Norway: its fjords, fjelds, and fosses

Front matter

NORWAY A NORWAY ITS FJORDS, FJELDS, AND FOSSES BY JOHN BRADSHAW LONDON DIGBY, LONG & CO., PUBLISHERS 18 BOUVERIE STREET, FLEET STREET, E.C. CONTENTS CHjLP. 'AGE Preface 7 I. Manners, Dress, Farming, Scenery . 9 II Postal Arrangements, Fish and Timber Industries, Saeters, Railways, Native Conveyances, Roads . . 28 IH, Religion, Ancient Churches, Emigration, Cruiser and Independent Travel, Local Steamers, Season . 44 IV. Bergen to Vadheim through the Naerodal 56 V. Vadheim to Bergen via Utviken and Aalesund ..... 72 VI. Christiansand and Christiania . . 92 VII. Christiania to Sundalsoren . .112 VIII. Sundalsoren to Reiten . . .144 IX. Reiten to Oie 169 X. Oie to Bergen

Preface

This little work is intended to serve the purpose of introducing briefly, some of the chief characteristic features of Norway and the Norwegians, and generally to give some faint idea and impressions of a country that is fast coming to the front as a happy hunting ground for tourists, and which must in the ordinary course of events, develop with great rapidity in that direction in the near future. Reference is made to the wonderful moun tains, valleys, fjords, lakes, rivers, waterfalls, snowfields and glaciers, and attention is drawn to the fact, that while the modern cruiser so justly popular, plays an important and acceptable part in tours to the Land of the Vikings, it is easily possible to visit Norway on independent lines, and to carry a programme to a successful issue with Preface 8 little or no inconvenience, and thus come more in contact with the natives themselves, see more of their habits, manners, and customs, and other wise gain a more complete knowledge of the country in all its various phases.

At the same time enabling the active and enterprising tourist to travel at leisure, and to penetrate districts which cruisers rarely, and in some instances, cannot cater for. JOHN BRADSHAW. February, 1896. NORWAY

Chapter I

manners, dress, farming, scenery It has been said that to visit Norway once, is to visit it again. This saying, though probably not applicable to every visitor to the Land of the Mid night Sun, yet in the main is quite correct and is fully confirmed by actual facts, for indeed few visitors to this grand tourist's paradise have failed to record their second visit, or to promise themselves an early return. There is something so attractive and fascinating about a Norwegian tour, whatever that something may be, that the first introduction in variably creates a profound impression and a keen thirst for more, and this too, in spite of the dreaded passage across the North Sea, which rarely deters the genuine enthusiast, shaky though he be, from braving it out. Instances are numerous where persons who have a great dislike to sea-travelling frankly aver that having once seen some of the Norway 10 beauties of Norway, the difficulties and unpleasant ness of the voyage would never stop them from visiting it again.

But what is it that produces such highly favourable impressions, and gives cause for such jubilation ? There must be something to account for this extraordinary concensus of opinion. Taking advantage of every opportunity for seeking individual opinion of Norway, the conclusion arrived at is that not a single instance of dissatisfaction can be traced. On the contrary there is an unanimous Gamle Norge, and a special delight in giving vent to feelings of the highest admiration for Norway, and its genuine attractions for those who desire complete change of scene, and to enjoy the fullest advantages of a clear and thoroughly bracing atmosphere. One of the most attractive features of Norway is its people. At once kind and obliging, their very presence and appearance seems to indi cate a welcome, and a genuine one too, such indeed as a traveller cannot fail to recognise and note with some degree of satisfaction.

The very simple life they lead in mountainous districts, far away from the hurry-scurry, bustle, and evils so rampant in larger centres of population, of which there are very few in Norway, is largely responsible for their pleasingly reserved manners. Then, too, Norway, whilst making rapid progress as a happy hunting ground for tourists, cannot be said in any sense to have reached that stage which is usually described by the word overrun ; hence the traveller is still looked upon with some interest, and in some dis tricts his presence excites no little curiosity. It is this friendly greeting and kindly interest that makes us feel quite at home amongst the Norwegians. It cannot be laid to their charge that all this good feeling is exhibited for what they can profit by it in a pecuniary sense ; on the contrary, it is the natural outcome of the highest form of honest simplicity.

