Pictures from the Pyrenees; or Agnes' and Kate's travels ... With numerous illustrations

Front matter

PEASANTS OF EAUX BONNES PICTUEES FROM THE PYRENEES; OI AGNES' AND KATE'S TRAVELS. BV CAROLINE BELL. CRADLE OF HENRI QUATRE AT PAU. JiHitft illustrations. LONDON: GRIFFITH AND FARRAN, LATE GRANT AND GRIFFITH, SUCCESSORS TO NEWBERY AND HARRIS, CORNER OF ST. PAUL'S CHURCHYARD. 1857. LONDON : PRINTED BY J. WERTHEI11ER & CO. CIRCUS PLACE, FINSBURY U1RCU8. TO ALL THE DEAR YOUNG FRIENDS WHO HAVE VISITED ME IN MY RESIDENCE AT PAU, THIS LITTLE WORK IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED. Kue Gaston, October, 1856. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Peasants of Eaux Bonnes Frontispiece Cradle of Henri IV Title-page Cafetiere for Hot Water Page 14 Pyreneau Bullock Cart „ 33 General View of Pau ,40 Court of the Chateau at Pau „ 46 Farm House at Bilheres . . „ 72 House in which Bemadotte was born ,76 Signatures of Henri IV. and his Sister Catherine . . . „ 78 Pont d'Enfer Eaux Chaudes „ 90 Peasant's Dance „ 100 Hatmakers' Vallee d'Ossau ,.110 Pic du Midi d'Ossau ,, 121 Bagneres from the Camp de Cesar „ 126 La Source de Salies, Baths, etc. , 129 Man selling Stockings ......... 137 Ruins of St. Savin ......... n 151 Templars' Church at Luz . . . . . . . „ 153 Ptrenean Peasants ,,155 Chaise a Porteurs ,,158 View from the Top of Bergons ,,168 High Koad to Cauterets ,,184 CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Page

The Project discussed — Farewell to England — Boulogne — First Experiences of foreign Ways I

Chapter II

French Bread — The Journey continued — Amiens — Orleans — A Visit to a French Country-house — French Washerwomen — Tours 1 5

CHAPTER IIL

Chatelheranlt. — Poitiers — Angouleme — Bordeaux Vineyards — The Landes — A Thunderstorm — Mont de Marsan — Look out for the Pyrenees 26

Chapter IV

The Hotel de France at Pau — The D'Herville Family — La Place Royale — The Market — House-hunting — An evening Visit to the Chateaux and the Park 35

Chapter V

Sunrise — The Wood-market — Mr. Talbot's House in the Basse Piante — Spending the Day at Gelos 52

CHAPTER VL

The Temple at Pau. — Head-dresses — A Walk to Bilheres — La Fontaine des Cent Ecus — Peasant Weddings — Henri IV's Fostermother's Cottage 64

Chapter XI

English Friends — A Picnic Party to Gabas — Plateau de Bious — Artigues — The Izzard — A sylvan Dining-hall . . .116 CHAPTER Xn. From Pau to Tarbes and Bagneres de Bigorre — Mademoiselle Malan's House — Polished Floors — Boiling Springs of Salies — Pyrenean Pigs — Market-day — The Customs — Pyrenean Knitting — Stocking Auction — Marble Works — French Protestant Service at Bagneres — Mademoiselle Malan's Butterflies — Labassere . . 125 CHAPTER XHI. From Bagneres to Lourdes — Edward the Black Prince, Prince of Aquitania — Argelez — St. Savin — Arrival at Luz — The Templars' Church — Sainte Marie — Honorine again — An unexpected Visitor — A Funeral — Buckwheat Pancakes .... 148

CHAPTER XIV.

Ascent ofthe Pic de Bergons — Churning in a Pig's Skin — Roland's Breach — Gavarnie — From Luz to Barreges — Visit to poor Ursule — Crepe de Barreges 166

CHAPTER XV.

