Thousand and One Columns — Museum of Antiquities — The Tombs of Sultan Mahmoud and Sultan Asiz — Mosque of Sultan Suleiman &c. . Contents. XVIII

Chapter XII. Paok

"Orient Express" to Vienna, via Philippopolis, Sofia, Belgrade, and Buda-Pesth — Vienna and its Sights— Schbnbrunn — Munich — New and Old Pinakothek— The Glyptothek, &c. 218

Chapter XIII

Mainz — Rhine — Bonn — Godesberg — Seven Mountains — Brussels — Field of Waterloo — Old England— "Home"

Chapter I

From England to Gibraltar, Malta, Brindisi, and Egypt — Alexandria — Cairo. February 24.Æ, 1890. — This is the fourth day we have been at sea. I have been very poorly, and had to remain in my berth until this morning, when I got up about 1 1 o'clock. E. has been so well all the time, thank God ! able to enjoy his food, even during our rolling for a day and a half in the Bay of Biscay. I am glad we are out of it at last. We saw the coast of Portugal this after- A noon and two islands, also a large steamer passed us some distance off. I wish I could have braved going into dinner this evening with E. ; but it has not been possible. I feel, if I attempted it at present, I should be sick again, although I am sure the sea-breezes have done me good already. My dear husband says it has been " nothing but a pleasure trip to him, and he feels ever so much better since he set foot on the steamer."

This vessel (the P. and 0. Jubilee s.s. Britannia) rolls — the Arcadia did not ; but the rolling is very, very slight now we are out of the Bay. There are a large number of passengers on board. The sea air is delightful to me. I dreaded going down to our cabin again ; but I was thankful to find our steward had opened our porthole, and the atmosphere was much fresher than when I left it. The waves were thundering against it The Mediterranean. 3 last night, and it had to be screwed down very tight ; the first night a little water came in, as it was not tight enough. The sea is wonderfully calm whilst I am writing this, and I hope it may con tinue so. We expect to be in Gibraltar at 4 p.m. to-morrow. We had two church-services on board yesterday, one in the first saloon in the morning, and the other in the second saloon in the evening.

E. attended both. We have a band on board ; it was played this morning for the first time since we left London. We left the latter in a dense fog, and indeed the fog was so bad in the Channel, that we had to lie by the Isle of Wight part of the night. Our band played just before we left Tilbury Docks. A very large number of persons came on board to see friends off, which made a disagreeable crush for the time. The Lascars looked very picturescpie in their turbans and white trousers, &c. They stood in a row just before leaving, and many handkerchiefs wTaved us away from Old England's shore. February 25th. — Glorious day ! Got up after breakfast and enjoyed immensely the fresh sea-breezes. The coast of Spain was seen very distinctly about 11 a.m. The Captain says we shall have two hours on land at Gibraltar.

E. took tickets at the bar for us to go and return in one of the Company's boats. February 2$th, p.m. — We were able to go over to Gibraltar ; but as E. and I were there last winter for cmite a week, we only drove to the post-office, where I wrote to my mother, and E. wrote to his brother. After purchasing a few articles, we returned to the steamer. I was able to come down to dinner this evening. After sitting for some time in the music saloon I retired early. The Mediterranean. 5 February 26th. — Got up to my break fast this morning and went on deck. I made a little sketch of a vessel at sea. Towards the time for afternoon-tea, however, the sea became rough, and as the vessel was pitching a little, I retired to my berth. . February 2jth. — We have been rolling and pitching nearly all day ; but now we are going a little more steadily.

It has not been at all a bright day, though we have not had the continual smashing of crockery that we had in the Bay, and the temperature is decidedly warmer. We are now hearing Tunis, where we stayed for a week or more last winter. E. keeps very well, I am thankful to say. He has been out on deck some part of the day. February 28th. — I got up this morning, and was in time to have some hot beef tea on deck about 1 1 o'clock, which I much enjoyed. After this the bell rang as if for a fire, and each steward had to bring his store of biscuits ; these were piled together. Then the Captain had the whole ship's crew out, and one boat after another was lowered as quickly as possible. It was interesting to watch ; but God grant the Britannia may never need to have re course to boats on account of fire !

