A Narrative of Personal Experiences & Impressions during a Residence on the Bosphorus throughout the Crimean war

Chapter I

Sultan, his death in 1S80, and how it led me to think of writing out this narrative from my memorials — News of the battle of Inkermann and the sufferings of sick and wounded determines us to go to the seat of war — Arrived at Marseilles, we embark in the ship "La Gange," with French troops on board — A gigantic Arab Marabout and his fourteen wives — Our voyage calm, after a previous violent storm — Arrival off Constantinople late in the day — Unceremonionsly obliged to leave the ship — Dark when we reach Galata pier — Unpleasant and perilous landing there — Help from a stray British sailor and a soldier — Deluge of rain and torrents of mud on the drea Iful streets of Galata — Arrival at the gate closed by a Turkish guard — Our first acquaintance with the term " Bono fohnny" — Arrived at last at Messirie's hotel, to our great relief .

Chapter II

Truth stranger than fiction — First crossing the Bosphorus to Scutari — A friendly captain and his boat — The Turkish Custom-House, confusion confounded — Arrival at Scutari pier and unexpected sight of Lieutenant Keatley, an old friend — His invaluable help to us — He had rescued our luggage from " La Gange " and the Custom-House — First visit to the Great Barrack Hospital — Quarters assigned in a favourable situation — Method of furnishing — M. Stampa and hamals — Ship on fire, and rum kegs — Consequent troubles ........

Chapter III

Muezzins' call — Stoves purchased — Delay in arrival — Disappointment — Singular effect on Scutari of fires in Constantinople — Difficulties about servants— Pilfering of rations — Emilio — Lack of good bread and water Contents. VI

Chapter IV. Page

Sick and wounded in hospitals — Inadequate preparations — Burials — Application to Miss Nightingale — Undertake soldiers' wives — Their sad condition — Lack of medical attendance — Dr. Payton Smith — Establishment of Women's Hospital — Mrs. Keatley, matron — My shop and customers . . . -4"

Chapter V

Entomological experiences — Rats — Our reception rooms and etiquette at Scutari — Dress for dinner, and what we had — Dinner party, and what we had not 61

Chapter VI

Visit to Therapia of three days — Arrival of Mrs. Keatley— Appointment of Dr. Holton to the Women's Hospital — Earthquake — Sans froid of the dragoon, ward master — Death of Major Campbell — Arrival of M. Soyer — Opening of school for children — Miss Nightingale's sympathy — Turkish women " at home "• — Procession of Sultanas in Constantinople . . 74

Chapter VII

Naval Hospital, Therapia — Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Mackenzie — Haida Pasha Hospital — Mrs. Wiloughby Moore — Purchase of" Pig " Mercantile dealings with Spanish Jew — Purchase of " Sultan " — Uses of a salad bowl — Everything down the well . . 91

Chapter VIII

Second earthquake — Excursion to Kadi Koi — Sergeant Clay's inquiries concerning his deceased wife — Miss Nightingale's illness — Two Protestant Armenians condemned — Mistaken identity — Released 107

Chapter IX

Adventures of a pie — Dr. Cyrus Hamlin — A round of beef — Grand disappointment — Excursion to the Princes Islands — A liberal Mussulman — Our landlady and her daughter — Scene while repairing her house . . . . . . , . .120

Chapter X

The Ramadan — The Bairim at Constantinople — The Sultan, Abdul Medjid — Ceremony on the occasion — Hospitality of a Bey — Visit to Santa Sophia — Sad sight in the Bosphorus on our return .......... Contents. VII ■63 17S 190

Chapter XI. Page

Inaccuracy of intelligence — Captain Hedley Vicars — Lady Rayleigh's letter — Refugees from Kertch, and their destitute condition — Assistance from the Embassy and Turkish Government — French Sisters of Mercy — Sister Bemadine — School opened for the children of Kertch Jews . . . . .149

Chapter XII

Mr. Bracebridge and our excursion to the "Golden Fleece" — French cavalry stable — Lieutenant Keatley's ship — Bazaars in Stamboul — Confusion of monies — Palace of Dolma Batche — Dr. and Mrs. Bowen Thompson : his illness and death at Kulalee — Great thunderstorm .

