A Voyage to China

Front matter

■ ll',' 'ANTON A VOYAGE TO CHINA; INCLUDING A VISIT TO THE BOMBAY PRESIDENCY; THE MAHRATTA COUNTRY; THE CAVE TEMPLES OF "WESTERN INDIA, SINGAPORE, THE STRAITS OF MALACCA AND SUNDA, AND THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. BY DR. BERNCASTLE, MEMBER OF THE ROYAL COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS, LONDON. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: WILLIAM SHOBERL, PUBLISHER, 20, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 1850. LONDON : MYERS AND CO., PRINTERS, 37, KING STREET, COYENT GARDEN TO LADY FRANKLIN, THE PRESENT VOLUMES ARE, BY PERMISSION, MOST RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, WITH THE HIGHEST FEELINGS OF REGARD, BY THE AUTHOR. ILLUSTRATIONS. VOLUME I. PAGE. View of the City of Canton. (From the original in the East India House) .... Frontispiece. The Baag Nouk, or Tiger's Claw . . . .239 VOLUME II. Plan of the City and Suburbs of Canton . Frontispiece _

Preface

. In the following pages I have noted down such occurrences and incidents as came under my own personal observation, during the long voyage over the world of waters that intervenes between the EngUsh shores and China — a country perhap s second only in extent to the gigantic empire which stretches north and south over the whole continent of Eastern Europe, as well as over that of Western Asia — but of infinitely greater con sequence to us in a commercial point of view, the more particularly, since the late war, when the cession of Hong Kong has had the effect of increasing our commerce and relations with that part of the world.

PREFACE.

. VIII In the course of my narrative, I have given some account of the places at which the ship in which I went out touched, and of the persons with whom I happened to come in contact, in the hope that such details may not be unacceptable to general readers, and, at the same time, prove of some utility to those who may hereafter follow in the same track. The Cape of Good Hope being a part of the world at which vessels frequently stop to take in supplies, on their voyage out to the far East, and being, moreover, one of the most important and commanding spots on the face of the earth, I have deemed it expedient to devote considerable space to the mention of this Colony — unquestionably one of the most valuable of the British possessions abroad, and which would, no doubt, at this moment, have been severed from the mother country, had not the English Government been recently compelled to yield to the just and rightful demands of its inhabitants.

PREFACE.

. IX To have placed that good and brave man, Sir Harry Smith, for so long a period, in so trying a situation, during which he acquitted himself in the most honourable manner, both towards his country and the Colonists, over whom he was called upon to preside, is an evidence of imbecility, or ignorance, without parallel on the part of a British Minister. That country, which has been termed " the brightest jewel in the English Crown," was, consequently, in great jeopardy of being ruined, on account of the tardy order to remove from its shores the malefactors to a more suitable destination. It is to be hoped that the mistaken policy exhibited on this occasion will operate as a warning to future Ministers, who, it is obvious, should be selected to fill such important trusts, on account of their great experience of men and manners, of their high attainments, and practical knowledge of the wants of our vast Colonial Empire.

PREFACE.

. X The next place of paramount importance at which I arrived was Bombay, and such is our almost daily intercourse with India, that I venture to hope the descriptions which I have given connected with this now most important part of our Indian Empire, may be of some service to the numerous visitants to that Presidency. During my stay in Western India, I could not resist the tempta tion, although at considerable expense, of visiting Poona, the celebrated capital of the Mahratta Empire, and those famous cave temples of Karli. Kanari, Bambourda, &c, so seldom explored by travellers. On my arrival at Singapore, that recently founded emporium of the commerce of the East, I could not fail to be impressed with the baneful effects of opium-smoking amongst the natives. But I feel assured that the abuse of spirits and tobacco at home is attended with evils quite as great to the health and morals of the people, as those arising in the East from the practice of opium-smoking.

PREFACE.

. XI As regards Hong Kong, I have given some particulars connected with the present state of the Colony, which I trust may not be con sidered devoid of interest. On arriving in the great " Provincial City''* of the Celestial Empire, I availed myself of every opportunity of inspecting whatever is accessible to the " Fan-qui," although in one or two cases, at some per sonal risk to myself. Among other excur sions, I may mention that round the walls of the city, early in the morning, before the population were stirring, which is seldom undertaken by any European. I must not omit to express my best acknowledgments to various friends and others, from whom I experienced the utmost kindness and hospitality during my stay in the East, and who afforded me every facility in their power of visiting places which I deemed worthy of inspection. I may particularly mention the names of Mr. Shea, the chief surgeon at the Naval * Canton is so called by the Chinese.

