A Brief Description of Orkney, Zetland, Pightland-Firth, and Caithness, etc

Front matter

HACO'S EXPEDITION AGAINST SCOTLAND, 1263. The Norwegian Account, literally translated from the Original MSS. by the Rev. James Johnstone, A.M., and originally printed for the Author in 1782. 250 Copies, on vellum note paper, parchment cover, each numbered and signed. Price 6s. A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF ORKNEY, ZETLAND, PIGHTLAND-FIRTH AND CAITHNESS. COPIES PRINTED, OF WHICH 148 ARE FOR SALE. A Brief DESCRIPTION OF Orkney, Zetland, Pightland-Firth & Caithness WHEREIN, After a short Journal of the Author's Voyage thither, These Northern Places are first more Generally Described ; Then a Particular View is given of the several Isles thereto belonging, Together with an Account of what is most Rare and Remarkable therein : with the Author's Observes thereupon. LlY Rev. JOHN BRAND Reprinted verbatim from the Original Edition of 1 70 1.

WILLIAM BROWN ,49 PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH, 1883. THE first edition of the following "Description of Orkney, Zetland, Pightland-Firth and Caithness',' appeared in the year 1701, and obtained such a measure of popularity as to lead to a second edition two years later. The author, a clergyman of the Church of Scotland, visited the districts of which he writes, as one of a Commission appointed by the General As sembly of his Church to inquire into the state of religion and morals in these parts. He evidently was a man of education and intelligence, and, not content with limiting his investigations to matters ecclesiastical, set him self to acquire all sorts of information relative to a portion of the kingdom at that time some what inaccessible. Antiquities, traditions, and superstitions, commerce, manners, and customs, ornithology, zoology, and climatic peculiarities, all these and much more came within the range of his inquiries ; the result being a most read able and entertaining volume.

The mingling of native shrewdness and caution with the credulity common to his time renders his relation of much that was told to ( 6 ) him very amusing, and gives peculiar zest to the " observes " which he sees fit to make upon matters deemed worthy of special atten tion. The largely increased interest in these northern isles displayed during recent years, and the popularity and scarcity of this " De scription " have led to the present edition, which is reprinted verbatim from that of 1701, and which, it is hoped, will prove not unacceptable. Edinuurgh, 1st March 1883.

Preface

To the READER. s SHALL not insist on an Apology, why I trouble the Sweating Press, tho I might use and plead the common Topicks taken from the Advice and Importunity of others, and to prevent the Publishing of some of these Remarks, excerpt from my Papers, by some, into whose hands, they had fallen, after they had lien by me several Months. There are several Grave Persons in these Isles of good and solid Judgment, both Ministers and Others, who being better acquainted with the Places of their ordinary Residence, then it can be supposed I had occasion to be, might have Published something more valuable on this Head, and set their Remarks in a clearer Light. As likewise some of my Dear Brethren of the Commission, might have done it to greater Ad vantage. Yet the Engagements that lay on me, to Transcribe the most Remarkable Occurrences, and the Solicitation of some thereupon, to Pub-

PREFACE.

. lish them, have some way obliged me to make this Appearance. However if others hereby shall be excited to serve the Publick, by giving a fuller and clearer Description of these Gener ally little known Places, this Essay will not prove altogether unuseful. And if I had known that any intended to have Published something of this nature, the World had not been troubled with my Scribling. I hope none will judge, that I Act without my Line, in giving Descriptions of this Nature, see ing all are called to Remember tlie Works of tlie Lord and Talk of His Doings, as they have occasion : And all along, I endeavour to keep in mind the Character I bear, dropping some thing of a Spiritual Improvement. Our Historians, such as I have consulted, have given but a very brief and lame, and in some things a false Account of these places, especially Zetland, which is unknown to the most of the Nation, if not, that they have only heard, there were such Isles, as the Zetlandick.

It is true, there is one Mr Wallace a late Minis ter in Orkney, who hath gratified the World, by giving a Description, of the Orkney-Isles ; But neither Zetland nor Caithness doth he meddle with: And as to Orkney, there are several things which deserve their own Remark, he makes no mention of; And others have fallen out since

PREFACE.

. 9 his time, which I have noticed. So that, on the whole, the Account now given even of Orkney, will appear almost new to any, who shall be pleased to compare the two Descriptions to gether. No doubt but such as know these Places, will desiderate several things no less Remarkable, then what are Observed ; But still my Reader would remember, That this is but a Diary Transcribed. Yet this I may say, as I have not willingly suffered myself to be imposed on, so neither have I imposed any thing on the Credu lous World, but delivered such things which either I was witness to, or had good ground to believe from Persons worthy of Credit. So that if any thing appear Questionable, I have ordin arly in general given my Author for it. I suppose the judicious Reader in perusing omne tuft the following sheets, will find things both qui mikuit utile dulci.

