The Way about Warwickshire, etc

Front matter

The Way-about Series. No. 3. THE WAY ABOUT WARWICKSHIRE. WARWICK CASTLE. The Way-about Series, No. 3. THE WAY ABOUT WARWICKSHIRE. WRITTEN & ILLUSTRATED BY W. A. BETTESWORTH. LONDON : ILIFFE AND SON, 3, ST. BRIDE STREET, E.C. LONDON : ILIFFE AND SON, 3, ST. BRIDE STREET, LUDGATE CIRCUS, E.C. WORKS : COVENTRY, CONTENTS. PAGE Preface 9 Have you been to Warwickshire ? The George Eliot Country - 11 15 Coventry to Warwick through Kenilworth, with another route through Stoneleigh 21 Warwick to Stratford via Charlecote, and back to Warwick by the main road 29 Coventry to Birmingham via Stonebridge and Bickenhall, and via Castle Bromwich 34 Stratford to Birmingham through Henley-in-Arden - Tamworth to Nuneaton 40 45 Birmingham to Tamworth 52 Stratford-on-Avon to Long Compton, by Shipston-on- Stour, and return by Brailes 59 Birmingham to Warwick and Leamington via Knowle Coventry to Brinklow and Lutterworth 65 74 Lutterworth to Rugby, Dunchurch and Coventry 61 Leamington to Princethorpe and Dunchurch, back by Southam PAGE Leamington to Southam and Fenny Compton, back by Kineton or Gaydon 92 Coleshill, Shustoke, Fillongley, Corley, and Coventry Warwick to Henley-in-Arden, Alcester and Stratford 97 102 Warwick to Warmington, Kineton, and Stratford, or back to Warwick 108 Coventry to Berkswell, Hampton-in-Arden and Coleshill - - - - 115 From "Hungry" Grafton to "Haunted" Hillborough Walks from Coventry - - - - 120 125 British and Roman Remains How to see the Avon 132 136 Manor Houses, Abbeys, and Castles The Shield, the Sword, and the Battle How to use the Railways. 146 150

Preface

. /*)LTHOUGH several of the routes described in this J --*- book cover a considerable distance, there is no possible reason why any part of a journey should not be taken, to be discontinued at will, or why a detour should not be made from one route to another. In general, it will be found that there are simple connections between the various routes. If, in any chapter, a place is only just mentioned, it will, as a rule, be found, on referring to the index, that it is described more fully elsewhere. As the purpose of the book is to show the way about the County, no attempt has been made to give any details about the larger towns. It cannot be too strongly urged that enquiries should be made of every person, male or female, who passes, when a cyclist or pedestrian finds himself in an out of-the-way part of the County, where direction posts are absent.

This is the only way to avoid lengthy detours at times, since the natives are apt to be a little doubtful as to routes and distances, and it is only by asking two or three of them that any certainty is obtained. The book has been made of a convenient size to go into the pocket, and the author knows from long experience how convenient it is to have a book actually at hand when wanted, whereas, when it is left at home, so many interesting places are forgotten and missed altogether. In many of the chapters it has been impossible to give distances which can be absolutely relied upon, as the routes frequently follow by-lanes. Moreover, it is always better for a cyclist or pedestrian to allow a fairly wide margin in case he may wish to make detours. W. A. B. * fe y ILIFFE tt SON, MAP PRINTERS, COVENTRY & LONDON HAVE YOU BEEN TO WARWICK- SHIRE?

N"E thing alone is wanted to , . make Warwickshire the I very fairest county in England — the sea. As, however, there seems no reasonable prospect of this want being supplied — for some little time at least — the county can only be said to fairly hold its own with the two or three other fairest of counties. From the point of view of the tourist, Warwickshire is wholly delightful. It is so diversified ; has such lovely rivers and streams, such woods, such beautiful old manor houses and castles, such interesting Roman and British remains, and such quaint little villages, that a man's tastes must indeed be peculiar if he is not satisfied. There are, it is true, reasonable limits to the enjoyment which can be derived from a visit to the county, and a member of the Alpine Club, for instance, might consider the hills quite tame and uninteresting, unless he should undertake to ride a rather heavy cycle, when lie will begin to think that Alpine climbing is, after all, not very much to brag about.

