Persia, the Land of the Imams. A narrative of travel and residence, 1871-1885

Preface

. The name Persia is not known to the people inhabiting the country so called by Europeans. Persians call their land, Eran. This name is evidently from Arya or Ariya, whence we have the form Iranian and Iran. The term Persia comes to us from the Greeks, who derived it from the term Fars or Pars, the designation, at this time, of a province of Eran. The country called Persia has been designated by several terms which were emblematic only; as, "The Land of Fire," to denote the worship of fire ; " The Land of the Sun," expressive of the brilliancy ofthe sunlight, and possibly in allusion to the reverence paid to the sun ; " The Land ofthe Lion and the Sun," since the flag of Persia has the device, of the sun in the form of a human face peering above the back of a lion. The device is the symbol of intelligence, light, power and justice.

Per sians frequently call their country, " Memlakate Asna Asherain," or the Kingdom ofthe Twelve, meaning by this the twelve Imams of the house of Ale.

PREFACE.

. VI The traveller in that land will find in all the people the evidence of the power of the religious system bear ing this name. The people of all classes invoke the names of the Imams. The dervishes cry these names by day and by night ; the beggars in the highways ask alms in these names, and the shrines of the Sayeds sanctify many a hill and valley. I have therefore en titled this book, The Land of the Imams, considering the term an appropriate designation, and calculated to call attention to the most prominent feature of the country at this time. In eleven chapters, I have given a narrative of ex tended tours, and have given such information as seemed to be most profitable and interesting. In the remaining five chapters, I have endeavoured to give, in a comprehensive form, information obtained in the course of travel, and during a residence of eleven1 years in that country.

My sources of information, therefore, have been my own observations. So far as it has been necessary to refer to the past, I have drawn chiefly from Persian writers. The narrative begins in the year 1871, but covers any changes occurring in the state of the country to the close of 1884. In the orthography of Persian and Arabic names, I have en deavoured to adhere to the Persian and Arabic forms. 1 This term is exclusive of a brief period when the writer was absent from the country.

PREFACE.

. VII In some instances this, however, did not seem to be expedient. The years covered by these pages were years of some important changes in Persia. It has been my purpose to note these events ; and to treat of several subjects which are but little known to transient tour ists, or which are erroneously stated by them, if re ferred to at all. < The map has been prepared by the author at the suggestion of the publishers. It exhibits the routes travelled. In the preparation of it, special attention has been given to details of the eastern border of Persia. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Routes to Persia — Constantinople — The Bosphorus — Pera — Galata — Scutari — Ancient Chalcedon — Quays — Ancient City — Antiquities — St. Sophia — Protestant Missions — Americans — Voyage to Trebizond — Black Sea — Trebizond — Antiquity — Capture by Goths — Fate of the City — Population of the Modern City — Ancient Structures — Commercial Relations of the City, ... I

Chapter II

Coast of the Black Sea — -Roads and Distances — Customs of Travel — Cajavahs — Taktravan — Chavidars — Manner of Loading a Caravan — Road to Gumish Khanah — First Manzil — Tent Life — A Night Encampment — Bulut Dah or Village of the Clouds — Mountain Pass — Gumish Khanah — Beyburt — The Euphrates Valley, or Kara Su — Illijah — Erzeroum — Antiquities — The Plain — Climate — Present Condition of the City — Armenian Establishment — American Missionaries — Hassan Kalah — Boundary of Armenia and Kurdistan — Eastern Branch of the Euphrates — ■ Hoshcan — Ararat — Paskek — Kara Kallesia the Black Church — Troglodytes — Utch Kallesia — The Stage to Kizil Diza — Yezdees — Principal Tenets — Rites — Boundary between Turkey and Persia — The Land of the Shah — Descent to the Plain of Khoy — Pa Baba — Pass to the Plain of Salmas — Plain of Salmas — Missions of the Plain — Pass to Gavalan — The Plain of Oroomiah Sea or Lake — The Shahe Sea — The Shores of the Sea — Gavalan — Mission Premises and Early Enterprise — Ride to Oroomiah — Approach to the City — Death of Mr. Cochran, CONTENTS. X

