Arctic Experiences: containing Capt. George E. Tyson's ... drift on the ice-floe, a history of the Polaris expedition, the cruise of the Tigress, and rescue of the Polaris survivors ... Edited by E. V. Blake

Front matter

A FEARFUL BTKUUOLE FOR LIFE. I ARCTIC EXPERIENCES: CONTAINING CAPT. GEORGE E. TYSON'S WOXDERFITL DRIFT OX THE ICE-FLOE, A HISTORY OF THE POLARIS EXPEDITION, TlIE CRUISE OF THE TIGRESS, AND RESCUE OF THE POLARIS SURVIVORS. TO WHICH 18 ADDED A GENERAL ARCTIC CHRONOLOGY Edited by E. VALE BLAKE. NEW YORK: HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE. 18 74. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 187-t, by Hakper & Brothers, Iu the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.

Preface

A leading object of this work is to present, in a popular form, the entire history of the Polaris Exploring Expedition, not only giving the valuable results accomplished by it, but going deep enough into causes to trace out the weak points in the organization of the party — indicating, without fear or favor, those elements of disintegration which were at work from the outset, calculated to impair, though it could not wholly destroy, its efficiency. The truth must be told, in order that succeeding expeditions may avoid the errors which prevented the development of that esprit de corps which is essential to the highest success of exploring parties. Notwithstanding its unfortunate features, the Polaris Expedi tion was not a failure, but a grand success ; for .though far more and better might have been accomplished with a united and har monious company, we can proudly point to the record of the voy age, in its geographical achievements, as unrivaled ; nor do the scientific results interest the world the less because of any cloud resting upon any member of the expedition.

Whoever reads this book to the end will naturally be led to ask, If so much could be accomplished by a divided and disaffect ed party, what might not be done by a united and properly dis ciplined body equally well equipped? In regard to the personal experiences of Captain Tyson, the natural reticence and modesty of that officer has compelled the editor to underestimate and suppress much that is fairly due to him ; and the reader is reminded that far more emphasis might fairly be given to his share, in whatever of success was achieved by the Polaris Expedition, but for this peculiarity of the Assist ant Navigator, " Who, like a statue solid set, And moulded in colossal calm," appears quite unaware that he has done any thing extraordina ry, or more than what any right-minded, honest man would have done under the same circumstances.

PREFACE.

. All the original data possessed by Captain Tyson (except his journal written on the Polaris, which was left on board at the time of the separation) was placed in the hands of the editor, with every necessary verbal explanation, before the former sailed in the Tigress. During the interval between his rescue and his re turn to the Arctic regions in search of the Polaris survivors, he recompiled from memory and a few brief notes his lost journal, and we are thus enabled to give it, with but slight verbal variations, from the original diary. Captain Tyson's "Early Experience" will show that amateur Arctic explorers, physically fitted for the work, may be found in every whaling ship that sails. In addition to the narrative portion, the introductory chapter contains a general resume" of Arctic experiences; and in the chronology will be found epitomized all the principal events of interest relating to previous and contemporary Polar expeditions, adding greatly to the value of the work as a book of reference.

In accordance with the popular character designed, scientific terms and mere details of work performed have been avoided. These will be published in other forms, for the special benefit of students and scientists. In conclusion, we have only to express our thanks to those who have kindly assisted us by supplying original documents, official or other information, and facilitating our work by grate fully remembered courtesies. Among those to whom we are greatly indebted are Hon. George M. Robeson, Secretary of the Navy; Hon. John G. Schumacher, of Brooklyn ; Prof. Spencer F. Baird, of Washington ; Dr. I. I. Hayes, of New York ; Mr. Archibald, British Consul at New York; Col. Jas. Lupton, Washington, D.C. ; Messrs. J. Carson Bre voort, and S. B. Noyes, of Brooklyn, N. Y. ; Messrs. H. R. Bond, T. W. Perkins, E. W. White, and Mr. Barnes, of New London, Ct.