PREFACE.

. XII Hospital, Cape of Good Hope ; Dr. Miller, of Bombay; Major Candy and the Rev. H. Cassidy, of Poona; Dr. Allen, of Singapore; Drs. Hunter and Smith, of Whampoa ; Mr. Mackean, Mr. Walkinshaw, Drs. Parker and Kenny, of Canton ; and Dr. Watson, of Macao. I have also to tender my thanks to the Curator of the East India Company's Mu seum, for having so obligingly permitted me to have copied from the Chinese original, the View of Canton, which forms the frontis piece to the first volume. My acknowledg ments are also due to the noble-minded Lady Franklin, who, on account of my former acquaintance with her gallant husband, whose fate at present excites so deep an interest in the public mind, has kindly acquiesced in my wish, out of respect to him, to permit me to dedicate to her the present volumes. J. Berncastle. 80, Albany-street, Regent's Park, November, 1850. CONTENTS OF VOL. I.

Chapter I

Desire to Visit the East — Embark in the " Herefordshire" — Her Crew and Appointments — Bay of Biscay — A Fatality — View of Madeira— Flying-Fish, Sharks and Sea-Gulls — A Blue Shark captured — Thermometer in the Tropics — Sea-Bathing — A Calm — A Perilous Adventure — The Monster's Sagacity — Ceremonies of Crossing the Line — The Coast of Brazil — The Albatross described — Its Voracity — View of Table Mountain. . . 1

Chapter II

Malay Boats — Landing at Cape Town — Parke's Hotel — Government House — The Cape Town Museum — The Town described — Mixed Inhabitants — Public Buildings — Penguins — Citadel and Garrison— Mail to Simon's Town —Residence of Sir H. Smith — Snakes — False Bay — Dutch Fort — Kalk Bay — The Naval Hospital — Cases of Elephantiasis — The Dockyard— Black Beetle — Wild Animals — The Southampton Frigate — Cape Vineyards — Dutch Frigate — Phœnix Steamer. : . . CONTENTS. XIV

Chapter III

Ascent of Table Mountain— A Torrent of Water— Washerwomen— Solomon, the Malay Guide — Poisonous Fruit — Vegetation — Fissure in the Rock — Delightful Temperature — A Dangerous Path — Specimens of Geology — The Devil's Hill, and the Lion's Head — View of Cape Town from the Mountain — Resort of Pic-nic Parties — A Cave in the Rock — Return to Cape Town. . . 37

Chapter IV

A Digression — The Author's Visit to Mount Wellington, or Table Mountain, in Van Dieman's Land— Its Resemblance to Table Mountain at the Cape — Danger of ascending Mount Wellington without a Guide — A Fatal Instance of this — Lady Franklin's ascent of the Mountain — Perilous Situation of a Party — Preparations for the Journey — A Forest, or Bush — Impediments — Kangaroos — Variety of Birds — Native Cherry Tree — Increasing Difficulties — Force of Hurricanes — Second Ridge of Basalt — Cold Atosphere — Resting Place for the Night — A Snow Storm — Succeeded by a Thick Fog — Summit of the Mountain described — Magnificent View — Dangerous Descent — A Natural Shower Bath — Beautiful Birds — Return to Hobart Town — Information communicated by Lady Franklin — A Magnificent Cataract. . 51

Chapter V

The Author departs from Cape Town for India — Picturesque Scene — The "Devonshire" — Robben Island — Cape Agul- — has Barren appearance of the Coast — Island of Madagascar — Water Spouts — Two large Sharks — Old Wife and Leather Jacket — The North-East Monsoon — Delightful Odours, on approaching Ceylon — Gulf of Manar — Cape Comorin— -A small Owl — The Dying Dolphin The CONTENTS. XV Ghaut Mountains — Wild Animals — The Malabar Coast — Voyage to Bombay — The Pattamar, a sort of Felucca — Hill Fire — Cocoa Nut Trees — Town of Aleppee — City of Cochin — Useful Elephants — Sea Snakes — Capture of one — Its bite fatal — View of Calicut — Tellicheiry — Beau tiful sun-set — Mount Hyder and Mangalore — Arrival at Bombay. 68