Gedre — The Chaos of Gavarnie — Monsieur D'Herville's wonderful Stories — Cabane at the Cirque de Gavarnie — The highest Waterfall in the World — The Return to Luz 176

CHAPTER XVI.

Journey to Cauterets — The Sublime and the Ridiculous on the Grande Route — Baths of La Bailli&re — Expedition to the Pont d'Espagne and Lac de Gaube j§4

CHAPTER XVII.

Breaking up of the Summer Weather — The hot Wind — Poor Honorine! — A Souvenir de Cauterets — Shepherds' Watchfires — Partings and Meetings — Conclusion j94 OR, AGNES AND KATE'S TRAVELS.

Chapter I

The Project discussed — Farewell to England — Boulogne — First Experiences of Foreign Ways. "We are to go, we are to go too ! " cried Agnes loudly, as she flew down the gravel-walk to the grass-plot, near which her sister was busy in weeding her little garden ; " we are not to be left behind, dear Katie; and we shall go on a railroad, and cross the sea in a steamboat, and sleep at an inn, and I do n't know what we shall not see ! " Kate stood with the little hoe between her two hands, her large blue eyes opened wider than usual, quite as breath less with surprise as her little sister was with running, and unable to form any clear notion what these hurried sen tences meant. Agnes threw her arms round her neck, saying : — " Are you not pleased, dear? Are you not delighted?" " I don't know ; I can't tell," said little Kate, confusedly.

"What does it all mean? Suppose we sit down in the shade, and you try quietly to make me understand, dear r; Aggy;" and down they threw themselves on a heap of sweet grass, which the old gardener had mowed early that morning. Agnes Talbot was eleven years old, and Kate about nine; both amiable and well brought up girls; but while the elder was quick, lively in spirits, and a little curious, Kate was more quiet and shy, and more thoughtful, though not ap parently so eager in listening to, and looking into, everything tbat went on. " Well now, my dear, we are nicely seated," said Kate, " and don't fidget any more, but tell me all about every thing."

" I wonder you don't begin to think," answered Agnes, " and remember how papa was talking the other day to mama on the sofa close to the window, while we were sitting on the steps leading out of it to the garden — oh ! but you were reading, to be sure, and not trying to listen — then he got a great map of France, and said something about a large carriage, and the railway, and it being a long time to leave them in England, and mama said something in her gentle voice that I could not hear; besides, I did not wish to listen when I thought they meant to speak low ; so then I was sure that dear mama, who you know is not strong, was going away, for I remembered Dr. Forster said, ' I wish you would go to a warm country before next winter;' and then — now don't laugh at me — I went away into the shrubbery and cried a little, because I was sure that we were to be sent somewhere, for somebody or other to take care of; but I did not like to make you cry, Kate; so now you have nothing but all the pleasure to hear of, for there is papa again with the great map; and mama and he asked whether I should like to go a journey with them, and see cities, and churches, and palaces, and mountains, and I said, 'Yes,' if you were to go also; and then I ran out of the room as fast as I could; and now, my dear, is not this delightful?"

Upon this they both jumped up, and danced about on the grass, and laughed and kissed each other from joy till they were fairly out of breath. " When somewhat composed, they returned with happy faces to the house and found their Mama in her own pretty morning-room, lying on the sofa reading a letter. " Well, Kate," said she, " shall you like to leave your little garden, your dog and pretty birds, to travel a great distance off, and be a long while away?" " Yes, dear Mama, with you and Papa, and our dear good Sutton ; but I am sure she would be very unhappy if we were to leave her behind." "But when are we to set out, and where are we going?" asked the eager Agnes. " To Pau, in the Pyrenees, my dear," said Mrs. Talbot. "To the Pyrenees, Mama? To the real mountains that we used to learn on {he map between France and Spain, where I used to think it would be so delightful just to stand on a nice high point and first peep into the one country and then into the other?"