Others might be named but for whose kindly offices our labors would have been greatly embarrassed ; and, if their names do not illumine this page, they have none the less shed a bright and cheering light on our progress from the earliest inception of this work to its end, and their many courtesies will ever dwell in our grateful remembrance. E. V. B. Brooklyn, January 1. 1874. CONTENTS. INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. The Northern Sphinx.— Arctic Nomenclature.— Geographical Mistakes.— The Hyperboreans.— The Pre-Columbian Era.— Frobisher's Gold.— Gilbert and Others.— Henry Hudson. — Russian Explorers. — Government Rewards. — Early American Enterprise.— The Whaler Scoresby . —Remarkable Land Journeys.— Combined Sea and Land Explorations.— The Era of Modern Discoveries.— Parry's Drift.— Steam first used in the Arctic Seas. —The Magnetic Pole fixed. — Back's Discoveries.— Dease and Simpson.— Rae on Boothia.— Sir John Franklin's Last Expedition.— Relief Parties.— A glorious Spectacle.— First Grinnell Expedition.— Ten Exploring Vessels meet at Beechey Island.— Dr. Kane.— Rumors of Cannibalism.— The Problem of the North-west Passage solved.— Bellot.— Obtuseness of the British Naval Board. — Providential Mental Coercion. — The Forlorn Hope.— Dr. Hayes. — Profit and Loss. — What is the Use of Arctic Explorations? — Remote Advantages. — Ancient Gradgrinds. — Arctic Failures and Successes. — Unexplored Area. — Modern Chivalry. — A pure Ambition Page lit

Chapter II

captain tyson's early arctic experience. Captain Tyson's Reflections on the Ice-floe. — Nativity. — Early Life. — Ships as a Whaler. — Death of Shipmate. — Arrives at the Greenland Seas. — The "Middle Ice." — The "North Water." — First Sight of Esquimaux. — The Danes in Greenland. — The Devil's Thumb. — Meets De Haven. — Whales and their Haunts. — A prolonged Struggle with a Whale. — Sailors' Tricks. — Cheating the Mollimokes. — Young Tyson volunteers to winter ashore at Cumberland Gulf. — The Pet Seal. — Life Ashore. — Relieved by the True Love. — Is taken to England. — Returns to the Arctic Regions. — Sights the abandoned British Ship Resolute. — With three Companions boards the Resolute. — Finds Wine in the Glasses. — All have a good Time. — Don the Officers' Uniforms. — Returns to his Ship. — Ships as Second Mate in the George Henry.— As First Officer. — As Captain of the Brig Georgiana. — Meets Captain Charles F. Hall. — Witnesses and tries to prevent the Loss of the Rescue. — Sails as Master of the Orray Taft, of New Bedford. — Of the Antelope. — Sails to Repulse Bay, and takes the first Whale captured in those Waters. — Again meets Captain Hall, and supplies him with a Boat. — Peculiar Electrical Phenomena at Repulse Bay. — Sails in the Top-sail Schooner Era. — Meets Captain Hall, then "in training " with the Esquimaux. — Log-book Records. — Winters ashore at Niountelik Harbor. — Removes from New London to Brooklyn. — Sails in the Polaris as Assistant Navigator CONTENTS.

Chapter III. The Polaris Expedition

The North Polar Expedition authorized by Congress.— Captain Hall's Commission. —The Periwinkle, afterward Polaris, selected.— Letter of Captain Hall's.— Description of the Steamer Polaris. — Liberal Supplies. — A patent Canvas Boat. — Books presented by J. Carson Brevoort. — A characteristic Letter of Captain Hall's.— An Invitation to visit him at the North Pole Page 100

Chapter IV

The Polaris put into Commission. — Official Instructions to the Commander. — Scientific Directions. — Letter of Captain Hall's. — List of the Officers and Crew 107