Chapter III

Oroomiah — Population and Races — Location of the Missions — Environs — Climate, etc. — Productions of the Plain — Government of the District — Ardashir Khan — American Missionaries — Summary of the History of the Nestorians — Patriarchate of Mosul and Mar Elias — Of the Mar Shimoons — The Chaldean Nestorians — Distinguishing Tenets — Present Condition and Chief Characteristics — Effect of Missionary Effort — Statistics of the Mission in the Thirty-fourth year — Number of Nestorians — Ecclesiastical Organizations — Condition of Persia with reference to Missions in 1 87 1 — Language used — Schools — Press — Statistics — Stations and Out-stations — Method of Control, ... 41

Chapter IV

Departure from Oroomiah — Gavalan — Salmas — Alekand — Delamon — Construction of the Houses — Decoration — Kalasar— . Balakhanah — Kara Tapa — Sheik Walle — Course to Tabriz — Valley of the Adje Tchai — Distances — Diza Khalel — Ale Shah — Position of Tabriz — Aras Road — Telegraph — H. B. M. Consulate — Tabriz — Atropatene — Tavreez and Tauris — Tradition of Zobaide — Legend of the Cross — Armenians — Their Schools — Church — Number of Armenians in the Western Diocese — From Tabriz to Vasbinge — Stations to Meana — Aspect of the Country — Roads and Robbers — Punishments — Swift Retribution — Turkman Tchai — Famine — Descent to Meana — Valley of the Meana Tchai — The Village of Meana — Suffering from Famine — Ascent of the Koflan Kuh — Altitude — Description of the Mountain — The Kizil Uzen — Road to Jemalabad — The Village — Road to Zengan — Sirtchem — Nikpey — The Inn— Lutees and Amusements — Valley of the Uzen — Approach to Zengan — Mortality by Famine and Disease — Importance of Zengan — Resistance of the Babees in Zengan, 57

Chapter V

Zengan to Sultaneah — Palace of Fattah Ale Shah — Founding of Sultaneah — Principal Structures — Mausoleum of Mullah Hassan CONTENTS. XI 78 102 Kashe — Altitude and Position of Sultaneah — Route to Casveen — Horumdarah — Famine — Abhar, its Location and History Unreasonable Identification with Habor — Valley and Villages of the Kemah Rud — Seadum — Tat — Road to Casveen — Wells and Connaughts — Perils of Travel — Situation of Casveen — Gardens and Productions — History — Population — Routes to Tehran — Departure from Casveen — Night Marches — Anxiety of the Per sians and Imaginary Dangers — Haunts of the Assassins — The Story of Hassan — The Name Assassin — The Kurdish Warrior — An Episode — Kishlak to Tehran — Coal Mines — Karaj — The River and Village — Water Course to Tehran — Road from Karaj to Tehran — Approach to Tehran — Position of the City — Posi tion of Raghes and Ra — Entrance to Tehran — Situation — Rise to Importance — Changes in the City and its Improvement — Gates — Desert and Aspect of the Environs — Heat and Reptiles, . .

Chapter VI

Principal Structures of Tehran — Streets and Gates — Palace of the Sun — War Department — King's College — King's Treasury — King's Stables — Gardens — Gulishan — Lala Zar or Garden of Tulips — Tob Maidon or Place of the Cannon — Mosques of Tehran — Names of Precincts—^The Bazaars — Soldiers — .Water — Public Baths — British Legation — Quarters of the Armenians and Jews — Poie Kopak the Place of Execution — Palaces of the Shah on Shimron — Population of Tehran — Different Races — Origin of Jewish Colony — The Armenians — Graves of Europeans — Guebers of Tehran — Tower of Silence — Importance of Tehran — Telegraph Corps — The Shah — Habits of Life — Character — Famine in Tehran — Relief — Mortality among the Jews,

