Temples and Elephants: the narrative of a journey of exploration through Upper Siam and Lao, etc

Front matter

S/r.? __Jv// Jrw//s' >/,ye:.i/// (///■//■//■■///'■'/' / S/f/y <■•/ y/f///r TEMPLES AND ELEPHANTS : THE NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY OF EXPLORATION THROUGH UPPER SIAM AND LAO. BT CARL BOCK, AUTHOR OF "THE HEAD-HUNTE1.S OF BORNEO. MAP, COLOURED PLATES, AND ILLUSTRATIONS. EonBoit : SAMPSON LOW, MAESTON, SEARLE, & RIYINGTON, CROWN BUILDIFGS, 188, FLEET STREET. 1884 [All rights reserved.] London : printed bt gilbert and rivington, limited, st. john's squabe, TO HIS MAJESTY KING CHULALONKORN THE FOLLOWING- NOTES UPON THE LAND OF "TEMPLES AND ELEPHANTS:" OTEE WHICH HE RULES "WITH WISDOM, JUSTICE, AND PROGRESS FOR HIS WATCHWORDS, ARE MOST RESPECTFULLY AND GRATEFULLY SeDicatrt BY THE AUTHOR. A

Preface

. In the following pages I have endeavoured to give a faithful account of what I saw and heard during a journey from Bangkok through Upper Siam and Lao. I trust that the record of my travels — in Lao par ticularly — will be of interest, as little or nothing is known in Europe of that country, the only European, so far as I can gather, who has traversed any portion of the same ground being Lieutenant (afterwards General) Macleod, who went into Upper Siam in 1837, and who succeeded in reaching Kiang Hung. I regret that I can give but meagre iuformation on many points on which I shall probably be expected to afford many details after a stay of fourteen months in Siam and Lao. The difficulty of extracting any in formation from the Siamese, and still more from the Laosians, who hate the sight of a foreigner, must be my excuse for any shortcomings in this respect.

What I saw, however, I have described with fidelity ; what I heard I have recorded as it was stated to me : I have, at the special request of the Siamese Govern ment, refrained from any political allusions, but, with this obviously needful omission, I have endeavoured Preface. VI to " nothing extenuate, nor," I hope, have I " set down aught in malice." To the many gentlemen, official and non-official, whom I met during my journey, and who rendered me valued services, I desire to convey my thanks for their kindness to a stranger. Foremost amongst them I must express my deep sense of gratitude to His Majesty the King of Siam, without whose generous personal assistance, pecuniary and otherwise — by giving me letters of recommenda tion, and by placing steamers, boats, elephants, and coolies at my disposal — I should not have been able to accomplish the journey which it was my privilege and pleasure to make from end to end of the vast kingdoms which own allegiance to this enlightened monarch.

To H.R.H. Prince Devawongsa Varoprakar, for his many services and acts of kindness to me during my stay in Bangkok ; to the Foreign Office in London, for its valuable letter of recommendation to her Majesty's representative at Bangkok, Mr. W. Gifford Palgrave ; to Mr. Palgrave himself; to Mr. W. H. Newman, H.M.'s Acting Consul-general ; to Messrs. E. B. Gould and E. H. French, of the British Agency ; to Dr. Smith, the physician to the Agency; and to the American missionaries, Dr. Cheek and Mr. Jonathan Wilson, I beg to offer my sincere thanks for the assistance they rendered me. I may, perhaps, be permitted in this place to acknowledge my sense of the honour which has been conferred upon me, in recognition of my humble efforts at increasing our knowledge concerning little- Preface. VII known lands, by the bestowal upon me of the Order of Franz- Josef, by H.I.M. the Emperor of Austria ; of the Order of the Rose, by H.I.M. the Emperor of Brazil ; and of its gold medal, by the Geographical Society of Lisbon ; and by my election as an honorary member of the Geographical Societies of Rome and Samarang, and of the Anthropological Society of Florence.