Chapter XIII

Reading-rooms for soldiers — Night-schools and lectures in place of temptations to drunkenness — Lecture on birds by the Rev. Mr. Connors— Little Dolly — Influence of officers in different regiments

Chapter XIV

Second visit to Therapia, and kindness of Lady Stratford de Redcliffe — Beautiful season on the Bosphorus — Giant's Mountain — "Sweet water" — Excursion with Lady Stratford de Redcliffe to the entrance of the Black Sea — Return home .

Chapter XV

Providential encounter with a friend — Polish Legion— Scant clothing of the women supplied — German Legion — Outbreak of cholera — Sad deaths — Sergeant H. : melancholy story of his wife — Chaplains in danger by shipwreck .... 205

Chapter XVI

Religious liberty — Hatti Sherif — Imperial Firman — Conceding liberty and other reforms — Turkish school at Scutari — Interesting Turkish master — Haida Pasha — Death of Mrs. Wiloughby Moore — A matrimonial dilemma — Miss Nightingale's perplexity — Mr. and Mrs. Brapebridge's return home, and arrival out of Mrs. Shore Smith — Visit to the wife of Kaffi Pasha Contents. VIII PAGE !37 264

Chapter XVII

Fire at Haida Pasha — Narrow escape from bullets in rifle practice — Proclamation of peace— Calamity to Admiral the Hon. Frederick and Mrs. Grey — Proposed visit to the Crimea — Disappointment by first ship — A second opportunity — Sailed by the " Edina"— Crowded state of the little ship— Arrival at Balaklava ......-••■

Chapter XVIII

Letter of a friend on Balaklava — Zebra Vicarage — Visits to Sebastopol — St. George's Monastery — Inkermann — Tchernaya Valley — Frogs and snakes — Kamiesh sand-storm — Mrs. Seacole • 250

Chapter XIX

Preparations for an excursion to the interior — Kindness of Col. the Hon. W. Pakenham — Mr. Stern, the Abyssinian missionary — Hotel at Bakcheserai, and dreadful accommodation .

Chapter XX

Palace of the Khans — Continuation of journey to Tchoufout Kaleh — Greek monastery opposite — Interesting incidents with the Jews — Visit to the Synagogue — Thunderstorm and consequent plight — Night spent at the Abbot's house . . . .273

Chapter XXI

Continued route to Simferopol — Happy mistake of road — Arrival, and Inns full — Lodged at the farmhouse of a Polish Jew — Night of unrest — Mr. Stern's visit to the Synagogue — Rest on Sunday — All books eagerly purchased . . . . . 2S7

Chapter XXII

Journey back to camp — Alma Hotel — Arrival at Bakcheserai — Tents pitched outside the town — Untoward storms of wind and rain — Tent robbed during night — Expected breakfast stolen — Accident to horse — Arrival at the "Vicarage" — Visit to Baida — Last three days spent in revisits to Inkermann, St. George's Monastery, and Sebastopol — Embarkation in the " Queen of the South" — Adventure in the Bosphorus — Passage to England in the "Oneida" — Sultan brought home — Life and death ......... 296 Appendix A NARRATIVE OF PERSONAL EXPERIENCES.

Chapter I

Sultan, his death in 1880, and how it led me to think of writing out this narrative from my memorials — News of the battle of Inkerman and the sufferings of sick and wounded determines us to go to the seat of war— Arrived at Marseilles we embark in the ship " La Gange " with French troops on board — A gigantic Arab Marabout and his fourteen wives. — Our voyage calm, after a previous violent storm — Arrival off Constantinople late in the day — Unceremoniously obliged to leave the ship — Dark when we reach Galata pier — Unpleasant and perilous landing there — Help from a stray British sailor and a soldier — Deluge of rain and torrents of mud on the dreadful streets of Galata — Arrival at the gate closed by a Turkish guard — Our first acquaintance with the term "Bono Johnny " — Arrived at last at Messirie's hotel, to our great relief.