We arrived at Malta about 5 p.m., after passing an island just before coming to Valetta. We could not but admire the fortifications and harbours of Malta, and it was pleasant to see the red-coats once more, and feel we were again going to land on English soil ; if not by right, it is now so by might. At one time we had thought of staying for a week or more in the island ; but we changed our minds when we knew it was not a good place for any one with a weak action of the heart, and there is not so very much to be seen. The streets of Valetta are narrow and steep ; they gradually ascend from the Malta, 7 harbour to the shops at the Strada Reale. I should not like to walk much about them alone. After landing, my husband and I engaged a carriage to take us round to see the principal sights. A guide nimbly jumped upon the box ere we started, and pointed out the various places of interest as we drove by.

We went direct to St. John's Church ; but I wras disappointed at it, as we heard so much about it, and we have seen such grand ones elsewhere. We also went to the Governor's house or palace, and could only see the exterior, for it closes at 3 p.m. when the gun fires. We drove round to different points, and up to some gardens and promenades, from whence we got a very good idea of Malta and its splendid fortifications. Noticing much water about, our guide remarked it had rained for four days continuously, without stopping for five minutes ; so it was fortunate that we had it quite fine. We drove to the Market ; as it seemed dirty, and there were so many Maltese about, we did not linger long there. Towards 7 o'clock we went to the Grand Hotel for our dinner, and were just in time for a full table-d'hote.

After wandering about and going to King's reading room to write letters, we returned to the landing-place and took a boat to our steamer. We had a long row in a pale green boat, something like a gondola, and we almost fancied ourselves in Venice again. The calm water, beautiful moon shine, pretty lights, and our two boatmen standing up to row, gave a lovely effect. The coal-barges almost surrounded our vessel (which looked well, lit up with the electric light) ; but we soon got aboard, and I at once retired, as it was after 10 p.m. We were both pleased with our five Voyage to Italy. 9 hours' visit to Malta, and the purchases we have made. My husband stayed there some time ago. The dress of the ladies amused me — all in black, and such huge bonnets ; they look like nuns. March ist. — I was up a little after 7 a.m., as I began to feel our steamer moving.

I got a little peep at the harbour of Malta from our porthole, and then hastened to breakfast in the saloon, for the first time since I have been on board. Our band played again this morning, but the wind was cool ; still I enjoyed it after the heat of yesterday. The fresh sea breezes are most reviving to me. After lunch, rain came on ; so E. and I remained in the music-saloon, and one gentleman after another played very well indeed. We have some excellent musicians on board. They gave a concert the other evening in the second saloon ; but I fancy, from all I could hear from my berth, the rolling and pitching of the vessel brought it to a sudden termination, and many, if not all, followed my example and retired. March \th. — Much has happened since I last wrote up my diary, for we are now on the P. and 0. s.s. Hydaspes, steaming away to Alexandria.

On the 2nd March we arrived at Brindisi about noon, just shortly after we had finished church-service on board. There were crowds of people on the quay, and they had such an Italian look. E. and I landed, and walked round through the principal streets, and into two churches. We saw also a column and some ruins, and we went through the Archbishop's cathedral. The streets are dirty, and there are some very old remains about. The port is a good one, and the largest steamers now come alongside of the quays. This enables the passengers to see all that goes on, and the Italians do their best to Brindisi. 11 amuse them, and to induce them to pur chase their wares. They ask much more than is given to them, as a rule, and they seem quite content if they get anything. I think, as a nation, they are easily pleased ; but how they will pursue one for a little money !

On our way from Malta to Italy, about 7 o'clock p.m., a gale sprang up, and the waves dashed even as high as the music-saloon windows, which are on the upper deck. Indeed, the carpets at the top of the stairs got so wet, they had to be removed. I deemed it wise to retire early ; but just before E. got into his berth, he discovered it was quite wet, and the water was even then coming in. We rang for the steward, and found that it was because the waves had been washing the deck, and some of the water had come through the ventilators. This could not be pre vented. He stopped it, however, from coming down upon me, and found E. another cabin for the night. Fortunately there was a good one at liberty close by. My sleep was broken by the stormy night, and we were all glad to arrive at Brindisi, I am sure.