Chapter V. Biographical Sketch Op Captain Hall

Nativity and early Life of Charles Francis Hall. — Leaves his native State of New Hampshire and settles in Ohio. — Takes to. Journalism. — Attracted by Arctic Literature. — Unsuccessful Effort to join M'Clintock. — Sails for the Arctic Regions in the George Henry, of New London. — The Tender Rescue and the Expedition Boat lost in a Storm. — He explores Frobisher Bay and Countess of Warwick Sound. — Collects Relics of Franklin's Expedition. — Returns to the United States. — His Theories regarding the Franklin Expedition. — Sails for the North, 1864, in the Bark Montieello. — His Discoveries. — Skeletons of Franklin's Men scattered over King William Land. — Annual Reports. — His Life with the Esquimaux. — Return to the United States. — Physical Appearance. — Mental Traits. — In the Innuit Land he did as the Innuits do. — Persevering Efforts to organize the North Polar Expedition. — President Grant personally interested. — "That Historical Flag." — How he would know when he got to the Pole. — His Premonitions. — His last Dispatch 113

Chapter VI

Dr. Emil Bessel. — Sergeant Frederick Meyers. — Mr. R, W. D. Bryan. — Sidney 0. Buddington. — Hubbard C. Chester. — Emil Schuman. — William Morton. — Letter of Captain Hall's. — The Polaris sails. — Disaffection on Board. — Meets the Swedish Exploring Expedition. — Favorable condition of the Ice. — United States Ship Congress arrives at Disco with Supplies for the Polaris. — Insubordination on Board. — Captain Hall's Idiosyncrasy. — He "bids Adieu to the Civilized World ". ... 129

Chapter VII. Notes By Captain Tyson On Board

TnE POLARIS. Captain Tyson's Soliloquy on leaving Harbor. — A Thunder-storm. — Arrive at St. Johns.— Icebergs in Sight. — Religious Services on board the Polaris by Dr. Newman, of Washington. — Prayer at Sea. — Esquimau Hans, with Wife, Children, and "Vermin," taken on board. — Firing at Walrus. — The Sailing-master wants to stop at Port Foulk. — The Polaris passes Kane's Winter-quarters. — An impassable Barrier of Ice,— Misleading Charts.— The open Polar Sea recedes from Sight. — CONTENTS. 9 Afraid of "Symme's Hole." — Polaris enters Robeson Channel. — Surrounded by Icefields. — Council of Officers. — Puerile Fears. — Sir Edward Belcher. — The Ameri can Flag raised on "Hall Land." — Seeking a Harbor. — Repulse Harbor. — Thank God Harbor. — Providence Berg. — Housing the Ship for Winter-quarters. .Page 141

Chapter VIII

A Hunting-party. — A cold Survey. — Description of Coast-hills. — A Musk-ox shot. — Landing Provisions. — Arctic Foxes. — Captain Hall prepares for a Sledge-journey. — Conversation with Captain Tyson. — Off at last. — Captain Hall "forgets something." — Twenty "somethings." — The Sun disappears. — Banking the Ship.... 152

Chapter IX

Putting Provisions Ashore. — Return of Captain Hall. — "Prayer on leaving the Ships. "—Captain Hall taken Sick. — What was seen on his Sledge-journey. — Apoplexy ? — M'Clintock's Engineer — Death of Captain Hall. — A strange Remark. — Preparing the Grave. — The Funeral. — "I walk on with my Lantern." — Thus end his ambitious Projects 159

Chapter X

Captain Buddington passes to the Command. — Scientific Observations. — The first Aurora of the Season. — Sunday Prayers discontinued. — Dr. Bessel Storm-bound in the Observatory. — Meyers to the Rescue. — An Arctic Hurricane. — Fast to the Iceberg. — Sawing through the Ice. — Electric Clouds. — Pressure of Floe-ice. — The Iceberg splits in two. — The Polaris on her Beam-ends. — Hannah, Hans's Wife, and the Children put Ashore 1CC