HAVING resided at Scutari throughout the period when the Bosphorus and its hospitals became of such deep and thrilling interest in con nection with the Crimean War, I naturally made notes of such things as came under my personal observation, or occurred within my knowledge. For many years these memorials lay undisturbed A Battle of Inkerman. 2 after our return to England, until my attention was attracted to them anew by the following circum stance : — I had brought from Turkey a singularly docile and useful little horse, which had been named " Sultan" by my nephews in England. He had attained the age of at least thirty-four years, and was an obj'ect of interest to many friends until he died in 1880. His death seemed to recall to memory the many scenes in which he had served me so usefully, and had become a sort of sharer in them.

Copious histories and numerous treatises have no doubt been written upon all the great matters of the Crimean campaign ; my narrative makes no preten sion to describe affairs so well known as are the peculiarities of that remarkable war. But many things unnoticed in larger works may yet be worth recording, and I trust that the true statements and anecdotes which I have been led to note may be found not to be without a special interest in their own kind. Therefore, without further prologue, I proceed. When the news reached England of the battle of Inkerman, that terribly hard-fought struggle which took place on the 5th of November 1854, and wherein so many lost relatives and friends, and from whence came calls for help to the sick and wounded, my husband and I were deeply moved to go out; having at the time no special duty to detain us, it was far more trying to remain at home than to answer the Marseilles. 3 appeal, and with willing hearts and hands to be ready to do whatever might be needed to the best of our abilities.

Finding, however, that we could be of very little service without a specific appointment which only could give admittance to the hospitals, Dr. Black wood applied for and obtained a chaplaincy to the forces. At that time two young Swedish ladies — Emma and Ebba Almroth — were staying with us, who, equally eager to be useful, at once expressed their wish to accompany us. In the preparations for the departure of so large a party, we were liberally assisted by many kind friends, especially Lady Ash town and her sister Mrs. Gascoigne, Lady Maria Forester, Miss Micheli, and others, who shared with us the same longing desire to help, but who were not at liberty to go out personally as vve were. So soon therefore as arrangements were made we set out to Paris and Lyons, thence, partly by steamer on the Rhone and partly by railway, we reached Marseilles on the third day.

Now, the j'ourney is more speedily accomplished, the railway going the whole distance; but at that time it was not so ; the steamer on the Rhone made an agreeable variety to usual travellers, but it was a decided delay to those more intent on the rapidity which business requires than on pleasure making. At Marseilles we learned that the first vessel sailing A Gigantic Arab. 4 to Constantinople would be " La Gange," and that it would start the next afternoon with French troops, but that a passage in her could be secured for us, which was done. Accordingly we embarked the following day, our party consisting of my husband and self, our two young Swedish friends, and a maid-servant, who promised to fulfil, and seemed capable of performing any duty that might be reasonably required of her. Amongst our covtpagnons de voyage were some eighteen or twenty Arabs, and as they kept to the distant part of the ship, we were not a little amused by watching them — nearer acquaintance might not have been so agreeable.

The very perceptible chief ofthe party was a man of immense stature, three or four of the number were attendants, and the rest were women. The gigantic form of the Marabout, for such he was, especially attracted our attention, and he appeared to be some one of note in his way. On inquiry we learned he was closely related to the well-known Abd-el-Kader, at that time a prisoner in France. I could not refrain from making a sketch of this very picturesque person, though I did not intend he should see me; but his quick eye soon spied it out, and bringing an interpreter he approached, asking permission to look at what I was drawing. I own to having felt a little shy at the request, not knowing how he might be affected by the gratifica- 4neMA^''<'ut TVmTfce OrifJMAl -Skelch to # Xa^y *V',e,K B'AcKwoodl ClI-ISST SS..TH » „.„.

Arrive at Constantinople. 5 tion of his wish, for though he was the peeping intruder, perhaps I had no right to depict him. However, as he seemed more amused than angry, I at once handed him my sketch-book, at which he laughed heartily, and immediately offered to write his own name under his portrait, and the date of the performance. This pleased me, and so for a short time we became as good friends as we could, through an interpreter, he not speaking French sufficiently to be understood. Notwithstanding the friendship, how ever, he obviously despised us as much beneath him, because, forsooth, he had fourteen wives, to whom he pointed, while he hinted that my husband had but three, and only one attendant ! Honestly, I could not regret that, shortly after this, the effect of an increasingly rolling sea parted us, and we saw no more of him, his attendants, or his wives, until we reached Constantinople.