With the exception of two or three of the principal towns, the visitor will find his requirements liberally met at reasonable rates, a fact very much in con trast to many well-known tourist centres elsewhere. Norwegians are honest to a degree, and devoutly thankful for a modest recompense for services rendered. Their satisfaction is shown in a character istically marked manner, for, invariably, thanks are accompanied by a vigorous hand-shaking and ma?ige tak. It is a pleasant custom, which if not recipro cated would give grievous offence, almost amount ing to insult. The costumes worn by the peasantry, especially females, are exceedingly interesting and pretty, and certainly add another distinctive feature to the pleasant side of Norway. Although perhaps not so much in vogue as of yore, there is ample evidence to show that there is still a good deal of respect for the old style, which it is to be hoped will long continue, for, after all, native style of dress has its peculiar charms, particularly so where nature Norway 12 has been more than ordinarily lavish in the bestowal of natural advantages in the individuals who are the wearers of these lovely costumes ; and be it said that the Norse people are not lacking in this essential quality.

These bright coloured garments may be seen almost at any time, though perhaps the most favourable opportunity arises on the occasion of a general holiday, when the peasantry come out in their best and most varied colours, and invade towns like Bergen in large numbers ; thus an excellent chance is afforded for making a most interesting study of what is essentially an interesting subject. There is a distinct difference in the style, colour, and ornamentation of one district as against another. The Hardanger, which claims to be the prettiest, Hallingdal, and Telemarken all have a reddish hue, but vary in design, whilst those of the Saetersdal and Numedal are even more elaborate and gaudy. The people further north are less conspicuous in this respect, for we find in the Sondmore districts that the prevailing colour is quite dark, in fact it is simply plain black.

As for bonnets, hats, and the like, they are almost a minus quantity, as the women either discard headgear absolutely, or are content to wear tiny shawls as a covering for their heads. The most brilliant colours are those worn on the occasion of weddings, when there is quite a gorgeous display, enhanced considerably by the addition of innumerable trinkets ; the completion of which is made up by the elaborate bridal crown, as part of the bridal outfit. The size, style, and general design of these important outfits, varies in different parts of the country ; but all are alike pretty and exceedingly novel. The people them selves are quite a study to Englishmen ; their primitive simplicity at once enlists some little sympathy, for they are the very essence of plain ness, whilst their modest, retiring ways, are a guarantee of respect for others.

Their lonely homes on the mountain slopes are often situated in very remote out-of-the-way places, where the population is of the scantiest dimensions, in fact, frequently consisting of a very few straggling huts, maybe on the margin of a lake or fjord, where a steamer touches occasionally ; or perhaps in some dai or valley, where the mountains are sometimes, in the more favoured districts, partially covered with trees ; but often presenting a rocky, awe inspiring appearance, with a woeful absence of anything worthy of the name of vegetation, from which to procure those essential necessaries of life, or to afford the facilities for earning the where withal to purchase them. Such conditions as these fill us with amazement. But what is to be said for those people who live, or rather exist, on the mountain slopes, some hundreds of feet above the level of the fjord, who spend their time Norway 14 in endeavouring to eke out an existence from the most limited area of land of the roughest descrip tion.

This land is by no means level, on the contrary, it is often exceedingly steep ; still, for all that, large patches are brought under culti vation, which look like an oasis in a desert. The people seem to live in almost absolute solitude, for company is scarce, perhaps there may be three or four farms clustered together in a small area, much less than is occupied by one small farm in England. Such frivolities as amusements are quite out of the question, whilst intercourse with friends must necessarily be very much restricted. Means of communication, too, is often of the most primitive kind, as well as laborious : hence, it is easy to imagine that ascending and descending precipitous sides of mountains is not likely to be too frequently indulged in, particularly when it is remembered that the paths are rough, intricate and uncertain.

