Across the Continent: a summer's journey to the Rocky Mountains, the Mormons, and the Pacific States, with Speaker Colfax

Front matter

Iiij>m*f *±*m irtit-j '- './w 7*.. ..,.••.-. s •■i''i,'iivl. /'./..- hr-i H GolMmrmti >» th,. . ZvAi •>//.,,■ ../■//,.. diatrioi short <>rt/,.-r \ /,.,,/..■ v /." M**W/**rW*** Across the Continent: A SUMMER'S JOURNEY TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, THE MORMONS, AND THE PACIFIC STATES, WITH SPEAKER CO^AX. By SAMUEL BOWLES, Editor of The Springfield (Mass.) Republican. SPRINGFIELD, MASS. . SAMUEL BOWLES & COMPANY. NEW YORK : HURD & HOUGHTON. I 86S. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1865, by SAMUEL BOWLES & COMPANY, In the Clerk's Office of the Districtj^urt for the District of Massachusi^Lj, SAMUEL BOWLES AND COMPANY, Printers and Binders. Introductory Letter TO THE Hon. SCHUYLER COLFAX, Speaker of the United States House of Representatives My Dear Mr. Colfax : — It was so pleasant and so profitable to travel with you during the summer, — your amiability and your popularity so readily unlocked all mysteries, and made aHfpaths so straight ; even Nature gave kinder welcome to your progress than her wont ; that I would fain go along with you still farther, and ensure by your presence summer skies for this story of our observations, this record of our experiences.

Besides, the book is more yours than mine. Your friend ship gave me the opportunity for the travel ; your favoring thought first suggested to me the then strange idea that the Letters should be put together into a volume ; and your wide and close observation and your quick insight helped me to much of the material and the statistic. So I may rightly claim the favor of your name, and the charm of your company, in this new and unexpected trip into au thor-land. You know how strange it seemed to us that our party were almost the first who had ever traveled Across the Continent simply to see the country, to study its resources, to learn its people and their wants, and to acquit ourselves more intelligently, thereby, each in our duties to the public, — you in the Government, and we as jour- INTRODUCTORY LETTER nalists.

How strange, too, the idea was to the people along our route. They could not well believe that we did not come on a selfish mission of some sort ; some secret governmental service ; to see how they could best be taxed; to locate the Pacific Railroad; to make a bargain with the Mormons ; to regulate the politics of the distant States,— at least to speculate in mines, and buy corner lots. When the fact was realized, while the many felt gratified and flattered, and showed such feeling in a hospitality that had no measure, there were some, you remember, who could not repress the genuine American contempt for whatever is not tangible and real and money-making ; and I am afraid we passed in not a few minds for what, in mining vernacular, are known as "bummers." So I could hardly realize, until I examined the subject, that there was in our literature no connected and complete account of this great Western Half of our Continent.

Letter I. Pick

FROM MASSACHUSETTS TO THE MISSOURI.— The Railroad Ride behind; the Stage Ride before — Spanning the Continent — Vitality of Men of the West — The Chicago Wigwam five years ago: History since — Cleveland and Chicago, and their new Life — Atehison and its History and its Position — Pomeroy and Stringfellow — The Trade over the Plains — Speaker Colfax and his party for the Overland Journey — The Indians break the Line — Senator Foster and the Indian Question — Agriculture in the West — Coach off: Good-bye, . . 1

Letter II. From The Missouri To The Platte

— Atchison to Fort Kearney through Kansas and Nebraska — General Connor and no Indians — The "Galvanized YaDkee" Soldiers — How we Rode — The Country and its Fascinations — The Scenery and the Atmosphere — The Modern Caravans on the Plains — A Storm of Thunder and Lightning and Hail, and how we weathered it, 10