Finally, I have to thank Mr. Charles E. Fryer for the care he has taken in revising my MSS., cor recting my imperfect English, and in passing this book through the press. My thanks are also due to Mr. C. F. Kell for the reproduction of my coloured drawings, and to Mr. J. D. Cooper for the manner in which he has engraved the smaller sketches. CARL BOCK. Christiania, October, 188.3. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Page

At Singapore — Down the Malay coast — First glimpse of Siam — Entering the Menam River — Paknam — Temples and Telegraphs — Phrachedees — Bangkok from the river — Scene on the Menam — A visit to the Kromatah — Albinoes — The Kromatah's palace — A private interview 1

Chapter II

An audience of the king — The new palace and the old — Prince Devan, the king's brother — A royal Amazon — A whiff of royal tobacco — In the throne-room — The king's policy — Abolition of slavery — The king's biography — His native and European advisers — A big dose of medicine — Royal favours ......... 10

Chapter III

The king's elephant stables — Royal tuskers- — The white elephants — A real white elephant — Reception of tbe distinguished stranger — The astrologers — The insignia of Siamese nobility — A motley crowd — The Siamese troops — The royal body-guard — An elephant on the rampage — The procession of the sacred pachyderm — Christening the white elephant — Taking his portrait — The "lord of the elephants" — How the white elephant was caught — Native art and artists — Historic elephants — A sham white elephant . . . . .19

Chapter IV

The Wangna or "second king ' — A birthday-dinner at his palace — A Chinese garden — Shooting-fish — Fighting-fish — The Wangna's mother — A visit to the harem — Siamese dress — Taking tea with a princess ...... 34

Chapter V

In the streets of Bangkok — The ubiquitous Chinese — A characteristic scene — A liquor grievance — Convicts at work — In the prison — In the great market — A Chinese gambling-den — Contents. IX page Praying for luck — A lakon performance — Siamese actors — Native music — A royal band of musicians — Native instruments of music ... ...... 41

Chapter VI

A visit to the principal temples — Wat Poh — A giant Buddha figure — A quaint garden — Wat Chang, the elephant temple — Remarkable architecture — The Wat Sikhet — A strange structure — A bird's-eye view of Bangkok — Buried treasure — A cremation-ground — A body awaiting cremation — How the poor are burned — The garb of mourning — The feed of the vultures— A sickening spectacle — Insect scavengers — A warning skeleton — Effect of funeral ceremonies on health — An outbreak of cholera — Science versus superstition — Native views of disease — L-.iid up with cholera . . . .50

Chapter VII

, Preparing to leave Bangkok. — Servant-hunting — Catching a thief — In a Siamese police court — A native judge — Diamond cut diamond — Kao, my interpreter — A visit to Ayuthia — The legend of the foundation of the city — Summoning the Hoalaman — An "elephant-drive" — The king's summer residence — A characteristic structure — Resemblances of Norwegian to Siamese architecture — A curious Wat — Drowning of the queen — Royal cremation ceremonies — An enormous cremch torium — A magnificent cremation-urn — The present queen of Siam — A large family ........ 64

Chapter VIII

Off to the west coast — More deserters — Native fishermen at Ban Lem — Midnight dogs — Petchaburee — Paying visits — Caverns at Petchaburee — A temple service— Thread-like ladders — A primitive bridge — War captives — Chief Rung Ram — Marking for the king's service — Ban Kow Jai — A curious bill of fare — A visit from the Karians — The "mountain-spirit" — Among the hill-tribes — A Karian village and its chief — Dangers of portrail-sketching — Angering the spirits — Manners and customs of the Karians — At Radburee — Au interview with the ex-regent of Siam — Service in a Sala — Kanburee — The law's delay 79

Chapter IX

Return to Radburee — A famous shrine — The ordination of Buddhist priests— An illustrious novice — The government of the Church — A visit to a high Church dignitary — Life of a Buddhist priest — Return to Bangkok . . . . .98