Chapter VI

Situation of the Capital of Western India — Some account of the Island — Mixed Inhabitants — The two Towns — Streets and Houses — Shops and Shopkeepers — Palanquin* Bearers — Cabs and Cab Drivers — Native Merchants — The European Inhabitants — Their Style of Living — Duties of Servants — The Pimkah, or large Fan — Dress and Dinner — Exposure to the Sun — Time for Riding out —Mosquitoes and Mosquito Curtains — Provisions in Bombay — Difference of Caste in India — Bungalows — Tents on the Esplanade .86

Chapter VII

The Bombay Races — Picturesque Sight — Mahmoud Hussein and his Brother — Arabian Horses — The Club House and JBall Room — The Bombay Yacht Club — Cutters and Schooners — The Dinghy — Coolies — The Bunder- Boat — -The Pattamar — Bales of Cotton — -The Streets of Bombay — A Parsee Marriage — Parsee Women — Some account of the Parsees, or Guebres — Their Worship of the Sacred Fire — Their Manners and Customs — The Musselmen — Interior of a Mosque — The Hindoos — Their Dress and Features— Sacred Bulls — Hindoo Temples — The Hooli Holidays — Disgraceful Proceedings — Adventure of the Author. .... CONTENTS.

Chapter VIII

Public Buildings in Bombay— Statue of the Marquess Cornwallis— The Town Hall— The Elphinstone Institution—The Sanatarium — The Mahabaleshwur Hills — Extensive Library -The Cathedral— The Scotch Church — The Mint— The Custom House — Heaps of Merchandize—The Old Bunder— The New Bunder— An animated Scene — The Dockyard — The European Hospital — The Supreme Court of Justice — Trial for Murder — Indian Navy Club House — Bombay Castle — An Oriental Scene — Indian Females — Besties, or Water-Carriers — The Sepoy lines — Public Washing Place. . . 122

Chapter IX

The Native Town — Trades and Occupations — A Motley Population — The Borahs, or Hawkers — Water-Tanks — Faqueers, or Religious Fanatics — Filthy Streets — Principal Objects worth visiting — The Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy Hospital — Medical College — Patients and Physicians — Operation for Lithotomy — Use of Chloroform — Leprosy and Guinea Worm — Description of the latter — Native Prejudices — Parsee Hospital — The Jail — Native Day Schools — Ship on Fire — A Nautch — The Dance described—A Shooting Excursion — Mahratta Fortress — Wild Beasts — Pyramidieal Mound — Peacock, Jungle Fowl, &c. — Monkeys — Cheetah — Sagaghur, the Ocean Fort, described. 14

Chapter X

Rides around Bombay — Gun-Carriage Manufactory — Cotton Screwing Establishment — Barracks — Lunatic Asylum — Island of Colabah — The Observatory — Malabar Point — A Sacred Village — Scenery and Vegetation — Worlee — Toddy — FineCauseway — Mahim Fort — Village of Sion— CONTENTS. XVII The Governor's House— Seats of the Wealthy— Lall-bag — The Botanical Gardens — Hope Hall— Mazagon — Places worth visiting — Caves of Elephanta — Entertainment given by Viscount Falkland — The Governor's Departure. 164

Chapter XI

Journey to Poona — Traveller's Bungalows — Mazagon Dinghy— The Panwell River — Departure for Chowk — Sorry Fare — Hill Fort of Purbul — Burning the Dead — Huts of the Natives — Route to Kandallah — Caravan on the Road — Arrival at Kapoolee — The Dhurmsala — Her<^ of Buffaloes — Scenery of the Ghauts — Pass of the Bor Ghaut — Beautiful Sunrise — The Toll collector — An intelligent Parsee — Ascent of the Ghauts — Magnificent View — Arrival at Kandallah — Visit to the Bazaar — Vast Chasm — Monument to John Graham, Esq. — Village of Karli — Hill Forts of Esapoor and Lohagurh — Beautiful Cave — Temple of Karli — Wargaum — Tulligaum — Poona 189

