Views of Louisiana; together with a Journal of a Voyage up the Missouri River in 1811

Front matter

VIEWS OF LOUISIANA; TOGETHER WITH A JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE UP THB MISSOURI RIVER, IN 1811 BV H. M. BRACKENRIDCE, ES-4.. Pittsburgh; PRUTT***** AND ICBLISHED BY CR/MFR, SPEAR ASD EICHSAllft', franklin head ojjice. 1814- DISTRICT OF PENNSYLVANIA, to wit : BE IT REMEMBERED, That on the twenty-fourth day of November, in the thirty-eighth year of the Independence ol the United States of America, A.D. 1813, Henry M. B«ack enhidge, of the said District, hath deposited in this office the Title of a Book, the right whereof he claims as Author — in the words following, to wit: " Views or Louisiana; together with a journal OF A VOYAGE UP THE MISSOURI RIVER, IN 1811. By H. M- Bkackenridge, Esq." In conformity to the Act of the Congress of the United States, intituled, " An Act for the encouragement of Learning, by securing the copies of Maps, Charts and Books, to the Authors and Proprietors of such copies during the times therein mentioned." — And also to the Act, entitled, " An Act supplementary to an Act, entitled, " An Act for the encouragement of Learning, by securing the copies of Maps, Charts and Books, to the Authors and Proprietors of such copies during the times therein mentioned," and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of designing, engraving, and etching historical and other prints."

Lfj a . J* — / i D. CALDWELL, CLERK Os JBE DISJKifT OP PENNSYLVANIA I 4. .:.--, S'^. TO THE HEADER. IN the springof 1810, 1 landed at New Madrid in Upper Louisiana, and proceeded from thence by land to St. Genevieve, with the intention of settling myself in some part of the territory as a lawyer. But finding after a short residence, that prospects of success in that part of the world, were not such as I could have wished, I resolved to em ploy the time I should remain there, in making observations and remarks on such things as appeared most worthy of attention. I was in a short time, pleased with the employment, which drew me into a more extensive research than I liad at first contemplated, and gave rise to a degree of earnestness in a pursuit, to which I had before been almost a stranger; my studies having been chiefly directed to abstract subjects, to history, belles lettres, and to those in some way connected with my profession.

In the winter of 1811, I published at St. Louis, the capital of Upper Louisiana, a series of essays descriptive of the country, many of which were reprinted in periodical papers in the states, and spoken of in terms of approbation. It were needless to declare how gratifying this was to my feelings, or, as the reader will choose to think, to my vanity In the heyday of youth, when the mind is filled with romantic conceits, there is nothing so pleasant as this taste of fame. It i3 however, some times productive of dangerous effects, for where this first manifesta tion of applause, does not intoxicate the brain and paralize the ener gies, causing the infatuated being to believe, that he has already arrived at the highest degree of earthly honors, it is apt to confirm one in that pursuit, where accident may have crowned him with success. — Hence, I have been in no small dunger of becoming an author, perhaps an indifferent one : a professed author in c^ir country, alas ! is pitiable in deed.

Chapter I. Discovery, And First Settlement Of Louisiana

A HE early history of nearly all the colonies planted by Eu ropean nations, on this continent, presents us with a series of hardships and misfortunes, encountered by the first settlers, and of injudicious management by those entrusted with their super intendence. From these Louisiana in its first settlement was by no means exempt, on the contrary they were all experienced here, in the severest manner. It was not until after repeated failures, and the lapse of a century, from the first attempt, that a colony could take root, and not for half a century more that it could flourish. It is intended in this imperfect sketch, to pass those events in review, and as far as in the writer's power, to de velope their causes. The Spaniards from their establishments in Cuba, and in Mexico, at an early period became acquainted with the continent lying opposite the island before mentioned, and had given it the name of Florida.