Chapter VII

Departure for Hamadan — March by Moonlight — Altitude of the Country — Khanabad Ruins — Kushak — Pass of the Karaghan Mountains — Bevaron — Altitude of the Pass — Damavand — Journey to the Armenian Villages of Karaghan — Condition of the CONTENTS. Armenians — Armenian Priest — Origin of the Colony — From Lar to Nobaron — Pass of the Vebel Islam — From Bevaron to Nobar on — The Village of Nobaron — Zara — River — Malagird — Victims of Famine — Alvand — Village of Shevarin — Situation of Hama dan — Altitude of the Plain and of Alvand — Ancient Cities — Dejoces — Ecbatana — Construction of the City — Ancient Splen dour — Cyrus — Identity of Achmetha and Ecbatana — Destruction of the City by Timour — Antiquities — Water Courses — Mauso leum of Avicinna — Population — Reduction by Famine and Cholera — Protestants — Antiquity of the Jewish Colony — The Shrine of Esther and Mordecai — Condition of the Armenians — Trade of Hamadan — Telegraph — From Hamadan to Oroomiah — Kamkase and Chibooklee — Altitude of the Country — Situa tion of Senah — Departure from Senah — Kurdish Villages — Souj Bolak — Sulduz — Country between Sulduz and Ravanduz — Mid night Manzil — Return to Seir — Tour of Mr. Stocking to Mosul and Death of Mrs. Stocking — Departure from Oroomiah for Tehran , no

Chapter VIII

Journey to Ispahan — General Features of the Country — Kanaragird — City of Koom — The Mausoleum of Fatimah — Sinsin — Kashan — Plain of Ispahan — Entrance to the City — Ride toward Julfah — The Zandah Rud — Antiquity of Ispahan — Persian History — Population — Origin of the Colony of Jews — Ruins — ■ Bridges — Avenues — Maidone Shah — Madrassahe Shah — Chehar Bogh— Chehil Sutun — Shaking Minarets — The River — Julfah — Character of the Colony — Relation to the Sufee Kings — The Ecclesiastical Establishment — The Archbishop — Diocese and Revenues — Roman Catholic Mission — Famine — Aid to Sufferers — Mr. Bruce — His Mission — Business of the Armenians — Trade of Ispahan — The Governor — The Sheik al Islam — Favourable Situation — Ruined State of Ispahan and Julfah 145

Chapter IX

From Tehran to the Black Sea — Routes — Ride to Casveen — Ride to Mazarah — Chapar and Caravan — The Hazan Pass — From CONTENTS. XIII 159 Hazan to Poie Chinar — Poie Chinar — The Shah Rud, or King River — Treeless and Forest Regions — Furious Winds — The Safeed Rud — Olive Groves — Rustumabad — Rice fields and Booths — From Rustumabad to Kudum — The People — Their Dwellings — Herds of Cattle — Ride to Rasht — Country between Rasht and Pere Bazaar — Navigation to Anzile — The Mord Aub — Situation of Anzile — Persian Ships and Russian Control- Mail Steamers — The Mechyle — Use of Petroleum for Fuel — Astara and Lankoran — Natural Harbour — Islands — Environs of Baku — Customs — Appearance — Population and Importance — Public Buildings — Languages — Cape — Apsheran — Petroleum Wells — Fire Temple — Transportation of Oil — Water of Baku — Russian Post — Country between Baku and Shirwan — Shirwan and Shamakha — Earthquakes — Sargis — The sect of the Molakans — Routes to Tiflis — Descent from the Caucasus — Rivers — Aug Tchai — River Cyrus or Kur — Gangah — Gessan — Situation of Tiflis — Altitude and Climate — Antiquity — Population — Empo rium — From Tiflis to Pote — Climate of Pote, and Mortality — Batoum — Russian Customs — Railway to Baku — Decline of Tiflis — People of the Caucasus — Return to Tehran,

