St. Petersburg and Moscow: a visit to the court of the Czar

Preface

. Another Tourist throws himself on the kindness of the already way-worn public. Another Author seeks to gain for himself and his adventures a small share of the attention that the world has so often kindly bestowed on literary wanderers. He has dared to hope that, even among the mul titude of travellers who daily seek for public approval, he may find toleration — perchance favour.

PREFACE.

. It is a first attempt in letters— it will remain for his readers to say, whether it is to be, a last. It tells of a new country, and a new people, governed on old principles — principles that have long since been discarded and condemned by most of the enlightened nations of the world. The Author seeks not to praise or to upbraid — such a course would be presumptuous in the extreme, for he is young in years, and totally inexpe rienced in politics. He, therefore, merely tells of the country and the people, as he himself saw them. His sketches of Military, Political, or Educational Institutions are supported by statements, made in the hearing of the Author, by Russians.

PREFACE.

. IX These form but a small portion of the work, the rest is a Narrative of what the Writer saw and did. Apologies for a good book are unneces sary, and are of no assistance to a bad one. Leaving therefore the production to stand by its own merits, or to fall by its own faults, he only begs for unprejudiced judg ment and gentle criticism. 24, NORFOLK STREET, JULY, 1846. CONTENTS OP THE FIRST VOLUME.

Chapter I

The London Season — Reign of Fashion in English Society — The Author determines to travel — Is desirous of visiting Russia — Exaggerations respecting that country — The Russian Empire so differently described — Kindness of Baron B . — Embarkation on board the Countess of Lonsdale — A sagacious Opinion 1—14

Chapter II

Our Fellow Passengers — Arrival at the Elbe — Hamburg — Account of the great Fire — Recent Improvements — CONTENTS. The Hanse Towns— Travelling across Country- Monkish Architects —Ancient Paintings — Lubeck the seat of war— Its defence by Blucher— Plundered by the French— Arrival at Cronstadt— Civility of Russian Officials — Mis-statements respecting them — Sail up the Gulf of Finland — Appearance of St. Peters burg from the water . . . 15 — 44

Chapter III

Exaggerated praise — First impressions of St. Petersburg — The Izaak Church — Equestrian Statue of Peter the Great — Population of St. Petersburg as seen in the Newski Perspective — Want of Hotels — Letters of Introduction — Suburban residences of the Nobility — Fruits and Flowers — Private Gardens thrown open to the Public — Dramatic performances supported by Government — Journalism in Russia — Errors of M. de Custine — True story of the Princess Trubetzkoi .... 44 — 84

Chapter IV

Churches in St. Petersburg — Their characteristics- Warlike ensigns in Russian places of Worship— CONTENTS. XIII Russian Priests and religious Ceremonies — The Patriarch Nicon — His extraordinary Power — Church of St. Izaak, of St. Peter and St. Paul — Noble Mourners — Cathedral of our Lady of Cazan — Church of St. Alexander Newskoi — Prince E. D. — His extreme kindness — Censorship — Punch in Russia — License of the Press in England . 85—114

Chapter V

Fete at the Countess O — 's — Horrible Roads — Russian travelling Carriages — Russian Ladies — Their unpronounceable Names —French as a general Language — Desire of the Russian nobility to Travel — Toilette of the Russian Ladies — A Southern Beauty — Russian Officers — Gaiety of St. Petersburg — Society — The Ladies unequalled in light Conversation — — Our Presentation to the Grand Duke Michaels— His kindness — The Michael Palace — Royal Privacy not sought in Russia . . . 115 — 144

Chapter VI

St. Petersburg the City of Palaces— The Troitza Bridge — Magnificent view of the City— The Hermitage — CONTENTS. XIV The Houghton Gallery — Expense lavished upon Russian imperial Residences — Want of a Middle Class in Russia — The Winter Palace — M. de Custine's story of the rebuilding of this Palace, a calumny — Devotion of the people when the Building was in flames— Humanity of the Czar— The Emperor's private Telegraph — Column of the Emperor Alexander — The Taurida Palace — Extraordinary Ball-Room and Conservatory — Beautiful Prestol — Arsenal of St. Pe tersburg — Arms and Uniforms — The Modern Arsenal. 145—170