Chapter XII

Hospitality at Poona — The Reverend H. Cassidy — Badjee- Row, the ex-Peishwa — Some account of the Capital of the Mahratta Empire — The Native City— The Sanscrit College — Interior of the Palace — Government Schools — Delightful Climate — A Visit to the Hospitals — Cave Temple of Bambourda — Its great extent — Scotch Free Kirk— The English Church— Hill Temple of Parbutty— Brahmin Guide — Valuable Idols — Country Seat of Nana Furnavese — Brahminy Bulls — Palace of Scindia — A Ride on an Elephant — The Market-place — A Snake-Charmer — Tomb of Emma Roberts — A Sporting Ameer — The Jail — The Baag Nouk, or Tiger's Claw — The Poona Gun, or Curfew— Mess of the Royal Horse Artillery. . CONTENTS. CHAPTER XIIT. Excursion to Bombay— The Caves of Birsa— A Disappointment—Second Visit to Karli — Hindoo Fetes of Jattera— Journey down the Bore Ghaut— Chowk — Road to Callian —Halt for the Night— Hindoo Festival— A Nocturnal Adventure— Some Account of Callian— The Author loses his Way— Colsette Ferry— Bungalow at Tannah — The Fort described — Beauties of Gora-bunder — Deserted City of Bassein — Return to Bombay — A Visit to the Caves of Kanari — Carvings and Inscriptions — Accounts of Travellers. 242

Chapter XIV

The " Herefordshire" sails for London with wounded Soldiers — The Author proceeds to China in the " Charlotte Jane" — Her Crew and Appointments — Run across the Bay of Bengal — Sudden Squall — Nicobar Islands, and Coast of Sumatra — Golden Mountain — Malay Proas — A Mutiny on Board — Singular Feature m the Straits of Malacca — Islands of Pulo Verela and Pulo Jarra — Captain Barkly — Two-and-a- Half Fathom Bank — Fearful Tempest — Anecdote of a Soldier — A Heart-rending Scene 264 Appendix .

Chapter I

Desire to Visit the East — Embark inthe " Herefordshire"- - Her Crew and Appointments — Bay of Biscay — A Fatality — View of Madeira — Flying-Fish, Sharks and Sea-Gulls — A Blue Shark captured — Thermometer in the Tropics — Sea-Bathing — A Calm — A Perilous Adventure — The Monster's Sagacity — Ceremonies of Crossing the Line — The Coast of Brazil — The Albatross described — Its Voracity — View of Table Mountain. A great desire to visit the East, had always been with me a taste not easy to gratify, when unexpectedly circumstances occurred which enabled me to accomplish my wishes, beyond my most sanguine ex pectations. On the 6th of October, 1848, 1 embarked at Portsmouth on board of the "Herefordshire," Captain Richardson, bound to the Cape of Good Hope and Bombay. The " Hereford- VOL. I. B shire " is one of the old East India Company's teak-built ships, of which there are only three others left.

She is 1,600 tons, pierced for forty guns, and carries one hundred men. In the Company's time, her crew was one hundred and fifty, and her armament com plete : she is the size of a fiftygun frigate ; and, when used as a troop-ship, has carried on the gun and orlop decks 800 men. Three years ago, she left New York, drawing twenty -five feet water, being loaded with flour for the Irish famine : a seventy-four-gun ship draws no more. She sails very fast, and is the easiest ship at sea I ever was in. After five or six days beating down Channel under double-reefed topsails, we saw the Lizard light for the last time on the 12th, and, having entered the Bay of Biscay, that classic region of storms, under most favourable auspices, the wind right aft and all our white canvass swelling with the breeze, we had just dined, and were sitting gaily over our wine, when the cry of "a man overboard !" resounded through the ship.

I sprang upon deck, and ran towards the life-buo}--, which I found the boatswain's mate in the act of cutting away. About fifty yards astern, a fine young sailor was struggling against the waves, and looking up towards us with an aspect of despair mingled with rays of hope. He swam towards the life-buoy, and was said to have been seen to grasp it, by some hands stationed on the main-yard. A cutter manned by six picked men, with the third officer, pulled off immediately to his rescue ; there was a considerable amount of sea on at the time, which prevented the men in the boat from distinguishing an object at any distance from them, and from the ship he was entirely lost sight of. The sailors having pulled against a hard wind for more than an hour, without any chance of success, a signal was made for their recall.