Chapter X

The royal visitation of the temples — Procession of state barges — A magnificent scene and its contrast — A woman condemned Contents. X PAGE to death — Proclaiming her doom — Awaiting execution — The last scene of all — The decapitation — Given to the vultures . . . . . . • • • .107

Chapter XI

Northward ho ! — Bangkok from the river by night — A gigantic Buddha figure — Paknam Po — " Poliug " up stream — Ban Put Pisai — How to find a governor — A dead chief awaiting cremation — Diving for shells — A curious charm — Swamped — My boat carried away by the flood — Praying for a safe journey — ■ Deserters and deserters — The view from the river — Arrival at Kampheug Pet — Dining with the governor — Sham champagne — An eclipse of the moon — A great ruined temple — Nature versus Art . . . . . . . .115

Chapter XII

At Raheng — The principal town of Northern Siam — Gambling in the streets — A remarkable cavern — An important military station — Convicts at work —The timber trade — Forest-fires — The trade of Raheng — A railway project — A railway from Bangkok to Raheng — Its prospects — The labour question — John Chinaman as a navvy — Dining with the governor — Notes on Siamese coins ....... 130

Chapter XIII

Leaving Raheng — Elpphaut-riding — The centre ofthe elephantsupply — A solitude — Muang Tunn, on the borders of Lao — Effects of the drought — Christmas Day — Arrival at Lakon — A difficulty in finding quarters — An obstructive Phya — Taking the law in my own hands — An unintentional trespass — Quartered in the law courts — A visit from a prince — " Fond of foreigners" — Returning the call — "Five o'clock tea" in Lao — Native silversmiths' work — Lacquered ware . .143

Chapter XIV

Phyas and Chows — Position of Lao princes — The government of the Lao States — Taxation — Official usurers — Lao officials — Mode of salutation — Slaves and slavedeb tors — Curious coins — I am kept prisoner — Sentenced to pay a fine — Making the best of it — Scene from the court of justice — Flogging a thief — A curious clock — A Buddha's foot-print — The royal temple at Lakon — Cars of merit — The legend of the Rachasee — A sacred library — Precincts of the temple . . . .155

Chapter XV

A professor of tattooing — How the Laosians decorate their flesh — A painful operation — The patterns and the instruments and colours — Description of tattoo-marks — Mineral deposits near Lakon — Abundance of elephants — Native carts — A dog-cart drawn by men — Dinner with the Radjaput — At last I see Contents. XI PAsiE the chief— The Phya is "found out "—Smoked out— The interview closes abruptly — The Radjaput's wedding — Pre paring for the feast — I join in the procession — "With all my worldly goods I thee endow " — Feasting not wisely, but too well — Matrimonial agents — Siamese and Laosian marriage ceremonies — Courtship and betrothal — A characteristic Sia mese proverb — The order of matrimony — The festivities — Position of wives — Education among Lao women . . .170

Chapter XVI

Liberty at last — Princes as cicerones — Elephants sliding down hill — Ngiou traders — A bullock caravan — Mules in masquerade — A dangerous road — Native pottery-works and brick-fields — How they make pots and pans — A curious oven — The city of Lampoon — Ancient records — A famous Wat and Phrachedee — Buried relics — Ransacking the Phrachedees — Treasure trove — Keeping away the spirits — Merit-making — Steps unto heaven — Lao notion of the universe — The differeut celestial chambers — The highest heaven . . . . . .188