Chapter VII

Pavement of St. Petersburg — Horrible jolting — A drive on a Droschky — Russian Horses — Hackney Droschkies — Sufferings of the coachmen in Winter — Climate of Russia — Monotony of the cold Season — Disadvantages of St. Petersburg as a commercial City — Anomalies in the commercial system of Russia — English Merchants in St. Petersburg — Visit to the Camp of Crasnoe Seloe — A rainy Review — Presentation to the Emperor — Mounted Circassians — CONTENTS. XV Unpopularity of the War in the Caucasus — Bravery of the Circassians — Military Manœuvres — Russian troops ..... 171 — 203

Chapter VIII

Visit to the Academy of the Corps des Mines — Collection of minerals and precious stones — Mineralogical studies — Mock mines — Academy of arts — Bruloff the Russian painter — Russians deficient in invention — Institutions established for public instruction— Parish and District Schools, Gymnasiums, Universities — Education in private institutions — Domestic instruction — Tutors and governesses — Prohibited books — Rights of authors — Literature in Russia — Advantages of the present system of education . 205 — 227

Chapter IX

Concert given by the Empress — Palace in the park of Peterhof — Presentation to Her Majesty — Her appearance — Her amiable character — Imperial family — The Emperor — Service in the Imperial chapel — Magnificent choir — Park of Peterhof — Dinner at Court — National dishes — Autocratic power — The Empress CONTENTS. Catherine — Her maxims — Representative assembly — Efforts of the Emperor to remodel the Russian laws — Russian tribunals — Population of the empire — Anec dote of senatorial corruption — Criminal courts — Russian incongruities . . . 229 — 274 ERRATUM. In motto-to Chapter IX. for "Virgil" read " Horace."

Chapter I

The London Season — Reign of Fashion in English Society — The Author determines to travel — Is desirous of visiting Russia — Exaggerations respecting that country — The Russian Empire so differently described — Kindness of Baron B . — Embarkation on board the Countess of Lonsdale — A sagacious Opinion. VOL. I. li AND MOSCOW.

CHAPTER I. DEPARTURE.

Et puis la mode en est, et la cour l'autorise, Nous parlous de nous-meme avec toute franchise. CORNEILLE. On the evening of the Derby, 1845, I received news which compelled me to leave London for a short time. To state what the intelligence was would interest no one. My departure was occasioned by neither of the causes which so often, in the present day, B send young gentlemen on their travels — love and money — the superabundance of the former, or the scantiness of the latter. I had not lately been particularly extravagant of either, and with the exception of a few kght ideas peculiar to the beginning of the season, and a bill or two, my heart and purse were in an unusually flourishing state. I will swear I was neither in love nor in debt. The season was at its height. It is a wonderful time, that London season.

A bustling, hustling, dancing, chattering, flatter ing, staring, whispering, gossipping, flirting, marrying time; when ladies and lawgivers, dandies and pobticians, run riot in their respective spheres, and give themselves up to a carnival of separate pursuits — each seek ing happiness or distinction, to obtain a place or a pleasure, to secure a fortune or gratify an ambition, with equal earnestness and with equal determination. It is a great sacrifice to a great goddess. The deity of the season is devotedly wor shipped by thousands of votaries. The beautiful and the young; the rich and the powerful ; the great and the gay ; crowd round the dazzling shrine, and bend before the glittering idol. And well may they worship her, and bow to the goddess power ; for in no city, or in no society, is fashion more adored — no where does she reign more triumphant.

She is all-powerful ; a guide to the young, and a director of age : she rules in London with undisputed sway. Book worms may laugh at, and philosophers deride her power, but they, in their studies, little think that the same deity that presides at the birth of a new shawl, or a freshly imported dance, may influence grave men, and graver interests. Fashion now governs society, and the state of society certainly affects, in a great degree, the state of the commonwealth. But is London society, asit is at present, such an institution as should form the^nucleus of English social intercourse ? Is it not fictitious, hollow, and baseless ? A gaudy, but still a great ;and gorgeous fabric, reared on an already melting foundation ? Is not the goddess of the temple an imaginary divinity ? Title, wealth, and talent, may each conduce ,to place a. man or woman within the sacred circle of this fancied Paradise ; but they are in no way indispensable qualifications for " the best sets."