Letter III. Through The Plains To The Rocky Mountains

— A continuous five days' Stage Ride— The Plains the great National Pasture—The Platte River— Climate and Soil— Natural Highway across the Continent— A natural Road-bed— Population of the Region- How we Fared— Prices on the Plains and at Denver— "The noble Red Man," and our Preparations for him— Life and Death on the Plains — The Prairie Dogs and their Companions— The Alkali Water—Parting Breakfast with General Connor at Julesburg— His Position and History— Reception at Denver, 18

Letter IV. The Rocky Mountains And Their Gold Mines

— A Week among the Mountains and in the Mines— The. Switzerland of America—Long's Peak and Pike's Peak— Bierstadt's " Storm in the Rocky Mountains "—Theater of the Gold Development on Clear Creek— P.IOE. Central City, Black Hawk, Nevada-Condition and Prospects of the Business— Mysteries of the Sulphurites— Speculating Companies— The Gold Production of Colorado-Reports from Idaho and Mon taua-The United States the Treasury of the World-Questions of the Future, S0

Letter V. Of Persons

NOT THINGS.— Reception in Colorado— Grand Gala Supper to Mr. Colfax— Pen Portraits of the Party: Mr. Colfax, Governor Bross, Mr. Richardson, Mr. Otis— Social Life in the Rocky Mountains— The Young Men and the Young Women— Ben Holladay and his Stages— Famous Rides across the Plains, 43

Letter VI. Sunday In The Mountains

— Broad Church in the West— Mr. "Lo, the poor Indian" — A Day and a Night at Virginia Dale; its Scenery and its Landlady — Colorado and its People — Movement for State Government— A Mining Story : General Fitz John Porter, Smith and Parmelee, Judge Harding— Lack of "Help" in the Homes — The Blossoming of Eastern Fashions— Lack of Horticulture— Necessity of Irrigation— Canned Fruits and Vegetables — Prices of Food in Colorado and Montana— Vernacular of the Mountains, 56

Letter VII. From Denver To Salt

LAKE— THROUGH THE ROCKY MOUN- TAINS.— The Indians in our Path— Robberies and Murders on the Stage Line— What shall be done with them? — The Quaker Policy versus General Connor's Policy — Our Escape and our Faith — Wild Game on the Route: Antelopes, Elk, Trout, Bears, Sage Hens, etc. — The Desert of the Mountains— The Sage Brush— The Bitter Creek Country — Through Bridger's Pass to the Pacific Slopes— A Night Ride over the Pass— The Curious Architecture of Winds and Sands — The "Church Butte," and its Wonders— Fort Bridger— Arrival at Great Salt Lake City, 67

Letter VIII. The Way Into Utah

: RECEPTION BY THE MORMONS.— Basin of the Great Salt Lake — The Home of the Mormons — Their Triumphs— Ride among the Wasatch Mountains— Playing Snowball among Flowers — Yellow the Favorite Color of Nature— Echo Canyon: its Beauties and its Ruins — The Valley of the Jordan — The City of Salt Lake: its Location and its Promise— Mr. Colfax's Reception by Soldier and Saint — The Hospitality of the Mormons — Excursion to Great Salt Lake — Strawberries and a Mormon Harem — Interview with Brigham Young: How he Looked and Acted— Heber C. Kimball, Dr. Bernhisel and other Church' Elders— The Anti Mormons, or Gentiles, and what they are Doing— Death of Governor Doty,

Letter IX. Page

MORMON MATERIALITIES.— Irrigation and its Results— The Salt Lake City Gardens — Wonderful Crops of Grain— The Mysteries of Great Salt Lake — Extent of the Mormon Settlements — Navigation of the Colorado River— Supplies for Utah by that Route — Policy of the Mormons as to Agriculture and Mines — The Silver Mines in Utah— The Soldiers at Work on Them— Visit to Rush Valley and Stockton, 89

Letter X. Salt Lake City And Life There

— The Chief Commercial City of the Mountains, and the Watering-Place of the Continent — Its Hot Sulphur Springs, and its Salt Lake: their Characteristics and their Uses — The Present Status of the City — Profits of its Merchants — Prices of Goods there — Dinner Party at a Mormon Merchant's — Brigham Young's Theater — A Special Dramatic Performance — Brigham Young on "a Good Thing," , 98