Under this name, they comprehended and claimed, east of the province of Penuco, indefinitely, north, east, and south ; and declared that all the French and English posses,* sions in America, belonged to Florida, and were unjust usurpa tions on the dominions appertaining to the crown of Spain.* They * Kerrof Kerrslands Memoirs, 1727 — History of European Settle ments an. 1775, and Postlethwayte on Commerce, published in 1745.—- Don Andres Gonzales de Boreca. B were, however, by no means the first to take possession, or to explore it. Tlie liberal gift of Pope Alexander the sixth, of all the new world, might be supposed to supersede the necessity of such formalities. It is true, that some adventurers in the hopes of discovering in this unexplored region, kingdoms of civilized Indians, and fired by the success of Cortez, penetrated into the country now called Louisiana, but were deplorably unsuccessful.

These ad venturers the better to obtain followers, had artfully circulated a story, suited to the superstition of the age, that in this country, there existed a miraculous fountain, possessing the desirable qualities of restoring youth, or rendering it perpetual to him who should be so fortunate as to bathe himself in its enchanted waters. The Spanish expeditions had not for their object the taking possession of a wilderness, thinly peopled, by wandering Indians, of populating and improving it, but to plunder the natives of the gold and silver they were supposed to possess : nor did the world, or even they, become better acquainted with the country in consequence of their expeditions. Pontib de Leon, was the first adventurer. In 1512, he penetrated Florida, at the head of a considerable party, ostensibly in pursuit of the before mentioned fountain ; but his stay was short, he did not even build a fort, the natives considering him as an invader, and opposing him with great ferocity.

Thus Pontio, and such of his men as survived returned home, worn out with the hardships sustained in the expedition.* In 1520, Vasques de Ay lion, landed and explored the neighbourhood of a river which he called the Jourdan, in that part of Florida which is now South Caroli na ; but his stay was not long and his success no better than that of Pontio de Leon. A fe w years after this, Pamphile de Narvaes, obtained from the emperor Charles the fifth, the government of Florida. Narvaes coasted along the northern shore of the gulph of Mexico, landed several times, had frequent rencoun ters with the Indians, who killed many of his people, and dt length perished miserably himself without having even built a son. • History of European Settlements, DISCOVERY & SETTLEMENT—

Book I

11 Hernandes de Soto, being afterwards made captain-general of Florida, in the year 1539 at the head of eight or nine hundred men landed in this country ami penetrated a considerable dis tance into the interior. He continued for several years wandering in search of gold, of civilized Indians, and of miraculous foun tains ; in the mean time he was much harassed by the natives, his party was divided and dispersed in small bands, the greater part of which, were never afterwards heard of, and finally de Soto himself died on the banks of the Mississippi.* The unhap py issue of these successive expeditions, entirely dissuaded ad venturers from any further attempt, until establishments were formed -by the French. In the year 1523, Verazzani, an Italian mariner, in the ser vice of France, had discovered Florida, but had not attempted any settlement.

This discovery was not followed up by the French, owing to the almost total inattention to America, during the troubled reigns of Francis II, and of Charles IX. The celebrated Coligny, desirous of obtaining freedom of religious worship, for the persecuted sect to which he belonged, conceived the idea of going in search of the country discovered by Verazzani, and of planting a colony of protestants : a scheme rather encouraged by the king who was desirous of chasing off the Hugonots. He cast his eye upon that part of Florida, which Verazzani, had described as most suitable for the establishment of a colony ; for besides the mildness of the climate, and the fertility of the soil, he fan cied the French would find no one to dispute their right or even to trouble them. Jean de Ribaut being chosen by the admiral to undertake the expedition, set off the 18th of February 1562.

He first touched at a place which he called Cape Francois, about the 30°, of N. lat. and turning to the right he perceived a short dine after, a river which he named la riviere des Dauphins, hut * In the account of this expedition by Herrera, it is menl ioned that de Soto in 1541 reached Mavilla, anlndiantown enclosed with wo ider. walls. He had an engagement there m which 2000 natives were killed and 83 Spaniards, who also lost 45 horses. An Indian village named Chicaca was burnt. See Aiaer. ann 1. vol. 91— A tradition prevailed amongst the Kaskaskia Indians of their having slain the first white men they had ever seen— this might have been one of de Soto's parties. did not enter. Pursuing this course, at the distance of fifteen leagues he discovered another river and entered it on the first of May, from which circumstance he gave it the name of la riviere de Mai.