Chapter XI

Thanksgiving. — A Paraselene. — Dr. Bessel's bad Luck. — "It is very dark now." — Oppressive Silence of the Arctic Night.— The Voracity of Shrimps.— "In Hall's Time it was Heaven to this." — A natural Gentleman. — No Service on Christmas. —The Po/aris rises and falls with the Tide.— Futile Blasting.— The New Year.— Atmospheric Phenomena.— The Twilight brightens. —Trip to Cape Lupton.— Height of the Tides at Thank God Harbor 169

Chapter XII

An impressive Discussion.— Daylight gains on the Night.— Barometer drops like a Cannon-ball.— Four mock Moons.— Day begins to look like Day.— The Fox-traps. —The Sun re-appears after an Absence of one hundred and thirty-five Days.— Mock Suns.— Spring coming.— An Exploring-party in Search of Cape Constitution. —A Bear-fight with Dogs.— New light on Cartography.— Tired of canned Meat . 174

Chapter XIII

Sledge vs. Boat.— What Chester would do when he got Home.— Photographing a Failure.— Off on a Sledge-journey with Mr. Meyers, Joe, and Hans.— Habits of CONTENTS. 10 the Musk -cattle. —Peculiar strategic Position.— Encounter a Herd.— How the Young are concealed.— Dull Sport.— Newman Bay.— Preparing for Boat-journeys. — What does he mean? — Climatic Changes. — Glaciers. — Wonderful Sports men. — The Ice thick and hummocky. — A dangerous Leak Page 179

Chapter XIV

Two Boat-parties arranged. — A Disaster. — Chester's Boat crushed in the Ice. — The " Historical Flag" lost. — Chester takes the patent Canvas Boat. — Captain Tyson's Boat-party. — Reach Newman Bay. — Dr. Bessel's Snow-blindness. — Drift-wood. — Extinct Glaciers. — Unfavorable Condition of the Ice. — A Proposal rejected. — Return to the Ship 185

Chapter XV

Engineer's Report. — A new Inscription. — A gentle Awakening. — Providence Berg disrupted. — Having "enough of it." — Lost Opportunities. — The Advent of little Esquimau "Charlie Polaris." — Beset near Cape Frazier. — Alcohol Master. — Interruption of his morning "Nip." — Drifting with the Floe. — Pack-ice in Smith Sound. — The Oil-boiler. — The bearded Seal. — Preparations for spending another Winter in the North. — A south-westerly Gale 190

Chapter XVI. Journal Of George

E. TYSON, ASSISTANT NAVIGATOR ON UNITED STATES STEAMER POLARIS, KEPT ON THE ICE-FLOE. Adrift. —The fatal Ice Pressure. — "Heave every thing Overboard!" — The Ship breaks away in the Darkness. — Children in the Ox-skins. — First Night adrift. — Snowed under. — Roll-call on the Ice-floe. — Efforts to regain the Ship. — The Polaris coming! — A terrible Disappointment. — The overladen Boat. — Three Oars, and no Rudder. — The Ice breaks beneath us. — Drifting to the South-west. — Regain the large Floe. — Hope of regaining the Polaris abandoned. — Building Huts. — Native Igloos. — Estimating Provisions. — Locality of the Separation. — Meyers's and Tyson's Opinion. — Two Meals a Day. — Mice in the Chocolate. — Too cold for a Watch. — Too weak to stand firmly. — Hans kills and eats two Dogs. — Natives improvident. — Lose Sight of the Sun. — The Dogs follow the Food 197

Chapter XVII

A vain Hunt for Seal. — Pemmican. — The Dogs starving. — Blow-holes of the Seal. — Mode of Capture. — Sight Cary Island. — Hans mistaken for a Bear. — Down with Rheumatism. — One Boat used for Fuel. — The Children crying with Hunger. — Joe the best Man. — The Bread walks off. — One square Meal. — Bear and Fox-tracks. Effects of lax Discipline.— Joe and Hannah. — Our Thanksgiving-dinner 215