Chapter XVII

Buddhism in Lao — The degrees of the priesthood — Acolytes — "Children of the crystal bottle" — Heavenly theatricals — Entering the priesthood — Prince-priests — The ordination ceremony — Priests gathering alms — Daily round of temple-life — Resemblance between Romish and Buddhist ritual — The government of the priesthood — The abode of the priests — - The service of the temple — The sacred Bo-tree — Occupation of the priests — Trial for breach of vow of chastity — -The religious feeling of the Laosians — Priests versus Laity — European opinion on Buddha and Buddhism .... 203 CHATER XVIII. Arrival at Chengmai — Pra Udon, the second Siamese Commissioner — A " floating house" — Introduction of carriages into Lao — A projected cab-stand — Dr. Cheek and the American Mission — Work and prospects of the mission — Influence on the natives — An opening for missionary ladies — A visit to the Chow Hluang — How to carry a flower — Ear-piercing, and ear-ornaments — Long ears and long life — Two kings ou one throne — A Chow's promise, aud his performances — History of Chengmai — Temples, old and new — The market at Chengmai — Yunnan trading caravans — Spurious coins — " Cruelty to animals " — How the pack-saddles are loaded — Camping for the night — Tigers — Haw watch-dogs . . . . .216

Chapter XIX

Curious legal ceremony — An appeal to the " Water God " — Betting on the result— A test of endurance — The "verdict" — Justice in Chengmai — A prince sentenced to death — His Contents. XII PAGE execution — The native execution-block — Pardoning a criminal — Qualms of conscience — Releasing the slaves — An invitation to dine with the Chow Hluang — Native substitute for paper — An eye-witness of the Delhi Durbar — Dinner and theatricals — A native artist — How they paint in Lao — Wood-carvings — Presents to royalty — Native partiality for strong drink — Tea-drinkers ......... 233

Chapter XX

Preparing to leave Chengmai — I receive my passports — Sealing a native document — An important omission — Insulting the foreigner — Good-bye — The road to Muang Pau — A narrow escape from drowning — Betel-chewers — Women smokers — My quarters at Muang Pau — Laosian furniture — A comfortable cradle — Lao customs in relation to childbirth — Propitiating the spirits — A fiery ordeal — Naming the child — Death-ceremonies — Cremation not universal — Fighting mourners — En route to heaven ........ 249

Chapter XXI

A chatty Chow — Bravery of the Muang Pau people — No elephants! — My Lord Tiger, the tiger-hunter — Rack-gathering — A mendacious Chow — Cheap poultry — Talios or charms — A tiger shot — Shariug the booty — The road to Muang Fang — A prince's hunting expedition — Native hunters — Decoying the wild fowl — A modern settlement on an ancient site — Hiring a house — An Augean stable — Seeing spirits through the telescope — Clearing the forest — Threatened with famine . 263

Chapter XXII

An attack of fever — A tiger scare — Among the ruined temples — Buddha-hunting — Stopped by the priests — A rare figure of Buddha — Its inscription and the interpretation thereof — A curious prayer — Different forms of the images of Buddha — Buddha sitting, erect, and recumbent — Their origin — Some incidents in the life of Buddha — How the images are made . 275

Chapter XXIII

A scapegoat for the ravages of the tigers — Curious mode of herding cattle — Tiger-bait — A visit to the cave of Tarn tap tau — An ancient shrine — A gigantic Buddha — A thunderstorm — I receive a deputation — Arguing with the Phyas — A dilemma — Rhinoceros-blood as a medicine — Cheating a Chinaman — Mau Sua's hunting-box — At Tatong — Spurious gems — A Ngiou village — Customs of the people .... 286

Chapter XXIV

Down the River Mekok — Another cave-temple at Kiang Hai The Chow Radjasee— Lao architecture — A typical habitation — A Laosian princess at the toilet — A Lao garden — A visit Contents. XIII PAGE from the Mussus — Arrow-poison — Spirit-worship — Customs ofthe Mussus — Asocial system based on borrowing — Market ing — A Lao family-dinner — A princess crockery-dealer — Chignons for sale. ........ 300

Chapter XXV

Kiang Hai, past and present— Prisoners in the "stocks" — Ruined temples — The people and their characteristics — Moral character — Occupations of the women — Rice-cleauing aud love-making — -The men's employment — Fishing and hunting — Climate of Lao — The primitive Laosians — Physique of the people — Albinoes — Practising distortions — The isolation of the people — Curious medicines — Visiting the Chow Operat's wife — Dress of the Laosians — Male attire — Women's fashions ■ — Mode of dressing the hair. ...... 314