Moreover, a man who cannot be satisfied unless he abides in hotels of the magnitude of the London Metropole, will find that Warwickshire hotels are, as a rule, not so much vast as comfortable and good. As in every other part of the world, there are certain places which stand out prominently as being of special interest, but Warwickshire possesses much more than a fair share of such places. Think of Stratford-on-Avon, and its associations connected with Shakespeare ; think of Warwick, with its magnificent castle and the old-time appearance of its houses ; of Kenilworth, with all its historical memories, and the most interesting ruins in England ; of Coventry, where the streets exist just as they were centuries ago ; of Leamington, with its beautiful gardens and walks, and its hundreds of pretty girls (for all the pretty girls go to Leamington).

Think of Alcester; of HAVE YOU BEEN TO WARWICKSHIRE? 13 Tamworth ; of the quaint old Henley-in-Arden ; of Dun church, with its fir-tree avenue. Then, again, look at Aston Hall, the most perfect of Elizabethan mansions ; at Merevale Hall ; at Compton Verney and Compton Wynyates, in their peaceful valleys ; at Packington Hall, Offchurch Bury, Charlecote, Coughton Court, and say where else can such buildings be found ? Then the Avon — loveliest river in England, not even excepting the Dart — the Leam, the Itchen, the Tame, the Anker ! What, too, of the quaint old villages around Stratford — villages which Shakespeare knew and loved so well, where many of the houses are just as they were in his days, and where the same curious turns of speech, which he so often described, are still heard in all their simplicity, even down to the same words and phrases ?

And, think you that when you know Warwickshire you will be satisfied to believe, with those who find a reason for anything and everything, that the Forest of Arden was in the Ardennes, or, for the matter of that, in the Andes ? When you have walked among the lanes and the villages in Arden, and have wandered about the woods which in many parts still exist in their primitive form, and have seen and talked to the people, and have found that "Jakes " is not an uncommon name — will you think that Audrey was anything but a Warwickshire girl, born and bred in the county ? Are you a lover of ycur country's history ? If so, by all means go en to the Edge Hills, and imagine that you are a special correspondent watching the great battle, in momentary fear that some stray bullet might come in your direction.

The whole scene will be almost as vivid as if the armies were before you — you can see Rupert's cavalry charging into Kineton, while the infantry — your own infantry — are being slowly driven back towards you, and it only requires a rabbit shooting party to come within range to make you feel inclined to gather up your traps and depart. Are you an antiquarian ? You can positively revel in the treasures of the county — in its Roman camps, il s Rollerick Stones, its tumuli, its Watling Streets, and its Fosseways. Or are you simply a Bohemian, and love to wander about at your own sweet will, wherever your fancy may lead you ? You will find endless beauties at almost every turn — churches, houses, lanes, flowers, people, and the perfection of windows and chimneys. The moral of all this is, that Warwickshire offers attrac tions to any person of any kind of disposition.

GEORGE ELIOT'S COUNTRY. 15 THE GEORGE ELIOT COUNTRY. '-TT^NOST of the scenes described in George Eliot's books -i.jLX' are well known to represent actual localities, and the district between Nuneaton and Coventry is full of places which the great novelist has immortalised. Her early life also was passed partly near Nuneaton and partly at Coventry. All the places which are in some way or other connected with George Eliot may easily be visited from either Coventry or Nuneaton. Perhaps it would be better to start from Nuneaton, and it may as well be said at once that the most comfortable way of visiting the district is by driving, for the roads are very bad indeed for cyclists. At the same time the distance is not too far to walk easily in a day. Nuneaton itself is so fully described in " Scenes of Clerical Life," that it is worth while to look through the town.