Chapter XVIII

Can see the Land. — Hans's Hut. — Nearly dark : two Hours of Twilight. — Economizing Paper. — Northern Lights. — Lying still to save Food. — "All Hair and Tail." — Weighing out Rations by Ounces. — Heavy Ice goes with the Current. — The Es- CONTENTS. 11 quimaux afraid of Cannibalism. — Fox-trap. — Set a Seal-net — Great Responsibility, but little Authority. — All well, but hungry. — The fear of Death starved and frozen out of me. — The shortest and darkest Day. — Christmas Page 225

Chapter XIX

Taking account of Stock. — Hope lies to the South. — Eating Seal-skin. — Find it very tough. — How to divide a Seal a la Esquimau. — Give the Baby the Eyes. — Different Species of Seal. — New-year's Day, 1873. — Economizing our Lives away. — Just see the Western Shore. — "Plenty at Disco." — Thirty-six below Zero. — Clothing disappears. — A glorious Sound. — ' ' Kyack ! Kyack ! " — Starvation postponed. — Thoroughly frightened. — Little Tobias sick. — Oh, for a sound-headed Man ! — Four ounces for a Meal. — The Sun re-appears after an Absence of eighty-three Days ,,... 234

Chapter XX

Belated Joe. — Wrong Calculations. — Drift past Disco. — Beauty of the Northern Constellations. — Hans unreliable. — "Where Rum and Tobacco grow." — Forty below Zero. — An impolite Visitor. — One hundred and third Day on the Ice. — Perseverance of the Natives in hunting. — Hans loses a good Dog. — Beautiful Aurora. — The Mercury freezes. — Too cold for the Natives to hunt. — A little Blubber left. — Trust in Providence. — Effects of Refraction. — Relieving Parties on the Ice. — Our Lunch, Seal-skin with the Hair on. — A natural Death. — One hundred and seven Days without seeing printed Words 246

Chapter XXI

A solemn Entry made in the Journal, in View of Death. — More Security on the Ice-floe than on board the Polaris. — Eating the Offal of better Days. — Tobias very low. — Anticipations of a Break-up. — Hope. — Joe, Hannah, and little Puney. — "I am so hungry." — An interior View of Hans's Hut ; his Family. — Talk about reaching the Land. — Inexperience of the Men misleads their Judgment 259

Chapter XXII

Drearv, vet beautiful. — The Formation of Icebergs. — Where and how they grow. — Variety of Form and History. — "The Land of Desolation." — Strength failing. — Travel and Rations. — Unhealthy Influence of mistaken Views. — Managing a Kyack on young Ice. — Secures the Seal. — "Clubbing their Loneliness." — Poor little Puney's Amusement. — Any Thing good to eat that don't poison. — Narwhals, or Sea-unicorns. — A royal Seat. — Hans criticised. — Cleaning House. — "Pounding-day." — Our Carpet. — Lunching by the Yard on Seal's Entrails. — "Oh! give me my Harpoon." — No Clothing fit to hunt in. — Inventory of Wardrobe. — Narwhals useful in carrving off Ball and Ammunition. — Pleasant Sensations in Retrospect. — The Skin of the Nose. — Castles in the Air. — Violent Gale and Snow-stoim. — Digging out. — Three Feet square for Exercise. — Dante's Ice-hell 266

Chapter XXIII

Patching up Clothes. — Captain Hall's Rifle. — Cutting Fresh-water Ice for Drink. — Salt-water Ice to season Soup. — Four months' Dirt. — Sun Revelations. — "You are nothing but Bone." — That chronic Snow-drift. —Seal-flipper for Lunch. — Watching a Seal-hole. — Eating his "Jacket." — Dovekies. — The Solace of a Smoke. — Native Mode of cleansing Cooking Utensils. — The West Coast in Sight. — Joe's CONTENTS. Valuation of Seals. —Prospects dark and gloomy.— Bill falls Overboard.— Death to the Front. — Evidences of Weakness. — The Natives alarmed. — Washington's Birthday. — A novel Sledge. — The "right Way of the Hair." — Discussions about reaching Shore Page 279