Here I desire to record the goodness and loving kindness of our heavenly Father, and to bear grateful testimony to the faithful fulfilment of His promise, through Christ, " If two of you shall agree on earth as touching anything that they shall ask, it shall be done for them of my Father which is in heaven." Now it so happened that one of our party having some little time previously experienced a frightful storm with great danger in crossing from Antwerp to London, was henceforth timid at sea, and felt An Agreeable Voyage. rather nervous at the prospect of seven days' sail in the Mediterranean during the winter. Before setting out, therefore, on this undertaking, some friends met together, and in the exercise of faith on the Saviour's promise, besought Him to hear their petitions which were for three things : First, that it might please Him to remove all fear for the voyage, granting us a happy and calm transit to our destination ; secondly, that a sphere of usefulness might open to us on our arrival ; and thirdly, that health might be granted to enable us to fulfil the same.

The sequel will show how perfectly every request was fulfilled, and that in a manner and through circumstances impossible to be foreseen, and over which therefore we had no control. First, then, an unexpected and " unpreventable " occurrence detained us from starting at the time we intended, and we were delayed for about a week, during which time a heavy and dangerous storm passed over the Mediterranean. When we steamed off from Marseilles we felt but the mere swell of it for a while ; the voyage was in all respects a most agreeable one, the weather lovely overhead the whole time, enabling us to enjoy the sights of the coast by which we sailed in threading the islands of the Archipelago, and giving us finally that splendid view of Constantinople as you approach the city from the Sea of Marmora, which has been so much and justly applauded.

Galata Pier. 7 Strange to say, we had no sooner arrived off Seraglio Point, opposite Galata, than the clouds gathered darkly around us, and rain began to fall with the early closing of daylight. It was on the 18th of December, about four o'clock in the evening that " La Gange" came to an anchor, and, alas for us ! strict orders were given that all passengers should leave the ship before night. It happens there, as it does in most places where the sea is confined in narrow bounds, if a sudden storm arises, it swells, and boils, tossing to and fro, making it very dangerous for boats or small craft venturing on it. Thus it was now with us, consequently none came to take us on shore until late in the evening. A small boat, with one man to row, was all we could get, and into which Dr. Blackwood, our two Swedes, myself, and servant stepped ; it was now quite dark and the rain falling in torrents.

Trusting to that Almighty hand which had hitherto protected us, for we could almost say " not knowing whither we went," we arrived at the side of what in those days was called Galata pier. And here our difficulties began. I am told that since that time, now nearly twenty-seven years ago, all things are wonderfully changed at Constantinople, and in the foreign Bradshaw you may read of a rail way station, omnibuses to take you to the different hotels, or cabs even for hire. Such improvements I can as little picture to myself, as any one who has not Confusion on Landing. 8 landed at the port of an Eastern shore, or who did not see Galata itself in those days, can imagine what its pier and the surroundings of its pier were. A few broken planks resting on tumbledown posts, barely keeping one's feet from the green filth which floated beneath ; an accumulation of every abomi nable and putrid thing which the waves tossed up and down, yet with no tide to carry away, and beyond the reach of the current.

This was our landing-place. What next ? First, a perfect Babel of tongues greeted us, Turks, Greeks, Armenians, — all shouting together; then darkness overshadowed us ; and this would have been complete, but for the few oiled-paper lamps held by some of the crowd, most of whom were eager to steal your bags and portmanteaus, or cloaks, or anything which was to be had, and unscrupulously ready to murder you if occasion needed, or permitted, in order to obtain the desired prize ; and rain all the while pouring down in pitiless torrents. Here, as I said, our difficulties began, and seemed indeed overwhelming. What were we to do ? who could understand us ? who would direct us to the nearest hotel ? was any con veyance to be had ? if so, how ? All these questions ran through our minds far more quickly than they could be expressed !