Thus we see oftentimes, a titled scion of nobility a laughing-stock and a bore. The millionnaire, whose wife would give half her fortune for the privileges of a J — y or a L — y, spending her life and wealth in attempting to attract the notice, or court the favour, of the priestesses of the temple of fashion ; and the successful author, or brilliant orator, often times unhonoured or unknown, and looked down on by beings infinitely inferior in virtue or talent, but of great consideration in the park or the party. The qualifications for the position are indescribable ; suffice it to see that they are attainable, and the attainment thereof certainly confers power and influence on the possessors. How long the present rule will continue is doubtful, but a power may one day arise that would overturn the temple and scorn its priests ; and that would raise, as the goddess of society, a graceful figure, a trifold deity of talent, wealth, and worth.

This is all very fine, but still I confess I like London ; I like the beauties, the chaperons, and the dandies : the dinners, the balls, the opera, and the park ; I k'ke aristo cracy and hate snobs ; and so, notwithstanding my philosophy, I will decidedly go to London next year, if possible. Being obliged to leave for a time this giddy whirl, and travel having always been my greatest pleasure, I immediately fixed upon Russia as the scene of my short tour, for many reasons. Having heard so many con flicting statements, so many astonishing stories of the hospitality of the nation — of the beauty of the towns, and the wild state of the country and people — of the greatness of the Czar, and the devotion of his subjects; my heart bounded at the idea of seeing and judging for myself, the country of autocracy ; the wastes, whose wild tenants, Peter spurred into a nation in a few years : the power which has of late exercised so great an influence over Europe and Asia, — the tomb of Napoleon's fortune, and the sepulchre of the independence of Poland.

I longed to see if the authors of " Revela tions of Russia," the " Mysteries of Russia," "Russia in 1839," and in every other year, founded their stories upon fact ; whether the country was a pleasant land or a hideous tomb, and whether 60,000,000 of men were in an abject state of blind submission to the inhuman and brutal wills of a tyrannical Emperor, and of harsh lords. I wished to see whether these gentlemen had composed interesting tales of tyranny and oppression B to gain notoriety and pelf; or, whether these books, so hostile to Russia, and so harrowing in their details, were the outcries of an oppressed and tortured nation, appealing to Europe for justice. My stay was unfortunately very limited — so much so, that I sometimes wonder at my presumption in attempting to write a book containing an account of so short a tour ; but I am not going to give to the world an abstruse political dissertation on Russian government, or a statistical description of the country, but a mere account of my own doings, and to tell plainly the little I saw and heard.

If the book be found meagre in fact, and deficient in information, my only excuse is, that it is not written for statesmen or statisticians, but for idlers, gapers, and little thinkers, like myself, who look on the busy world, its business, and its divisions, without saying much, but who endeavour to draw from the wisdom or the follies of others, equal instruction and amuse ment. This is my only apology for asking the reader to look into the following pages — not that he will find therein any startling facts or appalling disclosures, or even many things that he may not previously have known ; but I flatter my self that he may, perhaps, by their contents be induced to look upon the Black Eagle in a somewhat altered light — and that he will find the few facts of my short work uncontra dicted by either his own experience, or the authentic works of former travellers.

Russia is the country, of all others, the most difficult to describe : her government, her laws, her society, and institutions, present themselves in such very different lights to different visitors. Some travellers will see in Russia a paternal and mild government ; strict, but just laws ; brilliant and polished society; benevolent and charitable institutions : while others (and among them the generality of modern authors) will see in Russia a vast charnel-house, a ter rible prison, where confiscation, the knout, and Siberia, are for ever in constant view, and whose hideous forms present themselves to the stranger at every moment ; where laws are but licences for oppression ; society but a smooth and dark surface, that hides the hor rors that lurk beneath ; and the educational establishments of the country but vast maneges for the breaking-in of youthful slaves.