Curious and Instructive, affording matter of Meditation to the Wise Observers of Providence. As to any Philosophical or Philological Observers, as I am unfit for, so am I far from a Magisterial dictating of them to any, but soberly proposed my own Sentiments, which if my Reader do not relish, he may follow his own. Altho the Style be not Quaint and Elegant,

PREFACE.

. 10 embellished with the Ornaments of Art ; yet I hope it will be sound plain and intelligible; and tho sometimes obliged to express my self in the Dialect or Idiotism of the Countrey, yet ordin arily such Words and Phrases are some way explained. So when I speak of Orkney or Zetland, as not in Scotland, tho depending thereupon, I express myself, as the Countrey do. As to the Commissions Work I have not meddled therewith, except when the thread of the History did require me to touch it. How ever this I may add, Our weak endeavours, for the Advancement of the Interest of Our LORD JESUS, in these remote Corners, have not been found, by Superior Judicatories, altogether unsuccessful ; And, I suppose, it repents none of us, of our Voyage thither ; however dan gerous it did prove. PACE i 6 iS 42 62 S2 96 125 148 193 207 220 z\ THE CONTENTS Os the Chapters Introduction.

Chap. I. A J( I. A Journal of our Voyage. Chap. II. A Description of Orkney in General. Chap. III. A Description of the several Isles of Orkney in Particular. Chap. IV. Concerning some Remarkable things in Orkney. Chap. V. An Account of some superstitious Rites, Charms &c. Yet remaining there. Chap. VI. A Description of Zetland m General. Chap. VII. A Description ofthe sevetal Parishes, and most considerable Isles in Zetland. Chap. VIII. An Account of some Remarkable things in Zetland. Chap. IX. Concerning their Fish-Trade. Chap. X. A Description of Pightland Firth. Chap. XI. A Description of Caithness. Appendix, ERRATA. COME Typographical Errors have crept into the Press, which the Reader would be pleased to correct, as page io. We saw, lege, when we saw. page 58. my Lord Darlin, lege my Lord Darly or Darnly. p. 141.

Hilesha, lege Hildesha. Upon the head of the Pages, 207, till 219, a Description of Zetland, lege a Description of Pight land Firth. Some other small Errata's there are, which the Candid Reader will pardon, seeing in so far as I observe, they do not marr the sense. To His GRACE, JAMES DUKE OF HAMILTON. May it please Your Grace, Ajgijjgai^ll Pon my Return from Zetland, as 5kffnli4 'DOUnc^ m Duty> I payed my Resi*shp|pf pects to Your GR. Who was pleased 'Sk^JggBl to ask, If I had kept a Diary ? Which I acknowledged, but could not shew it, till the Remarks therein contained, were Trans cribed, which when done, Y. GR. should have them to glance at, some leisure Hour. Thus Your Command giving Rise to this Undertak ing, I have presumed to make the Dedication to Y. GR. The Noble and Illustrious Family of HAMIL TON, the first in the Nation, standeth in no need of Panegyricks from me, to set forth its Eminency.

His GR. Your FATHER was very Instrumental in Settling the Peace and Quiet of this Kingdom at the late Merciful and Wonderful Revolution, as became a Patriot of ( 14 ) His Country ; Under whose Presidency, in the Convention of Estates, the Government of Our Church was Restored, which since hath been Confirmed by the subsequent Parliaments. . In His Surviving Consort, Your Pious MOTHER, these Endowments and Qualifica tions requisite in the Consort of a Prince, have Eminently shined Forth, which will Embalm Her Name to succeeding Generations : Her likewise being so very Helpful to many Afflicted Ones, both in the former Years of this Churches Distress and Trouble, and in the latter of great Scarcity and Dearth, She knowing how Valuable are the Blessings of those, who were ready to Perish. Your GR.

Honourable Appearance for, and Acknowledgment of Presbyterian Government, in the last Session of Parliament, was Accept able to many : And I hope Y. GR. shall never have Cause to Repent of Your Continuing to Favour the Ancient Government of this Church, which as it is Conform to the Scripture-Plan, so the Lord hath been Graciously Pleased to owne and Countenance it, in the Great Things, he hath done for and by the Ministers and Pro fessors thereof. Among these things for which You stand Obliged to the Wise Conduct of Providence, One is, That You have been so well Directed ( '5 ) in the Happy Choice of Your Consorts : Your Present LADY of a Sweet and Gentle Temper, Her Carriage Obliging and Discreet to all, Her Loving to Entertain Pious and Religious Discourse, Her Modest and Exemplary Dress : I wish She may prove a Blessing to Y. Illustrious Family, and be as Rachel or as Leah, which two did Build up the House of Israel.