Letter XI

«■ THE POLYGAMY QUESTION.— Our Opportunities for Studying the Mormons — Testimony from all Interests and Parties — Conclusions — Mormonism not necessarily Polygamy — The Latter sure to fall Before the Progress of Democracy — Present Duty of the Government towards the Question — Most of the Federal Officers in the Territory Polygamists — An Important Distinction — Conversation with Brigham Young on Polygamy — Points of the Discussion — Suggestion of anew Revelation against Polygamy — Views of Young as to Slavery and the Rebels — A Sardonic Face, 105

Letter XII. The Mormon Wives

: OUR LAST DAY IN SALT LAKE CITY.— The Mormon Women and Polygamy — How they Lire Together — The Children and the Schools— The Soldiers Stealing the Surplus Wives — Neglect of their Poor by the Mormons — Character of the Mormon Church Audiences — Services at the Tabernacle — Preaching by Brigham Young — Their Religion a Coarse Materialism — Mr. Colfax's Eulogy on President Lincoln— Elections in Utah — Judge Kinney and Captain Hooper — Good-Bye to Salt Lake, 114

Letter XIII. Social Life Among The Mormons

— The Cross Relationships of Polygamy — Brigham Young's Wives — Going to Heaven by the Coat-Tails of the Men— Wives the Reward of Merit— Polygamy "a good thing" for Poor Men — Brigham Young's Retinue— No Handsome Women among the Mormons — Brigham Young's Children— The Soldiers and the Mormons — General Connor and Brigham Young— Porter Rockwell, the Avenger — The Movement towards the Sandwich Islands, INDEX TO CONTENTS.

Letter XIV

PiM. THE RIDE THROUGH THE SAGE BRUSH AND THE GREAT BASIN.— The Great Desert Basin of Utah and Nevada, and its Characteristics—A Quick Stage Ride through its Alkali Dust and over its: Mountains— The Taint of the Alkali— Experiences of the Ride— Greeley and Hank Monk— Problems as to the Culture of this Region—Its Redeeming Beauties in Mountains, in Atmosphere, and in Exhilarating Breeze 131

Letter XV. The Silver Mines Of Nevada

: AUSTIN AND VIRGINIA CITY.— Nevada the Child of California— Austin : its Location; its Soeial and Material Development — Classics in a Cellar — The Silver Mines in and about Austin — Character of the Ore — Mills — Improvements and Expenses — New Mining Discoveries — Virginia and its History and Mines— The Famous Comstock Ledge— The Gould & Curry Mine, and its Statistics — Its Superintendent, Mr. Charles L. Strong — The Ophir, Savage, Empire, Yellow Jacket, and other Mines — Cost and Profit of the Virgioia Ores — Number of Quartz Mills on the Comstock Ledge — California's Account with Nevada — Conclusions as to the Nevada Mines — Advice to Capitalists — A Rhode Island Example in Colorado — Doubtful Things Very Uncertain — Profanity Discouraged, 141

Letter XVI. The Continent Across

— The Ride over the Sierras— The Great Ride Finished — Still the same Republic, the same Flag — Wonderful Homogeneity of the American People — The Civilization of San Francisco and the Pacific Coast — The Material Prospects of City and Country — The Last Day in Nevada — Valleys of the Truckee, Washoe, and Carson — Steamboat Springs — Reception at Carson City — The . Sierra Nevadas and their Beauties — Lake Tahoe — The Stage Ride over the Mountains from Lake Tahoe to Placerville — Hard and Watered Roads and Fast Horses— First Views of California Life, . . 159