Even when the level of the fjord is reached, there is little to be gained, for the only means of transit is by row-boat, and then the little villages are so few and scattered, that considerable time and much energy would be required to get from one small centre of population to another. Thus it will be seen that it must be very urgent business that would induce a man to leave his home. On the other hand, if journeys were undertaken along the mountain sides or over the ■5 tops, innumerable difficulties would at once be experienced, and much time lost in accomplishing the feat. With these facts in view, it is not difficult to understand that under such disadvant ages, pilgrimages from hcme are not of frequent occurrence, whilst those which actually do take place are largely utilised for special marketing purposes, such as the buying and selling of pro duce and cattle.

The native food, like other things Norwegian, is of the plainest description, much of which is produced on the spot. Flatbrod — the native bread — is baked in large quantities, and will keep for a long time, especially the coarser sort. The thinner, and wafer-like kind, is white, and pleasant to the palate. True, fish enters largely into the regular diet, but that, if not the product of the farm, is easily obtainable in the lakes and fjords in the immediate vicinity. In some districts such excellent dishes as Ryper (Ptarmigan), and reindeer are often served up. Whilst native diet amongst the peasantry is of the simplest kind, capital meals are to be had along all the recognised tourists' routes ; whilst at some of the less frequented stations, the bill of fare is by no means despicable, and more than passable to hungry mortals.

If some of the dishes are not exactly, in every particular, agreeable to the taste of the visitor, he can generally successfully negoti ate Norwegian fish, potatoes, eggs, and milk. If Norway he cannot sip their tea with the utmost satisfaction, he is sure to enjoy their splendid coffee, which, by the way, is a speciality with Norwegians. Then, too, he will notice with some degree of pleasure that English biscuits are very much en evidence, and that the most famous of English pickles are constantly staring him in the face. It is impossible not to notice the absence of that useful and much abused animal, the pig, for it rarely happens that the rasher of bacon becomes part of the morning meal. If, however, that tasty bit is not to be had, there is always a plentiful supply of fresh eggs, of delightful quality, indeed, the quantity is so great, that you can generally rely upon them being served from one to three times per diem.

Potatoes also may be reckoned upon in the same way ; whilst in some parts of Norway delicious little pancakes form part of the regular diet. These little pancakes are so lightly made, and tasty, that they could almost be demolished by the dozen. No wonder then that they are so well patronised and heartily relished. The very sight of them produces a special longing for a taste of the dainty morsel. Milk is plentiful, ridiculously cheap, of the very best quality, and heavily charged with cream. It is, in fact, absolutely pure and un adulterated, and good enough to satisfy the most exacting. In Norway there is no necessity to increase the quantity by any process of dilution, for there are few enough people to consume that which is the first product of the cow or goat. Cheese — Ost — is a feature in Norwegian dairy farming — mineral waters — minerlsvandfabrik — are alike excellent in quality and variety.

As already indicated the visitor to Norway at once becomes interested in, and sympathetic towards the Norwegian people, with whom he feels quite at home. Still there are other matters which attract his attention, for not only has he heard and read of the proverbial kindness and civility amongst the peasantry, but he possesses knowledge of those mountains, some of which are pretty because of an extensive covering of forest trees ; others, the major portions, are absolute masses of bare rock, presenting a fiercely wild appearance, and all the more striking because of their sheer, abrupt perpendicularity, and the absence of anything worthy the name of vegetation. Some of these mountains rise like pinnacles, after the style of the famous Romsdalhorn, others with jagged saw-like peaks after the fashion of the Troltinderne, whilst there are those, which notwithstanding their precipitous sides have a long stretch of comparatively level surface, some containing immense snowfields and glaciers, such for instance, as the Folgefond, in the Hardanger, or maybe, others are sufficiently fertile as to be considered good enough for grazing purposes, or to produce a crop of grass at a height of several B Norway thousand feet.