Here he found a great number of savages, by whom, from that conciliatory policy, which the French have so suc cessfully pursued towards these people, he was well received: reciprocal presents were made, to tlie great satisfaction of the Indians. But having in view the river Jourdan, he has tened his departure from this place, hut not without having •first erected a pillar on which were engraven the arms of France, and taking possession of the country in the name of the king and of the admiral ; a vain and idle ceremony. He after wards gave to the rivers which he successively discovered for sixty leagues, the names of French rivers, and at length cast an chor in what he supposed tbe Jourdan, but which was called afterwards by the Spaniards, St. Cruz, and by the natives Shawa no,* at present Savana.

Ribaut at this place built a fort which he called Fort Charles; the Indians manifested tbe greatest friend 8hip. Leaving here the persons who had accompanied him Jc-r the purpose of establishing a colony, he took his depar ture. Unfortunately the direction and government of it, were re signed to a person no ways capable. He soon manifested great im prudence, and tlie most ferocious severity. The colony in a short time, suffered severely from famine, and a complication of miseries : and were at length compelled to leave the country and endeavor to regain their native land, in a vessel built by them under the most discouraging circumstances. It is indeed strange, how men can be induced voluntarily to tear themselves from the bosom osa refined and civilized society, retire to a wilderness and become the neighbours of savages..

B»t the sweet and cheering hope of regaining their native soil, af ter having acquired a competency, has been found never to aban don the emigrants from France. Even the powerful incentive of religious freedom, was not sufficient alone. The belief that eve- *The Shawane?e Indians were originally from Georgia; they exchang ed their country with the Cherokees for that on the Cumberland river from whence they were afterwards driven by the same people across the Ohio. DISCOVERY &* SETTLEMENT—

BOOK I.

13 ry part of America was equally rich in mines of precious metals, will account both for the readiness with which adventurers, em barked in colonizing enterprises, and the ill success of the first attempts; for instead of cultivating the earth, the greater part of their time was spent in running about in search of gold and silver. The admiral, not discouraged by the failure of this attempt, soon succeeded in preparing another armament, consisting of three vessels provided with every thing which might be requir ed by a young colony, and gave the command to Rene de Lau damere. Fifty thousand crowns were advanced to this expedition by the king. Several gentlemen of fortune, and young per sons of family were desirous of making this voyage at their own expense ; and there were joined to it some detachments of sol diers chosen from among the veteran corps.

On the 26th of June 1564, he entered the Dauphin river, but did not land, to the great regret of the Indians who appeared disposed to receive them in the most friendly manner. He continued his course to the May river where he landed, ascended some distance, and, being well received by the natives, commenced an establishment. Notwithstanding all these advantages, and flattering auspices, the same fate attended this colony as the first. The colonists were soon earned away by the delusion of searching after gold. This became almost a mania, and was taken advantage of by a neighbouring Paraousti, who succeeded in drawing them into a war with his enemies, a powerful tribe. This chief perceiving the thirst after gold and silver which prevailed, exhibited some pieces of silver, and informed that he had procured them from his enemies, who had the same metal in abundance.

The colony now began to feel the usual calamities, from dissension, famine from neglect of tillage, and at the same time an Indian war which they had unjustly provoked. In this state they at length came to the resolution of re-embarking, when osa sudden, to the general surprise, seven brigantines, appeared in the river. It proved to be Ribaut who had brought succors to the colony. About this time the attempt of France to colonize Florida, be came known in Spain, who claimed the country in virtue of the Pope's bull, jind the particular discoveries of Pontio de Leon ami the other adventurers. Pedro de Menendez, was immediately despatched by that monarchy lo establish a colony and to drive away the French. The armament, might be considered for that period, and for the occasion, a formidable one, consisting of ten vessels and upv/ards of two thousand men.