Your Noble Brother LORD GEORGE, hath been Created by Our Present GRACIOUS KING, EARL of ORKNEY, for His Heroick Appearances, under the Auspicious Conduct of Our King, who was pleased to take notice thereof, some of these being under His Majesties As is evident ' b J by the Nar- View ; And in Testimony of His Royal Favour, p^)™t°^fhU Dignify Him with this Honourable Title, v/hich Honourin the Years of Ancient Times, hath Blazoned the Escutcheons of Kings. The Branches of Y. Illustrious Family do Flourish in several Parts of the Nation, tho God in His Holy Providence, hath made lately a Breach thereupon, to Y. Grief and the Nations Loss. Your GR. Relation to the Ancient and Honourable Family of Douglas, gives me occasion to mention that old Alliance betwixt that House and the Princes of Orkney.

William Lord of Niddisdale, commonly called the Black Douglas, ( 16 ) by Egidia or Giles Daughter of King Rob. 2, had a Daughter of the same Name, Married to Henry Sinclar usually Styled Knight of the Cockle, of the Garter, and Prince of Orkney. To Him Succeeded his Son William Sinclar, Married to Elizabeth Douglas, Daughter to Archi bald Karl of Douglas, Sir-Named Tineman; Whose Titles were, Knight of the Golden Fleece and of the Cockle, Prince of Orkney, Duke of Holdenburgh, Earl of Caithness, Lord Sinclar, Lord of Niddisdale, Great Admiral of Scotland &c. Hist, of the House of Douglas & Angus. About the end ofthe i^ and be ginning of the I5 Cent. My L. the Knowledge of History, is that which the most of Men are taken with, as be ing both Pleasant and Useful ; And it cannot but stain the Reputation of any, tho able to give Account of what is Rare in other Coun trys, If they be Ignorant of their own, and Places which Depend thereupon, where things no less Remarkable do Occur, which may both Exercise the Ingenious, and Edify the Gracious Inquirers.

But above all, Blessed are they who make a Religious Improvement of Natural Observes, and use all Arts and Sciences as Hand-maids to Religion and Piety ; The Knowledge of Christ is the Queen of Sciences, Hence a Learned Paul ddermineth to know nothing but Christ and Him Crucified ; And those who in all Ages ( i7 ) have been Wise unto Salvation, have preferred Christ's Cross to the Worlds Crown ; And with Moses, reckoned His worst things better then the Worlds best. The Knowledge of all other things without the Knowledge of Christ, is as a Shadow without the Substance, and a Body without the Head, as some have Instituted the Comparison ; Yea they are avot'iroi without Mind and Judgment ; The Cardinal Vertues, as they are called, may be Attained in Shew, but not in Truth, Quid enim Mis cum Virtutibus qui De Virtutem Christum ignorant ?

All the Glory and Grandure of the World, laid in the Ballance with this piece of Saving Knowledge is but as a Grain Weight to counter-balance a huge Mountain : Hence a notable saying of a Gaieaccs Caracciolm truly Noble Lord, when set upon by the Jesuits, JJan* to change his Religion. Tempting him with*^°mos Splendid and Rich Offers, Let their Money saith he, Perish with them, who think all the Glory of the World, worth one days Communion with Jesus Oirist. And truly it is but small Gain, the most Painful and Able Student doth Reap, tf tndocti L rapiunt after all his Labour in the Records of Antiquity c™J_%f and Researches of Nature, and it may be through '" , _ _ rT . ,-. . ... ., ,. Gehennam the Maze of Intricate Disquisition, he lose his tndimur. Soul, and notwithstanding of all his Learning be thrust into Hell, being forced to cry out on Death Bed, as it ib reported the Learned Grotius ( i8 ) once did, Ah vitam perdidi, operose nihil agendo.

My Lord, I hope it will not prove Unsavory to Y. GR., that I have a little Enlarged this Epistle, in Commending of Christ and Religion, which so much Transcendeth Our Commenda tion and Praise, whence so many Advantages do Accrue to Us, and among others, when there are early Impressions of Piety on any, the Con science for ever after useth to hang about them, notwithstanding the Tenor of their Lives hath been assaulted with manifold Tentations. That Y. GR. may still continue to be a True Lover of Your Country, and a Zealous Asserter of Her Rights and Liberties, is and shall be the Desire of him, who is May it please Your GR. Your GR. most Humble and most Dutiful Servant, John Brand. A Description of Orkney, Zetland and Caithness.