Many of the more exposed mountains, however, have a perpetual covering of snow and ice, the most striking example of which is the great Jostedalsbrae. The mountains of Norway cannot claim the same gigantic heights that the Swiss mountains attain; all the same, they have probably a much more im - posing appearance, because they rise straight up from actual sea-level, and the peaks follow each other in rapid succession, whereas the Swiss mountains are usually long-backed, and often have their starting points of ascent at some valley already situated several thousand feet above the level of the sea. The most famous of Norwegian mountains are to be found in the Jotunheim, for it is here that the highest peak, the Galdhopeg, 8,400 feet, raises its majestic head, and is closely followed by the Glit tertind, 8,383 feet.

The Dovrefield, with Shnehatta 7,700 feet, also claims a prominent position in this respect ; whilst the mountains of the Eikisdal, Romsdal, Sundal, Norangsdal, and Loendal, are rich in peaks from 4,000 feet to 6,000 feet in height. Glaciers there are in abundance, not a few of which belong to the extensive order, indeed the Jostedals brae in the Jotunheim ranks as the largest glacier in Europe, and covers an area of over 500 square miles. There are also the Smorstabbrae, Folge fonden, Buarbrae, Brigsdalbrae, Suphellebrae, and many more equally interesting and important, all of which help in no small degree to make up pretty scenic effects, which contribute largely to the pleasures and fascinations of a wonderful country, as well as affording material to enable the geologist to exercise his splendid resources for not only hours, days, or months, but years in 'discerning cause and effect, and indulging in the gratification derivable from the solution of problems, and the proving of recognised theories.

Snow-capped mountains, huge snowfields, and mighty glaciers are important features in Norwegian scenery and eminent characteristics of the country, and as such are a source of attraction to tourists in general. Norway is often spoken of as the land of waterfalls, in fact, Norway and fosses are almost synonymous terms. In this respect the title is in no sense misleading, it is indeed true to the letter. For quantity and quality, Norway is well-nigh unsurpassed. In England waterfalls are few and far between, small in height and volume, although exceedingly pretty. Instances are rare where there is a sheer fall of 250 feet, whereas 60 feet to 150 feet is much nearer the average. In Norway there appears to be no end to them. You can see as many as you like, and all to yourself. You can have them smaller or greater in size, of greater or lesser volume, thin, narrow, streaky, or, if you prefer it, any width to that approaching the average width of a river.

In Norway 20 England, special pilgrimages are frequently made in order to see a fall of some 80, or 100 ft, which is looked upon as a treat worth going miles to see, and, moreover, no effort is spared in the accomplishment of that object. In this respect the English lake district, and Wales are notable examples. Now, in Norway, these falls would be considered of an inferior class, indeed they would -not only rank amongst the smallest, but as such would scarcely be worthy of recognition, or at any rate would only command a passing glance. Norsemen can count their fosses by the hundreds, whilst it not unfrequently happens that a dozen are clustered close together, and many a time the eye can cover quite a score at a glance, all of which will probably not be less than 500 feet, and from that to several thousand.

These mighty fosses occurring at almost every turn, present a remarkably pretty sight. Perhaps the finest and most imposing effects are produced in viewing the wonderful Skjaeggedalsfos in the Hardanger, with its huge volume of water falling impetuously over the rocks to a depth of some 530 feet below. The pretty Tyssestrenge, in the same district, has a descent of nearly 500 feet. The Voringfos, also in the Hardanger, is another remarkable specimen, vieing in grandeur with the famous Skjaeggedalsfos. Opinions are somewhat at variance as to which of these two is the finest, some favour the former, others give their verdict for the latter, but perhaps the balance of opinion leans towards the Skjaeggedalsfos. The strong points in favour of Norway as a paradise for tourists are not exhausted by one or two specialities, as will already have been observed ; its magnificent com bination is full of beauty, variety, and charm.