We left the latter about 2 a.m. The noise of starting awoke me, though I soon went to sleep again. We are pleased with this vessel. The hours for meals are : tea at 7 a.m., breakfast 9 a.m, beef-tea 11 a.m., lunch 1 p.m., afternoon-tea at 4 p.m., and dinner with coffee after at 6.30 p.m. Any one wishing to have tea after that could get it. Printed menus for all the meals, and I must say the food is excellent, and as well cooked as on board the Britannia. On the latter one could have tea at 7 a.m., breakfast from 8 to 10 a.m., beef-tea at 7 a.m., lunch from 12.30 to 2 p.m., after noon-tea 4 to 5 p.m. One dinner was at 6, and another at 7.30, with coffee after. Voyage to Egypt. 13 Every one had to put down their name for which dinner they preferred. We chose 6 o'clock, and no afternoon-tea. The bells ring on the Hydaspes just the same, and the ship's company are most attentive.

Indeed, we are well pleased with this steamer, and it has neither pitched nor rolled since we have been upon it. In consequence, I have never missed a meal, and I feel ever so much better. March $th, Wednesday. — All well, thank the Almighty ! and am really enjoying the sea-breezes. We have passed the islands of Zante and Crete, and we hope to arrive at Alexandria about 7 o'clock in the morn ing. We feel the atmosphere warmer, though we have just had a shower of rain. The sea is calmer to-day. Yesterday the waves splashed on deck in the morning. We are going on very quietly and very comfortably. March 6th. — We arrived safely at Alexandria about 7 in the morning, after having had a very calm night on the sea. We were met by the porters from the hotel Khedivial. We cleared the custom-house nicely, and were soon in a most comfortable apartment on the first floor.

After breakfast, we drove out to the " Poste Restante " for our letters ; and then to Miss Robinson's " Sailors' and Soldiers' Home," with which we were well pleased. Rev. and Mrs. Lawrence are now in charge ; but the former is in England, so we only saw Mrs. L. Then we drove to get an order to visit the Khedive's palace on the Ras-et-Tin, or Promontory of Figs, which we accomplished with some difficulty. The man, however, gave us at the same time a permet to see over the Khedive's yacht, and we saw both, one after the other, and were pleased. The rest of the day we spent in driving about Old Alexandria, amongst the curious A lexandria. 15 and interesting bazaars, and in visiting Pompey's Pillar. We also took a long drive by the Mahmudiyeh Canal to some gardens, and back again to our hotel.

Chapter II

Cairo — Bazaars — Nile— Tombs of Apis bulls — Memphis — Sakkara — Pyramids of Gizeh — Sphinx — Camel-riding — Heliopolis— Citadel — Old Cairo — Mosque of Mahomet Ali — Coptic ladies — Dancing and howling Dervishes — Ismailia — Tell-el-Kebir — Suez Canal — Port Said— Jaffa. March yth. — We left very comfortably for Cairo at 9.15 and arrived about 12.45. Got to Shepheard's Hotel in time for lunch, and also to find a charming room on first floor to the front had been reserved for us. The manager said he remembered E. being here before, and he knew his name and face directly. The rest of the day we spent in driving about and visiting the bazaars, which are truly Oriental Still Cairo has much that is distinctly European about it now. The Cairo. 17 ancient mosques, though the dress of the natives — so varied in colour — the donkeys and their riders, the street cries, &c, have all a novelty peculiar to the East.

One must not forget, too, the strings of camels laden with provender, the water-carrier, with his goat-skin full of water on his back, and the men who run before the carriages, richly dressed. But one does not often see the latter now, and unless there are a pair of horses and a grand carriage, there is generally only one out runner. The Muski is the chief thoroughfare of Cairo, and down this street we went to see the different bazaars. The next day we joined one of Cook's excursion parties to go to Memphis and Sakkara ; the pyramid of the latter is the oldest in Egypt ; it is called " The Step Pyramid," and it is a different shape to any of the others. We only saw rj Travels in Egypt and Palestine. it in passing on our donkey-ride to the tombs of the Apis bulls. But I will now attempt to describe my first voyage up the Nile.