Chapter X

From Tehran to Mashhad — Plain of Varomene — Site of Raghes — Arsacia — The Jorje Rud — Awanakafe — Passes of the Elburz and Roads — The Sardarak — Ruins — Conjectures as to the Pass called the Caspian Gates — Singular Speech of Simnon — Water Supply — The Kalah of Losgird — Simnon — The Mosque of Fattah Ale Shah— The Plain of Damgan— Ride to Dah Mullah — To Shah Rud — To Khairabad — The Azon — Maia Mai — Meon Dasht — The Cisterns — Narrative of Captivity among Turkmans — Situation of Meon Dasht — March to Abasabad — The Springs — The Chasm — Situation of Abasabad — Curious Marriage Custom — Route between Abasabad and Mazenan — The Kara Su — Sadrabad — Mazenan — Mahr — To Sabzewar — City of Sabzewar — Dangers of Travel by Caravan — Missionaries of the Bab — Ride to Zafaran — To Shore Aub — The Station Shore Aub — Road to Nishapoor — Cheman — Plain of Nishapoor — The City — Antiq- CONTENTS. XIV uity of the Place — Schools — Turquoise Mines — Persian Serpent and Scorpion Charmers 189

Chapter XI

Leave Nishapoor — Kadam Gah — Torook — Transportation of dead bodies — The country about Mashhad — Revenues of the Shrine — Salutations of the Pilgrims — Aspect of the City — Burial Place of Haroun al Rasheed — The Harem — Its Construction and Decoration — Expenditure of Funds — Miracles — Jins orTJemons — Power of the Mullahs — Sacred Character of the Asylum — Number of Pilgrims — Massacre of Jews and their Conversion to Islam — The Synagogue Tablet — Character and Occupation of the Jews — The Country to Sarakhs — The Turkmans in Mashhad — Natural Resources of this Section of the Country — Importance of Mashhad — Climate and Health — Country of the Turkmans — Relative Strength of the Tribes — The Takahs as Compared with other Tribes — Country inhabited by Takahs — Present Town of Merv — Gaghatai — Superstition and Jewish Exorcists — Government and Morals — Turkman Horses — Kizil Bashees — Delegation of Turkmans in Tehran — Ravages of the Russian Border and the Caspian Coast by Turkmans — The Situation in 1880 — Advance of Russians and the Situation in 1SS5 — The Present and Prospective Railway to Panj Dah — To the Indus — Effect on Persia, 218

Chapter XII

Area of Persia — Desert of Khorasan — The Interior of Persia — The Shores of the Seas and Altitudes — Mountain Ranges — Highest Peaks — Intermediate Mountains — Rivers — Irrigation — Heat — Changes of Seasons and the Diseases of the Country — The Caspian Coast — Soil — Productions — Cattle and Horses — Connaughts and their Cost — Gardens — Agricultural Implements — Raising of Stock — Coal and Minerals — Population — Roving Bands — State of Civilization — Languages — Literature — Scribes — Description of a Persian Book — Internal Improvements — Commerce — Cost of Living — Causes Preventing Improvement — Imports — Exports — Carpets — Persian Earthenware and Glass — Silk CONTENTS. XV and Velvet — Steel — Old Work — Porcelain — Rare Articles — Bricks and Masonry — Engraving — Hatim — Kalamdans — Mills — Wine — Process of Manufacture — Arak or Brandy — Unintoxi cating Drink — Condition of the People — Social Customs — Salu tations — The Sandals — Entertainment of Guests — Baths — Toilet of an Old School Persian — Habits of Life — Meals — Drunken ness — Penalty for — The Precepts of Mohammed as to Drink — Use of Opium — Sherbets and Drinks — Food — Women in Public — Social Entertainments of Women — Of Men — Marriage Rites — Funerals — Amusements — Persian Houses — Palaces — Anda rune and Berune — Musical Instruments and Musical Taste — Music Excluded from Worship — Vocal Music — Introduction of Foreign Customs, 248