Such things as conveyances, however, belong to civilised nations of the present day ; they did not belong to Galata in those times ! But we were not left nor forsaken; the kind Provi- A British Sailor. 9 dence which, had hitherto guided us sent help at the moment we so needed it. Just as we exclaimed in an almost despairing unbelief, " What shall we do?" the boat being now fastened to one of the crazy posts, a good broad Scotch voice was heard above the almost deafening din — " Sir, will you let me have your boat ? I'm a sailor, sir, on board the ' London,' and I'll be miserable to be here all night." The name " London " immediately caught my ear. " It is my nephew's ship," I said, " and he would help us at once." Dr. Blackwood replied, " The boat is not ours, we have but hired it to bring us from ' La Gange,' in which we have just arrived ; but see in what distress we are.

My good man, you must help us. We do not know which way to turn, or who to speak to. Pray tell us how can we find Messirie's Hotel in Pera ; do, therefore, help us, and do not leave us to the mercy of this rabble in such a night and in such a place." " Well, sir, I don't know the way, but at any rate, if you are there with ladies, I'll do my best. This is no place for ladies ; it's bad enough for any one, but ladies can't stay here." He helped us accordingly to land, trying to keep us upon the wretched planks which were full of holes and tipping up and down, some of them with spaces large enough between to allow us to fall through into the mire beneath. Arrival at a Khan. 10 "Does any one here speak English?" he shouted, and just then one of the crowd holding a paper lan tern turned it accidentally upon the scarlet uniform of a British soldier, who came up offering assistance, for our dilemma was manifest.

We accepted it, and said if he and the sailor would protect us, we would thankfully place ourselves under their care. " Very good, sir," said the soldier. So he and the sailor collected our bags and such things as we had, seized upon a couple of Greeks, and made them carry the luggage and a lantern (for there was no light there but what was in the hand), and on we marched, the sailor in front, the soldier behind, the porters immediately in front of him. Thus escorted we felt pretty safe,, for "where ignorance is bliss 'tis folly to be wise," we are told ; so on we marched, stumbling however continually. Pavement there was none ; in lieu of which luxury the streets had great stones rolled into them of all shapes and sizes, as though they had been thrown out of a cart and left to fix their own abode wherever they listed ; in daylight they kindly kept us from pools of mud, by our carefully selecting their tops for our step ping places ; but in the present instance, being dark, we as often slipped from them into mire as not.

On we went, however, and on we went, for the rugged road seemed to us interminable. At length we came to some horrible-looking khan or inn, where our first escort suggested we might possibly find lodgings for the night, as neither he nor the Tower of Galata. 11 soldier knew anything of Messirie's Hotel, nor its direction. In our ignorance of Turkish hotels or khans, therefore, we opened the door and peeped in, but somewhat cautiously and suspiciously. A ruf fian-looking pair advanced towards us, while others equally repulsive were seated round a brazier within, smoking. These for the most part were Greeks, and this was a Greek eating or drinking house. Though the rain was falling almost in cascades, we, nevertheless, all declared vve would rather remain in it all night than trust ourselves to such company.

We retired and pursued our journey ; and no doubt it was a wise conclusion, as a little farther on we heard frightful screams issuing from just such another " Locanda" as the one vve had stopped at. Here our escorts pressed us on quickly, saying we must go to Pera, which was the European quarter, and most likely Messirie's Hotel would be there ; so turning to the right hand we proceeded up a very steep hill, down which a river seemed to rush, washing over our ankles in the most unceremonious manner. When nearly at the top, as we conceived, we were arrested by strongly closed gates. Our sailor knocked for admittance, and a Turkish guard or sentinel appeared. It was the Tower of Galata at which we had arrived : but how could two paper lanterns show us this ? Through these gates, however, we must pass to reach Pera from that side.

At first the guard hesitated, as well he might at Messirie's Hotel. 12 the unseemly spectacle of ladies there at such a time of evening and in such a plight ; but the scarlet uniform had a surprising influence, as we then experienced, but learned more about afterwards. The Turk was softened, touched the soldier on the back, saying good-temperedly, "Bono Johnny !" and allowed us to pass. Again we ascended the narrow street, and at last, for most things have an end, at last we came to an opening where almost opposite a blaze of light burst upon our view from lamps both outside and inside of some building which we were persuaded could be no other than the longed-for hotel. We were correct in our surmises, and none but such as had experienced what we had gone through could conceive our feelings when once within its doors.