" I cannot promise you that pleasure," said her mother, laughing ; " but I am now reading a letter from a dear friend in that country, who says that even little girls may go up higher mountains, and be nearer snowy peaks, than you have any notion of; and there are many ways in which I expect you will derive both pleasure and improvement. ' " Improvement, Mama? 0 yes! I suppose we shall learn a little more French in that country; but will there be any body in those mountains to teach us anything else?" asked Kate. " I hope, my dear little girl, that during our travels you may see and hear many things from which, perhaps, you will derive information. Remember the story of ' Eyes and no Eyes,' and take care to use yours on all occasions, like ' William,' and then, as papa enjoys answering the questions of his little girls, I dare say you will learn much that is useful, without your regular daily lessons."

" How funny all this sounds, does it not, Katie? And shall we not be happy? But you look as if you were puzzled," said Agnes; " and why do you stare so, Katie?" " Because I feel as if mama is telling us a story of two other little girls, and not as if really you and I were going this wonderful journey ! But yet I am very happy," replied Kate. " Suppose, my dears," said Mrs. Talbot, " you go and talk to Sutton about it, and you will find it is all real; for I let her know of the probability of this plan some time ago, and as I am rather tired with speaking, you may ask her to tell you a little about how we are going to travel, and consult with her about your own things. She can help you to make out a list of the books and playthings you would like to take with you." In a moment away sprang our lively little friend, followed by Kate, now unusually quick in her movements, for she too, was anxious to have what she called " a good talk " with their " dear Sutton," and then she should be sure it was " all reality."

Sutton, their maid, was a young woman who had lost her parents while yet a child, and had been brought up by a kind, sensible lady, who not only had her well taught in all common branches of an English education, but also read to her, while employed in needlework, many excellent books, for the improvement of her mind. So that these fortunate little girls had, in Sutton, a pleasant, judicious assistant to their dear mama, who (for her part) had a great regard for her servant, and perfect reliance on her. • When Agnes had exhausted her wild spirits, and was at last glad to rest in her own favorite corner of their pretty lesson-room, where Sutton was at work, Katie began in quiring how long Sutton had known of their " expected happiness." Sutton replied: '• I have known for some time past that your papa wished to make some great change, on account of your mama's not having grown strong, nor as cheerful as she used to be, ever since the time when you lost your dear little baby brother."

At these words, Agnes and Kate looked very grave and attentive, while the maid went on to tell how their papa had been afraid at first, that if he took them also on the journey, their mama would not be without trouble and anxiety. He had consulted a little with Sutton, at Mrs. Talbot's suggestion, and Sutton thought that her mistress' anxiety would be greater if they were left in England ; and that if there was a large dicky behind the carriage, she and the children could often be there together, so as to give both space and quiet to their mama. " And so you, dear, goodnatured, clever Sutton, you, then, are partly the cause of our going this delightful journey," said Agnes, and thereupon flew across the room to kiss and hug Sutton, not in the least minding how she ran the needle into poor Sutton's finger, and swept her work all off the table.

In a few minutes, both the little girls resumed their questioning; and they then learnt that it was to be a very large pleasant carriage, in which mama could lie down, as on her sofa; that/ there were nice chestsof-drawers under each seat, where their linen would lie as tidily as Sutton kept it at home; and a book-case in front, besides all kinds of useful pockets. " But, Sutton, where are we to put our bonnets, and our music, and lesson-books, and the microscope, and our dear dolls, besides the drawing-box? But I suppose you will laugh at girls going to the Pyrenees thinking oi dolls at all, or of what I suppose you would call toys." " 0 no, I shall not laugh at you, my dears," replied Sutton ; " and I think it would be a great pity to leave those very pretty new dolls behind. Do n't you remember that your mama has an old friend at Pau, and that that lady, Madame D'Herville, has some very nice children, both boys and girls?