Letter XVII. Overland To Oregon

— A Pleasant Revelation in Oregon— The Overland Ride from California— Up the Sacramento Valley— Chico — General Bidwell and his Farm— Red Bluffs and the Family of John Broivn— The Trinity, Klamath, Rogue, and Umpqua Rivers — Shasta andYreka— The Tower House and its Proprietor— Mount Shasta and its Snow Fields — Jacksonville and its Gold Diggings — Pilot Knob — The Forests— Pines and Firs— Oak Groves— The Mistletoe and the Spanish Moss— Joe Lane and Jesse Applegate— Farming in the Umpqua Valley— Entrance to the Willamette Valley— Its Agricultural Wealth and its Rural Beauties— The Agriculture of Oregon— The Rains— The Summers and the Winters— The Towns and the People of the Willamette Valley— Portland : its Location and its Importance, .

Letter XVIII

pA(J1 THE COLUMBIA RIVER: ITS SCENERY AND ITS COMMERCE.— The Reach.and Importance of the Columbia — Its Breach Through the Continental Mountains— Fort Vancouver and its History— General Grant as Remembered Here — The Cascades— The Dalles— The Scenery of Mountain and River — Steamboats on the Upper Columbia—A Bit of Private Fun— The Scenery of the Columbia as compared with the Hudson, the Rhine and the Upper Mississippi- Mount Hood— The Great Mountain of Oregon— The Highest Peaks of the United States— The Oregon Steam Navigation Company— Its Rise, Progress and Purposes— Oregon's Pacific Railroad Cut OS— New Route to the Carribou Country— Summing Up of Oregon— Its People and Their Promise, 184

Letter XIX. Through Washington Territory

— From Portland to Monticello by Steamer— A Rough Road— A Hard Ride through the Forests—Ferns, Blackberries and Snakes — Skookem Chuck — Olympia and Reception there — Pacific Tribute to the Stomach — Basis for a Religious Superstructure— Washington Territory— Its Name^and its Capabilities, *. . . . 198 .

Letter XX. Puget's Sound And Vancouver's Island

— Great Lumber Market for the Pacific Coast— Saw-Mills and Ships on the Sound — Victoria, and its English Features — British Taxes and Expenditures — Frazer River Gold Diggings — Prosperity of Victoria — Depot of the Hudson Bay Company — Grand Dinner to Mr. Colfax — The San Juan Boundary Question — Summer Gardens under the Perpetual Snows — The Pacific Coast Climate versus that of New England, .... 204

Letter XXI. San Francisco

: MR. COLFAX, AND HIS RECEPTION IN THE PACIFIC STATES.— Back to Frisco— Its Fascinations and its Incomparable Climate — The Town always "in the Draft" — The Loss of the Steamer Brother Jonathan— Speaker Colfax's Tour Complete — His Reception Described and Analyzed — His Speeches — The Mexican Question— His Speech at Victoria — Governor Bross and Mr. Richardson 213

Letter XXII. The Yosemite Valley And The Big Trees

— First Impressions — The Great Natural Wonders and Beauties of the Western World— Distinguishing Features of the Valley — The Verdure of the Valley— Where the Zebra and Dr. Bellows' Church were Borrowed from— Various Shapes of the Mountain Rocks — The Water-falls of the Valley — The Journey to the Yosemite — Cession of the Valley and the Big Trees to the State of California — Our Party and its Experiences— The Excursion to the Big Trees: their Size: their Age: their Beauty: their Majesty INDEX TO CONTENTS.

Letter XXIII

pid. THE CHINESE ON THE PACIFIC COAST: OUR GRAND DINNER WITH THEM.— Number of Chinese Emigrants— What they Do- Raising Vegetables— Building the Pacific Railway— Servants in Families and Gleaners in the Coal Fields— How the White Men Treat them— Their Habits— Their Religion— Their Vices— How they are to be Reformed— The Chinese versus the Irish and the African —Chinese Merchants— Their Intelligence and their Honesty— A Dinner with them — Specimen of Chinese Pigeon- English— How the Dinner Began, and how it Went On — The Chopsticks, and the Food— The Writer Rescued by the Police, and Taken Out to get "Something to Eat," 238