Chapter XXIV

Decide to make the Attempt. — Foiled by successive Snow-storms. — Down to one scant Meal a Day. — Land thirty-five Miles off. — God alone can help us. — Canary-bird Rations. — Bear-tracks. — A Bird Supper. — A Monster Oogjook. — Six or seven hundred Pounds of fresh Meat! Thirty Gallons of Oil! — Oogjook Sausage. — Our Huts resemble Slaughter-houses. — Hands and Faces smeared with Blood. — Content restored. — Taking Observations. — Out of the Weed. — A Present from Joe. — Heat of Esquimaux Huts. — Desponding Thoughts. — "So I sit and dream of Plans for Release." — Terrific Noises portend the breaking up of the Floe. — An unbroken Sea of Ice. — Hans Astray again. — That "Oogjook Liver." — The Steward convinced. — An Ice-quake in the Night. — The Floe breaks twenty yards from the Hut. — Floe shattered into hundreds of Pieces. — Sixty Hours of Ice, Turmoil, and utter Darkness. — The "Floes" become a "Pack." — Storm abates. — Quietly Drifting. — A Choice for Bradford. — Our Domain wearing away. — Twenty Paces only to the Water. — Whistling to charm an Oogjook. — A Relapse into Barbarism 288

Chapter XXV

A Bear prospecting for a Meal. — The Ice in an Uproar. — Seven Seals in one Day. — Spring by Date. — The "Bladder-noses" appear. — Off Hudson Strait. — A Bear comes too close. — A lucky Shot in the Dark. — Description of Ursus maritimus. — Milk in the young Seal. — Fools of Fortune. — We take to the Boat. — Rig Wash-boards. — A desperate Struggle to keep Afloat. — Alternate between Boat and Floe. — Striving to gain the west Shore. — Dead-weights. — Ice splits. — Joe's Hut carried off. — Rebuild it, — Ice splits again, and destroys Joe's new Hut. — Standing ready . for a Jump. — Our Breakfast goes down into the Sea. — No Blubber for our Lamps. — The Ice splits once more, separating Mr. Meyers from the Party. — We stand helpless, looking at each other. — Meyers unable to manage the Boat. — Joe and Hans go to his Relief. — All of us but two follow-. — Springing from Piece to Piece of the Ice. — Meyers rescued. — He is badly frozen. — Mishaps in the Water. — High Sea running. — Washed out of our Tent by the Sea. — Women and Children stowed in the Boat. — Not a diy Place to stand on. — Ice recloses. — Sea subsides. — Land Birds appear. — No Seal. — Very Hungry 305

Chapter XXVI

Easter-Sunday.— Flashes of Divinity.— Meyers's Suffering from want of Food.— Men very Weak.— Fearful Thoughts.— A timely Relief.— Land once more in Sight. — Flocks of Ducks.— Grotesque Misery.— A Statue of Famine.— A desolating Wave. —A Foretaste of worse. — Manning the Boat in a new Fashion. — A Battery of Ice-blocks.— All Night "standing by" the Boat.— A fearful Struggle for Life.— Worse off than St. Paul. — Daylight at last. — Launched once more. — Watch and Watch. — The Sport and Jest of the Elements. — Lack of Food. — Half drowned, CONTENTS. 13 cold, and hungry. — Eat dried Skin saved for Clothing. — A Bear ! a Bear! — Anx ious Moments. — Poor Polar! God has sent us Food. — Recuperating on Bear-meat. — A crippled, overloaded Boat. — A Battle of the Bergs. — Shooting young Blad der-noses. — Hopkig for Relief. Page 317