My intention is not to enter deeply on these subjects, but merely to relate, for the amusement of the reader, a few incidents of travel, leaving him to form his own opinions as to the truth or falsehood of his former impressions. A galloping and steaming tour of eleven weeks, cannot contain much real information ; but I fain would hope that its results may afford something that may help to while away an idle hour, and be guile the weariness of the train, or the tediousness of a voyage. Having been fortunate enough to find a good companion, we were furnished with some excellent letters of introduction, through the kindness of Baron B., and others. To these letters, we owe all we saw, and all the hospitality we received in Russia. Thus furnished, we sailed from London in the Countess of Lonsdale steamer, on the 11th of June, 1845.

Many of my friends wondered at my choice of Russia for the scene of my travels. Some AND MOSCOW. said that it was an ugly, uninteresting country, that the inhabitants were stupid slaves, and modern barbarians ; others declared that it was folly to travel, for pleasure, in a country where there were no inns. Some hinted at Siberia, made certain of the existence of a secret police, and said that spies as numerous as the eyes of Argus would beset our way ; while one hirsute gentleman, more sensible than the rest, wisely opined that that must be a great country which was the source of bears' grease, and from whence Atkinson had derived his immortal fame. I took the advice of the latter, and, after a prosperous voyage of two days, we found ourselves admiring the new town of Hamburg.

Chapter II

Our Fellow Passengers — Arrival at the Elbe — Hamburg — Account of the great Fire — Recent Improvements — The Hanse Towns — Travelling across Country — Monkish Architects — Ancient Paintings — Lubeck the seat of war — Its defence by Blucher — Plundered by the French — Arrival at Cronstadt — Civility of Russian Officials — Mis -statements respecting them — Sail up the Gulf of Finland — Appearance of St. Petersburg from the water. AND MOSCOW. 17

CHAPTER II. THE FREE TOWNS.

Urbs antiqua ruit, multos dominata per annos. VIRGIL. Our fellow-passengers in the Countess of Lonsdale steamer were, as usual, a mixture of all nations. Among the number was a Rus sian diplomatist, who kindly gave us much information as to our future movements, and whose agreeable conversation and gentleman like manners alleviated, in a great degree, the tediousness of both this passage, and the longer voyage from Lubeck to St. Petersburg. We had the pleasure also of the company of a crowd of school-boys, six mon keys, twelve tortoises, and a laughing hyena. The latter was a hideous, one-eyed monster, whose continual roars fully justified Captain Marryat's simile of their being like the cries of a human being in distress — and I have no doubt that he would have devoured all at tracted by them to his assistance, if he could.

His wooden den did not look a bit too secure, and I anxiously speculated on the probability of a hyena hunt on the deck of the Countess of Lonsdale, or the contingency of the illustrious stranger insisting on his right to a berth as a cabin passenger. However, the beast con tented himself with grinning and howling, in answer to the playful attacks of the young gentlemen, and we arrived in the Elbe with out any accident, as, contrary to our expectations, the boys did not tumble overboard, and none of the wild beasts were enlarged. The town of Hamburg is wonderfully improved by the great fire of 1840, the most destructive conflagration that has visited a European city for ages. The fire broke out in the centre of the town, and burnt for two days, in spite of all the exertions of the inhabitants.

Churches, and buildings, public and private, fell a prey to the devouring element, with astonish ing rapidity; the progress of the flames among the old and dry wooden houses, ren dering all the exertions of the firemen nearly useless. Some spirit warehouses having been emptied of their contents, the liquors ran out into the stagnant pools in such quantities that they were actually for some time pumping strong grog on the burning houses, which, of course, had the effect of increasing, instead of staying, the devastation. The fire was shortly raging in four or five different places. A few bungbng attempts were made in the early part of the day to stop it, by blowing up some of the houses ; but being badly done, these efforts only added to the disaster, and increased the general panic. They were said to have been made by some English engineers; and this circumstance gave rise to the absurd report that the Eng lish, of whom there are five thousand resident in and about the town, were the incendiaries who had caused the disaster.