Letter XXIV. The Great Theme

: THE PACIFIC RAILWAY.— How its Need is Felt— Anxiety for its Construction— The Hunger for "Home"— The Condition and Prospects of the Enterprise— Where Timber and Fuel are to come from — Routes over the Rocky Mountains — From Salt Lake to the Sierra Nevadas— What the Government has Done— What the People are doing at each End— Lack of Enterprise and , Progress at the East — Superior Zeal and Progress at the West — Rival Routes over the Sierras— The Wagon Roads and their Business- Mr. T. D. Judah and his Route for the Railroad— Rapid Progre* up the Mountains — Four Thousand Chinese Laborers at Work — Five Years Long Enough to Complete the Whole Line — Appeal to the Men of the East, 255

Letter XXV. Country Excursions

: THE GEYSERS, VINEYARDS AND AGRICULTURE.— The Valleys of the Coast Range— How California is Constructed — Oakland — Fred Law Olmsted and Major Ralph W. Kirkham — The San Jose Valley and its Beauties — Excursion to the Geysers — Petaluma — Russian River Valley — Healdsburg — A Rare Whip and a Rare Drive — The Geysers Themselves — The Embodiment of Hell— The Country in the Neighborhood — Napa Valley — — Calistoga and Warm Springs — Sonoma Valley and its Vineyards— [ California Wines — Champagne the Mother's Milk in California — Facilities for Agriculture in California — Illustrative Crops, ,274

Letter XXVI. Of San Francisco

: BUSINESS MATTERS.— How San Francisco is Located— Its Sand Hills and their Fickleness— Lone Mountain Cemetery— The City Gardens— Contrasts in Business and Social Life Character of the Business Men— The Bankers— The Bank of Cali- [fornia— The Wells & Fargo Express and its Various Business— How it Rivals the Government in Carrying Letters— The Machine Shops and the Woolen Manufacturers— The Mission Woolen Mills and their Success with Chinese Labor— Cotton Manufactory and Other Industrial Enterprises — The Commerce of San Francisco ...

Letter XXVII

PA03 MINING IN CALIFORNIA: ITS VARIETIES, RESULTS. AND PROSPECTS.— Present Yield or the Mines of the Pacirio States- Processes and Progress of Gold Seeking — The Soil Washings, the Deep Diggings, and Hydraulic Mining— Great Enterprises of the Latter— The Large Results — The Waste of Nature by Mining — ** Yuba Dam" and its Anecdote — The Quartz Mining and its Status — Grass Valley — Lota Montez. and the Horse Milkman — Condition of Mining in Mariposa County — The Fremont Estate Come to Grief— General Prospects and Condition of Mining in California — The Idaho Mines —Mining in the Various States Compared— The Advantage for California — Personal Experiences in Visiting Mines — How We Went Into the Gould & Curry Mine, and How We Got Out 302

Letter XXVIII. Social Life In San Francisco

: THE WOMEN: RELIGION AND MINISTERS.— Visit to the Cliff House— The Pacific Ocean— The Seals and the Pelicans— A Ride along the Beach— The Chaos of 6ociety in San Francisco — Domination of Materialism and MasculinNm — The Women Savored with it — How the Ladies Dress — A Feminine Lunch Party— Activity in Public Morals — Education and Religion — Churches and School-houses— Ambition fur Smait Preachers—Rev. Dr. Wadsivorth, Rev. Dr. Scudder, Rev. Mr. Stebbins— The Country Parishes — Wide Field for Missionary Labor — The Pacific Railroad the Great Missionary of All— Rev. Mr. Stebbins' Views of California Life, 321

Letter XXIX. Climate And Productions

: COST OF LIVING: THE CUR- RENCY QUESTION: THE MINT— Advantage of the Pacific Climite for Invalids— Effects of the Climate upon the Race— The Fruits aod Vegetables of California, Compared with those of the East — Beauty of the California Spring — The Best Time to Visit the Pacific States — Comparative Prices of Living — The What Cheer House — Prices in the Markets— Gold and Silver the only Currency — Question of Introducing Paper Money— The Mint at San Francisco — The World's Settling House at San Francisco 335