The ship being before the wind when the accident occurred, was very much against the man's being picked up, and, in rounding to, we carried away the fore-topsail yard ; the immense spar broke like a reed, and two b hands at work upon it had a narrow escape from being precipitated on deck. The yards were now squared, and the breeze increasing soon carried us far away from the resting place of the unfortunate sailor. The affability of our excellent Captain, and constant fine weather, made us find the time pass agreeably, nothing occurring but the usual routine of speaking ships, or exchang ing signals, until the 19 th, when we arrived off the far-famed island of Madeira, keeping it in sight all day, on the larboard side distant about fifteen miles. It appears a high bold land, terminating abruptly towards the southern extremity.

With the glass, we could easily distinguish the green trees, and a few buildings on different parts of the island, as we passed along almost becalmed in front of it. This is the second time I have been tantalized with a distant view of Madeira, which, much to my regret, has ended in a view, " et preterea nihil." Every day now makes a sensible difference in the temperature as we approach the tropics, and the ocean begins to have more signs of life. Innumerable porpoises gambol around the ship ; a grampus is seen sporting astern, and shoals of flying-fish dart suddenly by, disappearing in the water for a minute, then rising again in the air, pursued by some of the larger fish that prey upon them. Bo netas, albicores and dolphins, are all good eating, and offer much sport to the angler. The nautilus, called by sailors Portuguese man-of-war, is constantly met with sailing along, and boobies, a species of seagull, alight upon the rigging, where they allow themselves to be caught by hand.

Occasionally, a large whale is seen spouting in the distance, which, with sharks and pilot-fish, serve to break up the monotony of a long sea voyage. Soon after we .had entered the tropic of Cancer, two large sharks, the first we had yet seen, were swimming a few yards from the ship. Two good shark-hooks, baited with salt pork, were soon towing astern, and a minute afterwards one fish turning himself on his back took the bait, and was quickly hauled on board. It was a blue shark, about eight feet long, each jaw having three rows of teeth; a remora, or sucking fish, was adhering to its side. It was soon cut to pieces by the sailors, who rather like it as it affords them a fresh mess. We had some fried for dinner, and it is not bad eating for a change. I found the range of the thermometer in the tropics at sea, in the shade, to be from 80 to 86, varying little night or day, and the temperature of the water the same as that of the air, which renders sea-bathing very delightful and conducive to health.

This can be had early in the morning on deck, but I have sometimes during a calm been tempted to have a swim overboard, which is not an uncommon thing for the crew to do, however imprudent such a step must be, even should no shark at the time be in sight. I remember well, in 1842, when return ing from Australasia, we had just arrived within a few degrees of the Equator, having run through the south-east-trade, where calms and variables are always to be ex pected, but seldom to the extent that fell to our lot. Becalmed off the coast of the Brazils, under a vertical sun, we lay during twelve successive days, with the helm lashed a-lee, hke a log upon the water. Not a breath of air was stirring ; and the only noise heard was the flapping of the useless sails against the masts, and the grumbling of the sailors, who prefer even the tempest to the tedi ous monotony of a calm.

The passengers were trying to kill time by various de vices. Some amused themselves by shoot ing at a target hung out from the topsail yard-arm; others resorted to gymnastics amongst the spars and rigging, but the ex cessive heat, and the unrippled stillness of the ocean, tempted a gentleman and myself to indulge in the renovating luxury of a bath. To this the chances of meeting with a shark presented the only objection; but we had not seen one for several days, although certainly two pilot-fish had been found playing under the rudder-case the day before. The desire of sea-bathing under the Line was, however, so great that it overcame our apprehensions, and the order having been given to man the cutter and lower away, we at once found ourselves upon the placid waters. No sooner had the boat left the ship's side, than two pilot-fish were observed to dart out from their hiding place.

My friend quickly undressed and sprang into the sea, but had scarcely swam round the cutter when he became alarmed, and, although an ex cellent swimmer, begged of us to help him in directly. He seemed as if he had a presen timent of evil. We laughed at his excited state and with some little delay, owing to the height of the gunwale, got him into the boat. One minute had not elapsed from the time he left the water, when the second officer called out from the forecastle, " a large shark on the lee bow!" We all of course thought it was in joke, and whilst looking in that direction without seeing anything " There, There ! close alongside the boat ! — " was echoed from a hundred voices, all point ing at once to the same spot. We then plainly saw, floating on the surface of the water, this immense monster of the deep, so near to the boat that we could have touched itwith our hands.