Chapter XXVI

The Chow Hluang of Kiang Hai — Hostilities with the Ngious — A travelled Lao prince — Anecdotes of Kiang Tung — Troubles threatening — Starting for the Ngiou States — A cyclone — Displaying the Siamese standard — An unmannerly Chow — -Rumours of war — Phee-ka, the spirit-complaint — Exiles: — More ruined topes and Buddha figures — Beautiful scenery — Return to Kiang Hai — The Chow's baby is ill — Native doctor's prescription — Diseases and doctors — Spirit-doctors — A royal spirit-medium — Spirit-dances and dancers — Tjang-too : a miraculous power .... 329

Chapter XXVII

A prevaricating Chow — An unexpected ally — Forcing the rapids — Fresh disappointments — At Muang Faug again — New Year's festivities — Fishing — The silver key — Carrying off my trophies — Tribute to the priests — Homage to Buddha allegiance — Purification of the priests — More delays — An appeal to Chengmai ...... 343

Chapter XXVIII

An untoward incident — My landlord Nan Inta — Release at last — Leaving Muang Fang — The sources of the River Meping — Back to Chengmai — Complaining to the Chow — An unlucky investment — Mischievous coolies — A claim for damages — A lengthy indictment — Gaining the day — An offer of reconciliation — A picnic at Doi sua tape — Fireworks for the spirits — Working the teak-forests — Philosophic labourers — A much-tattooed Burmese — A princess's intrigues .... 354

Chapter XXIX

Departure from Chengmai — Down the Meping — Ingenious irrigation-system — A leper village — Through a deep gorge — Preparing for a plunge — A queer ingredient in gunpowder — Contents. XIV PAGE Strange water-worn rocks — Shooting the rapids — The build of native boats — Raheng again — Characteristic native indif ference — Siamese landing-places — Kampheng — Xainat — Ayuthia— Bangkok en fete — The origin of the city — History of the present Siamese dynasty — The " bone-relic " ceremonies. .......... 367

Chapter XXX

The king and the furtherance of justice — The new law courts — Educational advancement — Postal facilities — The great Wat Phra Kao — A hundred years in building — Division of labour — Completion and centennial celebration — The Emerald Buddha — The king's speech . ...... 382

Chapter XXXI

A national Siamese exhibition — Costly display of gems — Native jewellery — National costumes — Fine arts — Inlaid mother-of-pearl work and lacquer-ware — Bamboo and its uses — Agricultural and forest produce — Fisheries- — Minerals and precious stones — Antiquities — Manufacture of Buddha images — The suture of Siam ......... 392

Chapter XXXII

A farewell interview with the king — A royal art-critic — Visit to the royal harem — The " chapel royal " — A crystal Buddha — The royal monastery — Good-bye to Siam — Return to Europe 400

Appendix

I. Notes on the customs of the royal family of Siam, and the position of princes, especially of those styled " Chaofa," " Pra Ong Chao," and "Krom" 405

APPENDIX.

II. Notes on the geography, climate, and population of Siam . 421

APPENDIX.

III. Siamese mode of reckoning time ...... 428 Index LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Coloured Plates. PAGE The White Elephant (from a coloured drawing by the author) to face 30 A Theweda, or angel (facsimile of a native drawing by Noi Meta) to face 245 Engravings. Portrait of His Majesty the King of Siam (from a photograph) frontispiece Portrait of the author to face 1 Portrait of H.R.H. Prince Devawongsa Varoprakar (from a photograph) to face 11 The king's gold betel service, &c. (drawn by the author) . . 24 The Hanuman or Hoalaman (from a native drawing) . . 69 Pavilion in the lake at the palace of Bang Pa In (from a photograph) to face 71 Jewelled Urn containing ashes of the late Queen of Siam (from a photograph) to face 75 The Queen of Siam (from a photograph) 76 The King of Siam with the Crown Prince (from a photograph) 77 Karians of Petchaburee district (drawn by the author) . . 92 High priest of Bangkok (from a photograph) . . . -103 The Kateen Festival: the king carried in state (from a photo- _ graph) toface 109 How to find a governor (drawn by the author) . . . .119 Rare figure of Buddha preaching (from a photograph) , . 128 " How do you do ?