Chapter XIII

The Government of Persia — Absolute Authority of the Shah — Officers of the Government — Army — Administration — Governors — Assessments — The Sar or Capitation Tax — The Mall — The Land Tax — Begaree — Revenue — Tenure of Land — Title Deeds — The Governor or Hoykim — Sadr Azam — Personal Liberty of the Ryot — The Three Departments of Government — The Oorf — The Sharah — Appeal — Relations oi the Two Courts — Mode of Trial — Punishments — Sanctuary — Where afforded — Price of Blood — Imprisonment for Debt — Bankrupts — Resistance to the Shah and Protection by Asylum — The Currency — Postal System — Bribery — Slaver)' — Laws Regulating Marriage — Rights of the Covenanted or Ahdah and of the Sekah — Part performed by the Mullah — Abject state of the Harij or Mutee Islam — Practice in Hamadan — Particular Grievances of the Mutee or Alien Subject — Rights of Foreigners determined by Treaty, ...... 274

Chapter XIV

Religion of the King and Ruling Races — The Athna Asherain — Review of the Rise of the Sect — Abu Beker and the three first Khalafahs — Ale and his Assassination — Moaveyah — The Dynasty of the Ammeyah — Rise of the Abasidees — Condition of the CONTENTS. XVI 292 3" House of Ale during the Reigns of the Khalafahs — Princes of the House of Buyah — Suljuks — Hassan Saba and the Assassins — Division of the Country — With the Ata Begs — Mogul Princes and their Toleration — The Twelve Imams proclaimed by Khoda band — Tamouridees — Rise of the House of Ismael or the Sufees — The King of the Sheahs — Supremacy of the Sect of the Athna Asherain — Distinguishing Tenet of the Sect — Doctrine as to the Mahde or the Riser — The Babees — Attempt to Assassinate the Shah — Death of the Conspirators — Ale Allahees — Curious Rites of — Sheikees and Mutasharahees — Sufees — Their Philosophical System — Relation of the Founder of the Sufee Dynasty to the Imams — Doctrinal Development of the Sect of the Twelve — Religious Literature of the Twelve — -The Sheah call to Prayer — ■ Divine Nature of Ale Claimed — Vicarious Death — The Sayeds — Superstitions of the People — The Most Holy Shrines — Cele brated Schools of the Sect of the Twelve — Principal Ceremonies — The Takeahs and the Tazeahs — Public Assemblies — Religious Orders — Mullahs — Imam Juma — Peesh Namaz — Wais — Mujta heed — Revenues — Dervishes — Privileges of the Sayeds — Hon orary Titles Conferred on Mullahs — Theological Schools — Their Support,

Chapter XV

Remnants of Captive Races, or the Non-Mohammedan Sects of Persia — The Guebers — Zardosht or Zoroaster — Earliest Condition of Zoroastrianism — Number of the Guebers — Chief Tenets — Towers of Silence — Public Worship — Future Punishment — Morals — Virtues — The Jews of Persia — Number — Religious Affinities — Corruption of Religion and Language — Disreputable Pursuits — The Armenians — Number — Origin — Skeptics — Antiquity of the Armenian Race — The Ecclesiastical Rule — Introduction of Christianity to the Country — Gregory — Ecclesiastical System — Separation from the Catholic Church — Invention of Letters and Translation of the Scriptures — Orders of the Clergy — Ordination and Marriage of the Clergy — Doctrinal System — Feast and Fast Days — Marriage — Armenian Colonies — The Captives of 1603 — Passage of the Aras — Settlements — Priests — Influence of Armenians — Distinguishing Features of the Race, . CONTENTS. XVII