Chapter XXVII

A joyful Sight ! — A Steamer in View. — Lost again. — She disappears. — Once more we seek Rest upon a small Piece of Ice. — The Hope of Rescue, keeps us awake. — Another Steamer. — We hoist our Colors, muster our Fire-arms, fire, and shout. — She does not see us. — She falls off. — Re -appears. — Gone again. — Still another Steamer. — Deliverance can not be far off. — Another Night on the Ice. — Hans catches a Baby Seal. — "There's a Steamer!" — Very Foggy, and we fear to lose her. — Hans goes for her in his Kyack. — She approaches. — We are saved! — All safe on board the Tigress. — Amusing Questions. — A good Smoke and a glorious Breakfast. — Once more able "to wash and be clean." — Boarded by Captain De Lane, of the Walrus. — Meyers slowly recovering. — A severe Gale. — Six hundred Seals killed. — Captain Bartlett heading for St. Johns. — The Esquimaux Children the "Lions." — Awaiting the Tailor. — Going Home in the United States Steamship Frolic 326

Chapter XXVIII. The Search For The Polaris And The Survivors Of The

EXPEDITION. The News of the Rescue. — Captain Tyson and Party arrive at Washington. — Board of Inquiry organized. — Testimony given as to lax Discipline. — The Juniata, Commander Braifie, dispatched, with Coal and Stores, to Disco. — Captain James Buddington, Ice-pilot. — Captain Braine's Interview with Inspector Karrup Smith, of North Greenland. — Juniata at Upernavik. — Small Steam-launch Little Juniata essays to cross Melville Bay. — Repelled by the Ice. — President Grant in Council with Members of the National Academy of Sciences. — Purchase of the Tigress. — Description of the Vessel. — Necessary Alterations. — List of Officers. — Captain Tyson Acting Lieutenant and Ice-pilot. — A Reporter to the New York Herald ships as ordinary Seaman. — Esquimau Joe ships as Interpreter. — Several Seamen belonging to the Ice-floe Company ship in the Tigress. — Extra Equipments 340

Chapter XXIX

The Tigress, Commander James A. Greer, sets sail.— Enthusiasm at her Departure. —Hans and Family as Passengers. — " Knowledge is Power."— Arrive at Tessuisak.— Governor Jansen.— Tigress proceeds North.— Approach Northumberland Island.— Not the place of Separation.— Make Littleton Island.— Excitement on Board on hearing Human Voices.— Encampment of the Polaris Survivors found. —Commander Greer's Success.— Esquimaux in Possession of the deserted House. — Captain Tyson's Advice to seek the Whalers 350

Chapter XXX. Captain Tyson's Cruise In The Tigress

Captain Tyson's Journal on board the Tigress. — " Too late." — Fire training on board.—' Mai de mer.—A tall Story.— Angling for Porpoises with Pork.— A nautical Joke.— Beware of the Tigress.— Fog at Sea.— Naive Comments on Icebergs.— CONTENTS. Tender Hearts among the Blue-jackets.— Illusions. — Aurora. — Whistling to fright en the Bergs.— Splendid Northern Lights.— Heavy Gales.— The Doctor's Clerk.— Two old Whalers.— We leave Night behind us.— Poor Hans's Affliction.— Family returned to Greenland. — The Tigress pitching and rolling. — The Fog-blanket. — Cheese for Bait. — An Iceberg turns a Somersault. — A beautiful Display. — A slight Accident. — Meet the Steam-launch. — Official Correspondence with Com mander Greer. — Ashore at Littleton Island and Life-boat Cove. — Sounding for the foundered Polaris. — Abundance of Food abandoned '>y the Polaris Sur vivors Page 356

Chapter XXXI

Homeward-bound. — Fire! Fire! — An honored Custom. — Contrast of the Sailor's Life. — A Set-off to the Midnight Sun. — Heavy Gale. — All want to shoot a Bear. — Executive Officer White the "killing" Man. — A Barrow Escape. — Thoughts of Home. — At Upernavik for Repairs. — The Danish and half-breed Girls. — Dress. — Dancing. — A startling Record. — At Goodhavn Harbor. — Captain Tyson visits the Juniata. — Continued bad Weather. — Sight Cape Mercy. — The Sea sweeps the Galley. — The Cook disgusted. — Effects of the Gale in the Wardroom. — "At home" in Niountelik Harbor, Cumberland Gulf 368