Before he could reach the place of his destination, a storm arose, which dispersed and scattered his ships, so that he only arrived with five. These were attacked by some English vessels then at the mouth of the river, and compelled to fall down to the Dauphin river, which they entered, giving it the name of St. Augustin ; here they commenced an establishment. In the mean while Ribaut, contrary to the advice of his officers, embarked nearly all his force, in order to attack and destroy the Spanish fleet, and left but sixty or seventy men in sus fort.* Ribaut could only come in sight of the Spaniards when a dreadful tempest drove him off the coast. The Spanish commander, rightly conjecturing that the greater part of the garrison had been embarked on this occasion, resolved to march over by land and storm the fort.

This he did in five days after his discovering the English squadron, and suoceeded completely, meeting in fact with but little or no resistance : Mons. Laudamere and a few soldiers only escaped. This achievment honorable in its commencement, was however wound up by one of those acts of barbarity, which causes humanity to shudder even when related of the most ferocious savages, and which stamps infamy and shame on civilized men ; the prisoners who surrendered, and the miserable fugitives, who were afterwards caught, were hung upon a tree, on which was suspended this sentence, worthy of that bigotry, " whose forces are congregated from the abysses of hell :" not as Frenchmen, but as heretics and ENEMIES OF GOD. Menendez, giving the name of St. Matteo, to the fort he had taken, left a garrison in it, and returned to St. Augustin Ribaut at the same time paid dearly for his imprudence, being ship-wreck ed on the Bahama banks, he attempied with the remainder of his forces to regain the fort by land.

Having approached it after in credible hardships, he learned that it was in the possession of the Spaniards. One of his officers was sent with proposals, and * It had been called Fort Charles. DISCOVERY & SETTLEMENT.—

BOOK I.

it was solemnly agreed on both sides, that the commander of the fort, should supply them with a vessel to return to France ; but he no sooner got these unfortunate people in his power, than re gardless of humanity and justice, he caused them to be barba rously butchered. Such is the tragic fate of these early colonies ; the story is related by Charlevoix, with minute detail, in his loose and ram bling way. This writer expresses the strongest indignation at tlie abominable and atrocious conduct of the Spaniards, and de nies in the strongest terms that Spain ever had any just right to this country. France and Spain were at this moment in profound peace, nor does this outrage, seem in the least to have excited the in dignation of the former, owing to the circumstance of the unfortunate victims having been protestants and heretics.

But it was, left to a private gentleman, to avenge the indignity offered to his country, and to chastise the barbarous usurpers of Florida. This was the Chevalier de Gourgues a man who in those limes had distinguished himself in various countries for that romantic va lour, which was then so highly esteemed ; the indignation which he felt for the insult offered his country was heightened by a sense of personal wrongs, having been for many years confined in Spanish prisons. Under pretence of forming an expedition to Africa, he raised at his own expense and with the assistance of his friends, a considerable armament and steered for Florida. On his arrival he was joined by the Indians who had become greatly dissatisfied with the Spaniards, stormed St. Matteo, and carri ed it with little difficulty.

The greater part of the garrison was killed in the assault, the remainder were taken to the same tree on which the French had been hanged, and in the execution of a severe but not unjust retaliation, served in the same manner, the former inscription being replaced by one to this effect — not AS SPANIARDS, BUT AS MURDERERS AND CUT-THROATS, Having destroyed the fort, and completed the object ot his expedition, he soon after embarked ; St. Augustin was considered as too formidable for his party. The attention of France seems to have been altogether with drawn from this quarter of the continent, during an interval of many years : being at this time chiefly occupied with her settle*, ments in Canada, which had begun to flourish. St. Augustin and all Florida were about the same time abandoned by the Spaniards.