Your dolls will, perhaps, be as amusinofor them to see, as you thought that pretty Chinese lady^in full dress, which your uncle brought home for your Cousin Ellen. And when you leave France, perhaps you may give your dolls to the youngest little girls, as you will then indeed think yourselves beyond such things. It will be a very good plan if you and your sister now put on the large table at the end of the room, all that you would wish to have with you." " If there are little children in that country," said Kate, " I mean if we shall know any, I shall look out all my nicest story-books, and even some of the old baby books which are not torn, for perhaps some very little children may like them." " But, my darling Katie, what nonsense to take English books to French children ! How can they be of any use to them?" said Agnes.

" We had better ask mama if French children do not learn English, just as we are beginning to learn French," answered Kate quietly. At this moment their papa's voice was heard, and he put his head into the room; but before he could speak to Sutton, the little girls flew to him, and began both at once question ing him about Madame D'Herville's children, and whether they understood English. To this, Mr. Talbot could only answer, that as Madame D'Herville's mother was an English lady, and had always spoken English to her daughter, it was most likely the children, too, could speak it, or at least understand it. He told them, too, that Madame D'Herville's mother's name was De Monta; and that, as she was now a widow, she lived with her daughter's family. " Well, I am glad," said Agnes, " that we shall not have to sit stupidly looking at each other when we see her children there.

I should not like to have to sit without saying a word; or, perhaps, to have to make signs for everything, as Uncle Sam did when he wanted the Sandwich Islanders to give him something to eat, and cackled like a hen, to try and get an egg !" " I hope, my dear child, said her papa, laughing, " that you and Kate mean to be so very industrious with French, that there will be no likelihood of much silence between you and your friends at Pau. But I must not stand chat tering with my little daughters now, when there is so much to be attended to. Now, Sutton, as the carriage drawers will be sent home this evening, as well as the large boxes for caps and bonnets, you must make the children be useful and help you; and try to have everything ready by Friday, so that we may reach our friends near Maidstone on Saturday afternoon, and that will give us a happy day of rest, and an opportunity of going again to one of our own pretty English churches before leaving them for a long while."

" Why, dear papa, are there no churches in France?" said Kate, rather sorrowfully. " You forget, my dear," answered Mr. Talbot, " how much you have read in history about the Roman Catholic religion, which is established in that country. I am glad to tell you that, besides the Roman Catholic churches, there are now, in different quarters, many Protestant places of worship. And at Pau, in particular, there is a very neat little church, or " temple," as the French call it, to dis tinguish it from the parish churches. But if you have any more questions to ask, you must get Sutton to answer them, if she can, for I want to go and pack for mama, in order that she may keep very quiet." Thereupon Mr. Talbot lest the room ; and the little girls began in real earnest to follow Sutton's advice, and (for children of their age) made a very good selection of useful and entertaining articles.

There were two nicely sitted-up rosewood work-boxes, just the thing for making little girls tidy; and their mama had ordered a third one, just like them, to take as a present to the eldest of Madame D'Her ville's daughters, who was about two years older than Agnes. But we must not attempt to give any account ofthe books and the toys they were to take, or we shall never get on to the account of the journey. It may be sufficient to say, that on Thursday evening ail was packed, and the carriage stood in the coach-yard ready for horses the follow ing morning. Some relations of Mrs. Talbot's were to occupy their pretty country-house during the absence of the Talbot family; and it was a great satisfaction to them all, when they thought that they should hear every now and then, from some one of this family, of their gardens, and pets of all kinds, — not forgetting the poor people of the village.

When the parting moment came, the children hung about their dear Cousin Anna, entreating her care for their dog, their rose-bushes, their tame birds, and an endless list of favourites. She promised to try to remember all their injunctions. Then came the kisses and waving of hands, as the carriage started off round the sweep and down the dear old avenue. And now the journey is really begun ! Agnes felt her heart swell a little, and she thought she saw some tears trickling out of Katie's eyes. They had both contrived to place themselves comfortably along with Sutton in the roomy seat behind the carriage; but Sutton did not speak to them at all at first, except to say she was glad her mistress could be so quiet inside with the one who best knew how to soothe any natural agitation arising from leaving a loved home for a long period.