Letter XXX. The Mining Questions Again

: GENERAL REVIEW.— A New Word of Caution to Eastern Capitalists— Speculators and Swindlers in the Field— Oiher Authority for these Views; Professor Whitney and Mr. Ashburner— Double Injury of Deception— Import-nice of the Geological Survey of California— The Superior Richness of the Colorado Gold Mines— New Mining Discoveries in California— Latest Phase of the Comstock Ledge— The Gold and Copper Mines in Arizona— Last News from Idaho— The Oil Fever of the East and the Gold Fever of the West— The Copper and Quicksilver Mines of California— The Petroleum Speculation in California— Vineyards Growing on the supposed Oil Beds, INDEX TO CONTENTS.

Letter XXXI

paoi. THE FAREWELL FESTIVITIES: POLITICS AND POLITICIANS — The Pathos of Parting— Our Final Visit in San Frunci.co— A Crowded Week— Magnificent Dinner Party— Brilliant Farewell Ball and Banquet, with Orthodox Belles and Hot Beel Teapolitics of the Pacific States— Ttieir Rescue from Secession -Then Affiliation with the Union Party— Governors Blaisdell, Lowejjnd Gr'bs— Senators Stewart and Conness— T. Starr King's opporti nity— liis Sacred Fame on the Pacific Coast— The California Con.jressnen— Large Emigration of Rebels from Missouri to Oregon— Anecdote of Senator Nesmith of Oregon— Pacific Loyalty a Passion, and its Intolerance—The Indians of the Pacific States— The Indian Question Briefly Summed Up— The Slang Phrases of the Coast- A Parting Word for California and her Sister States, 358

Letter XXXII. The Voyage Home By Steamship And The Isthmus

— , An Unique Sea Trip— Your Companions on the Voy age — 'sue Accommodations and Food on the Steamer— The Crowd— The Mixture— The Babies — Down the Coast on Smooth Seas and in Sig! t of Land — Tropical Weather and its Effects— Stopping at Acapulco — The Town and its Mexican Inhabitants — The Evening on Shore— Interview with Genei-al Alvarez— Poor Prospects for Mexican Indeperdence — The Bartering for Fruits and Shells— Down the Coast Again— Guatemala ami its Volcanoes— San Salvador and Nicaragua — Anival at Panama — Scenes in the Harbor — Burial of one of our Passengers — Day Upon the Isthmus — Panama and its Idiosyncrasies— The Railroad Across the Isthmus — The Ride and its Tropical Revelations — The Natives and their Nudity— Ch-gres River and the Isthmus Fever— Aspinwall and its Barrenness— The Steamship Servicon the Atlantic Side— A Fortunate Run to New York— The Trip Sum. ued Up— The Pacific Mail Steamship Company and its new Career — Prices of Passage— The Moral Unhealth of the Crowd on the Steamers— The Summer Journey Ended: Its Limits Revieived: Its Triumphs Stated: Its Results Measured, SUPPLEMENTARY PAPERS. '• PAGE.

THE MORMONS.— Their Present Attitude towards the Government- Defense of Polygamy — A Specimen of Mormon Preaching— The Emigration of 1865 891 II. MINES AND MINING.— The Mines in Montana— The Uncertainties of Mining, by Professor Whitney— The Mining Laws and their Operation, by Mr. Charles Allen of Boston— How the Metal is Extracted from the Reese River Quartz, by Mr. Allen — Eastern Investment in Reese River Mines — General Rosecrans on the Mines of Nevada, . . 399 III. MR. COLFAX'S SPEECHES.— Mr. Lincoln's Message to the Minors, at Central City, Colorado— The Respective Duties of Government and People : Suggestions to the Mormons, at Great Salt Lake City — The Mines nDd their Taxation, at Virginia City. Nevada — The Pacific Railroad, at Virginia City. Nevada— The Republic and Peace: The Mexican Question, at San Francisco — California's Past and Future, at San Francisco — America and Britain, at Victoria, Vancouver's Island— Farewell Speech, at Parting Banquet in San Francisco, . . . 40S IV.