In the book it is known as Milby — an appropriate name certainly— and several houses and streets remain as they were when the novelist was alive. The Bull Hotel is the Red Lion of "Janet's Repentance," Church Street is the " Orchard Street " where Janet lived, and Dempster's house still exists. The Parish Church is the church described in the story. The school which George Eliot attended is still to be seen just opposite the Parish Church. On leaving Nuneaton follow the Coventry road to Chilvers Coton, which is, without doubt, the " Shepper ton " of "The Sad Fortunes of the Rev. Amos Barton." The church has been very much restored, but there are still outside steps leading to the organ loft, just as described in the book, and these steps are considered to settle the question as to the locality.

Milly's grave can also be seen, shaded by a yew-tree, and the vicarage close to the churchyard remains very much as it was. A steep hill out of Chilvers Coton is followed by a descent to Griff Hollow where George Eliot's home was, and still is in existence. CRITT MOLUCW There is a delightful view at the bottom of the hill. Another steep hill follows, after which the turn to the right must be taken, leading to Arbury, which is about two miles off. Arbury Hall is the Cheverel Manor of " Mr. GEORGE ELIOT'S COUNTRY. 17 Gilfil's Love Story," and has been described as a " picturesque castellated aggregation of Gothic stone work," whatever that may mean.

At all events, it is a magnificent building, or series of buildings, and it would be impossible to imagine a better word-picture of it than George Eliot has herself given : — "And a charming picture Cheverel Manor would have made that evening, if some English Watteau had been there to paint it ; the castellated house of grey-tinted stone, with the flickering sunbeams sending dashes of golden light across the many-shaped panes in the mullioned windows, and a great beech leaning athwart one of the flanking towers, and breaking, with its dark flattened boughs, the' too formal symmetry of the front ; the broad gravel-walk winding on the right, by a row of tall pines, alongside the pool — on the left branching out among swelling grassy mounds, surmounted by clumps of trees, where the red trunk of the Scotch fir glows in the descending sunlight against the bright gleam of limes and acacias ; the great pool where a pair of swans are swimming lazily with one leg tucked under a wing, and where the open water-lilies lie calmly accepting the kisses of the fluttering light-sparkles ; the lawn, with its smooth emerald greenness, sloping down to the rougher and browner herbage of the park, from which it is invisibly fenced by a little stream that winds away from the pool, and disappears under a wooden bridge in the distant pleasure ground."

It is not very probable that many people would have the time to notice all this beauty, but anyone who is fortunate enough to have seen the view on a summer evening will be able to understand what the great writer means when she B speaks of the " descending sunlight." There is a noble entrance to the park on the north side — quite a small castle. From this entrance it is only a short distance to Stockingford, which is the Paddiford of "Janet's Repent ance," but George Eliot's description of it as being " a dismal district where you heard the rattle of the handioom, and breathed the smoke of coal-pits," is intensified at the present time, and it is hardly likely that anyone would care to go far out of his way to visit it. Two miles from Arbury is Astley Church, which is the Knebley to which Mr. Gilfil used to ride on Sunday for afternoon service.

The church itself is not very interest ing, but the castle, almost hidden by trees, is not likely to be forgotten by anyone who sees it. Formerly it was the seat of the Duke of Suffolk, the father of Lady Jane Gray, GEORGE ELIOT'S COUNTRY. 19 and the Duke is said to have taken refuge in a hollow tree in the park when he was particularly wanted by his enemies. Unfortunately, a keeper on his estate betrayed him — for a consideration, of course. Should anyone be lucky enough (or unlucky enough) to see the castle during a thunderstorm he will certainly never forget the weird effect, particularly if he is a cyclist who has to ride home through the soaked lanes. From Astley the road to Corley should be taken. It is impossible to give directions as to finding the way, but there are cottages, and occasionally cottagers about, and no opportunity of enquiring the route should be missed.