Chapter XVI

Mission Establishments in Persia — Missions in 1870 — In 1884 — Question as to the Direction of Missionary Effort — Problem as to the Use of the Persian Language — Prejudices of the Sects — Testimony of Figures — First Schools — Public Worship — School for Jews — Circulation of Scriptures — Influence with the Persian Government — Medical Department — The Mission in Tabriz — The Mission in Hamadan — Interest among the Jews — Organization of the Eastern and the Western Persia Missions — Bible Agencies — Statistics of all the American Missions in Persia— The Chief Obstacles to Mission Work — The Religious Liberty of Non-Mohammedans declared — Restrictions Imposed by the Archbishop — Misrepresentations of the Missionaries — Ostracism of Protestants — Persecution of Jews in Hamadan — Similar Opposition in Oroomiah — The Law of Islam as to Apostasy — No Rights Secured by Treaty — The Unrestricted Sale of the Scriptures — Publication in Persian — Fanaticism — Unsettled Faith of the People — First Representative of United States Government to the Court of Persia — American Missionaries — Their Protection — Benefits accruing to from Influence of United States Minister, PERSIA: THE LAND OF THE IMAMS.

Chapter I

Routes to Persia — Constantinople — The Bosphorus — Pera — Galata — Scutari — Ancient Chalcedon — Quays — Ancient City — Antiquities — St. Sophia — Protestant Missions — Americans — Voyage to Trebizond — Black Sea — Trebizond — Antiquity — Capture by Goths — Fate of the City — Population of the Modern City — Ancient Structures — Commercial Relations of the City. There are several routes through Europe and West ern Asia to Persia. The most direct and available route is thought to be from Odessa by steamer to Batoum, near the southeastern extremity of the Black Sea ; thence by railroad to Tiflis. From this city there is a good post road to the river Aras, the boun dary between Russia and Persia. From this river, the journey to Tabriz may be made by caravan or by post-horses. There are no post wagons in Persia except on the road from Casveen to Tehran.

Travellers for Central and Eastern Persia who do ['• 2 not wish to follow the tedious journey of near four hundred miles from Tabriz to Tehran, should pass by the railway from Tiflis to Baku. The latter place is situated on the western shore of the Caspian Sea, and has a commodious harbour. The passage from Baku to Anzile may be made by the mail steamers of the Caucasus and Mercury Line in from twenty-four to thirty-six hours. Anzile is the chief port of the Persian coast. There is, however, no harbour here for other than very small ships. Large boats are unable to cross the bar which lies over the outlet of the bay called Mord Aub ; they therefore anchor in the road stead. In stormy weather the landing is effected with difficulty, if at all, in small flat-bottomed row boats. Freight and passengers are conveyed in these boats from Anzile across the Mord Aub.

The passage usually takes from three to five hours. From the Mord Aub there is a row up a small creek to Pere Bazaar. A dilapidated and filthy Custom House is the only building in the place. From Pere Bazaar to the city of Rasht, there is a fair road constructed through the jungle. The distance is about six miles. Rude carts or horses may be obtained for the transportation of passengers and luggage to Rasht. From this city to Casveen, the distance is about one hundred and twenty-five miles, and the journey is made either by caravan or by post. Wheeled vehicles cannot be driven over the passes of the Elburz mountains. Caravans may be obtained in Rasht for Casveen. At !■] ROUTES TO PERSIA. 3 the latter city, post wagons may be hired to Tehran. The distance is about one hundred miles. The route from Odessa to Anzile is not in all re spects the best.

That by way of Berlin, Warsaw, Czaritzin and Astrakan, is, in my judgment, better and quicker. At Astrakan passengers and baggage are transferred from the large steamers of the Volga to barges ; these are towed over the shallow water of the delta to the roadstead called Nine Foot. Here there is another transfer to the steamers of the Cau casus and Mercury Line. These steamers run to Baku, touching at Petrovsk and Derbend. From Baku, steamers of this line run to the eastern shore of the Caspian Sea, and southward to near Astrakan. Other steamers of this company run from Baku to Anzile, as above stated. A more circuitous route than either ofthe two routes described, is by way of Berlin, St. Petersburg, and Moscow to Nidjni Novgorod, and thence by steamer down the Volga River to Astrakan. A railway is now being completed on the northern side of the Caucasus mountains to Petrovsk.