A mob in a burning city, in the terrible state of excitement that such an awful calamity must produce, are ready to believe any rumour, however absurd and unfounded ; the consequence of this report was, that the lower class of the inhabitants became furious, and vowed vengeance against every EngUshman they could catch. Several were shortly put into prison, and the Captain of the Countess of Lonsdale told me, that he had a very narrow escape of being severely maltreated by the enraged populace. He was recognized, as he was walking by himself, near the river, into which the good people of Hamburg threatened to throw him immediately, as a wicked and dangerous incendiary. He contrived to find refuge in a cellar, and was only delivered from his dangerous posi tion by some Danish soldiers, who escorted him back to his vessel amid a shower of execrations and missiles of all sorts.

After the fire had desolated half the city, its progress in the principal direction was arrested by blowing up Streit's Hotel, which stood in the same situation as the present one of that name. This enormous building crumbled to the ground in a moment, and thus the remaining side of the Jungfernstieg was saved, and the worst part of the fire extinguished. The scene after the conflagra tion, we were told, was awful. Thousands who had suddenly been deprived of home, food, raiment, and their entire property, were encamped without the ramparts, exposed to hunger and cold ; many lost, absolutely, every thing they possessed, and must inevitably have starved, but for the supply of provisions furnished gratuitously by the people of Al tona, and the inhabitants of the surrounding country. The people soon found out their mistake with regard to the English, for a large sub scription was immediately entered into, and forwarded from London for their relief; and, while the insurance offices of Hamburg were nearly bankrupt, and some totally unable to pay, England paid every farthing for which she was babie, which amounted altogether to an enormous sum.

The consequence is, that the inhabitants insure now almost exclusively in British houses, and British credit stands as high in the Free Town as any where in the world. Hamburg is now a fine flourishing city, and is the only town which, in any degree, retains a portion of the ancient wealth and power of the once mighty Hansa. The inhabitants, like those of the greater part of the north of Europe, (Russia proper, of course, excepted) profess the Lutheran faith, and a passenger in the steamer, connected with the town, who was a strict Methodist, and an ardent admirer of Sir Culling Eardly Smith, loudly lamented the utter want of religion among the people and clergy. The latter, he said, are all Rationahsts, who teach their flock that there is neither hell nor devil, and play cards on Sundays ! — Iniquity, the bare recital of which made the hair of the pious relator almost stand on end, and horrified some nervous young ladies, who were about to become residents in what he called the Babylon of Lutheranism.

At twelve o'clock at night we started for Lubeck, and, though there is an excellent road the whole way, (a fact we were ignorant of at the time) our driver, for some unaccountable reason took us literally across the country ; by this means we were almost in a state of dislocation when we arrived at Lubeck. Any thing more terrible than the series of bounds and jolts that we encountered that night can hardly be imagined, to which pleasures were added a slow and most imperturbable coachman, who insisted on feed ing his horses once every hour, and whose mercy and affection for his beasts seemed to have quite effaced all feelings of consideration or pity for the Christian part of his charge. After we had gone more than half the way we got on a very good road, and found out, to our infinite annoyance, that we ought to have enjoyed the same the whole way.

Lubeck is a charming old city : the houses are covered with the quaint high roofs of the northern German towns ; and the ramparts, which are now turned into pleasure-grounds and gardens, show how strong was once the capital of the Hansa. This was the meeting place of the merchant law-givers of the fif- VOL. I. C teenth century, when nearly every city of importance from Reval to the Rhine, sent its deputies to Lubeck. to defiberate on the affairs of this mighty republic. Haughtily and proudly did they dictate terms and trea ties to emperors, princes, and nobles; but their ambition never descended to the conquest of barren states, and half populated countries ; they only stipulated for a free exercise of commerce, and a safe transit for their goods. They had already thoroughly discovered the mighty power of trade, and laughed to scorn the feudal nobles of the age, who were squandering their lives and fortunes in petty fights of factions, and in endeavouring to acquire, at the point of the sword, inhos pitable lands and empty castles.

The Rath haus at Lubeck was their Senate House, and they still show the Hall of Conference of the representatives of those sturdy traders. The Dom Kirche is a fine gothic building, though sadly disfigured by rough and clumsy pews, placed in the body of the church. How curious it is that Protestants retain so little of the taste of their Roman Catholic ancestors in the decoration and arrangement of their places of worship, for we invariably see in all Lutheran countries the shapeless pew or ill wrought monument destroying the fair pro portions of vaulted aisles and Gothic pillars. Those were fine old fellows the monkish architects of the middle ages, the monu ments of whose taste and talent are spread over the entire face of Protestant and Ca tholic Europe. They sought not in the gorgeous fanes they raised, to perpetuate their names as the inventors of a most beautiful C style to which their genius gave birth, or to lay up for themselves immortal architectural fame.