Mrs. Messirie advanced in astonishment. " Why, ladies, where have you come from ? We are quite full in this house, I have not a room for you." We gazed first at the orange trees with which the entrance passage was lined, then at the little rivulets which were being rapidly formed by our dripping garments ; and then answered — "It cannot be helped, Mrs. Messirie, but once under your roof you cannot turn us out in such a night." She laughed and said, "But how did you come here ? No one goes out after dark at any time in Con stantinople. Why, you might all have been robbed and murdered ; you were very brave to venture." Mrs. Messirie. 13 We told our tale, mentioning that we had heard sad screams of distress in one place, but that our escorts hurried us past. "Ah ! " she replied, " some horrid murder, I fear."

And so it proved to be, or nearly so ; we heard the next day the poor victim was an English sailor who was robbed and had his ribs broken in. Mrs. Messirie was certainly astonished at what vve told her of our march from Galata pier. " God has preserved us, indeed ! " we said. " Truly He has," was her reply, " for the city is full of such evil doings night after night, and I fear it will continue to be so until the English and French establish the police force, which I hear they are about to do. But what is to become of you ? for really I have not a single room disengaged : and the only idea which crosses me is, that some of my guests, who are officers, will kindly give up their room in favour of you ladies. It is just possible also that one room belonging to two others may not be claimed to-night, for, as I told you, no one ventures out after dark, and probably in such a night they may remain in the Barrack to which they went, and not return till to-morrow."

She was most kind, and we felt very grateful. It turned out as she expected, two rooms were found us, from which we were not disturbed. Where our sailor and soldier went that night we knew not ; but probably not far, as we saw them the Safe Landing. 14 next day, and through the former I sent a message to my nephew, Lord Kilcoursie, on board the " London," telling him how much we were indebted to his ship's carpenter (for that he informed us was his office) for the assistance he had rendered us in the midst of such difficulties. It is probable that the heavy rain which so discomforted us may have been one great protec tion against strolling marauders who might otherwise have molested us on our way; as it was, scarcely any one was seen in the street that night besides our selves. This account of our landing has been given some what minutely, because, while I trust the mercies we received may never be effaced from my own memory, I earnestly hope the record of it, bearing testimony to the gracious fulfilment of the promises of God, may be useful to others in strengthening their faith, and thus bring glory to Him, and a blessing to them selves.

Chapter II

Truth stranger than fiction — First crossing the Bosphorus to Scutari— A friendly captain and his boat — The Turkish Custom-House, confusion confounded — Arrival at Scutari pier and unexpected sight of Lieutenant Keatley, an old friend — His invaluable help to us — He had rescued our luggage from " La Gange " and the Custom-House — First visit to the Great Barrack Hospital — Quarters assigned in a favourable situation — Method of furnishing — M. Stampa and hamals — Ship on fire, and rum kegs — Consequent troubles. IT has frequently been acknowledged that stories of real life are stranger than fiction. Our arrival at this Eastern capital, and the events of the next and following days certainly have more the appear ance of romance and fiction about them than reality ; nevertheless, they are perfectly true, and can be well authenticated.

It was necessary that Dr. Blackwood should report himself at headquarters as soon as possible. For this purpose, therefore, we hired a commissionaire, and went down to Tophana to embark for Scutari. The pier at Tophana was the nearest to Pera, which was called the Frank Quarter, and was inhabited chiefly by the Christian population, as Stamboul was by the Turks, the pier or landing-place contiguous to which Tophana. 16 was at Galata, whereon we had made our debut the previous evening. But in respect to construction and accompaniments of filth and abomination, Tophana so resembled its neighbour that it would have been difficult to decide which was the least horrible. There was a very heavy swell on the water consequent upon the wind of the previous evening ; in such case at this time the caiques were not so very safe on account of the strong currents, and the quantity of shipping both anchored and otherwise belonging to almost every nation, and as we had as yet no experience of those most delightful little craft, we rather demurred to making the trial on the present occasion under those circumstances, the more so on perceiving an English boat fastened to one of the rickety posts doing nothing but rock two young sailors who were in it.