In the matter of lakes or vands as they are called, there is almost an endless quantity, as a close observation on a good map will readily prove to conviction. There must indeed be some thousands of them. Nor is the quality sacrificed for quantity, as there are many that are exceedingly pretty and of con siderable dimensions. The largest and not the least interesting is the great Mjosen Lake, which is sixty-two miles long, and nearly ten miles wide at its widest part ; it is a veritable inland sea. Others there are, but smaller, nevertheless they possess many pleasing characteristic features. The words charming, pretty, are not inapplicable in many instances, for the surroundings are often very beautiful in consequence of the immediate presence of so much timber. On the other hand, the opposite effect is exemplified where the lakes are bounded by huge precipitous rocky mountains on each side, rising out of the water like veritable giants and imparting a dark sombre appearance, such, for example, as the Loenvand and Eikisdal vand.

There are also plenty of lakes to be found on the higher levels ; but these form another class, Norway 22 and are much less imposing ; still there is some thing attractive about them, if only by reason of their out-of-the-way situations and the difficulties necessary to be overcome in reaching them. Something must be said in reference to Norwegian rivers. Perhaps the first thing that strikes English men is the quantity of water they contain, and the rapidity of their flow. Instead of the quiet peaceful meandering, as though time were no object, and slow, lazy, dawdling the correct speed, almost all Norwegian rivers seem to be in a desperate hurry, the waters of which have a habit of rushing im petuously at a great breakneck speed, just as though the most important mission on this earth is to do everything in the greatest possible hurry.

Peaceful rivers have their charm and so have the rushing torrents, for they sometimes produce really fine effects, as in Norway they often speed their course through rock}' ravines and gorges, appearing more like waterfalls and pretty cascades. For a capital illustration, it is only necessary to point to the river Rauma, in the Romsdal, which possesses all the elements of an impetuous river, passing through ravines and forming cascades and even waterfalls. The largest river in Norway, however, is the river Glommen, which practically extends from Christiania to Throndhjem. Whatever else can be said in praise of Norway's wonders, it cannot be denied that one of its greatest charms, and what has gained for it so great and increasing popularity, is its fjords. Those remarkable indentations of the coast, the great rami fications extending inland for distances of upwards of one hundred miles, with endless twists and turns, and quite as remarkable offshoots, branching off the main channel on each side at frequent intervals, are all wonderful specimens of Nature's handiwork.

The larger fjords might readily be taken to re present the trunk of a tree, and the smaller ones the branches. Words can scarcely adequately express one's feelings when sailing along these extensive inland seas for, to a stranger, they are nothing short of pleasing bewilderments. Not only is there a great breadth of water, but it frequently happens that stupendous mountains jut out in every direction, with every appearance of blocking up the way. Many a time there appears to be no outlet, yet the steamer plies merrily along, and threads its way through all sorts of narrow winding channels in the most audacious manner, defying all obstacles, and accomplishing its object with the greatest ease. It speaks volumes for present day navigation, when so many dangerous corners, narrow channels, ins and outs can be so successfully negociated, for they must indeed tax the utmost resources of even Nor wegian navigators.

The character of the scenery of these fjords varies according to the different Norway 24 districts. Some have a soft pleasing appearance owing to the presence of an abundance of trees, shrubs, and occasional farmsteads. This condition of things is more prevalent in the South, especially Christiania way; still the Hardanger claims some prominence in this respect. The Sognefjord is somewhat wilder, whilst the Hjorundfjord produces a greater contrast still; in fact the Sondmore district in general, and the Geiranger in particular are all of the fiercer and more rugged type. The fjord waters are pretty in colour and very clear; hence beautiful reflections are very common. The mountains, sometimes, with snow on the upper reaches, and occasionally a long straggling waterfall, are all faithfully and clearly portrayed.

It has often been remarked that the waters of the fjords are always smooth. Generally speaking, the statement has some truth about it; all the same there is considerable oscillation at times, and more than one fjord has been known to show a little white on the top. All things considered it is hardly possible to imagine a better way of enjoying oneself than by sailing leisurely amongst these magnificent fjords in comparatively smooth water, with little chance of discomfort, and amidst scenery of the most profound description. All this too, in an atmosphere of the purest, lightest, and most delightfully invigorating kind; and a body gradually improving in condition under its influences. In the meantime opportunities are afforded for throwing off dull care and anxieties and receiving in return, a light heart, a system full of energy and vitality, and an enormous appetite to boot.