" a Lao salutation (drawn by the author) . 158 The Rachasee: king of beasts (from a native drawing) . .165 Royal Wat and sacred library at Lakon (drawn by the author) . 168 How a Laosian is tattooed (from a native drawing) . . 172 Karian boy from Lakon district (drawn by the author) . . 174 Karian man from Lakon district (drawn by the author) . .175 List of Lllustrations. XVI PAGE Yunnan trader and mule (drawn by the author) . . . 190 Side view of leader of Yunnan caravan (drawn by the author) . 191 Laosians steaming rice ((kawn by the author) . . . .193 Lao uotion of the universe (from a native drawing) . . . 200 Trader's pack-saddle (drawn by the author) .... 230 Yunnan trader on his pony (drawn by the author) . . .231 Lao girl smoking (drawn by the author) ..... 257 Talio, or charm (drawn by the author) ..... 266 My hut at Muang Fang (drawn by the author) . . . 271 Figure of Buddha from Muang Fang (from a photograph) . 278 Ngiou man (drawn by the author) ...... 298 View near Kiang Hai (drawn by the author) .... 302 Lao architecture: Chow Radjasee's house at Kiang Hai (drawn by the author) 304 Laosian princess at the toilet (drawn by the author) . . . 306 Mussu woman (drawn by the author) ..... 308 Laosian on a journey (drawn by the author) .... 323 Laosian with the thermometer at 50° (drawn by the author) . 325 Nan Inta, or " Arai," my landlord at Muang Fang (drawn by the author) . . . . • . . . . . 355 A tattooed Burmese (drawn by the author) . . . 365 Map toface &£r. Jolts Farm sum. J.E.Inous T_y__c.

Chapter I

At Singapore — Down the Malay coast — First glimpse of Siam — Entering the Menam River— Paknam — Temples and Telegraphs — Phrachedees — Bangkok from the river — Scene on the Menam — A visit to the Kromatah — Albinoes — The Kromatah's palace — A private interview. In June, 1881, I found myself once more in the East, sweltering in the moist heat of the island settlement of Singapore, and longing for the signal for the steamship Kongsee to start, hoping that her pro gress through the motionless air might in some degree compensate for the absence of the slightest breath of wind to temper the fierce rays of the equa torial sun. The shimmering sea seemed to intensify rather than alleviate, as the presence of water usually does, the oppressiveness of the atmosphere, for its glassy surface, like a polished mirror, reflected the bright light of the sun and seemed to focus his rays as in a lens.

My only cabin companion was Senhor Prostes, the newly-appointed Portuguese consul for Siam, who was just about to take up his duties at the capital of the Lord of the White Elephant. But in the forepart of the vessel was a motley crew : Hindoos from Madras, mostly tailors by profession ; Chinese coolies going in search of fortune among their co-religionists in Siam ; D Burmese, tattooed all over in grotesque designs of red and blue, bent on seeking wealth, but with the greater probability of finding death, in the pestilential climate of the famous sapphire-mines of Chantaboon ; with a sprinkling of Malays to complete the mixture. As we skirted the eastern coast of the Malay Peninsula, bound for the quaint and fascinating city of Bangkok, Captain Uldall, accomplished sailor and gentleman, pointed out the most prominent landmarks.