IDAHO AND ITS MINES: With an Account op the Ovebund Jiltinet from Oregon to Salt Lake Citt. — Up the Columbia — Walla Walla — Over the Blue Mountains— The Grand Ronde Valley — The Upper Snake River — Thomas 4 Racket's Stage Line, and its Proprietors — Idaho Territory— Boise City — Idaho City — The Various Gold Diggings — South Boise — Owyhee— Illustrations of Mining Life — The Great Falls of Snake River— Road Agents— Sage Plains— Salt Lake, 418 v. THE YOSEMITE VALLEY.— Tt3 Marvels and its Beauties, Scientifically Described, by Professor J. D. Whitney, 429 VI. THE BIG TREES— The Grove In Calaveras County— Exact Measurements of some of the Largest Trees— The Species and the Name, . 438 VII. CALIFORNIA'S WEALTH.— Statistics from an Agricultural Address by Dr. Holben of Stockton, ... - XX VIII.

PAOl THE GOLD MINES OF CALIFORNIA. AND THE SILVER MINES OF NEVADA— A Special Paper, by Mr. William Ashburner, Mining Engineer.— The Gold Producing Regi n of California— Plainer Mining —The Quartz-Mines: their History and Condition— The Silver Mines of Nevada— The. Comstock Vein and its various Mines: the Gould A Curry, the Ophir, the Chollar-Potosi. the Savage, the Imperial, etc. —How they have been jManaged— The Problem of their Future, and its Probable Solution,

ADVERTISEMENT.

. Across the Continent: A SUMMER'S JOURNEY TO THE Rocky Mountains, the Mormons, and the Pacific States, WITH SPEAKER COLFAX. With a Full Map of all the Western Territories and the Route Traveled. BY SAMUEL BOWLES, Editor of the Springfield (Mass.) Republican Mr. Bowles went Overland to the Pacific Coast in May and June of this year, (1865,) in company with Hon. Schuyler Colfax, Speaker of the House of Representatives ; visited the Mining Re gions of Colorado, Nevada and California ; spent some time with the Mormons ; passed overland north to and through Oregon ; sailed up the Columbia River ; went through Washington Territory and Puget Sound ; visited the British Provinces of the North ; traveled all over California ; passed several weeks in San Francisco ; and 1 turned home by way of the Isthmus in September. yie Party, of which he was a member, enjoyed unrivaled oppor tunitits for seeing all sections of this great Western Half of our Continent; for knowing its people; for witnessing its wonderful scenery ; .ror studying its various resources and its strange developments ; for learning the history and condition of its Mining Inter ests; in every way for becoming acquainted with all its material and natural characteristics.

No travelers were ever so cordially welcomed Ly citizens as were these, — the journey was a continued ovation, — and all the most intimate and authentic sources of infor mation 'were freely opened to them.

ADVERTISEMENT.

.' The results of all these Observations and Experiences are given by Mr. Bowles, in the Letters which constitute this volume, with a freshness and fullness which have won for them, as published in The Springfield Republican, wide attention and much com mendation. The New York Times says of them :— " The whole SERIES IS THE ABLEST AND MOST VALUABLE REPORT EVER MADE OF THE CHARACTERISTICS OF THE WESTERN AND PACIFIC POR TIONS of our Union." In the volume the Letters have been carefully revised, and some additions made. Accompanying them are also given, as part of the history of this rare Summer's Journey, copious Extracts from the Speeches of Mr. ColFjUC at various points on the route ; additional information concerning the Mormons ; several valuable papers on Mines and Mining ; a full account of the route from Oregon through Idaho to Salt Lake City, with descriptions of the Mines and popu lation of Idaho, new and interesting facts as to the Yosemite and the Big Trees, and the Agriculture of California, — altogether nearly too pages of very valuable Supplementary Papers.