About the year 1671, it was known in Canada, from the in formation of Indians, that there was a great river to the west of New France, which neither flowed to the east nor to the north.* It was thought, it must either discharge itself into the gulph of Mexico or into the south sea ; and it therefore became a matter of importance that this should be ascertained. Frontenac the governor of Canada, accordingly sent the priest Marquette, with a trader named Joliet, accompanied by three or four men to explore this river. These persons ascend ed the river of the Foxes, crossed to the Ouisconsing, which they descended to the Mississippi. They sailed down this river discovering some considerable tributary streams, the chief of which, the celebrated Missouri, was named by the Indians Pe kitanoni. A few leagues below it, they found three large Indian villages of Illinois t Little was done towards the further discovery of this region, until it was undertaken by the enterprising La Salle.

This gentleman having descended the Mississippi in company with the Chevalier Tonti, discovered the mouth of the river, returned with a fixed resolution of attempting further discoveries, and of establishing a colony. He succeeded in obtaining a considerable force from the king of France and about the year 1 684, set sail from la Rochelle. But according to Charlevoix, from an unfortunate severity of temper which often produced acts very ill-timed, and from an over-weening confidence in his own abilities and resources, which led him to treat the opinions of others with * Charlevoix. f The decrease of these people is astonishingly great. The Illinois in the recollection of the whites could bring eight or ten thousand warriors into the field. Shortly after the discovery of the Mississippi, a missiona ry who went to establish himself amongst the Miamies, found three thousand warriors preparing for a war party. The Onlogamies were reckoned at a thousand families. DISCOVERY & SETTLEMENT.—

BOOK I.

17 contempt, he soon became the object of dislike to all. This was the cause of his ultimate failure. He passed by the mouth of the river which he sought, though it was seen by every person on board the ships ; and persisted with such obstinacy that he would hot even listen to proposals, of going with a boat to examine. It seems that from theoretic notions he had placed it further south. He arrived at the bay of St. Bernard, and now discovered his er ror, but too late, for the naval commandel*, became as obstinate as himself, positively refused to return, and set him on shore with all his men and equipments. La Salle, built a fort at this place, and in a short time afterwards set out for the Mississippi, but was assassinated by his own people, before he could reach it. His whole company, with the exception of three or four persons Who reached Canada, finally perished, being either destroyed by the Indians or taken prisoners by the Spaniards and condemned to the mines.

The colonization of the Mississippi was not abandoned. In the year 1698, Mons. D'lberville, a gentleman of considerable note in his day, as a naval commander and intrepid adventurer, was sent with two ships in company with M. Chateaumorand to explore and settle the mouth of that mighty river. In 1699, he arrived at the bay of Pensacol***,, where three hundred Spaniards had lately landed, having been sent from Vera Cruz, for the purpose of forming a Colony. D'lberville sent to them to request permission to water, but was refused. Continuing his route, he entered the Mobile, which at that time afforded a fine harbor, but which was afterwards choked Up by sand during a tempest. The first place at which he land ed was an island, L'isle de Massacre (so named from the mangled bodies of Indians which first struck his sight, apparently butch ered in a Wanton manner,) but which was afterwards called the Isle of Dauphin.

D'lberville from this island proceeded to the main land, and afterwards, accompanied by a number of his men, to the Mississippi; which being discovered, he returned to hi3 vessels, entered and ascended the river a considerable distance, arid erected a fort. He afterwards ascended as fur as the Nat chez, with which place he was so much pleased, that he conceit ed the idea of building a city there, to be named Rosali, c The Mississippi was at this time called St. Louis, the name given to it by La Salle, but the country on both sides of it was still known by the name of Florida; D'lberville was the first to change it, to that of Louisiana. About this period two English vessels arrived in search of the Mississippi, induced by the glowing descriptions of Father Hennepin, who had ascended, or pretended to have ascended, this river to its source.

One of these vessels entered the river but did not attempt to land, or form any settlement. It appeared that this country was also claimed by Britain, from the discoveries of Sebastian Cabot, who sailed along the coast, without land ing any where, and also by another title even more absurd than the Pope's bull, to wit, in virtue of her own Charters.* Thus had our infant French colony to contend with two great powers, one jealous of supposed encroachments, and the other envious of any new scheme of colonization on this continent. M. D'lberville left Louisiana in 1700; the colony was very inconsiderable and far from advancing rapidly. The principal settlement was at the Isle of Dauphin, noway suited to the purpose. It, however, still continued to live until the year 1712, receiving occasional supplies from France and maintaining a good understanding with the Spanish colony of Pensacola; they seem to have forgotten former animosities and frequently rendered each other mutual assistance.