It was a grey shark, one of the worst species, and reached from stem to stern of the cutter, a length of eighteen feet: his faithful attendants, the pilot-fish, as usual were at his sides. It swain several times around us, as if disappointed of his prey, whilst we congratulated our friend upon his miraculous escape, which, long after, afforded a subject of merriment. During this time, they were not idle on board the ship. The shark-hook was baited with a couple of pounds of salt pork, and rigged out over the taffrail: the fish approached the bait reluctantly, and would not touch it, he had missed his man, and he knew the difference : it was a fresh mess he wanted. All eyes were watching the hook with anxiety, but it would not do. He swam round and round the ship for B two hours constantly, with the pilot-fish that invariably accompany him.

No ar tifice could induce him to touch the bait, which at any other time would have been most eagerly caught at. He had lost his intended bonne bouche, and nothing could satisfy him in its place. At last, he took his departure, and his sharp dorsal fin, which is generally seen above the surface of the water, was soon lost in the distance. We have now been just one month at sea, and passing the rock of St. Paul's situated near the Equator, Neptune's Secretary came on board in the evening, amidst the burning of blue lights and tar-barrels, to announce the intended visit of the God of the sea on our crossing the Line, and to obtain the list of all those who had never yet entered his dominions. The next day we crossed the Line, when Neptune himself came on board, and was drawn in his car in state round the decks by four sailors disguised as bears.

His other attendants, in grotesque costumes, formed procession, which was well got up, the ceremony having been sanctioned by the captain, on condition that it should be con fined to the crew, and put a stop to by them when ordered to " knock off." About thirty of the sailors underwent the usual ordeal of shaving, and subsequent ducking, in a large tub filled with salt water, not of the purest description. At noon the decks were cleared, and everything terminated very pleasantly. In the evening, the men amused themselves by singing and dancing on the quarter-deck, when extra grog was served out to them, and thus ended a ceremony which, harmless in itself, has been the cause of so many abuses, that some captains object to its performance. I think in a ship with proper discipline, and a little care in the distribution of spirits, such a recreation can be but useful, and is generally looked forward to by passengers as one of the sights of an Indian voyage, that one could hardly fancy complete without it.

The north-east-trade has carried us more to the westward than is desirable, and we are off the island of Ferdinand de_ No ronha, on the coast of Brazil, used by that government as a place for convicts. Flocks of white gulls all around show the vicinity of the land. We pass not far from the islands of Martin Vas and Trinidad, and begin to haul up for the Cape of Good Hope. Leaving the tropic of Capricorn, we soon lose sight of flying-fish, bonetas, and other tropical com panions, and fall in with Cape hens, Cape pigeons, and the stately albatross, which is seldom seen in the tropics Amongst the various interesting objects met with in a long sea voyage, the albatross certainly ranks the foremost. Its immense size, its beautiful white plumage, and the majestic manner in which it sails rapidly along with out moving its expanded wings, render it the most splendid sight that it is possible to behold.

They are not generally met with before reaching 30° south latitude, when they begin to appear, and increase in numbers as we get into the cold regions of southern hemisphere. Off the Cape of Good Hope they are exceedingly numerous, and afford a great deal of sport to the passengers on board ship, who pass the time away in shooting at them, or fishing for them with a fine and baited hook. The sailors call them South Sea-men, and believe that every captain of a South Sea man who dies is transformed into an albatross, still to haunt the seas he was accustomed to roam upon during his life; this and many other superstitious sayings are connected with them ; I had heard many disputes arise about their dimensions, and some are apt to overrate them. The largest we ever caught measured twelve feet from the tip of one wing to the tip of the other.

We caught several measuring from one to two feet less. A captain who had been cast away on the barren island of Tristan da Cunha, and had subsisted there for two years, principally on their eggs, had had most ample opportuni ties of ascertaining the real facts, and he assured me that he had never taken one measurinoi* more than thirteen feet. I have seen an account of one in the museum at Cape Town, the largest ever caught, it is seventeen feet from the tip of one wing to the tip of the other. The albatross must only be seen on the wing ; when taken, and got on deck, it is the most helpless, awkward looking bird imaginable : it vomits directly, and tumbles about, being quite unable to raise itself and fly away. Its voracity is well marked, and it is the constant companion of ships, following in their wake to pick up what is cast over board.