Chapter XXXII

A Change for the better. — Repairing Damages. — Company in the Gulf. — Looking for Scotch Whalers. — The Natives bring Deer-meat to the Ship. — Arctic Birds flying South. — Captain Hall's old Protege's. — Demoralization of the Natives of the west Coast. — Collecting "Specimens." — Bad Case of "Stone Fever." — "Time and Tide wait for no Man." — Billy's Curiosities. — Captain Tyson meets his late Rescuer, Captain Bartlett. — Mica Speculation. — Short of Coal. — How we lost our Dinner. — A saltatory Dining-table. — Sight a Scotch Whaler. — Arrival at Ivgitut, South Greenland. — Meet the Fox, of Arctic Fame. — Kryolite, Coal, Fish, and another Gale. — Friend Schnider, the fat Dane. — Canaries, Pigeons, etc., domesticated here. — The Crew overworked. — A Hurricane. — Antics of the Furniture. — Force of Sea-waves 376

Chapter XXXIII

The Gale abates. — Consultation as to Course. — Useless Cruising. — Start for Home. — More bad Weather. — Land-birds blown out to Sea. — Reminiscences of the Ice-floe Drift. — A narrow Escape.— A black Fog. — Interviewing a Hawk at the Mast-head. — Arrive at St. Johns. — News of the Polaris Party. — Return to Brooklyn. — What the Tigress accomplished. — Lessons in Arctic Navigation. — Bravery of the Officers. — A siormy but agreeable Cruise 383

Chapter XXXIV. Theory Of North Polar Currents

The Hydrography of Smith Sound.— The Currents forbid the Theory of an " Open Polar Sea."— Movements of the Ice.— A northern Archipelago a reasonable Supposition. —Velocity of Current along the east and west Coasts. —No Current in the Middle.— Experience of the Polaris.— Absence of large Bergs in Smith Sound. —Open nearly all Winter.— Radiant Heat preserved by Cloud Strata.— Deflection of the Current at Cape York.— Robeson Channel described.— Land seen from the CONTENTS. 15 Mast-head both east and west. — Coast-line beyond Cape Union. — Two Headlands to the east-north-east of Repulse Harbor. — Absence of Snow on Coast of North Greenland above Humboldt Glacier. — Elevated Plateaus in the Interior. — The Land around Polaris Bay. — Clam-shells at an Elevation of two thousand Feet. — Variegated but odorless Flora. — Animal Life. — Insects. — Skeletons of Musk-cattle Page 388

Chapter XXXV

How to reach the North Pole. — Smith Sound the true Gate-way. — This course offers the Alternative of Land Travel. — Plenty of Game in Summer. — April and May the Months for Sledging. — Proper Model of Vessel's Hull. — Twenty -five Men enough. — A Tender necessary. — A Depot at Port Foulke with a detail of Men. — Ice at Rensselaer Harbor. — Avoid Pack-ice in Smith Sound. — Go direct for west Coast. — Form Caches at intervals of fifty Miles. — Deposit Reserve Boats. — Style of Traveling-sledge. — Native preferred. — Selecting Dogs. — Keep them well fed. — Keep Stores on Deck. — Winter as far north as the Ship can get. — How to get out of a Trap. — Provision a Floe, and trust to the Current. — Take your Boats along. — Replenish at Caches. — Two Months from a high Latitude sufficient. — It will yet be done 393

Chapter XXXVI. The Fate Of The Polaris

The Polaris Survivors. — Ship driven to the North-east. — Her Position on the Night of October 15. — Darkness and Confusion. — Anchors and Boats gone. — The Leak gains. — Steam up. — Roll-call on Board. — Lookout for the Floe Party. — Storm abated. — Inspection of Stores. — The Polaris fast to grounded Hummocks. — " Let her fill!" — Life-boat Cove. — The Polaris left a Legacy to an Esquimau Chief. — She founders in his Sight 398