Just before climbing the steep hill into Corley a farmhouse is passed. It may be known by two Griffins over the entrance gate. This farmhouse is generally admitted to be the house where Mrs. Poyser, in "Adam Bede," used to speak her mind. There are people to be found who say that the "Hall farm" was really in Staffordshire, but they should not be encouraged. As the residents at Corley Hall provide tea for visitors (in a quaint old garden when the weather is fine), an excellent opportunity may be taken to set all doubts at rest about the authenticity of the house. From Corley there is a lovely walk across the fields to Exhall, where the train can be taken to Nuneaton. The precise direction to be taken cannot be described in so many words, but when on the spot there is no difficulty in finding the way.

Or the main road to Coventry can be followed, a paradise for cyclists, as it is on a downward slope the whole way. There is also a path across the fields to Coventry, which begins at a stile near to the church. This is a charming walk, and is described in the chapter on " Walks about Coventry." COVENTRY TO WARWICK, THROUGH KENILWORTH, WITH ANOTHER ROUTE THROUGH STONELEIGH. (Distance about ii Miles.) CTJT"HIS is a short journey, suitable for walking, cycling, >L? or driving, but there is so much to see on the way that it cannot be enjoyed thoroughly unless it is taken slowly and carefully for the first time. For the main road to Warwick, leave Coventry by the Green, and ascend the hill past the red brick Grammar School, which is by no means possible to be mistaken. At the summit is a small park, and a little farther on a fine clump of fir trees, where the road divides.

The left branch goes to Stoneleigh. Keep to the right past the pretty little cottage, and the well-known avenue is soon reached. It is always worth while, especially in the evening, to give a look to the right on entering the avenue across the common, for there are often wonderful effects in the way of dark tree trunks, and tiled houses, and sunsets. The road for about 300 yards is slightly on the turn, but afterwards is straight for nearly 2J miles, with double rows of trees on either side, many of which are unfortunately getting rather thin at the top. Though the road is straight, there is no monotony, for in the first place it is undulating, and in the second it offers various attractions. Half a mile on the left is a way across the common to Stivichall and the Coat-of-Arms Bridge, which latter ought not to be missed.

A little farther on are some cottages with what may roughly be called a " pond " in front of them. There are often some very pretty effects of light here. By the side of the wide road is a broad footpath which goes right into Warwick, and as the surface is good, and that on the highway occasionally bad, cyclists have been known to prefer the side of the avenue to the middle. There are plenty of ferns and flowers about, and at first pretty peeps across country ; but after a time thick trees on either side shut out all the view. At the end of the avenue comes a steepish ascent called Gibbet Hill, at the top of which malefactors were once hanged in chains. It is a weird spot, for there are no signs of life, only trees everywhere, and a long, long road. Even in these days of civilisation the belated cyclist who rides here on a dark night, when the wind nearly blows his lamp out, is apt to wish that he had started home in time for tea.

The rest of the way to Kenilworth is up and down hill, with a long descent into the old part of the little town. For those who think that the Kenilworth Road, which is generally considered to be the most picturesque in England, should have a more imaginative description, the following extract from " English Pictures " will be of interest : — " A wide, well-kept road follows, almost in a straight line, the undulations of the hills. Soon after leaving the city, a broad, flower-enamelled coppice, open to the road, is reached. Then the hedgerows are flanked on both sides with noble elms, forming a stately avenue, through which glimpses are ever and anon obtained of purple, wood crested hills in the distance. Broad rolling pastures, and cornfields rich in promise, stretch away on either hand ; the grassy roadside and high hedge-banks, showing the deep red subsoil of the sandstone, or variegated clays of the red marls, are bright with wild flowers, and the air is musical with the song of birds.

Travellers are few ; the railway scream in the distance, to the left, suggests that all who are in a hurry to reach their destination have taken another route ; if it be holiday time, parties of young men on Coventry bicycles are sure to flash past, but it is our delight to linger and enjoy." On entering Kenilworth turn to the left for Warwick, keep straight on up the hill if you are going to the Castle, and turn to the right for Birmingham. Half-way up the hill leading to the Castle there is the old parish church, which has a wonderful Norman doorway. In the church yard are the remains of the old priory, now covered with ivy. The Castle, which is possibly the most interesting ruin in England, is open to visitors on weekdays. It is impossible in this book to give a detailed description of it, but for the benefit of those who have no time in which to study it thoroughly, it may be said that the square tower on the right, covered with ivy, is the Norman keep, known as Cæsar's Tower ; the open space beyond this tower is the site of the kitchens, of which almost the only trace is an oven; further on, up a short slope, is Mervyn's tower, in which Amy Robsart stayed while at Kenilworth — her room was on the second story.