It is wonderful what the atmosphere of Norwegian mountains and fjords can do for a person in the matter of eating. Experience teaches that prodigious results accrue in consequence. Another pleasant feature in connection with sailing along fjords, especially when making a round on local boats, is the fact that these steamers not only sail up the minor fjords, but make numerous calls, en route, at little interesting villages, where excellent opportunities are afforded for seeing the natives who invariably gather together in full force at the landing place, and apparently as a matter of duty turn up to see the steamer arrive. They await with evident interest the process of unloading and loading of little packages, boxes, bundles of dried fish, live cattle in the shape of cows, goats, and sheep, with an occasional pony or two.

Many are the curious and amusing incidents that occur during a day's journey at the various places of call. Every article is closely scanned and all details observed, just as if the people themselves had a personal interest in the shipments. The process once concluded they await the departure of the boat, and watch its course long after the journey Norway has been resumed, in fact until the craft is ab solutely lost to view. There need be small wonder at this kindly interest, for living in such out-of-the way places, amidst lofty mountains, far away from any important centre of population where indus tries are almost a minus quantity, and the inhabitants are few and very much scattered. It is only what might be expected, that such events as the arrival of steamers are amongst, if not the most important of their yearly routine.

They form food for gossip, for no doubt they are the chief if not the only means of supplying the latest intelligence of the world's doings, even then the news may be a week or two old, but what matters that ; Nor wegians don't worry about such trivial things as those, they take everything very much as it comes, and if it does not come one day they are prepared to wait until the next. Time is no object with them ; there are no trams or trains to catch, and nothing in the way of modern methods of com munications. Perhaps there is every excuse for their one-speed policy, for really there seems to be nothing in their surroundings or circumstances to necessitate a wakening up. As a matter of fact the whole year round must be pretty much the same from beginning to end, except possibly that the winter is even slower still, and much more monotonous in consequence of the darker days and greater prevalence of snow, which makes outdoor industry, farming, and such like, almost impractic able. At these times little more can be accomplished than atttending to cattle and looking after firewood.

Chapter II

postal arrangements, fish and timber in dustries, saeters, railways, native conveyances, roads Additional interest is attached to local steamers in Norway by reason of their carrying mails, a circumstance, no doubt, responsible for more than passive curiosity, for it is needless to say that post men are not the least interesting and important personages even in these parts. The chief point, however, liesin the fact that excellent postal arrangements are in vogue on all the fjord steamers. A postmaster usually accompanies each boat, and is provided with a small office, where he conducts all postal transactions. Mails are received and delivered at the various places of call. Letters can be posted aboard ship, for which an ordinary letter box is provided, and facilities are afforded for the purchase of stamps.

It is in fact a veritable travel ling post-office. The postmasters vary in regard to age. Some are more reserved than others, yet it is possible to meet with an occasional one who is of a communica tive turn of mind, who probably knows sufficient of the English language to allow of his utilising at least a portion of his leisure time in friendly con versation, and of gaining the opportunity of giving his English a little airing. During these happy moments, he will proceed to explain the state of affairs, political and social, in his own country ; then he will gladly welcome a little knowledge of the current topics of the day, and show a general interest in matters English. Norwegian industries are in no sense numerous, indeed they are strictly limited. Farming must necessarily be considerably discounted, where good soil is scarce, and rocks are so abundant.

Poor in quality and little of it, with few facilities for turning it to the best account, are not conditions under which the Norsemen are likely to prosper to any great extent ; or to receive sufficient en couragement to go in for a material development of productive power. Some parts of Norway, particularly in the extreme south, are good growing districts, and make up somewhat for the failure in the more mountainous districts further north. Naturally, with the advantages of so many gushing rivers, splendid lakes, magnificent fjords, and any amount of coast line, it is only to be expected that Norway offers great facilities for fishing ; hence Norway 30 it is not surprising that it forms a very important source of revenue, and is carried on on a very large scale. The trade in both the fresh and dried state is very extensive.