In less than an hour, however, our little friends' tongues were loosened in admiration of the beauty of the morning, and the scenery. And soon afterwards a merry laugh was heard, when papa spoke up to them through the tiny window in the back of the carriage, which opened like a little door. He followed up his words by handing out of it a nice basket of cherries, which were very welcome, as no one had eaten much before setting out ; and we all know how refreshing ripe cherries are, — to say nothing of the amusement of " bob-cherry," in which Agnes and Katie made Sutton join them. The day passed rapidly away; everything was delightful to the children. It was only the third of June, but the evening was so long and warm, that after resting in the hot part of the afternoon, and dining at one inn, they had a sweet drive by sunset, and by moonlight, to another pretty whitewashed inn, where they slept, — a great event to these young travellers, who had never passed a night in an inn before.

The next day they went pleasantly on through beautiful Kent (" the garden of England," as their papa told them it was often called), till they reached the house of the friend near Maidstone, whom Mr. Talbot had said they were to visit. Here they passed a quiet happy Sunday, that was often looked back to with pleasure when they were far away. From thence on the Monday they posted to Folkestone, where they embarked on board the steamer that was to take them across to Boulogne. Everything on board was new to the little girls, and they were at first much entertained by walking with their Papa to the different parts of the Steamer. Presently, however, Kate sat down quietly by her mother (who was snugly placed in a sheltered corner); and Agnes felt an odd disagreeable sensation begin to come over her, which she did not at first like to say any thing about; but Sutton saw her white cheeks and lips, and advised her to go to the carriage, where she would lay her on her Mama's cushion bed, and then, perhaps, the sea sickness which threatened her, might not increase.

The weather was delightful, and in about two hours they saw the heights of Boulogne. Kate then went to see how Agnes was, and found the plan of keeping quite still in the carriage had answered very well; in a few minutes her bonnet was put on, and Agnes jumped down to the deck as gay as when they had set off. They both ran to their mother, delighted at the novel and pretty prospect, for they were gliding into Boulogne harbour, with a beautiful sunset lighting up the white green-shuttered houses, along a pier where crowds of gaily dressed persons were mixed up with men, women, and children in such singular costumes that Agnes and Kate could scarcely refrain from exclaiming aloud. After a great deal of noise and confusion (rather frighten ing to Kate, but which Agnes thought only very comical, as she felt herself quite safe in keeping tight hold of Sutton's hand), they were all landed, and walked across an open space of ground to a house nearly opposite to the steamer, greatly amused, but nearly stunned by the shouts and eager efforts of the crowd of men with cards of address for hotels, carriages, washerwomen, &c. All these advertisements were screeched by the men, at the very top of their voices, and were quite unintelligible to our little travellers, who were very glad when they were released from the custom-house, and found a carriage waiting to take them to an hotel.

Before Agnes or her sister had had time for a remark on all that had passed, or even for a laugh at the strange vehicle they were in, it drove into a large court-yard, into which looked innumerable windows; and not a few heads were popped out of them, to see who were the new-comers to the hotel. They passed up a great staircase, and along a gallery full of doors, one of which was thrown open to them, and the children ran immediately into a pretty salon (drawing-room). They looked round them for one instant, and then skipped across the room to the large open windows, in at which the last rays ofthe sun were pouring, just over the low ridge of sand-hills across the harbour. The tide was up, the water covered with boats, and the banks with pretty groups strolling in all directions, enjoying the cool breeze.

"How pretty! How very pretty!" said Agnes, "Oh, Papa, I shall not like to go away from this place the day after to-morrow." " But, Aggy," said Kate, " come and look at the bed rooms, — this is Mama's, and this is our's, — and are not the beds pretty? and such fine flowervases, and beautiful clocks, quite like a drawing-room at home !" " Yes," replied Agnes, in ecstasies with every thin °- " And what gay chimney-boards ! Look at Mama's, it has a picture on it of a lady weeping over a monument, with a large tree shading it, on a high hill overlooking the sea, and under it is written, ' the tomb of Napoleon !' But dear Mama, do the French people put away their grates every summer?" continued the lively little girl, peeping behind one of the chimney-boards, " for there is nothing here but a great empty hearth, with two pieces of iron, and a pair of tongs laid across them."