Following the buildings to the left, there is the banqueting hall, of which some of the windows are very beautiful still. Next come Lancaster's Buildings, including the Great Hall, the White Hall, and Presence Chamber, and finally Leicester's Buildings, with tall windows. Formerly, between Leicester's Buildings and Cæsar's Tower, the space was occupied by Henry Vm.'s lodgings, but of these not a trace remains. Modern Kenilworth is not particularly interesting, but possesses an exceedingly high chimney, which is visible from great distances. At the end of the town, just after passing the new church, turn slightly to the right ; the left turning is to Stoneleigh and Leamington. The first village is Leek Wootton — delightful to the artist and photo grapher — and a mile away to the left is the old-fashioned hamlet of Hill Wootton.

From here the Avon can be seen. Out of Leek Wootton there is a long descent, which continues with very little intermission as far as Guy's Cliffe, which is a beautiful house on the Avon. A short lane, only a few yards long, on the left, goes past the well-known Saxon Mill, and from this a fine view of the house itself is obtained, as it stands in the midst of dark trees a little way back from the Avon. Just below the mill is the well-known cliff, in a cave of which lived the redoubtable Guy of Warwick, after he had slain the Dun Cow on Dunsmore Heath, besides disposing of the giant champion of the Danes, and multifarious other champions and wild beasts. It seems that Guy had been in love with " the fair Felice," who would have none of him, and so he went away to the Holy Land to kill a few pagans.

When he returned to England he still v.as in love with Felice, but though a mighty man in war, he was bashful in love, and he lived in this cave till he died, being fed every day by the fair one, who, not recognising him, probably thought him merely a rather interesting pilgrim who had turned hermit. A little to the right of Guy's Cliffe is an eminence called Blacklow Hill, on which is a monument to commemorate the fact that on this spot Piers Gaveston was put to death by the Earl of Warwick, whom he had called " The Black Dog of Arden." About a hundred yards past the Saxon Mill there is the splendid avenue, chiefly consisting of fir trees, which gives another view of Guy's Cliffe. Warwick is now little more than a mile away, and from the top of the hill just above the town there is a very pretty bird's-eye view, taking in the church and part of the castle.

A tramway goes through the town, and the streets are narrow. Another way to Warwick from Coventry is through Stoneleigh. Take the turning to the left at the fir trees just beyond the Grammar School, and pass through Stivichall, a charming little village, almost hidden by trees. The church is said to have been built from bottom to top by one man, whose name was Green. A lane just past Stivichall, bearing to the right, goes under the Coat-of-Arms Bridge at only a few yards distance. This bridge is so very pretty, thanks to its surroundings, that it is beloved of artists and amateur photographers, g_who nearly all choose the same position for their picture — close by a little pool. There are many heartburnings at times when the best position is taken up by a rival. The Stoneleigh road bears to the left, and then to the right (there is a direction post), down a steep hill, after which it is undulating, with a slope down to a little bridge, where the road divides.

The straight road to Warwick is to the right, but it is much more interesting to take the left turning up the hill, and go through Stoneleigh village. This turning passes close by the banks of the Sowe, about half-a-mile from the village. From Stoneleigh there is a choice of two ways to Warwick. Either turn to the right and join the direct Coventry road, which passes within about half-a-mile of Stoneleigh Abbey, and within sight of Ashow, a perfectly lovely village on the Avon, and finally joins the Kenilworth-Warwick main road about half a-mile before it reaches Guy's Cliffe ; or cross the bridge at Stoneleigh and turn to the right along a pretty country lane, with'steep banks, on the left side of which is the deer fence of the Abbey Park. A little further on this lane crosses the Avon by means of a creeper-covered bridge, and finally comes out into Milverton about four miles off, after several times passing close to the Avon.