The volume will be found especially comprehensive and authentic in information and ideas as to the Pacific Railroad ; the Mormons, their social habits, political purposes, and religious polity ; and the Mines, — three great practical themes of now universal and pressing interest to the people of the East The accompanying Map contains all thft Territory of the United States, from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean, with the latest divisions into States and Territories ; the routes traveled and described by Mr. Bowles and his correspondents ; all the principal Mining Districts, and the general features and principal cities and towns of the whole country. It is prepared expressly from lates I surveys for this volume. The book contains about 500 large duodecimo pagfts, fine!' printed and bound, and is sold at the bookstores, or sent by mr a postage paid, for $2. Orders may be addressed to SAMUEL BOWLES & COMPAN'/ Springfist '.' Mais. Ot to HURD & HOUGHTON, Publi. A'hv York.

Letter I. From Massachusetts To The Missouri

Atchison, Kansas, May 21, 1865, A week of leisure traveling ends the first or railroad stage of the great overland trip across the Continent. It is 1,425 miles by railroad from Springfield to Atchison, via Buffalo, Cleveland, Chi cago, and the Hannibal and St. Joseph Railroad through northern Missouri. Here, the outmost post of our eastern railway system, we commence a coach ride of two thousand miles before we meet the projecting arm of the California railways at Pla cerville. Thence a day takes us down to San Fran cisco, and the Continent is spanned, the national breadth is measured. How this Republic, saved, reunited, bound together as never before, expands under such personal passage and footstep tread; how magnificent its domain ; how far-reaching and uprising its material, moral and political possibili ties and promises !

There is no such knowledge of the nation as comes of traveling it, of seeing eye to eye its vast extent, its various and teeming wealth, and, above all, its purpose-full people — growing only greater in personal power and activity as they grow fewer in numbers. We think our Yan kee leaders have active brains and comprehensive hands ; but the pioneers in the commerce and in the civilization of the West impress you as men of broader grasp and more intense vitality. The very breadth of their field expands them. It is five years since I was last in the West. Then I came to attend the Convention that nominated Mr. Lincoln for President. How long ago that seems ! How dim the almost tragic scenes and excitements and struggles of the Wigwam ! Personal prefer ences were lost and won there, life-long ambitions wrecked, new combinations created, and old ones shattered, whose significance was little understood then.

What century of other history has held such revolutions, has wrought such influences on the present and the future of the world, as these five years ! What five years of all life, of ours or any body's else, would you or I exchange for even our witness of these? We had an afternoon and evening in Cleveland, and a day in Chicago. I gathered new impressions of the beauty of the former city. No other place, East or West, unites such a business street as Su perior to such a residence avenue as Euclid. It is the gem of the western cities. Springfield has sim ilar union of business convenience and breadth with beautiful rural homes ; but the scale is smaller — our Main street is narrower, our Maple and Chest- CHICAGO AND ATCHISON. 3 nut shorter and less magnificently studded with palatial country residences.

Chicago is still great — to all Chicagoians. She has indeed made herself the commercial center of all the North-west. Milwaukee gives up the con test, and even her own State, to her old rival ; and St. Louis looks on with envy at the more rapid strides of the metropolis of the free North-west. There is less building in progress, however, than I ever have seen before, and fewer new structures are noticed on the business streets than are usually ob served between visits ; though there be spots enough still needing reconstruction. Chicago is getting es thetically ambitious, however ; she talks less of corner lots and corn and new blocks than of yore ; and turns her thoughts more to art, to literature and to philanthropy. Already with the great journal of the North-west, she is founding another, and draws from New York, in Mr. Dana, to lead it, one of the most eclectic of American scholars, one of the most executive of American minds.