At this Mr. Talbot laughed heartily, and explained to his children that grates are not used in France, where wood is the common fuel. He said, " When great logs of wood are laid across these dogs (as the iron things are called), and lighted up with a quantity of petit bois' (small sticks), or faggots, it makes a delightful blazing fire; and when there is a good bed of ashes (which should never be cleared away) the heat is nearly as great as from a coal fire." A comfortable dinner was soon arranged for the hungry party. And this meal proved as much a source of amusement to the little girls as everything else, especially when the " gar gon" (waiter) poured out nearly half a tumbler-full of wine for each of them ! Agnes said they should not know Kate if she took all that wine, for she would be like " Dame Trot's cat, after her mistress's gay supper."

But Mr. Talbot explained to her that this was a very weak or "Ih-ht" kind of wine; and that, when mixed with a little water, it forms the usual dinner drink in France. " The French are not generally an intemperate people," added Mr. Talbot, "And you see there are no small glasses put down for taking wine alone. But now, as dinner is over, we must all prepare for sleeping, not talking ; or else my little girls will not awake early, and then, perhaps, they may lose some pleasure to-morrow." " What pleasure? I wonder;" said Agnes, " though in deed every day now seems to have some pleasure, dear Papa.' Then she and Katie kissed their parents, and, wishing them " good night," ran into their own room. But eyen then their happy spirits were not worn out, and before Sutton undressed them, they had some more hearty laughs, over the great square pillows with frilled covers (in which Katie said she would be smothered), and the comical tin vessels for hot water.

" This one is like the picture of the grasshopper dancing, in my story-book," said Agnes. And then to see, through the still open door, the tea-kettle brought into their mother's room, and put down o« the floor close to her dressing table, caused a fresh burst of merriment. But Sutton explained that there was nothing dirty in the wood-ashes among which these pots and kettles were set to heat, and that therefore they would not blacken the floor. Their Mama came to look at her darlings, and to kiss them once more, before she herself went to bed ; and as she did so, Katie opened her eyes and looked up. " Is it you, Mama?" she said, " I was only half asleep, I think, Mama; and I was dreaming about the sea, and thinking of how the Apostles saw our Lord walking over it ! That seems more wonderful now I have seen it."

" Yes, my child," said her mother, " it is when one has been a voyage that one realizes the feeling which made them exclaim, ' What manner of man is this, that even the wind and the sea obey him !' "

Chapter II

French Bread — The Journey continued — Amiens — Orleans — A Visit to a French Country-house — French Washerwomen — Tours. The following morning they were off early after their breakfast of bread and butter, and " cafe au lait," which the children thought very nice. Just before it was ready, their papa called to them to look down into the street, where a lad in, a flannel jacket was crossing to the hotel. " What would you think of Mr. Payne, our baker in England, if he brought us the bread in that way, my dears?" asked Mr. Talbot, laughing. " And which of all those sorts of loaves shall we ask to have for breakfast?" " 0 papa, are you not joking? Is that strange brown ring the boy has put like a crown on his powdery head really a loaf of bread? And that long thing like a walking-stick, too?

Pray let us rather have some of those funny-shaped little loaves in his basket." These were brought in, and were found to be so good, that some were taken for luncheon in the carriage, with a basket of delicious fruit. The little girls did not think the country over which they passed that day very pretty; so they employed them selves, at their father's suggestion, in naming over all the remarkable events which had happened in this part of France. First they puzzled one another with questions about Boulogne and its old ramparts, which Henry VIII. had almost battered to pieces, and its great bronze bust of Henri II., which Agnes admired so much; and then there was Cressy, too, where our Black Prince won his spurs of knighthood, and the plume of feathers which the Princes of Wales are still distinguished by.