Unknown and unnamed, they wrought for the glory of God and the good of His Church, and they begged from country to country gold to raise temples worthy of the worship of Jehovah. Their bones have long since mouldered in the crypts of their abbey churches, but the trophies of their genius will stand as everlasting mementos of their piety and perseverance, and many generations will still wonder at the talent of the obscure monk of olden time. Many curious things are to be seen in this old church at Lubeck. There is a painting of The Last Judgment, not remarkable for its merit, a fact the artist seemed to have been quite aware of, for he has represented himself in the lower corner enjoying the enviable position of being dragged into hell by a legion of devils — his mouth gaping in a hideous manner, exhibits the tortures he is undergoing, and every unclean looking imp, bogie, demon, or hell-cat that a poet or painter could have imagined, is dragging away nimbly at the bmbs and body of the unfortunate draughtsman.

There is also a beautiful picture on folding doors of wood, intended for an altar piece, representing ' The Passion' of our Saviour. It must have been done in an early age, as the author evidently had the ignorance of perspective peculiar to the first epoch of drawing. The like nesses are wonderfully kept up throughout, and it is considered a very good picture, notwithstanding some slight anachronisms of costume, for Pontius Pilate is represented as a fat burgomaster, the Roman soldiers as gallant cavaliers in full suits of plate armour, and the Virgin Mary in a stiff ruff, laced boddice, and diamond stomacher. The Marien Kirche is also a fine building, and contains a curious clock, and a picture of the Dance of Death — a mournful polonaise, wherein " old Time" has found a suitable partner in every age and every profession, and is handing to the grave with equal suavity the crowned king and peasant child.

This ancient town was the scene of the last struggle in the disastrous campaign of 1806. Defeated en masse in the double battle of Auerstadt and Jena, on the 19 th of October, the Prussians sustained in detail a series of defeats, unparalleled in the history of war. Early in September, Prussia had sent forth to defend the fatherland, one hundred and thirty-two thousand of her sons. On the 5 th of November, Marshal Blucher occupied Lubeck with twenty-four thousand men, the only organized remains of that gallant host. Hotly pursued by the united corps of Bernadotte and Soult, sixty-thousand strong, the undaunted veteran placed the few heavy guns he had retained, to guard the prin cipal gates, and made every preparation, his scanty means would allow, for a determined defence ; but the old walls and crumbling ramparts, though defended with all the energy of despair, could not withstand the impetuous attack of the victorious French.

In the face of a murdering fire, they broke down the old pallisades with their hatchets, and entered the outworks from whence they penetrated into the town, and attacked those who were still bravely defending the gates in the rear. Vainly did Blucher charge repeatedly down the Konig Strasse at the head of his hussars, for the enemy, who had now poured into the city in great numbers, took possession of the houses, and fired from the roofs and windows on the Prussian cavalry. Every street was contested to the last ; every house became the scene of a death struggle. Slowly and with difficulty the iron Marshal withdrew the scattered and beaten remnants of his troops from the blood stained streets, and towards evening collected five thousand men in the marshes on the Danish side. The next day seven thousand Prussians, with tears in their eyes, laid down their arms.

The campaign was virtually at an end, and the kingdom of Prussia annihilated. Lubeck on that night, though a neutral town, suffered all the horrors of a city taken by storm. The victorious French regarded little the inoffensive character of the inhabi tants ; and though their enemies were subdued and driven away, the wild soldiery exercised all the barbarity and ferocity usual in such cases. The quiet burghers and their families saw their homes suddenly invaded by a licentious and victorious army, whose only law was their own unbridled desires. That night is said to have exceeded in horror any of the disasters of the campaign. The loss of life and property was immense, and adds another dark tale to the history of the thousand woes inflicted on Germany by the re morseless ambition of Napoleon.