When finished it will obviate the necessity of the voyage from Astrakan to Petrovsk, and will enable the traveller to Persia to avoid the Black Sea. It is possible to go from Marseilles by steamer, direct to Batoum. The voyage from London to Bushire, via the Isthmus of Suez and Persian Gulf is made in from four to six [■• 4 weeks' time. The journey from Bushire to Tehran by caravan requires thirty-five to forty days, and should not be undertaken in the late spring or summer months. The route from Damascus to Bagdad, and thence to Tehran may appear to be the most direct ; but it is impracticable, owing to the desert, the Arabs, and the great heat to be met with in the route west of Bagdad. This city is distant from Tehran about eighteen days' journey by caravan. The only seasons of the year favourable for travel in Northern Persia are the autumn and spring months.

Of the two seasons, the autumn is the more favourable. The destination of myself and party was Oroomiah, in Western Persia. We sailed from New York on the 9th of August, 1871. We went via Liverpool, London, Ostend, Vienna, Rustchuk and Varna, and arrived in Constantinople on the first of Sep tember. At that time the railway from Poti to Tiflis had not been completed. The most available route therefore for us, was from Trebizond through Eastern Turkey and Armenia. It was necessary that we should stop at Constan tinople, in order to make preparations for the journey by caravan from Trebizond. Although much has been written about Constantinople, yet some account of the city may be of interest to the reader of these pages. The chief feature of the situation of this famous city is the Bosphorus.

It flows from the Black Sea to the sea of Marmora, at the rate of about three miles an >.] CONSTANTINOPLE. 5 hour, and in a current fifty fathoms deep. The hills on either side are high, and are covered with the nu merous and varied structures of the city. Constanti nople, properly so called, forms a small part of that which is commonly known by that name. There are three principal divisions, known as Pera, Galata and Istamboul. The two first were suburbs. The last named represents in its Turkish form the ancient Constantinople. Pera occupies a hill, and the European legations and foreign residents are, for the most part, in it. Galata is situated on a peninsula between the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn. It con sists chiefly of bazaars and shops. The Golden Horn is the name of an arm of the Bosphorus, and is seven miles long ; it appears as a tributary flowing into the larger channel.

Istamboul is the Turkish name of the city south of the Golden Horn, and between that strait and the Sea of Marmora. It is believed that this name is a corruption of the phrase used by the Greeks of the suburbs, eis teen polin, meaning to the city. It came into use during the siege ofthe city by the Turks. On the eastern srfore of the Bosphorus, and opposite Galata, is the suburb Scutari, occupying the heights once commanded by Chrysopolis. A short distance south of this is the site of the ancient Chalcedon. The quays along the Bosphorus in front of Pera extend to Buyukdere, a distance of nine miles. The most ancient city constructed on the site now ['• 6 THE LAND OF THE IMAMS. occupied by Istamboul is said to have been founded by the ancient mariner Bazos in the year b.c. 656 or 657. From its founder the city received the name Byzantium.

It became the capital of a kingdom, which was taken by the Romans a.d. 73. In a rebellion against Rome it sustained a siege of three years' continuance, against the armies of the Emperor Sev erus, and surrendered only to famine a.d. 196. In the year a. d. 323, Byzantium was taken by Con stantine, and in the following year the rebuilding and enlargement under the order of the emperor began. Six or ten years later the work was completed, and the city was dedicated under' the name New Rome ; but the name City of Constantine given by the popu lace, either in' praise or derision, as denoting the par tiality of the emperor, survived the name formally bestowed. At the first, five of the seven hills of the peninsula were inclosed, the sixth and seventh were included later. The extreme length of the city was about three Roman miles, and the circumference nearly eleven miles.