On this occasion we did not go farther than Bedrashen. We had lovely weather, and I was able to make a sketch as I sat under the awning of the steamer, as we glided along. E. and I both wore our helmets, and it was providential E. had his on ; for he did not stoop low enough in coming out of the Apis tombs, and his helmet saved him from a nasty blow on the forehead. The view one gets from the Nile of the Citadel and the Mosque of Mahomet Ali is fine. I was never tired of looking at the very picturesque boats and the villages in Egypt. One wonders how the people can exist in the low mud huts, and how the children can keep the water-bottles so steady upon the top of their heads. One THE NILE. — Page 19. The Nile. 19 looks also with interest upon the stately tread of the camels, and compares the latter with the hurried trot and sharp gallop of the donkeys, who are invariably followed by boys, wearing long blue gowns, with light skull-caps, sometimes with turbans, and carrying long sticks.

On our way up the Nile, too, we passed the Tura Quarries (from whence the material was taken to construct the ancient temples), the Nileometer, and Helwan ; whilst each turn of the river seemed to have a peculi arity of its own. Upon our arrival at Bedrashen, we found a very large number of donkeys and their attendants awaiting our arrival. We were pulled hither and thither, and mounted our donkeys with some difficulty. As a ride of five miles each way — there and back — had to be undertaken, we were all naturally wishful to choose a good animal. As to saddles, Cook's parties are supplied with English ones, or we should have come very badly off (I mean the ladies of our company), for Eastern females ride -like men, and so a side-saddle is rarely met with in Egypt — at least that was my experience.

What a scamper we had past the mud huts, palm-trees, and across the embankment route to the site and ruins of ancient Memphis ! Here we found the enormous statue of Ramses II. It was forty-two feet in height before it was injured. After we had looked at it for some time, and been thereby reminded of fallen greatness, we remounted our donkeys, and rode on past the old step pyramid of Sakkara to the Tombs of the Bulls. By the aid of lights, which we carried, we could see the inscriptions upon the sarcophagi, and we were quite surprised at their state of pre servation. One gentleman had not left Cairo prepared for heat, and the close atmosphere of the different chambers and The Serapenm. 21 passages completely overcame him. He had to get into the open air as quickly as possible ; he could eat no lunch, and was unwell for some time afterwards.

I was glad my husband seemed no worse for the close confinement and the inspection of the tombs. Our luncheon was nicely pre pared for us under the shade of a house close by (I am uncertain if it was Mariette's house or not) ; and when we had regaled ourselves and rested, we mounted our patient donkeys for our return to the steamer on the Nile. The owners of these fine animals, — so different to ours in England, — pass the time in making de mands for backsheesh in the shape of "cigarettes" or money. My boy said, " I no beat donkey. My donkey Ai. His donkey, ' Yankee Doodle.' His no go. My donkey fine. He go well, gallop leddie ? " and suiting the action to the word, he applies his stick with a whack to the poor animal, and off he gallops with me in a way that would make an English boy stare.

Yes, and during those few miles, more than one gentleman fell oil', and E. amongst the number ; but thank God, his umbrella saved his fall, though it broke the handle. I have since been told that it is no unusual occurrence for a gentleman to be laid up at Shepheard's with a broken collar-bone, only through a donkey-ride. On this occasion we arrived safely at our respective hotels, none the worse for our adventures, with the one exception I have named. My walking shoes were so full of sand from the desert of Sakkara, that I saved it as a memento of the clay, and it is now in a little box at home. March 10th. — Yesterday being Sunday, we went in the morning to the pretty church here. There was a full congrega tion, and we enjoyed the service. In the THE GIZEII PYRAMID. — Page 23. British Schools at Cairo. 23 afternoon, we walked to the late Miss Whateley's schools.

No children were there, as we had some heavy showers of rain after lunch, although bright intervals of sunshine. We were just in time for service ; there were only a few young men present, but they were very devotional, and listened attentively to the sermon. Of course, as all was in Arabic, we could not understand. Behind a curtain there were some women, who sang most heartily — it was quite re freshing to hear them. The service being over, Mrs. Shakoor (the Syrian lady now in charge, and who has worked with the late Miss Whately for twenty-seven years) invited us to come to the house, a few yards off, and take a cup of tea. Another heavy shower was just coming on, so we gladly accepted, and we were much interested in all she told us about the work. The Lord has provided for them since Miss Whateley died, just a year ago by the day of the month ; though at one time they were pressed for funds.