Stoneleigh Abbey can be easily visited from either of the two direc tions. The Abbey has had a chequered history. The original building was founded in 1154 by Henry II. for the Cistercian Monks, and was burnt in 1245. The next build ing was suppressed by Henry VIII., who gave it to the Duke of Suffolk, and in course of time it came into the hands of a Lord Mayor of London, Sir Thomas Leigh, who was the ancestor of the Lord Leigh who now owns the property, and who is so well known as one of the very best of landowners and landlords. WARWICK TO STRATFORD, BY CHARLECOTE. 29 WARWICK TO STRATFORD VIA CHARLECOTE, AND BACK TO WARWICK BY THE MAIN ROAD. (Distance by Charlecote, 10 Miles. By Main Road, 8 Miles.) fi^T^HIS is one of the most enjoyable routes in the \U county, and if it is found too long for a walk, the train can be taken from Stratford and back to Warwick.

Pass by Leycester's Hospital and descend the hill, after which the road is more or less level, running for about a mile by the side of the park. At about two miles the Charlecote road leaves the main route, and bears to the left. A mile further on the Avon comes in sight at Barford, which is one of the neatest and cleanest little villages to be found anywhere, with trim little gardens and quantities of roses of all kinds. Barford Bridge has several arches, for the Avon is getting wide here. There is a very pretty view from the bridge, looking over the river towards Sherbourne, the church of which has a lofty spire. Barford Church tower shows marks of the cannon balls which the Parliamentarians aimed at it. The next village is Wasperton, which lies a little off the road to the right. It contains some pretty old timbered cottages, and a most curious dovecote, which stands all by itself in a field.

Moreover, the river runs by the village. Two miles beyond Wasperton is Wellesbourne Hastings, which is really two villages, separated by the River Dene. The high road does not go close to Charlecote, but any turning to the right after leaving Wasperton leads within a little distance of the house, which, however, is not as a rule open to the inspection of visitors. Charlecote is a red-brick mansion, built in the time of Elizabeth. It consists of two wings and a centre, the whole forming the shape of the letter E, which, of course, was a judicious piece of flattery on the part of the builder. The Maiden Queen visited the house once. A flight of steps goes from the garden terrace in front of the house, down to the river, from which Charlecote is seen at its very best. Everybody knows that Sir Thomas Lucy — who built the place — was, or was not, the " Justice Shallow " who prosecuted, or did not prosecute, Shakespeare for stealing the deer — if he ever did steal it.

A splendid avenue of lime trees leads up to the house, and the entrance gateway is ornamented with the arms of the Lucys. WARWICK TO STRATFORD, BY CHARLECOTE. 31 On the north side of the park there is a lane leading to Hampton Lucy. The lane crosses the Avon at a spot where an abbey once stood. In the village there is a green and a church without many attractions. From Hampton Lucy a lane due west comes out into the main road to Stratford. At Wellesbourne Hastings take the turning to the right, and cross the River Dene, just before reaching which there is an extremely pretty view of Charlecote to the right. After crossing the Dene the road again turns to the right, and in a mile passes by the lodge gates of Charlecote, after which it runs not far from the river up to Alveston — a village situated on a spot where the river makes a semicircle.

Boats are to be had at Alveston. Then comes Tiddington, and after another mile the river is crossed at the Old Stratford Bridge. There is a charming walk across the fields by the river just before coming to the bridge. The path goes close by the old church, and there is a picture at every few yards— even the Memorial Hall looks rather pretty when seen from a point just opposite the church. Stratford Church can receive no detailed description in this book, but if you take the walk by the riverside you will see picture after picture of it, and each one beautiful. On arriving at the railway the walk bends round to the right past an old flour mill, and there is a superb view up the river from the back of it. From Stratford to Warwick by the main road, you go down to the old bridge and turn to the left just before reaching the river, which is in view for about two miles.