The Indians were also conciliated and lived in friendship with the colonists. In this year the commerce and government of Louisiana, was granted to Crosat who had two objects in view, the discovery of mines in the Illinois, and the trade with Mexico. In both these he completely failed. About this time the Natchez first began to display that enmity to the French, (occasioned perhaps by the injudicious conduct of the officers who commanded the different posts within the country) which afterwards proved so fatal to themselves. The gold and silver mines of the Illinois could not be discovered ; and St. Denys, an active and enterprising indivi- * See Marshall's Life of Washington and Bozman's History of Ma ryland. MSQOVERY & SETTLEMENT.—

BOOK I.

19 -dual who had been sent by land to obtain permission of trading from the viceroy, returned without success. St. Denys was af terwards despatched to build a fort at the Natchitoches, in order to prevent the Spaniards from encroaching in that quarter! About the same time they made a settlement at the Assinais.* Crosat not obtaining those profits, from his grant of the ex* elusive trade of Louisiana which were expected, gave up his pri vilege to the king in 1717, before the term of its duration had expired. The famous company of Law, had been formed, which by degrees engrossed the whole commerce within and without the kingdom of France ; this company under the name of " the Company of the Indies," took possession of Louisiana, and ap pointed Mons. Bienville governor of the colony. This gentle man was welcomed at the Isle of Dauphin by the deputies of twenty-five Indian nations; he commenced an establishment but had been here but a short time when a hurricane completely closed up the port.

M. Bienville, then chose the position, where the city of New Orleans now stands, and nearly all the settlers of the Isle of Dauphin removed to Beloxi.t In 1719, war broke out between France and Spain; and put an end to the friendly intercourse which had existed between the two colonies. Pensacola was taken ; the company having seized the opportunity of the breach between the two nations, of making itself master of the only port, on all the northern coast of Florida, from the Bahama banks to the Mississippi. The Spa niards, after this event, mortified .and chagrined at the loss, made great preparations for retaking the place, and for the total des truction of the French colony. They succeeded in retaking Pen sacola but in their attack on the Isle of Dauphin were repulsed ; shortly after which, a squadron under the command of M. Champlain, made its appearance, and the siege of Pensacola was once more undertaken.

Bienville was ordered to come in a sloop, with the soldiers and volunteers of the Company, to the river Perdido, in order to meet and unite with their Indian allies, who * According to La Harpe even this settlement was made by St. Denys, ■•vho brought the Spaniards from the interior for the purpose. t Charlevoix— Du Pratz— Postlethwayte. were there ready to join them. Tlie fort was invested by sea and land, and in a short time compelled to surrender at discretion. In the year 1721, peace was concluded between the two powers ; one of-the articles of the treaty was the restoration of Pen eacola: about the same time the council general ordered the es tablishments of the Beloxi to be removed to New Orleans. At this period violent dissentions prevailed in the colony ; a great proportion of the colonists were persons of the most worthless and despicable class ; these dissentions were in some measure fomented by the English of Carolina, who were at the same time in the habit of exciting the Indian nations.

Fortunately for the French the Choctaws then the most powerful nation were generally faithful to them ; these people more than once saved the in fant colony of Louisiana from total destruction. This was parti cularly shewn in the wars with the Natchez. In the year 1729 in consequence of a plot formed with great art and finesse, for the general massacre of the whites, the colony narrowly escaped destruction ; the settlements at Natchez and at the Yazoo were entirely destroyed.* The discovery was made by the mother of the principal Sun, or chief, who delayed and in a great measure*)! frustrated its execution. The mode agreed on by the nations in the plot, and who were at a distance from each other, in differerTt parts of the colony, in order to secure concert in striking the blow on the same day, was a bundle of rods of the same number, de posited with each.