All the way up, the distant backbone of the long tongue of land, ever varying in outline, and forming a rich setting for the tamer foreground of the coast, afforded a pleasing panorama. Four days' steaming brought us to the mouth of the River Menam — or, to give it its full name, Chow Phya Menam l — when a pilot came aboard to take us over the treacherous bar, and steer us through the myriad fish-stakes and traps which fringe the shoals and banks like so many chevaux de frise. The bar passed, we came to a small island in the river, upon which is built a Wat, or temple, called " Paknam Phra Che die Samundh Aprakan," whose gilt spires, surrounded by those of several phrachedees or topes, towering far above the tree-tops, shone resplen dent in the evening sun. I felt that I was at last in the land of Temples and Elephants, the land where sober truth and strange fiction are so curiously interwoven that it is often difficult to distinguish the one from the other.

The first glimpse of Siam which the traveller obtains at Paknam is a fair sample of what is to be seen pretty well throughout the country. As Constantinople is called the City of Mosques, so Bangkok may, with even more reason, be termed the City of Temples. And not in Bangkok only and its immediate neighbourhood, 1 Chow = prince ; Phija = chief ; Me = mother ; Nam = water. TJie First Glimpse of Temples. 3 but in the remotest parts of the country, wherever a few people live now, or ever have lived, a Wat with its image, or collection of images, of Buddha, is to be found, surrounded by numberless phrachedees, those curious structures which every devout Buddhist — and all Buddhists are in one sense or another devout — erects at every turn as a means of gaining favour with the deity, or of making atonement for his sins.

On the rich plains, in the recesses of the forests, on the tops of high mountains, in all directions, these monuments of universal allegiance to a faith which, more perhaps than any other, claims a devotee in almost every individual inhabitant of the lands over which it has once obtained sway, are to be found. The labour, the time, and the wealth lavished upon these structures are beyond calculation. At Paknam alone, as the steamer passes by, and temple after temple opens to the view, the effect of the flashing spires of gold is bewildering. The place is a favourite resort of pilgrims, wbo go thither at the commence ment of the dry season, taking with them offerings of gold and other treasures, with which the priests are enabled to keep up the decorations. Besides the tall gilded spires, there is evidence of profuse expenditure in the black-varnished doors, picked out with gold, and decorated with gilded figures ; and in the marble flooring with which the whole of the temple-grounds are paved.

"Tres magnifiqae I" exclaimed my fellow-passenger in raptures. " Tres magnifique I " — and very magnificent was this little illustration of Siam as it is. But, while at the temple at Paknam we have this glimpse of what Siam has been and is, we have in an adjoining institution a foretaste of what, in some perhaps not distant future, Siam will be. u Opposite the temple, on the left bank of the river, are the custom-house, and, more notable still, the tele graph-office, whence information obtained from in coming vessels — for we are yet twenty-five miles from Bangkok — is sent to the king and other govern ment officials for their private use. This is the first introduction into Siam of the electric telegraph, that destroyer of ancient prejudices, that leveller of the walls of mystery and ignorance and self-concealment which have so long surrounded the greater part of the Asian continent.

This little line of five-and-twenty miles, however, is now being connected overland with the submarine cable at Saigon, and before the end ofthe present year (1883) Bangkok will be in regular telegraphic communication with the rest of the world — ■ not the least of the results of the wise and enlightened policy which the present ruler of Siam has adopted ever since his accession to supreme authority. Five miles above Paknam is Paklat-lang, on the western bank of the river, at the entrance to a canal which reduces by one half the rest of the distance — some twenty miles by river — to Bangkok. At present, however, this canal is only available for small boats, and we had to follow the sinuous course of the Menam. Arrived off the capital, we were boarded by two custom house officers — a Siamese and a Chinese — who performed their duties very courteously towards the only two European passengers, but had to adopt a minute system of search among the other visitors, especially the Chinese, who are adepts in the art of smuggling opium and other contraband articles.2 - The import duties are not high, and yield nothing like so much to the revenue as the export duties, the export trade being greatly in excess ofthe import trade.